Let me tell my experience with PS. I started with PS6 and 256MB ram, 1Ghz machine.
PS speed depends on the file size. I was working with 25Mb file. PS was very very slow and unsable. I updgraded to 512MB, the situation improved a lot. I have both PS7 & PS6. PS7 is hogs memory, becomes too slow after operating on few documents. PS6 is better in this regard, so I use PS6. Thanks Ramesh This depends --- Anand DHUPKAR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi Mark, > > I have been using PictureIt for my photoediting so > far. > Now I am thinking of moving to Photoshop 7. > What is the memory requirement for it ? My current > machine has Windows ME > with 256 MB of ram. > I am planning to have it upgraded to 512 - that is > the maximum that old > machine can accommodate. > Do I have to move to other machine for memory or 512 > MB would be enough ? > Other point is I am not professional photographer, > however, like to play > with these tools. > Would PhotoShop Elements be suffiient ? > > Thanks > > > >From: Mark Roberts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Subject: Re: OT:- Scanning for Dummies > >Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 08:23:47 -0500 > > > >"Peter Jordan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > >I've finally started to scan some of my 35mm > trannies, and quickly come > >to > > >the conclusion that I don't know what I'm doing. > > > > > >I can make scans and some of them look OK, but I > have 1001 questions to > >ask > > >around, how to prepare the trannies, the optimum > dpi, final image size, > >best > > >format to hold the scan files in etc. > > > >OK. What scanner are you using? (what resolution > ate you scanning at?) > >What image processing software are you using? > > > >For images I intend to print I always scan at full > resolution (that's > >3600 dpi for my Kodak RFS 3600) in 16-bit color (48 > bits total or 16 > >bits per color). This results in 90-92 megabyte > files. > > > >I have Photoshop 7 so I can do most of what I need > to do in 16-bit mode > >before saving to 8-bit for archiving and printing. > > > >First, use a blower of some kind to get your slide > as clean as humanly > >possible. > > > >16-bit mode with my scanner gives basically a RAW > file of what the CCD > >saw, so it's usually quite dark. My first few steps > in Photoshop use the > >Levels adjustment to get the image *roughly* where > I want it to be. > > > >My first adjustment is of just the bright > (right-hand) end of the > >histogram. Then I fine-tune the image rotation > (it's never quite square > >in the slide scanner) and then crop out the black > edges around the > >border (I make sure my original scan area is > slightly larger than the > >viewable portion of the slide). > > > >At this point I can be sure that whatever shows up > at the left-hand edge > >of the histogram (dark end of the scale) is > actually dark parts of the > >image, rather than the unexposed border (well, > slide mount, actually) so > >I use the levels adjustment again to set the > darkest point. Then I use > >levels a third time to set the mid point to > *approximately* where I want > >it. > > > >Save after every step :) > > > >The next step is removing dust specks with the > clone tool. If you (and > >your lab) have been careful this won't take much > time - I recommend > >doing your scans as soon as possible after having > your slides processed. > >View the image at 100% magnification and clone out > those little black > >spots. > > > >At this point you can decide how tricky you want to > get. Taking the > >simple route, you just make final tweaks with the > levels tool, convert > >to 8-bit, save and you're done. I recommend doing a > *little* sharpening > >at this point. I sharpen enough for a 12 x 18 > print; that's as big as my > >printer will do and pretty much as large as I care > to go with 35mm film > >anyway. Smaller print sizes will require more > sharpening and that can > >always be done later at the time of printing. > > > >Remember that with scanned film, sharpening is > always the > >*second-to-last* step before printing: After > sharpening you should do a > >second search for dust specks that you didn't catch > the first time > >around (the sharpening will inevitably bring out > some that weren't > >visible, or weren't objectionable, before). > > > >For more advanced techniques... > > > > >Is there a book or a site along the lines of > Scanning 101 that will help > >me > > >understand the basics. > > > >Photoshop for Photographers, the book that several > others have > >recommended. > > > >-- > >Mark Roberts > >Photography and writing > >www.robertstech.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Fretting that your Hotmail account may expire > because you forgot to sign in > enough? Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! > http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
