I wish people would stop recommending WD-40 as an all-purpose lubricant.
It is particularly UNSUITABLE for lubricating fine mechanisms with small
parts. It was originally designed as a waterproofing agent, hence, it's
name "WD-40" refers to the fact that it is a "water displacement" product,
this being the "40"th attempt. It was invented in 1953, before which time
plenty of other products were found quite suitable for lubrication purposes.
The long-term ingredient is a VISCOUS oil that is carried by a light, highly
volatile mineral oil carrier, similar to kerosene. The kerosene acts as a
penetrating agent which serves to carry the heavy oil into cracks and
crevices, the better to waterproof the treated object. So, yes, the
kerosene performs as a penetrating oil for about 5 minutes. Then the
kerosene evaporates, and you're left with the sticky oil worked into the
cracks and crannies. See the description and ingredients here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
This description has fit my experience exactly. After the carrier
evaporates, you've got a sticky, tacky mess left on the object you're trying
to "lubricate". Bad choice for small gears and pinions. I find that WD-40
is useful primarily for exactly what it was originally intended -
waterproofing. And it functions as a lubricant for heavier mechanisms,
although a proper oil or grease is far preferable.
If you want a penetrating oil, use pure kerosene. I use an automotive
product that consists of a very light volatile carrier with suspended tiny
graphite particles called "Part-Ease". It's particularly good for stuck
rusty parts. Don't know if that brand is still available - the can I'm
using is one I bought 30 years ago. Works good on exhaust manifold bolts on
cars and motorcycles. If you want a proper lubricant for fine mechanisms
like clocks and similar low-torque mechanisms, use a proper very light oil
such as can be purchased from clock repair parts suppliers. Proper light
clock oil does not dry up or get tacky. And it's available in various
viscosities for light, medium, and moderately heavy torque applications.
For most phonograph mechanisms, I find that ordinary 20 or 30 weight
automotive motor oil works quite well. For sliding surfaces such as the
reproducer bearing bar surfaces on many Edison cylinder machines, I use a
mixture of 30 weight oil and a PTFE (teflon) product such as "Slick 50".
The PTFE provides long lasting surface penetration into the metal for
superior reduction of sliding friction and stiction. Actually, I like this
oil-PTFE mixture so well that I now use if for all my medium-duty
lubrication needs. For very heavy torque applications such as the main bull
gears of phonographs, an ordinary automotive grease is appropriate. I use a
molybdenum-disulfide based grease ("molly dum-dum" for you motorcycle
wrenches out there) for most applications. It doesn't dry out, channel, and
get stiff like many lithium based greases.
Greg Bogantz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Angstman" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cleaning a phonograph. Wax removing.
Hi Gabriel,
For basic motor cleaning, remove the motor from the machine and find a
container large enough to fit it in. Fill the container with kerosene and
let it soak for several days. Use a toothbrush to remove sludge from gears
and small parts. Kerosene will not harm your motor and will actually
lubricate it. When you are through, you need to re-grease the spring, if
possible. Grease will continue to leak from the motor for awhile, since the
kerosene dissolves it, so you will want to put a rag under it after it is
re-installed. I also use WD 40 and spray lithium grease to re-lube the
motor. WD 40 also will remove crud from the wood cabinet or painted surfaces
without harming the finish - I use it on my BMW to remove tar, etc. It's a
great product and has many uses, like removing sticker glue, tar and grease.
It is also wonderful for re-energizing the paint on a horn. On black horns,
I touch up scratches with a Sharpie marker and/or liquid gun bluing (gun
bluing works great to "age" metal parts) and then clean the horn with WD 40.
On painted or flowered horns, it cleans and deepens the colors. Neither
kerosene or WD 40 will harm painted or nickel finished parts. WD 40 also
restores and cleans 78 records and Amberol cylinders. Some people will
disagree with that, but take a dirty, scratchy 78 record and try it - it
will improve the sound and make it look better - and absolutely NO damage to
the record - spray it on and wipe it off. I have used this method for over
30 years and have never had any damage to my records. It will not dissolve
78 rpm records or celluloid, but DO NOT use it on wax cylinders!!!
I can't help with the parts, but what do you mean by "click-fitting" system.
Are you talking about the latches on an early Edison?
Hope this helps,
Curt
From: [email protected]
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:46:07 +0100
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Phono-L] Cleaning a phonograph. Wax removing.
I have just begun to clean my old and dirty Edison Spring Motor and it is
a very heavy work. Do any of you know what kind of product I can use to
solve the wax and grease that is on all the surfaces of the phonograph? I
don't want to damage the black paint nor the chrome finish of parts.
Any ideas?
I also need some help for lacking parts. I need a speed regulating screw
knob and the lid lacks some metal parts to fit the phonograph base. If any
of you can send me photos of how must be the complete "click-fitting"
system, I think I can make an idea.
And, for the Bettinis, I need mica and metal foil diaphragms as well as
the recorder stylus that it lacks.
Thanks in advance.
Gabriel.
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