A revision to J Sand's reply (MY OPINION ONLY) Do everything up to the sanding part. Skip this part and clean with a 1 to 1 mix of Ammonia and water. Let dry completely and than use Krylon's "Fusion", it is new and is made for PLASTIC WITHOUT PRIMER!
Remember do not primer it. Spray your color and let dry for a 24 hours and reassemble. I have done this and its been 5 months and not one chip. I am completely satisfied with the Fusion paint. Check it out! I found it at True Value Hardware stores. maxtek P.S. If anyone wants to see a pic of my "PowerBook Krush" let me know and I will send it offlist. It is my version of a clamshell Tangerine iBook using a 540c. From: "J Sand" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Painting a Powerbook Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 08:48:59 -0600 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Unless someone knows why this should not be done? Disassemble the unit as much as possible so paint is not going to get into anywhere you don't want it. Make a list of what you took off and from where. Step #1, Step #2, etc. Label the parts the same way. This is important because the amount of time the unit is going to be disassembled makes it easy to forget where everything goes when it is time to put it all back together !!! Mask off all areas where you do not want paint to go, like the apple emblem per say. Use a fine grit sandpaper and LIGHTLY sand where you are wanting to paint. This will give the new paint more surface area to stick to. Use a wet rag to wash off the surface you are going to paint to remove all dust created from the above step. Use a tack rag if you have one, any model store will have them. Now use a mild solvent like rubbing alcohol to remove any oils that might be on the surface. Remember that your touching where the paint is going will leave an oil residue there and that is not good for best adhesion of the new paint. The plastic is now ready for painting. In a dust free area, basement, etc -- not outside as the wind blows, support the part with sticks or bent coat hangers to keep it off the paper, which you have put down so paint does not get all over your floor. I found out the hard way when I was a kid and my mom saw the floor after I painted a model - lol. Choice of paint is important--cheap paints will leave a poor finish! Get a can of spray enamel or acrylic primer, black if final color will be dark or white if final color will be light. Grey if not sure. Spray a primer coat on the part. Let dry completely and repeat. Make sure to give the paint time to dry! Remember--a few light coats always gives a better job than one of two heavy coats. It also has more of a tendency to run if sprayed on too thickly and definitely takes much more time to dry. Choose you color and get a couple of cans of gloss enamel or acrylic, just make sure the primer and main coat are the same kind of paint. ie: both are acrylic or enamel based. Repeat the same thing you did with the painting of the primer with the main color. Two or three light coats should be adequate. For added protection of the new paint, you could do a final coat of clear gloss. This process will take some time, but when you are finished, you will have a very professional looking custom color finish. Hope this helps. John PS: Bushes leave marks unless you use a flat paint, or are very good at using them. -- PowerBooks is sponsored by <http://lowendmac.com/> and... Small Dog Electronics http://www.smalldog.com | Enter To Win A | -- Canon PowerShot Digital Cameras start at $299 | Free iBook! | Support Low End Mac <http://lowendmac.com/lists/support.html> PowerBooks list info: <http://lowendmac.com/lists/powerbooks.shtml> --> AOL users, remove "mailto:"; Send list messages to: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To unsubscribe, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For digest mode, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subscription questions: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Archive: <http://www.mail-archive.com/powerbooks%40mail.maclaunch.com/> Using a Mac? Free email & more at Applelinks! http://www.applelinks.com
