As I am an old f**t I used Hammerite in the sixties and it was a fine
product however I would not use it now as it is brittle and next to useless.
A good old zinc based primer followed with ordinary gloss paint is pretty
good as recommended by Susan and Martin.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jin" <[email protected]>
To: "Quantum Owners Group" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 10:02 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: H4 RUST
second that, hammerite is poor, especially by todays standards
On Jul 17, 9:22 pm, "Susan and Martin Scott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
From experience of using Hammerite or Hammerite smooth I'd be very wary of
these products - I have found that because they are so brittle that even
the ambient temperature change can lead to microscopic cracks which let in
water. The evidence of this is the revealation of bad rust when the paint
cracks off in layers in a couple of years!!
I have successfully used zinc phosphate primer (just brush on) followed by
undercoat and either satin black top coat or even Dulux Weathshield
Gloss - again all brushed on (which of course gives a slightly thicker
finish than spraying) . This gives a soft-ish flexible and very durable
finish which is easy to apply and lasts for years. As an alternative a
polturethane single pack gloss will also give a good durable finish (after
the primer and undercoat of course).
Martin
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim T
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] H4 RUST
Hi. I've started a new post because the existing one was getting
cluttered.
On my H4 I noticed that there was surface rust on the rear chassis in the
engine bay. Lots of Kurust, Hammerite rust killer primer & Hammerite
smooth cured that. ( the front chassis is covered with a fine coating of
oil so no rust there!).
The chassis rails in the wet area seem sound, (tested with my mk 1 pointed
scewdriver ) but the coating is suspect. My usual response would be to
spray the cavity with Waxoil but have been told that this is not
compatible with fiberglass. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Plan B would
be to use old engine oil, taking precautions to collect & dispose of the
excess.Cheaper but effective, as used on older cars to prevent rust in the
distant past.
JimT
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