If they had galvanised the H4 chassis then it probably would have been fine.
Even if the powder coating had actually been powder coating it would still
have probably been ok.
But, the blank paint that was used sticks better to the fibreglass than it
does to the steel with the expected results.
The paint on the subframe on my 2+2 had rust coming through before it left
the garage during the build.
Even more annoying as when i ordered the kit i asked for the subframe not to
be bonded to the bulkhead so i could get it galvanised.
It came bonded on and i was recommended not to try removing it, done it on a
couple of other 2+2's since though.
Mine luckily is still non rusty after it's in situe sanding down and
respray, yes, using smooth hammerite.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: jin
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 4:01 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: H4 RUST
i agree with Jim
the 2+2 does seem to be the better bet if you can seal out the leaks,
and the sub frame should be viewed as a removable item for future
corrosion repairs, the H4 seems pretty bonkers in the respect of the
construction yet very clever at the same time, the problem being the
close proximity of the fibreglass to the steel, you can just slosh
waxoyl about like you would with a tin car, shame the 2 halves cant be
separated more readily
On Jul 18, 2:14 pm, "Jim Hearne" <[email protected]> wrote:
That was the reason i bought a 2+2, i was feed up with my metal cars going
rusty.
The 2+2 is fairly IMO safe as long as you sort out the pockets behind the
door hinges which can leak water into the sill area.
And don’t have any leaks around the petrol filler pipe either on the
outside or under that car.
The only bit that can rust is the subframe which can be removed,
sandblasted and galvanised if you wish.
The H4 is a different question because of the way the chassis rails come
through the body in various places.
The paint comes off the chassis with the fibreglass and the water gets to
the bare steel.
I asked original Quantum about separating the floor and body from the
chassis and they told me not to even attempt it.
The chassis bonded into the body halves in the moulds and without the
mould to keep things straight it will distort all over the place.
This wasn’t going to stop me trying it (with suitable jigging) but an
unfinished kit turned up with no rust as it had always been garaged.
I may well dissect the other H4 body from chassis just to see how it all
goes together as i’ve still got to do some extensive chassis mods to fit
the 4 wheel drive and the Mk5 Fiesta dash and aircon system.
I will be powder coating everything i can remove (i know there are people
on here who are against powder coating) and probably use rubber flat
roofing compound to paint the chassis i can’t remove.
Jim
From: The Blue Pig
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 1:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: H4 RUST
Hi, All,
This is an interesting and rather concerning thread!
One of my motivations for going Quantum was the fabled banishment from
critical areas of the insatiable tin worm, yet now it seems that the
little bugger finds his way in anyway. Worse still, once in his activities
are pretty much hidden from sight save the evidence of a little judicious
prodding through the drainage holes.
I'm tempted to err on the side of caution and apply sensible amounts of
anti-rust primer, followed by a flexible gloss paint (an approach
recommended by Spartan years ago for their Trekka chassis, with the use of
"Hammerite" discouraged for just the reasons described in this thread).
However, I've not got a clue as to how to get at the chassis rails, as
they're sandwiched away. What approaches have people used here? Can the
floor be unbonded for access then re-bonded? That sounds like it'd be a
big job . . .
Cheers!
Steve.
On Tuesday, 17 July 2012 17:47:06 UTC+1, Jim T wrote:
Hi. I've started a new post because the existing one was getting
cluttered.
On my H4 I noticed that there was surface rust on the rear chassis in
the engine bay. Lots of Kurust, Hammerite rust killer primer & Hammerite
smooth cured that. ( the front chassis is covered with a fine coating of
oil so no rust there!).
The chassis rails in the wet area seem sound, (tested with my mk 1
pointed scewdriver ) but the coating is suspect. My usual response would
be to spray the cavity with Waxoil but have been told that this is not
compatible with fiberglass. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Plan B would
be to use old engine oil, taking precautions to collect & dispose of the
excess.Cheaper but effective, as used on older cars to prevent rust in the
distant past.
JimT
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is"
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor
the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the
above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to
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