That was the reason i bought a 2+2, i was feed up with my metal cars going 
rusty.
The 2+2 is fairly IMO safe as long as you sort out the pockets behind the door 
hinges which can leak water into the sill area.
And don’t have any leaks around the petrol filler pipe either on the outside or 
under that car.
The only bit that can rust is the subframe which can be removed, sandblasted 
and galvanised if you wish.

The H4 is a different question because of the way the chassis rails come 
through the body in various places.
The paint comes off the chassis with the fibreglass and the water gets to the 
bare steel.

I asked original Quantum about separating the floor and body from the chassis 
and they told me not to even attempt it.
The chassis bonded into the body halves in the moulds and without the mould to 
keep things straight it will distort all over the place.
This wasn’t going to stop me trying it (with suitable jigging) but an 
unfinished kit turned up with no rust as it had always been garaged.
I may well dissect the other H4 body from chassis just to see how it all goes 
together as i’ve still got to do some extensive chassis mods to fit the 4 wheel 
drive and the Mk5 Fiesta dash and aircon system.

I will be powder coating everything i can remove (i know there are people on 
here who are against powder coating) and probably use rubber flat roofing 
compound to paint the chassis i can’t remove. 

Jim


From: The Blue Pig 
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 1:59 PM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: H4 RUST

Hi, All,

This is an interesting and rather concerning thread!

One of my motivations for going Quantum was the fabled banishment from critical 
areas of the insatiable tin worm, yet now it seems that the little bugger finds 
his way in anyway. Worse still, once in his activities are pretty much hidden 
from sight save the evidence of a little judicious prodding through the 
drainage holes.

I'm tempted to err on the side of caution and apply sensible amounts of 
anti-rust primer, followed by a flexible gloss paint (an approach recommended 
by Spartan years ago for their Trekka chassis, with the use of "Hammerite" 
discouraged for just the reasons described in this thread). 

However, I've not got a clue as to how to get at the chassis rails, as they're 
sandwiched away. What approaches have people used here? Can the floor be 
unbonded for access then re-bonded? That sounds like it'd be a big job . . .

Cheers!

Steve.

On Tuesday, 17 July 2012 17:47:06 UTC+1, Jim T wrote: 
  Hi. I've started a new post because the existing one was getting cluttered.
  On my H4  I noticed that there was surface rust  on the rear chassis in the 
engine bay. Lots of Kurust, Hammerite rust killer primer & Hammerite smooth 
cured that. ( the front chassis is covered with a fine coating of oil so no 
rust there!).
  The chassis rails in the wet area seem sound, (tested with my mk 1 pointed 
scewdriver ) but the coating is suspect. My usual response would be to spray 
the cavity with Waxoil but have been told that this is not compatible with 
fiberglass. Can anyone confirm or deny this?  Plan B would be to use old engine 
oil, taking precautions to collect & dispose of the excess.Cheaper but 
effective, as used on older cars to prevent rust in the distant past.
  JimT
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