Hi,
Was the "new" coil pack new or a s/h one ?
Coil pack failures are common.
But, the fact that wiggling the coil connector would fix it when there
was no spark means to me that there has to be an issue with either the
connector or a broken wire close to it.
On the XR2i CVH the rev counter is feed from the supply wire to one of
the 2 ignition coils in the pack.
The coil pack is driven by the EDIS module (should be on the bulkhead
somewhere) which is turn gets signals from the main ecu and the crank
sensor.
When you say you changed the ecu do you mean the main silver one or the
EDIS module ?
The fact the rev counter is also playing up makes me think it is either
the coil connector or less likely the EDIS module or it's connector.
You need less power to make a spark at low idle speeds than you do under
power or higher RPM's.
It could be the common centre power ignition power connection on the
coil pack, next time it dies put a meter between it and earth (you can
push a pointed meter probe past the rubber seal in the back of the
connector) and measure the voltage, it should be around 12-13 volts
You can also try bending the wire around to see if the voltage dips down
due to a break.
If it was one of the 2 coil wires the engine would still run but only on
2 cylinders and you'd have a spark on 2 cylinders.
You can tweak the pair of contacts in each hole of the plug towards each
other with a small jewellers screwdriver to improve there contact.
Jim
On 24/03/2014 17:57, steve c wrote:
Hi All
Any thoughts, suggestions or help on the following issue with a 1.6i
mk3 XR2i engine in my son's H4. I'll go through the issues as they've
come up.
The car would occasionally die, and my son had also reported that it
kangaroo'ed - the rev's "randomly rising and falling (seemed to happen
if the car was hot, as it was always OK when I got to it in my role as IR)
On any occasion it was dead, I found there was no spark, and simply
wiggling the connector on the solid state coil pack would seem to
bring it to life.
I took the plug and a length of cable off the car and inspected and
cleaned the plug - which all seemed ok - when the problem persisted I
bought a new coil pack. when I swopped this, I had a problem with the
car, it ran OK in neutral, but when trying to get off the drive, up
hill, it sputtered,back fired and died. I swopped the coil packs back,
and checked they were exactly the same, which they were. I became
convinced having had the plug leads on and off the coil pack a number
of times, that I'd messed the firing order up. I traced the leads and
labelled them, put them back with the new coil pack and all was
seemingly OK ( the car has previously had new plugs and plug leads as
part of a "service")
The problems with car dying and reported kangarooing continued. I've
checked all the breather pipes as suggested by Haynes, and also
changed the fuel filter, as it was suggested to possibly be a fuel
problem (despite the strange wiggle the connector fix for no spark)
one other slightly strange thing occurred during the issues, the rev
counter packed up. I had a look at the wiring diagram and couldn't
figure it out, clearly wasn't a feed from the distributor!!
I used the car for a couple of journeys, and experienced the
Australian phenomena. It initially seemed as if the car was in the
wrong gear, and slipping the clutch and upping the revs got through
it, but later I had the full kangarooing and random revs, followed by
the engine dying. A quick check under the bonnet when it wouldn't
restart and a wiggle of the coil connector and away we went.
I was working away and didn't have the time to do any more work on the
car until recently. I checked everything over (connectors etc) and
tried to get a replacement coli lead with wires attached, but my local
ford breakers have shut down, and my inquiries have so far proved
fruitless.
I tried the car out late last week, having finished working away - it
wouldn't start, but the jiggle trick sorted it. I now noticed the rev
counter was working again, but seemed to be showing incorrect readings
(c 3000 revs for a fast tick over). The car seemed OK, but trying to
get it off the drive revealed the sputter,back fire and die, problem
had returned. I convinced myself that the nature of the issues,
suggested that the ECU must be at fault. Haynes suggests that if any
of the various sensors have issues the engine is likely to run but not
at optimum, so I found one on E bay and bought it. It arrived today,
and chnaged it out - and I've got exactly the same problems with the
car - rev counter works but reads high, and the engine fails under load.
oh for the days or carburetors and points
StevieCee
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