Re: [RBW] Surly LHT vs vintage MTB

[James Warren]

Great info from Tim! One minor detail I'll add regarding the Bridgestone MB's:

 

From '91 to '94 and I believe1990 as well, all Bridgestones had the same frame geometry. The MB-6 had the same geometry as the MB-1 or zip. The differences from high end to low end MB's were in the brands and weights of the tubing and in the components. Any Bridgestone MB from '90 through '93 is an excellent frameset. (In '94, some came with a suspension fork, so you got an excellent frame but maybe not so great a fork.) The MB-4's were especially good in '90 through '93, because they were mostly lugged and/or made with Ritchey tubes, but they were very affordable.

 

Funny sidenote: In the '92 or '93 catalog, the MB-3 is described as a "no-nonsense" bike. Check out the corresponding language in the '94 catalog, 4th word of the bike's description:

 

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1994/pages/33.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Gavin
Sent: Jan 9, 2015 8:44 AM
To: "rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com"
Subject: Re: [RBW] Surly LHT vs vintage MTB

A vintage MTB is a gamble, it may be a dud or it may be a jackpot.

Pros:
*Good steel* -- Back when steel was king, the top-end bikes had fantastic
tubing, as good as anything today. (FYI, surface rust and scratches can be
blasted out. Blast and powder coat costs ~$200).
For a lively ride, get a race-intended model (top-end Stumpjumpers, MB-1 or
MB-0, Paramount PDG 70/90, Trek 9xx series, etc). HT Tange Prestige is
primo.
For a stouter ride (like the LHT), get a mid-range model (lower-end
Stumpys, Rockhopper, lower MBs, Trek 8xx series, and similar).
*Easy to mount racks* -- most steel MTBs have tons of eyelets (except some
of the raciest models), and the Nitto M12 is perfect for canti forks.

Cons:
*High BB* -- you'll sit taller on the bike. The handling will suffer
compared to a lower BB like an LHT or Riv. In my experience, converting
the vintage MTB to drop bars helps a lot to move your weight lower, but
you'll still notice the high BB.
*Weird geo* -- Vintage MTBs often have long top tubes and sometimes weird
angles.
The earlier you go (early to mid 80s), the bikes are klunker-inspired and
may suck for anything but casual use. Unfortunately, most lugged MTBs are
klunkers. The lugged era ended around the late 80s, just when they were
improving the geometry.
Late 80s to early 90s are a better bet, from NORBA geometry up to (but not
including) front suspension bikes. Bridgestones seem to have the best geo
(thanks, Grant), but the good MBs are overpriced unicorns now. Did I
mention that vintage MTBs are a gamble?

Do you want a heavily loaded tourer, and are OK with a stout, less lively
frame? If so, the LHT is hard to beat, since it's ready to go for loaded
touring. Setting up a vintage MTB may involve some headaches and
workarounds.

If you get lucky (like I did), you may find a vintage MTB with very high
end tubing for little coin. My KOM is heat treated Tange prestige, my
size, and I got it for $75. With my weight (220#), the frame feels lighter
and more lively than most mid-range vintage MTBs.

Keep an eye out for top-end vintage frames. But it may take a while to
score a great one in your size for a nice price.

There are some primo alternatives between the price of the LHT and a Riv,
especially if you have the components and are just looking for a frame.
For example, you can get a wonderful Gunnar frame and fork for the price of
the LHT (Gunnars are handbuilt in Waterford, WI, and are almost the same as
a Waterford but TIG welded). Search the list for other reasonably priced
builders.



On Fri, Jan 9, 2015 at 9:44 AM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Anyone have any thoughts on positives or negatives associated with
> choosing a 26" LHT versus a 90's MTB, like a Stumpjumper or Rockhopper?
>
> I'm familiar with the geometry differences between the two and I will be
> using modern components (except for stem if I go vintage) so I'm interested
> in things like ride quality, the impact of the tubing used in each, etc....
>
> This will be an all-rounder bike that is primarily ridden on pavement with
> the option to ride on packed dirt, gravel and even double track. I have no
> interest in single-track or "mountain biking" as it currently exists.
>
> Riv content is that my bike project is directly inspired by the 56cm
> Atlantis but I don't have the finances to go that route. I also know there
> is a vast amount of experience with this type of bike here.
>
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