Yes Chrys, that¹s pretty much how it works. You just secure the roadwheels at their lowest postion so even when the tracks are off the wheels stay in position when the tank is lifted.
Paul, Will try to answer your questions, I should really expand on my answers but this email would become rather large. Length as long as possible, The length of my springs are about 8 inches. Diameter have 2 sizes, roadwheels 1,5 and 6 are 5mm and roadwheels 2,3 and 4 are 4.5mm. Note I wanted to use only 4.5mm but ran out of springs and couldn¹t get any more at that size but think it worked out for the better. Slightly thicker springs on the ends is a good idea. That¹s for about 40 50 kilos, maybe more. For comparison my M41 weighs 18 kilos and has 10 springs with a diameter of 3mm at a length of 6 inches. Composition all I know is it should be spring steel, you can play with heating and hardening if you like but I just use it as is. Selecting torsion rods is not an exact science (but what is?) so the key things I have found are; You can not add more tension but you can reduce it so start with more than you need. Securing the springs to the hull like an Abrams allows you to have longer springs which means you can have thicker springs which is good but securing to the hull means your roadwheels have a bigger offset than secured to the floor so consider the length affects the diameter. The biggest issue to overcome with this system is simply securing the ends of the rods, they are usually splined in tanks so forget that idea, there is a reason that the ends of the rods go into anchors, that is the potential failure point and anchor is a good word for them. George --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
