GGGGGRRREEAAAT..... That figures. Get rid of the phosphates and then deal
with low alk. Well, I am also using SeaChems reefbuffer, so maybe they work
together okay. Probably not, but I think I will be optimistic today. I am
only planning on using the phosgaurd for the 4 day duration (hopefully) that
they have on the instructions, so if I am lucky, it wont bring it down too
much in that time.
Thanks for the heads up...
Shane
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom DeBenedictis [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:41 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Help with SPS
Just so you know I had a problem keeping up my Alk and someone asked
me if I
was using Phosguard. I was and they said that Seachem had admitted
that it
has an adverse reaction to Alk. It was 4 years ago so I don't
remember who
but coincedently after I stopped using it I was able to slowly raise
my alk.
JME
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane Clays" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 11:43 AM
Subject: RE: Help with SPS
> Thought you all might be interested in my over the weekend
findings.
Tested
> for Phosphate. Found the levels to be at about .5 to .7. Now, this
is on a
> Red Sea test kit, so I have no idea exactly how accurate it is,
but even
so,
> these levels are high, as I suspected.
>
> As I had mentioned in previous emails, I have never treated for
phosphate.
> Well, I am treating now. I am using Sea Chem Phosgard (I think its
called)
> at full recommended dosage. Will test again in 4 days and see if
it comes
> down.
>
> Also, my other 55k bulb and IceCap ballast are on their way to
IceCap to
be
> tuned. Hopefully I will get these back by end of next week. I have
the
> replacement 50/50s on their way and will replace those as soon as
the new
> ones get in. We will see what kind of difference this makes as
well.
Beyond
> that, I moved one of the MHs over a bit from the middle towards
the side
so
> now the green acro and hydnophora are not getting quite as much
light.
>
> Not sure if high phosphates can cause loss of colors in coral. I
know it
> inhibits growth, so hopefully the phosphate removal will at least
solve
that
> mystery.
>
> That's it....
>
> Shane C.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 10:24 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Help with SPS
>
> Hi, Shane. You should test for PO4 and run a PO4 'sponge' if over
> 0.03ppm.
> Also, you mentioned carbon 24/7. I did it like this 15 years ago
but
> rarely
> run carbon these days. If I use it, I only use it for a few days
> then
> discard. You will find many arguements for and against carbon.
>
> In regards to Hydno....I have a parent colony about 8 inches
across
> from side
> to side and about 6 inches high depending on how often I get cuts
> from it. It
> does very well in an 80 gallon display tank about 20 inches under
> 175watt
> 10KK Germans and 2 48' 03 Actinics. Actinics come on at 0900, off
at
> 2115. MH
> on at 1030, off at 1830. Also in this tank is a very colorful
Acro.
> Millepora
> with brilliant purple coralites. It was a frag from a trade 5
months
> ago. It
> mounted on LR about 4 inches under the water line. It has
phenomenal
> growth
> and is now about ready to cut from. Also is a parent colony of
brown
> on blue
> Montipora (high in the tank also). It grows very well and has
> supplied
> numerous frags. Also is a green Montipora that requires very
little
> light and
> is kept low in this tank. And more...
>
> Prop tanks are somewhat different. I could care less about
> asthetics. I use
> 400watt 10KK Ushio by itself over 45 gallon breeders for SPS frags
> and some
> high light demanding LPS. On softies prop tanks I use 4 48" VHO
1/2
> blue 1/2
> 50/50. These tanks look fantastic and work great for buttons,
> Xenias, star
> polyps, and coralline growth on future LR for frag mounting. SPS
> (except
> green Montipora/Stylo) and clams (except Deresa and Squamosa)
> generally do
> not thrive under these conditions. They do very well under 10KK
> Ushio alone,
> however. I have one remaining Iwasaki 6500K bulb that is near
death.
> I
> despise it and it is soon to be tossed in the garbage where it
> belongs. I
> have one 10KK+ Blueline bulb that burns very blue like a 12KK
> Starburst. This
> bulb washes color for viewing but SPS seem to do well under it. I
> might use
> more of these if they last longer than 6 months (longer life being
> the only
> real benefit of 6500K bulbs). Ushio 10KK 400 watt bulbs go at
least
> a year.
> They are very crisp white and by far my favorite prop bulb. I have
> new
> electronic ballasts on a couple of tanks and these are fantastic.
No
> heat, no
> noise. Bulbs should last longer on these ballast and my electric
> bill should
> be lower. I will probably replace all tar MH ballasts with
> electronic ones if
> the tar ones would ever die (PFO and Hamilton....can't kill them)
> VHO all IC.
>
> Usual water parameters on prop systems are Ca+ >450, dKH >12, pH
> 8.0-8.35,
> Nitrate < 2ppm, Phosphate <0.03, Mg+ >1400, NSW Iodide and Sr. I
do
> NO water
> changes and use DI then RO for top off and replacement water. I
use
> Kent on
> one system, IO on one, and Reef Crystals (IO) on another. I like
> Kent but
> find it harder to 'tweak" than IO. IO is cheaper and easier to
play
> with plus
> it mixes really fast.
> I use Super Calc Gold reactor media on one system but Caribe Sea
> A.R.M. on
> two other CRs ....A.R.M. is the best I've found so far and what
I'll
> use in
> the future. Filtration is DSB/LR (all), and high efficiency
skimming
> (all)
> 24/7. Aside from heavy feeding at least 3 times a week and rare
> Iodine and
> Strontium addtions there are no additives used. I am considering
> adding
> either clam filtration or more refugiums. I have not had good
> success with
> mud/mangrove. I have had very good reduction of Nitrate and
> Phosphate with
> DSB refugiums with macralgaes. For algae controll i use Margarite
> snails,
> black foot Trochus snails, assorted crabs, Nassarius snails, Queen
> Conch
> (trying to breed), and Strombus snails (that we raise). Temps run
> from 76 to
> 85. I do not run chillers. Higher temps seem to work fine but if
you
> go over
> 82 watch things carefully. It is true that "bad shit happens" when
> temps get
> too high for too long.... Well this is everything I know. I need
to
> get back
> to my day job now (not coral farming).....Later!
> ________________________________________
>
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