An alternative "audio card" is M-Audio's Transit USB - a fag packet sized box that sits happily outside your computer. It does 96/24 if that's your scene as well.
I'd support those who say do a whole side at a time. If you're going to normalise you need the whole range of values to avoid destroying the dynamic range of the recording. For classical discs you may need to do both sides in one hit and normalise the whole lot. -- morris_minor SB3 > Sonifex RB DAC1 > Musical Fidelity X10v3 > Sudgen Headmaster > Sennheiser HD 595 Michell Gyrodec SE DC [Tecnoarm, Goldring 1042] > Graham Slee Era V Gold > [Sugden Headmaster] . . . Pioneer DV565 universal player, Panasonic DVR, Yamaha DSPAX750SE, Kef Cresta 30 (fronts), Tannoy Profile 633 (rears) Mac Mini [1.83GHz, 2Gb], Iomega Minimax 500Gb, LaCie Ethernet BigDisk 1TB, D-Link DSL604+, M-Audio Transit USB, Audiolab 8000A, Monitor Audio M2s Crappy old PC - 1GHz Athlon ------------------------------------------------------------------------ morris_minor's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=13950 View this thread: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=40894 _______________________________________________ ripping mailing list [email protected] http://lists.slimdevices.com/lists/listinfo/ripping
