I take large sheets of corrugated cardboard (large box sides) laid flat. Then  
put long strips of double sided 1 inch masking tape in rows.  I then use an 
Xacto knife to cut the cover  paper on the tape down the middle of each strip 
of tape.  The strips should not be too close to each other

I then pull the 1/2 cover strip off the tape.

When the parts for a laser cut kit are separated from the laser sheet you put 
the parts  (JUST A SMALL CORNER OF EACH PART TOUCHING THE BARE ADHESIVE)  on 
the board.  Group the parts according to where they relate on the building.

THEN SPRAY THE WOOD PARTS WITH A DULL COAT EURETHANE SPRAY.   Let it sit for 2 
days.  Then turn each part over THEN SPRAY THE REVERSE SIDE WITH THE EURETHANE 
SPRAY.   Then let it sit for at least 2 days.

Use the same technique for the parts according to the color you plan to use.   
The other half of the adhesive tape now works for  the painting.

It makes no difference what kind of paint  you use.  The eurethane spray seals 
the wood .Especialy the edges.   Nothing will ever warp.

You can just spray the laser sheets with euretane if you wish.  

I have used this on 3  BTS  East Broad top models.  The adhesive tape prevents 
blowing all the parts across the room.

John Armstrong,  Kirtland Ohio
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Thorinn Marty 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 3:54 PM
  Subject: {S-Scale List} Sealing laser cut buildings


    
  Good afternoon Gentlemen and (if we should be so lucky) Ladies:

  I am ready to start assembly of a laser cut building. I am building GCLaser's 
  2309 S-Scale Country Market which I call a Fruit Stand. This kit has four 
  sheets of parts. I like to paint the pieces while still in the sheets. I do 
  edges and touch-up once assembled. I took the raw sheets and started painting 
  the Antique White, Forest Green, and Orange. Once dry, I flipped them over 
and 
  did the other side. I noted two issues. First, the wood warped when it got 
wet 
  as I only painted one side at a time. Second, the black laser edges did not 
  want to cover with both Antique White and Orange. (Dark Forest Green was 
fine.)

  When I did a laser cut kit as a clinic at the NMRA 2010 National, they took 
the 
  laser cut sheets and sprayed them with something clear and toxic. It sealed 
the 
  wood for painting. The black laser edges did not bleed through with the same 
  Antique White. Does anyone have a guess what was used? Dullcote?

  Thank you,
  Thorin

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