Just to keep this coupler debate going, I have posted some photos of the 
Walther's and Kadee coupler comparisons for those who can't seem to afford the 
cost of a pair to inspect them for themselves. Disclaimer! Walthers couplers 
are NOT plastic; otherwise I wouldn't use them

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/photos/album/1775582643/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=21&count=20&dir=asc

boB Nicholson (whose modeling efforts hve been lethargic, lately)


--- In [email protected], "Ed" <Loizeaux@...> wrote:
>
> Gentlemen....Here is a message from way back in December 2011.  Ed L.
> 
> --- In [email protected], "Edward Loizeaux" <Loizeaux@> wrote:
> >
> > As I see it...
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 1.  KD#802 has a wider gathering range, fits most recent brass imports,
> > costs what it costs, has too much sprung slack action for some, and is a tad
> > oversized for S.  Many folks dislike the herky-jerky motion that is common
> > with these couplers.  One fellow solved that
> > problem by inserting a small cylindrical object into the middle of the
> > centering spring which greatly restricts the slack action he found
> > objectionable.  The small cylindrical object is from a Kadee coupler set
> > (#4?) and is available as a separate piece (I think).  Another solution 
> > popularized by Dick Karnes is to use a knuckle spring as a replacement for 
> > the centering spring. The weaker knuckle spring becomes fully compressed 
> > under load and the slack action disappears. The KD#802 is too
> > large to fit the popular ACE adaptors which were created long before the
> > #802 coupler was born.  This is probably the most commonly used coupler in S
> > scale today.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 2.  KD#5 (and #3, the RTR version) is the HO standard and works very well if
> > you install them correctly and take care to eliminate the side slop between
> > axles and sideframes.  Many S models have excessive side slop which enables
> > the couplers to be off center way too much for reliable coupling.  Side 
> > slop can be eliminated
> > with small washers on the axle ends.  These couplers fit the ACE AF
> > adaptors, older wooden kits, and nearly all narrow gauge models.  The 
> > all-metal KD#5
> > easily permits exact 36" spacing between cars and comes with all sorts of
> > variations such as long shank, short shank, upper mount knuckles, lower
> > mounted knuckles, different size/shaped draft gear boxes, etc.  One of the
> > many variations can be made to work with darn near any S model ever made.  I
> > have some in the front pilots of brass steam engines.  These couplers are
> > less expensive than the Kadee S couplers and mate with them well.   This
> > used to be the most commonly used coupler in S scale in yesteryear and is
> > still liked and used by many.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 3. Modified KD#5 (longer glad hand) couplers have a problem with the glad
> > hand working loose from the knuckle casting  itself.   It swivels when it
> > shouldn't and then the magnetic uncoupling system does not work well since
> > the glad hand swings outward, but the knuckle does not.  UNmodified Kadee's
> > do not have this problem.  Modified KD#5 couplers are no longer made
> > commercially.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 4.  Walther's new plastic HO couplers are a tad larger than KD#5 and work 
> > well when new.  One
> > noticeable difference, however, is that the Walther's coupler has more slack
> > action between closed/coupled knuckles than does the Kadee product.  While
> > the Walter's couplers are not springy like the KD#802s, the large slack
> > action between closed knuckles creates a similar effect.  One fellow claims 
> > the trip pin tends to work loose from the plastic knuckle casting after a 
> > while.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 5.  American Models makes a reasonable appearing dummy plastic coupler that 
> > is good
> > for unit trains and the like.  I use them between A and B diesel units for
> > positive coupling unaffected by magnets and the like.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 6.  SHS makes a Kadee-compatible coupler that is about the same size as the
> > KD#802.  It was created to enable close coupling between diesel units, but
> > can be used on freight and passenger cars.  Works well as far as I know.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Hope all this helps.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Cheers..Ed L.
>




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