Gentlemen....Here is a message from way back in December 2011.  Ed L.

--- In [email protected], "Edward Loizeaux" <Loizeaux@...> wrote:
>
> As I see it...
> 
>  
> 
> 1.  KD#802 has a wider gathering range, fits most recent brass imports,
> costs what it costs, has too much sprung slack action for some, and is a tad
> oversized for S.  Many folks dislike the herky-jerky motion that is common
> with these couplers.  One fellow solved that
> problem by inserting a small cylindrical object into the middle of the
> centering spring which greatly restricts the slack action he found
> objectionable.  The small cylindrical object is from a Kadee coupler set
> (#4?) and is available as a separate piece (I think).  Another solution 
> popularized by Dick Karnes is to use a knuckle spring as a replacement for 
> the centering spring. The weaker knuckle spring becomes fully compressed 
> under load and the slack action disappears. The KD#802 is too
> large to fit the popular ACE adaptors which were created long before the
> #802 coupler was born.  This is probably the most commonly used coupler in S
> scale today.
> 
>  
> 
> 2.  KD#5 (and #3, the RTR version) is the HO standard and works very well if
> you install them correctly and take care to eliminate the side slop between
> axles and sideframes.  Many S models have excessive side slop which enables
> the couplers to be off center way too much for reliable coupling.  Side slop 
> can be eliminated
> with small washers on the axle ends.  These couplers fit the ACE AF
> adaptors, older wooden kits, and nearly all narrow gauge models.  The 
> all-metal KD#5
> easily permits exact 36" spacing between cars and comes with all sorts of
> variations such as long shank, short shank, upper mount knuckles, lower
> mounted knuckles, different size/shaped draft gear boxes, etc.  One of the
> many variations can be made to work with darn near any S model ever made.  I
> have some in the front pilots of brass steam engines.  These couplers are
> less expensive than the Kadee S couplers and mate with them well.   This
> used to be the most commonly used coupler in S scale in yesteryear and is
> still liked and used by many.
> 
>  
> 
> 3. Modified KD#5 (longer glad hand) couplers have a problem with the glad
> hand working loose from the knuckle casting  itself.   It swivels when it
> shouldn't and then the magnetic uncoupling system does not work well since
> the glad hand swings outward, but the knuckle does not.  UNmodified Kadee's
> do not have this problem.  Modified KD#5 couplers are no longer made
> commercially.
> 
>  
> 
> 4.  Walther's new plastic HO couplers are a tad larger than KD#5 and work 
> well when new.  One
> noticeable difference, however, is that the Walther's coupler has more slack
> action between closed/coupled knuckles than does the Kadee product.  While
> the Walter's couplers are not springy like the KD#802s, the large slack
> action between closed knuckles creates a similar effect.  One fellow claims 
> the trip pin tends to work loose from the plastic knuckle casting after a 
> while.
> 
>  
> 
> 5.  American Models makes a reasonable appearing dummy plastic coupler that 
> is good
> for unit trains and the like.  I use them between A and B diesel units for
> positive coupling unaffected by magnets and the like.
> 
>  
> 
> 6.  SHS makes a Kadee-compatible coupler that is about the same size as the
> KD#802.  It was created to enable close coupling between diesel units, but
> can be used on freight and passenger cars.  Works well as far as I know.
> 
>  
> 
> Hope all this helps.
> 
>  
> 
> Cheers..Ed L.




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