I agree that this is getting to be a bit monotonous... but what really gets old
for me is having to tell the same people the same things over and over and they
still don't get it or remember it. So with that in mind, I don't really mind
rehashing it a bit more from time to time... especially when you believe and
put a lot of stock into the two following quotes :
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it." - George
Santayana
"Those that fail to learn from history, are doomed to repeat it" - Winston
Churchill
John Degnan
[email protected]
[email protected]
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Jackson
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 12:18 PM
Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: The Great Coupler Debate.....
I submit that we make this a "sticky" post (as many blogs do), so that we
avoid redundant discussions on perennial topics such as this in the future.
That way, those new to S Scale could read them, and we can go on to more
promising topics that haven't been discussed before.
--- In [email protected], "Ed" <Loizeaux@...> wrote:
>
> Gentlemen....Here is a message from way back in December 2011. Ed L.
>
> --- In [email protected], "Edward Loizeaux" <Loizeaux@> wrote:
> >
> > As I see it...
> >
> >
> >
> > 1. KD#802 has a wider gathering range, fits most recent brass imports,
> > costs what it costs, has too much sprung slack action for some, and is a
tad
> > oversized for S. Many folks dislike the herky-jerky motion that is common
> > with these couplers. One fellow solved that
> > problem by inserting a small cylindrical object into the middle of the
> > centering spring which greatly restricts the slack action he found
> > objectionable. The small cylindrical object is from a Kadee coupler set
> > (#4?) and is available as a separate piece (I think). Another solution
popularized by Dick Karnes is to use a knuckle spring as a replacement for the
centering spring. The weaker knuckle spring becomes fully compressed under load
and the slack action disappears. The KD#802 is too
> > large to fit the popular ACE adaptors which were created long before the
> > #802 coupler was born. This is probably the most commonly used coupler
in S
> > scale today.
> >
> >
> >
> > 2. KD#5 (and #3, the RTR version) is the HO standard and works very well
if
> > you install them correctly and take care to eliminate the side slop
between
> > axles and sideframes. Many S models have excessive side slop which
enables
> > the couplers to be off center way too much for reliable coupling. Side
slop can be eliminated
> > with small washers on the axle ends. These couplers fit the ACE AF
> > adaptors, older wooden kits, and nearly all narrow gauge models. The
all-metal KD#5
> > easily permits exact 36" spacing between cars and comes with all sorts of
> > variations such as long shank, short shank, upper mount knuckles, lower
> > mounted knuckles, different size/shaped draft gear boxes, etc. One of the
> > many variations can be made to work with darn near any S model ever made.
I
> > have some in the front pilots of brass steam engines. These couplers are
> > less expensive than the Kadee S couplers and mate with them well. This
> > used to be the most commonly used coupler in S scale in yesteryear and is
> > still liked and used by many.
> >
> >
> >
> > 3. Modified KD#5 (longer glad hand) couplers have a problem with the glad
> > hand working loose from the knuckle casting itself. It swivels when it
> > shouldn't and then the magnetic uncoupling system does not work well since
> > the glad hand swings outward, but the knuckle does not. UNmodified
Kadee's
> > do not have this problem. Modified KD#5 couplers are no longer made
> > commercially.
> >
> >
> >
> > 4. Walther's new plastic HO couplers are a tad larger than KD#5 and work
well when new. One
> > noticeable difference, however, is that the Walther's coupler has more
slack
> > action between closed/coupled knuckles than does the Kadee product. While
> > the Walter's couplers are not springy like the KD#802s, the large slack
> > action between closed knuckles creates a similar effect. One fellow
claims the trip pin tends to work loose from the plastic knuckle casting after
a while.
> >
> >
> >
> > 5. American Models makes a reasonable appearing dummy plastic coupler
that is good
> > for unit trains and the like. I use them between A and B diesel units for
> > positive coupling unaffected by magnets and the like.
> >
> >
> >
> > 6. SHS makes a Kadee-compatible coupler that is about the same size as
the
> > KD#802. It was created to enable close coupling between diesel units, but
> > can be used on freight and passenger cars. Works well as far as I know.
> >
> >
> >
> > Hope all this helps.
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers..Ed L.
>
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