Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Has anyone used a PC microphone

2013-03-25 Thread Rich Lentz
Thanks for all of the help. I have my answer.

 

Rich

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[Elecraft] ESD mat measurements

2008-12-19 Thread Rich Lentz (KE0X)
You may get better - different - results if you use an oscilloscope to
measure this voltage peak. The Simpson has ?dampening? qualities and will
NOT show the true peak voltage/current.

 

Also, have you taken into account any internal resistance of the Simpson? As
I recall that was a 20,000 ohms per volt (a 50 uA movement) meter - Great at
the time, but worthless today for anything other than house/auto wiring -
which also implies that there is a shunt dropping the meter movement down
from 50 to 60 ( which model has a range of 60??? I have seen ones with
50 and 100 uA but not 60) and thus there is resistance added to your test
circuit. These small errors are acting like a furculum and greatly skewing
your results.

 

Rich,

KE0X

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[Elecraft] K3 Undescribed socket.

2008-02-27 Thread Rich Lentz (KE0X)
What is the socket just below the B VFO dial on the bottom of the front
panel for?

 

Also, the RS232 jack has wires for RTS and DTR. Are these going to (can
they) be enabled to indicate Squelch, etc.?

 

Rich

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RE: [Elecraft] K2# 1068 stuck in transmit mode - SOLVED! KIO2 still aproblem

2006-04-22 Thread Rich Lentz
 
John:

If you have an old K2 main MCU try it and see if it fixes your KIO2 problem
before you order parts.  My K2 was subject to lightning (not as direct hit
but in the neighbors yard) and the only symptom was that the KIO2 would not
work. After determining the input port on the PC was shot (tried other
serial device) thought it was fixed. Then spent many hours trouble shooting
and replacing the KIO2.  Once it was fixed I determined the pin the KIO2
interfaces with on the KIO2 was internally open - thus needed a new MCU.
Three things broke, two in K2 and one in the PC.  Strange that everything in
the PC worked except the serial port.  And everything in the AK2 worked
except the KIO2.

Rich 



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RE: [Elecraft] Question regarding paddle wiring

2006-04-02 Thread Rich Lentz
The Ten-Tec and Icom equipment I own use this same standard

Rich,
KE0X

.  I don't know if this is a standard but its what the K2 calls 'normal'

Thanks
Tom WB2QDG
K2 1103




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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-04-02 Thread Rich Lentz
 
My Radio Shack desk Atomic Clock switched as required.

Rich,
KE0X

-Original Message-
Meanwhile my dumb atomic clock has decided it doesn't believe in this stuff
either, right now I have it on mountain time to keep it ahead an hour of
where it was. Is WWV/WWVH not sending info that accounts for daylight
savings time any more? 73 de Alex NS6Y


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RE: [Elecraft] Computer control issues - unreliable firmware?

2006-04-01 Thread Rich Lentz

The K2 has a great built in serial bus called the AUX BUS.  All
communications between various modules take place over this bus except for
the I/O. I believe elsewhere it would be called the 1-Wire or Single Wire
Bus and the capabilities of the 1-Wire Bus are limitless.  Someone that
knows what is going on could probably interface directly to the aux bus and
not even use the K2IO.  The K2 serial I/O (pseudo RS-232) uses 2 of the MCU
ports and the needed overhead of code, memory, parts, etc. to talk to the
K2IO, which in turn talks to a USB/serial converter, which in-turn talks to
the PC (And who knows what inside there).  

As a long time comm. engineer then you should know the virtues of getting
rid of three (four) devices in series that do nothing more than convert a
signal back and forth, up and down, so that two devices can talk to each
other. Especially when they could talk to each other directly. My thought is
get rid of the K2IO, the daisy chain of converters, free up the wasted
memory, two MCU ports and do two things: 1) use a USB chip fed directly by
the AUX Bus to provide USB interface. 2) take that freed up memory and add
more useful features, e.g. switches that could be used to activate amps, or,
monitoring of various aspects of the K2 (Temp, etc.) and maybe even free up
memory for other features.  This would be an Option, the K2IO would still
be available (for those that don't want to change) BUT there would also be a
K2USB (or whatever) for those of us that don’t like dongles plugged into
dongles plugged into adapters to talk to the K2.  

As I said in the first, the newer lap tops have no serial port, and other
than a dongle it is cost prohibitive to add one.  The new PC I just bought
ONLY has a PCI express slot open, there is no PCI slot and I have been
unable to find a PCIexpress serial adapter. I guess a could take out the
four port USB/3 port 1394 adapter and buy a new four port USB/3 port 1394/2
port serial adapter ($$$) but the cost is almost 1/4th the price of the PC -
thus no way.   In the future new PCs will be even harder to use serial other
than the dongle - and I HATE dongles.

Rich,
KE0X




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 9:21 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Computer control issues - unreliable firmware?

On Thu, 30 Mar 2006 12:22:31 -0600, Rich Lentz wrote:

We went through this a few years ago, but it sure would be nice for 
Elecraft to make a USB interface and scrap the serial adapter 
altogether. I think now is the time as the last two computers I bought 
have NO SERIAL PORT and no way of adding a card.

  I don't want to re-kick a dead horse, but you are making a bad
  assumption that everyone has or likes USB ports.  I keep mine
  turned off because they interfere with other on-board adapters in my
  main machine which has 8 serial ports in use running IBM Warp OS/2,
  and I don;t have any external devices whoch run on USB.

  My newest computer (6 months old) running Win XP has 1 built-in
  serial port, and I have three multi-port cards and the slots
  available to use them.  Right now I have three ports in use on that
  machine.

  As aa long-time comm engineer I speak serial quite well, and
  would not buy a computer that did not have capability to add or
  enlarge same.

  Pardon my rant - I'll shut up now.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

   K2/100 5402 - coming to a
   HF band near you real soon

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RE: [Elecraft] Computer control issues - unreliable firmware?

2006-03-30 Thread Rich Lentz
 Not to endorse radio shack but, I have had very good luck with their
USB-Serial adapter.

We went through this a few years ago, but it sure would be nice for Elecraft
to make a USB interface and scrap the serial adapter altogether. I think now
is the time as the last two computers I bought have NO SERIAL PORT and no
way of adding a card.

Rich.
KE0X



A serious suggestion for Elecraft - sell or recommend a good USB = serial
converter to avoid the misery caused by the lesser options out there.


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RE: [Elecraft] Computer control issues - unreliable firmware?

2006-03-30 Thread Rich Lentz
 Got a microHAM USB-II and it works GREAT!

Rich,
KE0X


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RE: [Elecraft] Computer control issues - unreliable firmware?

2006-03-30 Thread Rich Lentz
Not sure of the others on this list but EVERYTIME I have ever used a
USB/Serial adapter on a USB hub I have had problems.  Often it was not
recognized upon startup of the PC - it was only recognized when unplugged
and then plugged in with the PC On.  I had to place the adapter in every USB
socket it was ever in and then Uninstall - the device. THEN place in the
HUB.  The serial adapter ALWAYS had to be in the same HUB socket.  I ended
up with 6 - 8 serial ports only one of which was any good.  Ended up
restoring  (can only do with WIN-XP) the PC to before I ever bought the
@#$% thing. I now only place it in a specific non-HUB USB socket and always
the same one.  Might be a good idea to put some fingernail polish on the
socket/plug.

Rich,
KE0X


From KE1EV - Oh, in re-reading your message, it looks like the transfer rate
is an issue.  I've got my USB/Serial adapters out on USB hubs, so they don't
get full bandwidth.  Maybe that's the issue.  Odd that a 4800 baud device
needs 200+mb connection to work...


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RE: [Elecraft] serial port remote control of K2 question

2006-03-27 Thread Rich Lentz
Upon looking at the various pages you referred to, it appears that they have
made the proper adaptor for use with the K2.  You would, however, need the
KIO2 for this to work. Elecraft does not recommend a direct connection to
the /K2 TX, /K2 RX lines as this could cause problems.

As to the other questions, IF you have the KIO2, the KIO2 will interface
WITH the Recommended adapter cable to a PC and uses +/- 15 (approximately)
volt signals on pins 2/3 with 5 as common/signal ground (standard PC I/O).
ALL other pins must have no connection!!! (or you will brake the K2 and
possibly the K2 MCU.  For most S/W to talk to the K2 it is assumed that pins
7 and 8 are tied together at the cable.  I would address your questions to
WWW Lynovation Com  and ask them what is needed.  

Rich, KE0X 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dr. Werner Furlan
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 2:27 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] serial port remote control of K2 question

hi all, 

has anybody already connected a Bluetooth CTR Interface to the serial port
of the K2? What are the voltage levels needed? RS232 or TTL?
FYI, the CTR Interface page is here:
http://www.lynovation.com/

73! de Werner OE9FWV

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RE: [Elecraft] Anti-Static Grounding - how?

2006-03-21 Thread Rich Lentz
That 1 meg resistor not only causes a slow discharge of any static buildup
on you it also protects you. You could easily get a good zap by connecting
yourself with a solid wire to what you think is ground.  Don’t think that
you can save money by hooking up a test lead to your wrist watch band and
ground. I got a good jolt when I was a kid (many years ago) from a
grounded drill that was plugged into a grounded outlet in my barn.  The
power line had the Hot, Neutral and Ground BUT there was no local ground rod
in the barn. At first we thought that the Hot wire had shorted to the case.
As luck would have it the fuse panel ground had gotten mowed off below the
meter, the only ground for the house and barn, and the utility crew forget
to ground the transformer after an accident some months earlier. There was
enough voltage to light a bulb, over 90 volts, between the ground wire and
earth.

Rich,
KE0X

---
Indeed, some house grounds have induced voltages in having long runs back to
any ground point; and might not be the safest thing to tie your static mat
to as a ground point.  Ground in AC systems may have imbalance phase
currents and be much different from a zero voltage point.  It shouldn't
ideally, but the real world resistances of wiring carrying heavy current my
make it so.

-Stuart
K5KVH 




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RE: [Elecraft] Anti-Static Grounding - how?

2006-03-21 Thread Rich Lentz
 


That 1 meg resistor not only causes a slow discharge of any static buildup
on you it also protects you. You could easily get a good zap by connecting
yourself with a solid wire to what you think is ground.  Don’t think that
you can save money by hooking up a test lead to your wrist watch band and
ground. I got a good jolt when I was a kid (many years ago) from a
grounded drill that was plugged into a grounded outlet in my barn.  The
power line had the Hot, Neutral and Ground BUT there was no local ground rod
in the barn. At first we thought that the Hot wire had shorted to the case.
As luck would have it the fuse panel ground had gotten mowed off below the
meter, the only ground for the house and barn, and the utility crew forget
to ground the transformer after an accident some months earlier. There was
enough voltage to light a bulb, over 90 volts, between the ground wire and
earth.

Rich,
KE0X

---
Indeed, some house grounds have induced voltages in having long runs back to
any ground point; and might not be the safest thing to tie your static mat
to as a ground point.  Ground in AC systems may have imbalance phase
currents and be much different from a zero voltage point.  It shouldn't
ideally, but the real world resistances of wiring carrying heavy current my
make it so.

-Stuart
K5KVH 





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RE: [Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread Rich Lentz
I have had good luck with the one RadioShack sells.  Zonet ZUC3100 also
seems to work on both my laptop and desktop with everything I own. Be
careful - some do not provide all of the needed support output/inputs (CTS,
RTS, DTE, etc.). I had one that would lock up my laptop after loading the
needed driver and then plugging in the adapter. Another seemed to work
properly but would not talk to the Magellan GPS, even though it had no
problem talking to the K2. Thus make sure that where you buy it from has a
good return policy, and try it out on all serial devices you intend on using
within the return policy time limit.

Rich,
KE0X


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RE: [Elecraft] Adjustment of L34 on a K2

2006-02-26 Thread Rich Lentz
Charlie

Here is a technique I used to adjust L34 - While performing the I.F.
Amplifier Alignment section of Alignment and Test Part II, I  used
Spectrogram (just about any program that displays the received signals
should work).  I had meant to put this hint on  the reflector long ago and
keep forgetting. 

Follow the instructions for I.F. Amplifier Alignment.  When you get to the
last step plug the PC sound card into the Speaker Jack (not Headphone as it
attenuates some high frequencies - but it probably don't make that much
difference).  You will notice some noise spread across the spectrum
displayed. Make sure the XFIL is set for FL-1 OP-1.  Now continue to adjust
L34 for a compromise of the lowest displayed noise and the highest level of
the tone (signal).  You will find a point where the noise is almost non
existent.

Even though I had adjusted this to what I thought was the best by ear,
after using this method and then re-adjusting the AGC threshold,  I was
amazed at the difference in sensitivity and audio level (I think the noise
de-senses the AGC - perhaps the experts can explain this).  Maybe this is
one of the problems/reasons some people complain about low output volume.

Rich,
KE0X

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Charlie, W0YG
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 8:52 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Adjustment of L34 on a K2


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RE: [Elecraft] Adjustment of L34 on a K2

2006-02-26 Thread Rich Lentz

Charlie

Here is a technique I used to adjust L34 - While performing the I.F.
Amplifier Alignment section of Alignment and Test Part II, I  used
Spectrogram (just about any program that displays the received signals
should work).  I had meant to put this hint on  the reflector long ago and
keep forgetting. 

Follow the instructions for I.F. Amplifier Alignment.  When you get to the
last step plug the PC sound card into the Speaker Jack (not Headphone as it
attenuates some high frequencies - but it probably don't make that much
difference).  You will notice some noise spread across the spectrum
displayed. Make sure the XFIL is set for FL-1 OP-1.  Now continue to adjust
L34 for a compromise of the lowest displayed noise and the highest level of
the tone (signal).  You will find a point where the noise is almost non
existent.

Even though I had adjusted this to what I thought was the best by ear,
after using this method and then re-adjusting the AGC threshold,  I was
amazed at the difference in sensitivity and audio level (I think the noise
de-senses the AGC - perhaps the experts can explain this).  Maybe this is
one of the problems/reasons some people complain about low output volume.

Rich,
KE0X

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Charlie, W0YG
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 8:52 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Adjustment of L34 on a K2



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[Elecraft] FS - K2 #2260 - Mint condition

2006-02-17 Thread Rich Lentz

Now that I have retired, it is winter and cold outside I just can’t suppress
the urge to build so I'm going to part with my K2 #2260 so I can build
another Elecraft K2.

2260 was built by me, its only owner, an experienced (retired) Navy Chief
Electronics Technician.

This beautiful Elecraft K2 QRP is loaded with the following options
installed:

KSB2 – SSB Option ($99)
KX160RX -160M, 2nd RX Antenna Option ($39)
KNB2 – Noise Blanker Option ($39)
KI02 – RS-232 Interface AND cable ($89)
KAT2 – 20W Internal ATU ($159)
KBT2 - Internal Battery w/battery ($67)

The filter flattening mod, matched Xtals, Temperature-Compensated PLL
Upgrade, Temperature Stability, PSK31 Upgrade, and the side tone
purity mod have been done. Speaker Grill cloth is available but not
installed.  Wired for Elecraft MH2 Mike, will add the MH2 Mike at cost.

Works flawlessly, with no cosmetic blemishes (Non-smoker).  Is perfectly
tuned, WWV is within 10Hz +/-, very little drift after warm-up or with room
temperature changes, and the band pass is fairly flat.  Excellent
sensitivity and no problems with “low volume” as discussed on the reflector.
Very little shift of frequencies between XFIL selections. Have received many
complements on the audio quality.

I will include all documentation for the K2 and each of the options. If
there are one or two Options you feel that you don’t need, the Options are
optional and we can discuss not including them (with decrease in price) as I
can and will use them again. If you’d like pictures, please feel free to
contact me (richlentz at cox.net). New current kit prices, including mods
and shipping charges, total well over $1100. $800 and it is yours. Includes
2 - 3 day shipping at this price. I accept USPS Money Orders and PayPal. I
will double box ship. 

Contact off reflector or by phone – 402 573 0406.

Tnx es 73,
Rich,
KE0X


 

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RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 busted?

2006-01-29 Thread Rich Lentz
The small inductors (L2, L3, L4) act as fuses.  If any of these are open it
will not work.  If all of these are good then there is a good possibility it
could be the K2 MCU.  I zapped mine when a nearby lightning strike hit with
the antenna still connected.  The rig worked BUT the inductors, K2 MCU AND
the PC serial port were all wiped out.  The K2 still worked in all other
regards with no other loss of function - go figure.

Rich


What are the components that are likely to need replacing? I'll add them to
my inevitable next Elecraft order for him.


 

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RE: [Elecraft] Battery Power

2006-01-23 Thread Rich Lentz

 Shoot, they didn't even allow those things 'indoors' on ships! They were
in their own ventilated locker outside the radio room. 

They do allow them and need them on submarines and these batteries are big
enough you could get in the jar!  Only time they are vented outside is when
performing an equalizing charge. However, they do ventilate the area to
prevent H2 buildup in pockets. 

Get out your chemistry book and work out the molar equations, for the
average auto/boat deep cycle battery the amount of hydrogen released during
a normal charge is minimal. Very high charge rates (60 120 amp/hr) releases
H2 quicker. But there is still a limited amount. Additionally, there would
be no H2SO4 or H2O left. Even if all of it was used up you are only talking
a few grams (Liters) of Hydrogen and that would be released over several
hours.

Rich

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[Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread Rich Lentz
I would like some advice on the correct Ferrite beads to use in the P/S line
to minimize noise from a switching P/S. Though slightly off topic, with the
exception you must get power to the Elecraft rig somehow and quite often it
is a switching power supply due to their small size this is going to be used
for my K2. I have read many recommendations on their use here but can't find
the answers to my questions. I have spent several hours on the internet and
the only conclusive information is Don't get one of those split beads from
Radio Shack as they are for frequencies above 30 MHZ.  There was discussion
on using type 75 or 77  as this has a higher impedance at lower
frequency but that does not help me. 

My question is What Ferrite Bead, Core, etc.?  Can someone give me a part
number.

How big does it need to be so that 10 amps, 25 amps, etc will not hurt it?

How many turns through the core?

Should the wire (wires) be bi-filar wound or separated and wound on opposite
sides?

Thanks,

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 drifting?

2005-05-02 Thread Rich Lentz
The RTTY or Digital filters are available on the newer versions of
firmware and allow a complete set of filters tuned and setup specifically
for RTTY or digital modes, however they must be enabled.  The manual
explains this Or if you have an older K2 with an upgraded MCU then you need
to look at the newer manual.

The major point is that -  1. it is almost impossible to get any of the
narrower filters within 1 Hz of the main (OP1) filter that is used for
transmit in all cases regardless of which filter is selected. 2. The PSK
program will transmit a tone equal to what the PSK program thinks is the
received signal frequency - however, that is off frequency by 1 to as much
as 20/30 Hz. from the actual received frequency when ANY filter is used
other than OP1 because the K2 switches to OP1 in transmit. (The offset can
be observed by tuning in a solid carrier and switching filters.)  3. If the
other Party has AFC turned on then he will now transmit at that new
frequency and thus the drift or actually frequency starts walking up/down
the band.  

If you don't have AFC turned on then you will continue to transmit at the
same frequency, unless you reset the signal to the new frequency. If at
least one of the two parties involved does not have AFC turned on then Drift
is less likely to happen. 

There is a small amount of drift in the K2 (less with the Temp Stabilizing
MOD) from cold start for about 15 - 30 Minutes. Thus the above discussion
assumes that 1. you have the temp stabilizing mod installed and 2. the rig
has been on for about 30 minutes.

Rich


--

Oh, good point.  I forgot to mention that I was using  FL4 which was 
specifically set up for 1000 Hz center frequency and 700 Hz bandwidth.  

I thought that FL4 was specifically set up for digital modes.  Does that 
mean other digital modes like RTTY and that PSK31 should be run with 
OP1 instead? 

Mark, NK8Q


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RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 drifting?

2005-05-02 Thread Rich Lentz
K2 Temperature Compensated PLL Reference Upgrade - Only needed for K2 SN
less than 3446 - you do not need it.

It has been my experience that the offset remains the same - this is related
to your calibration for the XFIL's.

Do not have the DSP filter - perhaps Lyle can answer that question.

Rich



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RE: [Elecraft] K2 drifting?

2005-05-01 Thread Rich Lentz
I observed the same problem when I use any of the filters (XFIL) other than
the main one OP1.  The narrower filters can be slightly off frequency but
you always transmit with OP1.  Thus you will be slightly off frequency when
you transmit at what you hear for the other parties frequency. His PSK
program will use AFC to find your signal and transmit at that frequency.
Thus the next time you will transmit lower because your AFC is also
tracking. Cure - If you use narrow filters then SHUT OFF AFC in the PSK
program (it's near impossible to get the narrower filters of the K2 within 1
Hz.)

Rich
KE0X 

-

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RE: [Elecraft] Parcel is waiting...

2005-04-28 Thread Rich Lentz
How can a true Elcrafter order a kit and then leave his house?  I even take
days off from work when the package is about to arrive so that I can be
waiting for it, and not have to wait for them to re-deliver it the next day.

Rich


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Receiver Instability

2005-03-09 Thread Rich Lentz
My best guess is that you neglected to solder a pin or have a cold solder
joint on U4 - the PLL synthesizer.  Quite often an un-soldered pin will work
for a year or more, then oxidation causes it to go intermittent and then not
work at all.  Check solder connections for the parts on the top half of
sheet 1 of 4 of RF Board.

Next I would check voltages and that should give you an idea of where there
could be a problem.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] PSK 31

2005-03-02 Thread Rich Lentz
I have had very good luck with the Rascal interface. Got the kit and picked
one that supplied an 8 pin mike connector. Wired up to be compatible to my
mike wiring.  I am also using MixW2 - well worth the $50!- MixW2 controls
bands, frequency and puts the data in the mini (big enough for me) log.
MixW2 also has ready made contest logs, ask someone else about these as I
am not a contester.  I selected RST for PTT/CW Key, used a larger interface
box than BuxComm provided and added a DB-9 connector.  This is wired to pass
through the CAT signals (ONLY PASS THESE THROUGH unless you want to replace
the MCU and K2IO!!!) which allows me complete control of the K2.  You would
want to select your PTT/CW-Key output based upon the needs of your programs.
DigiPan is free and sufficient for PSK-31, not sure if it provides K2
control signals.  I am now using (perfecting) a completely optical isolation
interface which is in the prototype stage. Some people have had luck without
isolation of the audio signals - with a laptop you might be lucky. 

Rich,
KE0X


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 : troubles with level on AF speaker

2005-02-26 Thread Rich Lentz
Cyrille:

My best guess is that you have reversed the wires in SPK-J1 - The connector
on the cover. OR you have reversed the ground (earth) on SPK-J2 - The
speaker jack on the rear of the cover.

Remove the cover and set it away from the base,  Disconnect the internal
battery if you have it, just to make sure there is no ground (earth) return.
If volume is increased then the ground connection is reversed somewhere. 


Rich,
KE0X


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 - NOISY POLLING

2005-02-17 Thread Rich Lentz
My radio was unusable until I added an isolation transformer between the
mike input and audio output (1 each).  Just used junk box transformers with
no idea of the input/output impedance.  The PC Sound card is very high
impedance so no need to assume you need to have a 1:1 or 20K to 4 ohm,
picked for their size (SMALL )  Signal level was such that I had to add a
100K/1K divider feeding the Sound card.  Got rid of all noise except the
noise from the oscillators in the PC and monitor.  Since you end up adding
the CAT-IO interface it is kind of hard to eliminate any ground return (and
associated ground-loop) unless you also add an optical isolator. 

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] Automated BPL Interference Data Collection.

2005-02-13 Thread Rich Lentz
I think you are making this to difficult. 

FACTS:

BPL will cause noise across the entire HF Spectrum.
Hams only use selected portions of this spectrum.
There is no easy way to digitize the entire spectrum.
Radio Jove software will record signal strength based upon the noise level
(don't need to know the S meter reading) for as long as you let it run. 1,
2, 10, 24, 100, 1000, etc, (there is no set limit) hours.  It hooks up like
PSK, rtty, etc to your sound card.
Sampling techniques can prove increased noise at one frequency means
increased noise at other frequencies 

Solution.

Using the Radio Jove software record 3 to 5 frequencies on each band at
, 0300, 0600, 1200, 1500, 1800, and 2100 for about 1 minute each as a
base.  Might want to include local emergency frequencies.  

The output is saved as a data file (read how the software works).

Do this again once a week (some periodicity) before BPL is installed to
establish a base line.

Do this again once a week (some periodicity) after BPL is installed.

As it is all relative any radio will do as long as the same (set of)
frequencies are used (but the frequency only needs to be close, +/- 1 kHz
not +/- 1 Hz). This technique will work with just one frequency.  The
additional are only needed to show the uninformed.

Take the date and put in ACCESS, EXCEL, etc, and plot the before and after.

Send graphs to FCC, your congressman.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] Automated BPL Interference Data Collection.

2005-02-12 Thread Rich Lentz
Perhaps the amateur radio telescope software would work.  Look at this web
page,

http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/  they have a kit but why not use a K1 set to
one (each for a day) QRP frequencies.

More info here http://my.integritynet.com.au/purdic/radio-telescope.htm

Perhaps several of us should do this.

Used as conceived this makes a great Science Fair project for budding
(existing) hams.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] Q7 base resistance test - low reading

2005-01-30 Thread Rich Lentz
Try taking off the heat sink, i.e. unmount the transistor, and then measure
the resistance again.  This will determine if the mounting has introduced
the short.  DO NOT USE THE STAR WASHERS. One of the options indicates this
but it is not in the manual yet.  I had the same problem and found a VERY
SMALL piece of metal on the insulator, needed a magnifying glass to see it.
After removing this small piece of metal all was fine. I guess this is why
they now recommend not using the star washers. 

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Tilt Bail Installation Question

2005-01-22 Thread Rich Lentz
I found it rather simple to use the method that has been provided here many
times.

Partially assembly the stand and the feet, with the stand extended.
 
Use the recommended screws to the front or closest to the notch the stand
fits in when extended.
Select the longest screws available (they will go in at an angle but will
fit) and chinch the stand and feet down.
Once firmly in place, One-at-a-time, remove the long screws and replace with
the Elecraft recommended screws.

This required very little effort.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 IF Amp Alignment and AGC Threshold

2005-01-14 Thread Rich Lentz
Rather than using a DMM, while you have the rig hooked up to the PC (Speaker
jack NOT Phone jack) and using Spectrogram, follow the steps for the IF
Amplifier alignment - BUT look for the least amount of noise and a peak in
the signal.  If you don't have Spectrogram, use any PSK program with a
waterfall display and minimize the background clutter (like snow on a TV)
and maximize the brightness of the tone.  Works great and much easier.  Made
a tremendous difference on my rig.  I think if people that complained of
Low output volume there problems would go away.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] A minor C22 question

2005-01-03 Thread Rich Lentz

Did you re-run CAL PLL, ** AND ** XFIL on ** ALL ** Modes (USB, LSB, CW,
CWR, RTTY,  RTTYR)
** AND ** when running CAL XFIL you MUST change the number (up or down at
least on digit and then back to the same number) so that the MCU knows that
it needs to re-store the frequency settings for the BFO. 

Otherwise you have changed nothing but the frequency of the reference
oscillator.  For a long explanation see W3FPR's discussion.  The short one
is that the MCU stores a digit representing the voltage necessary to make
the frequency.  This is number determined by the Reference oscillator
whose accuracy determines the repeatability and accuracy across all bands.
In other words the 4.0 MHz oscillator is only used for the frequency
measurement.  It only measures the frequency when you run the CAL FILL and
CAL XFIL.  After that it does nothing.  

Rich,
KE0X
 
---
Last night I redid my C22 reference oscillator adjustment using WWV on 10mhz
as the zero beat reference.  This is the third time I have adjusted C22 and
each time I am able to adjust C22 to a precise offset balancing TP1 and TP2.
However, when I put the cover back on the K2/100 I find that WWV zero beats
a few tens of hz off.  (After last night's adjustment, the zero beat was
1.03)  One should expect to be +- 10 hz as that is the finest resolution
of the VCO, but it would be nice to get a little closer.  

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[Elecraft] Power supply for K1 / K2

2005-01-03 Thread Rich Lentz
I got a new Scanner for Christmas and no longer use the UMAX scanner.  Noted
that it had a small 12VDC switching power supply.  Checked out the voltage,
polarity, current rating, etc and decided it would work as a neat SMALL
portable P/S for the K1/K2 when on trips.  In researching the P/S found this
link and they are only $19.95 US.  They work on 90 to 265 VAC so they should
be good for overseas and probably available over there also.  NOT good for
charging the internal battery if you have one but would partially restore
and keep from discharging.  K2 is much lighter without it - unless you must
go portable. Here is a link.

http://www.umax.com/scanners/index.jsp?cate=Scanners%3A+Accessoriesskunum=6
8300061-

(The above is a long link so you may need to paste it back together.)

Here is a link for the Specifications.
http://www.powerstream.com/z/SA0612.pdf

I have no interest in UMAX and am in no way affiliated with them.  Just
thought this was a good deal.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 control Board Resistance Checks

2004-12-29 Thread Rich Lentz
If you get strange readings after reversing the leads try reading the
resistance on pin 21 (8R) and pin 23 (8T) of P2 Look at Appendix B Control
Board.  even the best of us occasionally mistake the pin out on
transistors.

Rich,
KE0X


Chuck,

Try reversing your DMM probes - it is possible that no real problem exists. 

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RE: [Elecraft] Need some manuals for older kits

2004-12-27 Thread Rich Lentz
http://bama.sbc.edu/index.html

http://ac6v.com/manuals.htm

Has a large collection of old ham gear manuals.

Rich,
KE0X

-Original Message-
 I need manuals for the following:

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[Elecraft] Desktop Search.

2004-12-27 Thread Rich Lentz
I have found a tool that is very helpful finding those saved messages from
Elecraft and your other e-mails or other documents on your PC.  The Google
Desktop Search.  It is still beta but has helped me tremendously since I
downloaded it.  Click on the Free Google Downloads link on the main Google
Search page.

Rich,
KE0X  

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RE: [Elecraft] k2/100 problem-help

2004-12-24 Thread Rich Lentz
If you are using a non-resonant antenna try lengthen (shortening) the
antenna lead in. Add a length of coax and see what happens.  You could have
an unloadable length of line. 

  This occurs only on 40 meters. There is no problem on any other band or
frequency.


Rich,
KE0X




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RE: [Elecraft] Updated schmatics/errata question

2004-12-07 Thread Rich Lentz
C46 is part of the new Key-Click mod which requires different firmware in
the MCU than you have. 

Trying to incorporate all of the newer mods is difficult for an experienced
kit builder/technician.  I would strongly recommend only following the
errata that came with your kit.  If you are not sure if you have it, then
request it from this reflector, include your serial number and if you have a
copy of the purchase order or box, the date it was sent.  Build it first
this way and get it working.  

After it is working, then, look at the Elecraft MODS page and the various
web pages that have listings of mods and add those that are Elecraft
endorsed.  Many of those incorporated into the newer K2 are these mods and
are available on Elecraft, along with the necessary firmware (New MCU) when
needed.  Many are not needed if you are going to stay QRP.  Not all MODS are
necessary, for example, there was a long discussion on the need for the
key-click mod. It passed ARRL testing without, but if you are going to add
the KPA100, I would add it.  But make the basic K2 work first.

Rich,
KE0X

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[Elecraft] SSBCAPKT

2004-12-04 Thread Rich Lentz
Just finished installing the SSBCAPKT MOD this AM.  Took less than two hours
including alignment, and I don't have a Hako! Well worth the time and the
few dollars it cost.  The SSB is much easier to listen to, yet doesn't sound
like the HiFi'ers. 

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] C13, C14 Values RF board K2?

2004-11-05 Thread Rich Lentz
The Correct values are 1200 pf.  Do you have the manual? Have you downloaded
the PDF file from Elecraft?  If not you should and probably start by
following the instructions for 160 Alignment on page 9.

Rich,
KE0X

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Althoff
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 7:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] C13, C14 Values RF board K2?


I'm experiencing low (7-8 watts) output on 160M on my used K2.  All other
bands run 12-18W.  In manually inspecting each component for proper value I
notice that the caps for C13 and C14 in my unit are labeled .001M.   Now
that would be 1,000pf. +/-20%, as low as 800pf or as high as 1200pf (if 20%
error..maybe they are 10%?).   Are these the original caps or am I once
again facing part substitution by the previous 160M option builder?

Tom K2TA

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RE: [Elecraft] HALP! K2/100 and KIO2 seem DEAF to serial comms.

2004-10-23 Thread Rich Lentz
What happens when you try HyperTerminal?


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[Elecraft] FS: Beautiful Elecraft K2 (QRP fully loaded)

2004-09-26 Thread Rich Lentz
I have recently retired and can't suppress the urge to build so I'm going to
part with my K2 #2260 so I can build another Elecraft K2.

2260 was built by me, its only owner, an experienced (retired) Electronics
Technician.

This beautiful Elecraft K2 QRP is loaded with the following options
installed:

KSB2 - SSB Option
KX160RX -160M, 2nd RX Antenna Option
KNB2 - Noise Blanker Option
KI02 - RS-232 Interface AND cable
KAT2 - 20W Internal ATU
KBT2 - Internal Battery w/battery

The filter flattening mod, matched Xtals, Temperature-Compensated PLL
Upgrade, Temperature Stability, PSK31 Upgrade, and the side tone purity
mod have been done. Speaker Grill cloth available but not installed.  Wired
for Elecraft MH2 Mike, will add Mike at cost.

Works flawlessly, with no cosmetic blemishes.  Is perfectly tuned, WWV is
within 10Hz +/-, very little drift after warm-up or with room temperature
changes, and the band pass is fairly flat.  Excellent sensitivity and no
problems with low volume as discussed on the reflector.  Very little shift
of frequencies between XFIL selections. Have received many complements on
the audio quality.

I will include all documentation for the K2 and each of the options. Options
are optional as I can use them again. If you'd like pictures, please feel
free to contact me (richlentz at cox.net). New current kit prices, including
mods and shipping charges, total well over $1100.  $900 and it is yours.
Includes 2 - 3 day shipping at this price OBO. I accept USPS Money Orders. I
will double box ship. 

Contact off reflector or by phone - 402 573 0406.

Tnx es 73,
Rich,
KE0X


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Update: [Elecraft] FS: Beautiful Elecraft K2 (QRP fully loaded)

2004-09-26 Thread Rich Lentz
I am new at this. 

$900 and it is yours. Includes 2 - 3 day shipping at this price OBO  

- Within continental US (Or Canada/Mexico if same price) if more, you pay
the difference! 
- Shipping address must agree with call sign address (I don't want to be
scammed).

Tnx es 73,
Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] SSTV and the K2

2004-09-18 Thread Rich Lentz


I have gotten excellent SSTV pictures using MixW2 with my K2.  The audio is
normally coming from the Headphone jack, so I don't think that is your
problem.  More likely is that you do not have the frequency tuned in
properly - If the voice is good it should be on frequency.  Another cause
could be that you are not using the right mode. MixW2 auto picks the mode.
I have not transmitted SSTV, so don't know about that but it should work.
Make sure you are using XFIL - 1 (OP1).  ChromaPix also receives good SSTV
on the K2.  Either of these give you a trial period and may help you figure
out what to do with a free program.  These can be found by a WWW search.

Rich,
KE0X

  


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[Elecraft] PCB Layout Electronic Schematics

2004-09-08 Thread Rich Lentz
I know this is off topic, but I have seen references to other programs like
this.

I just found Eagle Version 4.13 which is available FREE for non commercial
use at www . Cadsoft . de/freeware.htm  (delete the spaces to use this
link).  I know nothing about these programs but I was using it in 5 minutes
and made a template for a PCB in two days.  Best of all you can print either
layer and make your own PCB (ala laser masking, etc.) and not have to get it
made from the supplier of the proprietary software that wont even let you
print it. Yet, this program is sophisticated enough to make 8 layer boards.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Iambic b Strange Effect

2004-09-04 Thread Rich Lentz


It happened to me often enough that I shut off Auto-Detect and I use A
mode. 

Rich
KE0X



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RE: [Elecraft] External Keying Auto-Detect problem

2004-08-30 Thread Rich Lentz
Ken:

It is kind of tricky to get it right.  The actions you describe indicate
that you have the underline under the InP. The underline can not be under
the InP to get this extra feature.  

Follow these steps:

Tap Menu

Then Select (that is, rotate the VFO as needed) - InP  PdLn - (or it may
read PdLr or HAnd), 

Depress (HOLD) MENU so that PdLn (or it may read PdLr or HAnd) is underlined
(or if you use reverse paddle that PdLr is underlined. Don't leave it in
Hand as this is pure Straight Key. If it reads HAnd rotate the VFO to PdLn
or PdLr.)  The underline can not be under the InP

Now tap DISPLAY.  You should briefly see  AdEt  and either OFF or On.

Tap DISPLAY again if you need to so that the last display you saw is AdEt
On. (It toggles each time you tap DISPLAY.) 

Then exit the menu (tap Menu key).

I have found that sometimes I need to shut off auto-detect as I squeeze
the two paddles together at exactly the same time and thus get a long dah
rather than di dah di dah di dah.

Rich,
KE0X
 

-Original Message-
From: KEN N4SO [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 9:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] External Keying Auto-Detect problem


Rich,
Mine says  Pdln  DISPLAY  
response  is  SEC
Port OFF

One problem I have noticed is no keying on insertion of the 
Bencher paddle key line cable.   I have to play around with it
before I get any keying.  Is this related?

Ken  N4SO  Mobile, AL
K2   #3394


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RE: [Elecraft] Use more heat - soldering technique caution

2004-08-29 Thread Rich Lentz
 I would like to caution newcomers and first time builders on the turning

the knob on your new adjustable soldering station (e.g. Pace, Haako,
Weller, Metcal) to 
achieve more heat.

EXCELLENT Discussion.  

As an experiment, try soldering two small (#24) copper (untinned) wires
together with the highest setting.  You can see the rosin burn up and not
clean the copper and the solder does not stick.

With the correct temperature the rosin will wet the surface, then the
boiling flux (rosin) cleans off the oxide layer on the copper.  After the
oxide layer has been removed, the solder adheres to the CLEAN copper. The
flux has vaporized (boiled away) and the two components are bonded
(soldered) together.  

Thus, if to hot the rosin boils away before cleaning the copper or ends up
as burnt black specs around the joint (when really hot!).  You also risk
burning the PCB because of the high temperature.

If to cold the rosin does not properly clean the joint and also is not
boiled away and you end up with a poor joint or with blobs of rosin around
the joint.  You also risk burning the PCB because it takes to long to make
the connection.

This is why you don't need to remove the flux on a properly soldered
connection.

Rich,
KE0X




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RE: [Elecraft] External Keying Auto-Detect problem

2004-08-29 Thread Rich Lentz


 The K2 is suposed to detect simultaneous closures on the dit and dah
lines, and interpret that as a hand key input.  Not doing it so far. When I
turn on the K2, the firmware versions displayed are 2.03d and 1.07.

Bob:

Select -  Menu, InP - then - PdLn,  Now tap DISPLAY.  You should briefly
see  AdEt  and either OFF or On.

Select On. Then exit the menu (tap any other key.

Rich,
KE0X
 

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RE: [Elecraft] Help figuring out missing part

2004-08-24 Thread Rich Lentz
There is a mistake on the parts list page of Appendix A, RF Section for
C198.  You will notice that the caps above and below list 20 (or 200) and 33
(or 330)  but somehow C198 is 27 (or 271) - WRONG!  Should be 27 (or 270).

As I remember, when I built mine it was marked with a 27.  

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] More antenna problems

2004-07-27 Thread Rich Lentz
Terry

I am using a hy-gain vertical (6BTV) and also have a random length of wire.
Both have given me contacts in the US and decent DX - 4X, XE, LU, TI2, TG,
etc.  It sounds to me like you are picking up a lot of just plain old line
noise, that is, dimmers, florescent lights and the cursed switching power
supply used in most PCs.

My wire is a length of RG-58, about 50 feet, running to the edge of the
house at ground level, there the shield is grounded to an 8 foot ground rod.
For static drain I have a 100 uh inductor across the center and ground at
this point, like is added on the KPA-100 mod. I then took 70 ft of copper
wire, Radio Shack SWL antenna wire, went straight up the house to the peak
(about 18 feet) and then over to the highest tree that I could get a rock
through one of the branches (about 40 feet high and 40 feet away.  The wire
is not tight and sort of makes a sagging arch about like a quarter circle.
But it works almost as good as the Hy-Gain and the K2 has no problem tuning
it on any band.  WWV comes through on 15 at 10 to 20 over in the late
afternoon early evenings.  

You might want to make sure that you have set L34 at its optimum point as
the noise will affect the AGC in addition to giving you extra noise.  A
technique I stumbled on follows.

Follow the instructions for I.F. Amplifier Alignment.  When you get to the
last step plug the PC sound card into the Speaker Jack (not Headphone as it
attenuates some high frequencies).  You will notice some noise spread across
the Spectrogram display. Make sure the XFIL is set for FL-1 
OP-1.  Now continue to adjust L34 for a compromise of the lowest displayed
noise and the highest level of the tone.  You will find a point where the
noise is almost non existent.  If you don't have Spectrogram just about any
PSK program will also work - I found the waterfall mode gave a sort of
Sonar display that was obvious when all of the grass (noise) was gone.

Follow the instructions for setting the AGC (do that after above even if you
thought it was set properly.

Even though I had adjusted this to what I thought was the best by ear,
after using this method and then re-adjusting the ARC threshold.  I was
amazed at the difference in sensitivity and audio level.  Maybe this is one
of the problems/reasons you have low output volume, high noise, or low
gain.

Rich
KE0X


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RE: [Elecraft] My K2 transmitter sounds odd

2004-07-09 Thread Rich Lentz
I had the same problem as you.  However, the K2 was GREAT on the air.  I
finally traced the problem to the fact that both were using the same power
supply (cured most of it) and to much transmit power - used a dummy load for
both the K2 and the 706 with the K2 at about 1 watt. As my XYL is a ham I
put the 706 in a different room, she listened and provided feedback on a HT.
It appears that even with the rigs on different power supplies (one on
battery) if they are close enough for you to control both they interact in
some way.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] Anderson Connectors ARES Standard

2004-06-28 Thread Rich Lentz
If California is different than the standard, then why is it the same as the
Rig Runner?  Also Isn't Aptos in CA?  Then why did he chose not to follow
the CA standard?  Also, why doesn't Rig Runner sell different versions for
CA? 

Now that you are thoroughly confused I think you will realize there is no
difference or different standard.


Rich,
KE0X



These are known as California Reverse Anderson Polarity compliant ARES
connectors (since CA chose to use ahem a different configuration for
Anderson Powerpoles for their ARES connectors, than had previously been
chosen -- and implemented many years earlier -- other ARES groups in other
states.  CA is bigger, and bigger aparently rules, I guess.)


-

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RE: [Elecraft] Software for Sig/Niose measurement

2004-06-20 Thread Rich Lentz
If you are questioning how to best adjust L34 - I.F. Amplifier Alignment
section of Alignment and Test Part II, I  used Spectrogram.  I had meant
to put this hint on  the reflector long ago and keep forgetting.

Follow the instructions for I.F. Amplifier Alignment.  When you get to the
last step plug the PC sound card into the Speaker Jack (not Headphone as it
attenuates some high frequencies).  You will notice some noise spread across
the spectrum displayed. Make sure the XFIL is set for FL-1 OP-1.  Now
continue to adjust L34 for a compromise of the lowest displayed noise and
the highest level of the tone.  You will find a point where the noise is
almost non existent. 

Even though I had adjusted this to what I thought was the best by ear,
after using this method and then re-adjusting the ARC threshold.  I was
amazed at the difference in sensitivity and audio level.  Maybe this is one
of the problems/reasons some people complain about low output volume.

Rich
KE0X 


Hi Folks,
Is there any soundcard software to assist in optimum tuning for 
best sig/noise on SSB, similar to a SINAD meter ?.
thanks
--  


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