Good Evening,
For those of you who have not heard of our little net let me give you
an introduction. We meet on two bands on Sunday afternoon and evening
depending upon where you live in North America. The NCS (me and a few
other) calls for check ins via the handy CQ method and works them
Greetings everyone,
My 13-year-old son got his ticket last week (KE7DMK) and is quickly
learning - and liking - CW. I built him a little memory keyer to
practice with, but he is in need of paddles to use with it.
If you have an old and/or spare pair of paddles that you would part
with free
Rick Commo wrote:
Could someone with an XG1 please measure the battery voltage with the board
switched off and then the board switched on> I need a reference point since
I have tried three batteries in mine and the yellow light always comes on.
My batteries were anywhere from 3.05 to 3.15 no loa
Rick,
3.13 off
3.03 on
Always a green light, d5, so far
Roger, WA7BOC
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rick Commo
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 8:24 PM
To: Elecraft-Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] XG1 battery voltage(s) reference needed
Co
Rick Commo wrote:
Could someone with an XG1 please measure the battery voltage with the board
switched off and then the board switched on> I need a reference point since
I have tried three batteries in mine and the yellow light always comes on.
My batteries were anywhere from 3.05 to 3.15 no lo
Just a question for the technically inclined group members:
How feasible or worth the effort, would be the addition of an option to the
K2 which would sample RF noise from a ferquency close to the used
band,(tunable?) which is devoid of signals, phase invert and reinject the
noise to an IF sta
Could someone with an XG1 please measure the battery voltage with the board
switched off and then the board switched on> I need a reference point since
I have tried three batteries in mine and the yellow light always comes on.
My batteries were anywhere from 3.05 to 3.15 no load, but dropped to 2.
I have a new K1-4 S/N 1910 just built for another individual who
changed his mind. So now someone
has the opportunity to buy new, built and tested Elecraft K1 at a
tremendous savings.
It's set up for 40-30-20 and 15 meters with metal shaft vfo and about
170 Khz tuning range.
Includes the interna
Wayne,
If there are no stripes - REMOVE nothing from either the diffuser or the LCD
display. The white tape/paper never should come off the backlight assembly.
After you finish all the soldering, and before putting the front panel on,
remove the thin clear plastic film from the front of the LCD.
OK!
I'm new at this. Ignore my previous message! I did a search of this list and
found the answers:
Leave everything on the LED and LCD alone! Check for a clear protective
coating at time of mounting the circuit to the front panel, per manual.
Right?
Wayne K9NE
K2 S/N 04858
___
I am building K2 04858 and have arrived at the display installation in the
front panel. I have a couple questions and am too impatient to wait for the
Elecraft gang to open up about noon [here] Monday so I turn to this group.
1. When does the kind of flimsy white tape/paper come off the diffuse
Thanks for all the replies. I have now found a microphone.
73,
Charlie, W0YG..>>
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Thanks, Don. Your diagnosis was correct. Voltages are now right and the
receiver hears for the first time. Thanks for being there with all of your
Elecraft knowledge!
73,
Dave
N7AF
- Original Message -
From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Cyberider" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
This past week I installed both the 60m & 160m modules as well as the NB
to my otherwise stock K2 (#4786). Initially I had a similar problem but
then reallized I hadn't formally completed all the steps for setting up
the 60m option. I hadn't set the menu for D19 = Y. After I did that
then I
I may have posted this twice not sure.
My Elecraft K2 4728 Has bothe the 169 and the 60 Meter Add on Module. 160 as
well as the rest of the radio works great at both High 100 watts and low, QRP
levels. But not on 60 Meters.
I can get the VCO voltage fine and yes the radio tunes 60 meters, bu
Dave,
You did anticipate my next question, and now I believe I can say that Q3 has
been somehow zapped since it appears to be conduction with a very low
voltage on the gate. Replace it with the 2N7000 that remains unmounted in
your K2 parts and request a replacement from Elecraft so you can fill
I hereby proudly anounce, that all German manuals for the T1 are ready. Of
course the errata is included in the German REV A manual :-)
This manuals are real manuals not only a piece of paper with a translation
to be used with the original manual. The layout is 1:1 page compatible to
the original
Thanks for the reply, Don.
D6 and D7 are oriented properly.
I am measuring 7.94 volts on the collector of Q1 and 7.15 volts on the
collector of Q2.
Anticipating your next question, on Q3 I am measuring: S=0 G=47mV D=51 mV.
D should be 8 volts according to the manual.
Tnx & 73,
Dave
N7AF
Look for http://www.communication-concepts.com
AN762 kit for 140 or 180 W
EB10 kit for 600W
On Sat, 2 Apr 2005 12:44:31 EST, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From Space Cadet To the Mother Ship (Elecraft):
I sure enjoy my K1, s/n #01453, and use it daily. However, there are
times
when I'm chasi
Dave,
It would appear from those readings that either you have D6 or D7 installed
backwards or that both the 8R and 8T voltage lines are active, and they
should be mutually exclusive.
First check the diode orientation against the Parts Placement Diagram in the
rear of your manual, and if these ar
>From Space Cadet To the Mother Ship (Elecraft):
I sure enjoy my K1, s/n #01453, and use it daily. However, there are times
when I'm chasing DX that I'd like to be able to switch in a 10 dB boost to my
output. Could we explore the feasibility of offering a kit amplifier for the
K1 (say a KPA-
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I have been asked by several how I arrived at the answer to the SLP
(silly ladde
I am not getting any significant signal input from the antenna and the loss
seems to be at D6. In trying to determine whether D6 is at fault, I'm
measuring 7.13 volts on the anode and 7.31 volts on the cathode. The manual
indicates they should be 8.0 and 7.5 volts respectively. On D7, I'm mea
i have experienced some whisker failures.
i have a bunch of printed info and articles on the subject.
Even some of the old Mil Spec parts 19500/35510 had tin plating.
Paul w0rw
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Hello all
What I did was to stick one of those double sided foam pads about 1 inch
square and 1mm thick the type you stick posters up with onto the bottom cover
then all I did was remove the backing of the pad that would be in contact with
L33 and stick a cut square of black electrical tape o
-Original Message-
Guys - Let's kill this thread now. It was dealt with and explained more than
a day ago via private email between us and we're all happy :-)
Must be a night for Long Delayed Echoes...
-
Wow, you have just experienced an LDE which is longer than anyone else
before you
Check this out, and hope that you used some solder with Pb in it!
http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/photos/
Mike
VK1KCK
K2#2599
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