RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Larry Stansifer
Jennifer,
You guys are about to make a very expensive decision so
let's see if the following might help you out.

1. Will this vehicle be your primary form of transportation?
*daily driver*

2. How large are the rear seat occupants? and are they still
growing?

3. Are you looking at new or pre-owned?

4. What is your price range?

5. Are you guys keepers or do you trade vehicles every
couple of years?


Regards


Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Jackson
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:16 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help
me out with.  My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
time for something newer.  We do a lot of camping and other
activities for which we fill up the interior space and add a
car top carrier.  The gas mileage for around town is killing
us though.  My thought has been to replace it with a car
that will hold our family of five, and then getting a
trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it.  Can a
car do this?  Do I need a tow package?  What questions am I
not thinking to ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions.  We
are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
window.  My husband is itching to get something else soon.


Jennifer




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread carl
what is this and whair can i buy it
- Original Message - 
From: Janet and Felix * [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 2:37 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language


 Felix and I talked about this.  I think this gadget is a GREAT idea!  I'm 
 a
 little scared of hammers because, being sighted set aside, I have whacked 
 my
 fingers, and it hurts.  Some sighted people are just clutzey.  Felix says 
 he
 just instinctively knows where to hit the nail after a few little test 
 taps.
  Okay then.  Not all of us are psychic like Felix is, right?  ha ha ha.

 I'd buy this gadget in a heartbeat.

 Peace,

 Janet

 Skype ID Bluesjanet

 http://skype.org
 talk to anyone, anywhere, free, forever

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread carl
maybee so but it still bluddy hurts when you walop your thumb
  - Original Message - 
  From: Don 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:03 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language


  Know problem Janet...Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Janet and Felix * 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 8:43 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

  I get it now, I am sorry. One must touch the nail as a reference for where 
  to hit it. And I don't have to because I'm sighted.

  You are right. It does seem to be a tool designed for sighted folks.

  Sorry I posted earlier.

  Still learning, Please don't be angry with me, Janet

  __
  With tax season right around the corner, make sure to follow these few 
  simple tips. 
  
http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Taxes/PreparationTips/PreparationTips.aspx?icid=HMFebtagline

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread carl
you need a to bar fitted and then if you have the power you can toe anything
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:15 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


  Hey Guys,

  I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help me out with. My 
family currently has a Suburban, but it is time for something newer. We do a 
lot of camping and other activities for which we fill up the interior space and 
add a car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing us though. My 
thought has been to replace it with a car that will hold our family of five, 
and then getting a trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a 
car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I not thinking to ask?

  I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We are still driving 
that Suburban with the busted out back window. My husband is itching to get 
something else soon.

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread John Schwery
Janet, take it easy.  I didn't notice anything wrong.
earlier, Janet and Felix *, wrote:

I get it now, I am sorry. One must touch the nail as a reference for where
to hit it. And I don't have to because I'm sighted.

You are right. It does seem to be a tool designed for sighted folks.

Sorry I posted earlier.

Still learning, Please don't be angry with me, Janet

__
With tax season right around the corner, make sure to follow these few
simple tips.
http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Taxes/PreparationTips/PreparationTips.aspx?icid=HMFebtaglinehttp://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Taxes/PreparationTips/PreparationTips.aspx?icid=HMFebtagline



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2/25/2007 3:16 PM

John


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
I don't understand enough,as I'm enjoying following this thread, but hope 
to ask:
Why 3 stringers?
Does one go in the middle?
Thanks


On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, rj wrote:

 If you like skip the risers or back kick plate and use just a couple of 
 decking boards for the threads. I think they are 1 1/8 x 6 inch. I like 
 screwing them down. Three screws per board.   This gives about  11 inch 
 thread. I screw the boards down tight against each other and the shrink to 
 about a 1/4 crack. These seem to hold up well with a little care.
 If you insist on a kick plate or riser,  a 1 by will do the trick. I hope 
 you have three stringers or Jacks.
 RJ

 P. S.  Let the threads hang over the stringers sides   about a inch or more.
  - Original Message -
  From: Larry Stansifer
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 9:31 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood


  Hi guys,
  I think it was R.J. who was so helpful regarding my question
  about steps. Well guess what... here we go with more because
  I don't want to */%^ the job up I have a couple more
  questions.
  The lumber-yard guy now has my jacks/stringers/side peaces
  cut. Do I need to tell him how thick my tread peaces are?
  What about those boards that back up the stair treads how do
  they fit? Do I nail, screw, glue or all of the above?
  Please understand gang this is all new to me and I am
  beginning to wish I had put a match to the whole mess.

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] static

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
Really? Thanks.
But as I think of humidifers I wonder how do we keep mold, or corrosion 
out of the system?
Of course we have tin ducts and I don't want moisture sitting in there, or 
blowing mold and other organisms all over the place.


On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, NLG wrote:

 You don't have enough moisture in the air.  A humidifier will help.  
 Preferably a hole house humidifier.  They make them that install in the 
 plenum of your forced air furnace.


  - Original Message -
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 04:45
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] static


  Hi,
  Dale mentioned there's been alot of static around here lately.
  Here too.
  What's up with that?
  I would love to know what causes a rise in static.
  We have a new furnace, andit is certainly more efficient, and things are
  dry. Dale, Max, Ray, Dan, anyone? Explain why we are getting shocks off of
  things and the clothes literally crackle upn removal.





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood

2007-02-27 Thread rj
Yes one goes in the middle and I found over the years there is less chance of 
the steps warping . 
Just my opinion
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood


  I don't understand enough,as I'm enjoying following this thread, but hope 
  to ask:
  Why 3 stringers?
  Does one go in the middle?
  Thanks

  On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, rj wrote:

   If you like skip the risers or back kick plate and use just a couple of 
decking boards for the threads. I think they are 1 1/8 x 6 inch. I like 
screwing them down. Three screws per board. This gives about 11 inch thread. I 
screw the boards down tight against each other and the shrink to about a 1/4 
crack. These seem to hold up well with a little care.
   If you insist on a kick plate or riser, a 1 by will do the trick. I hope 
you have three stringers or Jacks.
   RJ
  
   P. S. Let the threads hang over the stringers sides about a inch or more.
   - Original Message -
   From: Larry Stansifer
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 9:31 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood
  
  
   Hi guys,
   I think it was R.J. who was so helpful regarding my question
   about steps. Well guess what... here we go with more because
   I don't want to */%^ the job up I have a couple more
   questions.
   The lumber-yard guy now has my jacks/stringers/side peaces
   cut. Do I need to tell him how thick my tread peaces are?
   What about those boards that back up the stair treads how do
   they fit? Do I nail, screw, glue or all of the above?
   Please understand gang this is all new to me and I am
   beginning to wish I had put a match to the whole mess.
  
   Regards
  
   Larry Stansifer
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Michael Baldwin
Jennifer,
You can tow with a car, but most cars can't tow more then 2000 lbs.  All
cars have a GVW (gross Vehicle Weight), and it is not recommended to load
your car up or tow anything that will put the car over that weight.  For
towing long distances or in the mountains, it is best to stay under 80% of
the GVW.
My recommendation would be to go with a minivan.  My personal preference for
Minivans is the Chrysler town and Country, or the equivalent Dodge Caravan.
I would stay with 2001 or newer. the older ones had transmission problems,
mostly because people didn't use the right fluid in them, but that is a
different discussion.
Either one comes with an optional tow package, but if it does not come with
the tow package, it is no big deal.  A hitch and wiring can be had for less
then $200.00 and it took les then an hour to install.
Most minivans come with a roof rack, so using a top carrier won't be much of
a problem.
The town and Country, and the Caravan have the stow and go seating, so you
can store items under the floor when the seats are up.  very handy if you
have little ones traveling with you, keeps there toys out of the way until
they are needed.
The gas mileage on minivans is better then SUV's, but not as good as cars.
I think the Honda Odyssey has the best mpg of all minivans with a V6.
I would estimate the minivans have an average mpg rating of 20-25 on the
highway, and 17-22 in town.  Cars will have an average of about 5 mpg higher
then the minivan.  When towing or loaded heavy the mpg will drop with
anything.  Towing with my Mercury sable I was lucky to get 12-14 mpg on the
highway, and we normally got 28-30, on my town  Country towing drops the
mpg to about 16-18, and we get 20-22 with out towing.
No matter what you decide to get:
go with a v6, 4 cylinders can't haul as much, and generally don't last as
long.
Go with a 4 speed automatic, the over drive really helps the mpg on the
highway, do NOT use over drive when towing.
add an auxiliary transmission cooler if not equip.  
4 wheel anti lock brakes (ABS).
try to have the towing package already installed.  If you want to tow, make
sure you can get a hitch for the vehicle before you buy it, check out
www.etrailer.com or www.hitchfinder.com.
some manufacturers tow packages do not include the hitch.
make sure of the vehicle's GVW, and towing capacity.
Follow the heavy duty use maintenance schedule for the vehicle, when towing
or hauling heavy loads of people and supplies.  This is the schedule that
most people are wasting their money on 3000 or 3 months per oil change.
Well I hope this helps some.
Michael
 
 
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 23:16
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing



Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help me out with. My
family currently has a Suburban, but it is time for something newer. We do a
lot of camping and other activities for which we fill up the interior space
and add a car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing us
though. My thought has been to replace it with a car that will hold our
family of five, and then getting a trailer to tow with the other stuff when
we need it. Can a car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
not thinking to ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We are still driving
that Suburban with the busted out back window. My husband is itching to get
something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


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[BlindHandyMan] Texas woodworking

2007-02-27 Thread Mickey Fixsen
Hi list.

I have some specific questions regarding the Texas Commission for the Blind and 
whether or not they have a woodworking shop.  If anyone on the list can answer 
a few questions regarding this, please contact me off list.

Thanks--  Mickey
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[BlindHandyMan] the real world of woodworking

2007-02-27 Thread tunecollector
Measure with a micrometer.

Mark with chalk.

Cut with a chainsaw.



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[BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes

2007-02-27 Thread Lenny McHugh
Hi All,
My wife just purchased some plastic shoe boxes to store some of her shoes.
The fact that they are plastic I am wondering if she should have some moisture 
absorbing material or ventilation holes drilled in the sides. Any opinions?
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Trouble
You might want to look at mini vans. They can hold the whole family 
and then some. They also come with tow packages if needed.

At 12:15 AM 2/27/2007, you wrote:

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help me out 
with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is time for 
something newer. We do a lot of camping and other activities for 
which we fill up the interior space and add a car top carrier. The 
gas mileage for around town is killing us though. My thought has 
been to replace it with a car that will hold our family of five, and 
then getting a trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it. 
Can a car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I not 
thinking to ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We are still 
driving that Suburban with the busted out back window. My husband is 
itching to get something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Tim
trouble
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[BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Geno69
There has been some wonderful advice for towing trailers of any sort. Small
to large. Those to live in and those to haul items.
Along with what to look out for and have.
Might I add in here from the perspective of working with AAA, Emergency Road
Service.
A: what ever you get make sure it fits what you are pulling and can
successfully do the job.
B: Always remember to do the general maintenance on the car, wagon or sedan
or truck or van. The fluids clean and not old. Brakes, transmission and etc.
Along with the proper hook up of the trailer and the other attachments.
Along with making sure all lights work. 
C: Checking the condition of the tires!
D: The weight of the unit you are hauling and not over what is recommended.
E: If you are a AAA card holder the only thing that covers these sleeping
unit is AAA Plus/RV or the Premier AAA.
If the club offers the Premier and you are doing a long road trip. I'd
highly recommend the last program from AAA.
What ever your choices are make wise choice and have fun!!
Geno 27, February



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Boiler/Furnace

2007-02-27 Thread Dan Rossi
Just a note of information.  There are systems that use one unit for 
supplying both hot potable water, as well as hot water for heating the 
home.  The house I grew up in had this type of system.  There was a coil 
of Copper tube that ran through the boiler that supplied hot water for 
heat.  So, yes, combined units do exist.


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lawn Edges Are Put To The Test

2007-02-27 Thread Edward Przybylek
Hi all,

I absolutely hate doing anykind of yard work but I do like the 
appearance of a well edged lawn.  I remember, when I could still see, 
that a well-edged lawn always made a property look so much cleaner 
and appealing.  Has anyone ever used a gas-powered lawn edger with 
any real success?  Is there anykind of a technique one can use to 
edge along a sidewalk or driveway without damaging the edger by 
coming too close to the concrete or tar?  Any help greatly appreciated.

Take care,
Ed

At 03:29 PM 2/26/2007, you wrote:

Hi All
Lawn Edgers Are Put to the Test

A well-groomed, head-turning lawn calls for more than just freshly mowed
grass. Attention to detail goes a long way toward a lawn achieving a
great look
over a good look. Using an edger to clean up a lawn's perimeter
enhances its overall appeal and neatness, resulting in garden edges and
footpaths with
a crisp and clean appearance.

An edger is a different tool than a trimmer, although many
modern units do feature interchangeable trimming and edging attachments.
Whereas
a trimmer's cutting ability relies on a rapidly rotating string
positioned at the end of a shaft, edgers typically use a rigid rotating
blade to ensure
a straight, uniform cut. Although a trimmer can be used for edging
applications, the edges tend to look rather scruffy, whereas a dedicated
edging blade
is designed specifically to achieve a beautiful, immaculate appearance.

The first step to edging is thorough inspection of the area
to be edged, removing all sticks, stones, wires or other foreign
objects. Depending
on the edger model, blade height may then need to be adjusted.

Operating an edger is very similar to operating a trimmer. Generally
speaking, position the edger upright and perpendicular to the ground
and, while the
engine is running, pull the throttle trigger to activate blade rotation.
Allow the edger blades to reach maximum speed before lowering the
cutting head
into the lawn. This may take a second or two but will help ensure you
begin with a clean, smooth cut. With the blade at full speed, ease the
cutting head
downward. As the cutting action begins, push the unit slowly forward so
the blade cuts as you walk forward. If the blade jams or stops in the
ground, retract
the blade and begin again.

If cutting on a concrete edge such as a sidewalk or driveway, rest the
guide wheel of the cutting head on the hard edge of the surface you are
cutting against.
The guide wheel, a common feature of most dedicated edgers, helps guide
the edger along the sidewalk, assisting with directional control. As the
edger
is pushed with a slow walk forward, cut a swath that lines the edge of
the sidewalk. If grass growing over the concrete prevents seeing the
edge of the
sidewalk, tilt the edger slightly sideways so the blade tilts and kisses
the concrete edge, acting as a guide.

While edging, many models tend to kick back dirt and grass. A great deal
of this debris often hits the operator's feet and ankles, so it's
advisable to
wear some tough work boots while edging.

A variety of new edgers on the market offer a slew of new
bells and whistles. Some manufacturers offer multiple-use units with the
ability to
operate as both trimmer and edger, or even other lawn tools. In the
past, the drawbacks of some multi-use units have included increased tool
weight and
problems with balancing the edger perpendicular to the ground during
use. If a lot of edging is to be done, it may be wise to invest in a
single-use dedicated
edger for easier handling.

Nevertheless, new edger designs hit the market every year
featuring enhanced maneuverability, greater design efficiency and more.
 From the small
end of the equipment spectrum to the heavy-duty end, today's edgers come
in many models to meet an array of needs.

The YardStick

American Gardener's lightweight and compact YardStick cordless electric
trimmer/edger offers 24 volts of rechargeable power. The unit comes with
a wall-mount
charge rack to re-juice between jobs, comfortable grips and an
adjustable handle. As a trimmer the YardStick offers surprisingly
effective cutting power
for an electric tool, efficiently chopping away freestanding grass and
weeds.

This two-in-one system's edging action comes in the form of a tilted
string-trimmer head that doubles as the unit's plastic guide wheel. As
an edger, the
user twists the motor housing, which positions the cutting head
perpendicular to the earth rather than horizontal for trimming. Place
the guide wheel,
which is constructed into the plastic spindle head of the trimmer, along
the edge of a sidewalk and work the cutting string along the edge. For
edging,
this system's use of a string rather than a rigid blade may not be the
most clean-cutting method, but should suffice for small yards and garden

needs. Unlike most edgers, the design of the YardStick
requires the user to stand to the side of the edging path and move the
unit along laterally,
making directional control slightly more 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Jennifer Jackson
Larry,

This will be our primary vehicle.  I do not drive.  Our kids are all under 
eight, so they should fit in a regular back seat for several more years.  We 
are definitely looking at used, and I hope to keep the price down.

My husband would happily replace our Suburban with another just like it.  My 
thoughts are why spend $6000 to get another 15 year old vehicle.  We could do 
the repairs needed on this one, including replacing the air conditioner, for 
about $2000.  I think we should spend a little more and get something much 
newer and better with gas consumption.

How do I figure out how much weight I am wanting to tow?


Jennifer


  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 4:47 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


  Jennifer,
  You guys are about to make a very expensive decision so
  let's see if the following might help you out.

  1. Will this vehicle be your primary form of transportation?
  *daily driver*

  2. How large are the rear seat occupants? and are they still
  growing?

  3. Are you looking at new or pre-owned?

  4. What is your price range?

  5. Are you guys keepers or do you trade vehicles every
  couple of years?

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jennifer
  Jackson
  Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:16 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

  Hey Guys,

  I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help
  me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
  time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
  activities for which we fill up the interior space and add a
  car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing
  us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car
  that will hold our family of five, and then getting a
  trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a
  car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
  not thinking to ask?

  I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
  are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
  window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Car delemma

2007-02-27 Thread Jennifer Jackson
have you been talking to my husband? *smile*  He would be ecstatic about a bus.

Jennifer


  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 12:01 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Car delemma


  Jenefer
  How about finding a retired school bus at an auction?
  That way you would have a lot of room for camping in and you would have the
  added fun of turning that gem into a custom motor coach.



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Jennifer Jackson
Robert,

Thanks for the offer to help with the research.  I think if we go for the two 
car solution though, we will keep our Suburban and ad a car.

Jennifer

  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 11:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


  Yes you can tow a camper with a car but in general not really the best
  option.
  I will let some one more qualified handle that part of the question.
  Another option to consider if you have the room is to get a suitable car for
  the family that will be big enough yet give you good gas milage and also get
  a large conversion van. If you budget write this might work out good for
  you. You could consider a bit less budget for the car and leave a little
  budgeting room for the van. If you shop around you should be able to get a
  hell of a deal on an older van that has a good drive train with out spending
  a lot.
  With the price of gas going up the price of big vans are going down. If you
  consider this option I would not let high milage bother you too much. I will
  check my local listings for you to give you an example of what is out there,
  if you like.I am always looking at vehicle listings any way.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
  Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 11:16 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

  Hey Guys,

  I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help me out with. My
  family currently has a Suburban, but it is time for something newer. We do a
  lot of camping and other activities for which we fill up the interior space
  and add a car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing us
  though. My thought has been to replace it with a car that will hold our
  family of five, and then getting a trailer to tow with the other stuff when
  we need it. Can a car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
  not thinking to ask?

  I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We are still driving
  that Suburban with the busted out back window. My husband is itching to get
  something else soon.

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes

2007-02-27 Thread Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Lenny,
I'm sorry that I've forgotten where you live, but it probably isn't 
nearly as humid there as it is here in Hawaii. I have some of those 
boxes and store lots of different things in them and have not had a 
problem with moisture. However, if she has real leather shoes, it 
might be good to wrap them in tissue paper before storing.
Betsy
At 05:39 AM 2/27/2007, you wrote:

Hi All,
My wife just purchased some plastic shoe boxes to store some of her shoes.
The fact that they are plastic I am wondering if she should have 
some moisture absorbing material or ventilation holes drilled in the 
sides. Any opinions?
Lenny 
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Michael Baldwin
Jennifer,
One way you can figure out how much you haul when camping, etc. would be to
have your husband go weigh the Suburban at a commercial scale.  Then go
weigh it again after you and all your kids and supplies are in the suburban.
If the Suburban will be driven several miles between the weighings, I would
make sure it had a full tank of gas each time.  Take the difference, add
your husbands approximate weight.to that number, add the weight of your
trailer/camper.  If you don't have a trailer yet, go pick one out and make
sure it can carry the weight of your stuff.  Add the weight of the trailer
to the weight of all your people and stuff.  To the total I would add 10-15
percent just for good measure.
Use that weight, and add it to the weight of the car and make sure it does
not exceed the GVW of the vehicle, or exceed the towing capacity.
Michael
 
 
  _  

 
 
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:19
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing



Larry,

This will be our primary vehicle. I do not drive. Our kids are all under
eight, so they should fit in a regular back seat for several more years. We
are definitely looking at used, and I hope to keep the price down.

My husband would happily replace our Suburban with another just like it. My
thoughts are why spend $6000 to get another 15 year old vehicle. We could do
the repairs needed on this one, including replacing the air conditioner, for
about $2000. I think we should spend a little more and get something much
newer and better with gas consumption.

How do I figure out how much weight I am wanting to tow?

Jennifer

From: Larry Stansifer 
To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 4:47 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Jennifer,
You guys are about to make a very expensive decision so
let's see if the following might help you out.

1. Will this vehicle be your primary form of transportation?
*daily driver*

2. How large are the rear seat occupants? and are they still
growing?

3. Are you looking at new or pre-owned?

4. What is your price range?

5. Are you guys keepers or do you trade vehicles every
couple of years?

Regards

Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Jackson
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:16 PM
To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help
me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
activities for which we fill up the interior space and add a
car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing
us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car
that will hold our family of five, and then getting a
trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a
car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
not thinking to ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Larry Stansifer
Jennifer,

Any vehicle equipped with a towing package will clearly
define it's towing capacity in either the owners manual or
in the case of pick-up trucks and some SUV's it will be on a
tag located on the driver side door post.
First of all if you plan on doing any towing at all
please-please-please stay away from any vehicle with front
wheel drive. The added length, width and tongue weight of
the towed vehicle will make that thing handle like a drunk
Elephant on a mud bank. Back in the days of married we had a
96 dodge ram 1500 extended cab pickup with the factory
towing package and a 5.9 leter v8. the truck was rated with
a towing capacity of 7500LBS but it was all the poor thing
could do to pull our 24-FT 4800LB vacation trailer over
donner pass. I did several performance upgrades to the motor
and suspension but it still wasn't any fun on a long trip so
be very skeptical of towing specifications.
Fuel mileage is an extremely difficult call to make. My
feeling has always been error on the side of performance and
versatility. There is nothing worse than making a $12,000 or
$15,000.00 investment only to find out 6 months later it
won't do the job for you.
You folks might consider taking a look at either the four
door or extended cab styles of pickup trucks

Regards


Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:19 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


Larry,

This will be our primary vehicle.  I do not drive.  Our kids
are all under eight, so they should fit in a regular back
seat for several more years.  We are definitely looking at
used, and I hope to keep the price down.

My husband would happily replace our Suburban with another
just like it.  My thoughts are why spend $6000 to get
another 15 year old vehicle.  We could do the repairs needed
on this one, including replacing the air conditioner, for
about $2000.  I think we should spend a little more and get
something much newer and better with gas consumption.

How do I figure out how much weight I am wanting to tow?


Jennifer


  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 4:47 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


  Jennifer,
  You guys are about to make a very expensive decision so
  let's see if the following might help you out.

  1. Will this vehicle be your primary form of
transportation?
  *daily driver*

  2. How large are the rear seat occupants? and are they
still
  growing?

  3. Are you looking at new or pre-owned?

  4. What is your price range?

  5. Are you guys keepers or do you trade vehicles every
  couple of years?

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Jennifer
  Jackson
  Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:16 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

  Hey Guys,

  I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can
help
  me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
  time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
  activities for which we fill up the interior space and add
a
  car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is
killing
  us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car
  that will hold our family of five, and then getting a
  trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a
  car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
  not thinking to ask?

  I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
  are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
  window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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  email design.
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  ~- 

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  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Contributions
  From Various List Members At The Following address:
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  Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to:
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[Non-text 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Robert J. Moore
couple  more things  to consider is some thing like an s10 blazer or a GMC
Gymmy   or if you like some other brand That way you would have the lugsury
and room of a car and better milage than your big suberbin. Also you would
have a full truck frame  and rear weel drive which I think is much better
for towing.
I don't know about other models but I believe some if not all Dodge caravans
have a uni body construction which I don't think will stand up as well over
the long haul.

So what I might look for is some thing with a full frame, 5plus passenger
interior, preferably a 4 door, and rear wheel drive. From there you can
check out gas milage.
What I am really saying is there are much smaller versions of what you now
have and you won't need much cargo space since you can pull a pop up or just
a utility trailer for your stuff.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of carl
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:26 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

you need a to bar fitted and then if you have the power you can toe anything
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer Jackson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:15 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help me out with. My
family currently has a Suburban, but it is time for something newer. We do a
lot of camping and other activities for which we fill up the interior space
and add a car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing us
though. My thought has been to replace it with a car that will hold our
family of five, and then getting a trailer to tow with the other stuff when
we need it. Can a car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
not thinking to ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We are still driving
that Suburban with the busted out back window. My husband is itching to get
something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread Edward Przybylek
Hi all,

Has anyone ever used this thing?  Whenever I get 
done with any project requiring use of a hammer, 
my thumbs always wind up looking more like my big 
toes than thumbs.  For this very reason, I've 
begun looking at the electric powered nailer that 
someone wrote about in a previous post.  This 
thing would save me a great deal of money if it 
worked.  Any help greatly appreciated.

Take care,
Ed

At 11:32 AM 2/26/2007, you wrote:

A friend just sent me this information. I took a 
quick look at the site and they have some interesting items.
Lenny

Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language 
While Hammering. we talk about devices that no 
blind or visually impaired person should be 
without because they improve their lives in some way or another.
Well, if you work with wood or find yourself 
hammering nails into things often, I have 
another gadget for you. This one not only keeps 
you safe but prevents you from using the 
colorful language that often occurs when working 
with a hammer. The inventor of this intelligent 
gadget must have bruised his thumb many a times 
while using the hammer. He or she obviously got 
tired of this and created a device that will 
help you keep the hammer on the right target. 
The ThumbSaver was designed and tested by real 
tradesmen and lends a helping hand when driving 
nails, screws, fence staples, or just about any 
fastener. You can use ThumbSaver on nearly any 
job from fine trim or craft work to the largest 
framing jobs, building fences, decks or installing joist hangers.

A strong magnet is machined into the durable 
ergonomically designed aluminum shaft and 
finished off with a comfort grip. Just pull the 
tool out of your pack or tool belt, pick up a 
fastener with the magnet and drive the nail or 
screw! Once you use it you will know why it is 
called the ThumbSaver! The thumbSaver comes with 
two sizes: large is 7 Ā½ inches long with a 7/8 
inch grip. Mini is 6 inches long with a 5/8 inch grip.

Go to

www.Awesometools.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes

2007-02-27 Thread Lenny McHugh
Hey Betsy,
Thanks, I live in the North East Pa.  All that Karen wears is all leather. 
She will not wear manmade material shoes. I was worried about mildew. When 
she wears her shoes she lets them sit over night before putting away. The 
tissue paper is a very good idea.
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes


Lenny,
I'm sorry that I've forgotten where you live, but it probably isn't
nearly as humid there as it is here in Hawaii. I have some of those
boxes and store lots of different things in them and have not had a
problem with moisture. However, if she has real leather shoes, it
might be good to wrap them in tissue paper before storing.
Betsy
At 05:39 AM 2/27/2007, you wrote:

Hi All,
My wife just purchased some plastic shoe boxes to store some of her shoes.
The fact that they are plastic I am wondering if she should have
some moisture absorbing material or ventilation holes drilled in the
sides. Any opinions?
Lenny
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Larry Stansifer
None of the mini-van class vehicles are really appropriate
for any kind of towing.

Regards


Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert
J. Moore
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:58 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


couple  more things  to consider is some thing like an s10
blazer or a GMC
Gymmy   or if you like some other brand That way you would
have the lugsury
and room of a car and better milage than your big suberbin.
Also you would have a full truck frame  and rear weel drive
which I think is much better for towing. I don't know about
other models but I believe some if not all Dodge caravans
have a uni body construction which I don't think will stand
up as well over the long haul.

So what I might look for is some thing with a full frame,
5plus passenger interior, preferably a 4 door, and rear
wheel drive. From there you can check out gas milage. What I
am really saying is there are much smaller versions of what
you now have and you won't need much cargo space since you
can pull a pop up or just a utility trailer for your stuff.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of carl
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:26 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

you need a to bar fitted and then if you have the power you
can toe anything
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer Jackson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:15 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help
me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
activities for which we fill up the interior space and add a
car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing
us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car that
will hold our family of five, and then getting a trailer to
tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a car do this?
Do I need a tow package? What questions am I not thinking to
ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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For a 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Lenny McHugh
Larry,
Why?
I have a Grand Caravan Sport. It has automatic load levelers, all wheel 
drive and came equipped with a towing package.
I never towed anything with it. We sold our camping trailer many years ago.
Lenny

- Original Message - 
From: Larry Stansifer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


None of the mini-van class vehicles are really appropriate
for any kind of towing.

Regards


Larry Stansifer

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert
J. Moore
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:58 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


couple  more things  to consider is some thing like an s10
blazer or a GMC
Gymmy   or if you like some other brand That way you would
have the lugsury
and room of a car and better milage than your big suberbin.
Also you would have a full truck frame  and rear weel drive
which I think is much better for towing. I don't know about
other models but I believe some if not all Dodge caravans
have a uni body construction which I don't think will stand
up as well over the long haul.

So what I might look for is some thing with a full frame,
5plus passenger interior, preferably a 4 door, and rear
wheel drive. From there you can check out gas milage. What I
am really saying is there are much smaller versions of what
you now have and you won't need much cargo space since you
can pull a pop up or just a utility trailer for your stuff.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of carl
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:26 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

you need a to bar fitted and then if you have the power you
can toe anything
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer Jackson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:15 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help
me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
activities for which we fill up the interior space and add a
car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing
us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car that
will hold our family of five, and then getting a trailer to
tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a car do this?
Do I need a tow package? What questions am I not thinking to
ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Michael Baldwin
Victor,
Correct, Caravans and town  Countries did have transmission problems.
those were in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd generation minivans.  the 4th generation
minivan, 2001-2007, fortunately do not have the same problems.  Most of the
problems are caused by people going to the corner lube shop, and have
Dextrin put in the tranny to top it off.  Dextrin will toast the tranny in
very short time.  Jiffy Lube was well known for this.  Some places still do
not put in the correct fluid.  Chrysler ATF +4 is required, it might cost a
few pennies more, but the dealer is the only place to get true ATF +4.
Michael
 
  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Victor Gouveia
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 12:37
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing



The only problem I see with Michael's suggestion to go with a Caravan is 
that the Caravan is notorious for transmission failures sooner rather than 
later.

In fact, consumer reports has done an investigation and found that Dodge 
Caravans were 85% more likely to need a major transmission repair within the

first three years of ownership, as opposed to the average 5 to 8 years of 
their competitors, and 9 to 11 years with the Japanese imports.

I have known three Caravan's in my life, and each lived up to the consumer 
reports investigation.

I'm not saying that I took bad care of it, I could see at the time, was 
driving it on a regular basis, and I had it serviced on regular intervals, 
as per manufacturer's standards.

Either way, it might be worth looking into the report further, as I may be 
wrong on the numbers.

Victor Gouveia 



 


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread carl
lol and you endup bending the knail mor times than you acktualy get the knail in
  - Original Message - 
  From: Edward Przybylek 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language


  Hi all,

  Has anyone ever used this thing? Whenever I get 
  done with any project requiring use of a hammer, 
  my thumbs always wind up looking more like my big 
  toes than thumbs. For this very reason, I've 
  begun looking at the electric powered nailer that 
  someone wrote about in a previous post. This 
  thing would save me a great deal of money if it 
  worked. Any help greatly appreciated.

  Take care,
  Ed

  At 11:32 AM 2/26/2007, you wrote:

  A friend just sent me this information. I took a 
  quick look at the site and they have some interesting items.
  Lenny
  
  Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language 
  While Hammering. we talk about devices that no 
  blind or visually impaired person should be 
  without because they improve their lives in some way or another.
  Well, if you work with wood or find yourself 
  hammering nails into things often, I have 
  another gadget for you. This one not only keeps 
  you safe but prevents you from using the 
  colorful language that often occurs when working 
  with a hammer. The inventor of this intelligent 
  gadget must have bruised his thumb many a times 
  while using the hammer. He or she obviously got 
  tired of this and created a device that will 
  help you keep the hammer on the right target. 
  The ThumbSaver was designed and tested by real 
  tradesmen and lends a helping hand when driving 
  nails, screws, fence staples, or just about any 
  fastener. You can use ThumbSaver on nearly any 
  job from fine trim or craft work to the largest 
  framing jobs, building fences, decks or installing joist hangers.
  
  A strong magnet is machined into the durable 
  ergonomically designed aluminum shaft and 
  finished off with a comfort grip. Just pull the 
  tool out of your pack or tool belt, pick up a 
  fastener with the magnet and drive the nail or 
  screw! Once you use it you will know why it is 
  called the ThumbSaver! The thumbSaver comes with 
  two sizes: large is 7 Ā½ inches long with a 7/8 
  inch grip. Mini is 6 inches long with a 5/8 inch grip.
  
  Go to
  
  www.Awesometools.com
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Car delemma

2007-02-27 Thread Robert J. Moore
No but if you get a bus Let me know and my Wife and I can come out and help
you guys turn it into a luxury motor coach.
I am marginal as a handy man but between the four of us I think we could get
the job done. GRIN

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:20 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Car delemma

have you been talking to my husband? *smile* He would be ecstatic about a
bus.

Jennifer

- Original Message -
From: Robert J. Moore
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 12:01 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Car delemma

Jenefer
How about finding a retired school bus at an auction?
That way you would have a lot of room for camping in and you would have the
added fun of turning that gem into a custom motor coach.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Victor Gouveia
Hi Michael,

Thanks for the heads up.

My wife and I are looking at buying a new car, possibly a hybrid.  Not sure 
if the hybrid is sold in the Caravan version, but if it is, we're looking at 
getting one of those.

I like the caravans because they're safe, I mean, my business partner's van 
was in two roll-overs, and no, it was because of driver error, not anything 
the van did.  They're also easy to get into and out of, despite their 
legendary transmission problems.

I believe the new ones also offer stow and go seating, which in my case 
would come in beneficial.

Anyway, thanks again for the heads up on the out dated-ness of the report.

Victor 



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Robert J. Moore
I have to agree with every thing Larry said. And if you go with a full size
pick up with a crew cab you would not need a trailer unless you wanted a pop
up to camp in. the other two options I see there are use a topper to store
your camping supplies and keep them dry. The other option is to get a cab
over camper that you could stay in. and when not in use the camper could be
taken off the truck.
I think the cab over camper will kill your milage when on the truck but I
don't think there is a perfect salution here So just go down your list of
pros and cons and have fun with it.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:56 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Jennifer,

Any vehicle equipped with a towing package will clearly
define it's towing capacity in either the owners manual or
in the case of pick-up trucks and some SUV's it will be on a
tag located on the driver side door post.
First of all if you plan on doing any towing at all
please-please-please stay away from any vehicle with front
wheel drive. The added length, width and tongue weight of
the towed vehicle will make that thing handle like a drunk
Elephant on a mud bank. Back in the days of married we had a
96 dodge ram 1500 extended cab pickup with the factory
towing package and a 5.9 leter v8. the truck was rated with
a towing capacity of 7500LBS but it was all the poor thing
could do to pull our 24-FT 4800LB vacation trailer over
donner pass. I did several performance upgrades to the motor
and suspension but it still wasn't any fun on a long trip so
be very skeptical of towing specifications.
Fuel mileage is an extremely difficult call to make. My
feeling has always been error on the side of performance and
versatility. There is nothing worse than making a $12,000 or
$15,000.00 investment only to find out 6 months later it
won't do the job for you.
You folks might consider taking a look at either the four
door or extended cab styles of pickup trucks

Regards

Larry Stansifer

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:19 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Larry,

This will be our primary vehicle. I do not drive. Our kids
are all under eight, so they should fit in a regular back
seat for several more years. We are definitely looking at
used, and I hope to keep the price down.

My husband would happily replace our Suburban with another
just like it. My thoughts are why spend $6000 to get
another 15 year old vehicle. We could do the repairs needed
on this one, including replacing the air conditioner, for
about $2000. I think we should spend a little more and get
something much newer and better with gas consumption.

How do I figure out how much weight I am wanting to tow?

Jennifer

From: Larry Stansifer
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 4:47 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Jennifer,
You guys are about to make a very expensive decision so
let's see if the following might help you out.

1. Will this vehicle be your primary form of
transportation?
*daily driver*

2. How large are the rear seat occupants? and are they
still
growing?

3. Are you looking at new or pre-owned?

4. What is your price range?

5. Are you guys keepers or do you trade vehicles every
couple of years?

Regards

Larry Stansifer

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of
Jennifer
Jackson
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:16 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can
help
me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
activities for which we fill up the interior space and add
a
car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is
killing
us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car
that will hold our family of five, and then getting a
trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a
car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
not thinking to ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
~--
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[BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Robert J. Moore

Michael
Do the new Dodge mini vans have a full frame or a uni body? I could be wrong
but I think for towing a full frame  is much more durable and stable.




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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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[BlindHandyMan] Getting floored

2007-02-27 Thread Dan Rossi
Well, this weekend was the big weekend.  After more than a month of having 
our entire living room and dining room stuffed into the dining room, we 
finally took the big plunge.

The whole project started out with us purchasing the 3/4 inch thick, 2 1/4 
inch wide, pre-finished oak hard wood.  We stacked the ten boxes in the 
dining room.  Then emptied the entire living room.  I believe we took a 
trip up to Teresa's family that weekend and got the floor stapler and 
staples from Teresa's brother.  That was the first weekend.

The next weekend we sliced up the carpeting into 30 inch wide strips, 
rolled, tied and threw the bundles onto the front porch.  I ripped out the 
ceramic tile in front of the front door.  I pulled all the cables, 
speaker and coax, that I had run through the basement so that they would 
be in more convenient locations.  We found some scary looking old sheet 
linoleum under the carpeting.  That was weekend II.

After getting the linoleum and mastic tested for asbestos, negative, 
Teresa and I played hazmat team.  We sealed the living room off from the 
rest of the house.  We wore full plastic coveralls with booties, hoods, 
and gloves.  We put on dust masks that were rated for asbestos, and 
attacked the linoleum.  It came up in huge sheets and we broke it into 
more manageable sizes and slid the pieces into super heavy duty contractor 
bags.  Then sealed the bags and dumped them on the front porch.  Whatever 
the mastic and/or backing of the linoleum was, it made you itch like 
fiberglass and that is why we took the precautions.  We then used rags and 
scrapers and by wetting and scraping the wood we were able to scrape up 
the vast majority of backing and glue on the rough pine planks of the 
actual floor.  That was weekend C.

Weekend four we went winter back packing in the Laurel Highlands outside 
of Pittsburgh.  The snow shoeing was great.

Um, somewhere along the line I also spent several nights chiseling the 
tiles out of the floor of the fireplace, cutting off the old disconnected 
gas line, and chiseling off the plaster from the one wall of the fireplace 
to see what was behind it.  The right wall and back of the fire box 
definitely appears to be brick or stone, but the left wall sounded kind of 
hollow when you tapped on it.  It appears to be a piece of cement board 
that was plastered over.  I need to get a chimney sweep or other person of 
knowledge to tell me if that is fireproof enough or if I need to do 
something else to rate it for high heat, but not open flame.

I spent one evening laying in the first couple of pieces of floor board in 
preparation.  But, I didn't like the way it came out, it wasn't straight 
so I ripped it all out the next night.  Teresa and I spent quite a long 
time trying to figure out what straight means.  Are these two walls 
co-linear?  Does space time warp around my living room?  Anyway, we 
eventually bit the bullet and laid down those first five short courses 
that are inside the doorway between the living room and dining room.  I, 
not having a table saw, used my router to rip off the groove from the back 
edges of the first course of boards that would be near the wall in the 
living room.  I had to be careful since as you move along that wall, you 
get to the doorway opening, then to the right half of the wall.  So, I 
didn't want to rip the groove off of the part of the board that would be 
mating up with the last board in the doorway.  It actually all worked out 
perfectly.

This past Saturday we got working for real.  We spent a lot of time hand 
nailing the first couple of courses.  The very first course, we face 
nailed and tung nailed.  Then we tung nailed the next two courses.  Then 
it was time to break out the compressor and floor stapler.  At first 
Teresa was nailing and I was fitting and trimming boards.  However, I was 
holding up the operation trying to select and fit boards and make sure the 
seams weren't lining up.  Sightlings can do nearly everything faster and 
Teresa could just look at a few boards, and the next board position and 
grab the right one.  So, eventually I took the nailer and Teresa started 
fitting and trimming.  We cruised along pretty quickly.

I screwed up a few times with the nailer though.  The nailer digs into the 
leading edge of the board a bit and so you had to be very careful to slide 
the nailer forward first before lifting it or sliding it sideways.  If you 
lift it you tend to splinter the edge of the board a bit.  I did this in a 
few places but after getting yelled at, I got the clue.

We got about half way across the room before calling it an evening.

Sunday, we started up again.  The only hitch came when we got to the end 
of the fireplace.  The first board that extended past the edge of the 
fireplace now had nothing behind it so when I nailed it, it slightly 
twisted the board out of alignment.  We didn't notice this until the next 
course of boards went in.  We ripped out several 

[BlindHandyMan] The furnace, she is dead, not quite.

2007-02-27 Thread Dan Rossi
On Monday, while Teresa and I were cleaning up and putting the living room
back together after the great floor stapling, I noticed the furnace didn't
sound quite right.  After a bit of experimentation, I figured out that the
pilot was fine, the thermostat was fine, band I could hear the circulating
pump kick on, but no whoosh of gas and flame.  I shut the system down,
including the pilot and power, and then started everything up again.  No
joy.  I called the furnace guy and he was there in short order.  I knew
when I purchased the house that the furnace had some issues.  Well, it has
a lot of issues.  There was a down draft that used to blow out the pilot
all the time so they put in a chimney liner that was supposed to help
reduce the down draft.  Then they put in an igniter that constantly tries
to spark the pilot light.  Well, there is still a bit of a down draft which
occasionally causes the main flame of the burner to spread and roll out
from where it should be.  This cooked the gas valve and so I had to get a
new valve put in, 700 bucks.

Also, the chimney liner, which slows the draft causes a lot of condensation
to rain out of the chimney which is corroding parts of the furnace.  I am
sure the new gas valve will last a while, but the furnace is on it's way
out and so I am probably going to look into a wall mounted, side vented,
sealed combustion chamber, unit and have it installed in a new location
this summer.  I had been dreaming of this, but hadn't planned on spending
the five grand just yet.  Oh well.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored

2007-02-27 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Dan
Isn't home renovations lots of fun?
Ray
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 7:15 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored


 Well, this weekend was the big weekend.  After more than a month of having
 our entire living room and dining room stuffed into the dining room, we
 finally took the big plunge.

 The whole project started out with us purchasing the 3/4 inch thick, 2 1/4
 inch wide, pre-finished oak hard wood.  We stacked the ten boxes in the
 dining room.  Then emptied the entire living room.  I believe we took a
 trip up to Teresa's family that weekend and got the floor stapler and
 staples from Teresa's brother.  That was the first weekend.

 The next weekend we sliced up the carpeting into 30 inch wide strips,
 rolled, tied and threw the bundles onto the front porch.  I ripped out the
 ceramic tile in front of the front door.  I pulled all the cables,
 speaker and coax, that I had run through the basement so that they would
 be in more convenient locations.  We found some scary looking old sheet
 linoleum under the carpeting.  That was weekend II.

 After getting the linoleum and mastic tested for asbestos, negative,
 Teresa and I played hazmat team.  We sealed the living room off from the
 rest of the house.  We wore full plastic coveralls with booties, hoods,
 and gloves.  We put on dust masks that were rated for asbestos, and
 attacked the linoleum.  It came up in huge sheets and we broke it into
 more manageable sizes and slid the pieces into super heavy duty contractor
 bags.  Then sealed the bags and dumped them on the front porch.  Whatever
 the mastic and/or backing of the linoleum was, it made you itch like
 fiberglass and that is why we took the precautions.  We then used rags and
 scrapers and by wetting and scraping the wood we were able to scrape up
 the vast majority of backing and glue on the rough pine planks of the
 actual floor.  That was weekend C.

 Weekend four we went winter back packing in the Laurel Highlands outside
 of Pittsburgh.  The snow shoeing was great.

 Um, somewhere along the line I also spent several nights chiseling the
 tiles out of the floor of the fireplace, cutting off the old disconnected
 gas line, and chiseling off the plaster from the one wall of the fireplace
 to see what was behind it.  The right wall and back of the fire box
 definitely appears to be brick or stone, but the left wall sounded kind of
 hollow when you tapped on it.  It appears to be a piece of cement board
 that was plastered over.  I need to get a chimney sweep or other person of
 knowledge to tell me if that is fireproof enough or if I need to do
 something else to rate it for high heat, but not open flame.

 I spent one evening laying in the first couple of pieces of floor board in
 preparation.  But, I didn't like the way it came out, it wasn't straight
 so I ripped it all out the next night.  Teresa and I spent quite a long
 time trying to figure out what straight means.  Are these two walls
 co-linear?  Does space time warp around my living room?  Anyway, we
 eventually bit the bullet and laid down those first five short courses
 that are inside the doorway between the living room and dining room.  I,
 not having a table saw, used my router to rip off the groove from the back
 edges of the first course of boards that would be near the wall in the
 living room.  I had to be careful since as you move along that wall, you
 get to the doorway opening, then to the right half of the wall.  So, I
 didn't want to rip the groove off of the part of the board that would be
 mating up with the last board in the doorway.  It actually all worked out
 perfectly.

 This past Saturday we got working for real.  We spent a lot of time hand
 nailing the first couple of courses.  The very first course, we face
 nailed and tung nailed.  Then we tung nailed the next two courses.  Then
 it was time to break out the compressor and floor stapler.  At first
 Teresa was nailing and I was fitting and trimming boards.  However, I was
 holding up the operation trying to select and fit boards and make sure the
 seams weren't lining up.  Sightlings can do nearly everything faster and
 Teresa could just look at a few boards, and the next board position and
 grab the right one.  So, eventually I took the nailer and Teresa started
 fitting and trimming.  We cruised along pretty quickly.

 I screwed up a few times with the nailer though.  The nailer digs into the
 leading edge of the board a bit and so you had to be very careful to slide
 the nailer forward first before lifting it or sliding it sideways.  If you
 lift it you tend to splinter the edge of the board a bit.  I did this in a
 few places but after getting yelled at, I got the clue.

 We got about half way across the room before calling it an evening.

 Sunday, we started up again.  The only hitch came when we got to the end
 of the fireplace.  The 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] The furnace, she is dead, not quite.

2007-02-27 Thread Spero Pipakis
Dan,
 
What causes the down draft?  If that were eliminated, wouldn't the furnace
last longer?
 
Spero Pipakis
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:16 PM
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The furnace, she is dead, not quite.



On Monday, while Teresa and I were cleaning up and putting the living room
back together after the great floor stapling, I noticed the furnace didn't
sound quite right. After a bit of experimentation, I figured out that the
pilot was fine, the thermostat was fine, band I could hear the circulating
pump kick on, but no whoosh of gas and flame. I shut the system down,
including the pilot and power, and then started everything up again. No
joy. I called the furnace guy and he was there in short order. I knew
when I purchased the house that the furnace had some issues. Well, it has
a lot of issues. There was a down draft that used to blow out the pilot
all the time so they put in a chimney liner that was supposed to help
reduce the down draft. Then they put in an igniter that constantly tries
to spark the pilot light. Well, there is still a bit of a down draft which
occasionally causes the main flame of the burner to spread and roll out
from where it should be. This cooked the gas valve and so I had to get a
new valve put in, 700 bucks.

Also, the chimney liner, which slows the draft causes a lot of condensation
to rain out of the chimney which is corroding parts of the furnace. I am
sure the new gas valve will last a while, but the furnace is on it's way
out and so I am probably going to look into a wall mounted, side vented,
sealed combustion chamber, unit and have it installed in a new location
this summer. I had been dreaming of this, but hadn't planned on spending
the five grand just yet. Oh well.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081


 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored

2007-02-27 Thread David Ferrin
Dan my friend, could you be more descriptive as to what all you've been up 
to lately? You sure have been busting your back all right for sure.
David Ferrin
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:15 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored


Well, this weekend was the big weekend.  After more than a month of having
our entire living room and dining room stuffed into the dining room, we
finally took the big plunge.

The whole project started out with us purchasing the 3/4 inch thick, 2 1/4
inch wide, pre-finished oak hard wood.  We stacked the ten boxes in the
dining room.  Then emptied the entire living room.  I believe we took a
trip up to Teresa's family that weekend and got the floor stapler and
staples from Teresa's brother.  That was the first weekend.

The next weekend we sliced up the carpeting into 30 inch wide strips,
rolled, tied and threw the bundles onto the front porch.  I ripped out the
ceramic tile in front of the front door.  I pulled all the cables,
speaker and coax, that I had run through the basement so that they would
be in more convenient locations.  We found some scary looking old sheet
linoleum under the carpeting.  That was weekend II.

After getting the linoleum and mastic tested for asbestos, negative,
Teresa and I played hazmat team.  We sealed the living room off from the
rest of the house.  We wore full plastic coveralls with booties, hoods,
and gloves.  We put on dust masks that were rated for asbestos, and
attacked the linoleum.  It came up in huge sheets and we broke it into
more manageable sizes and slid the pieces into super heavy duty contractor
bags.  Then sealed the bags and dumped them on the front porch.  Whatever
the mastic and/or backing of the linoleum was, it made you itch like
fiberglass and that is why we took the precautions.  We then used rags and
scrapers and by wetting and scraping the wood we were able to scrape up
the vast majority of backing and glue on the rough pine planks of the
actual floor.  That was weekend C.

Weekend four we went winter back packing in the Laurel Highlands outside
of Pittsburgh.  The snow shoeing was great.

Um, somewhere along the line I also spent several nights chiseling the
tiles out of the floor of the fireplace, cutting off the old disconnected
gas line, and chiseling off the plaster from the one wall of the fireplace
to see what was behind it.  The right wall and back of the fire box
definitely appears to be brick or stone, but the left wall sounded kind of
hollow when you tapped on it.  It appears to be a piece of cement board
that was plastered over.  I need to get a chimney sweep or other person of
knowledge to tell me if that is fireproof enough or if I need to do
something else to rate it for high heat, but not open flame.

I spent one evening laying in the first couple of pieces of floor board in
preparation.  But, I didn't like the way it came out, it wasn't straight
so I ripped it all out the next night.  Teresa and I spent quite a long
time trying to figure out what straight means.  Are these two walls
co-linear?  Does space time warp around my living room?  Anyway, we
eventually bit the bullet and laid down those first five short courses
that are inside the doorway between the living room and dining room.  I,
not having a table saw, used my router to rip off the groove from the back
edges of the first course of boards that would be near the wall in the
living room.  I had to be careful since as you move along that wall, you
get to the doorway opening, then to the right half of the wall.  So, I
didn't want to rip the groove off of the part of the board that would be
mating up with the last board in the doorway.  It actually all worked out
perfectly.

This past Saturday we got working for real.  We spent a lot of time hand
nailing the first couple of courses.  The very first course, we face
nailed and tung nailed.  Then we tung nailed the next two courses.  Then
it was time to break out the compressor and floor stapler.  At first
Teresa was nailing and I was fitting and trimming boards.  However, I was
holding up the operation trying to select and fit boards and make sure the
seams weren't lining up.  Sightlings can do nearly everything faster and
Teresa could just look at a few boards, and the next board position and
grab the right one.  So, eventually I took the nailer and Teresa started
fitting and trimming.  We cruised along pretty quickly.

I screwed up a few times with the nailer though.  The nailer digs into the
leading edge of the board a bit and so you had to be very careful to slide
the nailer forward first before lifting it or sliding it sideways.  If you
lift it you tend to splinter the edge of the board a bit.  I did this in a
few places but after getting yelled at, I got the clue.

We got about half way across the room before calling it an evening.

Sunday, we started up again.  The only 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Larry Stansifer
First of all unless the vehicle was purpose built for towing
simply adding a hitch and a light kit will do nothing but
create long term problems for the suspension and drive
package. A purpose built vehicle has upgraded trans cooler,
in some cases an added oil cooler, additional engine cooling
capacity, onboard computer remapping capabilities so that
when you push the tow mode button on the dash it changes
many of the vehicle's performance characteristics.
You mentioned that your van is factory equipped and that is
a step in the right direction. A very good friend of mine
who lives in Montana has about the same setup on his
towncountry that you do. We decided to take his 14-ft
aluminum fishing boat to a lake in the mountains about 30
miles away from his home. The boat, motor, trailer, fishing
equipment, safety gear and beer cooler probably didn't way
1000LBS total. I know that the tongue weight was less than
150LBS Because I picked it up and set it on the hitch ball.
On the flats the van towed it ok with a few handling issues
going around curves. When we got into the mountains that
poor v6 was wrapped for all it was worth and we never saw
the top side of 45MPH. Coming back that evening we
encountered some wind and the boat and trailer were whipping
all over and the van didn't have the track,  wheelbase or
suspension to afford a lot of control. Thom told me that
this was the first time he had towed the boat with his van,
that usually he used his Jeep Liberty A full framed rear
wheel drive short wheelbased vehicle to tow with.
In the van's defense I will tell you  that it was a single
axel trailer and honestly I can't remember if it had it's
own dedicated set of brakes or not.

Regards


Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:46 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


Larry,
Why?
I have a Grand Caravan Sport. It has automatic load
levelers, all wheel 
drive and came equipped with a towing package.
I never towed anything with it. We sold our camping trailer
many years ago. Lenny

- Original Message - 
From: Larry Stansifer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


None of the mini-van class vehicles are really appropriate
for any kind of towing.

Regards


Larry Stansifer

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert
J. Moore
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:58 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


couple  more things  to consider is some thing like an s10
blazer or a GMC
Gymmy   or if you like some other brand That way you would
have the lugsury
and room of a car and better milage than your big suberbin.
Also you would have a full truck frame  and rear weel drive
which I think is much better for towing. I don't know about
other models but I believe some if not all Dodge caravans
have a uni body construction which I don't think will stand
up as well over the long haul.

So what I might look for is some thing with a full frame,
5plus passenger interior, preferably a 4 door, and rear
wheel drive. From there you can check out gas milage. What I
am really saying is there are much smaller versions of what
you now have and you won't need much cargo space since you
can pull a pop up or just a utility trailer for your stuff.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of carl
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:26 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

you need a to bar fitted and then if you have the power you
can toe anything
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer Jackson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:15 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can help
me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
activities for which we fill up the interior space and add a
car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is killing
us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car that
will hold our family of five, and then getting a trailer to
tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a car do this?
Do I need a tow package? What questions am I not thinking to
ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




RE: [BlindHandyMan] The furnace, she is dead, not quite.

2007-02-27 Thread Dan Rossi
Spero,

I think a new chimney would help with the down draft issue.  Not really 
sure that would be any cheaper than a new furnace though.  Besides, I 
really want a side vented furnace so I can move the unit toward the back 
of the house instead of the middle along one side.

don't tell Teresa but I've been down in the basement with a torche slowly 
cooking the gas valve. *Just kidding*


-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] static

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
I wish I had one hot air vent in front of which i could do this. I would.
Oh, and hahahaha I take my clothes off in front of a mirror.
(no!)


On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, Bill Gallik wrote:

 and the clothes literally crackle upon removal.

 I really can't say why your clothes are crackling upon removal, I suppose it
 may be something to do with whom you're with while removing them!

 Any way, the static increases during the winter because of a lack of
 moisture in the air.  If you find this intolerable -- or even just a bit
 annoying -- grab a pan, fill it aboutĀ¾ full with water and place near a
 source of heat (register, radiator, etc).  The water in the pan will
 evaporate and alleviate the dryness and the static.  Be sure to keep the pan
 filled with water, it doesn't need to be full but just make sure there is
 some water in it.
 
 Bill Gallik
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 - I can believe anything, provided that it is quite incredible.
 - Oscar Wilde




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored

2007-02-27 Thread Dan Rossi
david,

It was more my knees that were busted, although my back wasn't much b 
better.  Even with knee pads, it was still pretty rough.

the floor stapler is designed to be used while standing up, but I needed 
to feel where the seems were between the boards so I spent the whole day 
on my knees.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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[BlindHandyMan] Boiler/Furnace

2007-02-27 Thread Geno69
Dan said: The house I grew up in had this type of system.  There was a coil
of Copper tube that ran through the boiler that supplied hot water for heat.
So, yes, combined units do exist.
Thank-you Dan. I have a hard time visualizing and explaining this 15 to 16
year old system. That added in takes the warm air in the house and reheats
it, in the way it is set up.
The first sales person, was here from Pine State Plumbing and Heating. I
told him the situation. The first thing he noted the first thing was in
older homes, such as this 155 year old home. Those different heating units
were in. I said yes, first a coal stove and showed him the spot. Then
switched to monitor heating. Then removed and Electric was installed and
then removed and Forced hot-water was put in. He continued with that is why
you have what they call a circular plumbing system for the forced-hot-water
heating system. The fastest way and most in expensive way of installing,
then. So, then we went to the basement to take a look at the system. He
noted that the boiler was in good to very good shape for the age of, he
thought 14.5 years old. I said I've been here since November of 1993 and it
was there a year and half before. We got the age of the unit.
He noted there is things they can do to improve the system for heating. As,
I noted that when the Thermostat on the second floor is turned on it takes
away from the performance of the first floor. Other words if the heat on the
second floor is set at 68 and the one on the first floor is at 70, on the
really cold days. The up-stairs is at 68 and the first floor drops to 67 to
65 degrees. The next thing was the coil and he looked at that. So, the
bottom line was looking at rebuilding and up-dating the system. With a
hot-water 45 gallon tank in which the coil would be removed and more
reliable heat would be provided to having consisting hot water for personal
use in the home. He noted that this would improve and that your system took
the air from inside of the house and ran through the system again, like
paying twice. The newer systems bring cold air from outside and heating at a
faster level. So, then we talked about the new system. Which he agreed in
both cases to send to myself in a word document of the work, name of the
boiler and parts and all cost.
As, I noted that it would make much easier for myself to read. He had no
problem with doing that for myself.
The bottom line was, taking into consideration of Portland, ME. Prices seem
to be higher. Like our any taxes!
A firm price will come in the attachment but felt comfortable in the
attachment via E-mail.
That being rebuilding the present unit somewhere in the ball park of
$5,000.00 to no more than $6,000.00 and a brand new system Which I can't
remember the name. He said $10,000.00 to $11,000.00 and with this brand new
system it would be zoned for a hot-water 45 gallon tank, the boiler, two
radiators for the basement to keep at 65 degrees or choice I wanted it, for
the first floor and the second floor. That the piping going out side would
be PVC? Going outside one for the intake and the other for the out or was
all in one? Allot of information to remember. With a fine screen over so
nothing would get in except bugs if they dared. As, he noted the unit would
never be turned off because producing hot-water during the summer and heat
and hot water for the winter. He did not this was from Europe as their cost
of fuel and their development of a unit that is smaller and more efficient
because of the cost of fuel there. Also noted the new unit is 93% more
efficient. Compared to mine that is 80 to 85% efficient.
I was surprised at the size he was talking about the new unit. So, I would
like to share with someone on the list that has a lot of knowledge in
Natural gas boilers if possible when it comes in, here.
The second person is due here on Thursday.
As, no matter this is a serious investment.
Geno



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] What Causes Static Electricity

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
thank you everyone for your informative responses to my inquirey on 
static.
It is interesting how electrons can be rubbed off, and makes me wonder 
about friction and charges.

What is it about hair, combs, balloons, and clothings?
Why not a wood door? andwhy not plastics?

On Thu, 1 Mar 2007, Ray Boyce wrote:

 Hi Everyone
 Static electricity is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed
 against each other, like wool on plastic or the soles of your shoes on the
 carpet.
 The process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one material
 and relocated on the surface of the other material.

 Rubbing a balloon on a wool sweater
 creates charges on the surfaces

 The material that loses electrons ends up with an excess of positive (+)
 charges. The material that gains electrons ends up an excess of negative (-)
 charges
 on its surface.

 Electrons pulled from orbit

 The gain or loss of electrons can be explained by recalling that atoms
 consist of a nucleus of neutrons and positively charged protons, surrounded
 by negatively
 charged electrons. Normally, there is the same number of electrons as
 protons in each atom.

 But if some object pulls away electrons from their orbit or shell around the
 nucleus, that causes the atom to have a positive charge because it has more
 protons than electrons. Likewise, the other material will have extra
 electrons in its shell, giving the atoms a negative charge.

 Charges on surface

 Note that the charged atoms are on the surface of the material. Static
 electricity is different than regular electricity that flows through metal
 wires.
 Most of the time the materials involved in static electricity are
 nonconductors of electricity.

 If electrical charges build up on the outside of a metal, most of them will
 dissipate into the metal, similar to an electrical current.

 Prefers dry air

 When the air is humid, water molecules can collect on the surface of various
 materials. This can prevent the buildup of electrical charges. The reason
 has
 to do with the shape of the water molecule and its own electrical forces.

 Thus, static electricity is formed much better when the air is dry or the
 humidity is low.

 Force field causes attraction

 An object that has static electricity charges built up on its surface has an
 electrical force field coming from the surface. This field will mildly
 attract
 neutral objects or those with no charge. The field will strongly attract an
 object that has an opposite charge on its surface. From this we get the
 expression:
 Opposites attract.

 If two objects have the same charge, the electrical force field will cause
 those objects to push away from each other or repel.

 Attraction

 Rub a balloon on a wool sweater. The balloon collects negative electrical
 charges on its surface and the wool collects positive charges. You can then
 stick
 the balloon to the wall, which does not have an excess of either charge. The
 balloon will also stick to the wool, although the charges may jump back to
 the original material in a short time.

 You can also run a comb through your hair to charge the comb with static
 electricity. The comb can then be used to attract neutral pieces of tissue.

 Picking up tissue with a comb

 Repulsion

 Comb your hair on a dry day or after using a hair drier. The plastic comb
 collects negative charges from the hair, causing the hair to have an excess
 of
 positive charges. Since like charges repel, the hair strand will tend to
 push away from each other, causing the flyaway hair effect.

 Why sparks fly

 When two objects that have opposite charges get near each other, the
 electrical field pulls them together.

 What actually happens is that the negatively charged (-) electrons are
 attracted to the atoms in the other material that have an excess positive
 (+) charge.
 Things are much more stable if all the atoms have an equal number of (+) and
 (-) charges.

 Strong forces hold electrons

 The reason the electrons can't leave their present material is because of
 strong molecular forces that keep them where they are. If there are enough
 positive
 (+) charges attracting them, and the distance is not too great, some of the
 electrons will break loose and fly across the gap to the (+) side.

 Once it starts

 Once a few electrons start to move across the gap, they heat up the air,
 such that more and more will jump across the gap. This heats the air even
 more.
 It all happens very fast, and the air gets so hot that it glows for a short
 time. That is a spark.

 The same thing happens with lightning, except on a much larger scale, with
 higher voltages and current.

 Ben Franklin

 Ben Franklin proved that lightning was static electricity by flying a kite
 in a storm and detecting static electricity by seeing the hairs on the kite
 string
 stand on end and creating a spark with a metal key. This dangerous
 experiment showed that static electricity was being formed in the clouds by
 the rain.

 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored

2007-02-27 Thread Tom Fowle
Dan,
Wow, what a job! impressed once again!

I suggest making a full sized template out of cardboard or even poster board
or some such for that entry way.  If the template fits
the real world, and you cut the assembled boards to the template
maybe reality won't twist.

Tom



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] protect your language and clean up your thumb

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
I start with a short throw rapid strike that increases in force. The 
closer you are to the work theless you are likely to miss your natural 
ability.
If you can get a cup to your mouth, without seeing, you can have your 
brain tell your right hand where your left hand is. I am not saying you 
won't bang yourself sometimes, but it is a multi-layered solution.

i didn't follow the link posted, but I'm wondering if a spring loaded 
device couldn't be made.
it would be a gun and the action used would be the same in all ways, but 
the firing pin would extend down the barrel and end in a hammer head.
It would of course be similar to the double action type system.


On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, tunecollector wrote:

 When I had sight, I could hit the nail with sufficient accuracy and force.
 Because I could hit the nail with enough force, I could move my hand out of
 the way after the first blow.  Now I am more timid with my hammering so my
 hand has to hold the nail longer.  What used to take three or four strikes,
 now take sixteen.  The accuracy is still the same but the anxiety is
 greater.



 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
I have been known to use what I call a fist hammer which is a hammer 
that has only two or three inches of the handle left. First started as 
having broken the only hammer I took with me.
Then having success with that I kept it. Bought a new hammer.
The fist hammer is helpful when you can't afford to hit anything other 
than the nail. So would a counter sink driver, (forget the name of that 
thing) but trying to start a nail with that is annoying if not impossible.
You'll definitely use a shorter stroke and more force with a fist hammer.
Your angle will be right as you won't have the rest of the handle cuasing 
a flaw in your grip.


On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, Robert J. Moore wrote:

 Lenny
 So my suspitions were write about choking up on the hammer being a bad
 habit.
 Now my question about that is, with some practice, will I be any less likely
 to squarely hit the nail if I hold the hammer handle where I am supposed to?

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
 Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 2:53 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

 I have no idea who is more prone  to smash their fingers sighted or non
 sighted.
 According to the web site the tool is not made for the blind.
 I do remember something from my 8 grade wood shop teacher. Mr. Smith yelled
 at any student who choacked up on a hammer. There is a slight pitch on the
 hammer's head relative to the arc of the handle. When holding properly it
 will prevent the nail from bending because the head of the hammer will
 squarely hit the nail.
 If I had a dollar for every time I heard myself or someone else getting that
 lecture, I could purchase some new tools.
 Lenny
 - Original Message -
 From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 3:04 PM
 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language


 Lenny
 I do not do as much wood working or carpentry and such, as I would like to.
 Hence I don't use a hammer on a regular basis. Now this is a very honest
 question. Given a similar amount of experience, is a blind person more
 likely to have more difficulty hitting the nail than a sighted person.
 I always just thought that I had ahard  time driving a nail as well as I
 think I should be able to.
 Because of my lack of experience.
 So really it boils down to is driving a nail a  blindness issue. I figured
 since you know where the hammer is and you know where the nail is it  should
 not be a problem. Another way to put it is how much do sighted people rely
 on their sight to aim for the nail.
 I can drive a nail and get the job done but it is a bit of a chalange.
 I also have a bad habbit of choking up on the handle of the hammer. I think
 because in my mind I feel that there is less of a chance of the head of the
 hammer pivoting slightly to the left or rite and causing me to speak in my
 secondary language.
 Any feed back from those of you that use a hammer on a daily basis and had
 to go through the learning curve.

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
 Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:33 AM
 To: Handyman-Blind
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

 A friend just sent me this information. I took a quick look at the site and
 they have some interesting items.
 Lenny

 Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language While Hammering. we talk about
 devices that no blind or visually impaired person should be without because
 they improve their lives in some way or another.
 Well, if you work with wood or find yourself hammering nails into things
 often, I have another gadget for you. This one not only keeps you safe but
 prevents you from using the colorful language that often occurs when working
 with a hammer. The inventor of this intelligent gadget must have bruised his
 thumb many a times while using the hammer. He or she obviously got tired of
 this and created a device that will help you keep the hammer on the right
 target. The ThumbSaver was designed and tested by real tradesmen and lends a
 helping hand when driving nails, screws, fence staples, or just about any
 fastener. You can use ThumbSaver on nearly any job from fine trim or craft
 work to the largest framing jobs, building fences, decks or installing joist
 hangers.

 A strong magnet is machined into the durable ergonomically designed aluminum
 shaft and finished off with a comfort grip. Just pull the tool out of your
 pack or tool belt, pick up a fastener with the magnet and drive the nail or
 screw! Once you use it you will know why it is called the ThumbSaver! The
 thumbSaver comes with two sizes: large is 7 1/2 inches long with a 7/8 inch
 grip. Mini is 6 inches long with a 5/8 inch grip.

 Go to

 www.Awesometools.com

 [Non-text 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread Robert J. Moore
Can you find a fist hammer at any of the home improvement stores or are they
hard to find?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:29 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

I have been known to use what I call a fist hammer which is a hammer
that has only two or three inches of the handle left. First started as
having broken the only hammer I took with me.
Then having success with that I kept it. Bought a new hammer.
The fist hammer is helpful when you can't afford to hit anything other
than the nail. So would a counter sink driver, (forget the name of that
thing) but trying to start a nail with that is annoying if not impossible.
You'll definitely use a shorter stroke and more force with a fist hammer.
Your angle will be right as you won't have the rest of the handle cuasing
a flaw in your grip.

On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, Robert J. Moore wrote:

 Lenny
 So my suspitions were write about choking up on the hammer being a bad
 habit.
 Now my question about that is, with some practice, will I be any less
likely
 to squarely hit the nail if I hold the hammer handle where I am supposed
to?

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com  [mailto:
blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On
 Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
 Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 2:53 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

 I have no idea who is more prone to smash their fingers sighted or non
 sighted.
 According to the web site the tool is not made for the blind.
 I do remember something from my 8 grade wood shop teacher. Mr. Smith
yelled
 at any student who choacked up on a hammer. There is a slight pitch on the
 hammer's head relative to the arc of the handle. When holding properly it
 will prevent the nail from bending because the head of the hammer will
 squarely hit the nail.
 If I had a dollar for every time I heard myself or someone else getting
that
 lecture, I could purchase some new tools.
 Lenny
 - Original Message -
 From: Robert J. Moore  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:robertjmoore%40earthlink.net 
 To:  blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 3:04 PM
 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language


 Lenny
 I do not do as much wood working or carpentry and such, as I would like
to.
 Hence I don't use a hammer on a regular basis. Now this is a very honest
 question. Given a similar amount of experience, is a blind person more
 likely to have more difficulty hitting the nail than a sighted person.
 I always just thought that I had ahard time driving a nail as well as I
 think I should be able to.
 Because of my lack of experience.
 So really it boils down to is driving a nail a blindness issue. I figured
 since you know where the hammer is and you know where the nail is it
should
 not be a problem. Another way to put it is how much do sighted people rely
 on their sight to aim for the nail.
 I can drive a nail and get the job done but it is a bit of a chalange.
 I also have a bad habbit of choking up on the handle of the hammer. I
think
 because in my mind I feel that there is less of a chance of the head of
the
 hammer pivoting slightly to the left or rite and causing me to speak in my
 secondary language.
 Any feed back from those of you that use a hammer on a daily basis and had
 to go through the learning curve.

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com  [mailto:
blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On
 Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
 Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:33 AM
 To: Handyman-Blind
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

 A friend just sent me this information. I took a quick look at the site
and
 they have some interesting items.
 Lenny

 Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language While Hammering. we talk
about
 devices that no blind or visually impaired person should be without
because
 they improve their lives in some way or another.
 Well, if you work with wood or find yourself hammering nails into things
 often, I have another gadget for you. This one not only keeps you safe but
 prevents you from using the colorful language that often occurs when
working
 with a hammer. The inventor of this intelligent gadget must have bruised
his
 thumb many a times while using the hammer. He or she obviously got tired
of
 this and created a device that will help you keep the hammer on the right
 target. The ThumbSaver was designed and tested by real tradesmen and lends
a
 helping hand when driving nails, screws, fence staples, or just 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] What Causes Static Electricity

2007-02-27 Thread Max Robinson
Plastics do develop static charge.  Ever had those Styrofoam peanuts stick 
to your hands?

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] What Causes Static Electricity


 thank you everyone for your informative responses to my inquirey on
 static.
 It is interesting how electrons can be rubbed off, and makes me wonder
 about friction and charges.

 What is it about hair, combs, balloons, and clothings?
 Why not a wood door? andwhy not plastics?

 On Thu, 1 Mar 2007, Ray Boyce wrote:

 Hi Everyone
 Static electricity is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed
 against each other, like wool on plastic or the soles of your shoes on 
 the
 carpet.
 The process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one 
 material
 and relocated on the surface of the other material.

 Rubbing a balloon on a wool sweater
 creates charges on the surfaces

 The material that loses electrons ends up with an excess of positive (+)
 charges. The material that gains electrons ends up an excess of negative 
 (-)
 charges
 on its surface.

 Electrons pulled from orbit

 The gain or loss of electrons can be explained by recalling that atoms
 consist of a nucleus of neutrons and positively charged protons, 
 surrounded
 by negatively
 charged electrons. Normally, there is the same number of electrons as
 protons in each atom.

 But if some object pulls away electrons from their orbit or shell around 
 the
 nucleus, that causes the atom to have a positive charge because it has 
 more
 protons than electrons. Likewise, the other material will have extra
 electrons in its shell, giving the atoms a negative charge.

 Charges on surface

 Note that the charged atoms are on the surface of the material. Static
 electricity is different than regular electricity that flows through 
 metal
 wires.
 Most of the time the materials involved in static electricity are
 nonconductors of electricity.

 If electrical charges build up on the outside of a metal, most of them 
 will
 dissipate into the metal, similar to an electrical current.

 Prefers dry air

 When the air is humid, water molecules can collect on the surface of 
 various
 materials. This can prevent the buildup of electrical charges. The reason
 has
 to do with the shape of the water molecule and its own electrical forces.

 Thus, static electricity is formed much better when the air is dry or the
 humidity is low.

 Force field causes attraction

 An object that has static electricity charges built up on its surface has 
 an
 electrical force field coming from the surface. This field will mildly
 attract
 neutral objects or those with no charge. The field will strongly attract 
 an
 object that has an opposite charge on its surface. From this we get the
 expression:
 Opposites attract.

 If two objects have the same charge, the electrical force field will 
 cause
 those objects to push away from each other or repel.

 Attraction

 Rub a balloon on a wool sweater. The balloon collects negative electrical
 charges on its surface and the wool collects positive charges. You can 
 then
 stick
 the balloon to the wall, which does not have an excess of either charge. 
 The
 balloon will also stick to the wool, although the charges may jump back 
 to
 the original material in a short time.

 You can also run a comb through your hair to charge the comb with static
 electricity. The comb can then be used to attract neutral pieces of 
 tissue.

 Picking up tissue with a comb

 Repulsion

 Comb your hair on a dry day or after using a hair drier. The plastic comb
 collects negative charges from the hair, causing the hair to have an 
 excess
 of
 positive charges. Since like charges repel, the hair strand will tend to
 push away from each other, causing the flyaway hair effect.

 Why sparks fly

 When two objects that have opposite charges get near each other, the
 electrical field pulls them together.

 What actually happens is that the negatively charged (-) electrons are
 attracted to the atoms in the other material that have an excess positive
 (+) charge.
 Things are much more stable if all the atoms have an equal number of (+) 
 and
 (-) charges.

 Strong forces hold electrons

 The reason the electrons can't leave their present material is because of
 strong molecular forces that keep them where they are. If there are 
 enough
 positive
 (+) charges attracting them, and the distance is not too great, some of 
 the
 electrons will break loose and fly across the gap to the (+) side.

 Once it starts

 Once a few electrons start to move across the gap, they heat up the air,
 such that more and more 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
I knew a sighted guy who used to do a little drill before hammering. He'd 
start really really slowly tapping the hammer between his spread 
fingertips. He'd go slowly enough that he was in control and he'd build up 
speed till he was going as fast as he'd be hammering.
He said that doing that give him the hand eye coordination that he didn't 
have. He said he learn it with the C.B's in WWII.
He said the old guys he trained under used to do it with hatchetts during 
their training the new guys.


On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, Janet and Felix * wrote:

 Felix and I talked about this.  I think this gadget is a GREAT idea!  I'm a
 little scared of hammers because, being sighted set aside, I have whacked my
 fingers, and it hurts.  Some sighted people are just clutzey.  Felix says he
 just instinctively knows where to hit the nail after a few little test taps.
  Okay then.  Not all of us are psychic like Felix is, right?  ha ha ha.

 I'd buy this gadget in a heartbeat.

 Peace,

 Janet

 Skype ID Bluesjanet

 http://skype.org
 talk to anyone, anywhere, free, forever

 _
 Find what you need at prices youĀ’ll love. Compare products and save at MSNĀ®
 Shopping.
 http://shopping.msn.com/default/shp/?ptnrid=37,ptnrdata=24102tcode=T001MSN20A0701




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood

2007-02-27 Thread spiro
makes perfect sense


On Tue, 27 Feb 2007, rj wrote:

 Yes one goes in the middle and I found over the years there is less chance of 
 the steps warping .
 Just my opinion
 RJ
  - Original Message -
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood


  I don't understand enough,as I'm enjoying following this thread, but hope
  to ask:
  Why 3 stringers?
  Does one go in the middle?
  Thanks

  On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, rj wrote:

   If you like skip the risers or back kick plate and use just a couple of 
 decking boards for the threads. I think they are 1 1/8 x 6 inch. I like 
 screwing them down. Three screws per board. This gives about 11 inch thread. 
 I screw the boards down tight against each other and the shrink to about a 
 1/4 crack. These seem to hold up well with a little care.
   If you insist on a kick plate or riser, a 1 by will do the trick. I hope 
 you have three stringers or Jacks.
   RJ
  
   P. S. Let the threads hang over the stringers sides about a inch or more.
   - Original Message -
   From: Larry Stansifer
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 9:31 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood
  
  
   Hi guys,
   I think it was R.J. who was so helpful regarding my question
   about steps. Well guess what... here we go with more because
   I don't want to */%^ the job up I have a couple more
   questions.
   The lumber-yard guy now has my jacks/stringers/side peaces
   cut. Do I need to tell him how thick my tread peaces are?
   What about those boards that back up the stair treads how do
   they fit? Do I nail, screw, glue or all of the above?
   Please understand gang this is all new to me and I am
   beginning to wish I had put a match to the whole mess.
  
   Regards
  
   Larry Stansifer
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored

2007-02-27 Thread Donnie Parrett
Dan said:
I spent the whole day on my knees.

Scooter Says:
Hey Dan, as a Pastor, I really like hearing people say things like this.  You 
are okay in my book,
no matter what Boop says about you!  Or, Teresa either, for that matter!  Ha 
ha!  I hope you and
Teresa are having a great time together.  Talk to ya soon!



See ya,
Scooter



Contact me at:
Donnie Parrett
1956 Asa Flat Road
Annville, KY  40402
Home #  606-364-3321
Cell #  606-438-2557
Church #  606-364-PRAY
Email  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 4:03 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Getting floored


david,

It was more my knees that were busted, although my back wasn't much b
better.  Even with knee pads, it was still pretty rough.

the floor stapler is designed to be used while standing up, but I needed
to feel where the seems were between the boards so I spent the whole day
on my knees.

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Don
I  have heard the same thing about the transmissions,  We have owned three 
caravans,  all have been fine. know problem.   for what ever that is worth.   
one caravan, we even pulled a small trailer.  for what ever that is worth.  Don 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 12:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


  The only problem I see with Michael's suggestion to go with a Caravan is 
  that the Caravan is notorious for transmission failures sooner rather than 
  later.

  In fact, consumer reports has done an investigation and found that Dodge 
  Caravans were 85% more likely to need a major transmission repair within the 
  first three years of ownership, as opposed to the average 5 to 8 years of 
  their competitors, and 9 to 11 years with the Japanese imports.

  I have known three Caravan's in my life, and each lived up to the consumer 
  reports investigation.

  I'm not saying that I took bad care of it, I could see at the time, was 
  driving it on a regular basis, and I had it serviced on regular intervals, 
  as per manufacturer's standards.

  Either way, it might be worth looking into the report further, as I may be 
  wrong on the numbers.

  Victor Gouveia 



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes

2007-02-27 Thread Dale Leavens
I suppose it depends on if they are still steaming when she seals them into 
the boxes.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Handyman-Blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:39 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes


 Hi All,
 My wife just purchased some plastic shoe boxes to store some of her shoes.
 The fact that they are plastic I am wondering if she should have some 
 moisture absorbing material or ventilation holes drilled in the sides. Any 
 opinions?
 Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] The furnace, she is dead, not quite.

2007-02-27 Thread Dale Leavens
He probably needs to extend the chimney pipe a little higher. Still, a 
modern closed combustion unit will give more room, tighten up the air 
envelope of the living space and pay back in about as many years as the 
furnace will last I figure.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Spero Pipakis [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] The furnace, she is dead, not quite.


 Dan,

 What causes the down draft?  If that were eliminated, wouldn't the furnace
 last longer?

 Spero Pipakis
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
 Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:16 PM
 To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The furnace, she is dead, not quite.



 On Monday, while Teresa and I were cleaning up and putting the living room
 back together after the great floor stapling, I noticed the furnace didn't
 sound quite right. After a bit of experimentation, I figured out that the
 pilot was fine, the thermostat was fine, band I could hear the circulating
 pump kick on, but no whoosh of gas and flame. I shut the system down,
 including the pilot and power, and then started everything up again. No
 joy. I called the furnace guy and he was there in short order. I knew
 when I purchased the house that the furnace had some issues. Well, it has
 a lot of issues. There was a down draft that used to blow out the pilot
 all the time so they put in a chimney liner that was supposed to help
 reduce the down draft. Then they put in an igniter that constantly tries
 to spark the pilot light. Well, there is still a bit of a down draft which
 occasionally causes the main flame of the burner to spread and roll out
 from where it should be. This cooked the gas valve and so I had to get a
 new valve put in, 700 bucks.

 Also, the chimney liner, which slows the draft causes a lot of 
 condensation
 to rain out of the chimney which is corroding parts of the furnace. I am
 sure the new gas valve will last a while, but the furnace is on it's way
 out and so I am probably going to look into a wall mounted, side vented,
 sealed combustion chamber, unit and have it installed in a new location
 this summer. I had been dreaming of this, but hadn't planned on spending
 the five grand just yet. Oh well.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu cmu.edu
 Tel: (412) 268-9081






 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Michael Baldwin
Larry,
Purpose built for towing:
manufacturers know that minivans and other vehicles may be used for towing.
I guess that is why my TC has a tow capacity of 3800lbs and a CGVWR of
8600, and that is without the factory tow package.
The factory tow package does not increase this rating at all.  The tow
package from the factory just increases my payment.  I can put a hitch,light
kit, load leveling shocks, tranny and oil cooler on for a lot less then they
want.
The only difference in suspension between the factory tow ready and not is
the shocks.  The factory tow package gets you load leveling shocks, $100 for
the pair and I to now have load leveling shocks.  and much less then the
$400 each the dealer wants.
I am sure that most car makers do it the same way, just add parts to make a
tow package.  It would be to expensive for a car maker to have different
lines for the cars that get completely different parts for towing and not
towing.  Not to mention the risk and law suits if the weaker non tow part
was put on a vehicle purposely built for towing.
I do believe most tow packages are a dealer installed factory item.  So the
factory doesn't even know which ones will be towing and not.
 
bad towing:
 How much less then 150 LBS do you think the tongue weight was?  I ask
because too little weight on the tongue will have poor handling in corners
and make the tow vehicle and trailer pretty squirmy; the wind would only
enhance this bad setup.  75 lbs is the lowest you should ever go on the
tongue weight.  the other thing that will cause this is that the tow vehicle
and the trailer were not level, the hitch being too high.  This will cause
handling issues no matter if it is a Town  Country, or a F150. Or the third
thing is the weight was not distributed on the trailer properly.  The weight
should be split about 55% in front of the trailer axle and 45% behind.
From what you describe, I believe the tow vehicle had nothing to do with the
bad towing experience.
It is hard to say why the vehicle couldn't get up to 45 going up hill, he
might have had the 2.4 4 cylinder, or the 3.3 v6, and not the 3.8 v6.  Or
the trailer weighed more then you guestimated.  Or pushing a head wind.  All
issues that can effect any vehicle.
The Jeep Liberty actually has a uni-frame design.  Never seen one, but
sounds like it is a uni-body with additional supports.
Assuming he has never had problems towing with the Jeep, my guess is the TC
and the trailer were not level, causing the towing problems you experienced.
That small of a boat, I doubt it had its own brakes, but that only matters
for stopping.
 
It is not like Jennifer needs to haul around a 5000 lbs trailer, so what
ever you decide, Jennifer, should be just fine, like I said in a previous
post, make sure you and your family are comfortable above all else.
Michael
  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 14:40
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing



First of all unless the vehicle was purpose built for towing
simply adding a hitch and a light kit will do nothing but
create long term problems for the suspension and drive
package. A purpose built vehicle has upgraded trans cooler,
in some cases an added oil cooler, additional engine cooling
capacity, onboard computer remapping capabilities so that
when you push the tow mode button on the dash it changes
many of the vehicle's performance characteristics.
You mentioned that your van is factory equipped and that is
a step in the right direction. A very good friend of mine
who lives in Montana has about the same setup on his
towncountry that you do. We decided to take his 14-ft
aluminum fishing boat to a lake in the mountains about 30
miles away from his home. The boat, motor, trailer, fishing
equipment, safety gear and beer cooler probably didn't way
1000LBS total. I know that the tongue weight was less than
150LBS Because I picked it up and set it on the hitch ball.
On the flats the van towed it ok with a few handling issues
going around curves. When we got into the mountains that
poor v6 was wrapped for all it was worth and we never saw
the top side of 45MPH. Coming back that evening we
encountered some wind and the boat and trailer were whipping
all over and the van didn't have the track, wheelbase or
suspension to afford a lot of control. Thom told me that
this was the first time he had towed the boat with his van,
that usually he used his Jeep Liberty A full framed rear
wheel drive short wheelbased vehicle to tow with.
In the van's defense I will tell you that it was a single
axel trailer and honestly I can't remember if it had it's
own dedicated set of brakes or not.

Regards

Larry Stansifer 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Boiler/Furnace

2007-02-27 Thread Dale Leavens
Although that sounds a little expensive to me it also sounds like you are 
getting a high quality system witch will probably not cost you anything 
further for a long time.

Do we assume that he will be using the existing radiators and plumbing or is 
he intending to replace them with new?



Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Geno69 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 1:08 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Boiler/Furnace


 Dan said: The house I grew up in had this type of system.  There was a 
 coil
 of Copper tube that ran through the boiler that supplied hot water for 
 heat.
 So, yes, combined units do exist.
 Thank-you Dan. I have a hard time visualizing and explaining this 15 to 16
 year old system. That added in takes the warm air in the house and reheats
 it, in the way it is set up.
 The first sales person, was here from Pine State Plumbing and Heating. I
 told him the situation. The first thing he noted the first thing was in
 older homes, such as this 155 year old home. Those different heating units
 were in. I said yes, first a coal stove and showed him the spot. Then
 switched to monitor heating. Then removed and Electric was installed and
 then removed and Forced hot-water was put in. He continued with that is 
 why
 you have what they call a circular plumbing system for the 
 forced-hot-water
 heating system. The fastest way and most in expensive way of installing,
 then. So, then we went to the basement to take a look at the system. He
 noted that the boiler was in good to very good shape for the age of, he
 thought 14.5 years old. I said I've been here since November of 1993 and 
 it
 was there a year and half before. We got the age of the unit.
 He noted there is things they can do to improve the system for heating. 
 As,
 I noted that when the Thermostat on the second floor is turned on it takes
 away from the performance of the first floor. Other words if the heat on 
 the
 second floor is set at 68 and the one on the first floor is at 70, on the
 really cold days. The up-stairs is at 68 and the first floor drops to 67 
 to
 65 degrees. The next thing was the coil and he looked at that. So, the
 bottom line was looking at rebuilding and up-dating the system. With a
 hot-water 45 gallon tank in which the coil would be removed and more
 reliable heat would be provided to having consisting hot water for 
 personal
 use in the home. He noted that this would improve and that your system 
 took
 the air from inside of the house and ran through the system again, like
 paying twice. The newer systems bring cold air from outside and heating at 
 a
 faster level. So, then we talked about the new system. Which he agreed in
 both cases to send to myself in a word document of the work, name of the
 boiler and parts and all cost.
 As, I noted that it would make much easier for myself to read. He had no
 problem with doing that for myself.
 The bottom line was, taking into consideration of Portland, ME. Prices 
 seem
 to be higher. Like our any taxes!
 A firm price will come in the attachment but felt comfortable in the
 attachment via E-mail.
 That being rebuilding the present unit somewhere in the ball park of
 $5,000.00 to no more than $6,000.00 and a brand new system Which I can't
 remember the name. He said $10,000.00 to $11,000.00 and with this brand 
 new
 system it would be zoned for a hot-water 45 gallon tank, the boiler, two
 radiators for the basement to keep at 65 degrees or choice I wanted it, 
 for
 the first floor and the second floor. That the piping going out side would
 be PVC? Going outside one for the intake and the other for the out or was
 all in one? Allot of information to remember. With a fine screen over so
 nothing would get in except bugs if they dared. As, he noted the unit 
 would
 never be turned off because producing hot-water during the summer and heat
 and hot water for the winter. He did not this was from Europe as their 
 cost
 of fuel and their development of a unit that is smaller and more efficient
 because of the cost of fuel there. Also noted the new unit is 93% more
 efficient. Compared to mine that is 80 to 85% efficient.
 I was surprised at the size he was talking about the new unit. So, I would
 like to share with someone on the list that has a lot of knowledge in
 Natural gas boilers if possible when it comes in, here.
 The second person is due here on Thursday.
 As, no matter this is a serious investment.
 Geno




 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] Is Your, Fork Faulty

2007-02-27 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi Everyone, 
Mirraco Recalls Bicycles Due to Wheel Fork Failure Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in
cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary
recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using
recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.
Name of product: Mirraco Bicycles

Units: About 11,000

Manufacturer: Mirraco LLC, of Carlsbad, Calif.

Hazard: The front wheel forks on these bicycles could have been welded
improperly. This poses a risk that the weld could fail, and the rider
could lose control and fall.

Incidents/Injuries: The firm has received four reports of steer tube
rotation and one report of a fork separation due to failure of the
welds. No injuries have been reported.

Description: The recall involves BMX bicycles. The model name is printed
on the bicycle. Recalled models include the following:

Mirraco Models

Blend 3
Blend 2
Blend 1
Blend 1s
Blend 16
Black Pearl 3
Black Pearl 2
Black Pearl 1
Fivestar Park
Icon Moto
Icon 20Forty

Sold at: Authorized Mirraco dealers nationwide from November 2006
through January 2007 for between $265 and $550.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should stop using the bicycles immediately and have
them inspected by a Mirraco dealer. If the inspection shows that the
bicycle is part of the recall, the fork will be replaced free of charge.

Consumer Contact: Call Mirraco toll-free at (888) 431-7653 between 8
a.m. and 6 p.m. CT Monday through Friday or on Saturday between 9 a.m.
and 5 p.m. CT, or visit the firm's Web site at
www.mirrabikeco.com
 Product Recall


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes

2007-02-27 Thread Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
Lenny,
If the shoe boxes are actually airtight, she might want to also put a 
piece of charcoal in each box. It gathers moisture. There are other 
things that she could buy, but charcoal is cheap and works well.
Betsy
At 08:29 AM 2/27/2007, you wrote:

Hey Betsy,
Thanks, I live in the North East Pa. All that Karen wears is all leather.
She will not wear manmade material shoes. I was worried about mildew. When
she wears her shoes she lets them sit over night before putting away. The
tissue paper is a very good idea.
Lenny 
http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press 
mailto:brailleit%40hawaii.rr.com[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] plastic shoe boxes

Lenny,
I'm sorry that I've forgotten where you live, but it probably isn't
nearly as humid there as it is here in Hawaii. I have some of those
boxes and store lots of different things in them and have not had a
problem with moisture. However, if she has real leather shoes, it
might be good to wrap them in tissue paper before storing.
Betsy
At 05:39 AM 2/27/2007, you wrote:

 Hi All,
 My wife just purchased some plastic shoe boxes to store some of her shoes.
 The fact that they are plastic I am wondering if she should have
 some moisture absorbing material or ventilation holes drilled in the
 sides. Any opinions?
 Lenny
 http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/http://www.geocities.com/l 
 enny_mchugh/http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
 
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Christian Shinaberger
If you are really going to get a truck and tow get a diesel.
At 09:55 AM 2/27/2007, you wrote:

Jennifer,

Any vehicle equipped with a towing package will clearly
define it's towing capacity in either the owners manual or
in the case of pick-up trucks and some SUV's it will be on a
tag located on the driver side door post.
First of all if you plan on doing any towing at all
please-please-please stay away from any vehicle with front
wheel drive. The added length, width and tongue weight of
the towed vehicle will make that thing handle like a drunk
Elephant on a mud bank. Back in the days of married we had a
96 dodge ram 1500 extended cab pickup with the factory
towing package and a 5.9 leter v8. the truck was rated with
a towing capacity of 7500LBS but it was all the poor thing
could do to pull our 24-FT 4800LB vacation trailer over
donner pass. I did several performance upgrades to the motor
and suspension but it still wasn't any fun on a long trip so
be very skeptical of towing specifications.
Fuel mileage is an extremely difficult call to make. My
feeling has always been error on the side of performance and
versatility. There is nothing worse than making a $12,000 or
$15,000.00 investment only to find out 6 months later it
won't do the job for you.
You folks might consider taking a look at either the four
door or extended cab styles of pickup trucks

Regards

Larry Stansifer

-Original Message-
From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:19 AM
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Larry,

This will be our primary vehicle. I do not drive. Our kids
are all under eight, so they should fit in a regular back
seat for several more years. We are definitely looking at
used, and I hope to keep the price down.

My husband would happily replace our Suburban with another
just like it. My thoughts are why spend $6000 to get
another 15 year old vehicle. We could do the repairs needed
on this one, including replacing the air conditioner, for
about $2000. I think we should spend a little more and get
something much newer and better with gas consumption.

How do I figure out how much weight I am wanting to tow?

Jennifer

From: Larry Stansifer
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 4:47 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Jennifer,
You guys are about to make a very expensive decision so
let's see if the following might help you out.

1. Will this vehicle be your primary form of
transportation?
*daily driver*

2. How large are the rear seat occupants? and are they
still
growing?

3. Are you looking at new or pre-owned?

4. What is your price range?

5. Are you guys keepers or do you trade vehicles every
couple of years?

Regards

Larry Stansifer

-Original Message-
From: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Jennifer
Jackson
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 10:16 PM
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

Hey Guys,

I am having a car dilemma that I sure hope you guys can
help
me out with. My family currently has a Suburban, but it is
time for something newer. We do a lot of camping and other
activities for which we fill up the interior space and add
a
car top carrier. The gas mileage for around town is
killing
us though. My thought has been to replace it with a car
that will hold our family of five, and then getting a
trailer to tow with the other stuff when we need it. Can a
car do this? Do I need a tow package? What questions am I
not thinking to ask?

I look forward to your answer and possible suggestions. We
are still driving that Suburban with the busted out back
window. My husband is itching to get something else soon.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[BlindHandyMan] diesels for towing

2007-02-27 Thread clifford
Dear List members:
I just came in on the end of this topic, so I may be repeating points 
discussed earlier.
My son is in the land-scaping business and pulls trailers all of the time.  
He has a f350 powerstroke diesel, and it has the ability to tow and haul loads 
at the same time.  Diesels have much higher torque than most gasoline engines, 
so the towing ability is much greater.  
If you are looking for a vehicle which can tow and also keep passengers in 
the dry, I would suggest the Ford Excursion with a diesel engine.  These 
vehicles are no longer in production, but late models are available on the used 
market.  Another suggestion would be the crewcab pickup trucks equipped with a 
diesel engine.  The latest batch of these diesels have torque figures above 650 
pounds.  They also provide excellent fuel mileage, when compared to gasoline 
engine equipped models.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] Boiler/Furnace

2007-02-27 Thread Geno69
Dale,
You noted: Although that sounds a little expensive to me it also sounds
like you are getting a high quality system witch will probably not cost you
anything further for a long time. Do we assume that he will be using the
existing radiators and plumbing or is he intending to replace them with
new?
Dale, the only thing is going to be new, If, I go with the brand complete
new system as noted for the price. It will be The existing baseboard forced
hot-water system in place now on the first floor and the second floor. What
is going to be new is in the basement. That being two radiators to heat the
basement and the zone and thermostat to control them. A hot-water 45 gallon
tank for personal use and it's own zone and control. The new boiler and all
that involves. Referring to replumbing it all from what it is now and the
venting. Along with the testing of filling the lines with water and making
sure all the air bubbles are out of the baseboard lines and that the
thermostat in the first floor and second floor are working correctly. He
noted that this unit is much smaller and that it will take up a lot less
space and something about a panel with clear distinct markers on controls
for the unit. Unlike the one that is here now. Exhaust box that is on the
outside, that  I remove the cover and oil the motor once every six months.
Which, is a simple thing with the bottle you by and it's narrow nose that
slides out of the bottle and insert into the two different holes. Anyway,
the new system only would have PCV piping for vent and new air coming in
from the outside. 
Hope I said, It all right. Once I get the document. Dale I'll forward it to
you and you can take a look.
I just got off the phone with my brother-in-law, that does plumbing and
heating in the south. He knew what I was talking about, but, had no
knowledge of this new European heating system. Though, knew they have been
around for the last 6 years in the US, and, have heard good things about
them. He too thought a lot of money and wondered if union and labor for the
price, too.
Geno 27, February at: 8:46 PM



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[BlindHandyMan] Replacing Tie Rod Ends

2007-02-27 Thread Ray Boyce
Hi All
Replacing Tie-Rod Ends

Steering and brakes are two vehicular systems that are often best left to 
professional mechanics to diagnose and repair. However, certain 
routine-maintenance
procedures in these areas don't require any special knowledge or skill.

Tie-rod ends are steering-system components that can often be easily 
replaced by the average-skilled car owner. The only non-standard tool 
necessary for
the job is a puller: either a special tie-rod-end puller or a two-jaw unit. 
(The necessary puller can often be borrowed or rented from your local 
auto-parts
store.)

Installation Tips

. Refer to a service manual for fastener torque specifications and for any 
procedures that are unique to your vehicle.

. Unlock the steering wheel before jacking up the vehicle. This allows the 
steering linkage to be moved for the best possible access to the ends' 
fasteners
by grabbing one of the axle hubs (especially on front-wheel-drive cars such 
as the one shown here).

. Secure the vehicle on jackstands before removing the wheels.

. Buy name-brand tie-rod ends. Saving a few dollars on cheaply made parts 
isn't worth the risk.

. Mark the tie-rod ends' positions on their threaded adjusters before 
removing the old ends. This way, the new ends can be screwed in to 
approximately the
same position as the old ones to get wheel alignment in the ballpark.

. Have the vehicle professionally aligned afterward, especially if the 
steering wheel isn't centered or the vehicle pulls one direction when 
attempting
to drive straight.

Signs of Failure

. Front-end shimmy, shake or vibration.

. Abnormal front-end noise.

. Hard steering.

. Steering wheel doesn't return to center properly.

. Vehicle wanders.

. Steering feels unstable, loose or has excessive play.


Step 1 Always buy name-brand tie-rod ends. Also beware that each side is 
threaded differently, so the part numbers should be different. Ask the parts 
person
to label left and right.


Step 2 With the vehicle raised, secured, and its front wheels removed, begin 
the tie-rod-end job by loosening the pinch bolt on the end itself or on the
adjuster sleeve (depending on end style).


Step 3 Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the old end.


Step 4 Use a 2-jaw or tie-rod puller (shown) to disconnect the end.


Step 5 Before unscrewing the old ends, mark their positions so the new ones 
can be installed in roughly the same positions. Install the grease fittings
into the new ends, if applicable.


Step 6 Install the new rubber boots on the replacement tie-rod ends and then 
reverse the disassembly procedure. Always use the new hardware and cotter 
pins
that come with the replacement ends and torque all fasteners to factory 
spec.


Step 7 Lube the new ends until the grease seeps from behind the boots. Then 
wipe off any excess external grease.



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing

2007-02-27 Thread Timothy Ford
And of course things can vary.  I have both a Dodge Grand Caravan and a Honda 
Odyssey mini van.  Both have around 75,000 miles; the Dodge is a 2002, and the 
Odyssey is a 2001.  I just had to get a new transmission for ... the Honda.  
The good news is that Honda covered the entire cost under a special warranty 
for that model year.  

  - Original Message - 
  From: Don 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


  I  have heard the same thing about the transmissions,  We have owned three 
caravans,  all have been fine. know problem.   for what ever that is worth.   
one caravan, we even pulled a small trailer.  for what ever that is worth.  Don 
- Original Message - 
From: Victor Gouveia 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cars and towing


The only problem I see with Michael's suggestion to go with a Caravan is 
that the Caravan is notorious for transmission failures sooner rather than 
later.

In fact, consumer reports has done an investigation and found that Dodge 
Caravans were 85% more likely to need a major transmission repair within 
the 
first three years of ownership, as opposed to the average 5 to 8 years of 
their competitors, and 9 to 11 years with the Japanese imports.

I have known three Caravan's in my life, and each lived up to the consumer 
reports investigation.

I'm not saying that I took bad care of it, I could see at the time, was 
driving it on a regular basis, and I had it serviced on regular intervals, 
as per manufacturer's standards.

Either way, it might be worth looking into the report further, as I may be 
wrong on the numbers.

Victor Gouveia 



 

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[BlindHandyMan] ODT Info Needed

2007-02-27 Thread Edward Przybylek
Hi all,

I need some information about an ODT (I think that's the 
acronym).  What I'm asking about is one of those diagnostic computers 
for an automobile.  I'm buying the unit for my son so accessibility 
is not an issue.  My understanding is that there are units for 
certain model years and there are also universal models.  My son 
drives a 97 Pontiac Bonniville so I'm interested in a universal 
model.  He probably won't be driving it more than another year or two 
and I'd like the unit to work on whatever vehicle he buys next.  If 
you've used or know of a really good universal unit, I'd greatly 
appreciate hearing about it.  Thanks.

Take care,
Ed



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