Re: Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay

[Paul Eugenio via CnC-List]

Hi,


An email came out from Practical Sailor yesterday with a link pointing a 
discussion on “The DIY Solent Stay or Inner Forestay”


Here is the link:

http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/The-DIY-Solent-Stay-or-Inner-Forestay-11840-1.html?ET=practicalsailor:e30620:117607a:=email=p_waypoints101415



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com 


> On Oct 14, 2015, at 11:01 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> On Oct 14, 2015, at 6:35 PM, corralmaduzi via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Hi there sailors,
> I've eventually become the proud owner of a C 40 and would like to know who 
> has fitted a Solent-stay and if they could share the info on how to go about 
> it.It will be for cruising and used either for going up-wind with a smaller 
> Genoa or a storm-jib when necessary. I would appreciate any info.
> Thanks. 
> Saltyspearo.
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9305T on the Telstra 4G network
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All,

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant
should I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? Mixing?

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

OK upon reading  the several responses; if Stanadyne is the manufacturers 
recommendation, and others like Seafoam or Biobor; my question is; are these 
products mutually exclusive? Or can they be mixed together? Should one red over 
the other? Thanks...
 

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Paul Baker via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Paul Baker 
Sent: Thu, Oct 15, 2015 1:27 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?



I get seafoam at Lordco.



Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 19:17:57 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: russ...@telus.net


Seafoam reminds me of the Marvel Mystery Oil claims. I can't find MMO 
atCanadian tire any more, used it in the A4 (oil & gas)regularly.

Cheers,Russ
Sweet35 mk-1

At 06:47 PM 13/10/2015, you wrote:

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys arefamiliar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I'vealways used it as an additive for gasoline engines - 
boat fuel, mowerfuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of it 
as a betteralternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added itto 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-Listwrote:


Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years thatlooks 
better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel andengine oil.  It's 
inexpensive and seems to make starting mucheasier, so I've been using that for 
the last 8 years.  I use Bio-FloJr when I top off the tank for winter.  Any 
thoughts onSeaFoam?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Rick Brass"
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has adye  
in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not beenpaid.

 

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million ofSulphur 
content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating theinjection pump, 
injectors, etc.

 

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissionsstandards, Low 
Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content wasreduced to 500 PPM, and 
lubricity additives were incorporated in thefuel.

 

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emissionstandards, 
Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content oncurrent fuel is 15 
PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULSfuel, just like a new gas 
engine is designed for ethanol.

 

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to 
teachtechnicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive toyour 
fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel becamethe norm. For 
our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later inCanada). The service 
bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which Iunfortunately lost when the laptop’s 
hard drive went up in smoke) bothspecifically recommend the additive from 
Stanadyne.

 

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add 
Standynelubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from 
Lucas).It can’t hurt.

 

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tankfull 
during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the waterin the tank 
and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). Analgaecide and 
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are goodpolicy for avoiding 
fuel filter problems.

 

I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with theduel 
degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat.Diesel can 
generally be stored for about two years without significantdegradation.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
N.Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

 

With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a1985 37 
with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual dieselfill up and the 
pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from astreet gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per galloncheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the"red" 

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I did ours, and butyl tape worked great. Had to over drill and fill the old 
holes yes, also found cracks where the liner and deck met, which were a source 
of leaks, so fixed them with G2 Flex (if I remember correctly) which has a bit 
of give in it. The new Lewmar’s actually matched the openings better than the 
Bomar’s I removed!

Paul Fountain
Perception II
C 33-II

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

All,

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There is a split opinion on using silicon on deck hardware. I believe that 
butyl tape is best. But not all butyl tape was created equal. If you want to go 
that way, I suggest using Compass Marine (I think $25 for 2 rolls that would 
let you bed the entire deck to hull joint).

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tim Goodyear 
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

For a different opinion; 3M 4200...  I used Lifecaulk when replacing Mojito's 
hatches about four years ago and it worked fine, but have been using 4200 for 
all deck hardware since on advice from a couple of yards. 

Tim
C 35-3 Mojito
Branford, CT 

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  All, 

  I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should 
I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

  I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?


  Joel
  35/3
  Annapolis


  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551

  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List best varnish for underwater use

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I don't know what fouling properties you have in your area, but a friend 
left his J-24 rudder in the water for about five weeks and it took a scraper 
and stiff brush to get the crud off it. I recommend some kind of 
anti-fouling paint. Vivid?


Gary
- Original Message - 
From: "Eric Frank via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Eric Frank" 
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:43 PM
Subject: Stus-List best varnish for underwater use


A friend is painting their sailboard's wooden rudder and centerboard. 
Won't be left underwater for long periods of time - perhaps a few days at a 
time.  What are your recommendations for what to use?


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I'll be using butyl when re-installing my hardware and ports. Don't forget to 
use a chamfer bit on your drilled holes.

Best,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2015, at 08:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should 
> I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
> 
> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

For a different opinion; 3M 4200...  I used Lifecaulk when replacing
Mojito's hatches about four years ago and it worked fine, but have been
using 4200 for all deck hardware since on advice from a couple of yards.

Tim
C 35-3 Mojito
Branford, CT

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant
> should I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
>
> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I did talk to a lady at Gill, she said it was past it’s warranty, but that
if I sent it in they *might* spray it with some repellant. 

I did that myself.

 

I think I will try one Gage and one Musto, 

Thanks to all for the suggestions,

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

 

Send the Gills back.  They have a life-time warranty.  You will probably
get a new jacket.

 

Joel

 

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 10:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
 wrote:

I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right
through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with
it.

 

Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any
experience with this brand?

Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?

Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot - 

 

Grundens

Product Name:Â  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - Medium
 

Sku#Â 389941
 

Item IDÂ  GRU BD300-RED-M

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie

 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? Mixing?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Richard,

That's exactly the reason I stick to using one product designed and highly
rated as a lubricity additive.  I then rely on turning over the fuel within
6 months to avoid growth.  IMO Engines are designed to burn diesel not a
chemical cocktail.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 15, 2015 8:05 AM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK upon reading  the several responses; if Stanadyne is the manufacturers
> recommendation, and others like Seafoam or Biobor; my question is; are
> these products mutually exclusive? Or can they be mixed together? Should
> one red over the other? Thanks...
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Paul Baker via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Paul Baker 
> Sent: Thu, Oct 15, 2015 1:27 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
>
> I get seafoam at Lordco.
>
> --
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 19:17:57 -0700
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: russ...@telus.net
>
>
> Seafoam reminds me of the Marvel Mystery Oil claims. I can't find MMO at
> Canadian tire any more, used it in the A4 (oil & gas) regularly.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 06:47 PM 13/10/2015, you wrote:
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/
>
>
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't
> recall exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for
> gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the
> outboard. I think of it as a better alternative to Stabil.
>
> Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to
> engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.
>
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Rick,
> A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that
> looks better than new, suggested I use *SeaFoam *in both fuel and engine
> oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been
> using that for the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank
> for winter.  Any thoughts on SeaFoam?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Rick Brass" 
> *Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
>
> All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a
> dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.
>
>
>
> When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of
> Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the
> injection pump, injectors, etc.
>
>
>
> In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards,
> Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500
> PPM, and lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.
>
>
>
> In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission
> standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on
> current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel,
> just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.
>
>
>
> Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach
> technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your
> fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm.
> For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The
> service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when
> the laptop’s hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the
> additive from Stanadyne.
>
>
>
> Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne
> lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It
> can’t hurt.
>
>
>
> I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank
> full during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in
> the tank and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An
> algaecide and reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
> policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.
>
>
>
> I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with the
> duel degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat.
> Diesel can generally be stored for 

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

When I re-bedded mine, (twice) I used 5200.

Right now a pack of angry wolves want to jump all over me for saying this, (BUT 
DON’T!) because it works for me.

The reason I used 5200 is the rails get stepped on sideways quite often, and I 
want it to be a structural part of the cabintop, not just held down with screws 
which want to bend when someone steps on them sideways.  

A year after I re-bedded them, I found myself in a major refit, painting the 
decks, new hardware, etc. 

I had very little trouble removing them with a thin putty knife heated with a 
heat gun.

They are still fine and dry and solid after 10 years.

 

Probably no one else on the list shares this view, but 

Like my old man used to say, ‘everybody thinks different’

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

 

Where does re-bedding handrails (teak) fit into this discussion? Thanks

 

Richard

1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: 'Joel Aronson' ; cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Oct 15, 2015 9:53 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

Joel,

 

I’ve used butyl tape for a deck hatch, baby stay track and pedestal guard deck 
mount brackets.  It did the job and remains pliable forever.  The hardest part 
of rebidding was to remove the old sealant which cracks with age.  My 
understanding is some 3M products adhere to the gelcoat better than the gelcoat 
adheres to the fiberglass.  I worked a sharpened putty knife between the item 
and the deck so as to cut the sealant.

 

Here’s a great article on using butyl tape: 
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/bedding-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/#post-705340.
  It is available from http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape.

 

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com 
 ] 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

 

All,

 

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

 

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___
 
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone!  I'm ordering 2 rolls from Compass Marine.  If anyone in
Annapolis needs one, let me know.  I'll never use them both.

Joel

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 11:55 AM, Monty Schumpert via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel,
> As many others, I used butyl tape from Compass Marine for the hatches on
> my 34+. I did the re-bed job two years ago and there have been no leaks.
>
> Monty
> Scandia
>
> On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant
>> should I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
>>
>> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Monty Schumpert via CnC-List]

Joel,
As many others, I used butyl tape from Compass Marine for the hatches on my
34+. I did the re-bed job two years ago and there have been no leaks.

Monty
Scandia

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant
> should I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
>
> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Butyl tape is a good sealant but not a good gasket.  For any component taking a 
tensile (or compressive) load to the deck, if butyl tape is used, it will ooze 
out of the joint under compressive loads and allow a gap to be created under 
tensile loads--this is what makes it a poor gasket.  A good gasket recovers 
when deformed--elasticity is what allows the recovery.

Butyl tape is great for mounting hatches etc. where there are no tensile or 
compressive loads being transmitted except clamping loads.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Oct 15, 2015, at 8:50 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There is a split opinion on using silicon on deck hardware. I believe that 
> butyl tape is best. But not all butyl tape was created equal. If you want to 
> go that way, I suggest using Compass Marine (I think $25 for 2 rolls that 
> would let you bed the entire deck to hull joint).
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:42 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Goodyear
> Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch
>  
> For a different opinion; 3M 4200...  I used Lifecaulk when replacing Mojito's 
> hatches about four years ago and it worked fine, but have been using 4200 for 
> all deck hardware since on advice from a couple of yards.
>  
> Tim
> C 35-3 Mojito
> Branford, CT
>  
>> On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> All,
>>  
>> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should 
>> I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
>>  
>> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
>>  
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

I’ve used butyl tape for a deck hatch, baby stay track and pedestal guard deck 
mount brackets.  It did the job and remains pliable forever.  The hardest part 
of rebidding was to remove the old sealant which cracks with age.  My 
understanding is some 3M products adhere to the gelcoat better than the gelcoat 
adheres to the fiberglass.  I worked a sharpened putty knife between the item 
and the deck so as to cut the sealant.

 

Here’s a great article on using butyl tape: 
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/bedding-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/#post-705340.
  It is available from http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape.

 

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

 

All,

 

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

 

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

>  the gelcoat adheres to the fiberglass. >
>
That would be the 3M 5200; definitely not for bedding.  3200 is essentially
Silicone; 4200 a bit more adhesive than LifeCaulk, but removable.

Tim
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay

[David via CnC-List]

Salty,

I installed a Solent Stay on Corsair 6 years ago.  Best thing I ever did for 
offshore work.

Call my cell below for details.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2015 08:13:52 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dre...@gmail.com

Hi,

An email came out from Practical Sailor yesterday with a link pointing a 
discussion on “The DIY Solent Stay or Inner Forestay”

Here is the link:
http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/The-DIY-Solent-Stay-or-Inner-Forestay-11840-1.html?ET=practicalsailor:e30620:117607a:=email=p_waypoints101415



-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com


On Oct 14, 2015, at 11:01 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:On Oct 14, 
2015, at 6:35 PM, corralmaduzi via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi there sailors,
I've eventually become the proud owner of a C 40 and would like to know who 
has fitted a Solent-stay and if they could share the info on how to go about 
it.It will be for cruising and used either for going up-wind with a smaller 
Genoa or a storm-jib when necessary. I would appreciate any info.
Thanks. 
Saltyspearo.


Sent from my GT-I9305T on the Telstra 4G network
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com  
  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Where does re-bedding handrails (teak) fit into this discussion? Thanks

 


Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: 'Joel Aronson' ; cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Oct 15, 2015 9:53 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch



Joel,
 
I’ve used butyl tape for a deck hatch, baby stay track and pedestal guard deck 
mount brackets.  It did the job and remains pliable forever.  The hardest part 
of rebidding was to remove the old sealant which cracks with age.  My 
understanding is some 3M products adhere to the gelcoat better than the gelcoat 
adheres to the fiberglass.  I worked a sharpened putty knife between the item 
and the deck so as to cut the sealant.
 
Here’s a great article on using butyl tape: 
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/bedding-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/#post-705340.
  It is available from http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape.
 
Good luck,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
 
  
 
From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch
 
All,

 

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

 

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Unfortunately, I left the butyl tape I have on the boat for several years.
The thing it sticks to best is the protective paper!

Joel

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 9:23 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Butyl tape is a good sealant but not a good gasket.  For any component
> taking a tensile (or compressive) load to the deck, if butyl tape is used,
> it will ooze out of the joint under compressive loads and allow a gap to be
> created under tensile loads--this is what makes it a poor gasket.  A good
> gasket recovers when deformed--elasticity is what allows the recovery.
>
> Butyl tape is great for mounting hatches etc. where there are no tensile
> or compressive loads being transmitted except clamping loads.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Oct 15, 2015, at 8:50 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> There is a split opinion on using silicon on deck hardware. I believe that
> butyl tape is best. But not all butyl tape was created equal. If you want
> to go that way, I suggest using Compass Marine (I think $25 for 2 rolls
> that would let you bed the entire deck to hull joint).
>
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>
> *From:* Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:42 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Goodyear 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch
>
> For a different opinion; 3M 4200...  I used Lifecaulk when replacing
> Mojito's hatches about four years ago and it worked fine, but have been
> using 4200 for all deck hardware since on advice from a couple of yards.
>
> Tim
> C 35-3 Mojito
> Branford, CT
>
> On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant
>> should I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
>>
>> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551 <301%20541%208551>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

LifeSeal or butyl tape.

http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/sealant_usage.htm

Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 7:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant
> should I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
>
> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

I’m rebedding my front hatch too.  Butyl is what I will be using.  I picked up 
two rolls from pbase.com.  More than enough for several projects.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 08:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

 

All,

 

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

 

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? Mixing?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

I use Stanadyne Performance Formula and Bio-bor.  They have separate functions. 
 I follow the label instructions on each.  No ill effects in 15 years of use.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 08:04
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? Mixing?

 

OK upon reading  the several responses; if Stanadyne is the manufacturers 
recommendation, and others like Seafoam or Biobor; my question is; are these 
products mutually exclusive? Or can they be mixed together? Should one red over 
the other? Thanks...

 

Richard

1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584

 


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Commercial foul weather gear

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

<<< text/html; charset=us-ascii: Unrecognized >>>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

3” or 4” plug?  I might have either or both.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 16:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

 

Nice!

 

Does anyone have a source for a spare plug for a solar vent?  I want to remove 
the vent and insert the plug.

 

Anyone find a source for a replacement solar panel for one of the old style 
vents?

 

Joel

 

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:54 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I finally got around to rebuild my solar vent.  It seems to work fine and all 
was done for under 30 bucks.  

I put the new motor on (The old one was toast both brushes and commutator were 
completely shot.) and replaced the battery with an Eneloop  C Size 3000 mah I 
found on Amazon (It is somehow much more expensive now) 

To make it happen: I had to Dremel the casing a bit as the motor shaft was 
slightly short, I added a couple of small zip ties to tighten the fan's grip on 
the shaft, I made a little plastic motor holder arm, and wrapped the motor with 
a couple turns of double sided tape to help hold the it tight.  

Here are the pictures: 

Motor installed :  
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/21578563523/in/datetaken/
Motor fit from the bottom  
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22011542380/in/datetaken/
Fan close-up (I used 2 zip ties for balance)  
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22012798049/in/datetaken/


-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Hi Nate, 

Sounds to me like one of the commutators in the motor is no longer getting 
current and that creates a dead spot.  I.E your motor is toast. 

You can try connecting a good AA battery directly to the motor if you want to 
test and know for  sure

Here's a good replacement if you or one of your friends is handy with a 
soldering iron:   
 
http://store.sundancesolar.com/motor-for-solar-projects-1-5v-to-12v-dc/

You also need to shim it some for a perfect fit.  I found out about it on one 
of the cruisers forums, the guy reported excellent results.  It's a lot cheaper 
than a new vent.  I just received mine along with a special Eneloop battery I 
found on Amazon.  I'll report back when I install. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
Date: 2015-07-14  02:15  (GMT+01:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nate Flesness 
Subject: Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

My Nicro 4" solar vent, maybe 4 years old, would not run this season.
I replaced the NI-MH C cell, left it switched off for a couple days to
charge in the sun, and turned it on - it wiggles back and forth a little,
but doesn't rotate - same as the with the old battery.

Ideas? solutions?

Thanks

Nate

"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Lake St. Croix
Hudson W
Regards

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

I used butyl tape about five years ago.  Works great, but does ooze out a 
little.  The tape I used was a little on the soft side.   I think the new stuff 
from pbase.com is a bit stiffer.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 10:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

 

Where does re-bedding handrails (teak) fit into this discussion? Thanks

 

Richard

1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Put Calypso in the same group of butyl tape after the over drill and epoxy fill 
process.  For our foredeck hatch which is 33” x 33” we are upgrading to through 
bolts as the deck sees more twist and flex around that larger deck opening.

We have reconditioned all three hatches, two are original 1970 A/H, one (the 
foredeck) is a A/H added in the early 80’s replacing the wood frame original.  
We used Hammerhead for the lens and seal recondition and had a local aerospace 
coating company re-anodize the frames.  We replaced an opening port in the 
cockpit. The white plastic framed port frame failed and allowed water into the 
balsa.  We used a same sized Lewmar which looks much like the other hatches.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 5:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

I did ours, and butyl tape worked great. Had to over drill and fill the old 
holes yes, also found cracks where the liner and deck met, which were a source 
of leaks, so fixed them with G2 Flex (if I remember correctly) which has a bit 
of give in it. The new Lewmar’s actually matched the openings better than the 
Bomar’s I removed!

Paul Fountain
Perception II
C 33-II

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

All,

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Both Walmart, KMart, carry MMO and Seafoam 

- Original Message -

From: "John Irvin via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "John Irvin"  
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 12:57:57 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 

Available in US auto parts stores. Doesn't ship across the border. 

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sent: ‎2015-‎10-‎14 10:18 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 


Seafoam reminds me of the Marvel Mystery Oil claims. I can't find MMO at 
Canadian tire any more, used it in the A4 (oil & gas) regularly. 

Cheers, Russ 
Sweet 35 mk-1 

At 06:47 PM 13/10/2015, you wrote: 


Check this out: 

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/ 



Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: 


I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline engines 
- boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of 
it as a better alternative to Stabil. 

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out. 

Rick Brass 
Washington, NC 

Sent from my iPad 

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Hi Rick, 
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil. It's 
inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that for 
the last 8 years. I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter. Any 
thoughts on SeaFoam? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 


From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass" < rickbr...@earthlink.net > 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye 
in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid. 



When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
pump, injectors, etc. 



In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, Low 
Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and 
lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel. 



In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission standards, 
Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 
15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas 
engine is designed for ethanol. 



Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your fuel 
if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our 
size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The service 
bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when the laptops 
hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from 
Stanadyne. 



Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It cant 
hurt. 



I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the tank 
and eat the diesel (dont get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and 
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding 
fuel filter problems. 



Ive used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so Im not concerned with the duel 
degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can 
generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 







From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Richard N. Bush < bushma...@aol.com > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 



With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and 
the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse 
effects; in addition to this question, what 

Re: Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Nice!

Does anyone have a source for a spare plug for a solar vent?  I want to
remove the vent and insert the plug.

Anyone find a source for a replacement solar panel for one of the old style
vents?

Joel

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:54 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I finally got around to rebuild my solar vent.  It seems to work fine and
> all was done for under 30 bucks.
>
> I put the new motor on (The old one was toast both brushes and commutator
> were completely shot.) and replaced the battery with an Eneloop  C Size
> 3000 mah I found on Amazon (It is somehow much more expensive now)
>
> To make it happen: I had to Dremel the casing a bit as the motor shaft was
> slightly short, I added a couple of small zip ties to tighten the fan's
> grip on the shaft, I made a little plastic motor holder arm, and wrapped
> the motor with a couple turns of double sided tape to help hold the it
> tight.
>
> Here are the pictures:
>
> Motor installed :
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/21578563523/in/datetaken/
> Motor fit from the bottom
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22011542380/in/datetaken/
> Fan close-up (I used 2 zip ties for balance)
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22012798049/in/datetaken/
>
>
> -Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
> Hi Nate,
>
> Sounds to me like one of the commutators in the motor is no longer getting
> current and that creates a dead spot.  I.E your motor is toast.
>
> You can try connecting a good AA battery directly to the motor if you want
> to test and know for  sure
>
> Here's a good replacement if you or one of your friends is handy with a
> soldering iron:
> http://store.sundancesolar.com/motor-for-solar-projects-1-5v-to-12v-dc/
>
> You also need to shim it some for a perfect fit.  I found out about it on
> one of the cruisers forums, the guy reported excellent results.  It's a lot
> cheaper than a new vent.  I just received mine along with a special Eneloop
> battery I found on Amazon.  I'll report back when I install.
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
> From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
> Date: 2015-07-14  02:15  (GMT+01:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nate Flesness 
> Subject: Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate
>
> My Nicro 4" solar vent, maybe 4 years old, would not run this season.
> I replaced the NI-MH C cell, left it switched off for a couple days to
> charge in the sun, and turned it on - it wiggles back and forth a little,
> but doesn't rotate - same as the with the old battery.
>
> Ideas? solutions?
>
> Thanks
>
> Nate
>
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Lake St. Croix
> Hudson W
> Regards
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I finally got around to rebuild my solar vent.  It seems to work fine and 
all was done for under 30 bucks. 

I put the new motor on (The old one was toast both brushes and commutator 
were completely shot.) and replaced the battery with an Eneloop  C Size 
3000 mah I found on Amazon (It is somehow much more expensive now) 

To make it happen: I had to Dremel the casing a bit as the motor shaft was 
slightly short, I added a couple of small zip ties to tighten the fan's 
grip on the shaft, I made a little plastic motor holder arm, and wrapped 
the motor with a couple turns of double sided tape to help hold the it 
tight. 

Here are the pictures: 

Motor installed : 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/21578563523/in/datetaken/ 
Motor fit from the bottom 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22011542380/in/datetaken/
Fan close-up (I used 2 zip ties for balance) 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/22012798049/in/datetaken/


-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Hi Nate, 

Sounds to me like one of the commutators in the motor is no longer getting 
current and that creates a dead spot.  I.E your motor is toast. 

You can try connecting a good AA battery directly to the motor if you want 
to test and know for  sure

Here's a good replacement if you or one of your friends is handy with a 
soldering iron:  
http://store.sundancesolar.com/motor-for-solar-projects-1-5v-to-12v-dc/

You also need to shim it some for a perfect fit.  I found out about it on 
one of the cruisers forums, the guy reported excellent results.  It's a 
lot cheaper than a new vent.  I just received mine along with a special 
Eneloop battery I found on Amazon.  I'll report back when I install. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
Date: 2015-07-14  02:15  (GMT+01:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nate Flesness 
Subject: Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

My Nicro 4" solar vent, maybe 4 years old, would not run this season.
I replaced the NI-MH C cell, left it switched off for a couple days to
charge in the sun, and turned it on - it wiggles back and forth a little,
but doesn't rotate - same as the with the old battery.

Ideas? solutions?

Thanks

Nate

"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Lake St. Croix
Hudson W
Regards

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I had Dan Wood at Canvas Creations jn Annapolis make a custom dodger for my
37+.  The real selling point for me was the hardtop made from Starboard and
the hard "glass" which facilitated some creative engineering around the
myriad of lines running aft and the port and stbd window hatches.  He
worked with me to even engineer an awning which folds under the hardtop and
then extends further aft of the dodger by about 12 inches (We could have
made the dodger longer but head room was an issue.)  The Starboard also
allowed for a brow which extended forward of the windshield.  Since the
shape of the dodger wasn't dependent on the shape of the frame (such as in
the case of a fabric dodger) we could ensure that the winch handles weren't
going to interfere.  The whole project was an exercise in compromise.

Pictures available upon request and availability.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 14, 2015 4:25 AM, "davepulaski via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger
> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners
> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures!
>
> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>
> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the
> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with
> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>
> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin
> top.  Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger
> side panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch
> handle.
>
> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much
> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is
> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the
> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any
> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>
> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back
> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my
> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY
> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead
> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops
> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit
> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the
> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;
>  not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit
> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical.
>
> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated!
>
> -Dave
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Available in US auto parts stores. Doesn't  ship across the border.

-Original Message-
From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎10-‎14 10:18 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Russ & Melody" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?


Seafoam reminds me of the Marvel Mystery Oil claims. I can't find MMO at 
Canadian tire any more, used it in the A4 (oil & gas) regularly.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:47 PM 13/10/2015, you wrote:

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline engines 
- boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of 
it as a better alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:


Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil.  It's 
inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that for 
the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter.  Any 
thoughts on SeaFoam?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Rick Brass" 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye  
in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.

 

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
pump, injectors, etc.

 

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, Low 
Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and 
lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.

 

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission standards, 
Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 
15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas 
engine is designed for ethanol.

 

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your fuel 
if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our 
size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The service 
bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when the laptops 
hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from 
Stanadyne.

 

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
cant hurt.

 

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the tank 
and eat the diesel (dont get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and 
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding 
fuel filter problems.

 

Ive used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so Im not concerned with the duel 
degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can 
generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

 

With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and 
the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse 
effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the upcoming 
winter layup? many thanks 

 

Richard

1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

Email 

Re: Stus-List Stus List - Home safe and sound

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I say keep the name...on superstition alone.  We did.  Its not like the
name is something atrocious like "Pussy Pirate".

Congratulations, enjoy!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 15, 2015 2:15 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ok, we made without issue.  weather was mild and calm mostly but we did
> see a few hours of fog, rain and lightning.
>
> We did 210 nautical miles in 29.5 hours with an average of 7knts
>
> Mostly motor sailing and straight motoring.  Ran the engine the whole way.
>
> I'm very happy with the trip and the boat.  It was my first time that far
> off shore and on an overnight passage.
>
> i'm grateful for the experience and the hired Captain and crew were a
> great couple of guys to spend time with.
>
> I'm very happy to have the boat at home and ready to use for a couple of
> weeks!!
>
> Thanks for all the advice, insights and general banter on the whole
> process finding a boat and getting her home!
>
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Rum Runner IV (currently)
> Wesport Point, MA
>
> P.S. I'm actually considering keeping the name due to the fact she has
> held that name her whole life...  We're being a little superstitious...
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Stus List - Home safe and sound

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, we made without issue.  weather was mild and calm mostly but we did see a 
few hours of fog, rain and lightning. We did 210 nautical miles in 29.5 hours 
with an average of 7knts Mostly motor sailing and straight motoring.  Ran the 
engine the whole way. I'm very happy with the trip and the boat.  It was my 
first time that far off shore and on an overnight passage. i'm grateful for the 
experience and the hired Captain and crew were a great couple of guys to spend 
time with. I'm very happy to have the boat at home and ready to use for a 
couple of weeks!! Thanks for all the advice, insights and general banter on the 
whole process finding a boat and getting her home! Danny1985 Tartan 40Rum 
Runner IV (currently)Wesport Point, MA P.S. I'm actually considering keeping 
the name due to the fact she has held that name her whole life...  We're being 
a little superstitious...___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com