Re: Stus-List C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass - Now deck wash down ideas

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm giving very serious consideration to a deck wash pump install.  I have
a spare thru-hull in the head and room to mount a pump.  A length of PEX
would feed a quick disconnect near the stern and one in the anchor locker.
I would install a 3-way valve so that I could shift suction between
seawater to fresh water.  A 20' coil hose would then be more than enough to
reach the entire boat.  Freshwater mode would be used for deck showers,
summer water fights and a clean boat rinse when needed.  Seawater mode
would be for rinsing the anchor and bird poop and maybe to cool the deck on
hot summer days.

Josh

On Aug 17, 2016 12:50 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the complement Josh.  But no deck wash on Alera, other than a
> cloth bucket on a line.  Works just fine for me.
>
> Tom B
>
> º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> At 07:33 PM 8/16/2016, you wrote:
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 02:32:10 +
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass
> Message-ID:
>   mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ron,
>
> Tom Buscaglia has a pretty nice install. IIRC he included a deck wash. I,
> on the other hand do not wish to incur the added complications and cost of
> an electric windlass. From high current to solenoids to water ingress. So
> my solution is a manual windlass. They are kinda hard to find. That is at
> least one that would fit under the locker cover. A muir shows up on ebay
> from time to time and I found a Sampson? They work with typical winch
> handles. ~$500 for the muir and ~$200 for the sampson. I'd consider parting
> with my sampson and trading up to the muir if I had a buyer.
>
> I have found that the hardest part of pulling the anchor by hand is
> breaking it loose from the bottom. A chain break or even a chain grabber is
> a great help for holding the ground tackle while you use the boat or a trip
> line to unseat a well set anchor.
>
> I can provide more details and links if desired.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> .
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[svpegasus38]

Pegasus is #4. Not sure what Patrick's is. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Dreuge via CnC-List Date: Tue, Aug 16, 2016 
19:21To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Dreuge;Subject:Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - 
List of Hull Numbers etc.
John,
I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.   
Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally’s is 90.
As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com.   It is free and 
pretty simple to start off.
-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:49 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
From: John Sandford 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.
Message-ID: <01a101d1f829$53340240$f99c06c0$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I am a new (18 months), owner of an older C, which I am 'rebuilding' to a
certain extent, based on my priorities.
Complete rebuild of the Mast/standing rig, and underwater for now.
Certainly not to the level of Wally/Fred/Bob, but I am happy with the plan,
and results,(and budget).
Understand that there were only a small number of the LF38 built. (I read
<>250)
Does anyone on the site have a tracker of which ones are still active, with
simple details like, builder, layouts etc.?
See that Bob's is 230, mine is 234, Wallys ?? Paul E ?? Fred ?

And I would do up a rebuild blog, if anyone might be interested, but I have
no clue how to start one.

I have a few pictures though.

Great forum and a great resource for me.

Thanks
John



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Stus-List C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Thanks for the complement Josh.  But no deck wash 
on Alera, other than a cloth bucket on a line.  Works just fine for me.


Tom B

º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 07:33 PM 8/16/2016, you wrote:


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 02:32:10 +
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Ron,

Tom Buscaglia has a pretty nice install. IIRC he included a deck wash. I,
on the other hand do not wish to incur the added complications and cost of
an electric windlass. From high current to solenoids to water ingress. So
my solution is a manual windlass. They are kinda hard to find. That is at
least one that would fit under the locker cover. A muir shows up on ebay
from time to time and I found a Sampson? They work with typical winch
handles. ~$500 for the muir and ~$200 for the sampson. I'd consider parting
with my sampson and trading up to the muir if I had a buyer.

I have found that the hardest part of pulling the anchor by hand is
breaking it loose from the bottom. A chain break or even a chain grabber is
a great help for holding the ground tackle while you use the boat or a trip
line to unseat a well set anchor.

I can provide more details and links if desired.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


.
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

http://www.usedboatequipment.com/ads/simpson-lawrence-anchorman-manual-windlass/

Sorry, I called it a Sampson.

I was looking to replace mine with a Muir that comes up for sale on eBay.
When I checked ebay nothing showed so right now mine is not for sale.  But
follow the link and one can be yours today.

Josh

On Aug 16, 2016 11:17 PM, "Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
> I can't find info on the Sampson but may be interested.  Can you let me
> know more about it and how much you might want?
>
> Jessica
> 1975 C 33
>
> On Tuesday, August 16, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ron,
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia has a pretty nice install. IIRC he included a deck wash. I,
>> on the other hand do not wish to incur the added complications and cost of
>> an electric windlass. From high current to solenoids to water ingress. So
>> my solution is a manual windlass. They are kinda hard to find. That is at
>> least one that would fit under the locker cover. A muir shows up on ebay
>> from time to time and I found a Sampson? They work with typical winch
>> handles. ~$500 for the muir and ~$200 for the sampson. I'd consider parting
>> with my sampson and trading up to the muir if I had a buyer.
>>
>> I have found that the hardest part of pulling the anchor by hand is
>> breaking it loose from the bottom. A chain break or even a chain grabber is
>> a great help for holding the ground tackle while you use the boat or a trip
>> line to unseat a well set anchor.
>>
>> I can provide more details and links if desired.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 16, 2016, 12:58 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe I’m getting old but am considering adding an anchor roller mount
>>> and windlass to my boat.  I have a 33’ Bruce anchor which I may upsize
>>> since I’d no longer be the windlass.  It seemed pretty tricky to get the
>>> anchor and chain in with the head stay, jib tacks and mooring line chocks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Any advice and photos (especially of the bow roller & mooring line chock
>>> areas) would be appreciated.  Please use link to OneDrive
>>>  to copy/paste photos
>>> that you can share or send them to my email address below (without copying
>>> the list).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> *Ron*
>>>
>>> Ron Ricci
>>>
>>> S/V Patriot
>>>
>>> C 37+
>>>
>>> Bristol, RI
>>>
>>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass

[Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List]

Josh,
I can't find info on the Sampson but may be interested.  Can you let me
know more about it and how much you might want?

Jessica
1975 C 33

On Tuesday, August 16, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ron,
>
> Tom Buscaglia has a pretty nice install. IIRC he included a deck wash. I,
> on the other hand do not wish to incur the added complications and cost of
> an electric windlass. From high current to solenoids to water ingress. So
> my solution is a manual windlass. They are kinda hard to find. That is at
> least one that would fit under the locker cover. A muir shows up on ebay
> from time to time and I found a Sampson? They work with typical winch
> handles. ~$500 for the muir and ~$200 for the sampson. I'd consider parting
> with my sampson and trading up to the muir if I had a buyer.
>
> I have found that the hardest part of pulling the anchor by hand is
> breaking it loose from the bottom. A chain break or even a chain grabber is
> a great help for holding the ground tackle while you use the boat or a trip
> line to unseat a well set anchor.
>
> I can provide more details and links if desired.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Tue, Aug 16, 2016, 12:58 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Maybe I’m getting old but am considering adding an anchor roller mount
>> and windlass to my boat.  I have a 33’ Bruce anchor which I may upsize
>> since I’d no longer be the windlass.  It seemed pretty tricky to get the
>> anchor and chain in with the head stay, jib tacks and mooring line chocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Any advice and photos (especially of the bow roller & mooring line chock
>> areas) would be appreciated.  Please use link to OneDrive
>>  to copy/paste photos
>> that you can share or send them to my email address below (without copying
>> the list).
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> *Ron*
>>
>> Ron Ricci
>>
>> S/V Patriot
>>
>> C 37+
>>
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ron,

Tom Buscaglia has a pretty nice install. IIRC he included a deck wash. I,
on the other hand do not wish to incur the added complications and cost of
an electric windlass. From high current to solenoids to water ingress. So
my solution is a manual windlass. They are kinda hard to find. That is at
least one that would fit under the locker cover. A muir shows up on ebay
from time to time and I found a Sampson? They work with typical winch
handles. ~$500 for the muir and ~$200 for the sampson. I'd consider parting
with my sampson and trading up to the muir if I had a buyer.

I have found that the hardest part of pulling the anchor by hand is
breaking it loose from the bottom. A chain break or even a chain grabber is
a great help for holding the ground tackle while you use the boat or a trip
line to unseat a well set anchor.

I can provide more details and links if desired.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016, 12:58 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Maybe I’m getting old but am considering adding an anchor roller mount and
> windlass to my boat.  I have a 33’ Bruce anchor which I may upsize since
> I’d no longer be the windlass.  It seemed pretty tricky to get the anchor
> and chain in with the head stay, jib tacks and mooring line chocks.
>
>
>
> Any advice and photos (especially of the bow roller & mooring line chock
> areas) would be appreciated.  Please use link to OneDrive
>  to copy/paste photos
> that you can share or send them to my email address below (without copying
> the list).
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Rick,

I can understand losing the shape advantage with a tri-radial while furled
but double check about a bi-radial. A bi-radial should have nearly the same
shape furled or unfurled but would have the advantage of aligning the
fibers in the direction of stress (diagonally luff to clew) hopefully
eliminating any bias stretch...theoretically.

http://img.nauticexpo.com/images_ne/photo-g/25615-454011.jpg

I have also found that in my area (middle Chesapeake Bay) my 145 rarely
needs furled. We just don't get too many days consistently over 10kts.

Something else which may not have come up in discussion is the material
used for a padded luff. Many sailmakers default to a foam pad. It is my
opinion that these foams collapse and take on a set as a result of being
rolled or folded up during storage. Consider asking the sailmaker about
using a rope/series of ropes in the pocket instead of foam.

FWIW: I'm not convinced that the sailmakers necessarily have your best
interests in mind. The sooner your sail fails the sooner they get more
business.

Here's some reading material from Practical Sailor.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yakFDZERscXFTaUE

Josh

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016, 12:48 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting that you should mention furling. I’ve always considered roller
> furling to be about the same as roller reefing. But they are not the same
> thing to a sailmaker.
>
>
>
> I had a follow up discussion with a sailmaker for Ullman this morning and
> we discussed how much I might be reefing the headsail. Recall that I had
> planned on a 135 reefable to about 100. He indicated that they don’t
> recommend tri-radial construction for a reefing headsail because the shape
> advantage disappears. And for coastal cruising and durability, they
> recommend using one of the high modulus Dacrons over laminates.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:07 PM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction
>
>
>
> There is a third option which you may not have been aware of.  Bi-radial.
> For a furling sail this might be a good option.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

John,

I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.   

Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally’s is 90.

As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com.   It is free and 
pretty simple to start off.

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:49 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: John Sandford  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.
> Message-ID: <01a101d1f829$53340240$f99c06c0$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> I am a new (18 months), owner of an older C, which I am 'rebuilding' to a
> certain extent, based on my priorities.
> Complete rebuild of the Mast/standing rig, and underwater for now.
> Certainly not to the level of Wally/Fred/Bob, but I am happy with the plan,
> and results,(and budget).
> Understand that there were only a small number of the LF38 built. (I read
> <>250)
> Does anyone on the site have a tracker of which ones are still active, with
> simple details like, builder, layouts etc.?
> See that Bob's is 230, mine is 234, Wallys ?? Paul E ?? Fred ?
> 
> And I would do up a rebuild blog, if anyone might be interested, but I have
> no clue how to start one.
> 
> I have a few pictures though.
> 
> Great forum and a great resource for me.
> 
> Thanks
> John

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

John,

FWIW, I use a software product called MarsEdit on my OS X Mac. I can compose 
the blog there, review it and then upload it to Google Blogger. Pretty simple 
stuff.

Good luck with the rebuild/refit!

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:47 PM, John Sandford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am a new (18 months), owner of an older C, which I am 'rebuilding' to a
> certain extent, based on my priorities.
> Complete rebuild of the Mast/standing rig, and underwater for now.
> Certainly not to the level of Wally/Fred/Bob, but I am happy with the plan,
> and results,(and budget).
> Understand that there were only a small number of the LF38 built. (I read
> <>250)
> Does anyone on the site have a tracker of which ones are still active, with
> simple details like, builder, layouts etc.?
> See that Bob's is 230, mine is 234, Wallys ?? Paul E ?? Fred ?
> 
> And I would do up a rebuild blog, if anyone might be interested, but I have
> no clue how to start one.
> 
> I have a few pictures though.
> 
> Great forum and a great resource for me.
> 
> Thanks
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[John Sandford via CnC-List]

I am a new (18 months), owner of an older C, which I am 'rebuilding' to a
certain extent, based on my priorities.
Complete rebuild of the Mast/standing rig, and underwater for now.
Certainly not to the level of Wally/Fred/Bob, but I am happy with the plan,
and results,(and budget).
Understand that there were only a small number of the LF38 built. (I read
<>250)
Does anyone on the site have a tracker of which ones are still active, with
simple details like, builder, layouts etc.?
See that Bob's is 230, mine is 234, Wallys ?? Paul E ?? Fred ?

And I would do up a rebuild blog, if anyone might be interested, but I have
no clue how to start one.

I have a few pictures though.

Great forum and a great resource for me.

Thanks
John






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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Yes, the 155 will backwind the main a bit more, but the overall effect is still 
very positive.  I will run the traveler a little higher in light air to 
minimize back winding.  As the breeze picks up, the bubble isn’t as pronounced.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

 

Josh,

 

I didn't notice a big difference, but the wind was less than 10 knots.  I 
generally trim the main by looking at the leech. and position of the boom.

Maybe Jake can chime in - it was his sail on my boat for Bermuda.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 12:26 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Joel, 

With the narrow slot didn't you notice that the main got more back wind?  How 
did you handle this?

Josh 

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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List]

When we race, we carry 6 to 10 more people which equates to 2000 lbs of rail 
meat.As the vessel heels she wants to luff.  To stop the juff,  you must 
counter with rudder.  The more rudder you use the more drag is created.  Reef 
the sail and she goes faster because she is upright.
When it is just my wife and I there is no one on the rail.  It is amazing how 
much more sail you can carry when you have extra weight on the high side.

 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Date: 08-16-2016  4:41 PM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction 

I’m curious. Why must you reef the main at 12 knots with the 135, while you can 
carry the full main and 150 to 15, and full main and 100 to 20? Rick 
BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 6:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: evans.in.gibsons 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction I have a 39.  
When we race I can carry a 150 in 15 knots.  When we started cruise i bought a 
135 rolller furl.  It was great up to 12 knots then I have to reef the main.  I 
finally gave up and got a 100% for cruising.  Easier to handle and I can keep 
full sail to 20 knots.  ___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C 99

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Paul,

I've raced on a C 99 several times.  The cockpit is very tight.  The jib
trimmers and the mainsheet are all concentrated in one spot.  Lots of flying
elbows and opportunities for a black eye.  The boat sails well, but I didn't
like the rubbery feel to the helm.  It didn't feel connected.  I prefer my
35 to the 99 any day.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Paul via
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: August 15, 2016 4:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: pxjohn...@verizon.net
Subject: Stus-List C 99

Does anyone have pros or cons that they would like to share about this
model?

Thanks
Sent from my iPhone

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are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I’m curious. Why must you reef the main at 12 knots with the 135, while you can 
carry the full main and 150 to 15, and full main and 100 to 20?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 6:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: evans.in.gibsons 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

 

I have a 39.  When we race I can carry a 150 in 15 knots.

 

 When we started cruise i bought a 135 rolller furl.  It was great up to 12 
knots then I have to reef the main.  I finally gave up and got a 100% for 
cruising.  Easier to handle and I can keep full sail to 20 knots.

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List]

I have a 39.  When we race I can carry a 150 in 15 knots.
 When we started cruise i bought a 135 rolller furl.  It was great up to 12 
knots then I have to reef the main.  I finally gave up and got a 100% for 
cruising.  Easier to handle and I can keep full sail to 20 knots.
We find that we miss the performance only in very little winds..i.e. 3 to 4 
knots.Go with the 100%.

 Original message 
From: jtsails via CnC-List  
Date: 08-16-2016  3:12 PM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: jtsails  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction 




Rick,
My advice is to keep in mind that a racing sail is a racing sail and a 
cruising sail is a cruising sail. Anything in between is a compromise and won’t 
be outstanding for either! I’m really happy with my 125% cross cut cruising 
sail, if I did it again, I would go even smaller (especially if I had an 
asymmetrical for off the wind). With our 16’ J, a 125% is still 20’ LP and 500 
sq ft, not exactly small!! A 135% only has 40 sq ft more area but has an extra 
1.6’ to pull around in a tack. From what I have seen, putting a UV cover on the 
leech screws up the shape of the sail a whole lot more than the difference 
between construction methods. I don’t know what kind of shape the 155% is in, 
but why not keep it for racing and buy a pure cruising sail? Another 
thought 
From a racing perspective, the lead angle on a 135% is wider than the 155% 
which 
sucks for pointing I wonder if we could use a 100-110% that would sheet 
inside the shrouds? It would point much higher than a 135% and be a breeze to 
handle. Maybe mount a track on the old winch base on the cabin top?
James
Delaney
C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC


 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 1:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail 
construction
 


Josh;
 
The 
sailmaker who made my (now retired) 155 called the bubble in the main forward 
of 
the max draft a “speed bump”, said it was no big deal on a headsail driven boat 
like my mid-70s 38 mk2, and indicated it as a sign I could probably point a 
degree or two higher when going upwind.
 
Heck, 
he had sailed in the Americas Cup back in the 80s. Who am I to 
argue?
 
Rick 
Brass
Washington, 
NC
 
 
 
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:26 PM
To: C 
List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new 
headsail construction
 
Joel, 
With the narrow slot didn't you notice that the 
main got more back wind?  How did you handle this?
Josh 

 


   


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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Josh;

 

The sailmaker who made my (now retired) 155 called the bubble in the main 
forward of the max draft a “speed bump”, said it was no big deal on a headsail 
driven boat like my mid-70s 38 mk2, and indicated it as a sign I could probably 
point a degree or two higher when going upwind.

 

Heck, he had sailed in the Americas Cup back in the 80s. Who am I to argue?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:26 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

 

Joel, 

With the narrow slot didn't you notice that the main got more back wind?  How 
did you handle this?

Josh 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

The J42 I race on has extra tethers at the bow and mast for double clipping
in. I see how they would work in theory, but in practice I wasn't a fan.
Since I have a double tether (short and long), when at the mast and it's
bumpy I leave my long tether on the jackline and clip my short one to a
strong point at the mast. Likewise, when on the bow, I found that the D
ring I wanted to clip in to (on my short lead) was occupied by the extra
tether that was left up there. This extra tether (on the bow) also fouled a
bit during sail changes. On the way out of San Francisco for the Pacific
Cup Race* this year, winds were rarely below 30 kts (but not gusty) and
large seas that were very confused. Neither myself nor the other fore-deck
guy used the extra tethers once that I know of.

Re: High Jacklines. I don't see how high jacklines would not be a nuisance
during sail changes and I think they would preclude flying a spinnaker,
certainly dip pole gybes. I also don't believe a pulpit to be a worthy
strong point and any of our boats. In the event that someone were thrown
and loaded the jackline, I would assume the additional leverage created by
having a jackline tied to the pulpit above the deck would quite likely rip
the pulpit out of the deck (many pulpits are not through bolted) or at the
very least bend it back and slacken all of the lifelines. It doesn't sound
like a best practice to me though I could see the convenience if bending
down to pick up a jackline is becoming troublesome.

Just my modest experience and opinion

Kevin
30-2

*We dropped out the Pacific Cup because salt water contaminated our fresh
water supply. Keep and eye on your water tank vents when the going is
really rough!

Here is a compelling video from J46 Riva
, another boat at our club
(Portland Yacht Club) who was also in the Pacific Cup race this year. Riva
had a medical emergency ~1/2 way to Hawaii. The situation was handled
professionally by all involved and the crew member recovered before the
finish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFwvOv7Lluc=em-upload_owner

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 8:43 AM Bmue via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi david.
> Tied off at the pushpit, pulpit and threaded through the ring of a shroud
> cleat. So they ran about waist height, which makes clipping in and running
> the carabiner ahead or behind you a breeze. Also great if you have more
> than one person going up on deck. We'd take them down when making landfall.
> Always felt safe, no clutter on the deck. I have pics i can email directly
> if you like.
> Bettina
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:22, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have never heard of “high” jacklines.  What do you attach them to behind
> the mast?  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 11:05 AM, Bmue via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Try using  high jacklines. Easy to clip into, nothing in your feet to trip
> on, and you can grab them as a last resort.
> Much preferable to having lines on the deck.
>
> Bettina
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 7:29, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> This is interesting subject for me:  I’ve been told to twist the jacklines
> and to keep them flat.  Twisted I’ve found they have a tendency to roll
> under your feet.
>
> Just curious what others do.
>
>
>
>
> *On Behalf Of *Andrew Burton via CnC-List
>
> A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on
> the deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as
> practical; if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs
> along them.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Actually, I'm not proposing the cloth or weight. All the headsail quotes
have recommended Challenge High Mass Fiber in 8.88 to 9.1 oz cloth. 

 

For the main they are recommending either the HMF fabric at 8.88 oz or
Challenge High Aspect High Modulus 8.3 oz. 

 

I presume the cloth recommendations are driven by durability based on the
idea that I do coastal cruising (and the trip to Bermuda for the AC next
June) and only 4 or 5 charity (fun) races each summer.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

 

Rick:

If you were getting say, a 150% genoa made from a lighter cloth than what
you are proposing (8.88 and 9.1 oz.), 

 

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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Interesting that you should mention furling. I’ve always considered roller 
furling to be about the same as roller reefing. But they are not the same thing 
to a sailmaker.

 

I had a follow up discussion with a sailmaker for Ullman this morning and we 
discussed how much I might be reefing the headsail. Recall that I had planned 
on a 135 reefable to about 100. He indicated that they don’t recommend 
tri-radial construction for a reefing headsail because the shape advantage 
disappears. And for coastal cruising and durability, they recommend using one 
of the high modulus Dacrons over laminates.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:07 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

 

There is a third option which you may not have been aware of.  Bi-radial.  For 
a furling sail this might be a good option.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Josh,

I didn't notice a big difference, but the wind was less than 10 knots.  I
generally trim the main by looking at the leech. and position of the boom.
Maybe Jake can chime in - it was his sail on my boat for Bermuda.

Joel

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 12:26 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel,
>
> With the narrow slot didn't you notice that the main got more back wind?
> How did you handle this?
>
> Josh
>
> On Aug 16, 2016 11:26 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> David,
>>
>> When I added a 155 I was shocked at how much boat speed I gained over the
>> 135 in light air.  We also had the inboard jib tracks for use with the
>> 155.  The inboard tracks made for a very narrow slot, but it was fast if
>> you paid attention!
>> Its not you!
>>
>> Joel
>> Formerly 35/3
>> The Office
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 11:18 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I would like to add one more twist to this interesting discussion.  I
>>> have a 140% UK tape drive genoa I got 3 years ago.  My main competitor in
>>> Wednesday night beer can racing is a C 36 which has a 150-155 racing
>>> triradial laminate genoa (no UV protective, kevlar I think).  In 5-12 knots
>>> of wind, he just powers away from us upwind and he is supposed to be 20-30
>>> seconds a mile slower.  Admittedly, he is really good with experienced crew
>>> and knows his boat well from years of competitive racing, but I don't ever
>>> go faster than him upwind.  I fear that a 150% with my crew will be too
>>> much too handle much of the time (3-4 lightweight female novices where he
>>> has 7-8 big strong guys) but I wonder if the 140 vs. 150 is a reasonable
>>> explanation or if a “racing briradial” is that much faster than a
>>> “cruising” tape drive?  Dave
>>>
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:53 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Rick — I don’t know if it will help you any, but I’ve posted a photo
>>> taken this past weekend of my new Rolly Tasker 135 genoa on my web server.
>>> This was under light air (maybe 6-8 knots apparent — I don’t have a wind
>>> instrument, so I’m just guessing). It’s a cross cut design, and seems to
>>> work pretty well.
>>>
>>> http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/headsail.jpg
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 8:41 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> It’s the end of summer and business must be getting slow. I’ve already
>>> been offered the 15% discount (though it was off the highest quote) and
>>> delivery in 3 to 4 weeks.
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Hi david.
Tied off at the pushpit, pulpit and threaded through the ring of a shroud 
cleat. So they ran about waist height, which makes clipping in and running the 
carabiner ahead or behind you a breeze. Also great if you have more than one 
person going up on deck. We'd take them down when making landfall. Always felt 
safe, no clutter on the deck. I have pics i can email directly if you like.
Bettina

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:22, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have never heard of “high” jacklines.  What do you attach them to behind 
> the mast?  Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 11:05 AM, Bmue via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Try using  high jacklines. Easy to clip into, nothing in your feet to trip 
>> on, and you can grab them as a last resort. 
>> Much preferable to having lines on the deck. 
>> 
>> Bettina
>> 
>>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 7:29, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> This is interesting subject for me:  I’ve been told to twist the jacklines 
>>> and to keep them flat.  Twisted I’ve found they have a tendency to roll 
>>> under your feet.  
>>>  
>>> Just curious what others do.   
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>> On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List
>>> 
>>> A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on the 
>>> deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as 
>>> practical; if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs 
>>> along them.
>>>  
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Northeast Rendezvous - Good Old Boat Magazine

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Shameless plug here for Good Old Boat Magazine.  Every year, WITHOUT US
ASKING, BEGGING, or GROBBELING, they send us a big box of their latest
issue to hand out free at our Rendezvous.

Without fail, I just received another box!  Subscribe to them, they are the
best!

http://cncnortheast.com

http://www.goodoldboat.com
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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

David,

When I added a 155 I was shocked at how much boat speed I gained over the
135 in light air.  We also had the inboard jib tracks for use with the
155.  The inboard tracks made for a very narrow slot, but it was fast if
you paid attention!
Its not you!

Joel
Formerly 35/3
The Office

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 11:18 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would like to add one more twist to this interesting discussion.  I have
> a 140% UK tape drive genoa I got 3 years ago.  My main competitor in
> Wednesday night beer can racing is a C 36 which has a 150-155 racing
> triradial laminate genoa (no UV protective, kevlar I think).  In 5-12 knots
> of wind, he just powers away from us upwind and he is supposed to be 20-30
> seconds a mile slower.  Admittedly, he is really good with experienced crew
> and knows his boat well from years of competitive racing, but I don't ever
> go faster than him upwind.  I fear that a 150% with my crew will be too
> much too handle much of the time (3-4 lightweight female novices where he
> has 7-8 big strong guys) but I wonder if the 140 vs. 150 is a reasonable
> explanation or if a “racing briradial” is that much faster than a
> “cruising” tape drive?  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:53 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Rick — I don’t know if it will help you any, but I’ve posted a photo taken
> this past weekend of my new Rolly Tasker 135 genoa on my web server.  This
> was under light air (maybe 6-8 knots apparent — I don’t have a wind
> instrument, so I’m just guessing). It’s a cross cut design, and seems to
> work pretty well.
>
> http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/headsail.jpg
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 8:41 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It’s the end of summer and business must be getting slow. I’ve already
> been offered the 15% discount (though it was off the highest quote) and
> delivery in 3 to 4 weeks.
>
> Rick
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have never heard of “high” jacklines.  What do you attach them to behind the 
mast?  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 16, 2016, at 11:05 AM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Try using  high jacklines. Easy to clip into, nothing in your feet to trip 
> on, and you can grab them as a last resort. 
> Much preferable to having lines on the deck. 
> 
> Bettina
> 
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 7:29, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> This is interesting subject for me:  I’ve been told to twist the jacklines 
>> and to keep them flat.  Twisted I’ve found they have a tendency to roll 
>> under your feet.  
>>  
>> Just curious what others do.   
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>   <>
>> On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List
>> 
>> A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on the 
>> deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as 
>> practical; if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs 
>> along them.
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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Stus-List jackline use

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

This is what I encountered in my own research -  a lot of differing views, and 
these are compounded by the boat’s limitations.   
- “stay on deck vs merely attached to the boat”hence the taut jacklines, on 
the centerline, stopping a tether length short of either end of the boat.  This 
really only works on a boat with enough space to travel the length of the boat, 
inboard of the shrouds, on the windward side, while heeled.   Try that on a 
33ii!
- “tight as practical”.  Well put, and the “practical” part is key.   If 
outboard of the shrouds a taut jackine run end to end (less a tether length at 
each end) fouls the shrouds enough to create a bind of its own.  So, set almost 
taut but with enough slack to allow the carabiner not to foul on the shrouds is 
as “taut as practical”.
- Twisted or not – the debate rages.
Something else mentioned in the more in-depth look at safety, is to have 
dedicated tethers in addition to the jackline in areas where work is commonly 
done.  So, foredeck or base of mast for example, so you are kept from falling 
far at all.   Sounds silly maybe, but if someone other than me had to unjam a 
mainsail slide, it would provide them some security.  The industrial web sling 
makes this affordable vs the  offshore yacht tether.

All sounds a bit like an insurance lawyer’s advice but I have been quite 
surprised by the number of guests who are very uncomfortable outside of the 
cockpit if there is any wind, wave or heel to speak of.   (and this on Lake 
Ontario!)

Dave



Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2016 08:29:36 -0500
From: "Pete Shelquist" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List jackline use
Message-ID: <024001d1f7c2$3c2c0910$b4841b30$@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This is interesting subject for me:  I?ve been told to twist the jacklines and 
to keep them flat.  Twisted I?ve found they have a tendency to roll under your 
feet.  Just curious what others do.   

A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on the 
deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as practical; 
if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs along them.

I?ve always kept them flat, though I have heard the twist suggestion before. I 
find that if they are twisted, they become more of a tripping hazard, or, as 
you say, they can roll under your feet. I understand the primary roll of the 
jacklines is to keep you with the boat, but my primary preference is to keep on 
the deck and avoid injuries. 


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Try using  high jacklines. Easy to clip into, nothing in your feet to trip on, 
and you can grab them as a last resort. 
Much preferable to having lines on the deck. 

Bettina

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 7:29, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This is interesting subject for me:  I’ve been told to twist the jacklines 
> and to keep them flat.  Twisted I’ve found they have a tendency to roll under 
> your feet. 
>  
> Just curious what others do.   
>  
>  
>  
>  
> On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List
> 
> A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on the 
> deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as practical; 
> if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs along them.
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Having done the Annapolis to Bermuda race, as well as a fair amount of offshore 
night work (although nowhere near as much as you, Andrew…), I never had any 
issues grabbing a hold of and clipping onto a flat jackline without the twists; 
and I would definitely have concerns about the tripping hazard involved with 
the twists.  FWIW...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'd always kept them flat(ish), too, but I noted in the Bermuda Race circular 
> they suggested that they be twisted. made sense to me.
> 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine

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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I'd always kept them flat(ish), too, but I noted in the Bermuda Race
circular they suggested that they be twisted. made sense to me.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve always kept them flat, though I have heard the twist suggestion
> before. I find that if they are twisted, they become more of a tripping
> hazard, or, as you say, they can roll under your feet. I understand the
> primary roll of the jacklines is to keep you with the boat, but my primary
> preference is to keep on the deck and avoid injuries.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:29 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> This is interesting subject for me:  I’ve been told to twist the jacklines
> and to keep them flat.  Twisted I’ve found they have a tendency to roll
> under your feet.
>
> Just curious what others do.
>
>
>
>
> *On Behalf Of *Andrew Burton via CnC-List
>
> A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on
> the deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as
> practical; if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs
> along them.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Rick — I don’t know if it will help you any, but I’ve posted a photo taken this 
past weekend of my new Rolly Tasker 135 genoa on my web server.  This was under 
light air (maybe 6-8 knots apparent — I don’t have a wind instrument, so I’m 
just guessing). It’s a cross cut design, and seems to work pretty well.

http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/headsail.jpg 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 8:41 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It’s the end of summer and business must be getting slow. I’ve already been 
> offered the 15% discount (though it was off the highest quote) and delivery 
> in 3 to 4 weeks.
>  
> Rick

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Stus-List C 99

[Barry Lenoble via CnC-List]

Hello,

I looked a C 99 a number of years ago, probably around 2012. It was very
nice, and is kind of tight down below. I wanted a boat that 4-5 people could
spend 3-4 days aboard and I felt that the 99 was just too small. I ended up
buying a 110 and the extra space below was the big difference. 

All of the latest C models (99, 110, 115, 121) are similar. I think they
are all very nice and share a lot of the same components and design. 

The 99's should be quite affordable now.

Good luck,
Barry

Barry Lenoble
leno...@optonline.net
Deep Blue C, C 110
Mt. Sinai, NY




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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I’ve always kept them flat, though I have heard the twist suggestion before. I 
find that if they are twisted, they become more of a tripping hazard, or, as 
you say, they can roll under your feet. I understand the primary roll of the 
jacklines is to keep you with the boat, but my primary preference is to keep on 
the deck and avoid injuries. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:29 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is interesting subject for me:  I’ve been told to twist the jacklines 
> and to keep them flat.  Twisted I’ve found they have a tendency to roll under 
> your feet.  
>  
> Just curious what others do.   
>  
>  
>  
>   <>
> On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List
> 
> A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on the 
> deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as practical; 
> if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs along them.
>>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'm surprised it is only a 15% difference!  What cloth is he proposing for
the tri radial?  I would not go with a cheaper cloth and a tri-radial.

FWIW, The Office had an 8 ounce cross cut. You got a good look at it.

Joel

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:17 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Rick:
>
> If you were getting say, a 150% genoa made from a lighter cloth than what
> you are proposing (8.88 and 9.1 oz.), I would definitely spend the extra
> money and get a tri-radial.
>
> For a 135% from cloth this weight, I doubt there is much of a performance
> difference between the tri-radical and the cross cut.
>
> I have a 150% tri-radical which I used for the first 3 years when I got
> the boat..nice sail and really holds its shape but I found  be too much
> sail most days here.  I had Doyle make me a 135% from 8.3 oz. cloth, its a
> cross cut, and I doubt I could tell the difference if it was tri-radial.
>
> Nevertheless, I do believe the tri-radial is a superior design which will
> hold its shape over time but you will pay for the extra cloth (much wastes)
> and extra stitching (labor) needed to make it.  If you can afford the extra
> 15%, then why not get the better design.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2016-08-15 8:05 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
>
> As I mentioned in an earlier post, I’m in the process of getting a new set
> of sails for Imzadi. Thank you to the listers who recommended lofts and
> commented on their experiences.
>
>
>
> The specs for the new main are pretty well set. All the quotes so far have
> recommended cross cut, loose foot, full batten sails (using my existing
> Strong Track hardware), made frhallenge sailcloth.
>
>
>
> But there seems to be a range of opinion about the 135% roller reefing
> headsail. I’m looking for a 135% sail that can be reefed down to about
> 100%, with a balance of durability and good performance – and performance
> is probably worth some extra money to me. The quotes I’ve gotten all
> recommend a cross-cut sail made from Challenge High Mass Fiber sailcloth
> between 8.88 and 9.1 oz.
>
>
>
> I’ve always understood that tri-radial construction offered superior
> performance and shape over cross-cut construction.
>
>
>
> But one of the sailmakers has commented that both his cross-cut and
> tri-radial headsails would be designed using the same (virtual) mold so
> there would be little performance difference – not enough to justify the
> increased cost for a cruising sail. A second sailmaker says the tri-radial
> sail will “hold its shape better over the long term”, but said the
> significant increased cost (about 15% for tri-radial construction) make
> cross-cut a better option.
>
>
>
> So what is the experience (or opinion) of the list about the value of
> tri-radial construction? Give me some guidance.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[robert via CnC-List]

Rick:

If you were getting say, a 150% genoa made from a lighter cloth than 
what you are proposing (8.88 and 9.1 oz.), I would definitely spend the 
extra money and get a tri-radial.


For a 135% from cloth this weight, I doubt there is much of a 
performance difference between the tri-radical and the cross cut.


I have a 150% tri-radical which I used for the first 3 years when I got 
the boat..nice sail and really holds its shape but I found be too 
much sail most days here.  I had Doyle make me a 135% from 8.3 oz. 
cloth, its a cross cut, and I doubt I could tell the difference if it 
was tri-radial.


Nevertheless, I do believe the tri-radial is a superior design which 
will hold its shape over time but you will pay for the extra cloth (much 
wastes) and extra stitching (labor) needed to make it.  If you can 
afford the extra 15%, then why not get the better design.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-08-15 8:05 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


As I mentioned in an earlier post, I’m in the process of getting a new 
set of sails for Imzadi. Thank you to the listers who recommended 
lofts and commented on their experiences.


The specs for the new main are pretty well set. All the quotes so far 
have recommended cross cut, loose foot, full batten sails (using my 
existing Strong Track hardware), made frhallenge sailcloth.


But there seems to be a range of opinion about the 135% roller reefing 
headsail. I’m looking for a 135% sail that can be reefed down to about 
100%, with a balance of durability and good performance – and 
performance is probably worth some extra money to me. The quotes I’ve 
gotten all recommend a cross-cut sail made from Challenge High Mass 
Fiber sailcloth between 8.88 and 9.1 oz.


I’ve always understood that tri-radial construction offered superior 
performance and shape over cross-cut construction.


But one of the sailmakers has commented that both his cross-cut and 
tri-radial headsails would be designed using the same (virtual) mold 
so there would be little performance difference – not enough to 
justify the increased cost for a cruising sail. A second sailmaker 
says the tri-radial sail will “hold its shape better over the long 
term”, but said the significant increased cost (about 15% for 
tri-radial construction) make cross-cut a better option.


So what is the experience (or opinion) of the list about the value of 
tri-radial construction? Give me some guidance.


Rick Brass

*Imzadi *C 38 mk 2

*la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1

Washington, NC



___

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 127, Issue 86

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Mark,

I replaced my rudder post thrust bearing bushing with one I made from 1/8"  
Ultra-Wear-Resistant PTFE-Filled Delrin Acetal Resin obtained from 
McMaster-Carr.

I have photos and some details on my blog post(scroll down):

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/SteerWork 



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 1:02 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2016 22:01:44 -0700
> From: Mark Evans  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder post bushings
> Message-ID:
>   

Re: Stus-List C 99

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Center of mass ... (dang you Autocorerect!)

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 6:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 99

The best sailing version is the 6.5 Ft keel with carbon mast. The 5.5 Ft keel 
moved center of mast aft and drags transom a bit requiring careful attention to 
keeping weight forward if racing.  Very nice boats. Build quality seems very 
high.  If you buy one you will not regret it

Mike
Persistence, halifax

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Paul via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: August 15, 2016 4:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: pxjohn...@verizon.net
Subject: Stus-List C 99

Does anyone have pros or cons that they would like to share about this model?

Thanks
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Rick, Have you considered that the boat show season is coming up fast and you 
will likely be able to score a 15% discount if you wait and order at the boat 
show? 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/15/16  7:05 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass  Subject: 
Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction 
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I’m in the process of getting a new set of 
sails for Imzadi. Thank you to the listers who recommended lofts and commented 
on their experiences. The specs for the new main are pretty well set. All the 
quotes so far have recommended cross cut, loose foot, full batten sails (using 
my existing Strong Track hardware), made from Challenge sailcloth.  But there 
seems to be a range of opinion about the 135% roller reefing headsail. I’m 
looking for a 135% sail that can be reefed down to about 100%, with a balance 
of durability and good performance – and performance is probably worth some 
extra money to me. The quotes I’ve gotten all recommend a cross-cut sail made 
from Challenge High Mass Fiber sailcloth between 8.88 and 9.1 oz. I’ve always 
understood that tri-radial construction offered superior performance and shape 
over cross-cut construction.  But one of the sailmakers has commented that both 
his cross-cut and tri-radial headsails would be designed using the same 
(virtual) mold so there would be little performance difference – not enough to 
justify the increased cost for a cruising sail. A second sailmaker says the 
tri-radial sail will “hold its shape better over the long term”, but said the 
significant increased cost (about 15% for tri-radial construction) make 
cross-cut a better option. So what is the experience (or opinion) of the list 
about the value of tri-radial construction? Give me some guidance. Rick 
BrassImzadi  C 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1Washington, NC ___

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Re: Stus-List Bow Pulpit Repair

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

If the look and function are ok, it would most likely be easier to just shorten 
the lifelines. 
I shortened the top lifelines on my 27 in order to lower them down a bit at the 
bow pulpit and cause less wear on the genoa. 
Clamp type fittings that can be slid up and down the tubing made the exact 
length non critical and the adjustment easy. 
I forget what I was charged for the swaging, but it was not a lot of money at 
the time.  

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net 
  Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 19:39
  Subject: Stus-List Bow Pulpit Repair


  While docking on a windy day I managed to bend my pulpit.  The only thing 
obvious is that the life lines are slack (more than the threaded adjustments 
are capable of adjusting for) but, the bent pulpit is still "somewhat" 
symmetrical. So, at a minimum I need to bend it "forward", bend the uprights 
forward relative to the base. While there is a lot of information from a lot of 
folks about how to repair the bent pulpit, I can't find any dimensional 
information about the pulpit to see where I need to bend it back to.



  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.



  Dave J

  Saltaire

  C 35 MK3

  Bristol, RI



--


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