Re: Stus-List 33-2 rig inspection - what the heck are these bits used for?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

The fittings below the gooseneck look like excellent candidates for 
cunning-ham (spelling check mod, kinda cute) leads.


The cleat below the boom was likely for outhaul or cheezy lazy-jacks gear.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 09:39 AM 23/10/2016, you wrote:

Hi All,

Am methodically documenting my rig for my upcoming mainsail 
purchase, and took some shots of mystery bits, plus a couple of 
minor troubles that might be of interest to others.


http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/what-are-these-used-for.html


Thanks for any input!

Dave


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Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Dave
My 33-2 has the same bracket on the mast. My Cunningham is knotted at the first 
fairlead, runs up through the cringle in the main and back down through the 
other fairlead, through a change of direction and back  through one of the 
clutches. Should give you a rough 2 to 1 mechanical advantage on the Cunningham 
line. I do not have the cleat on the bottom of the boom.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C 33-2
Lake Huron
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I got a new main and genoa in the fall of 2015 from Boston Sails in Point 
Edward. 
I am very pleased with them
John on Enterprise
 

On Sunday, October 23, 2016 9:06 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 in case anyone is interested (I know two fellow owners are looking for new 
mains) here is an update on my mainsail progress, along with some 33-2 
dimensional info.  
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/mainsail-specification-rig-photos.html

I also updated and earlier post with some  guidance from two sail lofts.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/mainsail-beyond-expired.html

Am expecting two more quotes and will post conclusions later.  

Almost done.
Dave

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Stus-List Masthead sheave replacement.

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px 
#715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white 
!important; } Thanks all. That makes sense. The yard suggested their crane 
which I totally understand $$. 

Barbara L. Hickson

On Saturday, October 22, 2016, 9:02 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:



 

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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=cyVRx6c_TnE=/watch?v%3DPoGMAEjiHmU%26feature%3Dem-subs_digest-vrecs=GeuiBLhXxAu6-WjfVBK83IUavUYfcFAriejNUGCfbfwhxGTXzzXRAwV9Jper8qVLBkuLlZTpxiWT0bXXqiJLITkQpVuorZ9LYkTFfJQo07l2EUcLlhiYL7Ix-CGxxsMtwb2aS78wrf4cCFwsORsanqC0g3KRx9rIGLYlAY9xEE2Dc1Q%3D
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 10:38 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Andrew:
> 
> My prop turns clockwise, therefore, when in reverse, the stern of the boat is 
> initially pulled to 'port' until there is sufficient water flow over the 
> rudder to gain steerage.
> 
> Now add to that, my prop shaft is not centered, it is angled to 'port' a few 
> degrees which accentuates the prop walk or pull of the stern to port.
> 
> This short video will highlight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TMB4-EPMAI
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2016-10-22 12:17 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
>> I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
>>  I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, 
>> but when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If 
>> the prop pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the 
>> effects of the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. 
>> Obviously, others here are experiencing things differently, which I find 
>> surprising.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Inverter to Outlet Via Extension Cord?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Your basic "modified sine" cheap inverter has two hot connections, neither of 
which can be connected to ground. There is no "neutral". So long as you 
understand this, then ok. What it means is that if you connect to a single 
outlet as you describe, or to a string of outlets, what would otherwise be the 
neutral must not connect to the ground anywhere. Ever. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 

 David via CnC-List  wrote: 
We have minimal inverter needs and would like to wire the 1000w inverter 
directly to a dedicated outlet.  It does not have power outputs but two 
receptacles for plugs.


I believe I can wire an extension cord to a outlet (assuming adequately rated 
and quality components), but I would like to know of any pitfalls that others 
may have found.


Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


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Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

in case anyone is interested (I know two fellow owners are looking for new
mains) here is an update on my mainsail progress, along with some 33-2
dimensional info.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/mainsail-specification-rig-photos.html

I also updated and earlier post with some  guidance from two sail lofts.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/mainsail-beyond-expired.html

Am expecting two more quotes and will post conclusions later.

Almost done.

Dave
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Stus-List re Inverter to Outlet Via Extension Cord?

[Tortuga via CnC-List]

The Xantrex Freedom 1000W inverter/charger has provision to remove the GFCI
duplex outlet from the front panel and hardwire the unit to an existing AC
circuit, using the GFCI as the first outlet in the circuit.

Derek Kennedy
SV Tortuga, 30 mk1
Ballantyne's Cove, NS
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Re: Stus-List Choosing an anchor for a C 35 mkll

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I would research so called "modern" anchors before building around a CQR.
Rocna, Manta, and I think, Delta is a pre-modern model but similar.
Supposedly performance is much better than the Bruce and plow.
I have a 10kg bruce with 50' heavy chain plus 150' rode, sail out of
whitby. Came with the boat, seems fine even if - theoretically anyway - at
the lower end of size for my 33-ii.   I think the big pile o' chain really
helps.  I don't have a good second anchor. Have considered plunking down
for a Rocna.
Though I have a small fortress as a lunch hook, I agree with Mike on the
danforth.  An awkward nuisance to stow, and really ineffective in some
conditions. the fortress has proven to be hard to set the few times I've
tried.

Dave


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2016 20:06:46 -0400
From: Persuasion37 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Choosing an anchor for a C 35 mkll
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Greg

I have used a Delta Sure-set 35 exclusively for about 8 years. It has
worked well from the Thousand Islands to the Bahamas.  I have sat through
storms with gusts to 50 kts. and never drug.  I also carry a Bruce 45 and a
Danforth 35 but am strongly thinking of removing them from the boat.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Greg Swetka via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am having a bow roller/stemhead fitting made for my C 35 mkll... I am
looking for advice an choosing the proper size and type of anchor to use.
My fabricator wants to know what I am going to use to properly size the
fabrication. I am leaning towards the Delta or a cqr/plow style of anchor.
I am in the Great Lakes, so most of my anchoring is in weeds, mud, clay and
some sand.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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Re: Stus-List Choosing an anchor for a C 35 mkll

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

It all depends how much you need a good night rest while at anchor.  Are
you a dock person, or do you rent morrings, or do you drop a hook?  My
fried with the same boat put a 35lbs CQR with 5/16" chain.  That boat is
not going anywhere.  But he doesn't have a windlass, so raising anchor is
not his favourite activity.
On Oct 23, 2016 12:08 PM, "Greg Swetka via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am having a bow roller/stemhead fitting made for my C 35 mkll... I am
> looking for advice an choosing the proper size and type of anchor to use.
> My fabricator wants to know what I am going to use to properly size the
> fabrication. I am leaning towards the Delta or a cqr/plow style of anchor.
> I am in the Great Lakes, so most of my anchoring is in weeds, mud, clay and
> some sand.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> >cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> >cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >   1.  Butyl sealant (Gary Nylander)
> >   2. Re:  Butyl sealant (Dennis C.)
> >   3. Re:  Butyl sealant (Kevin Driscoll)
> >   4.  Slip Choice (robert)
> >   5. Re:  Slip Choice (Dennis C.)
> >   6. Re:  Slip Choice (Gary Russell)
> >   7.  Possible bargain C (Chuck Gilchrest)
> >   8. Re:  Slip Choice (Steve Thomas)
> >   9.  Slip Choice (robert)
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 14:29:06 -0400
> > From: "Gary Nylander" 
> > To: 
> > Subject: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> > Message-ID: <01d22aff$d8d1a250$8a74e6f0$@atlanticbb.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl
> we
> > use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that
> on
> > my old hard drive which cratered... can anyone give me the best source?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Gary
> >
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:  com/attachments/20161020/13ffcfb5/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 13:35:02 -0500
> > From: "Dennis C." 
> > To: CnClist 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> >
> > Dennis C.
> >
> > On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl
> we
> >> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have
> that on
> >> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks, Gary
> >>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >>
> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >>
> >>
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:  com/attachments/20161020/45a919e7/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 19:05:36 +
> > From: Kevin Driscoll 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > What Dennis said. Don't bother with anything else. (I've tried others...)
> >
> > On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 11:35 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> >>
> >> Dennis C.
> >>
> >> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl
> we
> >> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have
> that on
> >> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks, Gary
> >>
> >> 

Re: Stus-List Choosing an anchor for a C 35 mkll

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Greg

I have used a Delta Sure-set 35 exclusively for about 8 years. It has worked 
well from the Thousand Islands to the Bahamas.  I have sat through storms with 
gusts to 50 kts. and never drug.  I also carry a Bruce 45 and a Danforth 35 but 
am strongly thinking of removing them from the boat.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Greg Swetka via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am having a bow roller/stemhead fitting made for my C 35 mkll... I am 
> looking for advice an choosing the proper size and type of anchor to use. My 
> fabricator wants to know what I am going to use to properly size the 
> fabrication. I am leaning towards the Delta or a cqr/plow style of anchor. I 
> am in the Great Lakes, so most of my anchoring is in weeds, mud, clay and 
> some sand. 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1.  Butyl sealant (Gary Nylander)
>>  2. Re:  Butyl sealant (Dennis C.)
>>  3. Re:  Butyl sealant (Kevin Driscoll)
>>  4.  Slip Choice (robert)
>>  5. Re:  Slip Choice (Dennis C.)
>>  6. Re:  Slip Choice (Gary Russell)
>>  7.  Possible bargain C (Chuck Gilchrest)
>>  8. Re:  Slip Choice (Steve Thomas)
>>  9.  Slip Choice (robert)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 14:29:06 -0400
>> From: "Gary Nylander" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: Stus-List Butyl sealant
>> Message-ID: <01d22aff$d8d1a250$8a74e6f0$@atlanticbb.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>> my old hard drive which cratered... can anyone give me the best source?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, Gary
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 13:35:02 -0500
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>>> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Gary
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 19:05:36 +
>> From: Kevin Driscoll 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> What Dennis said. Don't bother with anything else. (I've tried others...)
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 11:35 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>>> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Gary
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is 

Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant

[firewater--- via CnC-List]

I have, with good results.  I use butyl to bed anything that has is through 
bolted or otherwise attached to the boat without relying on a sealant for 
strength.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

Get Outlook for iOS




On Sun, Oct 23, 2016 at 10:55 AM -0500, "Greg Swetka via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Has anyone used the butyl sealant for bedding down the teak handrails?

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Stus-List Butyl sealant

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Inverter to Outlet Via Extension Cord?

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Use a GFCI outlet at the least.

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 2:24 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> We have minimal inverter needs and would like to wire the 1000w inverter 
> directly to a dedicated outlet.  It does not have power outputs but two 
> receptacles for plugs.  
> 
> 
> I believe I can wire an extension cord to a outlet (assuming adequately rated 
> and quality components), but I would like to know of any pitfalls that others 
> may have found.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Inverter to Outlet Via Extension Cord?

[David via CnC-List]

We have minimal inverter needs and would like to wire the 1000w inverter 
directly to a dedicated outlet.  It does not have power outputs but two 
receptacles for plugs.


I believe I can wire an extension cord to a outlet (assuming adequately rated 
and quality components), but I would like to know of any pitfalls that others 
may have found.


Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List 33-2 rig inspection - what the heck are these bits used for?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Am methodically documenting my rig for my upcoming mainsail purchase, and
took some shots of mystery bits, plus a couple of minor troubles that might
be of interest to others.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/what-are-these-used-for.html


Thanks for any input!

Dave
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Choosing an anchor for a C 35 mkll

[Greg Swetka via CnC-List]

I am having a bow roller/stemhead fitting made for my C 35 mkll... I am 
looking for advice an choosing the proper size and type of anchor to use. My 
fabricator wants to know what I am going to use to properly size the 
fabrication. I am leaning towards the Delta or a cqr/plow style of anchor. I am 
in the Great Lakes, so most of my anchoring is in weeds, mud, clay and some 
sand. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
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> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Butyl sealant (Gary Nylander)
>   2. Re:  Butyl sealant (Dennis C.)
>   3. Re:  Butyl sealant (Kevin Driscoll)
>   4.  Slip Choice (robert)
>   5. Re:  Slip Choice (Dennis C.)
>   6. Re:  Slip Choice (Gary Russell)
>   7.  Possible bargain C (Chuck Gilchrest)
>   8. Re:  Slip Choice (Steve Thomas)
>   9.  Slip Choice (robert)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 14:29:06 -0400
> From: "Gary Nylander" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> Message-ID: <01d22aff$d8d1a250$8a74e6f0$@atlanticbb.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
> my old hard drive which cratered... can anyone give me the best source?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Gary
> 
> -- next part --
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> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 13:35:02 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, Gary
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
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> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 19:05:36 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> What Dennis said. Don't bother with anything else. (I've tried others...)
> 
> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 11:35 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, Gary
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment 

Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant

[Greg Swetka via CnC-List]

Has anyone used the butyl sealant for bedding down the teak handrails?

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Stus-List Butyl sealant

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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[robert via CnC-List]

Andrew:

It is quite common to have an offset angled prop shaft.  Most if not all 
C 30 MK I's have angled prop shafts..other C models as well.


My understanding for it, rightly or wrongly, is first to allow for the 
removal of the prop shaft without having to drop the rudder. Seems 
reasonable.


Secondly, as I understand it, with a right turning prop (clockwise as 
mine is) it offsets the slight effect of the bow turning to starboard in 
the forward movement with the wheel (rudder) center lined.


I don't think it is a design flaw.  Ask the C guys if it is?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-10-23 11:59 AM, Andrew Burton wrote:

No kidding, Rob! I haven't seen a builder do that before. I'd call it a design 
flaw.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


On Oct 23, 2016, at 10:38, robert  wrote:

Andrew:

My prop turns clockwise, therefore, when in reverse, the stern of the boat is 
initially pulled to 'port' until there is sufficient water flow over the rudder 
to gain steerage.

Now add to that, my prop shaft is not centered, it is angled to 'port' a few 
degrees which accentuates the prop walk or pull of the stern to port.

This short video will highlight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TMB4-EPMAI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2016-10-22 12:17 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
  I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, but 
when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If the prop 
pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the effects of 
the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. Obviously, 
others here are experiencing things differently, which I find surprising.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

You could try a mild solution with Borax. If a bit of the solution
is left behind the alkaline environment is reported to be unfavorable
to molds.

Here is a discussion of Borax, Wet and Forget and the chemicals involved.

http://www.psifly.com/cr2/index.php?topic=24991.0

I use Borax in the fall to wipe down the various cubbyholes in the cabin.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1 





http://www.psifly.com/cr2/index.php?topic=24991.0


Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2016 13:43:56 -0400 (EDT) 
From: Chuck S  
 
Anyone have any experience with a product called, "Wet and Forget".  ?? 
It is supposed to be enviromentally safe, but kills mold by simply spraying on 
and let it air dry.  Available at Lowes and Home Depot. 
 
I'm interested in treating the ceiling and walls of my boat's cabin, as last 
year it was a real battle with sunny days warming the cabin and cold nights 
making condensation form on the cold decks and windows.  Until the weather 
finally stayed cold, I was wiping down the ceilings and walls every visit.   
 
I guess I should add those humidity absorbing tubs too.  Any brands better than 
others?  
 
Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I have wondered for a while why the 30-1 prop shaft is on the port side.
My Gori 2 blade folding has excellent bite in reverse and the prop walk
is to port. Having the shaft on port would give one the theory that the
few degrees of offset would add to pulling the stern to port.

The Goman Express 30 also has RH drive and a slightly offset to port shaft.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1





Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2016 11:17:52 -0400 
From: Andrew Burton  
 
I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts. 
 I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, but 
when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If the prop 
pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the effects of 
the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. Obviously, 
others here are experiencing things differently, which I find surprising. 
 
Andy 
C 40 
Peregrine 
 
Andrew Burton 
61 W Narragansett 
Newport, RI  
USA    02840 
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Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[robert via CnC-List]

Andrew:

My prop turns clockwise, therefore, when in reverse, the stern of the 
boat is initially pulled to 'port' until there is sufficient water flow 
over the rudder to gain steerage.


Now add to that, my prop shaft is not centered, it is angled to 'port' a 
few degrees which accentuates the prop walk or pull of the stern to port.


This short video will highlight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TMB4-EPMAI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2016-10-22 12:17 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:

I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
  I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, but 
when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If the prop 
pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the effects of 
the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. Obviously, 
others here are experiencing things differently, which I find surprising.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I think that, as Josh said, the whole thing depends on the property walk. 
However, if I have left/right and port/still. correctly, if your boat turns to 
port when reversing and you dock bow in, you want to be on the left side 
(looking out) of the fairway. This way, when you go out, you need to turn to 
port (in reverse) and the prop walk helps (the boats turns almost on its own). 
If I had a choice, I would select the dock finger to port - this way when you 
dock and you hit reverse to stop, the prop walk brings the stern towards the 
finger/pilings.

If you want to turn against the prop walk in reverse, my way of doing it is to 
put the transmission in reverse, give the engine and burst of speed and put it 
back in neutral. The burst of speed gets the boat moving (the heart rudder 
starts working), but you don't introduce the prop walk that would work against 
you during the maneuver.

The most important is to figure out what works for you.

I hope it helps.

Marek



Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.



 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 10/21/16 16:03 (GMT+01:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 10/21/16 16:03 (GMT+01:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice


I would say that coming bow in, prop-walk is irrelevant but come out any amount 
of walk will make things interesting to say the least.

I back in and have prop-walk to port in reverse.  Because of this, I love port 
side ties when filling/pumping tanks or coming into a tee pier for the night.

When backing out of your slip the boat will prefer to turn one way or the other 
to get into the fairway.  I think that will be your only consideration.  If 
your prop-walk is to port as is the case on many boats then you'll probably 
want a slip on the right side of the fairway.  This way when you back out, 
you'll back to port, down the fairway towards shore, and then put it in forward 
and drive out straight.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 21, 2016 8:24 AM, "robert via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
I have had a boat on the same mooring for approx. 20 years and have enjoyed the 
ease (stress free) of coming and going from it, especially since I do mostly 
single handed sailing.  However, I am considering getting a 'slip' at our 
marina for next season.  There are several currently available, and with a 'bow 
in' docking (my preference) I have the choice to do it from both port or 
starboard docking.

My boat has an 'offset prop shaft' which, I believe, accentuates the prop walk 
to port when starting in reverse.

So my question is "Is there a preference for either a port or starboard docking 
(bow in) with my prop walk situation?"  Reasons why?  Or does it make any 
difference?

Rob
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Re: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

[Larry via CnC-List]

Chuck

I have not experience with “wet and forget”, however I did mold remediation on 
two house and clean my boat from bow to stern this last summer.

She had a problem with mold on the inside of the hull. 

Yes it is true that bleach will kill the mold. However it will not remove the 
spores or prevent it from coming back. In fact it will oxidize the mold and 
prevent any other form of remediation from working.

 

I use Concrobium, it contains fungicides, antimicrobial and biocides I believe. 
I forget the official name, but it is on the front label. 

I sprayed, scrubbed, rinsed and sprayed it a finial time.

If a bleach product was used prior, it will need to be scrubbed and rinse to 
allow the Concrobium to work correctly.

I found this product to be 100% totally effective.

The two house that I did never had an issue, and one house had a real problem 
with black mold.

 

In my experience Concrobium cannot be beat. Plus it is safe.

 

PS: the only way to remove mold out of cushion foam is to replace the foam.

 

But the key is prevention.

 

Larry

Maile

1986 C 38 MKIII

Freeland, Washington

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rjcasciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rjcasciato
Subject: Re: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

 

Guys:  I have a couple of experiences with Wet & Forget..

First, check their website siteyou'll find the concentrated product 
discussed here in the area of power washers and other roof or siding 
cleaners.I used it on a house roof section that had mold, moss, and 
lichens.2 spraying sessions and left alone per directions.mold gone, 
moss dead Brown and flacking off.lichens not so much.

However, in the household cleaning section they also have a ready you use all 
surface bath and shower spray.  Same expectations.spray it on and leave it 
and then wash with water the next time you shower.

That works great as well, so I tried it all over my engine compartment; engine, 
sides, and the floor and engine bed..let it sit for 2 dayscame back, 
used a small soft bristle brush to go over everything and then hosed it all off 
with a pressure nozzle...

The end result looks brand new.. all sides and floor surfaces are sparkling 
white and engine is new Yammer gray looking

I plan to do 2-3 treatments next year.

 

Almost forgotsame great results in the bilge too. 

 

The ready shower spray is about 4-5 times the price of the concentrate, 
howeverwell worth the cost.

Virtually no work.

Ron C.

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Chuck S via CnC-List  

Date: 10/22/16 1:43 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list CNC boat owners  

Cc: Chuck S  

Subject: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question 

 

Anyone have any experience with a product called, "Wet and Forget".  ??

It is supposed to be enviromentally safe, but kills mold by simply spraying on 
and let it air dry.  Available at Lowes and Home Depot.

 

I'm interested in treating the ceiling and walls of my boat's cabin, as last 
year it was a real battle with sunny days warming the cabin and cold nights 
making condensation form on the cold decks and windows.  Until the weather 
finally stayed cold, I was wiping down the ceilings and walls every visit.  

 

I guess I should add those humidity absorbing tubs too.  Any brands better than 
others? 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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