Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy, 

The water (coolant) inside the freshwater cooled engine is controlled by the 
thermostat.  Coolant is approx 50%  glycol to reduce the freeze point of the 
coolant (-25F or more).  When the engine hits the set temp (190F), the 
thermostat opens and allows coolant cooled by the heat exchanger to enter the 
engine.  No raw water should enter the engine block.  

Think of the heat exchanger as a radiator.  

The amount of raw  (salt or fresh) water is controlled by the speed and 
capacity of the raw pump, controlled by the rpm of the engine.  It is belt 
driven.  It also continues on past the heat exchange phase to be dumped in to 
the path of the hot exhaust, thereby protecting the muffler and exhaust system 
from melting.  

This system accomplishes the same thing as you are describing but changes the 
freeze protection plans.  For freeze protection, I think most folk feed glycol 
solution into the raw water pump until they see it exit the exhaust and then 
shut it down.  

My boat sits in 45-43F seawater virtually all year.  I don’t sweat the freeze 
cycle on the engine!  It would have to get really cold for a very long time.  

I would bet the 2QM20 is a mighty warrior of an engine.   I have the FEARSOME 
3HM35F!  

Happy sailing!


Rick
Paikea- 37+
Tacoma, WA

On Dec 13, 2016, at 8:50 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
wrote:
> 
> Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
> understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
> block when warm enough. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeremy 
>> Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass > > wrote:
>> 
>> Jeremy;
>>  
>> Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
>> older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea 
>> strainer never sees the inside of your engine block.
>>  
>> If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
>> number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the 
>> heat exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, 
>> just like your car.
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>>  
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through
the block
when warm enough.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:

Jeremy;



Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea
strainer never sees the inside of your engine block.



If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the
model number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer,
the heat exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in
it, just like your car.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MkII original location of batteries

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi John,

I don’t know where they were originally!  Likely there were only two 12volts 
back in the day maybe one in the hanging locker, and the other on the shelf in 
the engine compartment?  

I have 2) 6Volt Trogans under the sink, 2 more under the quarter-berth, and one 
nice Dyno (group 31) under the line locker, somewhat accessible from the 
guarter-berth. We are at the dock way too much, and no solar.  

Not a chance I could put batteries under that aft dinette seat - it’s filled 
with Kathleen’s food and prep stuff.

Hope that helps, Lee
74 C 35-II
Simplicity - Seattle
Now it’s to cold to rain!


> On Dec 13, 2016, at 3:43 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi John,
> I put 4 6v Trojans under the aft part of the dinette seat. It just fits. 
> Works like a charm. The PO put some batteries in the quarter birth and they 
> rotted out the bottom of the locker. What a mess! The starter battery is 
> located in the stbd lazerette for now. 
> 
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>> On Dec 13, 2016, at 4:05 PM, John Rand via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I have a C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were 
>> originally. Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't 
>> really fit there (currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
>> So where should they go?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> John
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy,

I don't do any specific winterizing on the water sytems.

I'm just across the pond from you in the area I 
call Pacific South West (Canada)... I would call 
Alaska the real PNW. But then again marketing is 
not something anywhere near my realm of 
expertise. However, keeping a boat in our waters 
all year 'round is something I've done for 40 years.


Most of the time I keep the venerable "cube 
heater" on minimum for the winter. It keeps the 
boat interior near 40 F degrees (I'm seem to be 
stuck in imperial measures too). The period of a 
power any power outage so far has not allowed for 
any negative freezing condition inside the boat, 
even though the marina ice can get 1/2" thick 
(imperial measure again :). As Patrick points out 
there is a large moderating influence by the boat 
sitting in 45 F degree water.


Don't worry. Be happy. And make yourself an nice 
"boat coffee" the next time you check on her.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, East Vancouver Island

At 10:17 AM 13/12/2016, you wrote:
Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver)Â we're 
getting freezing weather now, which rarely 
happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic 
heater running in their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?


Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load 
for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. 
Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze into the sea 
strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.   Â


2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run 
RV antifreeze through the pump and faucet.


3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into 
empty holding tank.  Run macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines. Â


4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Thanks for making that comment. Having lived in Portland for a while, my 
impression is that the winters in Portland and Seattle are about like it is 
here in North Carolina. And I thought Vancouver could not be significantly 
worse. Winterizing for the Northeast US and most of Canada is a whole different 
ball game than Oregon, Washington, and the Carolinas.

 

We’re having a really cold winter so far. The weathermen on TV are going nuts. 
We had a low of 24 F last weekend, and are looking for 22 in the next couple of 
days. Record lows for this time of year. But the day after it dropped to 24 
overnight was almost 50 the next day. Followed by a low of 27 and a high of 60. 
The river is still above 50 F.  And the coldest night only had temperatures 
below 32F for something like 10 hours. 

 

For boats in the water the internal temps are well above freezing and most of 
us only worry about winterizing the drinking water system, and that’s primarily 
to protect the small plastic parts and the pump. Personally I’ve just put a 
couple of gallons of cheap vodka in the water tanks and pumped it through the 
system every winter for the past 17 years.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC- 
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 2:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; jeremy.ra...@gmail.com
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine 
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus visiting 
the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter projects. And 
sailing about 1x/month. 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Jeremy;

 

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

 

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

 

We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it 
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I 
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the 
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes that 
the thermostat would route the water to the block.   

 

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...

On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson  > wrote:

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or muffler.  
As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.

Stay warm!

 

Joel

 

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Re: Stus-List C 35 MkII original location of batteries

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Expresso had a start and house battery under the quarter berth when I got
her.  They were not in battery boxes and when I added battery boxes they
didn't fit well.  I left the start battery there and built two large
battery enclosures on either side of the prop shaft for 4 large house
batteries.  That seemed to work well

Gary
formerly S/V Expresso
'75 C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 6:05 PM, John Rand via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were
> originally. Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't
> really fit there (currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
> So where should they go?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MkII original location of batteries

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Hi John,
I put 4 6v Trojans under the aft part of the dinette seat. It just fits. Works 
like a charm. The PO put some batteries in the quarter birth and they rotted 
out the bottom of the locker. What a mess! The starter battery is located in 
the stbd lazerette for now. 

Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C MkII
in Victoria,BC
> On Dec 13, 2016, at 4:05 PM, John Rand via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were 
> originally. Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't 
> really fit there (currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
> So where should they go?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List C 35 MkII original location of batteries

[John Rand via CnC-List]

I have a C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were
originally. Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't
really fit there (currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
So where should they go?

Thanks,

John
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[William Walker via CnC-List]

don't forget foot pump at the galley sink if you have one.. winterizing the 
pressure water system won't get to it.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
wrote:

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out?


Here is what I did last week to prep:


1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.


2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.


3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  


4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge


What do others do?  Any tips?


Thanks,

  Jeremy

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Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[G Collins via CnC-List]

In Canada you can try these guys, not sure of window prices - haven't needed 
that yet.

http://www.outdoorfabricscanada.com/

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-12-13 3:05 PM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List wrote:
Sailrite is a great source, however if you are in Canada , the shipping is 
crazy expensive compared to value of material (otherwise Sailrite would have 
tons more of my money I tell ya !)


Tim Sippel

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 1:09 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

Sailrite has many types and gauges 
http://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=windows
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 9:50 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where you live I 
guess . its expensive stuff but if you can get by with 36” x 54” its out there

Don’t forget to sew glass behind old glass and seem rip the old one outta there 
.

If up north is Ontario near barrie… tj outdoor fabrics


Tim Sippel

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Nate Flesness via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nate Flesness >
Subject: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a cool 
day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger window. 
Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness, and assume 
strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources, looks like 
large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?

I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31

Both on the hard Up North




This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



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fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
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https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DgICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dlPKFqdfHyuyo1C5k1Dzo2yh1n6I8FsC2yaoUkb-JIM=cNGtwSVBbCe9rPBHobWumq-gESu5ccMxYPn14qeADBs=

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR





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Stus-List Freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the feedback on freeze proofing.

Patrick - I also run a heater and an Ecoseb desiccant dehumidifier (which
is awesome!).  Last year I didn't do anything with antifreeze, just the
heaters, and everything was alright.  This year the freeze is a lot colder
though.  I do worry about power outages, but maybe I'm paranoid from
reading stories on the interwebs of the power going out in a storm and
engines freezing.

On Dec 13, 2016, at 11:43 AM, Patrick Davin  wrote:

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus
visiting the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter
projects. And sailing about 1x/month.
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[randy via CnC-List]

+1 

 

Essentially my program, so far has been fine, (knock on wood) here on the east 
side of the Cascades in the Columbia Gorge.  Water the boat sits in acts as a 
big heat sink.  Air temps in the twenties (F) are common for days, the marina 
ice has frozen over a couple of years enough to walk on, teens occasionally, 
single digits rare, but has happened.  Only additions I do, are to place foam 
blocks in the cowl vents and wrap with a plastic bag, keeps the wind from 
blowing in; place an old blanket over top and back of engine; leave open the 
under galley sink cupboard and remove the engine access panel; I open any 
access to the water system, block head and under head sink open; and remove the 
companionway steps as I’m leaving (which one want’s to remember when visiting 
boat at night!)  I just lift them and set them off to the side as I’m leaving 
at the bridge deck.

 

 

randy

Tamanawas

29-II

Hood River, OR

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; jeremy.ra...@gmail.com
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine 
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus visiting 
the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter projects. And 
sailing about 1x/month. 

 

Vancouver is a little colder, but it's the water temperature that keeps your 
boat's bilge warmer generally. In Seattle the water temp is 50F. I imagine it's 
between 45-50F in Vancouver. You can check US PNW water temps here: 

https://www.nodc.noaa.gov/dsdt/cwtg/npac.html

Vancouver (47F): 
http://www.seatemperature.org/north-america/canada/vancouver.htm

 

Do you have a themometer is your boat cabin? Move it around various places and 
I bet you'll find the bilge is typically at least 10F higher than the outdoor 
temperature (measure in early morning if possible). In Seattle our nighttime 
lows are hitting 26 F. So with 26 F outside air temp + 45-50F water temp, we 
don't hit 32F inside the boat.

 

The cockpit shower hose is a different matter. That's not near the bilge, so 
it's subject to freezing temps (but hasn't had any issues yet).

 

-Patrick

Seattle, WA

 

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 10:46 AM,  > wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
From: Jeremy Ralph  >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: 
Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2016 10:17:01 -0800
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing
Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out?

 

Here is what I did last week to prep:

 

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

 

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.

 

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  

 

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

 

What do others do?  Any tips?

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

 

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Stus-List Freeze Proofing

[colin binkley via CnC-List]

Perhaps I missed a part, but is there like a Bowman heat exchanger involved? 
Does the engine carry its own coolant. If so it is imperative to check coolant 
quantity and degree protection. IMHO
Colin
S/V Lindsey Layne
71 C 40C #3
On the hard Western Lake Erie

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

You never get that cold in Vancouver. We hit regularly –25 C - -30 C, at least 
for part of the winter. But I would not sleep at night if I used only 5 l of AF 
in the engine. Purists take a sample out of the exhaust and check it with 
refractometer. I did it once and I know that after a full bucket (5 gal/25 l), 
my engine is well winterised. As I said, that extra $5-$10 (for an extra jug or 
two) is a very cheap insurance.

Marek

From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 14:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing


We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it 
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I 
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the 
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes that 
the thermostat would route the water to the block.

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...
On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or muffler.  
As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If I may, two comments:

- be careful about that plug in the muffler. I heard that they don’t seal well 
once removed

- be careful with pink AF in the water heater. Supposedly it gels once heated. 
So make sure that you drain it all before you run the engine.

Marek

From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 15:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

This year I found a plug in the bottom front of the muffler, drained that and 
the strainer before I pumped antifreeze (Rv) through, thought was that the 
antifreeze would be less diluted and it would require less fluid. It took one 
and a half jugs to get pink stuff in the pail out back. I use the shop vac on 
all the plumbing lines before I add antifreeze as well. The one thing that 
concerns me is the water heater, I'm never sure I get enough water out, but I 
make sure I get some antifreeze back into it. So far, so good.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List freeze proofing

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

This year I found a plug in the bottom front of the muffler, drained that and 
the strainer before I pumped antifreeze (Rv) through, thought was that the 
antifreeze would be less diluted and it would require less fluid. It took one 
and a half jugs to get pink stuff in the pail out back. I use the shop vac on 
all the plumbing lines before I add antifreeze as well. The one thing that 
concerns me is the water heater, I'm never sure I get enough water out, but I 
make sure I get some antifreeze back into it. So far, so good.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My marina requires you to either have an ice-eater or rent one for $200 from 
them. My $500+ dollar ice-eater finally died after many years, so I am trying a 
new strategy - pond pumps. I got 2 of them, 1000 GPH each, off Amazon for $120 
total. I am going to hang one under the bow and one under the stern. I am 
betting they will use way less electricity besides for costing 80% less for 
both of them. I got this idea from a forum for duck blind owners. If we get a 
real cold month and I have the cabin heat turned up, that plus the ice-eater 
can be an $80 electric bill!

Another hint: Calcium chloride icemelt from the hardware store is WAY cheaper 
than those little buckets sold as dehumidifiers. I poured some out in a bowl 
last winter and it worked great. I have enough left over for several more years.

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus
visiting the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter
projects. And sailing about 1x/month.

Vancouver is a little colder, but it's the water temperature that keeps
your boat's bilge warmer generally. In Seattle the water temp is 50F. I
imagine it's between 45-50F in Vancouver. You can check US PNW water temps
here:
https://www.nodc.noaa.gov/dsdt/cwtg/npac.html
Vancouver (47F):
http://www.seatemperature.org/north-america/canada/vancouver.htm

Do you have a themometer is your boat cabin? Move it around various places
and I bet you'll find the bilge is typically at least 10F higher than the
outdoor temperature (measure in early morning if possible). In Seattle our
nighttime lows are hitting 26 F. So with 26 F outside air temp + 45-50F
water temp, we don't hit 32F inside the boat.

The cockpit shower hose is a different matter. That's not near the bilge,
so it's subject to freezing temps (but hasn't had any issues yet).

-Patrick
Seattle, WA

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 10:46 AM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Jeremy Ralph 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2016 10:17:01 -0800
> Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing
> Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
> which rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
> their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
>
> Here is what I did last week to prep:
>
> 1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.
> Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV
> antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.
>
> 2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through
> the pump and faucet.
>
> 3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run
> macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.
>
> 4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge
>
> What do others do?  Any tips?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When I had a RWC engine I ran the exhaust into the bucket and circulated the 
same antifreeze around and around until it got nice and hot.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 14:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing


We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it 
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I 
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the 
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes that 
the thermostat would route the water to the block.

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...
On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson 
> wrote:
Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or muffler.  
As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes
that the thermostat would route the water to the block.

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...

On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or
muffler.  As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

Sailrite is a great source, however if you are in Canada , the shipping is 
crazy expensive compared to value of material (otherwise Sailrite would have 
tons more of my money I tell ya !)


Tim Sippel

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 1:09 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

Sailrite has many types and gauges 
http://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=windows
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 9:50 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where you live I 
guess . its expensive stuff but if you can get by with 36” x 54” its out there

Don’t forget to sew glass behind old glass and seem rip the old one outta there 
.

If up north is Ontario near barrie… tj outdoor fabrics


Tim Sippel

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Nate Flesness via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nate Flesness >
Subject: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a cool 
day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger window. 
Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness, and assume 
strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources, looks like 
large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?

I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31

Both on the hard Up North




This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DgICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dlPKFqdfHyuyo1C5k1Dzo2yh1n6I8FsC2yaoUkb-JIM=cNGtwSVBbCe9rPBHobWumq-gESu5ccMxYPn14qeADBs=

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR





This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sounds like what I do to winterize around here… btw, the temp is all the way up 
to +7F right now…   :^(

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 13, 2016, at 12:17 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
> rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
> boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
> 
> Here is what I did last week to prep:
> 
> 1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  
> Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV 
> antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.
> 
> 2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
> and faucet.
> 
> 3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
> macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  
> 
> 4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge
> 
> What do others do?  Any tips?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I think you got it.  The only additional thought is that if you can use regular 
antifreeze in any of the the listed applications (obviously not in the potable 
water system) without harming the environment, it is reportedly better for your 
pumps to do so.  Sounds like you’re still in the water, so you’re probably 
stuck with RV stuff all around. 

From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 1:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out? 

Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or
muffler.  As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 1:45 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jeremy,
>
> we do winterising every fall
>
> - run AF through the engine. There are many options, I use a bucket in the
> cockpit and a long hose that I attach to the fresh water hose taken off the
> cooling water seacock (after the seacock is closed). You will probably need
> about 15 l (3 jugs) as a minimum. I use a full Home Depot bucket (I think
> it is 5 gal). It is a cheap insurance for the extra $10. This should
> winterise the engine, the strainer (good to remove water from it before you
> start) and the exhaust (water lift muffler). Since you are in the water,
> you won’t be able to catch it; please be aware that all AF is toxic to
> aquatic life. Fortunately, it gets diluted very quickly.
>
> - if you want to be sure, blow your fresh water lines with air. I take a
> small air compressor to the boat. I have a length of hose with a fitting
> that can get attached to the water hose going out of the pump and blow all
> lines (one at a time). Some people use a vacuum cleaner on blow. For that
> you want to buy an attachment (Canadian Tire or any RV store– around $5) –
> one side is a standard tire valve, on the other a garden hose threaded
> connector. In fact, I blow the water, run the AF through the pump and then
> blow the lines again.
>
> - for the head, close the seacock and take the intake hose at put it into
> a bucket of AF and pump until you see pure AF coming into the bowl. If you
> pour the AF into the bowl and pump it out, you are not protecting the
> intake side.
>
> - if you have a shower, pour AF into the sump
>
> - if you have a cooler (ice box) drain, pour some AF into that drain and
> pump it out
>
> Here, we cover, at least, the cockpit. You want to avoid snow build up.
>
> Also you may find problems with any seacocks. You should keep them closed
> for safety, but if you do, you may end up with a frozen water above it.
> This is especially true with the cockpit drains. We keep them all open, but
> we are on the hard.
>
> Good luck
>
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
> (about 30 cm (1 ft.) of snow on the ground)
>
>
>
> *From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 13, 2016 13:18
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph
> *Subject:* Stus-List freeze proofing
>
> Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
> which rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
> their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
>
> Here is what I did last week to prep:
>
> 1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.
> Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV
> antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.
>
> 2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the
> pump and faucet.
>
> 3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run
> macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.
>
> 4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge
>
> What do others do?  Any tips?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

we do winterising every fall

- run AF through the engine. There are many options, I use a bucket in the 
cockpit and a long hose that I attach to the fresh water hose taken off the 
cooling water seacock (after the seacock is closed). You will probably need 
about 15 l (3 jugs) as a minimum. I use a full Home Depot bucket (I think it is 
5 gal). It is a cheap insurance for the extra $10. This should winterise the 
engine, the strainer (good to remove water from it before you start) and the 
exhaust (water lift muffler). Since you are in the water, you won’t be able to 
catch it; please be aware that all AF is toxic to aquatic life. Fortunately, it 
gets diluted very quickly.

- if you want to be sure, blow your fresh water lines with air. I take a small 
air compressor to the boat. I have a length of hose with a fitting that can get 
attached to the water hose going out of the pump and blow all lines (one at a 
time). Some people use a vacuum cleaner on blow. For that you want to buy an 
attachment (Canadian Tire or any RV store– around $5) – one side is a standard 
tire valve, on the other a garden hose threaded connector. In fact, I blow the 
water, run the AF through the pump and then blow the lines again.

- for the head, close the seacock and take the intake hose at put it into a 
bucket of AF and pump until you see pure AF coming into the bowl. If you pour 
the AF into the bowl and pump it out, you are not protecting the intake side.

- if you have a shower, pour AF into the sump

- if you have a cooler (ice box) drain, pour some AF into that drain and pump 
it out

Here, we cover, at least, the cockpit. You want to avoid snow build up.

Also you may find problems with any seacocks. You should keep them closed for 
safety, but if you do, you may end up with a frozen water above it. This is 
especially true with the cockpit drains. We keep them all open, but we are on 
the hard.

Good luck

Marek
Ottawa, ON
(about 30 cm (1 ft.) of snow on the ground)



From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 13:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out?

Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
which rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?

Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.
Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV
antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through
the pump and faucet.

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Sailrite has many types and gauges
http://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=windows

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 9:50 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where you live I
> guess . its expensive stuff but if you can get by with 36” x 54” its out
> there
>
>
>
> Don’t forget to sew glass behind old glass and seem rip the old one outta
> there .
>
>
>
> If up north is Ontario near barrie… tj outdoor fabrics
>
>
>
>
>
> *Tim Sippel*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Nate
> Flesness via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 13, 2016 12:19 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Nate Flesness 
> *Subject:* Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window
>
>
>
> Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a
> cool day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger
> window. Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness,
> and assume strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources,
> looks like large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?
>
>
>
> I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself
>
>
>
> Nate
>
> Sarah Jean
>
> 1980 30-1
>
>
>
> Valhalla
>
> 1994 Tartan 31
>
>
>
> Both on the hard Up North
>
>
>
>
> --
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
> 
>
>
>
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels
> se fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
>
> 
> --
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DgICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> dlPKFqdfHyuyo1C5k1Dzo2yh1n6I8FsC2yaoUkb-JIM=cNGtwSVBbCe9rPBHobWumq-
> gESu5ccMxYPn14qeADBs=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where you live I 
guess . its expensive stuff but if you can get by with 36” x 54” its out there

Don’t forget to sew glass behind old glass and seem rip the old one outta there 
.

If up north is Ontario near barrie… tj outdoor fabrics


Tim Sippel

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nate 
Flesness via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nate Flesness 
Subject: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a cool 
day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger window. 
Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness, and assume 
strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources, looks like 
large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?

I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31

Both on the hard Up North





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Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a
cool day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger
window. Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness,
and assume strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources,
looks like large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?

I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31

Both on the hard Up North
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Re: Stus-List Prop won't come off

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We pulled the Martec on Persistence last month.  Initially it would not budge.  
Then my go to guy Peter came by with a puller and a lot of experience.

The first thing he said to do was to loosen the nut and back it off.  I believe 
approx. ¼ inch.  This will prevent prop from falling off.  Then we put on the 
puller and tightened with absolutely no results.  Left the puller in place and 
heated the prop hub with propane torch for a while.  After abut ten minutes of 
heating we tapped the hub with a hammer and the prop popped loose.After 
that it was all about not burning our hands

I hope the new Flex-o-Fold is as firmly in place as our Martec was on the shaft!

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Prop won't come off

A word of caution when pulling a prop...be careful when it comes free that 
it doesn't simply drop to a surface (asphalt, rocks,etc) that will damage/dent 
a blade on the prop.

Did that with mine the last time it was taken off.when the prop puller 
finally did its job, the prop flew off and landed on asphalt putting a dent or 
nick (maybe 3/16th deep) in the edge of one of the blades.  Had to send it to a 
shop to have the dent repaired.cost $40 plus shipping but it had to be done 
otherwise I might have had a slight vibration because of the dented blade.

Robert Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2016-12-12 11:23 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:

All joking aside...the prop puller will do it in time..  Put on. Tighten. 
Wait.. Tighten.. Wait..
I pulled mine this summer and thought it would never budge..then pow...it let 
loose with a bang..patience
Bill Walker
Cnc 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Monday, December 12, 2016 Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
And I thought a Sawzall was radical!

Joel

On Mon, Dec 12, 2016 at 8:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
If I could make a suggestion based on a limited knowledge of explosives and 
submarine props:
I would reduce the amount used by quite a bit, perhaps in proportion to the 
size of the prop? Otherwise the results may end up as a rather unique insurance 
claim
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Ron Ricci via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2016 07:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop won't come off

Explosives!  A few feet of Primacord makes it easy.  That what they used to get 
the screw off a submarine.  Good luck!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Prop won't come off

Help!  Tried PB blaster, torch and prop puller   With some no so gentle 
tapping. It won't budge.

Suggestions?

Joel

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!