Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder
Thanks everyone, I've looked into both Foss Foam and Competition Composites. Both options are landing well into the $5000 cdn range (including freight) which is way beyond my budget. Foss Foam doesn't have a C Rudder mold but can try to "match" something similar which scares me a little and it's roughliey $1200 US to get it to Canada. Competition has a very expensive high-tech process using CAD software and a milling machine which I'm sure is standard for any Americas Cup contender but drives the price as expected. Has anyone tried to re-build their own rudder? - I've been told carving 15lb density rigid foam and encapuslating is the way to go - like this: http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2011/07/rudder-rebuild.html Dan On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 9:00 AM Rod Stright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I would suggest Competition Composites in Ontario excellent > workmanship,Canadian > > Rod > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 18, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Has any C owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where > did you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they > have an existing mold to work with. > > > > Dan Cormier > > Breakaweigh > > C > > Halifax, NS > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Thoughts 35-2
35-2 is not only a beautiful boat, but also sails very well. Raced on one for a few years and thoroughly enjoyed it. If I moved up from my 30-1, that would be my choice. However, I should mention that I'm not familiar with the 35-1 like Dennis and others have.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL As it happens, we might be making an offer on the 35-2 we looked at in January. Still mulling it over, as we're in a tough spot where making an offer might just force the other interested party to make a higher offer, and any offer we make will be as high as we can go; I am not going to get into a bidding war. While I really like the boat, I just spent over an hour on the phone with the previous owner of 32 years, and even he admitted that since the major refit he did in 2003, there will be things needing attention just due to age. But all the weak points have been addressed - mast step, every hole epoxy filled & drilled, epoxy barrier coat, etc. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
It's probably the lawyer in me, but 1. don't give cash, 2. don't give a post dated check...he needs to show some trust in you, and 3. don't trust him not to peddle your offer. period. a contract is a contract. The deal is with you or there is no deal. sorry, but I have seen a 1000 go bad. Bill Walker CnC 36 Bill Walker On Friday, April 19, 2019 Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I have told the seller already that I have $10K in cash (from the last deal that went south) ready to hand him, and the rest by cheque. I will give him a deposit and signed offer tomorrow after the sea trial. Is 10% a typical deposit? I will probably give him a cheque, post-dated to the date of the haulout, which is when we expect to complete, unless he wants cash. He has already stated that he wouldn't tell the other buyer the price, but would just tell him that sorry, he has accepted a written offer. It seems to contradict his earlier comment where he said he'd give the other guy the chance to make an offer, but I think he now has serious doubts about the other guy actually completing. We are prepared to complete as soon as I can be satisfied with an inspection, sea trial, and finally a haulout inspection (which is scheduled for 2 weeks from now). I'm trying hard to remain emotionally neutral (lots of practice at this!) and be prepared to walk if something serious comes up, or adjust the price accordingly, but I don't expect that to happen, aside from the deck issue around the chainplates. This is one area where a proper survey might pay for itself, if the surveyor could place a dollar figure on the repair, but surveyors are booking a month out right now. I will still keep trying though, since I will need one to renew insurance in a year anyway. (the insurance company has already agreed to reinsure for new owner based on 4 year old survey). I guess it's possible that something during the sea trial goes wrong also, but the boat is well equipped and said to sail so well, so this seems unlikely. Fingers crossed! On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 2:47 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: Like they say, money talks and bullshit walks – Eg, whomever has a deposit on the boat is first in line, inanything I have ever dealt with. Bill Coleman C 39 Erie, PA Honestly, I would not let the seller peddle your offer to the otherbuyer. Tell seller if he accepts your offer you expect to hold him toit. If he feels he needs to give other buyer a last shot, he should sayto him, sign a contract or I am moving on to next in line... Bill Walker On Friday, April 19, 2019 Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: Hi Shawn, The 35 MkII is a fantastic boat (I owned one), but purchasing without a survey is quiterisky. You seem to understand that, so I won't belabor the point. Dennis isright (usually is), the tabbing of the forward bulkhead can be an issue, but isnot particularly difficult or expensive to fix. Mine was broken, but Ifixed it myself and never had any more problems. I would be moreconcerned about the balsa coring in the deck. Without the proper tools(moisture meter), I don't know how you are going to check for that. Youcan tap on the deck with the handle of a screwdriver, listening for the softersound, but without experience, I'm not sure how successful you will be. Do you have access to the mechanical inspection? Replacing the engine ortransmission for whatever reason can be very expensive. Should at leastdo an oil analysis of the engine and transmission as well as a compressioncheck of the engine. Are you experienced enough to evaluate the conditionof the sails. Even if they don't have rips or holes in them, it doesn'tmean they are not all bagged out and useless. A decent main sail mightcost you $3-4K. The reality is there are many things that can go wrongwith a sailboat that seem simple but cost a lot to fix. I'm not trying tobe negative, just realistic. If you get a good 35 Mk II, you will reallyenjoy a wonderful sailing boat. Best of luck, Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:49 PMDennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Look at all the bulkhead/hulltabbing in the fore section. Forward of the head and hanging locker. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I'm happy to report that wehave agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial and survey. Unfortunately, thereare no surveyors able to conduct a survey for 3-4 weeks, so we may considerforegoing that and instead do a very thorough inspection of the boat myself,followed by a haulout inspection in a few weeks. The situation is a bit unusual:the seller has done a sea trial with another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanicalinspection, and has a survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made aformal offer (not sure why the seller
Re: Stus-List Breaker Breaker
Assuming it is the generic breaker used on mine, it is a Carling A-series breaker, Blue Sea re-packages them individually. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2289980|2289982=2436642 Amperage - they are marked, replace with same unless the wiring has been changed that connects to it. Pretty straightforward to change, just need screwdrivers - no special tools. Graham Collins Secret Plans C 35-III #11 On 2019-04-19 8:35 p.m., Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote: I want to replace one of the dc breakers on Alera. Anyone know what model the breakers are and the amperage, and how to change them out? Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 C 305.409.3660 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
I have told the seller already that I have $10K in cash (from the last deal that went south) ready to hand him, and the rest by cheque. I will give him a deposit and signed offer tomorrow after the sea trial. Is 10% a typical deposit? I will probably give him a cheque, post-dated to the date of the haulout, which is when we expect to complete, unless he wants cash. He has already stated that he wouldn't tell the other buyer the price, but would just tell him that sorry, he has accepted a written offer. It seems to contradict his earlier comment where he said he'd give the other guy the chance to make an offer, but I think he now has serious doubts about the other guy actually completing. We are prepared to complete as soon as I can be satisfied with an inspection, sea trial, and finally a haulout inspection (which is scheduled for 2 weeks from now). I'm trying hard to remain emotionally neutral (lots of practice at this!) and be prepared to walk if something serious comes up, or adjust the price accordingly, but I don't expect that to happen, aside from the deck issue around the chainplates. This is one area where a proper survey might pay for itself, if the surveyor could place a dollar figure on the repair, but surveyors are booking a month out right now. I will still keep trying though, since I will need one to renew insurance in a year anyway. (the insurance company has already agreed to reinsure for new owner based on 4 year old survey). I guess it's possible that something during the sea trial goes wrong also, but the boat is well equipped and said to sail so well, so this seems unlikely. Fingers crossed! On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 2:47 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Like they say, money talks and bullshit walks – > > Eg, whomever has a deposit on the boat is first in line, in anything I > have ever dealt with. > > > > Bill Coleman > > C 39 Erie, PA > > > > Honestly, I would not let the seller peddle your offer to the other > buyer. Tell seller if he accepts your offer you expect to hold him to it. > If he feels he needs to give other buyer a last shot, he should say to him, > sign a contract or I am moving on to next in line... > > Bill Walker > -- > > On Friday, April 19, 2019 Gary Russell via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hi Shawn, > > The 35 Mk II is a fantastic boat (I owned one), but purchasing > without a survey is quite risky. You seem to understand that, so I won't > belabor the point. > > > > Dennis is right (usually is), the tabbing of the forward bulkhead can > be an issue, but is not particularly difficult or expensive to fix. Mine > was broken, but I fixed it myself and never had any more problems. I would > be more concerned about the balsa coring in the deck. Without the proper > tools (moisture meter), I don't know how you are going to check for that. > You can tap on the deck with the handle of a screwdriver, listening for the > softer sound, but without experience, I'm not sure how successful you will > be. Do you have access to the mechanical inspection? Replacing the engine > or transmission for whatever reason can be very expensive. Should at least > do an oil analysis of the engine and transmission as well as a compression > check of the engine. Are you experienced enough to evaluate the condition > of the sails. Even if they don't have rips or holes in them, it doesn't > mean they are not all bagged out and useless. A decent main sail might > cost you $3-4K. The reality is there are many things that can go wrong > with a sailboat that seem simple but cost a lot to fix. I'm not trying to > be negative, just realistic. If you get a good 35 Mk II, you will really > enjoy a wonderful sailing boat. > > > > Best of luck, > > Gary > > S/V Kaylarah > > '90 C 37+ > > East Greenwich, RI, USA > > ~~~_/)~~ > > > > > > On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Look at all the bulkhead/hull tabbing in the fore section. Forward of the > head and hanging locker. > > > > Dennis C. > > Touché 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial > and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey > for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very > thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in > a few weeks. > > > > The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with > another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a > survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not > sure why the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", > and the seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined > to accept an offer from us
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
In my conversation with the previous owner of 30+ years, he explained that he retabbed with epoxy all the bulkheads (the one forward of the galley was the worst), removed the rotted oak mast step and replaced with concrete+SS rebar, removed every through hole in the deck and filled/drilled with epoxy, and drilled holes every 1.5" in soggy core around the mast opening, dried for a month in the summer, then filled with epoxy, and through-bolted the mast shoe which was previously just lag bolted, with core unsealed around the mast. He had the boat hauled out for a year in 2003 for all of this work at his house. I believe he did a pretty good job, as there is no sign at all of any of this work on the outer decks - they look better than most boats I have seen. He did say that there was no soft/wet core around the chainplates at that time, but a recent inspection by a "surveyor in training" (at request of current owner) revealed some minor delamination at the chain plate area, so I suspect they have since begun to leak and penetrate the core. The previous owner spent over an hour going through the work he did in great detail, and he showed obvious pride in the work, so this gives me a bit of comfort. Although some of the work he did was not always pretty (by his admission) he always wanted to make sure it was better than new. That the engine installed in 1995 (used VW engine) and later rebuilt in 2003, is still running well is a sign that he seems to know what he's doing. I asked him about the extra long prop shaft, and he confirmed that it was to give clearance for the larger prop (he went from 7/8" shaft/2 blade folding prop to 1" shaft/3 blade fixed prop), but that there were no vibration issues, and it has been this way since 2003. I'll check for vibration tomorrow when we take her out. Thanks! On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 12:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Look at all the bulkhead/hull tabbing in the fore section. Forward of the > head and hanging locker. > > Dennis C. > Touché 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial > and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey > for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very > thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in > a few weeks. > > The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with > another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a > survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not > sure why the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", > and the seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined > to accept an offer from us subject to a final haulout inspection by myself, > and then tell the other party he has an accepted offer. It's still possible > the other party will counter with a higher offer. We will not go any > higher, and I'm already a bit uncomfortable foregoing a survey, since we'll > need one a year from now to renew the insurance (we can use a 4 year old > survey for another year). That old survey showed no issues at all with the > boat, including electrical and propane, two areas that are usually a > problem. As I said, a very unusual situation, but I think the seller is a > solid guy, although I do question his selling practices - I wouldn't have > gone this far without an offer from the other guy, and I wouldn't squeeze > the other guy out, since I know what that feels like... it's already > happened to us once. > > Anyway, looking forward to the sea trial tomorrow. This will be the chance > to see/hear the engine run, and get comfortable with the sails and rigging. > Appreciate any tips for things to watch for. > > And I'm fully expecting a few people to call me crazy, so don't sugar coat > it... I am still prepared to walk away if I get a bad feeling at any time. > > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
Stus-List Breaker Breaker
I want to replace one of the dc breakers on Alera. Anyone know what model the breakers are and the amperage, and how to change them out? Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 C 305.409.3660___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
Like they say, money talks and bullshit walks – Eg, whomever has a deposit on the boat is first in line, in anything I have ever dealt with. Bill Coleman C 39 Erie, PA Honestly, I would not let the seller peddle your offer to the other buyer. Tell seller if he accepts your offer you expect to hold him to it. If he feels he needs to give other buyer a last shot, he should say to him, sign a contract or I am moving on to next in line... Bill Walker _ On Friday, April 19, 2019 Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: Hi Shawn, The 35 Mk II is a fantastic boat (I owned one), but purchasing without a survey is quite risky. You seem to understand that, so I won't belabor the point. Dennis is right (usually is), the tabbing of the forward bulkhead can be an issue, but is not particularly difficult or expensive to fix. Mine was broken, but I fixed it myself and never had any more problems. I would be more concerned about the balsa coring in the deck. Without the proper tools (moisture meter), I don't know how you are going to check for that. You can tap on the deck with the handle of a screwdriver, listening for the softer sound, but without experience, I'm not sure how successful you will be. Do you have access to the mechanical inspection? Replacing the engine or transmission for whatever reason can be very expensive. Should at least do an oil analysis of the engine and transmission as well as a compression check of the engine. Are you experienced enough to evaluate the condition of the sails. Even if they don't have rips or holes in them, it doesn't mean they are not all bagged out and useless. A decent main sail might cost you $3-4K. The reality is there are many things that can go wrong with a sailboat that seem simple but cost a lot to fix. I'm not trying to be negative, just realistic. If you get a good 35 Mk II, you will really enjoy a wonderful sailing boat. Best of luck, Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Look at all the bulkhead/hull tabbing in the fore section. Forward of the head and hanging locker. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in a few weeks. The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not sure why the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", and the seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined to accept an offer from us subject to a final haulout inspection by myself, and then tell the other party he has an accepted offer. It's still possible the other party will counter with a higher offer. We will not go any higher, and I'm already a bit uncomfortable foregoing a survey, since we'll need one a year from now to renew the insurance (we can use a 4 year old survey for another year). That old survey showed no issues at all with the boat, including electrical and propane, two areas that are usually a problem. As I said, a very unusual situation, but I think the seller is a solid guy, although I do question his selling practices - I wouldn't have gone this far without an offer from the other guy, and I wouldn't squeeze the other guy out, since I know what that feels like... it's already happened to us once. Anyway, looking forward to the sea trial tomorrow. This will be the chance to see/hear the engine run, and get comfortable with the sails and rigging. Appreciate any tips for things to watch for. And I'm fully expecting a few people to call me crazy, so don't sugar coat it... I am still prepared to walk away if I get a bad feeling at any time. -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
Honestly, I would not let the seller peddle your offer to the other buyer. Tell seller if he accepts your offer you expect to hold him to it. If he feels he needs to give other buyer a last shot, he should say to him, sign a contract or I am moving on to next in line... Bill Walker On Friday, April 19, 2019 Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: Hi Shawn, The 35 Mk II is a fantastic boat (I owned one), but purchasing without a survey is quite risky. You seem to understand that, so I won't belabor the point. Dennis is right (usually is), the tabbing of the forward bulkhead can be an issue, but is not particularly difficult or expensive to fix. Mine was broken, but I fixed it myself and never had any more problems. I would be more concerned about the balsa coring in the deck. Without the proper tools (moisture meter), I don't know how you are going to check for that. You can tap on the deck with the handle of a screwdriver, listening for the softer sound, but without experience, I'm not sure how successful you will be. Do you have access to the mechanical inspection? Replacing the engine or transmission for whatever reason can be very expensive. Should at least do an oil analysis of the engine and transmission as well as a compression check of the engine. Are you experienced enough to evaluate the condition of the sails. Even if they don't have rips or holes in them, it doesn't mean they are not all bagged out and useless. A decent main sail might cost you $3-4K. The reality is there are many things that can go wrong with a sailboat that seem simple but cost a lot to fix. I'm not trying to be negative, just realistic. If you get a good 35 Mk II, you will really enjoy a wonderful sailing boat. Best of luck,GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Look at all the bulkhead/hull tabbing in the fore section. Forward of the head and hanging locker. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in a few weeks. The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not sure why the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", and the seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined to accept an offer from us subject to a final haulout inspection by myself, and then tell the other party he has an accepted offer. It's still possible the other party will counter with a higher offer. We will not go any higher, and I'm already a bit uncomfortable foregoing a survey, since we'll need one a year from now to renew the insurance (we can use a 4 year old survey for another year). That old survey showed no issues at all with the boat, including electrical and propane, two areas that are usually a problem. As I said, a very unusual situation, but I think the seller is a solid guy, although I do question his selling practices - I wouldn't have gone this far without an offer from the other guy, and I wouldn't squeeze the other guy out, since I know what that feels like... it's already happened to us once. Anyway, looking forward to the sea trial tomorrow. This will be the chance to see/hear the engine run, and get comfortable with the sails and rigging. Appreciate any tips for things to watch for. And I'm fully expecting a few people to call me crazy, so don't sugar coat it... I am still prepared to walk away if I get a bad feeling at any time. -- Shawn wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
Hi Shawn, The 35 Mk II is a fantastic boat (I owned one), but purchasing without a survey is quite risky. You seem to understand that, so I won't belabor the point. Dennis is right (usually is), the tabbing of the forward bulkhead can be an issue, but is not particularly difficult or expensive to fix. Mine was broken, but I fixed it myself and never had any more problems. I would be more concerned about the balsa coring in the deck. Without the proper tools (moisture meter), I don't know how you are going to check for that. You can tap on the deck with the handle of a screwdriver, listening for the softer sound, but without experience, I'm not sure how successful you will be. Do you have access to the mechanical inspection? Replacing the engine or transmission for whatever reason can be very expensive. Should at least do an oil analysis of the engine and transmission as well as a compression check of the engine. Are you experienced enough to evaluate the condition of the sails. Even if they don't have rips or holes in them, it doesn't mean they are not all bagged out and useless. A decent main sail might cost you $3-4K. The reality is there are many things that can go wrong with a sailboat that seem simple but cost a lot to fix. I'm not trying to be negative, just realistic. If you get a good 35 Mk II, you will really enjoy a wonderful sailing boat. Best of luck, Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Look at all the bulkhead/hull tabbing in the fore section. Forward of the > head and hanging locker. > > Dennis C. > Touché 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial > and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey > for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very > thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in > a few weeks. > > The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with > another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a > survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not > sure why the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", > and the seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined > to accept an offer from us subject to a final haulout inspection by myself, > and then tell the other party he has an accepted offer. It's still possible > the other party will counter with a higher offer. We will not go any > higher, and I'm already a bit uncomfortable foregoing a survey, since we'll > need one a year from now to renew the insurance (we can use a 4 year old > survey for another year). That old survey showed no issues at all with the > boat, including electrical and propane, two areas that are usually a > problem. As I said, a very unusual situation, but I think the seller is a > solid guy, although I do question his selling practices - I wouldn't have > gone this far without an offer from the other guy, and I wouldn't squeeze > the other guy out, since I know what that feels like... it's already > happened to us once. > > Anyway, looking forward to the sea trial tomorrow. This will be the chance > to see/hear the engine run, and get comfortable with the sails and rigging. > Appreciate any tips for things to watch for. > > And I'm fully expecting a few people to call me crazy, so don't sugar coat > it... I am still prepared to walk away if I get a bad feeling at any time. > > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
Look at all the bulkhead/hull tabbing in the fore section. Forward of the head and hanging locker. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List > wrote: > > I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial > and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey > for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very > thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in a > few weeks. > > The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with another > buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a survey > booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not sure why > the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", and the > seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined to accept > an offer from us subject to a final haulout inspection by myself, and then > tell the other party he has an accepted offer. It's still possible the other > party will counter with a higher offer. We will not go any higher, and I'm > already a bit uncomfortable foregoing a survey, since we'll need one a year > from now to renew the insurance (we can use a 4 year old survey for another > year). That old survey showed no issues at all with the boat, including > electrical and propane, two areas that are usually a problem. As I said, a > very unusual situation, but I think the seller is a solid guy, although I do > question his selling practices - I wouldn't have gone this far without an > offer from the other guy, and I wouldn't squeeze the other guy out, since I > know what that feels like... it's already happened to us once. > > Anyway, looking forward to the sea trial tomorrow. This will be the chance to > see/hear the engine run, and get comfortable with the sails and rigging. > Appreciate any tips for things to watch for. > > And I'm fully expecting a few people to call me crazy, so don't sugar coat > it... I am still prepared to walk away if I get a bad feeling at any time. > > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in a few weeks. The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not sure why the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", and the seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined to accept an offer from us subject to a final haulout inspection by myself, and then tell the other party he has an accepted offer. It's still possible the other party will counter with a higher offer. We will not go any higher, and I'm already a bit uncomfortable foregoing a survey, since we'll need one a year from now to renew the insurance (we can use a 4 year old survey for another year). That old survey showed no issues at all with the boat, including electrical and propane, two areas that are usually a problem. As I said, a very unusual situation, but I think the seller is a solid guy, although I do question his selling practices - I wouldn't have gone this far without an offer from the other guy, and I wouldn't squeeze the other guy out, since I know what that feels like... it's already happened to us once. Anyway, looking forward to the sea trial tomorrow. This will be the chance to see/hear the engine run, and get comfortable with the sails and rigging. Appreciate any tips for things to watch for. And I'm fully expecting a few people to call me crazy, so don't sugar coat it... I am still prepared to walk away if I get a bad feeling at any time. -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal and Quadrant Lubrication
Everything you need, lubrication, cable tension, etc., is here: https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf Dennis C. On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 10:05 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > CNC Listers, > > That is excellent advice for adjusting the quadrant cables. Very > appreciated. > > A followup question: > > What are the guidlines for lubricating the Edson pedestal and cables? > > Thank you. > > Al H. > Pacific Ranger > C 35 Mk3 > Vancouver, BC. > > > From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com] > Sent: April 19, 2019 2:29 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 159, Issue 85 > > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Edson Pedestal and Quadrant Lubrication
CNC Listers, That is excellent advice for adjusting the quadrant cables. Very appreciated. A followup question: What are the guidlines for lubricating the Edson pedestal and cables? Thank you. Al H. Pacific Ranger C 35 Mk3 Vancouver, BC. From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com] Sent: April 19, 2019 2:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 159, Issue 85 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?, also 34 & 35-2
Thanks, Neil. Offer made subject to sea trial and survey. I am comfortable doing my own mechanical assessment, as the boat has a VW diesel (custom marinized, not Pathfinder) which I am more familiar with than any typical marine mechanic. The other interested party just had a mechanical survey done, and apparently he was told that it would not be eligible for commercial insurance, presumably due to the engine not being customized by a recognized builder. While I realize this is a risk, after speaking with the previous owner for over an hour, I am confident that I can deal with any issues. The engine was installed in 1995, rebuilt during a refit in 2003, and has gone over 4000 hrs total as installed, so I think this is a pretty good testament to the install. Worst case, I drop in a 30hp Beta for $9K, find a used marine engine for $2-4K, or replace the VW engine for $1000 or so. Now I just have to wait to see if the other buyer goes ahead, or if I get a chance to get the boat. On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 7:44 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > BTW - Your offer, like all offers, should include a survey, sea trial, & > optional mechanical survey. > > Your broker, if you have one, should help with the process. For the > record, I am a yacht broker. > > Neil Andersen > 1982 C 32 FoxFire > Rock Hall, MD > > Neil Andersen > 20691 Jamieson Rd > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > > -- > *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Bruno > Lachance via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, April 18, 2019 9:57 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Bruno Lachance > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?, also 34 & 35-2 > > Shawn, the owner is right, there is ALWAYS something needing attention. > It's a boat. At least he is not trying to convince you everything is > perfect with rainbows and unicorns! > > Make an offer, the worst that can happen is a no thank you. We are cheap > cruisers in Canada but polite ones! ;) > > Good luck. > > Bruno Lachance > Bécassine, 33-2 > New- Richmond, Qc > > > Envoyé de mon iPad > > Le 18 avr. 2019 à 21:37, Shawn Wright via CnC-List > a écrit : > > Thanks John. It seems there is an error at sailboatdata.com regarding the > 34 being a Bruce King design. It's interesting, because I wouldn't have > noticed except someone from an Ericson list pointed me toward one, > mentioning that it was a BK design. As I like both BK and RB/C designs, > it doesn't really matter to me, but it does emphasize to not trust > everything you read online! > > As it happens, we might be making an offer on the 35-2 we looked at in > January. Still mulling it over, as we're in a tough spot where making an > offer might just force the other interested party to make a higher offer, > and any offer we make will be as high as we can go; I am not going to get > into a bidding war. While I really like the boat, I just spent over an hour > on the phone with the previous owner of 32 years, and even he admitted that > since the major refit he did in 2003, there will be things needing > attention just due to age. But all the weak points have been addressed - > mast step, every hole epoxy filled & drilled, epoxy barrier coat, etc. > > Sorry, there I go again, changing the tack of the thread... oops! > > > > On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 6:03 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi Shawn >> >> >> >> FWIW, there is a designer’s commentary on the 34 by Rob Ball as the >> designer. I also believe he owns one here on Buzzard’s Bay. There is also >> a posting today on this list of a 34 for sale very inexpensively. >> >> >> >> John >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Shawn >> Wright via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, April 18, 2019 11:15 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Shawn Wright >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29? >> >> >> >> Thanks, John. I like the 34, and it's the only C designed by Bruce >> King, whose designs I really like, in addition to Rob Ball and C But >> there is only one near me on the West Coast. It's in Gig Harbour, Wa and >> the price is a bit more than our budget at 30K USD, although with a tiller, >> it might be a slow seller. Beautiful boat, and the tiller wouldn't bother >> me at all, except the cockpit seating is designed for a wheel. I don't know >> that there is a C model between 29 and 38 that wouldn't be a good fit; >> it's just finding one near me at a decent price is the problem. >> >> >> >> This 1970 35-1 is interesting, and I will take a look if we go to >> Vancouver to see the 29 that is listed at the same broker (not on YW). >> >> >> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1970/c-c-35-3530795/?refSource=standard%20listing >> >> >> >> I understand the 35-1 is lighter with shorter LWL, rates a tiny bit >> slower, but maybe better in light air. The rudder is less effective than >> the later blade. Not sure of other differences aside from minor cosmetics. >> >> >> >> On
Re: Stus-List Replacing a C 44 Rudder
I will add another vote for CCI in Ottawa. They rebuilt the rudder on my 33-2 and it is better built and was considerably cheaper than South Shore. Not to mention they are in Canada so a dollar is a dollar and no border crossing to be concerned with. http://cci.one/site/?doing_wp_cron=1555678172.536106109619140625 Tom S From: Dan via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2019 3:38 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dan Subject: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder Has any C owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where did you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they have an existing mold to work with. Dan Cormier Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder
I would suggest Competition Composites in Ontario excellent workmanship,Canadian Rod Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 18, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List wrote: > > Has any C owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where did > you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they have an > existing mold to work with. > > Dan Cormier > Breakaweigh > C > Halifax, NS > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Quadrant cable tension
When I worked for Edson I gave the following advice relating to Cable tension: Assuming the entire system to be adequately lubricated per Edson guidelines, allow for no more than 1” total cable deflection for each foot of unsupported wire.If the distance between the idler sheave to the contact point on the radial wheel or quadrant is 2’, adjust the cable for no more than 2” total cable deflection while grasping the wire between your fingers and moving it up and down. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram,MA Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 19, 2019, at 6:27 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List > wrote: > > From Edson (on the last page of this): > https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf > > "STEERING WIRE TENSION To check for proper wire tension, lock the wheel in > position by using the pedestal brake, or by tying off the wheel. Cable > tension is best when you cannot move the quadrant or drive wheel by hand with > the wheel locked in place. Over tightening will greatly reduce the > sensitivity of the system." > > Ken H. > >> On Fri, 19 Apr 2019 at 01:56, Allan Hester via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> CNC listers, >> >> I am installing a Raymarine under deck autopilot for my 1989 C 35 MK3. >> >> The process required removing the quadrant and steering cables. >> >> Does anybody know how tight the quadrant cables should be? Is there a rule >> of thumb for tension or a specific guide? >> >> Thank you. >> >> AL H. >> Pacific Ranger >> C 35 Mk 3 >> Vancouver, BC. >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Quadrant cable tension
>From Edson (on the last page of this): https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf "STEERING WIRE TENSION To check for proper wire tension, lock the wheel in position by using the pedestal brake, or by tying off the wheel. Cable tension is best when you cannot move the quadrant or drive wheel by hand with the wheel locked in place. Over tightening will greatly reduce the sensitivity of the system." Ken H. On Fri, 19 Apr 2019 at 01:56, Allan Hester via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > CNC listers, > > I am installing a Raymarine under deck autopilot for my 1989 C 35 MK3. > > The process required removing the quadrant and steering cables. > > Does anybody know how tight the quadrant cables should be? Is there a rule > of thumb for tension or a specific guide? > > Thank you. > > AL H. > Pacific Ranger > C 35 Mk 3 > Vancouver, BC. > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Quadrant cable tension
I tighten mine until there is very little slop in the wheel. I don't think there needs to be much tension. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC wa. null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
