Stus-List FW: Thru hull replacement

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

The note below is what I sent to Glenn.  Should have hit "reply all."

 

From: wolf...@erie.net  
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 10:25 PM
To: 'Glen Eddie' 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

 

The 35-1 must be set up differently than what I'm used to.  On my mid-70s
boat (same vintage), I have four drains in the cockpit.  Underneath the
cockpit, the drains are attached to hoses, which lead to four corresponding
thru-hulls.  My 34 had the same set up (1978).  If you have thru-hulls in
your cockpit, that is a different configuration.  As I recall, the 35-1 also
has a solid glass hull.

 

I am getting ready to replace the cockpit drains and hoses on my boat.  This
should be relatively straightforward.  By contrast, several years ago we
overhauled the four corresponding thru-hulls because the surrounding core
was wet.  We removed them, cleaned them up and got them working freely,
removed the wet core around their locations, isolated them from the core
with West System, then reinstalled them.  As I recall, we also replaced the
wooden pads on the hull while we were at it.  For re-bedding, we probably
used 4200 or something comparable.  That was the easy part.

 

From: Glen Eddie mailto:ged...@torkinmanes.com> > 
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 6:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: wolf...@erie.net  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

 

The thru hull valves.  

 

On May 25, 2020 4:20 p.m., Matt Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This is an external email.

  _  

Thru-hulls or cockpit drains?

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Glen Eddie via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Glen Eddie mailto:ged...@torkinmanes.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

 

I just looked and see that the thru hulls in the stern of the cockpit of my
C&C 35 Mk I need to be replaced/rebedded.  I plan on using 4200, but my
question is how difficult a job is this one.  Thanks. 

 



Glen Eddie


Tel:  416-777-5357


Fax:  1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

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message. Thank you.

 

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Re: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Neil:

 

That sounds very similar to what we did with my thru-hulls.  
But the thru-hulls are located below the cockpit, not in it.  This confusion is 
why I asked the question.  The 35-1 has cockpit drains that are integral to the 
thru-hulls (that is, not connected with hoses)?

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Neil Gallagher via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 5:55 PM
To: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

 

Matt,

I found one of the original backup (I think it was original, a piece of plywood 
inside the hull and a mushroom type thru hull) was actually loose when I bought 
the boat, so I replaced them all but the two drains from the aft cockpit.  
Those have been on my list for years, someday I'll take the fuel tank out to 
get access. 

The ones I replaced I used a ring of about 6" diameter of  1/2" thick 
fiberglass with a hole for the thru-hull epoxied to the inside of the hull, 
then put bronze flat head screws from the outside thru the fiberglass ring to 
hold the flange of the new thru-hull.  Maybe it was overkill but I don't worry 
about them now.  

I pretty much followed this:

https://pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

Neil Gallagher 
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




On 5/25/2020 4:19 PM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote:

Thru-hulls or cockpit drains?

 

From: CnC-List   
 On Behalf Of Glen Eddie via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Glen Eddie   
Subject: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

 

I just looked and see that the thru hulls in the stern of the cockpit of my C&C 
35 Mk I need to be replaced/rebedded.  I plan on using 4200, but my question is 
how difficult a job is this one.  Thanks. 

 



Glen Eddie


Tel:  416-777-5357


Fax:  1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: May-25-20 03:31 PM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

 

This is an external email.


  _  


Wade,

 

If you're referring to the vacuum gauge and fitting Joe linked to, I suspect 
the male thread goes into the bottom of the gauge.

 

If you're referring to the Racor T-Handle set up, here's a link to Touche's 
Racor 500 with an older style Racor vacuum gauge.

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:03 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Joe

Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the fuel 
line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the T go?  
What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to change 
filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?

Wade

Oh Boy 33-2

 

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can do. 
You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced warning 
when you do need to change one.

Be official:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40 

 &_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/ 
  (also can be used 
for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S

 

Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I

 

 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That is exactly how I just installed mine.  I bought a liquid-filled stainless 
gauge though, probably about $18 for the gauge alone.Bruce Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/24/20  6:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Diesel Filter Regarding Joe's post: the official Racor vacuum gage is 
designed to fit the 500 series racor.  The smaller one like I show in my video 
is no longer available new but was frequently installed on our era boats and is 
likely to still be on many of them.  It is a 200 series.  The 200 series has no 
provision for a t-handle (rather a band clamp) so the official t-gage won't 
fit.  In my video I show having used a brass tee, 2 hose barbs, a street elbow, 
and an El cheapo vacuum gage which I believe I procured from Amazon.  The total 
package was less than $20.  The hose barbs allow it to be installed anywhere on 
the fuel hose connecting between the racor and the engine.Josh Muckley S/V Sea 
Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn Sun, May 24, 2020, 18:15 Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List  wrote:
  

  
  
A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements
  you can do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes
  and get advanced warning when you do need to change one.
Be official:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0
Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/
  (also can be used for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S


Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I



On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  Time and again I have read
  that Yanmar does not recommend a 2/3 micron primary filter.  I
  therefore use a 10 micron, and use Biobar, as well as some
  Seafoam.   I have some old crud in my tank, but where I can
  see it through the hole for the sender, the bits I can see are
  pretty well stuck to the bottom of the tank (and there are not
  many of them).  That said, the boat had sat at the dock for
  +/- 6 years before I got her, and we have run 150 gallons or
  so of fuel through the boat in the last 4 years.  
  

  I change my Racor every
  year, and I used to change the one on the engine every year as
  well.  This time, I'm going to let the engine mounted one go
  another year.  We still get a fine layer of black "grit" at
  the bottom of the racor over the year, but it does not appear
  to hinder the running of the engine.  
  

  I'd rather swap out a $20
  filter once a year than risk the engine shutting down as I go
  through a bridge opening with 3 kts. of current.  
  

  To each their own,
  

  Bruce 
  
  
  

  

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Stus-List Selling C & C 24 Sidney BC

[Patrick Wesley via CnC-List]

My 1983 24 ft Mk II is now up for sale, asking C$7,500.



https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1983-24-ft-C--C-sloop_35825144




Patrick Wesley


On May 13, 2020 at 8:59 a.m., Patrick Wesley  wrote:


Regret to say that the time has come to part with The Boat after many years of 
great fun. Watch this space. Any advice on how to do this, I have little 
practice! Patrick Wesley



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Re: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

The thru hull valves.

On May 25, 2020 4:20 p.m., Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
wrote:
This is an external email.

Thru-hulls or cockpit drains?

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Glen Eddie via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

I just looked and see that the thru hulls in the stern of the cockpit of my C&C 
35 Mk I need to be replaced/rebedded.  I plan on using 4200, but my question is 
how difficult a job is this one.  Thanks.

Glen Eddie
Tel:  416-777-5357
Fax:  1-888-812-2557
Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors
This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: May-25-20 03:31 PM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

This is an external email.

Wade,

If you're referring to the vacuum gauge and fitting Joe linked to, I suspect 
the male thread goes into the bottom of the gauge.

If you're referring to the Racor T-Handle set up, here's a link to Touche's 
Racor 500 with an older style Racor vacuum gauge.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:03 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Joe
Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the fuel 
line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the T go?  
What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to change 
filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can do. 
You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced warning 
when you do need to change one.

Be official:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/
 (also can be used for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S



Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I



--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I can get a photo next weekend but it looks much like the ones others have
posted to secure the ram, a substantial marine plywood shelf glassed over
and securely tabbed to the hull interior.  The ram pokes through the
cockpit well wall and has a rubber flap on both sides to keep water
intrusion to a minimum.  I don't actually see any water get in through that
small hole.

Ken H.

On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 18:49, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ken
>
> Well that was not expectedveery interesting.  How about a picture of
> the inside of the lazarette to the how the drive is mounted?
>
> Tom B
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> At 01:20 PM 5/25/2020, you wrote:
>
> --
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 17:05:24 -0300
> From: Ken Heaton 
> To: cnc-list 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40
> Message-ID:
>  <
> caabfp6sbrt4qnlrgncoyow68jb2_coz0rhdzjknrocfd6s8...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> " so folks will build up the radial drive with reinforcement plates above
> and below the wheel and through bolt the attachment point through 3 layers
> of metal to mitigate any torsional loads from the ram."
>
> I think that is exactly what has been done to our Radial Wheel in the
> photos I linked (i.e. there is another plate below the wheel, out of sight
> in the photos)
>
> Photos here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8
>
> If the Radial Wheel gave up the ghost as Chuck suggests could happen, the
> emergency tiller would still work. Better than nothing I suppose.
>
> Ken H.
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Matt,

I found one of the original backup (I think it was original, a piece of 
plywood inside the hull and a mushroom type thru hull) was actually 
loose when I bought the boat, so I replaced them all but the two drains 
from the aft cockpit.  Those have been on my list for years, someday 
I'll take the fuel tank out to get access.


The ones I replaced I used a ring of about 6" diameter of  1/2" thick 
fiberglass with a hole for the thru-hull epoxied to the inside of the 
hull, then put bronze flat head screws from the outside thru the 
fiberglass ring to hold the flange of the new thru-hull.  Maybe it was 
overkill but I don't worry about them now.


I pretty much followed this:

https://pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 5/25/2020 4:19 PM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote:


Thru-hulls or cockpit drains?

*From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Glen 
Eddie via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, May 25, 2020 3:36 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Glen Eddie 
*Subject:* Stus-List Thru hull replacement

I just looked and see that the thru hulls in the stern of the cockpit 
of my C&C 35 Mk I need to be replaced/rebedded.  I plan on using 4200, 
but my question is how difficult a job is this one.  Thanks.


*Glen Eddie*

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557

*Torkin Manes LLP*
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the 
named recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, 
confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If 
you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and 
delete this email message. Thank you.


*From:* CnC-List > *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via 
CnC-List

*Sent:* May-25-20 03:31 PM
*To:* CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

*This is an external email.*



Wade,

If you're referring to the vacuum gauge and fitting Joe linked to, I 
suspect the male thread goes into the bottom of the gauge.


If you're referring to the Racor T-Handle set up, here's a link to 
Touche's Racor 500 with an older style Racor vacuum gauge.


  --

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:03 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Joe

Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go
in the fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the
threaded base of the T go?  What is a normal pressure? What
pressure reading makes you decide to change filters?  Are the
lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?

Wade

Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List,
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio
improvements you can do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded
filter changes and get advanced warning when you do need to
change one.

Be official:


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/

(also can be used for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz


https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S

Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

*Disclaimer*

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confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and 
others authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are 
hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking 
action in relation of the contents of this information is strictly 
prohibited and may be unlawful.


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.




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Thanks everyo

Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Ken

Well that was not expectedveery 
interesting.  How about a picture of the inside 
of the lazarette to the how the drive is mounted?


Tom B


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 01:20 PM 5/25/2020, you wrote:

--

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 17:05:24 -0300
From: Ken Heaton 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

" so folks will build up the radial drive with reinforcement plates above
and below the wheel and through bolt the attachment point through 3 layers
of metal to mitigate any torsional loads from the ram."

I think that is exactly what has been done to our Radial Wheel in the
photos I linked (i.e. there is another plate below the wheel, out of sight
in the photos)

Photos here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8

If the Radial Wheel gave up the ghost as Chuck suggests could happen, the
emergency tiller would still work. Better than nothing I suppose.

Ken H.


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Thru-hulls or cockpit drains?

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Glen Eddie via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

 

I just looked and see that the thru hulls in the stern of the cockpit of my C&C 
35 Mk I need to be replaced/rebedded.  I plan on using 4200, but my question is 
how difficult a job is this one.  Thanks. 

 



Glen Eddie


Tel:  416-777-5357


Fax:  1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: May-25-20 03:31 PM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

 

This is an external email.

  _  

Wade,

 

If you're referring to the vacuum gauge and fitting Joe linked to, I suspect 
the male thread goes into the bottom of the gauge.

 

If you're referring to the Racor T-Handle set up, here's a link to Touche's 
Racor 500 with an older style Racor vacuum gauge.

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:03 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Joe

Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the fuel 
line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the T go?  
What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to change 
filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?

Wade

Oh Boy 33-2

 

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can do. 
You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced warning 
when you do need to change one.

Be official:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40 

 &_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/ 
  (also can be used 
for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S

 

Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I

 

 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

" so folks will build up the radial drive with reinforcement plates above
and below the wheel and through bolt the attachment point through 3 layers
of metal to mitigate any torsional loads from the ram."

I think that is exactly what has been done to our Radial Wheel in the
photos I linked (i.e. there is another plate below the wheel, out of sight
in the photos)

Photos here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8

If the Radial Wheel gave up the ghost as Chuck suggests could happen, the
emergency tiller would still work. Better than nothing I suppose.

Ken H.

On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 16:58, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The main reasons for having A separate attachment point for the autopilot
> is to provide system redundancy and the fact that the radial Drive is not
> adequately reinforced to withstand single point steering forces.  On the
> radial, steering loads are applied to the perimeter of the wheel spread out
> around the circumference and the casting has reinforced ribs to support the
> radial loads.  If the autopilot ram were to overpower the strength of the
> radial wheel, the wheel could crack or break rendering both the cable
> steering and the linear drive ram inoperative.
> In certain boats like a Landfall 38, there’s just no room for a tiller
> arm, so folks will build up the radial drive with reinforcement plates
> above and below the wheel and through bolt the attachment point through 3
> layers of metal to mitigate any torsional loads from the ram.  Having the
> ram well aligned will help in this application.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 25, 2020, at 3:43 PM, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1ViKUJJeLnRauD47
>
> Here's ours
>
> On Mon, May 25, 2020, 12:22 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Len,
>>
>> Many people will say you should not attach your autopilot to your
>> quadrant, but instead install another independent arm onto the rudder shaft.
>>
>> Still, ours is attached to our quadrant (Radial Wheel) and we've had no
>> problems with it there in 12 years.  We aren't sailing around the world
>> though.
>>
>> Photos here:
>>
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 15:31, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation
>>> to the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck
>>> pics. TIA
>>> Len Mitchell
>>> Crazy Legs
>>> 1989 37+
>>> Midland On.
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my mobile device.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The main reasons for having A separate attachment point for the autopilot is to 
provide system redundancy and the fact that the radial Drive is not adequately 
reinforced to withstand single point steering forces.  On the radial, steering 
loads are applied to the perimeter of the wheel spread out around the 
circumference and the casting has reinforced ribs to support the radial loads.  
If the autopilot ram were to overpower the strength of the radial wheel, the 
wheel could crack or break rendering both the cable steering and the linear 
drive ram inoperative.
In certain boats like a Landfall 38, there’s just no room for a tiller arm, so 
folks will build up the radial drive with reinforcement plates above and below 
the wheel and through bolt the attachment point through 3 layers of metal to 
mitigate any torsional loads from the ram.  Having the ram well aligned will 
help in this application.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2020, at 3:43 PM, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1ViKUJJeLnRauD47
> 
> Here's ours
> 
>> On Mon, May 25, 2020, 12:22 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Len,
>> 
>> Many people will say you should not attach your autopilot to your quadrant, 
>> but instead install another independent arm onto the rudder shaft.
>> 
>> Still, ours is attached to our quadrant (Radial Wheel) and we've had no 
>> problems with it there in 12 years.  We aren't sailing around the world 
>> though.
>> 
>> Photos here: 
>> 
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 15:31, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to 
>>> the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck 
>>> pics. TIA 
>>> Len Mitchell
>>> Crazy Legs
>>> 1989 37+
>>> Midland On. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my mobile device. 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

If it’s for your 37+/40, forget about it.  Quadrant mounting is discouraged by 
Edson.  And the above  deck placement of the radial drive wheel makes it, if 
not impossible, nearly so.

I’m in the midst of my install but it is all below in the aft lazerette.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On May 25, 2020, at 12:36 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 14:30:16 -0400
> From: Len Mitchell 
> To: CNC List 
> Subject: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40
> Message-ID: <42bd6e25-6470-468d-92b2-e2f64d436...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to 
> the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck pics. 
> TIA 
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On. 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1ViKUJJeLnRauD47

Here's ours

On Mon, May 25, 2020, 12:22 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Len,
>
> Many people will say you should not attach your autopilot to your
> quadrant, but instead install another independent arm onto the rudder shaft.
>
> Still, ours is attached to our quadrant (Radial Wheel) and we've had no
> problems with it there in 12 years.  We aren't sailing around the world
> though.
>
> Photos here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 15:31, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation
>> to the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck
>> pics. TIA
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>> Midland On.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Thru hull replacement

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

I just looked and see that the thru hulls in the stern of the cockpit of my C&C 
35 Mk I need to be replaced/rebedded.  I plan on using 4200, but my question is 
how difficult a job is this one.  Thanks.

Glen Eddie
Tel:  416-777-5357
Fax:  1-888-812-2557
Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors
This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: May-25-20 03:31 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

This is an external email.

Wade,

If you're referring to the vacuum gauge and fitting Joe linked to, I suspect 
the male thread goes into the bottom of the gauge.

If you're referring to the Racor T-Handle set up, here's a link to Touche's 
Racor 500 with an older style Racor vacuum gauge.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:03 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Joe
Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the fuel 
line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the T go?  
What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to change 
filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can do. 
You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced warning 
when you do need to change one.

Be official:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/
 (also can be used for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S



Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I



--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Disclaimer

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Wade,

If you're referring to the vacuum gauge and fitting Joe linked to, I
suspect the male thread goes into the bottom of the gauge.

If you're referring to the Racor T-Handle set up, here's a link to Touche's
Racor 500 with an older style Racor vacuum gauge.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:03 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Joe
> Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the
> fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the
> T go?  What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to
> change filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33-2
>
> On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can
>> do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced
>> warning when you do need to change one.
>>
>> Be official:
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0
>>
>> Cockpit mount with light:
>>
>> https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/ (also
>> can be used for manifold vacuum)
>>
>> Cheap:
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S
>>
>>
>> Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>>
>>
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Len,

Many people will say you should not attach your autopilot to your quadrant,
but instead install another independent arm onto the rudder shaft.

Still, ours is attached to our quadrant (Radial Wheel) and we've had no
problems with it there in 12 years.  We aren't sailing around the world
though.

Photos here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GDctE5v2j7jdphxr7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mbUNnFetP4DzAZUW8

Ken H.


On Mon, 25 May 2020 at 15:31, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to
> the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck
> pics. TIA
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
>
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to the 
quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck pics. TIA 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On. 


Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Helicoils

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Reporting back on this issue; I was able to fix the threads with helicoils.  It 
turned out to be a really easy job.  I locally bought a kit with ¼-20 helicoils 
and the tap and threading tool, drilled the holes out, tapped and threaded in 
the helicoils.  I found that they did not feel that tight when screwed in, so 
added some loctite to the outside before putting them in.  Then I used tef-gel 
on the screw threads.  If I had to do this again, I think I would use the 
threaded inserts that come with outer loctite 
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QUZNV8/ref=emc_b_5_t), but the helicoils seem 
fine for now.  A valuable lesson learned on how to repair bad threads.  Thanks 
to the group for pointing me in the right direction.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 14, 2020, at 10:35 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes, you drill the hole bigger and tap for the threads on the outside of the 
> helicoil or thread insert.  The other main advantage of using one of these 
> over just tapping for a larger bolt is in softer base materials (aluminum, 
> plastic) it will distribute the screw load and prevent it from stripping in 
> the first place, at least to a point or damaging the threads when the screw 
> is removed and reinserted.  This is especially important if the screw is one 
> that will be installed and removed every year.  I think that there might also 
> be an advantage in preventing a stainless steel screw from seizing/corroding 
> as it will tend to do over time in tapped aluminum, at least in a salt water 
> environment.  For that reason, I would tend toward using a solid insert such 
> as https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3505 
>  rather than a helicoil if putting 
> a stainless steel screw into threaded aluminum where I want to be sure I can 
> get them apart again.  We had bolt together reusable aluminum frames at my 
> last job with M16 and M24 bolts and used inserts for threaded holes in the 
> aluminum - worked great and we never had issues with stripping or galling of 
> the threads.
> 
> ~~~
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:18 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi David
> 
> Yes, allows the use of the original screw, so whatever is fastening to it 
> doesn't have to be modified.
> 
> Procedure is to drill and tap oversized, and install a helicoil - essentially 
> a coil of square wire, wound up like a spring.  The wire engages in the new 
> threads and is sized so that the original screw threads inside it.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2020-05-14 10:50 p.m., David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> I have seen mention of helicoils several times on this list but I have no 
>> experience with them.  I have several stripped screws on my Harken furler 
>> and was thinking they might be useful to repair.  What is unclear to me from 
>> what I have read is the reason to use them.  I still have threads there, and 
>> I thought the idea was to screw in a helicoil to make the threads grab 
>> again.  However, every description I have seen of using them drills out the 
>> hole, taps and then screws in a helicoil.  I don’t get the point.  If I am 
>> going to drill and tap, why would I use a helicoil instead of just putting a 
>> screw into the newly tapped hole?  Is it that you can use the same size 
>> screw as before instead of going to a larger size?  Is that preferable for 
>> some reason?  Dave
>>   
>> David Knecht
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

My fuel filter is about even with the middle of the tank. My vacuum 
gauge sits right on 0 usually. The Racor gauge has the yellow zone at 7 
inches and the red zone at 10 inches.


Joe

Coquina

On 5/25/2020 12:14 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

Wade,

Look at the picture of a 500 series racor in the link below.  The 
factory top has a t handle which is used to tighten the lid.  The 
vacuum gauge which Joe linked replaces that t-handle.  The t arms are 
not used to sense pressure - just for tightening the lid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172954061164

BTW: these 500 series are notorious for being easily over tightened 
which warps the lid and causes leaks.


The 500 series is 60gph which would be close to 60 times the flow 
capacity required for any one of our engines.  Even with a 2 micron 
filter I would not expect much if any vacuum being formed, though it 
should be noted that the vacuum represents the effort required to 
"lift" the fuel out of the tank AND the effort required to suck the 
fuel through the filter.  Yanmar typically rates their engines for up 
to 10 feet of lift.  Diesel is 34" per psi so 10 feet = ~3.5 psi. Even 
with no filter element installed the vacuum  for 10 feet of vertical 
lift of diesel fuel would amount to 100 inH2O, 3.5psia or 7 inHg.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sun, May 24, 2020, 23:03 Wade Glew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Joe
Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go
in the fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the
threaded base of the T go?  What is a normal pressure? What
pressure reading makes you decide to change filters?  Are the
lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List,
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio
improvements you can do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded
filter changes and get advanced warning when you do need to
change one.

Be official:


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/
(also can be used for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz


https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S


Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I


On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Time and again I have read that Yanmar does not recommend a
2/3 micron primary filter.  I therefore use a 10 micron, and
use Biobar, as well as some Seafoam.   I have some old crud
in my tank, but where I can see it through the hole for the
sender, the bits I can see are pretty well stuck to the
bottom of the tank (and there are not many of them).  That
said, the boat had sat at the dock for +/- 6 years before I
got her, and we have run 150 gallons or so of fuel through
the boat in the last 4 years.

I change my Racor every year, and I used to change the one on
the engine every year as well.  This time, I'm going to let
the engine mounted one go another year.  We still get a fine
layer of black "grit" at the bottom of the racor over the
year, but it does not appear to hinder the running of the
engine.

I'd rather swap out a $20 filter once a year than risk the
engine shutting down as I go through a bridge opening with 3
kts. of current.

To each their own,

Bruce



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