Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

A ton of really good input on this topic.  I sincerely appreciate and value
all of it, as well as everyone on this list very much.  Thank you!

Best regards,
Brian

On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 10:35 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> IMHO, even though used boat values are currently low, the agreed upon
> value should be sufficient to replace the mast and related incidentals
> (boom, shrouds, any deck/hull damage) so the boat isn’t totaled in the
> event of a dismasting.  Although my boat’s in good condition with numerous
> upgrades, I don’t think I could get $50K for her.  Indeed, I paid less than
> that 10 years ago.
>
>
>
> *From:* Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 28, 2022 10:28 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Brian Davis 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?
>
>
>
> I was unaware of this.  Really appreciate it.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 9:25 AM Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Aside from premium increases, the problem with Geico policies – as this
> list exposed – is the annual reduction of part replacement cost for older
> boats until you hit the 20% floor.  As I understand the issue, if I lose my
> mast and the replacement is, say $30K, Geico will pay $6K.  That is totally
> unacceptable.
>
>

-- 
Brian Davis
Brian W Davis Inc
(954) 892-1128

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I was unaware of this.  Really appreciate it.

On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 9:25 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Aside from premium increases, the problem with Geico policies – as this
> list exposed – is the annual reduction of part replacement cost for older
> boats until you hit the 20% floor.  As I understand the issue, if I lose my
> mast and the replacement is, say $30K, Geico will pay $6K.  That is totally
> unacceptable.
>
>
>
> *From:* Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 26, 2022 5:55 PM
> *To:* C Stus List 
> *Cc:* Brian Davis 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Insurance... what is to much?
>
>
>
> I have an insurance question for my fellow C'ers. My wife and I bought
> Nina (1980 Landfall 38) 6 years ago for $25k. I've had Geico Marine ever
> since for an insured value of $30k with a vanishing deductible that is now
> zero. I have since restored her to about 95% and tracked all my receipts in
> a spreadsheet totalling $45k. We are very happy with the result and the
> only remaining 2 projects are a dodger/bimini and replacing the side plexi
> windows.
>
>
>
> I inquired with Geico Marine about increasing the coverage from $30k to
> $70k. I would first need to pay for a surveyor to inspect and write a
> report (I don't know how much this is). Then my rate would go from $1,759
> to $2,372 per year.
>
>
>
> I know this is a sliding scale based on the condition of each boat, and
> I'm cool with the money I've put into her so far since we love her. Nearly
> all of it is parts cost only because I am a skilled craftsman. Is $70k to
> much insurance, and is $2,372 to much to pay for it?
>
>
>
> Would appreciate any thoughts and advice.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Brian
>


-- 
Brian Davis
Brian W Davis Inc
(954) 892-1128

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you Dennis!

On Sun, Jun 26, 2022, 8:13 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'm going through this right now.  I got a letter from my insurance
> company questioning my "agreed value".  Years ago I got a condition and
> value survey for Touche' (1971 35-1) for $40K.  That's what I had it
> insured for.
>
> The letter said the "most recent used boat price guide lists the current
> market value between $15,300 and $17,300".  I don't disagree that
> many sisterboats without upgrades and refurbishments on Yachtworld are
> priced in that range.  As always, value depends on market and condition.
>
> Okay, $40K is a bit high.  I asked if my policy was truly an "agreed
> value" policy.  They said no.  One can insure a boat for way more than it's
> worth but I doubt the insurance provider would happily write a check for
> that amount.
>
> Now what?  If the boat is physically damaged but largely intact, they will
> pay to fix it or total it based on the repair vendor's estimate.  The
> adjuster can look at the boat and hopefully see that it is in much better
> condition than the ones currently on the market.  I will show the adjuster
> the differences and all the upgrades and hope that the adjuster agrees with
> me.
>
> Now what happens if the boat burns and is completely destroyed
> with nothing remaining for the adjuster to look at?  I plan on taking lots
> of pictures and arguing with the adjuster.
>
> Bottom line, I reduced the coverage to $30K.  On a positive note, both my
> premium and my deductible dropped.  The deductible is a percent of the
> covered value.  I see this as a positive.  Most likely, any claim will be
> to repair damages much less than the covered value.  The lower deductible
> works in my favor.
>
> The real value of insurance is in the liability coverage.  That's where
> the potential for big dollar claims lies.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sun, Jun 26, 2022 at 4:55 PM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have an insurance question for my fellow C'ers. My wife and I bought
>> Nina (1980 Landfall 38) 6 years ago for $25k. I've had Geico Marine ever
>> since for an insured value of $30k with a vanishing deductible that is now
>> zero. I have since restored her to about 95% and tracked all my receipts in
>> a spreadsheet totalling $45k. We are very happy with the result and the
>> only remaining 2 projects are a dodger/bimini and replacing the side plexi
>> windows.
>>
>> I inquired with Geico Marine about increasing the coverage from $30k to
>> $70k. I would first need to pay for a surveyor to inspect and write a
>> report (I don't know how much this is). Then my rate would go from $1,759
>> to $2,372 per year.
>>
>> I know this is a sliding scale based on the condition of each boat, and
>> I'm cool with the money I've put into her so far since we love her. Nearly
>> all of it is parts cost only because I am a skilled craftsman. Is $70k to
>> much insurance, and is $2,372 to much to pay for it?
>>
>> Would appreciate any thoughts and advice.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Brian
>>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks, Randy. I actually just checked online with Progressive and they
rejected my quote request with this error message:  "vessel > 35 feet in
length are unacceptable".  What the heck? Lol

On Sun, Jun 26, 2022, 6:16 PM randal johnston via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  ^
>
> What he said. Was also with BoatUS forever, til they changed to Geico
> underwriting, then premiums went thru roof. Now with Progressive. Whichever
> way you go, if you’re racing, make sure you’re covered. Keep liability up
> there.
>
> randy
> Tamanawas
> 29-II
> Hood River, OR
>
> >
>

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks, Alan. I appreciate the good advice. I don't expect to get what I
put into her. I just want to be thoughtful on how I insure her. 

On Sun, Jun 26, 2022, 6:10 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> See what other boats like yours are selling for on Yachtworld.com to give
> you a better idea of what to insure her for. Also get a quote from
> Progressive. I had insurance through BoatUS for decades, but a quote from
> Progressive was less than half of what GEICO wanted. Don't skimp on
> liability insurance. That will cover you if youy damage someone else's
> property, and it's cheaper hthat hull insurance. Things like spars and
> sails are depreciated, unless the boat is totaled. $70k does sound high to
> me. Don't expect to get back what you put into her.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 26, 2022 at 2:55 PM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have an insurance question for my fellow C'ers. My wife and I bought
>> Nina (1980 Landfall 38) 6 years ago for $25k. I've had Geico Marine ever
>> since for an insured value of $30k with a vanishing deductible that is now
>> zero. I have since restored her to about 95% and tracked all my receipts in
>> a spreadsheet totalling $45k. We are very happy with the result and the
>> only remaining 2 projects are a dodger/bimini and replacing the side plexi
>> windows.
>>
>> I inquired with Geico Marine about increasing the coverage from $30k to
>> $70k. I would first need to pay for a surveyor to inspect and write a
>> report (I don't know how much this is). Then my rate would go from $1,759
>> to $2,372 per year.
>>
>> I know this is a sliding scale based on the condition of each boat, and
>> I'm cool with the money I've put into her so far since we love her. Nearly
>> all of it is parts cost only because I am a skilled craftsman. Is $70k to
>> much insurance, and is $2,372 to much to pay for it?
>>
>> Would appreciate any thoughts and advice.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Brian
>>
>

Stus-List Insurance... what is to much?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I have an insurance question for my fellow C'ers. My wife and I bought
Nina (1980 Landfall 38) 6 years ago for $25k. I've had Geico Marine ever
since for an insured value of $30k with a vanishing deductible that is now
zero. I have since restored her to about 95% and tracked all my receipts in
a spreadsheet totalling $45k. We are very happy with the result and the
only remaining 2 projects are a dodger/bimini and replacing the side plexi
windows.

I inquired with Geico Marine about increasing the coverage from $30k to
$70k. I would first need to pay for a surveyor to inspect and write a
report (I don't know how much this is). Then my rate would go from $1,759
to $2,372 per year.

I know this is a sliding scale based on the condition of each boat, and I'm
cool with the money I've put into her so far since we love her. Nearly all
of it is parts cost only because I am a skilled craftsman. Is $70k to much
insurance, and is $2,372 to much to pay for it?

Would appreciate any thoughts and advice.

Regards,
Brian

Stus-List Donations

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hi Stu,

Whats the link for PayPal donations again please? Its been over a year
since I sent you some bucks and I want to show my appreciation again.

Regards,
Brian Davis
West Palm Beach, Florida
s/v Nina
1980 Landfall 38SL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you, Spencer.

Makes sense. I'm in south Florida, so we never get a freeze. I drilled a
couple more holes, dug around with a screwdriver, vacuumed it a lot, and
have had my heat gun blowing in the area for about 3 hours now...at a safe
distance.  Its seems pretty dry, but I'm going to let her set in the sun
for several days. Fortunately, I don't think its to bad. The upper 75%
seems very dry since I drilled out one of the foam fill holes when they
made it.

Overall I think I roll with this fix and monitor it next time I haulout.

Really appreciate having this group to turn to for advice and stories.

Regards,
Brian

On Wed, Jan 5, 2022, 12:04 PM Spencer Johnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Brian...I replaced my rudder in 2018 after years of bringing it home
> over the winter to let it drain out of the rudder-shaft connection.  I gave
> up and had Competition Composites (cci.one) in Ontario repair it.   Their
> computer scanned the rudder, removed the fiberglass and foam confirming
> that the SS post was in good shape (because of the black/brown tarry ooze
> that came out of the rudder I was relieved), then they scanned the shaft.
> After cleaning it all up they used a CNC milling machine to cut two halves
> of hard Divinycell foam - inside and outside - then packed with epoxy.  The
> outside was covered in 2 layers of fiberglass mat, vacuum bagged, then
> faired and primed.  Some pics:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bz49si3Z0GdDd2sxVXNHV1Iwc0E?resourcekey=0-mxt2XK3szmOGKjPR91NARA=sharing
>
> They have a video of the process on the website.  Cost was about 3k but
> the exchange rate US to CDN was quite favorable.  Shipping was not
> cheep...a crate cost about $100 and was very well made.  Rudder weight
> dropped in halffrom 325 to 150 lbs...much easier to reinstall!
>
> Brianif your boat is outside in the frozen tundra you can be sure it
> won't just get better.  I had the yard use G-Flex on the shaft to rudder
> joint...water still got in.  So, not a matter of IF but WHEN.  For me...I
> was done removing the rudder each fall and taking it home so it would not
> freeze.  The new rudder is solid peace of mind.  Good Luck!!
>
> Spencer Johnson
> 84 LF38 "Alegria"  #165
> Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you,  Nathan! I appreciate it. The rudder itself seems super strong
and otherwise very solid. I drilled 2 more holes this morning near where I
did the other spacing them a few inches apart. I got some more water out
but not a lot. I put my shop vac on each one for a while and now I have my
heat gun pointed at it on medium from about a foot away so I don't burn it.
It seems to be drying out

I'll be gone for a few days so that'll give it more time to drain and air
out. Then I'll epoxy it up and carry on.

Regards,
Brian

On Wed, Jan 5, 2022, 10:00 AM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Brian,
>
> There are differing views on wet rudders.  Mine fills up with seawater
> over the season - the first few seasons I drilled a hole near the bottom
> and let it drain while hauled out for the winter (don't want it to freeze
> and break the rudder).  Each spring I filled the hole, sanded, barrier coat
> and paint.  A year ago I installed threaded bronze fitting so that I can
> plug it with a set screw instead of drilling and patching each year.  My
> guess is a previous owner on your boat was doing something similar,
> exploring your rudder for water and perhaps poorly or not at all repairing
> the holes afterwards.  Depending on how you use the boat (e.g. offshore vs.
> coastal cruising) and where, getting it rebuilt may be a good idea or might
> be unnecessary - e.g. is getting help and a tow reasonable if it was to
> fail? The main concern would be if it is still structurally sound or if the
> metal components are too corroded and could fail at some point which is
> hard to tell without opening it up and rebuilding it. There are lots of
> different opinions on how likely a problem is but nearly all older boats
> have wet rudders it seems and they don't appear to fail very often on the
> C at least as far as I know.
>
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> Lynn MA
> 1981 C 34 CB
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Rudder issues

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good morning everyone! Happy New Year!

I've spent the last 2 weeks totally sanding Nina's bottom down to the gel
coat in prep for a new paint job using The Black Widow from Pettit.

I came across some issues with the rudder yesterday and was wondering if
any of you have fixed similar.   After sand it down too, I could tell there
was some glass and bondo work done on the trailing edge. I Dremeled out the
spots and have a great marine epoxy to fill since they aren't deep.

However, there was water dripping from a hole or shaft of sorts on the
underside near the leading edge about a few inches back. I inserted a dowel
stick about 5" up and it seems solid. So drilled a hole where a previous
hole was on the bottom face of the starboard side. About 3oz of water came
out. The yard lead tech suggest I pull the rudder and send to FossFoam near
Gainesville FL to rebuild it. They quoted $2,000 and said that they were
probably the original manufacturer.

Would love to hear your thoughts and experiences.  Here is a link to some
pics.

Regards,
Brian
1980 Landfall 38SL



https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kFXgarL4apwcKsr6cjQxp41_qsU12Kcw
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: What's this thingy?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Brilliant! Thanks John!

On Thu, Dec 23, 2021, 11:22 AM John Read  wrote:

> Helps prevent lobster pot lines getting caught and jammed between rudder
> and hull. And yes it does work
> John Read
> Legacy III
> Noank CT
>
> On Thu, Dec 23, 2021, 11:11 AM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Good day C'ers,
>>
>> Wishing all a very merry Christmas!
>>
>> What's the little stainless steel rod about 2" long that come out of the
>> bottom of the hull just a few inches forward of the rudder?
>>
>> Regards,
>> Brian
>>
>> 1980 Landfall 38SL
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List What's this thingy?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good day C'ers,

Wishing all a very merry Christmas!

What's the little stainless steel rod about 2" long that come out of the
bottom of the hull just a few inches forward of the rudder?

Regards,
Brian

1980 Landfall 38SL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Cutlass Bearings

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks, Mike!

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021, 6:20 PM Mike Macdonald via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Those are about the best you can get
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 20, 2021, at 5:40 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Good evening fellow C'ers.
>
> Hope this email finds you all well.
>
> I've recently hauled Nina, '80 Landfall 38.  Getting ready to sand and
> paint her bottom and hull. Whilst waiting for the south Florida rainy
> season to taper off and cool down some, I'm pulling the prop, changing the
> stuffing box, and figured I would put new cutlass bearings as well.  Is
> there a particular type of cutlass that anyone can recommend?  I was
> looking at this website, but not exactly sure what to consider.  I prefer
> using the absolute best.
>
>
> https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/brass-cutlass-bearing#/specFilters=17!%23-!309!-%23!8m!%23-!36=21=list=15=1
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions and comments.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Cutlass Bearings

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good evening fellow C'ers.

Hope this email finds you all well.

I've recently hauled Nina, '80 Landfall 38.  Getting ready to sand and
paint her bottom and hull. Whilst waiting for the south Florida rainy
season to taper off and cool down some, I'm pulling the prop, changing the
stuffing box, and figured I would put new cutlass bearings as well.  Is
there a particular type of cutlass that anyone can recommend?  I was
looking at this website, but not exactly sure what to consider.  I prefer
using the absolute best.

https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/brass-cutlass-bearing#/specFilters=17!%23-!309!-%23!8m!%23-!36=21=list=15=1

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and comments.

Regards,
Brian
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Traveller Rebuild

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good evening to all,

I am rebuilding my traveller replacing a couple worn out sheaves and ball
bearings, and happened to find a company that has the original parts along
with other rigging and hardware. Thought I would share it with you.

https://www.rigrite.com/index.php

Enjoy, and wishing everyone a very merry Christmas!

Regards,
Brian

1980 Landfall 38SL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Source for Water Tank for C 32?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Kracor is the brand of mine too. But instead of over $400 each, I pulled
both mine under the bench seats and welded them like previously mentioned.
The hardest part was getting them out and using a saw blade to cut the
expanding foam used to stabilize them. JB weld makes a good kit I got at
the local hardware store.  One of my tanks had a stress crack on the bottom
and leaked only when full. I used some wire mesh and spread plastic weld
over it. Worked very good and it's been 2 years without leakage. Also, use
big gap expanding foam Before installing. Meaning gently spray strips going
port to starboard every 6 to 8 inches so it cradles the tank when you set
it. Make sure not to seal around the drain port. Let it set up over night
before filling the tank again.

On Sat, Jul 11, 2020, 11:34 AM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced my 32’s Vee-berth tank with a new one.  Kracor still had the
> mold a few years ago.
>
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C 32, FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> ———-
>
> On Fri, Jul 10, 2020, 22:21 Laserandy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> First post, hope I'm doing this right.
>>
>> We just got a C 32. Took our first cruise last weekend, but discovered
>> while filling the water tank that there’s at least one crack toward the top
>> (went below to find the sound of a gentle waterfall).
>>
>> Does anyone know of a good source for a replacement tank?
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Donation Methods

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks! Just sent you something via PayPal.

Likewise on the cold drinks if you're ever in south Florida!

On Sat, Jul 11, 2020, 11:11 AM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Brian – thank you for your comments.
>
> Payment methods are quite simple:
> 1.  PayPal - https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 2.  Check, money order, cashiers check – make payable to Stu Murray.  Mail
> to:
>  Stu Murray
>  33 Langton Rd
>  London, ON, Canada
>  N5V 2L9
> 3.  If you are in Canada and your bank uses E-transfer – send to
> s...@cncphotoalbum.com
>
> 4.  Finally – you can bring good old cash to my house – cold drinks are
> available.
>
> Thanks everyone
> Stu
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Donation Methods

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good morning, Stus List Moderator.

Can you please provide a refresher on the methods you accept for
donations?  This is a valuable resource and great community and all that's
done to maintain it is greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Brian
S/V Nina
1980 Landfall 38SL
West Palm Beach, FL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I just did this on my floor panels inside and the companion ways steps that
I completely refinished. I wanted to keep the wood semi gloss finish but
then taped off specific patches in areas of concern and sprinkled a rubber
granule called Soft Sand in between coats. Came out wonderful! Pictures are
on my Instagram pages.  Search:  nina1980cc

On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 9:22 AM Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Re concerns on traction, after refinishing the floors with a gloss, I was
> concerned about traction but this has not been an issue for me even when
> the floor is wet.  I'm not sure satin or gloss finishes are really that
> different in terms of traction.  On my boat, rubber soled shoes grip great
> at any heeling level and barefoot is not bad.
>
> I sail on a lake where we don't have heavy seas though.  Offshore / Great
> Lakes boats might want to paint some light level of non-skid in
> regardless of the finish?  Apparently there used to be a product called
> Ultimate Sole that was meant for this application.  Not sure what is out
> there that is equivalent now.
>
> Bailey White
> 1979  C 36
> Atlanta, GA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Throttle cable replacement

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

It's not that difficult.  I spoke directly with Will Keene at Edson Marine
and he got me all the parts plus took the time to walk me through it step
by step. Great guy!!

On Tue, Jul 7, 2020, 10:40 PM Adam via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Very timely as I have been debating changing both the throttle and clutch
> cables.  I have been putting it off some but the clutch is as other Listers
> described full palm to push it into gear.   Is it a difficult job to do?
>
> Adam Hayden
> Pictou N S
> C 36
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good morning,  Someone just got that part. Sorry about that.

On Fri, Jul 10, 2020, 8:44 AM ahycrace via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Brian
> I have a stainless steel hillerange not sure of the model. The control
> wingback of the oven knob is frozen I need that control assembly.  Is your
> stove a stainless steel model and could I send you a picture of the part I
> need. I would be happy to send Stu a contribution as payment.
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
>
>
>  Original message ----
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/9/20 9:09 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Hello C members,
>
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
>
>
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=324224174947=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1
>
> Regards
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Sounds like a plan!

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 10:21 AM Richard Bush  wrote:

>
> Yup! We sail on the Ohio RiverIf you ever get back this way, look us
> up, we'll go sailing!
> Richard
>
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -----Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 10:05 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Louisville,  KY?  I grew up in Jeffersontown just east and went to Male
> High School downtown.  My dad ran the state for NCR corp back in the day.
> Small world.
>
> On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
> Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Hello C members,
>
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
>
>
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=324224174947=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1
>
> Regards
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Louisville,  KY?  I grew up in Jeffersontown just east and went to Male
High School downtown.  My dad ran the state for NCR corp back in the day.
Small world.

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -----Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
> Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Hello C members,
>
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
>
>
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=324224174947=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1
>
> Regards
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I haven't yet just did demo in the main cabin. I'll probably replace it
in the fall. I saw some nice ones at a reasonable price on defender.com

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020, 9:18 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian, what did you install as a replacement? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -----Original Message-
> From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2020 9:05 am
> Subject: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts
>
> Hello C members,
>
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
>
>
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=324224174947=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1
>
> Regards
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hello C members,

If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of
spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link
below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay
shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in
order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=324224174947=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1

Regards
Brian
West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
(954) 892.1128
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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

gt;>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea
>>> panels I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic
>>> there's a green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks
>>> (negative batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting
>>> point and the grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to
>>> make sure I completely "get it".
>>>
>>> Thanks for all your guys help.
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:
>>>
>>> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not
>>> be used as your primary grounding point.
>>> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
>>> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
>>> need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
>>> grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
>>> right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
>>> various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one side of the shunt,
>>> the other side of which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
>>> other accessories that are measured by my battery/power consumption
>>> monitor. This is the shunt that victron provides with the BMV-700.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Brian Davis 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc:
>>> Bcc:
>>> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
>>> Subject: Stus-List Grounding
>>> Hello everyone,
>>>
>>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>>
>>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>>
>>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>>> it.
>>>
>>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
>>> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
>>> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>>
>>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>>> for review.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Brian
>>> South FL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Joe Della Barba 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc:
>>> Bcc:
>>> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:52:37 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>>
>>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>>
>>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking
>>> of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>>
>>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>>
>>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>>> la

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>>
>>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>>
>>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking
>>> of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>>
>>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>>
>>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>>> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
>>> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
>>> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
>>> wire.
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe Coquina
>>> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>>
>>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>>
>>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>>
>>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>>> it.
>>>
>>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
>>> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
>>> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>>
>>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>>> for review.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Brian
>>> South FL
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>> CnC-List mailing list
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Brian Davis
>> 1980 C Landfall 38
>> "Nina"
>> Southeast Florida
>>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Got it. Thank you to ALL!

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 8:52 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Negative battery goes to the ground buss too.  ONE wire from the ground
> buss to the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020, 08:12 Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gotcha.  I sent you my diagram. Just want to make sure I'm clear.  So the
>> Grounding bus and the Negative battery both connect to the same engine bolt?
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:10 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> You do run a wire to the engine, usually 2 gauge, but only one. Many
>>> boats ends up using the engine block as a ground bus with wires hooked up
>>> all over it.
>>>
>>> Joe
>>> On 5/30/2020 8:01 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, Joe!
>>>
>>> I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus
>>> link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not
>>> the engine then where?
>>>
>>> Brian
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>>>
>>>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking
>>>> of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>>>
>>>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>>>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>>>
>>>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>>>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>>>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>>>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>>>> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
>>>> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
>>>> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
>>>> wire.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Joe Coquina
>>>> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hello everyone,
>>>>
>>>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>>>
>>>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>>>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>>>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>>>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>>>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>>>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>>>
>>>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>>>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>>>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>>>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>>>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>>>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>>>> it.
>>>>
>>>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to
>>>> one of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection.
>>>> However I kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>>>
>>>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>>>> for review.
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Brian
>>>> South FL
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>>>
>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>>
>>>> _

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Gotcha.  I sent you my diagram. Just want to make sure I'm clear.  So the
Grounding bus and the Negative battery both connect to the same engine bolt?

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:10 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You do run a wire to the engine, usually 2 gauge, but only one. Many boats
> ends up using the engine block as a ground bus with wires hooked up all
> over it.
>
> Joe
> On 5/30/2020 8:01 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Thanks, Joe!
>
> I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus
> link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not
> the engine then where?
>
> Brian
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>
>>
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>
>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of
>> AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>
>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>
>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
>> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
>> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
>> wire.
>>
>>
>> Joe Coquina
>> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>
>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>
>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>> it.
>>
>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
>> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
>> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>
>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>> for review.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Brian
>> South FL
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks, Joe!

I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus
link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not
the engine then where?

Brian

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>
>
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>
> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of
> AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>
> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to be
> a routine conductor of electricity.
>
> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
> wire.
>
>
> Joe Coquina
> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>
> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
> scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
> bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
> She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
> in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
> wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>
> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
> it.
>
> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>
> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
> review.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> South FL
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the grounding
point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for the 3
battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several appliances
including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel
tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine
to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one of
the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
review.

Regards,
Brian
South FL
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Re: Stus-List water pump seal

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Yes. I just rebuilt my water pump on a yanmar 3qm30h. It was not that hard
actually. I ordered a major rebuild kit off Ebay. Once you clean the
housing the new bearings will seem very snug going in, which is normal.
Take a large socket that fits the outside rim of the bearing and use a
hammer to tap it in. Don't kill it and ensure its aligned straight. It will
pop in place. I used a little packing grease in bith the bearings to help
seal it.

I've just rebuilt the yanmar and you can see it all on Instagram. My
account is nina1980cc

Good luck, and feel free to email or call me with any questions.

Regards,
Brian
brianwdavis...@gmail.com
954.892.1128

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 3:36 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any one have experience pressing in a new seal
> in the 3gm raw water pump.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gerry
> Fianna 1985 35 MK3
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Ahoy!

Check out marine_parts_source on Ebay. They have all of the Blue Sea
circuit breakers. I just ordered some and they are $14.99 each.

Make sure you disconnect your batteries before serving. ☺

Regards from South FL,

Brian

On Fri, May 29, 2020, 1:06 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED:  Circuit
> Breaker Panel 2.jpg
> 
>
> Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg
>
> Shared with Dropbox
>
> 
>
> The bottom one is broken.
>
> I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1
>
> Does anyone know where I might find the right replacement?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Gori 3 blade Prop 16.5" x 12 Sail Drive LH

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

If anyone is looking for a great deal on a Gori prop, please let me know.
Free shipping to lower 48 states. I'll knock off $200 for any member of
this list. Below is a link to my listing.

Regards,
Brian
West Palm Beach, FL

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=323992229926=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1

>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: 3 blade prop question

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you! Appreciate the info and link.

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019, 12:56 PM Mike Taylor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian
>
> I have a three blade Campbell Sailor and am very pleased.
>
> http://www.westbynorth.com/campbell-sailer/
>
> Mike
> C 37
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> *From:* Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> *Date:* October 20, 2019 at 10:36:23 AM EDT
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis 
> *Subject:* *Stus-List 3 blade prop question*
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 3 blade prop question

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you very much for your email, Doug!

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019, 11:03 AM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> HI Brian,
> I had a LF38 (hull #4) with the same issues you're complaining about.
> Inefficiency while motoring, almost non-existence reverse. I installed a
> fixed pitch 3 blade prop. While it did help with motoring, reverse was not
> much better. On my new (to me) LF39, which came with a max prop. All I can
> say is wow! What a difference. motoring forward is better than the 2 blade
> and about equal to the fixed 3 blade. Reverse is a whole  new world. That
> being said. I had the Paragon transmission which I could leave is neutral
> while sailing. Letting the prop freewheel. I think the dimension for the
> fixed prop were 18x11. I was told you want 1 less inch of pitch over the 2
> blade. $3300 for the MAX prop is a lot swallow.I hope I answered at least
> some of your questions.
>
> Doug
>
> here are a couple of articles on prop comparisons
>
> https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807
>
> https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/44_2/features/Folding-vs-Feathering-Props_12354-1.html
> https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/why-low-drag-propellers
>
> On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 7:36 AM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Good day fellow C'ers,
>>
>> I currently have a 2 blade prop on our Landfall 38SL (1980).  The control
>> while in reverse is barely anything and I'm considering a 3 blade. I
>> understand I'll lose some efficiency, but I'd prefer better motoring
>> control. I've read about the prop in the below link, but was wondering what
>> some of you have in regards to diameter and pitch. I know my shaft is 1
>> 1/8".
>>
>> Appreciate your help.
>>
>> Michigan Wheel 18 inch 3 Blade Sailer 3 bronze SL33B18B prop
>>
>> https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/18-sailer3-3-blade-bronze?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7DtBRCLARIsAGCJWBrM4rjywTB6pMhu5xTu6fZMXarnoJezC-QbExaUHfxbZJkXXuWqe8waAvUEEALw_wcB
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> LF39
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 3 blade prop question

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good day fellow C'ers,

I currently have a 2 blade prop on our Landfall 38SL (1980).  The control
while in reverse is barely anything and I'm considering a 3 blade. I
understand I'll lose some efficiency, but I'd prefer better motoring
control. I've read about the prop in the below link, but was wondering what
some of you have in regards to diameter and pitch. I know my shaft is 1
1/8".

Appreciate your help.

Michigan Wheel 18 inch 3 Blade Sailer 3 bronze SL33B18B prop
https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/18-sailer3-3-blade-bronze?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7DtBRCLARIsAGCJWBrM4rjywTB6pMhu5xTu6fZMXarnoJezC-QbExaUHfxbZJkXXuWqe8waAvUEEALw_wcB
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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Love the words of wisdom from all of you experienced sailors!  Thank you!

<https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
<https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass
> in the case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the
> control line on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces
> twist.
>
>
>
> The topping lift has two main purposes:
>
> It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay
>
> It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your
> mainsail
>
>
>
> And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do
> when you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going
> sailing.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM
> *To:* C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered
> getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack
> to it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which
> can induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping
> lift.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my 

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Great recommendation, thanks!  I just talked to Rob there.  Very helpful.
This one would fit my 38LF and seems reasonable at $495 plus ship.

https://www.garhauerstore.com/rigid-boom-vang-rv20-1-sl.html

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 11:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Garhauer boom vangs are the best value. Many on the list have them.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 2, 2017, at 9:24 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks, Gary.  I've noticed that boom vang pole on other boats in my
> marina.  Does anyone know where I can find one reasonably priced, or does
> somebody have an extra that they are willing to part with?
>
> On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
>> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
>> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
>> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
>> ago.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> 30-1
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
>> Davis via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
>> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
>> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
>> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
>> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
>> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
>> amazing job documenting his work.
>>
>>
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Brian,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
>> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
>> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
>> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
>> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
>> boom has room to be lifted.
>>
>>
>>
>> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on
>> the boom just forward of the dodger.
>>
>>
>>
>> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
>> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
>> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
>> that yours is a 37?
>>
>>
>>
>> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>>
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>> 1989 C 37+
>>
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Greetings everyone,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
>> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
>> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
>> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
>> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
>> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
>> looking for some guidance.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> --
>>
>> Brian Davis
>&

Re: Stus-List Siphoning bilge pump hose?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I recently redid the bilge hose and replaced the check valve with a brand
new one as well.  Your experience and assessment makes sense if you don't
have a check valve.


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On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:26 AM, Joe Boyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We had a nasty scare last night after our Wednesday night race.  We were
> motoring back to the dock - about a half hour trip and I climbed down the
> companionway into about 2 inches of bay water.  The bilge was full and
> overflowing as we motored along.  Inspection revealed no leaks that i could
> see from the engine compartment - shaft log, water pump, muffler and
> exhaust and thru hulls were all fine.  I jump up to the head and check all
> 3 thru hulls there - all dry.
>
> We finally get the auto bilge pump working and pumped all the water out -
> and no more leak.  I believe that the float switch may have been stuck.
>
> So here's my theory - under power the 30 MK1 tends to squat and the bilge
> outlet is below the water on the stern.  We had had rain the week before
> and I had neglected to turn on the manual switch to get out the last of any
> water in the bilge - the float switch always leaves a few cupfuls in the
> bilge.  I am thinking that while under way with the outlet submerged, the
> bilge pump cycled on.  Then - as usual - the remaining water in the hose
> flowed back into the bilge.  But this time with the outlet underwater, it
> started water siphoning into the boat.
>
> After cleaning it all up I checked it in the morning - and it was dry as
> usual.  The bilge hose has a high loop in it but no air  break or check
> valve.
>
> I am thinking a check valve or an air break would keep this from happening
> again - any opinions would be welcome.
>
> Oh - and I think I will fix the manual bilge pump that I have been putting
> off for a while!
>
> thanks,
>
> Joe
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I liked the Stella Blue website. Very good documentation.

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> Southeast Florida
>
> [image:
> https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]
>
>
>
> [image:
> https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks, Gary.  I've noticed that boom vang pole on other boats in my
marina.  Does anyone know where I can find one reasonably priced, or does
somebody have an extra that they are willing to part with?

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> Southeast Florida
>
> [image:
> https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]
>
>
>
> [image:
> https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is suppor

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
you have pictures as well please email me some directly.

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
amazing job documenting his work.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Brian,
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
> Regards,
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
> Southeast Florida
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
> <#m_72217012970531_m_7834295882684719431_m_-5469201269122569337_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks for the quick reply.  That a pic from the previous owner.  I there
is no rigged boom vangI assume that's the "pole thing" that supports
the boomanyhow, there's not one.

Look forward to learning more when you have time.   No rush.

Regards,
Brian

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 2:53 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From the picture you have a rigid boom vang.
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Greetings everyone,
>>
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
>> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
>> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
>> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
>> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
>> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
>> looking for some guidance.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> --
>> Brian Davis
>> 1980 C Landfall 38
>> "Nina"
>> Southeast Florida
>>
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>> <#m_3752047062999743361_m_1407520801177528360_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List furling line

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I replaced my recently and went with 5/16.  Email Steven below for a
quote.  I paid $0.59 per foot for Sta Set.  Good guy and responsive.


*www.offshorespars.com* 

Steven King | President

direct: +1 586-213-1031 <(586)%20213-1031>

mobile: +1 419-349-1029 <(419)%20349-1029>

skype: steveking8

50200 E. Russell Schmidt Blvd.

Chesterfield, Michigan 48051




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On Mon, May 29, 2017 at 11:28 AM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looks line I have to replace the furling line on Liberty"s furling drum.
> What was the name of that mail order company that sells
> reasonable priced quality line I just cant remember it.   ( Old timers
> syndrome.  )
>
>
>   Gary
>
>   "Liberty"
>
>38' MK II
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Thoughts to those in Matthew's path

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Dear fellow sailors,

Sorry for my delayed reply.  I've been out of pocket for a few days due to
work.  My wife and I live aboard our '80 Landfall 38 in North Palm Beach.
By the grace of God we escaped the brunt of Matthew without a scratch.  I
had "spider webbed" Nina in our slip with about 2 dozen dock lines giving
enough slack for tidal surge, etc.  I believe our average wind speeds
during the storm were about 50mph with gusts to 75.  The marina where we
are is considered a hurricane hole and it lived up to that designation.  We
obviously did not ride out the storm on board, but rather went to some
friends house for a couple days.  We feel extremely fortunate.  Areas
further north such as Jacksonville were not as fortunate from what I hear.

I has been 11 years since we had a hurricane of significance here in south
FL (Wilma), and I'm hoping for another 11 year stretch after this one.

God bless to everyone.

Regards,
Brian Davis




On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 10:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hope all in Matthew's path remain safe.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandevile, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Main Sail Halyard

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you all very much for the replies.
On May 18, 2016 3:38 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian — I changed out several years ago as well.  And as part of my mast
> rewire/maintenance this year, I’ve changed out the masthead sheaves (two
> jibs and one main) for single-groove Acetal sheaves, so there’s no going
> back…   :^)
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 18, 2016, at 2:22 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yes, changed my halyards out to all rope many years ago.  It is much
> better all around!
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On May 18, 2016, at 3:19 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Has anyone replaced the halyard for the main with all Dacron? Mine is half
> stainless wire and half rope, which seems original based on the owners
> manual for the Landfall.  The rope part on mine is in bad shape, but the
> wire seems good.  Regardless, I'm thinking of replacing it all out with new
> rope.
>
> Also, does anybody else have an Alado roller furling (alado.com).  I know
> it's an older model, cut seems in good shape.  Just confused about how the
> halyards feed through the top pulley piece.  This top piece on most other
> sailboats seems to slide down and up.  Mine is stationary at the top and I
> know the halyards are fed through properly...
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Main Sail Halyard

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Has anyone replaced the halyard for the main with all Dacron? Mine is half
stainless wire and half rope, which seems original based on the owners
manual for the Landfall.  The rope part on mine is in bad shape, but the
wire seems good.  Regardless, I'm thinking of replacing it all out with new
rope.

Also, does anybody else have an Alado roller furling (alado.com).  I know
it's an older model, cut seems in good shape.  Just confused about how the
halyards feed through the top pulley piece.  This top piece on most other
sailboats seems to slide down and up.  Mine is stationary at the top and I
know the halyards are fed through properly...

Thanks,


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you.  Finally found the metal plate.  Yes, it's a 3QM30.

Regards,
Brian

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On Mon, May 16, 2016 at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian — that will probably be a 3QM30 Yanmar.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 16, 2016, at 1:45 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.
>
> I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does
> anybody have the same and knows the difference?
>
> Thanks and regards,
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
___

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greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.

I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does anybody
have the same and knows the difference?

Thanks and regards,

-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"


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Re: Stus-List IKommunicate Signal K device

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Extremely cool project! Enjoy!
On May 12, 2016 6:28 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My box arrives today. Not sure when I'll get it hooked up or how to use
> it. The perfect project!
> Joel
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I think you should try minor adjustments 1st. Then, if you need to open the
trany cover and move the shaft while in neutral and inspect the oil level.

I tested mine today after I rebuilt it and installed. A couple minor
adjusts in the reverse band nut and one small one to the forward.  She
seems to run great and my reverse is now engaging when I hold it firm. I
had taken pics and saved all my notes and will share soon.

Good luck.
On May 11, 2016 10:07 PM, "Ainslie via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> My 35-3 has the same issue. The PO advised me about it, and we
> experienced it a bit while sailing her home last fall. Launched and sailed
> today and it was knocking a little more than last fall. But I recall
> someone on the list said to make sure the shifter lever is hard ahead. Mine
> wasn’t. When I held the lever there, no knocking at all through the rpm
> range. Do you think I can adjust the cable or levers to hold the shifter
> firmly in Fwd, or am I still looking at lapping the cones? The bungee cord
> was my friend today!
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
>
> C 35-3
>
> Bayfield, ON
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* May-11-16 2:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>
>
>
> Guys this is fantastic information (and hopefully not too expensive)!
> Thanks to everybody for all the info. If I end up doing the work to remove
> the transmission I'll do my best to document the process for posterity.
>
>
> On May 10, 2016, at 11:17 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you
>
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=icon>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=link>
>
> <#m_3626966532873275723_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up
> here in Canada! .
>
> I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the
> mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did
> not do complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop
> class back in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t
> rotate in use.)
>
> Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with
> a punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash
> will show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit.
>
>
>
> Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site
> with photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear
> puller.
>
>
>
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 1
>
> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400
>
> From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>
> Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you


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On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up
> here in Canada! .
>
> I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the
> mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did
> not do complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop
> class back in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t
> rotate in use.)
>
> Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with
> a punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash
> will show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit.
>
>
>
> Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site
> with photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear
> puller.
>
>
>
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 1
>
> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400
>
> From: "Rick Brass" 
>
> To: 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>
> Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List composting head

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

There's a big named the Atlantic ocean...  lol
On May 10, 2016 1:16 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a composting head?
>
> I am really thinking about this – the 35 MK I really has no room for much
> of a holding tank.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I with a small holding tank
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I'm curious about the lapping compound procedure you described. I just
finished replacing the brake band that engages the reverse gear in my
Paragon transmission.  I got everything put back together perfectly, cut
new gaskets, and adjusted both forward and reverse to what seemed logical.
Runs smooth and forward works great, but I'm getting some slipping in
reverse.  Trying to carefully adjust it further tonight when I get there.
Am thinking now about picking up a jar of the lapping compound.  How was it
to apply? And did you basically just apply a thin coat on the drum as you
turned it..?

Thanks for sharing.
Brian

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 8:46 AM, Brian Davis 
wrote:

> Hi Dave,
>
> Is the lapping compound you used something like this?
>
>
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> 1980 Landfall 38
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse
>> thing as well as the low rpm banging only.
>> The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical
>> surface on each each end that mates with one mating female cone for
>> forward,  and the other mating female cone for reverse.In neutral, the
>> conical clutch sits between both and engages neither.  Forward is used a
>> lot more, therefore it glazes first.
>> As to rpm- these boats do not have thrust bearings so the prop thrust
>> pushes forward on the engine/trans and ultimately the mounts.   It does so
>> via the trans, so the thrust overcomes the slip at a certain point and the
>> banging stops.
>> Before long it will slip irrespective of rpm, and get so bad that you
>> will think the strut will be sheared off the hull.
>> Per instructions in the internet I used valve lapping compound.  Did not
>> rebuild the gearbox, only lapped the cones.  the halves use no gaskets,
>> just silicone.
>> I used a punch to mark the orientation of the cone and any other parts
>> and was very careful to clean any residual lapping compound out of the
>> transmission.
>> Worked perfectly.
>> Make sure you secure the prop shaft so it can't fall out.
>>
>>
>> Dave.
>>
>> Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
>> From: Andrew Means 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Boat: 1977 C 34
>> Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
>> Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop
>>
>> Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it
>> almost feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like
>> a piece of kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400
>> or so the roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_5010582712356372377_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>



-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Is the lapping compound you used something like this?

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx

Regards,
Brian
1980 Landfall 38



On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse
> thing as well as the low rpm banging only.
> The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical
> surface on each each end that mates with one mating female cone for
> forward,  and the other mating female cone for reverse.In neutral, the
> conical clutch sits between both and engages neither.  Forward is used a
> lot more, therefore it glazes first.
> As to rpm- these boats do not have thrust bearings so the prop thrust
> pushes forward on the engine/trans and ultimately the mounts.   It does so
> via the trans, so the thrust overcomes the slip at a certain point and the
> banging stops.
> Before long it will slip irrespective of rpm, and get so bad that you will
> think the strut will be sheared off the hull.
> Per instructions in the internet I used valve lapping compound.  Did not
> rebuild the gearbox, only lapped the cones.  the halves use no gaskets,
> just silicone.
> I used a punch to mark the orientation of the cone and any other parts and
> was very careful to clean any residual lapping compound out of the
> transmission.
> Worked perfectly.
> Make sure you secure the prop shaft so it can't fall out.
>
>
> Dave.
>
> Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
> From: Andrew Means 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Boat: 1977 C 34
> Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
> Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop
>
> Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it
> almost feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like
> a piece of kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400
> or so the roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"


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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good advice...except my arms are more like the late Rowdy Roddy Piper and
it still took me 3 days of disassembly and reassembly.  You definitely
become more intimate with your drive train and engine compartment.  I think
I could pull it now while underway.  Lol.


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On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 4:14 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> YES
>
> This is caused by slippage inside the transmission - a bronze cone mates
> against an iron anti-cone ...I guess, and the surfaces become glazed
> and slip.   bang bang bang  like a broken prop.
>
> These are the exact symptoms I experienced and only after spending a great
> deal of money on mounts (needed) a new prop, (needed) cutlass bearing
> (needed) and shaft (probably not needed) did I figure out the real
> problem.
> Sick of shovelling cash around, and with the boat in the water, I  took
> the gearbox out myself (2 hrs or less, in a 33-2) stripped it, lapped the
> internal bronze cones against their mating surfaces, and reassembled.   Was
> back in action in 24 hours at a cost of around $40.   Helps to have a
> physique and arms like Gollum.
>
> Good chance to clean some of the surfaces where cables ground to the
> engine.
>
> do not delay fixing this, it will get progressively worse, occur more
> frequently., then will really start to slam, and could be uncooperative
> when you need it most.
>
>
> Dave
>
> Windstar, 33-2, Whitby ON.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 9 May 2016 09:14:46 -0700
> From: Andrew Means 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ugh - that sounds expensive. I?ll see about holding the lever down, maybe
> it just needs tensioning??
>
> --?
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> On May 9, 2016 at 9:12:16 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List (
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>
> I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the
> transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and
> eventually discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before
> having a mechanic aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission.
> All better now since having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help
> as well.?
>
> Derek McLeod?
> Aileron, 1983 29MK2
> Toronto, ON
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> >
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Sounds like it could be a transmission issue. Especially since you only
hear it in forward and not reverse.  Not sure of your engine/Trans
placement, but in my Landfall 38, I have a vdrive, so the trans is right
there behind the steps and access panel. If there's a plate or cover,
remove it and you maybe able to diagnose it visually. The forward may just
need adjusting...  if you have a Paragon sa0 or sa1, email me directly and
I maybe able to help.  I just finished pulling, fixing, and reinstalling
mine and saved a couple $k at least...

brianwdavis...@gmail.com

Brian
1980 Landfall 38
"Nina"
On May 9, 2016 12:15 PM, "Andrew Means via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ugh - that sounds expensive. I’ll see about holding the lever down, maybe
> it just needs tensioning…
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> On May 9, 2016 at 9:12:16 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List (
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>
> I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the
> transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and
> eventually discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before
> having a mechanic aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission.
> All better now since having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help
> as well.
>
> Derek McLeod
> Aileron, 1983 29MK2
> Toronto, ON
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot & Refrigeration

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Can somebody please send me that battery monitor link.

Thanks
brianwdavis...@gmail.com
On May 6, 2016 7:49 AM, "schiller via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The biggest problem on Corsair is the Main Halyard exit.  The main halyard
> is right above the partner with a spinnaker turning block just forward and
> above that.  Any wrap that I do has to split around it.  I have a couple of
> motorcycle inner tubes that I think I will split and try to redo a boot.
> The last boot was self fusing tape.  I might try that over the inner tube
> after putting some boatlife caulk around the spartite.
>
> On another note, I finished the refrigeration installation yesterday.  I
> didn't document the installation like Dennis did, but basically the same
> thing.  Still need to add in some additional foam under the counter top and
> will add some additional foam in place around the box.  Adding foam to the
> lid will require a little engineering as the evaporator sits close to the
> lid.  I did have to trim the grate for the evaporator.  Cooled the ice box
> down to 37 degrees in about an hour yesterday when I fired it up.  Draws
> about 6 amps at start up and 5 amps running.  Will have to see what the
> duty cycle is as I use it.  Luckily, I bought one of the battery monitors
> that Joe Della Barba posted so I will be able to count amp-hours.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> soon to be in Whitehall, Mi
> On 5/4/2016 4:32 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have 2 inch gray self fusing tape on Touché. Put on several overlapping
> wraps. In my opinion, it's the best. Been on for several years now and is
> still in good condition. Absolutely leak tight once you fill the main sail
> slot with sealant like LifeSeal.
>
> The gray blends in with the aluminum mast and collar so it's barely
> noticeable. Highly recommended.
>
> Bought it on eBay.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 4, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ok folks,
>
> I need a new mast boot.  I've seen the poured rubber block that is more or
> less permanent.  Wally has a write up about how he did it on Stella Blue
> and I saw it first hand on Jake's boat.  I like it but I think it is too
> big of a commitment right now.  Until then, I'm thinking of using the
> self-vulcanizing rubber tape that is 6" wide.  Having used similar products
> like "Rescue Tape" for other projects, I expect that I'll need a length
> that is at least 3 times the circumference of my mast collar (35" * 3 =
> 105").
>
> Does anybody have any thoughts on the best way to do this job, or which
> product is best?
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission - Reverse

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

No, not sure what a folding prop is.  It's a vdrive and the Paragon trans
has a friction brake clamp to engage the reverse when shifted.  I didn't
know that you had to hold the gear shifter firmly into reverse after
shifting...hence the slipping.  I learned this after trying to adjust the
brake clamp via the instructions that came with the boat from the PO.
That's when the clamp itself cracked and broke.  I have the original trans
and can swap out the part.  Just can't get the tranny pulled from the
engine... I should have never tried to tighten it and investigated more
about the nature of this type of tranny.  Ugh...live and learn.  At least
I'm at the marina when this all happened.

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On Thu, May 5, 2016 at 10:46 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian
>
>
>
> I think earlier you mentioned that you have a folding prop.  Reverse with
> a Martec Folding prop takes a lot longer to bite than does a fixed or even
> geared prop.  I wonder if maybe that was your “slipping” in reverse?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Not in Florida
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 05, 2016 11:26 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission
>
>
>
> Yikes!!  Yes, that is similar to mine recently...my reverse was slipping
> and as I came into a marina (slowly)... reverse had no effect and we almost
> kissed a $1 million yacht.  I thought that owner was going to have a heart
> attack like I almost did.  I kneeled down and kissed the dock once we tied
> up at the slip.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Yikes!!  Yes, that is similar to mine recently...my reverse was slipping
and as I came into a marina (slowly)... reverse had no effect and we almost
kissed a $1 million yacht.  I thought that owner was going to have a heart
attack like I almost did.  I kneeled down and kissed the dock once we tied
up at the slip.

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On Thu, May 5, 2016 at 10:04 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian — you’re far more adventurous than I am… I stick to electron-based
> stuff when I can…   :^)
>
> Sorry, I don’t have any advice for you — but if I see our crack mechanic
> for the area this weekend when up at the boat, I’ll ask him.  My worst
> transmission experience came a few years back when I went in and adjusted
> the forward ear detent before taking some friends and their kids out for a
> sail; the locking bolt was still loose, and when I backed out of the slip,
> the bolt backed out and the transmission basically unscrewed its innards
> and stuck in neutral.  So I got to shut the engine down and steer/drift to
> the nearest dock, where we disembarked our guests with apologies…   :^(
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 5, 2016, at 8:43 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just curious if anyone else has had trouble removing the transmission from
> their boat? My LF 38 has a Paragon Vdrive connected to a Yanmar 30hp.  The
> Vdrive came off without issue and I got the bolts completely out of the
> trans that go into the bell housing.  I've been told that it should "come
> right out", but I can even get it to budge.  It was newly installed 3 years
> ago by the PO and has been way inland in dry dock until a month ago.  So I
> wouldn't think its corroded that badly if at all...at least it doesn't look
> that way.  Maybe they used a sealant...which I was told it doesn't need
> since it's a dry fit.  I've tried a mallet and piece of wood to smack the
> front and rear of itnothing...smacked it pretty darn good too.  I like
> to think I'm a pretty strong and young guy...and I ate my biscuits n gravy
> 2 mornings in a row nowstill nothing.  Any tips or tricks that anybody
> has used with success?
>
> Regards,
> Brian
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Seasickness

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

My experience has been to take it about 1-2 hours before heading out. Also,
as long as I'm driving the boat I'm fine...it's when I'm not and I go down
below that things get strange..  Focus on the horizon and maintain a good
breathing pace always helps me too.  Although lately I haven't been seasick
at all..  A friend has been using a Dramamine patch and said it works even
better.  Not sure if that's a prescription or not.


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On Thu, May 5, 2016 at 9:51 AM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Does anyone have an opinion or experience with Dramamine vs Scopolamine??
> If one takes Dramamine, should it be taken for 1-2 days before heading out?
>
> I've used Scopolamine before and it was moderately effective, but i'll be
> going on a long rough passage on the outside of of Vancouver Island next
> week and was wondering about trying Dramamine.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Just curious if anyone else has had trouble removing the transmission from
their boat? My LF 38 has a Paragon Vdrive connected to a Yanmar 30hp.  The
Vdrive came off without issue and I got the bolts completely out of the
trans that go into the bell housing.  I've been told that it should "come
right out", but I can even get it to budge.  It was newly installed 3 years
ago by the PO and has been way inland in dry dock until a month ago.  So I
wouldn't think its corroded that badly if at all...at least it doesn't look
that way.  Maybe they used a sealant...which I was told it doesn't need
since it's a dry fit.  I've tried a mallet and piece of wood to smack the
front and rear of itnothing...smacked it pretty darn good too.  I like
to think I'm a pretty strong and young guy...and I ate my biscuits n gravy
2 mornings in a row nowstill nothing.  Any tips or tricks that anybody
has used with success?

Regards,
Brian

On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 9:31 AM, Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thank you, Doug.  I appreciate the support and advice.  I successfully
> removed the vdrive late last night without to much trouble...while
> listening to the relaxing sounds of the storm that passed through.  Lol.  I
> also got the bolts off the trans that connect to the yanmar, but she's not
> budging.  It was late so I decided to pause for the day and resume after
> work today again.  It is heavy indeed since I still have the old one the PO
> saved.  I'm canceling my gym membership after carrying it to and from my
> storage unit to the boat. I'm thinking the gasket is probably sticking and
> she needs some encouragement of sorts, but I don't want to start hammering
> on it and have it come out and land on the shaft.  So, I'm not sure of the
> best approach to next steps...  Also, I'm not totally sure what you mean by
> "In the curved adapter is a universal joint that is splined to the
> transmission output shaft."  The Vdrive pulled right off after
> disconnecting the cooling hoses...
>
> Thanks again for the input.  She's a beautiful boat and I'm enjoying
> finishing up the restoration that the PO started.
>
> Regards,
>
> Brian
>
> On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 7:50 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Brian, and welcome. I have the Paragon trans and V-drive in Pegasus. I
>> was told by a marine mechanic (that repaired paragons) that you have to
>> hold it in reverse. There is no detent. As for removing it yourself. Pull
>> the V-drive first, remove it from the transmission. In the curved adapter
>> is a universal joint that is splined to the transmission output shaft. Next
>> remove the transmission. Carefull it is heavy. Good luck. You have a great
>> boat.
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>>
>> svPegasus
>>
>> LF38 1979
>>
>> just west of Ballard, WA.
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Original message--
>>
>> *From: *Brian Davis via CnC-List
>>
>> *Date: *Tue, May 3, 2016 11:53
>>
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>>
>> *Cc: *Brian Davis;
>>
>> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission
>>
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzo7ugqxmzlhv9w/paragon.pdf?dl=0
>>
>> Here is a picture of the break..
>>
>> On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Dear Members,
>>>
>>> I'm new to the list, but have found a lot of beneficial reading
>>> belonging to the list.  I purchased a 1980 Landfall 38 SL a couple of
>>> months ago.  "Nina" was in dry dock at Indiantown Marina in Florida for
>>> nearly 3 years before I bought her.  We launched her 4 weeks ago and
>>> motored her down to North Palm Beach pending the availability of our slip
>>> further south.  The halyards are in desperate need of replacing, which is
>>> why we motored the whole way...plus the diesel needed a good running after
>>> so long anyhow. The fuel was 3 years old, but had stabilizer.  Amazingly,
>>> she fired right up and purred like a tiger the whole way...  She's a
>>> beautiful vessel for sure!!
>>>
>>> The PO did a lot of restorations to her one of which was a complete
>>> rebuild of the Yanmar 30hp and Vdrive.  The Paragon transmission he
>>> replaced as well and he happed to find one in Michigan that was still brand
>>> new from 1980...believe it our not.  I'm having an issue with the Reverse
>>> gear engaging and wondering if it's me or the trans.  When I carefully
>>> shift her into Reverse she does seem to fully engage or stay in gear.  I'm
>>> getting 

Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C MK II 30"

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

For Pete's sake don't freeze the beer!!!   Lol


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On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 3:54 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ditto, especially for long offshore.  Careful, it will freeze your beer.
> The box can handle the low temperatures without cracking.  If concerned,
> figure out a way to keep the ice from direct contact with the box.
>
>
>
> With regard to carbon dioxide build up;  the volume of CO2 would have to
> fill the icebox and then spill over into the cabin area.  With the amount
> of air moving through boat on any typical day, it’s highly likely to flush
> out a good % of the CO2 .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 04, 2016 1:57 PM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C MK II 30"
>
>
>
> We have used it offshore to augment 12v refrig to keep battery consumption
> down.   Never had a problem.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> --
>
> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 14:37:57 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C MK II 30"
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: primeinter...@gmail.com
>
> Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen
> in the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.
>
> Ed
>
> QCYC Toronto
>
> On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
> ice.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___ This list is supported by
> the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help
> us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
>
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Inaccessible area in forward section of dining table in LF 38

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I would love it if somebody could email me pictures of how the table looks.
I have some of the pieces, but seems like I'm missing some.. just bought my
38 LF. I know I'll end up customizing something, but I like woodworking.
I'll eventually share pics just need some concept thoughts.

Regards,
Brian
...in rainy south FL
brianwdavis...@gmail.com
On May 4, 2016 2:47 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> On my LF 38 the fixed (central) portion of the dining table is accessible
> underneath via two opening lids.  Storage in the aft section is big and
> handles two gallon-size liquor bottles.  In the forward section, the
> compartment handles one gallon-size liquor bottle and then there is a tray
> about 1.5 to 2 inches deep and about 6 inches long.  The tray is not
> removable.  Has anyone ever accessed the area under this tray in any way?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
> Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On May 4, 2016, at 2:37 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen
> in the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.
>
> Ed
>
> QCYC Toronto
> On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
>> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
>> ice.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you, Doug.  I appreciate the support and advice.  I successfully
removed the vdrive late last night without to much trouble...while
listening to the relaxing sounds of the storm that passed through.  Lol.  I
also got the bolts off the trans that connect to the yanmar, but she's not
budging.  It was late so I decided to pause for the day and resume after
work today again.  It is heavy indeed since I still have the old one the PO
saved.  I'm canceling my gym membership after carrying it to and from my
storage unit to the boat. I'm thinking the gasket is probably sticking and
she needs some encouragement of sorts, but I don't want to start hammering
on it and have it come out and land on the shaft.  So, I'm not sure of the
best approach to next steps...  Also, I'm not totally sure what you mean by
"In the curved adapter is a universal joint that is splined to the
transmission output shaft."  The Vdrive pulled right off after
disconnecting the cooling hoses...

Thanks again for the input.  She's a beautiful boat and I'm enjoying
finishing up the restoration that the PO started.

Regards,

Brian

On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 7:50 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:

> Hi Brian, and welcome. I have the Paragon trans and V-drive in Pegasus. I
> was told by a marine mechanic (that repaired paragons) that you have to
> hold it in reverse. There is no detent. As for removing it yourself. Pull
> the V-drive first, remove it from the transmission. In the curved adapter
> is a universal joint that is splined to the transmission output shaft. Next
> remove the transmission. Carefull it is heavy. Good luck. You have a great
> boat.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38 1979
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Brian Davis via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Tue, May 3, 2016 11:53
>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>
> *Cc: *Brian Davis;
>
> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission
>
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzo7ugqxmzlhv9w/paragon.pdf?dl=0
>
> Here is a picture of the break..
>
> On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dear Members,
>>
>> I'm new to the list, but have found a lot of beneficial reading belonging
>> to the list.  I purchased a 1980 Landfall 38 SL a couple of months ago.
>> "Nina" was in dry dock at Indiantown Marina in Florida for nearly 3 years
>> before I bought her.  We launched her 4 weeks ago and motored her down to
>> North Palm Beach pending the availability of our slip further south.
>> The halyards are in desperate need of replacing, which is why we motored
>> the whole way...plus the diesel needed a good running after so long
>> anyhow. The fuel was 3 years old, but had stabilizer.  Amazingly, she fired
>> right up and purred like a tiger the whole way...  She's a beautiful vessel
>> for sure!!
>>
>> The PO did a lot of restorations to her one of which was a complete
>> rebuild of the Yanmar 30hp and Vdrive.  The Paragon transmission he
>> replaced as well and he happed to find one in Michigan that was still brand
>> new from 1980...believe it our not.  I'm having an issue with the Reverse
>> gear engaging and wondering if it's me or the trans.  When I carefully
>> shift her into Reverse she does seem to fully engage or stay in gear.  I'm
>> getting mixed feedback and hoping that somebody with the same set up can
>> clarify.  The shifter is on the wheel column while the throttle is on the
>> side of the cockpit.  Should I have to continuously hold the shifter down
>> in reverse to keep it engaged??  Forward works great and there is a
>> positive lock or click once I engage the shifter up into gear.  However,
>> once back off on the throttle, move it to neutral, then into reverse, and
>> then giver her juice it doesn't seem to either slow the boat or move into
>> reverse.
>>
>> To make matters worse, I was reading the Paragon instruction sheet that I
>> received from the PO and I attempted to "adjust" it as directed.  I made
>> about a 1/2  to 3/4 turn (not torqueing by any means) and it cracked.
>> After several inappropriate words to myself, I was able to contact a local
>> trans shop and they said it must be removed and brought in and completely
>> taken apart in order to replace the part.  I happen to have the original
>> trans so I hope I can pull that piece and reuse it...otherwise they said it
>> could take months to get a replacement piece.
>>
>> After a conversation with the PO he sent me the number of the place in
>> Michigan where he bought it.  I spoke with them and sent 

Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you, Rick.  I'll investigate the cable length.  I appreciate the
shared experience.

Regards,
Brian

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On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I haven’t had a Paragon transmission since a Newport 28 with an A4. But on
> that boat you had to hold the lever in reverse, there was no detent.
>
>
>
> My 38 originally had an A4 and Paragon, but was converted to diesel with a
> Hurth transmission about 15 years ago. I do know, from some previous
> repairs, that the Paragon transmission used a specific shift cable because
> of the longer wire length and travel distance needed for the Paragon shift
> linkage. Is it possible that PO used an incorrect cable? Or is it the fat
> cable used with a Paragon?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 03, 2016 2:33 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Paragon Transmission
>
>
>
> Dear Members,
>
>
>
> I'm new to the list, but have found a lot of beneficial reading belonging
> to the list.  I purchased a 1980 Landfall 38 SL a couple of months ago.
> "Nina" was in dry dock at Indiantown Marina in Florida for nearly 3 years
> before I bought her.  We launched her 4 weeks ago and motored her down to
> North Palm Beach pending the availability of our slip further south.
> The halyards are in desperate need of replacing, which is why we motored
> the whole way...plus the diesel needed a good running after so long
> anyhow. The fuel was 3 years old, but had stabilizer.  Amazingly, she fired
> right up and purred like a tiger the whole way...  She's a beautiful vessel
> for sure!!
>
>
>
> The PO did a lot of restorations to her one of which was a complete
> rebuild of the Yanmar 30hp and Vdrive.  The Paragon transmission he
> replaced as well and he happed to find one in Michigan that was still brand
> new from 1980...believe it our not.  I'm having an issue with the Reverse
> gear engaging and wondering if it's me or the trans.  When I carefully
> shift her into Reverse she does seem to fully engage or stay in gear.  I'm
> getting mixed feedback and hoping that somebody with the same set up can
> clarify.  The shifter is on the wheel column while the throttle is on the
> side of the cockpit.  Should I have to continuously hold the shifter down
> in reverse to keep it engaged??  Forward works great and there is a
> positive lock or click once I engage the shifter up into gear.  However,
> once back off on the throttle, move it to neutral, then into reverse, and
> then giver her juice it doesn't seem to either slow the boat or move into
> reverse.
>
>
>
> To make matters worse, I was reading the Paragon instruction sheet that I
> received from the PO and I attempted to "adjust" it as directed.  I made
> about a 1/2  to 3/4 turn (not torqueing by any means) and it cracked.
> After several inappropriate words to myself, I was able to contact a local
> trans shop and they said it must be removed and brought in and completely
> taken apart in order to replace the part.  I happen to have the original
> trans so I hope I can pull that piece and reuse it...otherwise they said it
> could take months to get a replacement piece.
>
>
>
> After a conversation with the PO he sent me the number of the place in
> Michigan where he bought it.  I spoke with them and sent the
> picswaiting to hear back from them on advice.  In the meantime I wanted
> to reach out to my fellow C owners for advice.  I'm very handy and am
> considering pulling the trans and replacing it myself.  Suggestions are
> welcome!  But, I'm still curious as to why the reverse wasn't engaging
> thoughts?
>
>
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Brian Davis
>
> ..dead in the water, but at least at a marina in sunny FL..
>
>
>
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzo7ugqxmzlhv9w/paragon.pdf?dl=0

Here is a picture of the break..

On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dear Members,
>
> I'm new to the list, but have found a lot of beneficial reading belonging
> to the list.  I purchased a 1980 Landfall 38 SL a couple of months ago.
> "Nina" was in dry dock at Indiantown Marina in Florida for nearly 3 years
> before I bought her.  We launched her 4 weeks ago and motored her down to
> North Palm Beach pending the availability of our slip further south.
> The halyards are in desperate need of replacing, which is why we motored
> the whole way...plus the diesel needed a good running after so long
> anyhow. The fuel was 3 years old, but had stabilizer.  Amazingly, she fired
> right up and purred like a tiger the whole way...  She's a beautiful vessel
> for sure!!
>
> The PO did a lot of restorations to her one of which was a complete
> rebuild of the Yanmar 30hp and Vdrive.  The Paragon transmission he
> replaced as well and he happed to find one in Michigan that was still brand
> new from 1980...believe it our not.  I'm having an issue with the Reverse
> gear engaging and wondering if it's me or the trans.  When I carefully
> shift her into Reverse she does seem to fully engage or stay in gear.  I'm
> getting mixed feedback and hoping that somebody with the same set up can
> clarify.  The shifter is on the wheel column while the throttle is on the
> side of the cockpit.  Should I have to continuously hold the shifter down
> in reverse to keep it engaged??  Forward works great and there is a
> positive lock or click once I engage the shifter up into gear.  However,
> once back off on the throttle, move it to neutral, then into reverse, and
> then giver her juice it doesn't seem to either slow the boat or move into
> reverse.
>
> To make matters worse, I was reading the Paragon instruction sheet that I
> received from the PO and I attempted to "adjust" it as directed.  I made
> about a 1/2  to 3/4 turn (not torqueing by any means) and it cracked.
> After several inappropriate words to myself, I was able to contact a local
> trans shop and they said it must be removed and brought in and completely
> taken apart in order to replace the part.  I happen to have the original
> trans so I hope I can pull that piece and reuse it...otherwise they said it
> could take months to get a replacement piece.
>
> After a conversation with the PO he sent me the number of the place in
> Michigan where he bought it.  I spoke with them and sent the
> picswaiting to hear back from them on advice.  In the meantime I wanted
> to reach out to my fellow C owners for advice.  I'm very handy and am
> considering pulling the trans and replacing it myself.  Suggestions are
> welcome!  But, I'm still curious as to why the reverse wasn't engaging
> thoughts?
>
> Kind regards,
> Brian Davis
> ..dead in the water, but at least at a marina in sunny FL..
>
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Dear Members,

I'm new to the list, but have found a lot of beneficial reading belonging
to the list.  I purchased a 1980 Landfall 38 SL a couple of months ago.
"Nina" was in dry dock at Indiantown Marina in Florida for nearly 3 years
before I bought her.  We launched her 4 weeks ago and motored her down to
North Palm Beach pending the availability of our slip further south.
The halyards are in desperate need of replacing, which is why we motored
the whole way...plus the diesel needed a good running after so long
anyhow. The fuel was 3 years old, but had stabilizer.  Amazingly, she fired
right up and purred like a tiger the whole way...  She's a beautiful vessel
for sure!!

The PO did a lot of restorations to her one of which was a complete rebuild
of the Yanmar 30hp and Vdrive.  The Paragon transmission he replaced as
well and he happed to find one in Michigan that was still brand new from
1980...believe it our not.  I'm having an issue with the Reverse gear
engaging and wondering if it's me or the trans.  When I carefully shift her
into Reverse she does seem to fully engage or stay in gear.  I'm getting
mixed feedback and hoping that somebody with the same set up can clarify.
The shifter is on the wheel column while the throttle is on the side of the
cockpit.  Should I have to continuously hold the shifter down in reverse to
keep it engaged??  Forward works great and there is a positive lock or
click once I engage the shifter up into gear.  However, once back off on
the throttle, move it to neutral, then into reverse, and then giver her
juice it doesn't seem to either slow the boat or move into reverse.

To make matters worse, I was reading the Paragon instruction sheet that I
received from the PO and I attempted to "adjust" it as directed.  I made
about a 1/2  to 3/4 turn (not torqueing by any means) and it cracked.
After several inappropriate words to myself, I was able to contact a local
trans shop and they said it must be removed and brought in and completely
taken apart in order to replace the part.  I happen to have the original
trans so I hope I can pull that piece and reuse it...otherwise they said it
could take months to get a replacement piece.

After a conversation with the PO he sent me the number of the place in
Michigan where he bought it.  I spoke with them and sent the
picswaiting to hear back from them on advice.  In the meantime I wanted
to reach out to my fellow C owners for advice.  I'm very handy and am
considering pulling the trans and replacing it myself.  Suggestions are
welcome!  But, I'm still curious as to why the reverse wasn't engaging
thoughts?

Kind regards,
Brian Davis
..dead in the water, but at least at a marina in sunny FL..


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Re: Stus-List Adding weatherproof USB port

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

This is awesome! Thank you for sharing. I was just thinking about looking
for this..
On Apr 29, 2016 11:00 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> All,
>
> I wanted to add a USB port at the helm without a nav-pod.  I was searching
> for something already wired to avoid corrosion above deck.
>
> Found that motorcycle USB ports mount on the binnacle guard and have wires
> long enough to reach blow deck.
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Brand-New-Cliff-Top%C2%AE-Motorcycle-Magnetic/dp/B00QTA1G7Q?ie=UTF8=1=true_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

If I'm not mistaken, I believe that Tohatsu  and Nissan Marine are the same
motor.  I had a 18 hp 4 stroke Nissan on a 15 ft Seaeagle inflatable for
several years and it started every time and ran great. I think you'll have
no worries with the Tohatsu.

Brian
'80 Landfall 38
Nina
On Apr 27, 2016 7:16 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does
> anybody have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was
> considering the manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and
> lower?
>
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Frank Gehry - German Frers designed sailboat

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Extremely cool!!  Thanks for sharing.

Brian
'80 LF38
On Apr 25, 2016 11:42 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is something  Interesting!  She looks fast!
>
>
> http://www.townandcountrymag.com/leisure/sporting/news/a3650/gehry-yacht-foggy/
>
> Danny
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Maybe they weighed it in Arizonaless humidity.   LOL
On Apr 23, 2016 11:40 PM, "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude
> that my boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and empty
> tanks.  Put onboard her sail inventory, ground tackle, sheets & dock lines,
> gas grill, motor oil etc., full tank of gas, and she jumps to 9200.  I
> don't know how C computed the 8000 pounds in the brochure for a 30-1.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"randy stafford" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:38:38 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re:  Early 30-1 Interior
> Doors)
>
> Thanks for the displacement data Michael.
>
> I have HIN 30007972 - hull #7 laid up in September 1972 if I'm decoding
> correctly.
>
> She has tiller steering and the Atomic-4 gasoline engine, rigged for
> spinnaker (pole chocked on deck) and roller-furling boom.  Two batteries,
> two sets of primary winches, two danforth anchors with chain / rope rode,
> fairly extensive sail inventory. Everything else is basic and standard, or
> very lightweight optional stuff.  For racing I can remove an anchor and
> many of the sails, and sail with empty tanks, etc.
>
> I'll report back to the list after I've calculated her weight from truck
> scale differences between loaded & unloaded trailer.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Michael Brown via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Michael Brown" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:38:37 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
>
> I have a C 30  "77" model year.
> From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976.
>
> ...
>
> At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at 8500
> - 8800 lbs.
> Some of the C specs claimed 7,900 lbs which may have been possible
> stripped out,
> one battery and tiller steering. I think in race trim carrying stuff like
> flares, anchor and rode,
> #1 - #3 - spinnakers, spin and whisker pole  I would guess 10,000 lbs
> is reasonable.
> ...
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
> C Sailors-
>
> I noticed the owner of C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list.
> It's awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this
> community.
>
>
> ...
>
> Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and
> the brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks
> it's higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by
> differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I
> launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
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>
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>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ or XL Refrigeration

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

The unit on my 1980 landfall 38 is air cooled.  I've been reading some of
other threads on here and it's seems like a new unit runs about $1300. I
want to convert mine to a freezer/cooler combo...
On Apr 20, 2016 11:51 AM, "John Pennie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ed:
>
> If it’s water cooled you would see a line running off the compressor and
> (hopefully) to a thru-hull.  Assuming you’re just seeing 2 wires and the
> copper refrigerant lines (2) you’re good to go in the water as it is air
> cooled.
>
> John
>
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> One of my near-future projects on the Enterprise is to replace the
> refrigeration unit which broke some years ago. The one I have appears to be
> two pieces - a panel/basket in the ice chest and a compressor in the aft
> cabin hanging locker. I have no idea if it is water cooled or air cooled (I
> can’t see any through hull lines or any venting) and, since I know nothing
> about it, did not want to pull the old one out in fears of turning the boat
> into a liquid asset.
>
> So: 1. Is it safe to pull out the old unit while the boat is in the water?
> and 2. Can anyone recommend a good replacement unit that will keep the
> chest cool?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Governor issues?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I have the same motor in my 1980 Landfall 38 that I bought 2 months ago.  I
had a similar issue with getting her started after knowing it was sitting
for over 2 years. The PO put stabilizer and filled the tank with diesel. I
chanel the fuel filter and the battery banks, bit she wouldn't start.
Cranked over strong but seemed starved for fuel. The problem happened to be
that I didn't have the throttle opened far enough.  I felt dumb, but I'll
take that. Haven't had any issues with the governor.  Motor runs like a
champ and just wants to keep going.
On Apr 20, 2016 10:15 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> HI all.  Josh Muckley and I have been working on my Yanmar 3GM30F together
> via email.  This list is without a doubt the best source of sailboat
> information I have encountered.  With Josh’s help for diesel issues, Fred
> for electronics and all the other experience it is a treasure for owners.
> I don’t think I can express enough how great this is.
>
>
>
> We launched Persistence April 4 and our 3GM30F ran fine.  Ran fine April 8
> as well and then on April 9 when scheduled to step mast the motor would not
> start.  Appeared starved of fuel.  Over the past 10 days we have bled the
> low pressure lines, bypassed the mechanical lift fuel pump with 12v pump,
> primed and bled everything many times, check at injectors and eventually
> deducted no fuel coming from injector pump but plenty of air free fuel
> going to it.  Eventually removed the injector pump and have had it
> serviced.  With the pump out we have noticed the governor lever is not
> moving freely.  This appears to be most likely caused by the governor
> sleeve being too far aft
>
>
>
> With all the experience in this list has anyone with a  yanmar 2gm or 3gm
> of any sort had problems diagnosed with the governor?  Initial inspection
> thru injector pump opening looks like the governor weights may be slightly
> bent out of position.  Timing cover must come off to inspect further
>
>
>
> Just hoping for pearls of wisdom from our great list
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> Dead in the Water
>
> In Halifax, NS
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I'd like to see some pics please.

brianwdavis...@gmail.com


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On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 11:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.
> Cold beer!!!
>
> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

My 1980 Landfall 38 that I just bought recently had a small hand pump, but
no drain.  I was checking it out this weekend and will probably install one
that drains into the sink drain so it doesn't go into the bilge.  A "Y"
connector should to the trick so it doesn't back up into the sink.  I
removed the small pump and got a bigger hand one from West Marine for $30.
I really want to redo the entire refrigeration with a better compressor
than the cold plate version that's in her now...  Has anybody rebuilt
there's to be a freezer/frig?


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On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:27 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think on the smaller, older boats, the ice box just drained to the
> bilge. On my 27, the PO had a small hand pump (my impression was it was
> added later) but it went to a milk jug jammed in next to the engine. If it
> pumps up to the sink, how is it physically attached to the sink?.
>
> *From:* Tom Lynch via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, April 18, 2016 8:47 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tom Lynch 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
>
> Yup,
>
> My 1985 33II has the small hand pump accessed from under the galley sink.
>
> Tom Lynch
> Escape (to be renamed Indo-Irish)
> C 33 MK II
> Bayfield, WI
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 10:33 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think the pump on the cooler drain was standard on that era of boats,
>> our 84 29'er had it, so does our 84 35'er.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> On 18 April 2016 at 07:22, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler
>>> drain and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is
>>> original or was installed by a PO.
>>>
>>> As for the head, do you mean the sink won’t drain or the head itself?
>>>
>>> Mike Amirault
>>> C Lovely Cruise
>>> SMSC NS.
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> --
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