Stus-List 2019 Rendezvous Gumbo

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

2019 rendezvous recipe for Gumbo.

This recipe is optimized for a pressure   cooker, though not necessary.

Dice 1 lb andouille sausage.
Add 1 tbsp olive oil to pressure  cooker and heat to almost smoking with
medium flame.
Add sausage. Stir occasionally as sausage browns.

Meanwhile roast a large poblanos pepper over a flame , a boat/camp toaster
works well for this.
Peel and Dice the poblanos, dice also a medium yellow and red pepper and a
medium yellow onion and a jalapeno, and peel and slice 6 garlic cloves.

Add this to the pot with the sausage. Stir occasionally until veggies are
just sauteed.
Remove from pot and reserve to the side.
Add water to the pot to half full. Put heat to high.
Debone a chicken, place the bones in the water. Peel 1 lb of shrimp, put
shells in water.
Dice chicken meat, set aside.
Dice shrimp, set aside.
Add 1 onion 2 celery, 2 carrots 2 bay leaves and some thyme to water.
Bring to a boil. Put on pressure lid and pressure cook for 1.5 hrs. (Or
simmer 4 hours)
During that time in another heavy bottom pot melt 1 stick butter over
medium heat. Add approximately 3/4 cup flour and stir. Add enough flour
that the roux is not runny, but not so much that it is pasty.
Stir CONTINUOUSLY with a flat bladed spatula so as to not burn the roux.
The roux will toast and get dark, you want mahogany color. When butter
begins to come out of the roux you are done.
Remove from heat and add 2 tablespoons tomato paste, stirring constantly
with the roux. This will become thick and pasty. Chop it up in the bottom
of the pan. Set pan aside.
Turn off pressure cooker and let cool down naturally.
Open lid.
Spoon out the stock and whisk into the roux 1 cup at a time. Once all stock
is incorporated
Season the base with ground cumin , ground coriander, anchor Chile powder,
fresh black pepper, salt, and file powder. I dont have measurements, but
about 1 part cumin, 2 parts coriander, 2 parts Chile powder, and 4 parts
file powder.

Once your seasoning is where you like it  and the base is simmering  add
the diced  chicken.
10 minutes later add the diced shrimp
5 minutes later add the sausage and peppers and 2 bags frozen okra.
Bring to temp. Use medium heat and stir frequently as it may scorch over
high heat.


Cook white rice.

Stir 1 bunch chopped cilantro leaves into gumbo and serve over rice.

I served the gumbo with the rice in it as it was more convenient.


I'm glad everyone seemed to enjoy it.
Hit me up if you need clarification .

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon

On Tue, Oct 22, 2019, 2:03 PM  wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  St Michael's rendezvous (Robert Boyer)
>2. Re:  Engine cut out in rough seas (Derek McLeod)
>3.  Baltimore Rendezvous 2020  idea (CHARLES SCHEAFFER)
>4. Re:  Baltimore Rendezvous 2020  idea (Robert Boyer)
>5. Re:  [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Engine cut out in rough seas
>   (Della Barba, Joe)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 13:26:55 -0400
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley , Margaret Ennis
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List St Michael's rendezvous
> Message-ID: <656fa999-88ed-4609-9ea1-0723e5076...@icloud.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Josh:
>
> You did a great job of organizing the rendezvous!  Thank you very much!
>
> If the rendezvous will be a week before the sailboat show next year and we
> can hold it at Anchorage Marina in Baltimore, Maggie and I will be glad to
> organize it and give you a break.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> > On Oct 22, 2019, at 10:19 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > To all those who thanked me for my organizing efforts, you're very
> welcome.  I try to remind everyone that what I do is pretty insignificant
> considering the efforts which we all put forth to attend.  I also like to
> remind everyone that this is not MY Rendezvous.  If someone has interest in
> organizing or thinks that they can do something better I am eager for the
> help.
> >
> > We got home last night at about 6:30pm.  We still had time to pump out
> in mostly daylight.  As predicted the winds were straight from behind us at
> 15kts once we turned south onto the bay.  They were also predicted to die
> off around 2pm.  We went wing and wing with the 145% genny poled out.
> Speed was good and while the winds were greater than 7 or 

Stus-List Free 35'

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Is it still unclaimed?I may know a guy.S/V La Neige1993 C 37/40 XLHavre de Grace , MDFB blog : thenext14yearsBrian and Manon___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Winter cover for 37/40

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I have a cover, complete frame and clamps. Cover is usable, a few minor
tears. If you can pick it up you can have it for a donation to Stu.
___

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Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I use rock climbing gear. An ascender with webbing loops attached , and a
self belay gri gri on my harness. I use 2 different halyards. I can get up
my 37/40 fairly quickly, reach the spreader tips, and stand in the loops to
do work on equipment at the top.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Sail plan and heavy weather.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

After spending a wonderful weekend with a bunch of great folks, Manon and I
sailed back to
Havre de Grace under the strongest conditions we have been in yet. We
usually stay put if the forecast is over 20. The forecast was 20s with
gusts to 30+. I was looking forward to testing my new rig, especially since
Josh allowed me to use his Loos gauge to check my rig job. Turns out my
tune was quite true. We had been out before, but only at a max of about 20.
We set sail at the yellow mark outside Nap with 2 reefs in the main and a
full 100 jib.
Everything was going well, a nice beam reach, until north of the bridge
when the swells got larger and the gusts stronger. The gusts would push us
over to the rails in the water and last for a good 30 seconds, then a swell
would push us a little further. A few times we lost depth indication, a
tell that the transducer was out of the water, or nearly so. Reefing the
jib to 50% made things much more comfortable. We sailed the whole way back
under these conditions. Entering HdG channel was challenging, putting us
close hauled and tacking up the channel to where it ran abeam again.
Thankfully my new sonar allowed for greater tacks outside of the channel,
which freaked out the Admiral. I decided to tack instead of motoring and
dropping sail to avoid turning the sails into rags in the 25 knot winds (
mine are of unknown age).
So now the question, when do you reef? How much wind is too much?
We usually do the first reef at 15, the second at 20, then the jib at 25. I
am thinking 35 sustained would be my limit. But I havent been out in that
yet.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Rendezvous

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for a great weekend. The ride home was a blast. 25 with
gusts to 30 on the beam and a rear quarter sea 4-5 ft.
___

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Stus-List Chainplates

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
material. All solid.
Yes the flange prevents making an easy fix, you do have to remove the
chainplate to get at the material to be removed. On mine, the leaks were
more of an issue with the bolts, not the plate. Still haven't replaced the
chainplates, I am having stainless ones made. Also haven't concluded which
material to use for sealing. I may do butyl on one side and polysulfide on
the other to see which holds up best.
I will say butyl would not cause as much of an issues when removing them
the next time as the caulking did this time.


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
___

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Stus-List Wax

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

There is one way to compare different techniques and products and I would
be willing to sacrifice my deck to a side by side comparison. Everyone side
by side this Saturday. I will judge and not interfere with technique.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Mast step Stringers

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thank you Ken.. Very helpful. I will take another look. I do have an access
hole drilled thru one of the stringers to be able to torque one of the
bolts, If I recall it is not hollow. There are also bilge drain holes from
bay to bay, again they are not hollow.

I agree the drawings show no material inside, but then what would the mast
step plate be screwed to?

My concern is that they are bulging.
I take it yours don't have the bulging issue?

Any thoughts on injecting epoxy?
Thanks again.


> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2018 06:27:52 -0300
> From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast step stringers
> Message-ID:
> <CAAbfP6TcwvtcRwgE5Y3X_1k3t21An8XBkDf6XQzJY9RkKuyRAA@
> mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hello Brian,
>
> I would be very surprised to find there was any wood inside the 'stringers'
> on a C 37/40.  There is no mention of wood used in any part of this
> boat's construction anywhere (except in the sole, in bulkheads and
> cabinetry) in any documents I have see for these hulls.
>
> I was sure the `stringers` were either completely hollow or there was
> perhaps foam inside, but only to hold their shape while they are tabbbed to
> the hull on initial construction.  One `stringer` just aft of the two that
> support the mast step, has a large hole drilled in the top to access a keel
> bolt.  It is completely hollow.
>
>
> Here is a link to the construction drawing for that hull:
>
> Here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKYTJxRDJBc3BvLWM/
> view?usp=sharing
>
> and here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKcDd4ZlhWNGZzdmM/
> view?usp=sharing
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On 10 April 2018 at 22:37, Brian Fry via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> > 1993 37/40.
> > Redoing the rod rigging, mast is down. Removed the aluminum mast step to
> > media blast and powder coat.
> > There are three `stringers` the mast step sits on. The forward and aft
> > stringers,which the step is bolted to, are bulging. Tapping on them
> reveals
> > a delamination inside.
> > I am thinking this is caused by forces from the adjustable mast crushing
> > the laminate wood inside. The bay this is in is too high to be caused by
> > water intrusion.
> > Anyone else experiencing this?
> > The plan is to drill holes and inject epoxy, then bolt on a suupport
> piece
> > of 1/2" aluminum across the face, bolted into the solid parts of the
> > stringer.
> > Any input is welcome.
> >
> > S/V La Neige
> > 1993 C 37/40 XL
> > Havre de Grace , MD
> > FB blog : thenext14years
> > Brian and Manon
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> >
> >
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> com/attachments/20180411/f086594e/attachment-0001.html>
>
> --
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2018 09:20:27 -0300
> From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast step stringers
> Message-ID:
> <CAAbfP6TpLoKmqxxSubHrhWFnWRYdPGws7Ws9pevyadBLR06CeA@mail.
> gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Part 2
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> The  'stringers' you refer to are the Structural Floors I think.  Those
> drawings can be downloaded from the links provided.  They are big, about 3'
> by 4' so it is best to download them and view them in a pdf viewer that
> will let you zoom way in.
>
> There is a detail on those drawings as follows:
>
> STRUCTURAL FLOORS
> 1. 2 LAYERS KEVLAR HYBRID
> 2. 1 LAYER KEVLAR HYBRID ON TOP ONLY
> 3. 3 LAYERS OF 18oz./1oz. FABMAT
>
> Here is a link to that detail from the Construction Drawing:
> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlxOeqGWYe0/Ws39SyZcQGI/AAAB1fc/
> 0fUCvVSqzqYEHiiwFZ67HeLvKyk0Lsr1gCLcBGAs/s1600/Construction%
> 2BDetail%2Bfor%2Bthe%2B37%252B%2BMay%2B28%252C%2B1988-1.jpg
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Mast step stringers

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

1993 37/40.
Redoing the rod rigging, mast is down. Removed the aluminum mast step to
media blast and powder coat.
There are three `stringers` the mast step sits on. The forward and aft
stringers,which the step is bolted to, are bulging. Tapping on them reveals
a delamination inside.
I am thinking this is caused by forces from the adjustable mast crushing
the laminate wood inside. The bay this is in is too high to be caused by
water intrusion.
Anyone else experiencing this?
The plan is to drill holes and inject epoxy, then bolt on a suupport piece
of 1/2" aluminum across the face, bolted into the solid parts of the
stringer.
Any input is welcome.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Spreaders

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I have the mast down and have noticed a different angle on my starboard
spreaders compared to the port.
A few questions:
Does anyone know the brand used in the 37/40?
How do you remove the spreader base which goes.through the mast?

La Neige
1993 37/40 xl
Brian Fry
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Small lead weight.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

To keep the line hanging straight down in the water to prevent wrapping the
rode around the keel in a calm Anchorage?
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Jib trade?

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I have a 37/40 xl. We have a racing jib on board that we are considering
cutting and modifying for a cruiser friendly jib. It has battn pockets ( no
battens) and goes all the way to the deck. No uv fabric. It has only been
used 2 seasons so is in good shape.
Anyone have a cruising jib to trade?
Just looking to swap for a jib with uv cover and reefing points.


S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor links.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Splicing the chain to the rode only fixes half the problem. What about the
other end that attaches to the stainless fitting at the anchor?
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Anchor links

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

During a change of the anchor I found a well corroded link. It is the first
link connecting the rode shackle to the line. The shackle is stainless. The
chain is galvanized. Is this a case of dissimilar metals?
If it is I can put a galvanized shackle, but where the chain attached too
the anchor is a stainless mantus swivel, so the issue would be the same.
What do I do besides all stainless chain? If that is possible.
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Annapolis boat show.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Anyone coming to the show? I am at Baysail in vacation basin. Stop and say
hi.
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Riggers in Annapolis

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I got 3 quotes for standing rigging replacement (rod),  mast and boom strip
and paint. 2 were for 19000, 1 was for 12000.
M Yachts, Annapolis Rigging, and the Rigging Company, not in that order.
Any experience with any of the three?


S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C 38 Auction

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum auction on Sept 2 includes a C 38.
This is a no reserve auction. I have not seen the boat, but pics are
available online through Flickr.
http://cbmm.org/boat-donation/4039-cc-38-mk-ii-sloop/
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List B Network Pilot display needed.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

My Pilot display is malfunctioning. The course number continuously scrolls
down like the <1 button is stuck. None of the other buttons will work. This
leaves the ACP in standby.
Does anyone have a unit they have removed that still works?

Can I use another model to replace since this model is no longer made?

Can I just hookup the ACP 2 to my Furuno Chartplotter instead and use that
to control the Autopilot?


S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

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Stus-List Rules of the road.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I was heading south out of Annapolis on a port tack. Power boat which
looked like a Crabber type is heading north on a course which will take me
across his bow with at least 100 yards or more clearance. As it is that he
is heading north I cannot see his stern, and if he is working or not. Looks
to me like  he is just heading for port. He is not stopping, I see no pots
going over the side or coming back on board. I hold my course. NBD, as we
aren't really on a collision course anyway. I finally decided to veer off
starboard and give him more room when I got close enough to see no one at
the helm. As we passed, with lots of distance to spare, he cussed ME out
"give way to a working vessel you so an so"
How the hell was I to know he was "working". He was flying no flag ( it was
daylight). Nor have I ever seen anyone fly day signals on the Bay.
NTL, I always assume the other vessel will not abide buy the rules, but I
don't give way unless I feel it necessary. Usually that means our distances
are still far enough apart to avoid last minute confusion.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List C mk 1 rudder replacement

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Here in Havre de Grace MD there is a marina that once sold C My 37/40
needed a rudder rebuild. The owner recalled having a spare in his
warehouse. Alas it was not for a 37/40. It may be for a 35. Give Havre de
Grace Marina a call and ask for Chris.
http://www.hdgmarinecenter.com/

Let me know how it works out.
La Neige
1993 37/40 xl
HdG MD
Brian and Manon
thenext14years on FB
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List 37/40 xl rudder repair, rebuild

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

We bought LA Neige with the knowledge there was significant water intrusion
in the rudder. Last winter upon haul out we drilled holes to drain it. What
came out was a brownish, sandy material.
My fear was that the support structure was compromised by rust (previous
owner was at a saltwater marina for 10 years).
I called several places for prices and recommendations. The estimates were
from 4000 to 6000. The repairs ranged from a complete rebuild by Foss foam
to a complete cut open , dig out old foam, replace foam, reglass.
I decided on my local yard, Havre de Grace Marina.
They went the repair route. They cut it open on the starboard side. Dug out
all the old foam.  Inspected the stainless structure, which was in perfect
shape.
They refoamed  with a foam impervious to water. They rebonded the skin to
the foam, then reglass ed, interluxed and bottom painted.
All in all it looks great. They also cut a chamfer around the shaft to fix
the intrusion and reglass ed and sealed it.
Final price was WELL below the other quotes. They also repaired  the
bushing at the rudder shafts entry to the hull.
The result can be seen on our FB page
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1615536788509259=1011224262273851
I am very pleased with the final product. It remains to be seen if it holds
up.

Brian Fry
La Neige
C 37 40 xl
Havre de Grace MD
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Stus-List 3JH2E oil fill

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I can confirm the lower fill does indeed fill the crankcase, same as the
top. And it is an easier access.

1993 C 37/40 xl
LA Neige
Havre de Grace MD
Brian and Manon
thenext14ye...@gmail.com
Facebook blog thenext14years
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Stus-List 3JH2E Manual

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I have the same engine/ boat 37/40xl
Here is a link. Just checked it and it still works.
Hit me up on email if you have any questions I MIGHT be able to answer.

http://boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/3jh2.html#/4
-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat (Mark)

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I didn't mean to insult anyone. I said plastic because I didn't have any
proof they were Marelon.
I had found this on another sailing forum:
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154228

The internet used to mean never having to say I don't know. Now it means I
don't know what to believe.

On Dec 5, 2016 5:31 AM, "Ken Heaton" <kenhea...@gmail.com> wrote:

> The Thu Hull are actually Marelon®, a proprietary formulation of polymar
> composite compounds using composite reinforced polymer and additives to
> produce a superior marine-grade product.
>
>- For use above and below the waterline
>- Precision molded plumbing systems
>- Complete freedom from corrosion
>- U.L. and A.B.Y.C. approved
>
> Forespar "93" series valves and thru-hull fittings meet all design
> criteria and exceed all mechanical property requirements specified by the
> International Standards Organization
>
> http://www.forespar.com/what-is-marelon.shtml
>
> A bit better than just "plastic"
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>
> On 5 December 2016 at 01:07, Brian Fry via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> I just looked at the Ad in yachtworld. It looks identical to mine inside.
>> That engine, if it is a 3jh2 should be rated 38 HP, not 22.
>> I have a bit more tankage for water and waste.
>> I did replace my engine mounts last season.
>> Also had the Max prop refurbished.
>> I replaced the shaft seal.
>> I had an issue with a loose connection on the ammeter at the panel.
>> Some of the wiring is corroding at this point, so look for that.
>> My chainplates and the cabin handrails leaked inside. I replaced the
>> handrails with stainless steel.
>> The PO added a hatch in the Head for access to the water pump impeller,
>> very nice, though I may enlarge it.
>> The thru hulls are plastic in the head and for the forward sink and the
>> raw water for the washdown pump. I will be replacing them.
>> Looks pretty decent for that price.
>> Hit me up for any information I can provide.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Brian Fry
>> S/V La Neige
>> 1993 C 37/40XL
>> HdG Maryland
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat (Mark)

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I just looked at the Ad in yachtworld. It looks identical to mine inside.
That engine, if it is a 3jh2 should be rated 38 HP, not 22.
I have a bit more tankage for water and waste.
I did replace my engine mounts last season.
Also had the Max prop refurbished.
I replaced the shaft seal.
I had an issue with a loose connection on the ammeter at the panel.
Some of the wiring is corroding at this point, so look for that.
My chainplates and the cabin handrails leaked inside. I replaced the
handrails with stainless steel.
The PO added a hatch in the Head for access to the water pump impeller,
very nice, though I may enlarge it.
The thru hulls are plastic in the head and for the forward sink and the raw
water for the washdown pump. I will be replacing them.
Looks pretty decent for that price.
Hit me up for any information I can provide.


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Max Prop 3 blade consternation/confusion.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Josh,
There is another C 37/40 in the yard with a Max prop. No play at all in
that prop.

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Max Prop 3 blade consternation/confusion.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thank you for the replies.
The shaft taper does not seem to be an issue.I placed the spinner housing
on the shaft without the key and with the key. The position of the housing
doesn't change at all.
The shaft key as you can see in the video is captured wholly within the
body of the prop "spinner" housing, so I don't believe that is the issue.
Josh, there seemed to be some abnormal wear issues when I disassembled it.
I couldnt get any good pictures, being so small.
Here is a link to a video showing me installing the prop, including a good
view of the slop I am concerned about.

https://www.facebook.com/thenext14years/posts/1430456860350587
The prop is now on its' way back to PYI. I'd like to say Jerome's response
to my concern has been terrific. He's followed up with several calls and
had me send it back to them on their UPS account.
We will see hopefully soon what the issue may be.


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Max Prop 3 blade consternation/confusion.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I purchased La Neige last year. She has a 3 blade max prop folding prop.
There was alot of slop/play and I removed it and sent it back to the
manufacturer. It was refurbished, then returned to me. The local yard, a
Max Prop approved installer assisted in the reinstallation. At the time I
thought there was still some play, but hte yard assured me it was fine.
After haulout this year I again noticed the excessive amount of play. After
disassembly I see some worrying wear on the gears. So, I removed it to ship
it back again. After cleaning it I reassembled it to place it in the box
for shipping and I notice the play is almost negligible.
I called the Rep at the Manufacturer and he is as baffled as I am.
Does anyone here have any ideas what may be causing this? (play when
installed, but not when removed from shaft?)

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Handling skills

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I have mid cleats on my 37/40 xl. However, I haven't been successful using
them against a strong crosswind when docking or leaving.
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Re: Stus-List Anyone heading out?

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I am moving Friday to my haulout marina. Last year we hauled in December,
but I am having major rudder and keel work, hopefully before it gets cold.
Had a great week out last week, spent a few nights alone at a few spots.


> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
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Stus-List Mainsheet chafes

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

In all pictures the goose neck is to the right.
In one I removed the device from the boom and you can see the device is
incapable of being reversed.(that was my first thought and the reason for
removing it).
I guess there are only 2 possibilities left: either the sheet or the sheave
are too big, or both. Does anyone have the same setup and can measure the
gap of the exit hole on the aft end?
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2016 12:37:00 -0400
> From: "Don Wagner" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Main sheet chafes
> Message-ID: <6537CB000F7541D7B7B6F7B0CFB63AE1@HPPhoenix>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Brian
>
> I can?t tell from the photo, the direction of the boom, eg, is the
gooseneck on the left or the right of the photo?
> Maybe the exit block is mounted in the wrong direction? I know it is
a stupid question, but maybe some how it got turned around.
>
> It looks like some serious chafing!
>
> Don Wagner
> C 41CB
> Der Baron
> West River MD
>
>
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 10:26 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Main sheet chafes
>
> Brian,
>
> How old and large is that line?  Is it too big for the sheave?  If it is
original to the boat, it may just be time to replace it.
>
> Joel
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Stus-List Main sheet chafes

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I believe I posted about this before but I have some more info.
I have a 37/40xl. 1993.
Where the mainsheet enters the boom there is chafing. It appears to be
happening because of the angle going into the sheave block that is screwed
into the boom.
As far as I know there are no modifications to the boom or traveler. Can
anyone show what theirs looks like?
A link to pictures:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1360331584029782=1011224262273851
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Stus-List Mainsheet 37/40

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

My mainsheet enters the boom and is chafing at the entry point. There is
another small block aft the pulls on the main sheet and seems to be causing
The chafe. Is this standard on other C?

http://i.imgur.com/tLfmXHf.jpg

Brian Fry
La Neige
Havre de Grace MD
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Stus-List Cabin sole screws

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a fool proof or inventive fix for  deck plate screw holes
that won't hold any longer?
Only about half of my screws hold. The fiberglass holes I guess are just
stripped from multiple times being screwed and unscrewed.

How about the boards under the seats? I know I can just drill out the holes
and epoxy in some dowels, but has anyone done anything with latches for
these? My group 31 battery boxes are so large as to cause me to lift up the
whole board, not just the access board. Some sort of latch system would
make this much easier.

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List HIN

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

My primary HIN has been painted and is difficult to read. Is there a second
one somewhere on board?

1993 C 37/40 xl
HdG, MD
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Stus-List Rogue wave

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the replies.
I doubt this was a wake wave. It was way larger than any I ever
encountered, and traveling North-south, stretching all the way across the
bay. (The channel runs north-south, so any wake wave would travel east-west.
 Also, it was only 2 waves very close to each other.
Wish I had bought that Go-Pro I always wanted, it was pretty impressive to
see.

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Odd wave in Chesapeake

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

On Jun 17, 2016 3:59 PM, "Brian Fry"  wrote:
>
> Leaving Solomon's last week in the morning, headed north, experienced an
odd wave. We were offshore from Cove Point, light winds from SE, motoring
in near calm water.
> All of a sudden, 2 waves about 4 ft or 5 ft high just a few feet apart
came down the bay, from the north. We drive right into them, the second one
just about coming over the bow.
> Had anyone experienced this?
> No traffic was in sight.
> I am thinking a wave created by the tide shift from high to low, at a
narrow part of the bay.
> Freaky.
> I spoke with a sailor from Solomon's and he had never seen it.
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Stus-List Odd wave in Chesapeake

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Leaving Solomon's last week in the morning, headed north, experienced an
odd wave. We were offshore from Cove Point, light winds from SE, motoring
in near calm water.
All of a sudden, 2 waves about 4 ft or 5 ft high just a few feet apart came
down the bay, from the north. We drive right into them, the second one just
about coming over the bow.
Had anyone experienced this?
No traffic was in sight.
I am thinking a wave created by the tide shift from high to low, at a
narrow part of the bay.
Freaky.
I spoke with a sailor from Solomon's and he had never seen it.
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Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub
inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair.
Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de
Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing.
Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
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Re: Stus-List icebox pump

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

On  my 93 37/40 xl the ice box pump is located under the starboard saloon
seat, just forward of the sink.
There is an additional switch next to the ice box on the bulkhead.
It pumps to a pipe into the inboard sink
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Stus-List Backstays, running and baby

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

My previous boat, a Catalina 30, was not setup for racing.
I am trying to figure out this 37/40's backstays.
What I surmise is this:
When hard into the wind, the backstays should be brought back to the deck
fitting just outboard of the jib winches with the windward ones pulled
tight.

Is this correct?

Do you move them forward incrementally as the wind comes abeam?

Running downwind they have to be as far forward as the shrouds to remain
clear of the boom.

Any advice is welcomed.
Also, if not racing do I need to be adjusting the hydraulic backstays?

Brian Fry
La Neige
37/40xl 1993
Havre de Grace MD
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Re: Stus-List strut pro

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I just went thru the same thing on La Neige.
Pulling the prop was the easiest part (Max prop three blade)
Detaching the shaft/engine coupling would have been easy had there not been
a broken set screw on it.
Dealing with the shaft seal was almost a non issue.
As far as size, it was an oddball on mine. 1.25 shaft, 1 5/8 OD on the
bearing. Ordered from Europe.

Brian Fry
CC 37/40XL 1993
Havre de Grace MD
La Neige
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Re: Stus-List Afloat again

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Follow us on FB
https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

Checkout the brokers listing for lots of pics:
http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1993-c-c-37-40-xl-4726841/#.VwGY2o4pDbV

I tried emailing direct to you, but gmail returned as failed

>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 12:42:00 -0400
> From: Phygital 
> To: biker...@yahoo.com
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Afloat again
> Message-ID: <03b2c216-395d-4d0e-9318-4492c6174...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm new to the this list and in the process of acquiring a C I've been
reading the emails for the last week and I can say everyone on this list is
super. So many other lists draw so much negativity. I guess C's really do
being out the best in people :).
>
> Your boat is really nice. Do you have any additional pics you can share.
Curious to see the interior as well.
>
> Regards,
>
> John
> To be C owner
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Re: Stus-List Afloat again

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

It is Awlgrip Flag Blue 5002.

>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2016 10:32:54 -0400
> From: "Richard N. Bush" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Afloat again
> Message-ID: <153d7641851-18f7-7...@webprd-m33.mail.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>  Great looking boat! What is the color? Thanks
>
>
>
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio river, mile 596;
>
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
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Stus-List Afloat again

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

La Neige is afloat once again.
Thanks for the help with my projects.
https://imgur.com/EqfHnnW
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Stus-List Max prop angle

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I have a 3 blade Max Prop, 17". The surveyor said to adjust propeller pitch
to allow the engine to reach top speed in gear.
The current settings are for 24 degrees.
I think I am supposed  to reduce the angle.
I do not know how far off the speed is, so I am thinking of starting at 22.
Anyone else with a 37/40 know their pitch or angle?

Brian Fry
La Neige
37/40 XL
Havre de Grace MD
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Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Has anyone replace their rudder on a 37/40 with a different model/shape?
Got a decent quote on a replacement which is not an exact copy. Weighing
the pros and cons.

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Stainless grab rails (Josh Muckley)

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Talked with Mike. Price is $422 for the pair + delivery.



> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 03:43:37 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+zacrboj6+7abm133duwf+7m8mbxp_mr062qj0yphhvopo...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Sorry white water marine can be found here:
>
> http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com
>
> I was working with Mike and if you reference my project it might ease the
> engineering.
>
> m...@whitewatermarineinc.com
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> I had mine made at whitewatermarine.com under the advice of this list.
> Very reasonable to work with.   I can't remember if it was $200 each or
> total for the pair.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Fwd: Head engine access

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I posted pics and description on my FB blog:
https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

Feel free to ask questions
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 42

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

La Neige, a 37/40 XL has an access cover in the head. It is one of those
hinged plastic rectangular shaped hatches. Highly recommend at least this,
as I couldn't have accessed the mounts to replace them. Also allows access
to raw water pump and starter (still have to remove starter to get the pump
out though.)
I' will post pics next time I get aboard (maybe tomorrow). It was installed
by previous owner. I would recommend larger if you can find one.
Mine looks like this one, but black:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/bomar--inspection-hatch-7-x-11-black--226873
 I'll get the dimensions  with the pics.


>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 14:43:44 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: C List 
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> To the Listers with 37+?s, R?s, or XL?s,
>
> I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other
> side of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done
> this? If so, could you send photos?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

For starters I reply with a variety of devices and they don't all work the
same, some are easier than others.

The fact that I am replying to a digest, instead of just one message in the
digest, causes the subject header to be the Vol and Issue of the digest. I
can't reply to just one message in the digest. If there was a way to do
that it would go a long way to fixing the problem. It could also help if it
only brought over the individual Message being replied to, instead of every
message in the Digest issue. That would eliminate the mistake of not
stripping out the unnecessary messages.

When I choose 'reply' the subject line doesn't even appear, so it is not
'in my face' reminding me to change it. I have to drop down the subject
header to see it and then change it. Not sure if there is a setting in
gmail to change that, I will have to look.

On the other hand, I think it is more of a hassle having to scroll and scan
thru all of the messages to find the one I want to read. If one could click
on the relevant subject at the top of the digest and have it take you down
the page to the message you wanted it would save much more time than having
read a subject line that said Re: VolXXX Issue aaa.



Message: 4
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 21:26:05 -0400
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ &
Melody)
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Brian,

I approached someone else off list as to why/how this happens.  Can you
possibly give some insights?  If there was legitimately something simple
that could be done on the server side?  I considered that maybe renaming
the digest subject to include "DO NOT REPLY" would help?  I've also thought
that simply having a server rule that rejects all mail with the word DIGEST
in the subject line?

I guess I've never had a problem so I don't understand what's causing the
problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Guilty as charged, again.
My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for my shortcomings. I am
trying my best, but after a long day wrestling with a Max prop I did manage
to get my return email address changed, put a signature line in the bottom,
and delete the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject line.
So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.



> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
> Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List
> Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some
> subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
> subject line instead of reading them.
>
> So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!
>
> Stu
>
>


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Rudder is in need of major repair. Got a quote for a replacement for less
than a repair, but not an exact copy (they don't have a mold). Also 2/3 the
cost of having a mold made and then a replacement made from that.
I had drilled a dozen  holes to drain water over the winter to avoid freeze
expansion causing more damage. Found many of the holes drilled had just
voids behind them, no foam, others had a gritty white material that was
saturated with water. Saw pictures here and elsewhere of same rudder repair
needed.

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 12:21:42 -0400
From: John Pennie 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
Message-ID: <2c82d7c8-8e02-4d7f-aec5-d405a536d...@svpaws.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I seriously considered this on my 51.  Even had Rob design the new rudder.
In the end I decided that I couldn't justify the cost.

Why are you looking to change?

John
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Stus-List New bearing arrived. How to make it tighter.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

As the heading says my new bearing has arrived. It slid right in with
minimal resistance. It is also 1/2 inch too long. Is any of this an issue.
Should I cut it down to fit?
Do I need to add some sort of glue or epoxy? Or will the two set screws be
enough? Here is a link to my blog where there is a pic.

https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

Brian Fry
la Neige
37/40xl 1993
Havre de Grace
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Stus-List Re shaft pitting

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thanks Russ. Love the knowledge.

> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2016 17:44:09 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Shaft pitting
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed"
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> This pitting is not unusual for stainless steel that has spent time
> in a low oxygen environment. The water in there is stagnate, oxygen
> depletes, a galvanic cell develops and viola. The process is the
> pits, so to speak.
>
> The remedy is pretty much as you did, clean up the shaft best as
> possible. To my eye that amount of pitting is not going to affect
reliability.
>
> To avoid future pitting don't leave the shaft in one position during
> long periods of immersion. Run the engine a little while in gear or
> at least turn the shaft by hand a bit during your regular checks when
> you're not using the boat.
>
>  Cheers, Russ
>  Sweet 35 mk-1
>
>
> At 02:15 PM 04/03/2016, you wrote:
>
> >I cleaned up the prop shaft. Then took 600 grit sandpaper then 400
> >grit sandpaper to it. There is some pitting on the shaft that rides
> >in the bearing. Attached is a link to my blog that has a pic. Is
> >this an issue? Do I need to replace the shaft or have these pits filled?
> >Content-Type: image/jpeg; name=".facebook_1457129540635.jpg"
> >Content-Disposition: attachment;
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Stus-List shaft pitting

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Just in case that last image did not load here is a link to imager of my
pitted  shaft.
http://imgur.com/08IPTvx

SV La Neige
Brian Fry
CNC37/40xl
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Stus-List Shaft pitting

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I cleaned up the prop shaft. Then took 600 grit sandpaper then 400 grit
sandpaper to it. There is some pitting on the shaft that rides in the
bearing. Attached is a link to my blog that has a pic. Is this an issue? Do
I need to replace the shaft or have these pits filled?
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Re: Stus-List Lignum vitae Bearing

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

It would be a sleeve machined from a block, bored out, and grooves cut into
it.
$120 plus shipping is what they quoted me.



Message: 4
Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 21:27:06 -0500
From: Neil Gallagher 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lignum vitae bearings
Message-ID: <56d4fdfa.2050...@optonline.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

Years ago lignum vitae used to be the standard material for ships'
bearings.  It's a very dense (heavier than water), oily wood so it
provides its own lubrication.  It hasn't been used on ships in the last
50+ yrs.  They stopped using lignum vitae because as ships got bigger
and faster, the shafts got larger and heavier, and the wood wasn't
precise enough to keep the shaft in position.

Using it on our boats might work, but I could see it being difficult to
install.  They used to use individual staves that were slid lengthwise
into grooves in the bronze or steel housing.  Not sure how that would
work in our struts which are made so you can press in (or out, as some
of us are dealing with) the bronze outer sleeve. Are they proposing just
a sleeve made of wood?

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
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Stus-List Bearing resolution

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Just an update, if anyone is wondering.
As you may know, I require a cutlass bearing of 1 1/4 x 1 5/8, an oddball
size.
I called a prop shop in Baltimore, they wanted $155 to supply a bearing
that was machined down from 1 3/4 to 1 5/8
The lignum Vitae bearing turns out it would be $120 plus shipping.
I ordered a bearing of the size I needed from the UK, a website called
seaware (thanks to a fellow sailor here for the information, Michael I
think?), shipped it will be $104 USD

Next step will be to align the shaft and engine. My plan is to use shaft
packing to support the shaft in the stuffing tube during the alignment,
since I have a dripless packing setup. Preliminary measurement of my
stuffing tube indicates a size of 1.85", which may present a problem.
Defender catalog lists standard tube sizes of 1.5, 1.75, 2, but not 1.85.
1/4" packing is probably too small, and 5/16 may be too big.





-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Lignum vitae bearings

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Came across this. Has me intrigued.
They will cut me one to my specs  for $60 +shipping.

Ever heard or seen one?

http://www.lignum-vitae-bearings.com/gallery/

Brian
La Neige
37/40
HdG MD
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Stus-List Bearing found? Seaware in UK Thank you Michael!

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I think you found it!

Message: 7
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 17:18:24 -0500
From: Michael Brown 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oddball bearing again.
Message-ID: <702986474-9...@mail.tkg.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

The corresponding sizes from Morse are called "Chogset" and "Chub",
neither having a 1 5/8 OD. Sames a Johnson they jump from 1 1/2 to 1 3/4.

http://www.morserubber.com/StandardBrassSleeve.pdf

Maybe here:

https://www.seaware.co.uk/shaft-cutlass-bearing-brass-metric-9275.html

P/N CR005/1

It may be worthwhile phoning Morse and Johnson, They may have a competitive
price turning down the larger size.

Michael Brown
Windburn
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Stus-List Bearings

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Came across this today:
http://www.lignum-vitae-bearings.com/industries/marine/

I don't recall if the submarine I was on had this. I will have to check.

Speaking of bearings, mine is out.
Wound up cutting it out. I was able to extract it about 3/4 inch with my
jury rigs. But the going was slow. Once I got a measurement, I sawed it out.

Here is a link to my blog on FB with some pics.
https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

La Neige
C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace MD
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Stus-List Oddball bearing again.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

>From a previous post:
"I see these two Johnson bearings:

870322100  * BIND  ID: 1  1/4   OD: 1  1/2 Wall
thickness: 1/16
870322101   BIRD   ID: 1  1/4   OD: 1  3/4 Wall thickness: 1/8"

These are the same sizes in the Defender catalog, but made by Morse.

I guess my next step is to order a 1 1/4 × 1 3/4 and get it turned down to
1 5/8
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Stus-List Macgyver2

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

If you have a link it would be greatly appreciated, for I cannot find the
right size.

From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Macgyver 2
Message-ID:


Brian
Defender has the size you need.
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Stus-List Macgyver 2

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

So this is what I ended up with:
MacGyver part 2
http://imgur.com/LD5A3De

It is really slow going. I managed to get about 1/2 inch out to take a
measurement. It is definitely 1 5/8"
1 5/8 diameter outside
http://imgur.com/970E1vR

I will probably cut it out now.
Thinking I will have to sleeve a 1 1/4 × 1 1/2 with a 1 1/2 × 1 5/8
Anyone know a machine shop in the Chesapeake area?
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Re: Stus-List bearing removal tool

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I am trying to remove it undamaged because it seems to be an odd size.

Josh, thanks for the input.
I will keep working at it.

> >

> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 17:36:37 -0400
> From: 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver
> Message-ID: <26E99133EAD04EEC82957F43F69B1DDE@T60>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Brian, looking at the photos, it appears you have the shaft removed? If
so, all you have to do now is carefully score the old bearing 90% of the
way through with a hacksaw and then bend the bearing inward with a punch.
Once loosened, it should come out.  I did this job a couple of years ago
with a homemade tool that removed the old bearing without removing the
shaft, worked well.
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Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

It appears that it is not going to work.
I was using Conduit PVC, and it is just not strong enough to take the
forces involved.
I'll probably try again, this time using socket werenches, if I can find on
big enough.



-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to try it yet. Maybe tomorrow or
Thursday.


> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 17:11:26 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+zacrcqmjcjxeyc5mmzvsv7khugux5ngm5xhfq-p0-er68...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Did it work?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Feb 23, 2016 1:00 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Here's a link to the solution I came up with
> >
> > https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/
> >
> > Brian
> > La Neige
> > 37/40 xl 1993
> > Havre de Grace
> >
>
> --
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Replying recommendations

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

My bad. I will be more attentive in the future.

In response to some responses;

 I am located in Havre de Grace MD.

I like the look of the homemade bearing pusher, will look into making my
own.



-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 121, Issue 69

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a cutlass bearing removal tool I could borrow?
The yard won't let me borrow theirs.
I'd rather press it out than cut it out, to get an accurate measurement.





> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 22:24:49 + (UTC)
> From: Chuck S 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing again.
> Message-ID:
> <842745367.1105317.1456093489165.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I would remove the cutless bearing from the strut and take more
> measurements. The outer dimension may be different once you get it out.
> Maybe there is a sleeve in there? Once it's out, you can take it to a shop
> and say, "give me one of these."
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
>

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Cutlass bearing again.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I finally got my shaft coupling removed and the shaft pulled.
This allowed me to get an accurate measurement of the bearing strut
diameter. It is without a doubt 1 5/8". The shaft is 1 1/4".
I cannot find a replacement anywhere for this size.
WTH do I do now?
Do I install a sleeve of copper pipe into which I press the bearing?
I am at my wits end with this.

Brian
La Neige
37/40 xl
Havre de Grace MD.
https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/
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Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
Shaft is 1.25"
ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation
is 1 and 5/8.
I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8.
Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4
Cant find metric equivalent either.

Brian Fry
La Neige
HdG MD
1993 37/40XL
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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thanks for the excellent link on butyl.

>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 15:40:26 GMT
> From: "Danny Haughey" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
> Message-ID: <20160209.104026.2276...@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
> Go to compass marine and get the stuff they sell.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects I used it to bed the
hatch, handrails, traveler, and any other hardware on deck. Read his
rebedding advice as well.   Danny
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape
> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:28:58 -0500
>
>
> I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc.
I prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes
out of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.
Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations
for thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses? Charlie
NelsonWater PhantomC 36 XL/kcbNew Bern, NCcenel...@aol.com
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160209/5aeff9b2/attachment-0001.html
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 11:07:10 -0500
> From: "Marek Dziedzic \(hotmail\)" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Main Sail?s tape is the best (;-).
> Compass Marine in Maine (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape)
>
> Marek
>
>
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2016 10:29
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape
>
> I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc.
I prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes
out of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.
>
> Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations
for thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses?
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC
>
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160209/e6682dde/attachment-0001.html
>
>
> --
>
>
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Stus-List Brackets and basketballs

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Do you mean the brackets? Are upside down?

The basketball worked the first time I used it. The second time, I probably
overinflated it.

> On Feb 1, 2016 9:16 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > On Sun, Jan 31, 2016 at 3:10 PM, Rino Granito via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2016 17:15:54 -0500
> > From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> >
>
> > I did the same replacement a few years ago.  The top plate that is
touching
> > the engine mount angle is just there to shield fuel fuel spills from
> > degrading the elastomer.  As long as you were able to get the alignment
> > right AND get the nut torqued you're fine.   I'll check mine to see what
> > the clearance looks like.
> >
> > Here's some pics to get you started.
> > https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit
> >
> > Compared to my pics it kinds looks like your mounts might be upside
down?
> >
> > Josh Muckley
> > S/V Sea Hawk
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> > Yanmar 3HM35F
> > On Jan 31, 2016 4:50 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Just replaced my Yanmar mounts, which apparently won't hold if
inverted,
> > > with an aftermarket kit from PYI. (Surveyor indicated they were at
EOL )The
> > > Fwd starboard mount clearance is very tight, as you can see here:
> > > New engine mount http://imgur.com/gallery/ipOPRzF
> > > Is this going to be an issue?
> > >
> > > Engine is not aligned yet,  needless to say this one won't be going
any
> > > lower. I suppose I could have a bit of material removed from either
the
> > > bracket, or from the base of the mount (3/4 inch aluminum)
> > >
> > > Thoughts?
> > >
> > > S/V La Neige
> > > C 37/40xl
> > > Brian
> > > Havre de Grace
> > >
> > > ___
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Stus-List Basketball engine lift

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Be careful of you use a basketball to lift your engine off your mounts.

Basketball engine lift http://imgur.com/ino0ewn

Brian
La Neige
37/40xl
HdG
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Stus-List Fwd: New engine mount

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Just replaced my Yanmar mounts, which apparently won't hold if inverted,
with an aftermarket kit from PYI. (Surveyor indicated they were at EOL )The
Fwd starboard mount clearance is very tight, as you can see here:
New engine mount http://imgur.com/gallery/ipOPRzF
Is this going to be an issue?

Engine is not aligned yet,  needless to say this one won't be going any
lower. I suppose I could have a bit of material removed from either the
bracket, or from the base of the mount (3/4 inch aluminum)

Thoughts?

S/V La Neige
C 37/40xl
Brian
Havre de Grace
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Stus-List Oil cooler corrosion

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

While working to remove the rusty exhaust mixing tee I noticed significant
rust on the oil cooler exterior.
I decided to remove it for inspection.
Here are some pics:
http://i.imgur.com/JRncLOQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/R9HJv2k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mboAyhP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LG1CBoV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3o8jjDm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GEEHAo0.jpg

Looks to me to be in ok shape. The exterior rust does not look too deep. My
guess it is caused by the leaky exhaust which is just a few inches away.
The corrosion at the braze weld is a bit concerning, but since it is not
also occurring at the seawater exit end it probably is also caused by the
leaky exhaust splashing onto it, rather than indicating corrosion from
within.
My intentions are to just do a rust removal and repaint on the exterior,
and a removal of the corrosion on the nipples.
Any input is welcome.
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Stus-List Frigo keel

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

The refrigerator is cooled by transferring the heat overboard to a coil.
This one is showing signs of corrosion, but the zincs are near perfect. Did
a previous owner neglect changing the zincs at one time? Do I need to
replace this at this point? Interestingly one model of this heat exchanger
is a completely exposed copper coil.
Frigokeel http://imgur.com/0KJG9QA
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 120, Issue 70

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thank you Rick. This is the Service manual I have on board. Nice to have an
electric copy now too.

You wouldn't have a parts manual?




> --
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 17:16:58 -0400
> From: Rick Taillieu 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler
> Message-ID: <008b01d152fe$bb55aca0$320105e0$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Brian,
>
>
>
> Try this link.
>
>
>
> http://boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/3jh2.html#/0
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Nemesis
>
> '75 C 25  #371
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

It is a one pass cooler, cooled by seawater. It is on the aft of the engine.
Interestingly the ones in the manuals I have been able to find look like
they are 2 pass coolers. By this I mean there are 2 separate coolers, one
is mounted horizontally, then there is an elbow which is just less than 180
degrees radius which connects to the second pass cooler.
Mine only has the horizontal cooler, and a Hose where the second cooler
would be.
This is a 3JH2 engine, non-turbo. At least that is what is listed on the
survey, and the manual in the desk. Is there a nameplate somewhere on the
engine that gives the Model number? I have only found a serial number.
I am having difficulty finding parts lists  for this engine. I have found a
website or 2 that list parts, but they have no pictures so it is hard for
me to tell if the parts are correct.

Brian Fry
C 37/40 XL
La Neige
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh, my engine looks nothing like the one in the links you sent.
I guess what I am really looking for is a Parts manual for a 3JH2E.

I have traced out the flow. The Raw water leaves the pump and goes into the
inlet of the oil cooler on the port  (rear) side of the engine, through the
cooler to the starboard side, up a u-shaped fitting into a hose that flows
back to the port side at the top of the engine where it enters the Raw
water/Fresh water heat exchanger.
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Stus-List Mixing elbow and Oil cooler concerns

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Was removing my mixing elbow for replacement, (weld is  leaking). Has
anyone had theirs rewelded? A new one is $225. I think the new one is
stainless.
At the same time I noticed rust along the bottom of the oil cooler. Is this
an indication that the oil cooler is about to fail?

C 37/40XL
La Neige
HdG Maryland
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Stus-List Threaded bolt

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Thank you for your replies. I havent figured out how to reply to the posts,
so I will just reply here.

The threaded rod appears to be threaded into the shaft, on one side only.
The 4 bolts holding the arm and clamp together came apart easily.
I tried first with vice grips. No dice.
Now trying to rethread to try the 2 nut idea.
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Stus-List Rudder bearing 37/40

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

The image link below is of my rudder bearing. It looks to me like it has
dropped down. Being new to me I dont know what it is supposed to look like.
Is the lower ring supposed to be exposed? Or should it be up in the tube?

http://imgur.com/oy4FKng
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Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
I am in the Chesapeake.

http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg

The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it
attaches to the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew
the rod.
Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is not
allowing that to happen.
.
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