Stus-List Cabin Fever Videos

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

For those of us who are Northern Sailors, this is a list of some
movies/videos that I put together for my club in Nyack...

I am always looking for other suggestions as well.

While there are a mere two months before we start spring prep, those are
still 8 or more weeks of winter weather. If you are not a skier, there are
other ways to pass the time. Aside from the favorites (Wind, Captain Ron,
White Squall, etc.), here are some cabin-fever video suggestions including
a couple new ones this year.


   1.

   Coyote: The Mike Plant Story. The story of one of America’s most
   successful offshore sailors. He managed to finish first in Division 2 in
   his first Vendee Globe race. Available for rental or purchase on Amazon
   Video
   2.

   The Mercy: The “Hollywood” version of “The Strange Last Voyage of Donald
   Crowhurst”, the sailor who disappeared during the first “Golden Globe”
   single-handed, non stop race around the world race. This cinematic
   re-telling stars Rachel Weisz and Colin Firth. Available for rental or
   Purchase on Amazon Video. If you haven’t seen Deep Water, this is the
   Documentary telling of the story--also available on Amazon Video for rental
   or purchase.
   3.

   The Weekend Sailor. The improbable story of the first winner of the
   Whitbread round the world race. Ramón Carlin set out in a production Swan
   65 with a mix of family, friends and some professional sailors to claim the
   overall handicap spot. Available on Amazon Prime--free of charge if you are
   a Prime Member


There are also plenty of sailing videos on YouTube.  Some of the more
popular channels include:

For Cruisers


   1.

   S/V Delos. The voyages of an Amel Super Maramu around the world since
   2009. And yes, once you get into this you will watch them paint the bottom
   of their boat. https://www.youtube.com/user/briantrautman
   2.

   Sailing La Vagabond. And Australian couple sailing around the world in a
   big Benneteau. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZdQjaSoLjIzFnWsDQOv4ww


For Racers


   1.

   The Extreme Sailing Series. Stadium racing of foiling GC32 catamarans.
   https://www.youtube.com/user/ExtremeSailingSeries
   2.

   World Match Racing Tour. More catamaran sailing
   https://www.youtube.com/user/worldmrt
   3.

   An odd collection of America’s cup races from the 70s onward
   https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLlYTHRK78mP-O2iweHIu68cpHos-PRcZy
   4.

   T2PTV has a collection of regatta highlights including the Annapolis
   Yacht Club Wednesday night series
   https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZ8hNI0CTVwGXr0QnxV43GLpWeZ-zr5Bq


These are a couple playlists that I have put together.


   1.

   Every Sydney Hobart Race. Race videos primarily from the 60s and 70s
   https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGF2-8KjtDlnAX24rwqHc3CQTA6g_rgQj
   2.

   Whitbread/Volvo Ocean Race videos from the 70s, 80s and 90s


Happy Streaming,

Eric
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Re: Stus-List Windows gone bad

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

See below

On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:37 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Eric, where did you buy your windows?
>

EAB: Plastic-Craft Products in West Nyack NY (local)



> Did you have a pattern from the old ones to cut your own?
>

*EAB: I made a patterns before I removed the old windows by tracing the old
ones. I had the windows cut for me.*


> Where did you source your VHB tape?
>

*EAB: Amazon*



>
> bd
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Windows gone bad

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I wiped with Acetone prior to bonding :(


On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:06 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm guessing that the surfaces weren't clean enough.  I used alcohol to
> clean the surfaces.  They must be very clean for VHB or silicone to bond.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 10:28 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I re-did my windows this spring on my 34/36.
>>
>> I used the VHB tape and the 3m building caulk.
>>
>> 3 out of 4 seemed to come out ok, but on the fourth the tape did not bond
>> very highly.
>>
>> It started on the very front of the stb port, but I was on the boat when
>> it was raining and it seems the seal failed in multiple places.
>>
>> I can push separation between the window and deck in a few spots and the
>> caulk didn't seem to bond.
>>
>> I am hoping I can get the window of without breaking it, but then will
>> need to get the tape and caulk off to start over.
>>
>> Anyone face this?
>>
>> Eric Baumes
>> S/V Hee Soo
>> 34/36?
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Windows gone bad

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hello,

I re-did my windows this spring on my 34/36.

I used the VHB tape and the 3m building caulk.

3 out of 4 seemed to come out ok, but on the fourth the tape did not bond
very highly.

It started on the very front of the stb port, but I was on the boat when it
was raining and it seems the seal failed in multiple places.

I can push separation between the window and deck in a few spots and the
caulk didn't seem to bond.

I am hoping I can get the window of without breaking it, but then will need
to get the tape and caulk off to start over.

Anyone face this?

Eric Baumes
S/V Hee Soo
34/36?
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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

My favourites for olde time sailing:

Secret Sailing
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxlF6_H-5uEJmCKRe_qbH7g/videos lots of old
America's Cup if you dig around

CYCATV https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCruJTxFopLOdmrn2tMvDxDw lots of old
Sydney Hobart Race films

Volvo Ocean Race
https://www.youtube.com/user/volvooceanracevideos/search?query=whitbread in
addition to recent VoR starts and in-port races, has many Whitbread films.

On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 2:26 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wow what a bunch of couch surfers! (just kidding) Love seeing C on the
> water and in action!
>
> Forgot to mention  - Sailing Doodles - a C 37 from Texas to the Florida
> keys and Exhumas. A commercial pilot was grounded for medical reasons so he
> bought a boat and went sailing. Apparently quite successfully, although
> recently sailing a newer boat for his Pacific crossing.
>
> Wondering if these videos have provided a push for wanna-be skippers to
> cast off for long term cruising? Anybody know if there has there been a
> spike in activity since YouTube became a thing?
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C 36 KCB Chamamé
> DIYC Tampa, FL
>
> On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 1:44 PM, John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I do watch your channel as well.
>>
>>
>> /John
>>
>> On Jul 26, 2018, at 9:39 AM, Daniel Cormier  wrote:
>>
>> You forgot your very own Sailing Balachandra (my channel) lol
>> But we’re one of the few channels sailing on a C!
>> We don’t have the following those other channels have but we also didn’t
>> start back in 2012 when it was new and they built their core audiences...
>> AND we’re not cruising around the South China Sea naked! (Yet)
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/sailingbalachandra
>>
>> Dan
>> Balachandra
>> C
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 26, 2018, at 9:54 AM, coltrek--- via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Where do you find all those energetic Young Bucks? And great
>> cinematographers too, by the way! Nice job.! That would be a great race to
>> do - on someone else's boat!
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> C 39
>>
>>
>> --
>> On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> You may be entertained these YouTube videos one of my crewmembers made of
>> the Bermuda Race with me on Masquerade, the boat that replaced my treasured
>> C 40.
>> https://youtu.be/_hFRocpOT6I
>>
>> Andy
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>>
>> On Jul 25, 2018, at 16:05, James Bibb via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Im with you!
>>
>> Janes Bibb
>> C 34-36r Darwin’s Folly
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 25, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously
>> through others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold
>> ones)
>>
>> My favorites are:
>>
>>- S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super
>>Miramu 2000 with 6 aboard
>>- Abandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalism
>>- Another Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's
>>infancy
>>- Sailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new
>>Otremer catamaran donated by the manufacturer
>>- Sailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-it
>>- More daily...
>>
>>
>> Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so
>> there's that. More cruising soon.
>>
>> Anyone else?
>>
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> C 36 KCB Chamamé
>> DIYC Tampa, FL
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  

Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Replacing broken rope clutches on deck.

Re-bedding some hatches and other suspected leaks.

Painting spreaders and touch up on the mast.

Fix some stuff on the mast.

Paint bottom

Wax hull

I am past the point of no return on the windows. The one pic shows the
average size chunk that has come off. About 4 hours and 8 lacerations later
the windows are off. A lot of cleanup and fairing. 25% of the glue stuck to
the gelcoat, 75% took the gelcoat with it.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1TjY_LL9iFrLS1yX1FYSHVmSlk
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Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I have purchased, but not yet used DEI 010301 High-Temperature Silicone
Coating Spray - Black based on I think the same blog post. I have the
windows, tape, etc. and this is the year I will do it!


On Wed, Mar 14, 2018 at 10:31 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I replaced my portlights on my 29-2, I became quite paranoid about
> the spray paint attacking the plexiglass and undermining its longevity. I
> tried looking at the technical data sheets for various paints like Krylon
> and found they contained chemicals that would theoretically harm the plexi.
>
> My approach instead was to use just Dow 795 for the entire job. The
> slightly tricky part was making 3/16”x3/16”x3/4” spacers with cured 795 to
> allow enough silicone between the fibreglass and plexi. The rate of
> expansion between the dissimilar materials being the concern, and having
> enough silicone thickness to accommodate that movement. I made up an mdf
> board shaped slightly smaller than the portlights to hold it in place while
> the 795 cured for 10 days or whatever it was. The mdf was wedged against
> the portlights against the lifelines.
>
> The 795 just appears black at the overlap and the portlights have held up
> for 2 years of big temperature swings in Toronto, Canada.
>
> Derek McLeod
> Aileron
> 1983 C 29-2
> Toronto
>
> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph  wrote:
>
> I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea...
>  there is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now
>
> “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape
> (and sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This
> will also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond
> strength will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some
> professionals, silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both
> compatible and tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when
> you remove the ring of film.” Don Casey https://www.
> sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights
>
>
>
> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford  wrote:
>
> Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape?
>
> *From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>
>
> My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray
> paint.  Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere .  Anyone try this?  Good
> or bad idea?
>
>
> From: Chuck Saur 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>> Happy spring??  I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the
>> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas,  prior to installing, to hide the the VHB
>> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white
>> cabin side along those edge areas.
>>
>> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone
>> remover and mineral spirits.  I actually lost only three patches of knuckle
>> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will
>> make contact with the tape and/or paint.
>>
>> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive.  Has
>> anyone painted this and have advice?  I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond
>> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn...  Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>> ​Morning Sky
>> C 35-3
>> ​
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Should have said that list was in no particular order.

Yes, main usually comes over last.

On Wed, Feb 21, 2018 at 4:03 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Eric,
>
> We always jibe the mast last.  Are we doing it wrong?
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, Feb 21, 2018 at 3:49 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Jobs to do when dip jibing symmetrical chute/ Ideal setup.
>>
>> 1. Main trimmer (jibes main)
>> 2. Foredeck (switches pole to new working guy)
>> 3. Mast (raises and lowers pole on mast, lowers and raises the topping
>> lift)
>> 4. Chute trimmer
>> 5. Guy trimmer (squares pole)
>> 6. Helm
>> 7. Pit (check stays)
>> 8. Floater (tends misc. lines when trimmer and guy change sides)
>>
>> Sure people can do more than one job. And sometimes with inexperience
>> crew you are better off that way (4-5 good crew are essential). But you
>> won't be as fast and as precise short-handed as a crew who can execute.
>> You wont be as fast as jibing an asym and you will avoid Jibing when it may
>> be advantageous.
>>
>> In any weather, the helm should only be steering and someone should be
>> tending the main. The results of divided attention during can be really
>> bad.
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 3:51 PM, Susan Kaseler <skis...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have been sitting on my hands about responding to this but I don’t
>>> understand why you need 6 to 7 on board to fly a symmetrical shoot. This
>>> number of crew is great for keeping the boat flat but I’ve never been so
>>> lucky to attract that many crew. Maybe we needed better lunch and beer. SLY
>>> is only a 33 footer and yours is 36 but when we raced competitively we
>>> seldom had more than 3 on board and almost always flew the shoot. We “end
>>> for end” jibe which might be more difficult on the 36 than the 33 and I
>>> have little experience doing a dip pole jibe but I don’t believe it takes
>>> more people. When the wind filled in we used “lazy guys” which provided a
>>> great deal more control. In my opinion it’s nice to have a full compliment
>>> of players when racing and flying the symmetrical shoot but not necessary.
>>> When we were 3, we were careful to avoid the need for a jibe set. The
>>> foredeck crew would set up the turtle, set the pole to its approximate
>>> position with it clipped to the guy not the sail and then would move to the
>>> halyard. The helmsman would do her magic and the third would control the
>>> sheet and guy. Or the lazy guy if weather dictated. Not the ideal situation
>>> but possible on SLY. For the jibe the helmsman steered straight downwind,
>>> the foredeck guy removed the pole from the mast, clipped it to the lazy guy
>>> or the sheet, held the pole perpendicular to the wind and waited for the
>>> call from the helmsman to release the new sheet and fasten the new free end
>>> of the pole to the mast. The third handled the sheet and guy to keep the
>>> sail full as the helmsman headed up to the new course. There have been many
>>> club Races were we were just two and still flew the shoot but I can’t
>>> recommend that. My wife, the skipper, is not fond of steering with her
>>> knees while handling the sheet and guy while I’m yelling at her to let a
>>> couple of inches off the topping lift.
>>> Not always easy but we made it happen and had a lot of fun doing it.
>>> Dave.
>>> 1975 C 33
>>> SLY
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> On Jan 31, 2018, at 12:13 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Depends on the locality.
>>>
>>> E.g. HRYRA (Hudson River) and YRALIS (Long Island Sound) only allow one
>>> cert per boat, and one change to the cert per year. I believe this was to
>>> discourage to using a different cert for different conditions. E.g. declare
>>> a 155% for summer and light wind and declare a smaller headsail for fall
>>> and heavier wind.
>>>
>>> PHRF-NB (Narraganset Bay) allows more than one cert per boat. But I am
>>> not sure for what conditions they allow it.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 1:58 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Eric,
>>>>
>>>> Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the
>>>> pole? I'm

Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Jobs to do when dip jibing symmetrical chute/ Ideal setup.

1. Main trimmer (jibes main)
2. Foredeck (switches pole to new working guy)
3. Mast (raises and lowers pole on mast, lowers and raises the topping lift)
4. Chute trimmer
5. Guy trimmer (squares pole)
6. Helm
7. Pit (check stays)
8. Floater (tends misc. lines when trimmer and guy change sides)

Sure people can do more than one job. And sometimes with inexperience crew
you are better off that way (4-5 good crew are essential). But you won't be
as fast and as precise short-handed as a crew who can execute.  You wont be
as fast as jibing an asym and you will avoid Jibing when it may be
advantageous.

In any weather, the helm should only be steering and someone should be
tending the main. The results of divided attention during can be really
bad.

On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 3:51 PM, Susan Kaseler <skis...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have been sitting on my hands about responding to this but I don’t
> understand why you need 6 to 7 on board to fly a symmetrical shoot. This
> number of crew is great for keeping the boat flat but I’ve never been so
> lucky to attract that many crew. Maybe we needed better lunch and beer. SLY
> is only a 33 footer and yours is 36 but when we raced competitively we
> seldom had more than 3 on board and almost always flew the shoot. We “end
> for end” jibe which might be more difficult on the 36 than the 33 and I
> have little experience doing a dip pole jibe but I don’t believe it takes
> more people. When the wind filled in we used “lazy guys” which provided a
> great deal more control. In my opinion it’s nice to have a full compliment
> of players when racing and flying the symmetrical shoot but not necessary.
> When we were 3, we were careful to avoid the need for a jibe set. The
> foredeck crew would set up the turtle, set the pole to its approximate
> position with it clipped to the guy not the sail and then would move to the
> halyard. The helmsman would do her magic and the third would control the
> sheet and guy. Or the lazy guy if weather dictated. Not the ideal situation
> but possible on SLY. For the jibe the helmsman steered straight downwind,
> the foredeck guy removed the pole from the mast, clipped it to the lazy guy
> or the sheet, held the pole perpendicular to the wind and waited for the
> call from the helmsman to release the new sheet and fasten the new free end
> of the pole to the mast. The third handled the sheet and guy to keep the
> sail full as the helmsman headed up to the new course. There have been many
> club Races were we were just two and still flew the shoot but I can’t
> recommend that. My wife, the skipper, is not fond of steering with her
> knees while handling the sheet and guy while I’m yelling at her to let a
> couple of inches off the topping lift.
> Not always easy but we made it happen and had a lot of fun doing it.
> Dave.
> 1975 C 33
> SLY
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 31, 2018, at 12:13 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Depends on the locality.
>
> E.g. HRYRA (Hudson River) and YRALIS (Long Island Sound) only allow one
> cert per boat, and one change to the cert per year. I believe this was to
> discourage to using a different cert for different conditions. E.g. declare
> a 155% for summer and light wind and declare a smaller headsail for fall
> and heavier wind.
>
> PHRF-NB (Narraganset Bay) allows more than one cert per boat. But I am not
> sure for what conditions they allow it.
>
> Eric
>
> On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 1:58 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Eric,
>>
>> Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the
>> pole? I'm considering adding a sprit and top down furler for single handed
>> races.
>>
>>
>> On January 31, 2018 at 10:47 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> That is in place of a standard spin and pole. If you declare both Asym on
>> sprit and Symmetrical on pole you will get a PHRF penalty.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 8:24 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Eric
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> When you say YRALIS allows 24% with no penalty is that in addition to a
>>> standard spin pole and Symmetric spinnaker or in place of the standard
>>> pole/spin?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Persistence
>>>
>>> Halifax
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Eric
>>> Baumes via CnC-List
>>> *Se

Re: Stus-List Insurance issues

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You mentioned the $0 deductible that Geico/BoatUS now "provides". While
that is technically true, it has been replaced with a depreciation curve on
parts. I found this out this year after a claim.

I had to have my steering pedestal replaced after a weather related
incident. The new parts were depreciated (either by 40% or to 40% cant
remember). So under the old $500 deductible that is what I would have paid.
Under the new scheme I wound up paying $700+ for the depreciation on the
parts.

A friend of mine also had a claim this year after a grounding, the cost of
which was several times the cost of the pedestal. He paid about the same
out of pocked because the bulk of the repair was labor.

We were talking about this and discussed what would happen if either of our
boats (20+ and 30+ years old) were to be dis masted. If the boat were not
totaled, the bulk of the repair would be parts (spar and rigging) which
would be depreciated by some %. If the total repair were 40k of which 30k
or more were parts and the depreciation were 50% you could be on the hook
for 15k.

I have had BoatUS for more than 15 years across three boats. and I have had
claims for a lightning strike, named storm damage and the most recent
claim. I can say they have always been responsive and great to work with.

That said, their new "no deductible" policy has me seriously considering
shopping for a new policy.

Eric
C 34/36+



On Tue, Feb 6, 2018 at 10:48 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Staying with BoatUS too.   Got a few other quotes and was not impressed
> especially as I have $0 deductible now.   I have heard all good things when
> the you-know-what hits the fan and you have to file a claim.
>
>
> And.  Just called them to add our 9' restored Dyer sail Dink.   She made a
> note and the little guy is insured for 5k.   Easy Peasy.  Both dinghys
> insured under the Mother Ship.
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 6, 2018 10:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Insurance issues
>
> My Allstate agent said no way would Allstate touch a 35 foot boat.
> I had one claim with BOATUS and I could not be happier with the service.
> Basically "get it fixed, have the yard fax us the bill". We hit an
> underwater something, not sure what, and it bent the prop shaft.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Howard and Skippy via
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 9:46 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Howard and Skippy 
> Subject: Stus-List Insurance issues
>
> Insurance experience
> My C 35-3 has been insured by Allstate for the last 25 years and I
> have experience with 3 major claims. Once, while transiting Plum Gut
> with my son at the helm, doing about 8 kts with the big chute up, we hit
> an unseen, underground spire submerged 6' below the surface. 20k later
> Allstate covered all but the 500 deductible and there was no increase in
> rate which has held at about 5-600 with an insured value of 60k + 6k for
> "accessories" for the duration of coverage.   About 10-15 years ago, the
> boat, during a storm, was blown off its jack stands when the cover
> caught one of the stands causing hull and rigging damage. some 20+k
> later, Allstate handled the claim speedily and without premium increase.
> The boat was totaled in Super Storm Sandy. After a 45K payout, Allstate
> gave me the boat along with the check. I used the $ to rebuild the boat
> and she is as good as or better now than new. There has been no real
> increase in premium. I can only praise Allstate in that they are 1/2 the
> cost of Boat US, have been easy to work with and have stuck with me
> through  3 major incidents.
> Howard Paul, skipper Knot Again
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://nam02.safelinks.
> protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%
> 2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C2d1535e551044a773fcd08d56d784144%
> 7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636535285608621984=
> 0epYV5YAyA2O2gJD%2FAHLHbt37OJquMvAy9GB%2BNq1Zmw%3D=0
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://nam02.safelinks.
> protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%
> 2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C2d1535e551044a773fcd08d56d784144%
> 7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636535285608621984=
> 

Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Depends on the locality.

E.g. HRYRA (Hudson River) and YRALIS (Long Island Sound) only allow one
cert per boat, and one change to the cert per year. I believe this was to
discourage to using a different cert for different conditions. E.g. declare
a 155% for summer and light wind and declare a smaller headsail for fall
and heavier wind.

PHRF-NB (Narraganset Bay) allows more than one cert per boat. But I am not
sure for what conditions they allow it.

Eric

On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 1:58 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Eric,
>
> Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the pole?
> I'm considering adding a sprit and top down furler for single handed races.
>
>
> On January 31, 2018 at 10:47 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That is in place of a standard spin and pole. If you declare both Asym on
> sprit and Symmetrical on pole you will get a PHRF penalty.
>
> Eric
>
> On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 8:24 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Eric
>>
>>
>>
>> When you say YRALIS allows 24% with no penalty is that in addition to a
>> standard spin pole and Symmetric spinnaker or in place of the standard
>> pole/spin?
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Eric
>> Baumes via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 30, 2018 8:32 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list
>> *Cc:* Eric Baumes
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> I did this a few years ago on my 34/36+ Brief write up here
>> http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project
>>
>>
>>
>> Here is the pertinent information on sizing.
>>
>>
>>
>> *PHRF Regulations*
>>
>> The YRALIS allows for a retrofit bowsprit to be 24% of J without penalty
>> for Windward/Leward racing. For distance racing it asseses a -6 second
>> penalty.
>>
>> To support an unsupported length of ~52 inches, the Selden Selden 99mm
>> Aluminum Bowsprit Kit - 10.4 Ft. was required. The 52 inches is comprised
>> of the 42 in beyond the forestay allowed by PHRF plus the forward ring was
>> mounted approximately 10" behind the forestay on the deck.
>>
>> If you have the same Harken furler and bow roller there is just enough
>> room.
>>
>> This is something you can DIY.
>>
>> The uncut sprit was just over the limit for UPS so I had them cut it to
>> avoid the freight charge.
>>
>> Let me know if you have any questions.
>>
>>
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> 1993 34/36+
>>
>> Hee Soo
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 7:20 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Difficulties in finding enough crew to fly my masthead kite (~7-8) have
>> me thinking of adding a sprit with asym kite to make it possible to be
>> competitive in the spin fleet with less crew (~ 4-6). I only had   6 for
>> our last race and the wind was 10-15 so we decided to forego the kite and
>> took a 1st, 2nd and 3rd (only 3 boats competed). This weekend I am down to
>> only 4 so probably won't compete, giving up a solid 2nd with a poss 1st if
>> my crew were not in the BVI, etc. My thoughts are solely to have the option
>> to use the asym if I don't have enough crew to do the symm Masthead kite so
>> I would likely keep the asym size such that my rating is not changed.
>> Thoughts on this plan from the list would be appreciated.
>> I do realize that this is a complicated issue and I may have to get some
>> expert advice on sprit length, asym sail size/shape not to mention figuring
>> out how to fly it but I am starting with the collective list wisdom.
>> Thanks,
>> Charlie Nelson
>> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>> (Rob Ball design)
>> Water Phantom
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

That is in place of a standard spin and pole. If you declare both Asym on
sprit and Symmetrical on pole you will get a PHRF penalty.

Eric

On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 8:24 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Eric
>
>
>
> When you say YRALIS allows 24% with no penalty is that in addition to a
> standard spin pole and Symmetric spinnaker or in place of the standard
> pole/spin?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Eric
> Baumes via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 30, 2018 8:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Eric Baumes
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I did this a few years ago on my 34/36+ Brief write up here
> http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project
>
>
>
> Here is the pertinent information on sizing.
>
>
>
> *PHRF Regulations*
>
> The YRALIS allows for a retrofit bowsprit to be 24% of J without penalty
> for Windward/Leward racing. For distance racing it asseses a -6 second
> penalty.
>
> To support an unsupported length of ~52 inches, the Selden Selden 99mm
> Aluminum Bowsprit Kit - 10.4 Ft. was required. The 52 inches is comprised
> of the 42 in beyond the forestay allowed by PHRF plus the forward ring was
> mounted approximately 10" behind the forestay on the deck.
>
> If you have the same Harken furler and bow roller there is just enough
> room.
>
> This is something you can DIY.
>
> The uncut sprit was just over the limit for UPS so I had them cut it to
> avoid the freight charge.
>
> Let me know if you have any questions.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
> 1993 34/36+
>
> Hee Soo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 7:20 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Difficulties in finding enough crew to fly my masthead kite (~7-8) have me
> thinking of adding a sprit with asym kite to make it possible to be
> competitive in the spin fleet with less crew (~ 4-6). I only had   6 for
> our last race and the wind was 10-15 so we decided to forego the kite and
> took a 1st, 2nd and 3rd (only 3 boats competed). This weekend I am down to
> only 4 so probably won't compete, giving up a solid 2nd with a poss 1st if
> my crew were not in the BVI, etc. My thoughts are solely to have the option
> to use the asym if I don't have enough crew to do the symm Masthead kite so
> I would likely keep the asym size such that my rating is not changed.
> Thoughts on this plan from the list would be appreciated.
> I do realize that this is a complicated issue and I may have to get some
> expert advice on sprit length, asym sail size/shape not to mention figuring
> out how to fly it but I am starting with the collective list wisdom.
> Thanks,
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> (Rob Ball design)
> Water Phantom
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

To answer some of your other questions.

I have a .75 A2 runner. It is about 25% bigger in area than the symmetrical
kite--ALIR allows SMG to be calculated of of J + sprint length.

It is generally easier to rig, hoist and fly the Asym. One change is that
instead of using a turtle to launch of the deck and re-packing between
legs, we now launch and dowse from the forward hatch. The bigger kite is
really a pain to have to repack, so when we dowse we leave everything but
the halyard rigged.

In light/moderate wind 4 crew can handle the kite. I sailed a distance race
with 3 once. I have done 4 in 15-20 and it is a lot of work.

Jibing overall is a lot easier, but if you are doing an inside jibe, then
the helmsman has to be very attentive. If you throw the helm over too
quickly then the chute will wrap around the forestay.

There are some good videos on Jibing an Asym on Youtube.

Eric

PS When my crew complains about anything (cheap beer, American cheese on
sandwiches, etc.)  I threaten them that I will go back to the Symmetrical.
They usually shape up after that.

On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 7:32 PM, Eric Baumes  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I did this a few years ago on my 34/36+ Brief write up here
> http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project
>
> Here is the pertinent information on sizing.
>
> *PHRF Regulations*
>
> The YRALIS allows for a retrofit bowsprit to be 24% of J without penalty
> for Windward/Leward racing. For distance racing it asseses a -6 second
> penalty.
>
> To support an unsupported length of ~52 inches, the Selden Selden 99mm
> Aluminum Bowsprit Kit - 10.4 Ft. was required. The 52 inches is comprised
> of the 42 in beyond the forestay allowed by PHRF plus the forward ring was
> mounted approximately 10" behind the forestay on the deck.
>
> If you have the same Harken furler and bow roller there is just enough
> room.
>
> This is something you can DIY.
>
> The uncut sprit was just over the limit for UPS so I had them cut it to
> avoid the freight charge.
>
> Let me know if you have any questions.
>
> Eric
> 1993 34/36+
> Hee Soo
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 7:20 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Difficulties in finding enough crew to fly my masthead kite (~7-8) have
>> me thinking of adding a sprit with asym kite to make it possible to be
>> competitive in the spin fleet with less crew (~ 4-6). I only had   6 for
>> our last race and the wind was 10-15 so we decided to forego the kite and
>> took a 1st, 2nd and 3rd (only 3 boats competed). This weekend I am down to
>> only 4 so probably won't compete, giving up a solid 2nd with a poss 1st if
>> my crew were not in the BVI, etc. My thoughts are solely to have the option
>> to use the asym if I don't have enough crew to do the symm Masthead kite so
>> I would likely keep the asym size such that my rating is not changed.
>> Thoughts on this plan from the list would be appreciated.
>> I do realize that this is a complicated issue and I may have to get some
>> expert advice on sprit length, asym sail size/shape not to mention figuring
>> out how to fly it but I am starting with the collective list wisdom.
>> Thanks,
>> Charlie Nelson
>> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>> (Rob Ball design)
>> Water Phantom
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hi,

I did this a few years ago on my 34/36+ Brief write up here
http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project

Here is the pertinent information on sizing.

*PHRF Regulations*

The YRALIS allows for a retrofit bowsprit to be 24% of J without penalty
for Windward/Leward racing. For distance racing it asseses a -6 second
penalty.

To support an unsupported length of ~52 inches, the Selden Selden 99mm
Aluminum Bowsprit Kit - 10.4 Ft. was required. The 52 inches is comprised
of the 42 in beyond the forestay allowed by PHRF plus the forward ring was
mounted approximately 10" behind the forestay on the deck.

If you have the same Harken furler and bow roller there is just enough room.

This is something you can DIY.

The uncut sprit was just over the limit for UPS so I had them cut it to
avoid the freight charge.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Eric
1993 34/36+
Hee Soo




On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 7:20 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Difficulties in finding enough crew to fly my masthead kite (~7-8) have me
> thinking of adding a sprit with asym kite to make it possible to be
> competitive in the spin fleet with less crew (~ 4-6). I only had   6 for
> our last race and the wind was 10-15 so we decided to forego the kite and
> took a 1st, 2nd and 3rd (only 3 boats competed). This weekend I am down to
> only 4 so probably won't compete, giving up a solid 2nd with a poss 1st if
> my crew were not in the BVI, etc. My thoughts are solely to have the option
> to use the asym if I don't have enough crew to do the symm Masthead kite so
> I would likely keep the asym size such that my rating is not changed.
> Thoughts on this plan from the list would be appreciated.
> I do realize that this is a complicated issue and I may have to get some
> expert advice on sprit length, asym sail size/shape not to mention figuring
> out how to fly it but I am starting with the collective list wisdom.
> Thanks,
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> (Rob Ball design)
> Water Phantom
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

So my 34/36 has the wires from the pedestal running down the tubes and
through the cockpit floor and the wires come out essentially in the back of
the aft cabin.

When ever I have had to do anything with wires etc. the only way to stop
the water coming in is to pump a lot of stuff (in my case 4200) into the
hole where the wires penetrate the cabin sole. Whenever I have had to pull
a new cable I inevitably pull out a blob of 4200 and have to do it over.

I also wrapped the entry holes where the wires enter the pedestal guard
with self-sealing tape to prevent water from entering up top and pooling in
the tubes. Usually I need to pump in the first blobs (some of which drips
out) wait for it to set then pump more in until it is more or less solid.
Once you get enough in there the leak will stop.

Eric
34/36




On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 11:05 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> New Edson pedestal guard feet come with a set of flexible rubber gaskets
> for each foot. Two for each foot.  One has a center hole which is used when
> you run wiring through the guard and the other is solid.  I suspect a call
> to Edson would likely yield a free gasket or two if you asked
> nicely..They’re like that regarding customer service.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 16, 2018, at 8:54 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The pedestal guard tends to move a lot where it contacts floor since many
> use it as a handhold and put torque on it.  I would think Butyl due to this
> constant flexing would be an excellent idea
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Ron Ricci via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 16, 2018 9:33 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ron Ricci
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
>
>
>
> Bruce,
>
>
>
> I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The
> pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that
> hold it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed
> around the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed
> back down so the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The
> pedestal guard feet are held against the deck.  It worked.
>
>
>
> The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located
> top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the
> cables, I could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom
> of the feet were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above
> fix above did not work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and
> adding lock nuts to hold the feet down..
>
>
>
> Ron
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Whitmore via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
>
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
>
> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth
> mattress foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming
> from the starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate
> the cockpit floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by
> applying a small layer of aluminum duct tape at the point where the
> stainless tubing penetrates the stainless foot. There is a hard plastic
> spacer that fills the gap between the tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem
> to be made of the proper material to be properly water resistant.
>
>
>
> So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself,
> where it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is
> finished with teak).
>
>
>
> What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get
> is coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining
> our new fabric!
>
>
>
> I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard,
> and applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how
> would I also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its
> way between the tube and the foot?
>
>
>
> Thanks for your ideas!
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 

Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C 37/40+

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I think they are Lewmars. My '93 34+ has a lot of Lewmar stuff, traveller,
blocks, etc.

Eric

On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 6:14 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is there any indication on the tracks and cars you have now who
> manufactured them?  They don't look like either Harken or Schaefer.  And
> they don't seem to match anything shown on Rig-Rite's pages either:
> http://www.rigrite.com/A-Main/traveller_M.php
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 19 December 2017 at 18:42, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Here is a photo of the car:  https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7xj
>> okgr6ndss8u/Track%20Car.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> Here is a photo of the end of the track:  https://www.dropbox.com/s/hj5g
>> ygo52qf25p9/Track%20Photo%20%231.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> And here is a photo of the track:  https://www.dropbox.com/s/80ao
>> xpg4igj3pmv/Track%20Photo%20%233.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> 
>> Can anyone here suggest a solution for retrofitting adjustable cars to
>> this track?  Garhauer was only $430 for the full kit (both sides), but the
>> cars don't fit the track, and they say they can't match it.  Have any of
>> you had luck with getting Garhauer to make a car to match this track?
>>
>> I really don't want to spend more than twice the Garhauer price.  I'm not
>> going to race, and I need $1,000 more than I need adjustable cars...
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>>
>> --
>> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> *To:* CnClist 
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 19, 2017 4:37 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C 37/40+
>>
>> I have Lewmar Size 1's.  They're OK but I'm not overly happy with them.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 2:34 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I was wondering if you folks might be able to give me some guidance.  I
>> ordered adjustable Genoa track cars from Garhauer, and even sent them a
>> photo of the track.  When they got here, the cars won't fit - they will not
>> even slide over the track.  I sent new photos to Garhauer, and Guido looked
>> at them and informed me that not only do they not make adjustable cars that
>> fit, they can't even custom make them.
>>
>> Have you folks obtained adjustable cars, and if so, from where?
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> __ _
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>
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Re: Stus-List Asym sheet size

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

PS I fly a really big Asym on a sprit.

On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 6:43 PM, Eric Baumes  wrote:

> Sounds good.
>
> Similar to what I use on my C 34+
>
> 3/8" for normal sheets.
>
> The light air sheets 5/16 with the cover stripped for about 1/3 of the
> length.
>
> The 5/16 are plenty strong, but the 3/8 are better on the hands in heavier
> wind.
>
> On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 12:16 PM, steve dewar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just picked up an asym spinnaker for my C 35. I want to get two sets
>> of sheets. One will be 3/8 diameter for normal use and the other will be
>> 1/4 diameter for light air. Do these sizes sound right?
>> Thanks Steve
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Asym sheet size

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Sounds good.

Similar to what I use on my C 34+

3/8" for normal sheets.

The light air sheets 5/16 with the cover stripped for about 1/3 of the
length.

The 5/16 are plenty strong, but the 3/8 are better on the hands in heavier
wind.

On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 12:16 PM, steve dewar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just picked up an asym spinnaker for my C 35. I want to get two sets
> of sheets. One will be 3/8 diameter for normal use and the other will be
> 1/4 diameter for light air. Do these sizes sound right?
> Thanks Steve
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List VHB tape for fixed ports

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I have the new windows for my C 34/36 and am going to go the VHB route.

Looking at past posts seems VHB #5952 is the way to go.

There seem to be many options in terms of color, width and thickness.

Any one with at 34/36 or 37/40 who has done this with VHB have any advice?

Thanks,

Eric
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I just installed a brand new Triton system with Zeus 2. When we got
everything wired up and plugged in the Wind transducer, it blanked the data
on the system. If I unplugged it, the data would come back.

I called B and they had me return the wind transducer and have mailed me
a new one. I am yet to try the new one.

I was not particularly impressed with their tech support. They didn't ask
me any questions, just told me to mail the transducer back. Their ticketing
system told me they received it and that someone was looking at it. And
then without any other communication I got a shipping notice.

We will see what happens when I try the new one.

Eric
S/V Hee Soo
C 34/36


On Mon, May 29, 2017 at 9:46 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Partial luck today.  No success restarting from the Zeus, I never could
> get it to see any devices.  After that, I pretty much took the system apart
> and built it up piece by piece starting with a depth/speed transducer and a
> single display.  Once that worked, I added things back in and figured out
> the issue is either the wind transducer or the cable in the mast going up
> to it.  The minute I add that to the system at the base of the mast, the
> NMEA 2000 network just crashes.  Take it out and all the other devices work
> and see each other immediately. The cable does not show any shorts and the
> blue/white pair registers 120 ohms when isolated from the rest of the
> system, indicating connectivity all the way the termination point in the
> transducer.  Because of that and the dramatic results when it is wired in,
> I suspect the transducer itself, but have a message into B support to get
> their advice.  I added another terminator at the base of the mast and left
> the transducer out of the system for the time being to at least have speed,
> depth, heading and AIS data for now.  Thanks for the suggestions, I will
> post again when I get some resolution.
>
>
>
> Jim Reinardy
>
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
>
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
>
> *From:* Jim Reinardy [mailto:firewa...@reinardy.us]
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 27, 2017 9:18 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; C List 
> *Cc:* Gary Russell 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down
>
>
>
> Thanks, Gary.  I will try that.  I initialized it from one of the Tritons
> but not the Zeus.  Currently, the Zeus only sees itself.
>
>
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for iOS 
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 8:46 PM -0500, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The bus must be initialized by the Zeus MFD.  Try  reinitializing the
> network from the Zeus2.  As I recall, it will tell you what devices it sees
> on the network.
>
> Gary
>
> S/V Kaylarah
>
> '90 C 37+
>
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 5:01 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Having big instrument issues to start the season and going crazy trying to
> figure it out. This is all B equipment including a Zeus Touch 7 and three
> Triton displays.  All displays power up fine but I am getting no data from
> wind, depth, speed or compass transducers.  The diagnostic on the displays
> say that the NMEA 2000 bus is off, but I don't know why.
>
>
>
> The red and black wires show 12v at all points I can measure.  The
> resistance of white and blue is 60 ohms with both ends terminated, 120 ohms
> with either terminator off, and about 20k ohms with both terminators off.
> This seems normal based on articles I found online. I have also tried
> taking each piece of equipment out of the loop as best I can.  Nothing I do
> seems to give me a network.  Any ideas what I am missing?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Jim Reinardy
>
> C 30-2 "Firewater"
>
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for iOS 
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the input.

The consensus is 9mm (~3/8) Plexiglass (cast acrylic) flat sheet will work.

Eric
S/V Hee Soo
34/36


On Tue, Apr 4, 2017 at 4:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done
> some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems to
> come up.
> I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of 9mm
> acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't seem
> like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or availability.
>
> I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the replacement
> this spring.
>
> Mark
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2017-04-04 3:35 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/blog/2011/05/08/175/
>>
>> Gives a good explanation  but its clearer, and harder more scratch
>> resistant, and similar properties in all directions.
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
>> Whitmore via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:21 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.
>>
>> Hi Paul,
>>
>> I don't remember the reason.  Why cast?   What is the other type?
>>
>> Kindest Regards,
>>
>> Bruce
>> 847.404.5092
>>
>> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>>
>> On Apr 4, 2017, at 2:13 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> And be sure its cast ...
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:01 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.
>>>
>>> Remember to use plexiglass, not Lexan.  Lexan will scratch and craze.
>>>
>>> Kindest Regards,
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>> 847.404.5092
>>>
>>> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>>>
>>> On Apr 4, 2017, at 12:39 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I spoke to a local fabricator about making the windows.
>>>>
>>>> We spoke for a while about the curvature of the windows and whether
>>>> they would have to be thermoformed.
>>>>
>>>> I know the windows curve to match the curve of the cabin top, but are
>>>> they at all curved vertically?
>>>>
>>>> Researching Lexan is seems you can cold bend it as long as the radius
>>>> is 10x the thickness.
>>>>
>>>> For anyone who has done this on a 34/36 or 37/40, were the replacement
>>>> windows flat stock?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Eric
>>>> S/V Hee Soo
>>>> 34/36
>>>> ___
>>>>
>>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>>
>>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I spoke to a local fabricator about making the windows.

We spoke for a while about the curvature of the windows and whether they
would have to be thermoformed.

I know the windows curve to match the curve of the cabin top, but are they
at all curved vertically?

Researching Lexan is seems you can cold bend it as long as the radius is
10x the thickness.

For anyone who has done this on a 34/36 or 37/40, were the replacement
windows flat stock?

Thanks,

Eric
S/V Hee Soo
34/36
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Stus-List Window thickness

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Starting the project of replacing my windows on 34/36.

Made the templates yesterday, but forgot to measure the thickness of the
lexan.

Anyone know offhand what this is? It looked to be about 1/4 in.

It would save me a drive back up to the boat.

Eric

S/V Hee Soo
C 34/36
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Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

This is the harbour they were trying to get out of or into. One report I
read said they were on their way out.

The boat went under the pier into the triangle area.

Really scary stuff.

https://goo.gl/maps/xpKnuNA4GZw

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 4:19 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Watching the "full version" first minute or two, looks like the main's
> luff was separated from the mast, and the crew was busy gathering up the
> main and trying to re-feed its luff.  He might have been able to run
> downwind on starboard tack under jib alone (don't know where that would
> have led), but then he gybed to port and couldn't make enough way to avoid
> the pier or not get tripped.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"CnClist" 
> *Cc: *"Dennis" 
> *Sent: *Friday, March 31, 2017 12:44:21 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night
>
>
> Here's a nice video of it.
>
> https://youtu.be/Isufp-6fudo
>
> They looked a bit casual right before the wave.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:55 PM, RANDY via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash
>>
>> Looks like a Capri 18.
>>
>> Done right:
>> 1. All crew wearing PFDs.
>> 2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue.
>>
>> Mistakes?
>> 1. Only had the jib up?  Hard to head up under jib alone.
>> 2. No auxiliary power?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> (from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend)
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>>
>>
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Where to get parts for old Lewmar Winches?

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Found the old email. That is where I got them.

On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 5:03 PM, Eric Baumes  wrote:

> I think I got some parts for an old lewmar here
>
> http://www.winchspares.com/ I can't find any old emails, but their
> address was in my contact list.
>
> They might be located in the UK, but they were pretty reasonable (shipping
> excluded)
>
> Eric
>
> On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 4:56 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> One of my primaries, a Lewmar Three Speed 48, has a part, I think it was
>> just interior to the top plate, that is plastic with one or two posts that
>> springs attach to. This is cracked and I need to replace it to get the
>> lowest speed and button working again.
>>
>> This is on a 1983 C 35 Mk3.
>> (I don’t know if these winches were original to the boat.)
>>
>> Anyone know where I can find parts for old Lemar winches?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Matthew Schlanger
>> ---
>> *The Office*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Where to get parts for old Lewmar Winches?

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I think I got some parts for an old lewmar here

http://www.winchspares.com/ I can't find any old emails, but their address
was in my contact list.

They might be located in the UK, but they were pretty reasonable (shipping
excluded)

Eric

On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 4:56 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One of my primaries, a Lewmar Three Speed 48, has a part, I think it was
> just interior to the top plate, that is plastic with one or two posts that
> springs attach to. This is cracked and I need to replace it to get the
> lowest speed and button working again.
>
> This is on a 1983 C 35 Mk3.
> (I don’t know if these winches were original to the boat.)
>
> Anyone know where I can find parts for old Lemar winches?
>
> Thanks
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> ---
> *The Office*
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Anyone need/want a really big wheel?

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hi,

I like the idea of the Edson Rail Mount, but I have a question for anyone
who has used one.

How do you ensure that you don't lose the Key from the Wheelshaft?

In the winter when I take the wheel off so I can get to the back of the
cockpit under the cover, I wrap the Wheelshaft with the key in it with
masking tape.  I suppose I could do the same while cruising but I am
wondering if anyone else had a more elegant solution.

Eric
C 34/36 --  Big wheel and love it.



On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 4:28 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> About a year ago, I had a problem with bigger-wheel envy and I asked the
> list-perts here about a wheel I subsequently purchased on E-Bay.  It was
> less than 1/16 too small for my Edson 1" shaft and had wheel reamed at a
> local machine shop (as suggested here) to fit.  Went from a 36" to 44"
> wheel on my 35-3.
>
> Now the point:  Absolutely best move...other than looking "correct" to my
> eye, I agree with everyone here about the functional upgrade.  Sailing is
> much easier and more options to sit (I also removed the camel-hump).
> Girlfriend would rather have the room afforded by the old wheel...so I
> really like your link to the Edson rail-mounted storage clamp.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
>
> (517)-490-5926 <(517)%20490-5926>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
>
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I switched to an asymmetrical with a retrofit bow sprit. I'll never gybe a
symmetrical chute again.

After the first gybe with the new setup, my crew confessed that used to
dread when the boat turned downwind.

For everything to work well on a dip gybe you need 7. Now I can fly the
chute and gybe with as few as 2 crew.

In light wind we sail the angle we probably should have sailed with the
symmetrical. In heavy air we can sail pretty deep.

Eric

C 34/36

On Wed, Dec 7, 2016 at 8:23 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> And that is why I don't race.  Great video.
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Dec 6, 2016, at 11:40 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That video is an all time classic in my book. I can not believe it doesn't
> have a gazillion views.
>
> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016, 6:58 PM John McKay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Damn Kevin I howled
>>
>> How often did I hear these conversation the last racing season!
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 5:40 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Not sure why the ass end of the boat has so much difficulty following
>> instructions: https://youtu.be/4MRunq1y2_A
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:45 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Another aspect of smoother end for end gybes with sheets and guys is
>> having the foredeck make certain there is plenty of slack lazy guy at the
>> chain plates prior to beginning the maneuver – how much slack is determined
>> through practice.  When the pole is trimmed back as the boat turns down,
>> and then tripped, the spin trimmer controls the kite with both sheets and
>> there is no load on the new guy.  The mast man / foredeck should be able to
>> drop the new guy into the jaw and push the pole out and make it on the mast
>> without any real load on the pole via the guy.  The guy trimmer only trims
>> back the new guy after the call of “Made” is heard from the foredeck, and
>> then the spin trimmer eases the weather spin sheet as the new guy is
>> brought in.
>>
>> And of course, the helmsman has to not turn up to the new course until
>> that call as well…
>>
>> All it takes is a lot of practice to get everyone on the same page…  ;)
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
>> C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 06, 2016 3:04 PM
>> *To:* CnClist 
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
>>
>> Think about it like this, if the center seam on the bottom panel of the
>> chute is directly ahead of the boat (centered on the forestay) it is easy
>> to move the chute side to side to make the pole on either side.  If the
>> center seam has prematurely crossed the forestay to the leeward side then
>> the foredeck person has to push the sail back to windward to make the pole.
>> A simple light air practice exercise is to center the main, steer the
>> boat keeping the Windex *CENTERED *between the tabs and then have the
>> foredeck gybe the chute back and forth a few times.  Put a piece of tape on
>> the center seam of the bottom panel to give a visible reference to the
>> forestay.
>> When racing, if the foredeck can complete the gybe and have the pole made
>> on the mast while the Windex is still well between the tabs, it should go
>> smoothly.  The speed of the turn is controlled by the helmsperson!  Watch
>> the center seam!
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:30 PM, John McKay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yikes, and I have been blaming it on the foredeck guys!
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 12:09 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> As someone who does the pointy end on multiple racing boats, I fully
>> concur. Almost all of the FUBAR kite moments are down to the ham-fisted
>> monkey at the blunt end [image: ��]
>> Cheers,
>> Paul.
>>
>> 1974 27' MkII
>> Sidney, BC.
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> 

Re: Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I use these
http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html
and they work really well. they do wear out after a season or two.

Eric Baumes
34/36+

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 5:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Someone on the list found a bunch of cleat chocks on their boat after
> purchasing.  They were made of wood, could've even been homemade.  They
> couldn't figure out what they were so they asked the list.  Looked similar
> to the ones from APS.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Nov 13, 2016 4:30 PM, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> A USA source for the second one I included in my previous email:
>
> http://www.apsltd.com/cleat-chocks-pair.html
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 13 November 2016 at 17:23, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
>>
>> On 13 November 2016 at 16:37, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> cleat covers
>>
>>
>> Charlie,
>>
>> Would something like this work?
>>
>> http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html
>>
>> or this?
>>
>> http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-2-
>> pack.ir?cName=boat-classes-squib-accessories
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List VMG at the helm.

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

The simplest way when you are going upwind is get your crew out of the
cockpit. They should be on the rail in the middle of the boat. Our boats
like to sail flat and if you can get the transom out of the water you will
be faster as well.

Eric
C 34/36

On Mon, Oct 31, 2016 at 3:00 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all;
>
> Although I have VMG (or at least its approximate equivalent) available
> from my Garmin 746 Chart plotter and can display it on one of my 4 Garmin
> displays above the companionway, I find it difficult to see it with crew in
> the cockpit and I don't like putting my head into the boat looking down at
> the chart-plotter mounted above the binnacle while I am trying my best to
> go hard on the wind.
>
> OK-OK--I know this hardly qualifies as a serious problem!!
>
> Nonetheless, I am looking for the simplest solution that allows me to see
> the VMG either on my iphone (hard to read with sunglasses on), or a 'smart
> watch' which may have the same problem. I realize I could use
> another battery powered GPS but I would need to mount it and operate it
> while trying to get my head in to the race at the same time.
>
> Ideally glasses with a heads-up display of it would have it in front of me
> no matter what else was going on.
>
> Any listers have solutions or ideas? My simpleminded thought is to put the
> RC or starting line in as a MOB mark and then use either the
> largest negative VMG upwind from it to guide me at the helm and the
> largest positive VMG downwind from it find the best AWA. This would likely
> give me the best course to steer no matter how true the course is to
> windward.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb 1995
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List ST4000+

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

If you haven't already, try cleaning the contacts on the control head. My
old ST4000 started acting up and this fixed it.

Eric
C 34/36

On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 7:42 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a peculiar problem, My ST4000+ display no longer displays my rudder
> indicator, altho it still seems to be wired in ok.
>
> Also, my heading was locked in at 243 degrees.  This makes my little boat
> on the chart plotter point to 243 degrees, and I cannot  use the autopilot.
> When I try that, it says “No Data”. I noticed last nite that the heading
> changed several times, not actually working, but just a new frozen number.
>
> At first I thought it was the Fluxgate Compass, but Now I am wondering if
> it could be the display, as I have two separate inputs that are screwing up.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I think he means One Design.

On Tue, Jul 19, 2016 at 6:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Way to go Michael!
>
> One question: what did you mean by "OD" (in "It is not a OD where a
> computer has figured out the precise point to set everything, and
> anything even slightly off is slower").
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Michael Brown via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Michael Brown" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 19, 2016 7:59:18 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing
>
> I am just back from 47 hours of racing a C 30-1, the Lake Ontario 300
> Scotch Bonnet course. We do the Double Handed Flying Sail class, and
> carry both a symmetrical and asymmetrical spinnakers.
>
> As usual Lake Ontario presents a wide range of sailing conditions even
> over 2 days, ranging from dead air for a couple of hours trying to round
> Scotch Bonnet to 31 kts apparent on the nose coming in to the Niagara mark.
>
> The 30-1 seems to handle everything OK. Hard to summarize any specific
> characteristics but as others have mentioned upgrade the rigging so you
> can correctly trim the sails even under heavy load. Despite being 30' they
> lines will load up a lot. I have the big boat harken main traveler with a
> 4:1 primary sheet and a further 4:1 fine adjuster. I put on captive ball
> genoa tracks this year and adjust them all the time now under load.
>
> There is still some magic in these old boats. Windburn took first in class,
> first in fleet ( pretty much the same ) and first corrected all boats in
> the
> Scotch Bonnet course. We had aspirations of line honors even against
> boats like the J/33, Jenneau 50 and C 115 but the aforementioned
> dead air at Scotch Bonnet killed our miles of lead over the fleet.
>
> So sail your C 30 hard, watch your VMG and trim constantly. It is
> not a OD where a computer has figured out the precise point to set
> everything, and anything even slightly off is slower. The 30-1 will
> handle way more sail area in a breeze than conventional wisdom
> will recommend.
>
> And have lots of fun!
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
> Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2016 09:15:57 -0400
> From: "Gary Nylander" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing
> Message-ID: <000501d1e1bf$bc5dc4c0$35194e40$@atlanticbb.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Recommend not to pinch, the boat seems to want to be free. Also, you
> should have inboard genoa tracks to help pointing, but need to sheet the
> genoa outboard for reaching. My tracks are about four feet aft of the
> shrouds, in line with them and are six feet long? I have adjustable cars
> (Garhauer) but use a snatch block on the rail when reaching. I set the rig
> tension on the medium to loose side, but race in mostly light air.
> Selection is a 155, 140, 110 ? all Dacron (had high tech but when they
> fail?they fail big and my budget didn?t fit getting new ones every four
> years).
>
> Gary
>
> #593
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven
> Tattrie via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 9:13 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Steven Tattrie 
> Subject: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing
>
> Hi,
>
> I have been PHRF racing at our local club, this is my first year with a
> C 30 MK1 (1979) is there a thread or anyone have comments on getting the
> best out of the boat, eg tight rigging, rake, sail selection, strength or
> weaknesses specific to the 30 to stay competitive? I have been sailing for
> a couple decades so not looking for general sailing tips. I want to know
> what is best for the 30MK1 or hear from your experience what work best.
>
> I am pointing well, though wounder if I should pinch more or be more off
> the wind for speed? I seemed to be passed on reaching and running.
>
> FYI - we have about half a dozen 30 MK1 racing a couple redwings, a 32 and
> 35 MK1 racing. All C
>
> Stevetensions on
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing - now scoring systems

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

On the Hudson River, we use ToT at the club level and ToD for interclub
regattas.

The rationale for ToT at the club level is roughly:

1. The RC doesn't need to know the exact length of the course. While we
race around fixed marks, the RC boat will move to give us the best
approximate W/L course. This eliminates need to know the exact length of
the course.
2. While we have 20+ boats split over 2 fleets (spin/non spin) the PHRF
range is 57 - 261. ToT is said to give the slower boats a better chance.

Not sure why we still use ToD at the interclub level.

We use the default A/B values.

Advantages for PHRF vs other systems is that it is cheap and easy to
administer. While overall numbers for PHRF racing may be down, there is yet
to really be another handicapping system that has taken hold and can work
easily with local admin. A couple years ago there was a big push for IRC by
making it cheaper and easier to apply for an un-endorsed cert, but IRC
seems all but dead. I got an email from US Sailing the other day pushing
ORC pushing ORC club. But it is fighting the installed base of local YRAs
in the US that issue thousands of PHRF certificates each year.

A PHRF application is really pretty easy to fill out for even a novice
sailor vs the measurement requirements for other systems. Also the money
and administration for an ORC certificate is going to US Sailing vs. your
local YRA who more directly support racing in your area. Full disclosure I
am a member of our local YRA board.

Eric
C 34/36


On Fri, Jul 15, 2016 at 9:23 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes. We switched to PHRF TOT from our former ASPN (also TOT) system in
> 2009.  Atlantic Speed Potential Number was in fact our Time Correction
> factor in percent.  It was simpler for the racers than PHRF but made a lot
> more work rating existing boats that came from other areas and already had
> an established PHRF number.
>
>
>
> As some have said PHRF is not always fair.  But short of measuring every
> single boat (ex ORR) and having different numbers for each wind and sea
> state there is not really anything that is any better.  One Design is
> fairer except I doubt everyone want the same thing from a boat so we all
> but something different.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ken
> Heaton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, July 15, 2016 9:03 AM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Ken Heaton
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing - now scoring systems
>
>
>
> We use Time on Time PHRF here in Nova Scotia.  We have our handicaps set
> by Sail Nova Scotia and use A=695 and B=525
>
>
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
>
>
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>
>
>
>
>
> On 14 July 2016 at 16:29, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> All –
>
> For your local races, how many use PHRF vs ORC or other?  TOT vs TOD?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List was fans - Now what was your hottest trip ever

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

July 2009 Norwalk CT aboard old boat (Catalina 30).

Second night of cruise arrived Friday at town dock (a mile or so up the
river from shore). Hazy, hot and humid. Went to Aquarium and dinner. Back
to boat for night with plans to leave the next morning for Milford.

Late Friday night, boat is hit by lightning while sleeping. Everyone safe.
Boat not leaking. Went back to bet. Called insurance company Saturday AM
and they wanted us to get the boat hauled before going anywhere. Could not
get the boat hauled until Monday. In addition to frying all the
electronics, the reefer was a victim. Couldn't get block ice, so at least 3
bags a day went to keep food from spoiling.

Hazy, hot and hellish the rest of the weekend with virtually no sea breeze
in the middle of Norwalk. Only relieve was from the occasional passing
t-storm. Boat hauled Monday, no damage to hull. Crew voted to go home.

Eric
34/36

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 11:18 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fans got me thinking – what was your hottest trip ever?
>
> I think our record was many years ago when my wife and I were out for 10
> days. Each day the heat index was well over 100 and every night found it
> still in the mid-80s or worse at midnight with 100% humidity. We slept in
> separate bunks to be a little cooler and it felt like breathing through a
> wet rag it was so humid at night. Fearing a mutiny, I left Oxford at sunset
> and we ran all night to Georgetown on the Sassafras. The water there is
> fresh, so you can swim nettle free and we got a room at the Kitty Night
> House for the next night. The day after that a cold front came through and
> we sailed all the way back to Annapolis on a reach with 15 knots and low
> humidity J
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Odd wave in Chesapeake

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

+1 on wake. We get these occasionally on the Hudson River when there is no
obvious wake maker around.


On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 1:23 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have encountered some odd waves on the Chesapeake and attributed them to
> a boat/ship/tug/barge which has passed by some time earlier. In the shallow
> bay waters, these type of 5 to 8 foot wake waves could easily travel across
> a few miles of water and then bounce off the shore and come right back. Not
> unusual at all.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> St. Michaels MD
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 20, 2016 1:01 PM
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Odd wave in Chesapeake
>
>
>
> I have encountered “rogue waves” offshore, but in this case I am going
> with the ship/barge wake as the likely cause.
>
> We have not had any earthquakes here this year, so I doubt that was the
> cause.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Jack Brennan via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 20, 2016 12:17
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jack Brennan
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Odd wave in Chesapeake
>
>
>
> Wakes from ships can travel a long distance in the right conditions.
>
>
>
> Off the South Florida coast, careless fishermen in small powerboats
> sometimes get sunk without warning because they anchor off the stern (where
> all of the motor weight is) near the first reef. Then a big wake arrives
> without warning from a cruise ship or freighter passing farther offshore.
>
>
>
> The stern can’t lift up because of the anchor and motor weight, so the
> wake breaks over the boat and swamps it. The wake doesn’t have to be huge.
> Five feet or so can do it with a small powerboat.
>
>
>
> When I worked at the daily newspaper in Fort Lauderdale, we did a couple
> of these stories a year on this happening.
>
>
>
> Jack Brennan
>
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Monday, June 20, 2016 12:05 PM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Odd wave in Chesapeake
>
>
>
> Is there any tech plate activity in the area?
>
> Not familiar with the area, so grasping at straws.
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Brian Fry via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Fry 
> *Sent:* Friday, June 17, 2016 2:59 PM
> *Subject:* Stus-List Odd wave in Chesapeake
>
>
>
> Leaving Solomon's last week in the morning, headed north, experienced an
> odd wave. We were offshore from Cove Point, light winds from SE, motoring
> in near calm water.
> All of a sudden, 2 waves about 4 ft or 5 ft high just a few feet apart
> came down the bay, from the north. We drive right into them, the second one
> just about coming over the bow.
> Had anyone experienced this?
> No traffic was in sight.
> I am thinking a wave created by the tide shift from high to low, at a
> narrow part of the bay.
> Freaky.
> I spoke with a sailor from Solomon's and he had never seen it.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
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> --
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>
> Virus-free
> 
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Re: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

The Max-Prop may be worn and need to be rebuilt. Check for looseness in the
blades when it is hauled.

I had something similar happen when motor sailing when my prop was worn.
When the wind would puff and accelerate the boat taking the load off the
prop, it would shudder.

Eric
C 34/36

On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Check your motor mounts.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 16, 2016, at 10:36 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2016 09:25:00 -0700
> > From: Andrew Means 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Hey all -
> >
> > My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed
> > vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been
> > performing brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the
> > less-windy sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large
> > ocean swells on our way up to Tofino.
> >
> > Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the
> > boat crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn?t
> change
> > RPM at all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again,
> > also over a swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and
> let
> > it idle - when we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened
> > maybe 6 times over the course of the passage, always starting as we were
> at
> > the top of a swell.
> >
> > We?d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day
> before
> > with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little wind
> > there was was behind us.
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop
> is
> > feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix
> > that - or if there?s any way to do so without hauling the boat out
> (hoping
> > to avoid that mid-trip?)
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > --
> > Andrew Means
> > S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> > Seattle, WA
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You can ask for a quote from the various manufacturers. Based on your
engine and transmission most of them will recommend a prop.

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:24 PM, Robin Drew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks.
>
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have some C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several
> of the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY
> size listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how
> to load it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I
> just can't remember.
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You can have KiwiGrip tinted at a paint store. It is a latex paint.

However they won't guarantee a colour match.

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said
> you were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you
> use then? It looks pretty white to me.
>
> I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way
> to go to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other
> nonskid (which I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time).
>
> There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a
> little weird.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM,  wrote:
>
>> From: Dreuge 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>> Nice work Ryan.
>>
>> You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and
>> over time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.
>>
>>
>> I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and
>> Kiwigrip(non-skid).  Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy
>> brush “ but in my case found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked
>> out better.  Below is a link to my experiences painting the deck.
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C 38 Landfall
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Selling The Office

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

JP,

The boat formerly know as "The Office" will reside at the Nyack Boat Club
where it will join another 35 MkIII, a 40 MkII, a 34/36+ (my boat),  2 30's
(MkI and II) and a few 29s.

If you find yourself venturing south, consider spending a day or night at
Nyack. We have a few guest moorings with weekend launch service and a 5
minute walk to some great restaurants, etc.

Best,

Eric Baumes
s/v Hee Soo
34/36+


On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 4:44 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  wrote:

> Will do. Nyack is just south of Croton Point. We're just north. I'm sure
> we'll see her. Thx
> JP
> 914 494 3618
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 7, 2016, at 9:15 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It will be in Nyack. Keep an eye out for her!
>
> On Saturday, May 7, 2016, JP Mail via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> The Hudson sounds good. We'll be moving Hideaway from RI to the Hudson
>> soon. I wonder if the Office will be near us.
>> JP
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On May 6, 2016, at 11:49 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Tomorrow I am selling The Office. (I'm doing the A2B on the Hylas).
>> >
>> > We all know the saying about the 2 happiest days in a boat owner's
>> life.  For me, its not true.
>> >
>> > First, I want to thank everyone who has provided advise, support and
>> friendship.  You are an amazing group of giving, non-judgmental and
>> knowledgeable sailors, marine electricians, mechanics and boat owners!
>> Thank you!  Second, like Danny, Tim and others, I plan to stick around.
>> >
>> > I went from being a guy who sails to a sailor while owning The Office.
>> Annapolis to Bermuda, Annapolis Newport, hundreds of day sails etc.  I
>> learned a tremendous amount about boat systems - with your help.  I've made
>> friends here and raced with some of you.
>> >
>> > The new owner will be moving the boat to the Hudson.  I'm confident he
>> will take good care of her, and I may even get to race on her occasionally.
>> Still, its tough to let her go.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Joel
>> > 35/3
>> > The Office
>> > Annapolis
>> > 301 541 8551
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>> ___
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>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List Bulkhead mounted drop down table

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You should make the suggestion to follow the lead of YRALIS!



On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 6:01 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Eric,
>   Interesting.  Lake Michigan phrf regs do not contain such an exception
> and state that base handicap "assumes standard hull AND interior".  The
> regs also reference any interior appointments that are modified or
> customized must be fully described in application.  The regs are under
> revision so maybe this will change for lmphrf.  If so, my table is GONE!
> BILL WALKER
> CNC 36
> PENTWATER, MI
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> --------------
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 Eric Baumes via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> I have a c 34+ and I removed the table for the same reasons as you.
>
> I have had a "temporary" table for the past couple years that we use when
> cruising. I built it on one of these
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|7504|2290226|2290231=1536893.
> The base is through bolted through the floor and the tube and table are
> removeable.
>
> The table top is currently plywood but I have plans to make a more
> permanant one out of teak or teak veneer. When I get around to this I will
> use two pedestal stands as the table is a little wobbly with only one.
>
> I don't have a pic but I will take one next time I am at board.
>
> In terms of the Rating the YRALIS PHRF Regulations state:
>
> Proper Racing Trim
>
> Yachts shall race as rated with at least all the equipment and furnishings
> supplied as standard by the manufacturer. A yacht that has altered or has
> removed bulkheads, permanently attached furniture, or structural interior
> components shall be considered a custom yacht. Drawers, headliners, cabinet
> and locker doors, steps, ladders, and engine enclosures shall remain in
> place as supplied as standard equipment. If they do not so remain, then the
> yacht shall be considered a custom yacht and rated accordingly. *Passageway
> doors, cushions, dining tables, and carpets are specifically exempted, and
> are alterable or removable provided all safety standards are met.*
> Lifting keels (not designed to be adjusted while racing) must be fixed and
> locked in the lowered position while racing.
>
> You may want to check your local regs.
>
> Eric
>
> S/V Hee Soo
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 1, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My 36 XL/kcb was delivered with a relatively massive table bolted to
>> the the cabin sole which had 2 fold down leaves.
>>
>> This table sort of wrapped around the bast so that when the leaves
>> opened, the table surface was centered fore and aft
>> and athwartships so that 4+ people could sit around it although getting
>> our from the curved port settee was difficult.
>>
>> To have any room for racing crew, I removed it years ago since I don't
>> really cruise with the boat.
>>
>> I would like to build or buy a lightweight table that could be mast
>> mounted (preferred) or bulkhead mounted (probably too short in this case)
>> and fold up
>> out of the way when not used. It would be nice to also have folding
>> leaves.
>>
>> It might also be made to be pulled up to the underside of the coach roof
>> while being constrained by the mast when not in use and
>> locked to the cabin cole when in use.
>>
>> I would like it to be relatively light weight in either case.
>>
>> Any photos or ideas from the list on a similar table or a design for one?
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> C 36 XL/kcb
>>
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Bulkhead mounted drop down table

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I have a c 34+ and I removed the table for the same reasons as you.

I have had a "temporary" table for the past couple years that we use when
cruising. I built it on one of these
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|7504|2290226|2290231=1536893.
The base is through bolted through the floor and the tube and table are
removeable.

The table top is currently plywood but I have plans to make a more
permanant one out of teak or teak veneer. When I get around to this I will
use two pedestal stands as the table is a little wobbly with only one.

I don't have a pic but I will take one next time I am at board.

In terms of the Rating the YRALIS PHRF Regulations state:

Proper Racing Trim

Yachts shall race as rated with at least all the equipment and furnishings
supplied as standard by the manufacturer. A yacht that has altered or has
removed bulkheads, permanently attached furniture, or structural interior
components shall be considered a custom yacht. Drawers, headliners, cabinet
and locker doors, steps, ladders, and engine enclosures shall remain in
place as supplied as standard equipment. If they do not so remain, then the
yacht shall be considered a custom yacht and rated accordingly. *Passageway
doors, cushions, dining tables, and carpets are specifically exempted, and
are alterable or removable provided all safety standards are met.* Lifting
keels (not designed to be adjusted while racing) must be fixed and locked
in the lowered position while racing.

You may want to check your local regs.

Eric

S/V Hee Soo


On Fri, Jan 1, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 36 XL/kcb was delivered with a relatively massive table bolted to
> the the cabin sole which had 2 fold down leaves.
>
> This table sort of wrapped around the bast so that when the leaves opened,
> the table surface was centered fore and aft
> and athwartships so that 4+ people could sit around it although getting
> our from the curved port settee was difficult.
>
> To have any room for racing crew, I removed it years ago since I don't
> really cruise with the boat.
>
> I would like to build or buy a lightweight table that could be mast
> mounted (preferred) or bulkhead mounted (probably too short in this case)
> and fold up
> out of the way when not used. It would be nice to also have folding
> leaves.
>
> It might also be made to be pulled up to the underside of the coach roof
> while being constrained by the mast when not in use and
> locked to the cabin cole when in use.
>
> I would like it to be relatively light weight in either case.
>
> Any photos or ideas from the list on a similar table or a design for one?
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I have a http://www.madmanmarine.com/ wifi unit that takes output from my
NMEA concentrator then make is available via serial/usb, tcp/ip or UDB.

I have a chartplotter and GPS in the system and can get the info on
iRegatta or PolarNav on Mac.

Also tested with some free/cheap windows programs.

I have an iPad 1.0 that still runs some chartplotting software and has
built in GPS. It is on my boat right now and I can find it via iCloud.
Useful as we are having some dicy weather in the North East this weekend.
At least I can tell if the boat is still on its mooring.





On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 6:04 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It works well below deck when you are in cell range.  How does it work
> below deck with just a GPS signal offshore?  I don't want to belabor the
> point.  Jerry
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 2, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Jerome
> I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in GPS
> works perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Joe - that is a common misunderstanding.  While the Iphone does not need
> cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower triangulation
> for position and is not very accurate or fast without it.   Moreover, if
> you are below deck you will not get an adequate GPS signal.  This is from
> the internet.
> MotionX-GPS Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?
> The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset which
> uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal acquisition. Cellular
> coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, however the signal acquisition
> will be much quicker if you have data coverage.
> Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire a
> signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine which
> satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. With data
> services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can take up to 5
> minutes.
>
> How the iPhone knows where you are
> By Glenn Fleishman ,
> Macworld
> iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that Apple's 
> Wednesday
> response about location tracking on iOS
> 
> might almost seem baffling:
>
> Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data can take up
> to several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to just a few seconds by
> using Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data to quickly find GPS satellites.
>
> Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out where I
> am?
> Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a lengthy
> process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first appeared. In
> simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely accurate about how this all
> works and what it's doing. So let me explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone
> towers fit into the equation.
> 12.5 minutes to locate
> Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a lock;
> later locks in the same region could still take minutes. If you turned a
> GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more than a few hundred miles,
> a cold start might be required again.
> GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates for
> where you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast precise
> time signals using a built-in atomic clock along with their current
> location. They also broadcast the location of all other satellites in the
> sky, called the almanac.
> Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its current
> location and some less precise location information for other GPS
> satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 minutes) to obtain
> the full list of satellite locations. This information has to be decoded
> for a receiver to then properly interpret signals from the satellites that
> are within range.
> If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which each
> sent their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS receiver—can
> calculate to within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, and elevation of
> your current location along with the exact current time. With three
> satellites, you lose elevation, but a device can still track movement
> fairly accurately. Standalone GPS receivers can lock in simultaneously on
> multiple satellites, and track more than four. Other techniques can improve
> accuracy, too.
> But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that
> location faster!
> Giving GPS an assist
> So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten the
> wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live downloads of
> position data from 

Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

That was me.

The Boat's Name is "Hee Soo" - named after my daughter.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to attend the rendevous. We have a pretty
active racing schedule in September.

Eric
34/36

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 9:06 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi David,
> FWIW, *Hooligans Navy* was a 34+ for sale a few years back?
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"David Knecht via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"CnC CnC discussion list" 
> *Cc: *"David Knecht" 
> *Sent: *Wednesday, September 2, 2015 2:53:03 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous
>
>
> Hi Edd- I was at Block Island last week Monday and motored past a white
> C+ at a mooring.  The rear steps were down so I could only see the
> first few letters of the name Ho……  I went past a few times and never saw
> anyone to say hello.  Any idea whose boat it is?  I was going to invite
> them to the event, but did not know how to find the owner.  Dave
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> Core Microscopy Facility Director
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

The 34/36 has a centerline shaft. I have no significant pull under power
and have a 3-blade Max-Prop.

I have had the 3-blade, and 2 2-blades (long story) and never had
significant pull when cruising. Steering under sail or power should involve
little more than 2 fingers on the wheel making adjustments.

I have an recent Raymarine AP and it does not struggle I have used it for
up to 5 hours motoring ad 3 sailing.

Eric
s/v Hee Soo
CC 34/36

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 4:30 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 You should be able to check it just by looking at how the shaft exits
 behind the engine -



 Regards,



 Bill Coleman

 CC 39



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
 Knecht via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Wednesday, August 26, 2015 2:19 PM

 *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
 *Cc:* David Knecht
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering



 Hi Bill- I am not sure about the offset.  I did not realize that it was a
 possibility.  I will have to check this winter when on the hard.  I have a
 vague recollection of it not being straight relative to the axis of the
 boat and that might be why.  If so, I guess that would explain the pull.
 Dave



 Aries

 1990 CC 34+

 New London, CT




 On Aug 26, 2015, at 2:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



 Is your prop shaft offset so it can be removed past the rudder?



 Bill Coleman

 CC 39

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David Knecht via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Wednesday, August 26, 2015 1:44 PM
 *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
 *Cc:* David Knecht
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering



 Calling Raymarine was my first action and I am waiting for a call back.
 But what I really want to know from the group is whether the relatively
 strong pull to port while motoring is normal or whether neutral helm is
 normal.  Dave



 Aries

 1990 CC 34+

 New London, CT


 image001.png



 On Aug 26, 2015, at 1:03 PM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:



 yep...call Raymarine

 David F. Risch
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)


 --

 Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 12:52:24 -0400
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC: davidakne...@gmail.com

 No- It is smooth by hand.  No stiffness I have noticed.



 Aries

 1990 CC 34+

 New London, CT


 pastedGraphic.tiff



 On Aug 26, 2015, at 12:50 PM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:



 Does the steering hang up at all when the autopilot is disengaged?

 David F. Risch
 1981 40-2
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)


 --

 Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 12:04:11 -0400
 To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Autopilot steering
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC: davidakne...@gmail.com

 I was on a long cruise last weekend and we ended up motoring for many
 hours.   installed a new Raymarine EV1/ST4000+ wheel pilot last winter and
 this was the first extended use.  I found that it was frequently cutting
 out while motoring (not sailing).  The unit would simply freeze up and stop
 steering while the boat drifted slowly off course.  No error on the P70
 controller screen until I got an off course warning.  I also noticed the
 wheel pilot getting warm/hot when this was happening which may be why it
 cut out.

 I also notice that while motoring, there is significant pull on the wheel
 that has to be fought to keep the boat going straight.  Is that normal?  I
 am guessing that the wheel pilot is overheating due to the power needed to
 continuously fight that pull?  Thanks- Dave



 Aries

 1990 CC 34+

 New London, CT


 pastedGraphic.tiff




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Re: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I had my alumin tank re-valved and retested. Cheaper than a new aluminum. I
would probably do fiberglass the next time around.

Eric
34/36

On Thu, Aug 20, 2015 at 5:48 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 These aluminum tanks are worth recertifying. Had mine done in Bridgewater
 near Halifax for $50, a lot cheaper than buying a new tank. Costco in
 Halifax will not refill these aluminum tanks at all because the pumps are
 programmed and cannot be over ridden manually. I take mine to a place that
 still has a manual scale.

 Mike Amirault
 CC33 MKii Lovely Cruise, SMSC


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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

My light air sheets are tapered.

On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 1:01 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I use two part spin sheets.  1/4 inch Dyneema stuffed into StaSet.  Strong
 and light where need be and easy on the hands on the trimmer end.

 Not sure anybody is still making them.  Many now use tapered sheets.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 11:23 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 On my 34+ I fly an asym on a sprit. I use 3/8 for spin sheets. I have 1/4
 for light air.

 I would go minimum 3/8 and consider 7/16 for the 37+

 2x boat length is correct for the asym. I used to fly a symmetrical and
 just repurposed those sheets. One of the guys is now the tackline which I
 ran aft to the cockpit.

 Before I got the sprit when flying a cruising chute I used the downhaul
 line but put a snatch block on the anchor roller to get the tack out ahead
 of the forstay.

 Eric

 On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Ron,

 For the symmetrical the 80' sheets you have should be long enough, but
 they may be hard on the hands in a breeze.

 I use the spin pole downhaul as a tack line. I added a shackle to the
 bow stem and move the snap shackle on the downhaul to the bow stem shackle.

 I know APS and others recommend longer sheets, but I don't see the
 need.  For the symmetrical they need to go from the headstay to the turning
 block, around the winch and up to the trimmer.  50 may be short, but you
 would only be using 9/16 if downwind in a blow, not on a reach.  The asym
 needs to be the length of the foot of the chute, plus from the headstay to
 the turning block around the winch and to the trimmer, or roughly 2x boat
 length.​

 Hope this helps.

 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis

 On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:04 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for
 their spinnakers.   The FO left me a collection of lines and four
 spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical  cruising).



 It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and
 will need both sheets and a tack line.  Depending upon where I look, it
 seems that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’.  All I have is
 a 70’ ½” line.  Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker?



 For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to
 be OK.   The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”.   Except
 for the ¼” line, they all seem short.  Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’
 long.



 Thanks,

 *Ron*

 Ron Ricci

 S/V Patriot

 CC 37+

 Bristol, RI

 ron.ri...@1968.usna.com





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 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

On my 34+ I fly an asym on a sprit. I use 3/8 for spin sheets. I have 1/4
for light air.

I would go minimum 3/8 and consider 7/16 for the 37+

2x boat length is correct for the asym. I used to fly a symmetrical and
just repurposed those sheets. One of the guys is now the tackline which I
ran aft to the cockpit.

Before I got the sprit when flying a cruising chute I used the downhaul
line but put a snatch block on the anchor roller to get the tack out ahead
of the forstay.

Eric

On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Ron,

 For the symmetrical the 80' sheets you have should be long enough, but
 they may be hard on the hands in a breeze.

 I use the spin pole downhaul as a tack line. I added a shackle to the bow
 stem and move the snap shackle on the downhaul to the bow stem shackle.

 I know APS and others recommend longer sheets, but I don't see the need.
 For the symmetrical they need to go from the headstay to the turning block,
 around the winch and up to the trimmer.  50 may be short, but you would
 only be using 9/16 if downwind in a blow, not on a reach.  The asym needs
 to be the length of the foot of the chute, plus from the headstay to the
 turning block around the winch and to the trimmer, or roughly 2x boat
 length.​

 Hope this helps.

 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis

 On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:04 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for
 their spinnakers.   The FO left me a collection of lines and four
 spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical  cruising).



 It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will
 need both sheets and a tack line.  Depending upon where I look, it seems
 that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’.  All I have is a 70’
 ½” line.  Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker?



 For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to be
 OK.   The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”.   Except
 for the ¼” line, they all seem short.  Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’
 long.



 Thanks,

 *Ron*

 Ron Ricci

 S/V Patriot

 CC 37+

 Bristol, RI

 ron.ri...@1968.usna.com





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 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Easy reefing without a mainsail slide track?

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

As mentioned above, It is a combination of apparent wind and comfort level.

If you are a cruiser then I would consider heaving to then reefing the
main. The boat will be relatively flat and comfortable when you work on
setting the reef. I used to do this when single/short handed and it was
much easier.

Eric

CC 34/36

On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 5:19 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Patrick,

 I have a similar system on my 35/3, but rather than having a slide stop I
 have a metal plate (a gate) that (sort of) allows the slides to stay in the
 slot while dropping to the boom.  That allows me to use the horn.  A rigger
 can make a plate that screws on and eliminates the stop.

 As far as when to reef, it depends on wind angle, wind speed, seas and who
 is onboard.  Upwind cruising, when apparent wind is over 18 knots I usually
 reef with my 135 up.  If heeling over 20 degrees it makes sense to reef.

 My halyard is pre-marked for the proper spot.  I ease the sheet,  drop the
 halyard to the proper spot, head up if necessary to get the sail to drop,
 put the ring on the horn, return to the cockpit and yank on the reefing
 line.  Then trim main.

 Hope that helps.
 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis

 On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I have some questions on reefing. I know the basics, but want to get more
 advanced so that it's easy even in challenging conditions. Especially
 learning any handling characteristics that are specific to CC's.

 Difficulty reefing was the one of the few sail handling issues we had on
 our cruise of Vancouver Island last month.

 Typical Puget Sound summer winds are under 20 kts, so our practice
 reefing has always been relatively easy.
 But in 25 kts (gusting to 30?) with 6-10 foot sharp waves from current
 and wind driven water stacking up in the Strait of Juan de Fuca approaching
 Race Rocks it was a whole different experience and somewhat scary.
 (and yes I know, reef early, reef often, but I don't need that lecture ;)
 Besides, it doesn't change the fact you have to know how to reef in 25 to
 40 knots, because if you're ever in those winds you'll need to put the 2nd
 or 3rd reef in).

 Anyone here have a procedure for easy reefing (or easier than what I'm
 doing at least), that doesn’t involve ponying up $3000 to $5000 to install
 a new mainsail track?  (guessing it might cost that much or more if the
 main sail needed to be replaced or restitched with new slides)

 Or is that basically an impossible wish? (ie, reefing in difficult
 conditions will always be difficult)

 A few questions:

 - Do you use boat speed over water as a criteria for when to reef? If so
 what's the speed for an LF38 at which you consider it overcanvased?
 (keeping in mind that we're cruisers, not racers, so our priority is
 keeping boat speed up without being uncomfortable or expending too much
 energy)

 - The mainsail 1st reef tack cringle doesn't reach down to the reefing
 horn on the boom, because the sail slides are stacked up on the track
 stopper (which cannot go any lower, and prevents the slides from falling
 out of the track). So I've taken to tying a line through it and tensioning
 that around a deck cleat. Should I actually be removing the track stopper,
 moving 3 or 4 sail slides below the stopper (loose) and reinserting the
 stopper?  That would be a major PITA, but I think the existing situation is
 causing the reef tack to be a bit too high, which likewise causes the reef
 clew point on the leech to be a bit high.

 - Is it essential to release the vang before reefing? What's the reason
 that's often recommended? Is it to make the foot of the sail slack and
 billowy rather than flat, in order to make the clew reef point easier to
 pull in?


 Some info on the current setup:
 - single line reefing with the line run back to the cockpit. Not run
 through the luff (tack) cringle (I may change this though), so I have to go
 forward to tie down the reef's tack.
   - It's what's shown in Single line and cowhorn on this page:
 http://www.offshore-sailor.com/index.php/seamanship-and-boat-handling/5-reefing-systems.html
   - I could switch to full on jiffy reefing (run the line through the
 tack cringle) but am worried there's already too much friction in the
 system.
 - mainsail track is built-in to the mast, standard “T shaped” track with
 plastic sail slides and 2 cars on the top two full battens.
 - I lubed the sail slides with Mclube Sailkote a few months ago. That
 helped, but there’s no way the sail will drop with 25 kts of wind pressure
 on it when sailing off the wind (below a beam reach). I’m not sure even the
 best mainsail tracks truly allow you to drop sail on a broad reach in 25
 kts anyway.


 We managed to do the reef by going to a close reach or close haul with
 the genoa at ~100% and luffing the main. But this makes a tremendous racket
 as the wind slammed the boom around in the minute or two it took to 

Re: Stus-List Running Back Stays

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

The check stays are also used in light air to put shape back in the sail.
The offshore rigs are super bendy. If you want to reduce headstay sag and
still have shape in the main you need to use these in light wind.

Eric
34/36

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 6:25 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I think these may be check stays rather than running backs.  Running back
 stays mostly on fractional rigs and are for downwind sailing as well as
 trim upwind.

 Persistence has check stays. We were concerned as you are when we were
 looking at boat.  Other posters are correct. These are for lumpy seas over
 15 knots to stop mast from pumping. When light we disconnect and attach to
 turnbuckles at shrouds.  I have a snap shackle to reconnect to blocks on
 transom when wind comes up.  We also changed the lines in the blocks to
 smaller diameter 60 Ft a side so that when using checks we let the line out
 downwind rather than disconnecting.  These are not the pita we thought they
 would be but do add one extra thing to do when in use.

 If all boats were swept back spreaders like cc99 and 115 we would not have
 this discussion.

 Mike
 Persistence
 1987 Frees 33
 
 From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of scott gary
 via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
 Sent: July 28, 2015 12:21 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: scott gary
 Subject: Stus-List Running Back Stays

 Hi All,

 Looking at a 37/40XL and I know they have running back stays, anyone who
 has them, are they a pain in the neck, or do you not use them all the
 time.  I am not planning on doing much racing, mostly cruising.  I've heard
 of people on other types of boats just removing them all together.

 Thanks,
 Scott
 CC 35/3

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Re: Stus-List NYC help

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

+1

On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 9:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Joel,

 Liberty Landing is a nice stop. Good docks. Amenities. The park is nice
 and there’s a great science museum nearby.

 Throw a wave to the Enterprise on your starboard as you pass City Island.

 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/











 On Jun 11, 2015, at 9:08 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 left Newport yesterday am.  Headed thru Hells Gate this afternoon.  any
 marina recommendations on the other side?

 Joel


 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 37 and 34 +/XL/R cabin-side plates

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I have some weird gummy vinyl badges on my 34/36, but they are a mess and
would love to replace them.

On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:23 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Listers,

 I think this was covered a couple of years ago, but can't find it.

 I'm looking to replace the broken plates that are on the sides of the
 cabin. They are long, rectangular, with curved corners and they had a
 raised CC 37+ on it.

 I seem to remember someone getting a steel version somewhere.

 If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.


 All the best,

 Edd

 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 NCC-1701-B
 CC 37+ | City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com
 ---
 914.332.4400  | Office
 914.774.9767  | Mobile
 ---
 Sent via iPhone 6
 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Stus-List KVH Quadro

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Fellow KVH hangers on,

A bunch of display items were put on ebay today.

Worst ads ever, but they are there.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=kvh_sop=10_sacat=0_nkw=kvh+quadro_from=R40_trksid=m194_osacat=0

Eric B.
34/36

Still running KVH quadro.
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Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

For racing on Long Island and the Hudson River the spin and non-spin
ratings are not intended to be used to combine fleets.

These ratings reflect differences in a boats ability when racing in either
a spin or non-spin fleet. For example if you use a spinnaker pole as a
whisker pole in non-spinnaker you can get a credit. Also a boat designed
with a standard blade jib is seen to be at a disadvantage when racing with
out a spinnaker as they have less sail area in the jib to project to
windward and may get a different non-spinnaker base rating.

Eric
34/36


On Fri, Mar 20, 2015 at 9:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Rick,

 This has been discussed recently for shorthanded sailing  on the
 Chesapeake.  Bottom line is there is no way to race spin and non-spin
 together fairly.  You can come up with a differential, bu it nothing more
 than a SWAG

 Joel

 On Friday, March 20, 2015, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 OK. I know this has been discussed before. But I just spent almost two
 hours in the mail archives rereading a whole bunch of previous messages,
 trying to come up with a consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to
 allow spin and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet.



 What I firmly believe I have discovered is that, sort of like economists
 and politicians, if you laid all the opinions end to end they would never
 reach a conclusion.



 I know that a number of PHRF organizations give a boat both a Spin and a
 non-spin rating. And I understand that local some local organizations with
 small fleets running in a single event will adjust the ratings of boats in
 non-spin to promote more even competition. From what I can see, the credit
 for running non-spin seems to be in the range of 10-18 seconds, or 10-15%
 of the boat’s PHRF.



 What I’m trying to do is plan for a “CC Cup” to be run as part of a
 local charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo, in Belhaven, NC on the
 weekend of May 15-17. More on that later.



 The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and
 finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs. I know of
 about 15 CCs within a day’s travel of Belhaven, so I’m guessing the fleet
 would include 8-10 boats, with some cruisers and 1 or 2 real racers. To
 promote camaraderie and competition, and also so I don’t have to pony up
 too much for the prizes (the winner will get a half hull of his own boat
 made by Andrew Burton), we would have a single fleet.



 So help me here:



 How does your local PHRF or sailing club adjust the ratings between Spin
 and JAM to allow both types of boats in a single fleet? And how equitable
 are the results based on your experience?





 Rick Brass

 *Imzadi  *CC 38 mk 2

 *la Belle Aurore *CC 25 mk1

 Washington, NC





 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Whisker Pole

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

This was my bible when I raced Jib and Main.

http://www.capecoralsailingclub.org/wing-it.pdf. Check your local PHRF
rules for use of whisker pole, e.g. in my area it is not illegal to fly on
same side as main.

Note the advice on reaching with a whisker pole. In light air you will
still need to sail higher and with the right length pole you can wing it to
90 degrees. If you sail courses with reaches this is a killer.

I had the Forespar 12-22 for my Catalina 30 no complaints but expensive. It
was a bit oversized for the boat but I never regretted it.

I now have a selden bowsprit and it has been good to me.

Eric
34/36

On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 6:45 PM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  With a slightly longer pole and a means of keeping some tension on the
 jib leach you can reach at fairly deep angles downwind with a pole.  It is
 sometimes the fastest option in lighter air.  Won a 12 miler doing just
 that last year.

 Cheers

 david
 Wanderer CC 32

  *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Monday, March 16, 2015 12:46 PM
 *To:* Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Whisker Pole

  With chutes the general rule is to reach up in the lighter winds and
 sail more DDW in the stronger winds.
 It would seem that would also work for JAM racing.
 Does anyone have a polar diagram for their boat to compare boat speed in
 the 5-7 range to see the speed difference between DDW and reaching with
 apparent wind at the beam?  From the angle and boat speed for both
 positions, we could calculate how much extra distance sailed vs speed.
 Ron
 Wild Cheri
 CC 30-1
 STL


   --


I stronger winds I've had some success jibing and broad reaching vs
the whisker pole guys running straight down. But yesterday (3-7 knots true)
I could not make it work.  I'm told a shallower reach  / more frequent
jibes could have made a difference.. But that seems counter intuitive from
a VMG standpoint..


  --

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Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Nyack Boat Club is on the Hudson River and the anchorage is unprotected. In
a north east blow this is seven miles of fetch. From the east there is
about 2 miles.

In the fall during a Nor'easter we would usually lose a boat or two. We
seemed to accept this as normal.

However after hurricane Sandy and losing 25% of the boats in our mooring
field, our boat club did extensive research and consultation with other
marinas and clubs as well as hardware manufacturers.

The results of the study yielded these recommendations.
http://www.nyackboatclub.org/content/nbc-mooring-tackle-minimum-recommendations-07242013-1041
.

Since Sandy, we have only had one boat break free.

The chocks on my cc 34/36 are too small for one inch line, so I opted for
a slightly different setup. The primary pendant is 3/4 Polydyne. The lazy
pendant is 1 polydyne with a 1/2 spectra pendant from the pendant through
the chock to the cleat. The lazy pendant combo is about 2 longer than the
primary pendant. All the pendants were pre-spliced with chafe guard on
them. The pendants are low stretch and the catenary of the heavy chain
absorbs the shock loading.

My boat has ridden out a few storms with 30kt sustained for more than 24
hours and gusts up to 50k with 3-4' + waves.

So if you can get fair leads from your existing chocks to a cleat(s), there
are options to use relatively small line.

Eric
34/36+






On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 6:42 PM, Eric Cahn via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 {{{You want to size mooring lines so there is some give, just like an
 anchor
  line. Bigger is not necessarily better.
 
  In a large storm, stagger maybe 5 lines of different length so that one
  takes over as another breaks. They will break in big storms.
 
  I never saw a mooring cleat pull out. Lines always went first. A main
  culprit was an unusually large wave that would pull the bow up and snap a
  perfectly good, protected line. Make the lines as long as they can be in
 a
  storm.
 
  I was on a helix mooring. The anchors always held, but a weak point was
  the line from the helix to the mooring. They need to be replaced every
 few
  years or after particularly bad storms like hurricanes.}}}

 What about using line snubbers for the main pennants and a safety backup
 set to the maximum stretch of the snubber.  This seems it would help the
 shock loads on the pennants AND on the mooring line.  Perhaps even run a
 couple of snubbers in series to really reduce shock.  Just an idea.  Could
 it work?

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Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

A lot of harbour masters on the East Coast would disagree with you. I am in
12-15' of water with 30' of 1 bottom chain and 15' of 5/8 top chain and
18' of pendants. It takes a lot to lift the bottom chain.

Mooring rigs are designed to operate with much shorter scope than an
anchor. With a rode of 150' the shock loading is distributed over much more
line. If all your elasticity is in 20' of stretchy line, it may over heat
and fail. We saw this during the hurricane, and thus advised against nylon
pendants in favor of low stretch pendants and increased the weight of the
chain, thus increasing the catenary.

Eric

On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 10:58 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I wouldn’t be so sure about the catenary providing much shock absorption.
 In about 30 knots of wind my mooring chain is pretty much stretched out
 taught. I have 30 feet of chain in 12 feet of water. Speaking of stretch,
 in Hurricane Charlie we had 150 feet of ½” nylon in 10 feet of water. It
 was like being on a giant rubber band J In the morning the anchor was dug
 in so deep we needed a CG patrol boat to help get it loose L From the
 looks of the line the anchor was at least **6 feet* under!*



 Joe Della Barba

 j...@dellabarba.com

 Coquina

 WWW.CRYC.ORG

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
 Brass via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Saturday, March 14, 2015 9:59 PM
 *To:* 'Paul Baker'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring



 Like some of the others, I suspected your plan to use at least ¾” pendants
 to be overkill for a 27 foot boat.



 Someone else pointed out that you want some stretch to cushion the shock
 and ¾” line will have no stretch to speak of at the loads your boat will
 generate. But the desirability of stretch is more appropriate for an anchor
 rode and not a mooring pendant. At a mooring, the cushioning is a result of
 the extra chain and catenary between the mooring ball and anchor; your
 pendant would probably only have a few inches of stretch over its
 relatively short length.



 To see if ¾” line is really overkill, I spent a few minutes doing research
 on the Boat US site, Fortress and Mantus anchors sites, and a site having
 engineering standards for different types of rope.



 There is an ABYC table on the Boat/US site showing the following for the
 estimated load on an anchor and rode based on boat size and wind speed. The
 data is:



 Wind Speed 30kt  42kt  60kt

   Working   storm
violent storm

 Boat size

 25’490lb
 980lb1440lb

 30’700lb
 1400lb  2800lb

 35’900lb1800lb
3600lb

 These numbers are pretty consistent with what I found on the sites for the
 anchor companies for anchor load numbers.



 The rope specs show the following for minimum break strength for medium
 lay 3-strand nylon:

 7/16” ½”  9/16” 5/8”   ¾”

 4320lb   5670lb   7200lb   8910lb   12780lb



 Recommendations vary on the working load to max break strength ratio. As
 low as 3:1, 4:1 seems common, but Mantus says 8:1.

 At 4:1 the working loads are: 7/16”= 1080
 ½”=1420  9/16”=18005/8”=2230   ¾”=3195

 At 8:1
 540  710
 900  1115 1600



 For boats anchoring in 30 knots of wind, Mantus and others recommend:

 20-30’  11000pounds9/16

 30-35’  15000 ½

 35-40’  2 5/8



 West marine suggests 1/8” of diameter for each 8’ of length for heavy
 boats with high windage. So for a 32’ boat that would be that would be ½”
 diameter. Add another 1/8” for storm conditions.

 Boat/US recommends the following in 30kts.: 25’ boat=3/8”, 30’=7/16”,
 35’=1/2”. But, hey, they’re mostly talking to power boaters.



 On one of the sites there was a note that deck cleats are generally
 installed in such a way as to resist a minimum 3400 pound load. I don’t
 know if that is some sort of standard or just an observation.



 You plan to run a single pendant, with a  somewhat longer backup in case
 the first breaks. For a 30’ boat, at 4:1 safety factor, at 42kt winds, it
 looks like you need ½” line. In a hurricane ¾”.



 Or you could use the system I did when I was on a mooring and use two ½”
 diameter pendants of equal length. Smaller diameter would let you install a
 pair of chocks instead of heavy cleats with a high load. And you can use
 your existing deck cleat. The pendants would be less expensive and easier
 to handle when picking up the mooring. Two pendants would easily handle the
 loads from a severe storm. And the equal length pendants on either side of
 the bow would act, to a certain extent, like a bridle to reduce the extent
 the boat sails from 

Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Pole for 33 MK II

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Try the local boat yards--especially if they service sailboats. The
sometimes have odd bits sitting around.

As for ebay, unless it is local, the shipping will be freight which is not
cheap.

Eric
CC 34/36

On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I acquired a 1985 CC 33 MKII mid last summer.  I need to replace the
 spinnaker pole.

 Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can find a used spinnaker pole
 or a good price on a new one?   I've checked ebay and found a few items but
 not much.

 Thanks
 Tom
 *Escape* (to be renamed) 1985 CC 33 II
 Bayfield WI.

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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Where I race, it is not a penalty to have a folder/featherer, the base
rating assumes that you have this.

A credit is granted from 3-12 seconds for a solid prop based on type of
prop and mounting.

Having raced with both a solid prop and a folder on the same boat, I can
tell you that the penalty is well worth it.

On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 1:37 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Wow! That is a serious penalty. It is three to six around here. Three if
 in an aperture and six if out in the open.

 Andthe Flex-o-fold is a geared prop so the blades open together and
 close together. I have not heard of any of them not opening, unless they
 have been sitting around so long that they are encrusted with
 junk/barnacles so bad that they wouldn't work even if they were fixed. I
 deliver boats for our museum's donation program and have run into a couple
 which were so dirty that the prop was just a blob of crud - no thrust.
 Didn't make a difference if it was folding (they weren't) or not.

 Gary

 - Original Message -
 *From:* D.J. Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* Alan Lombard alan.lomb...@sympatico.ca ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Monday, February 02, 2015 10:35 AM
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

 Towed in a few boats with props not opening from our club.  If you race
 the current penalty is 12 seconds per mile.  Don't care for them myself.

  *From:* Alan Lombard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Saturday, January 31, 2015 4:10 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

  Hello Gary,

 I too have a CC 30 and am debating either a Gori or a FlexoFold. Do you
 remember what size Flexofold you have, and can you comment if it seems the
 right size. The recommendation Flexofold have made to me is  2-blade
 15x11R.

 Thanks,

 Alan

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Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Had a 3 cylinder on a previous boats and it was very reliable.

As parts go I never had trouble finding the marine-ized versions, And as
they are based on Kubota tractor engines, there is a lot of information
about finding the non-marine parts at a cheaper price.

On Thu, Jan 29, 2015 at 6:59 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I have a M430 diesel and have found it to be bullet proof.  I haven't had
 to buy many parts for it in the 18 year I've had her, but when I need the
 parts they were available.  The parts aren't cheap, but seem to be
 available.  Other than that, I just turn the key, push the button and away
 we go.  If it is professionally rebuilt, it seems like a steal to me.

 Gary
 S/V Expresso
 '75 CC 35 Mk II
 East Greenwich, RI, USA


 ~~~_/)~~


 On Wed, Jan 28, 2015 at 9:15 PM, jason shoemake via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I've found a Universal M4-30 close to home, 100 miles away, $3,000. Does
 anyone have any experience with these? Are parts available? The seller says
 its been completely rebuilt and has one hour on it, was on eBay earlier
 this year for $4,5000, why didn't it sell??
  My '78 29-1 has long since had the A4 gutted along with the fuel tank,
 panel, shaft and everything but the strut, gone!
 It was gifted to me with a long shaft 9.9.
 She's on the hard here in Mississippi, needing a few other things as well.
 I just cant bring myself to launch her with that O/B astern.

 So the question I'm asking is Pull the trigger on the M4 or hold off,
 wait for a better opportunity?

 Thanks,
 Jason Shoemake
 SV Bijou


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Re: Stus-List Lavish CC's

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

On the value of these boats, not sure if this sheds any light, but it is an
interesting story.

In 2012 there was an older CC 61 custom ketch on a mooring owned by a boat
yard upriver from our club on the Hudson River. The ask was ~$350k. The
owner was an eldery gentleman and access to the boat was via dinghy. In a
tragic accident the owner died when transferring from boat to dinghy.

The boat was subject to a severe price drop and was listed at $189k. Not
sure what was actually paid, but the boat sold pretty quickly. I am not
sure if the new owner fully closed or took possession of the boat, but this
all transpired in October. The boat was still in the water when Sandy hit
and wound up on the rocks.

The boat was offered for Salvage, but I am not sure what happened to it
after that. I hope it was saved. It was a beautiful boat that had a really
sad story.

Eric Baumes
34/36+MOD
Nyack NY

On Tue, Jan 27, 2015 at 9:00 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


You're probably right  Like you I have no idea what it's really
worth. Looks like a mostly custom job,  someone spent some serious coin
having it built..  As for the interior and the bar yeah, you'd have to pay
attention not to trip into the stools in an angry sea but for the 'Power
Brokers champagne and umbrella drink parties that's the ticket. LOL

Nice to see how the other half lives..

-Francois
1990 34+ Take five
Lake Lanier, GA


 [image: Inactive hide details for Brent Driedger ---01/26/2015 10:40:37
 PM---She's a pretty boat but seems a little pricey. It's no Swa]Brent
 Driedger ---01/26/2015 10:40:37 PM---She's a pretty boat but seems a little
 pricey. It's no Swan. But then again once we leave the 100k b

 From: Brent Driedger bren...@highspeedcrow.ca
 To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: 01/26/2015 10:40 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Lavish CC's
 --



 She's a pretty boat but seems a little pricey. It's no Swan. But then
 again once we leave the 100k barrier on a 26 year old boat, I'm really out
 of touch with what costs are.
 She looks more suited for entertaining at the harbour then thrashing about
 in the ocean.

 Brent D
 CC 27-v
 Lake Winnipeg.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:37 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 *cnc-list@cnc-list.com* cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Did you see the 1989 57 in Seebrook, TX?

For only 325K, you get a 57 complete with a bar that includes 3
permanent bar stools. See here:

 *http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/C%26C-57-2752865/Seabrook/TX/United-States#.VMbb5P54rg4*

 http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/C%26C-57-2752865/Seabrook/TX/United-States#.VMbb5P54rg4

When your sailin' yacht is sporting an actual bar with stools you know
you're a Playah  :-)   It takes the Ultimate Man Cave idea to a whole
new level.

PS, Here's the video from our 1st sail for 2015.  It was honkin' 18-22
steady knots with gusts pushing 29-30.  Sunny, mid 50's, and gorgeous.  We
hit 8.4 knots with a conservative 2 reefs on the main and the jib furled
down to about 110 %


*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daABRxXtcJc*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daABRxXtcJc

   -Francois
   1990 34+ Take Five
   Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Used Sails sources recommendations

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Bacon Sails http://www.baconsails.com/ bought a spinnaker a couple years,
was as described.

On Tue, Jan 27, 2015 at 12:59 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


After our 25-30 knot wind adventure I had a couple tears in my furling
135 genoa (I had it down to about 100) it's at the loft for repairs and my
guy is telling me I really need a 'Heavy Weather' working jib of some sort
to handle this 25-30 knots stuff.

Since those higher winds days are rather infrequent on the lake I
don't really want to spend a lot of money on a new working jib. (Although I
might get a new 135)  Do you guys have recommendations for good sources on
used sails?  I would think a 10oz heavy Dacron 100 of some description
would do fine.

I'm told that Bacon sails in Annapolis is a great place to start, any
other suggestions?

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA




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Re: Stus-List CC's new Hot Rod

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I sailed it a few weeks ago when it was in Mamaroneck NY. It was a fun boat
to sail. We had pretty light and variable winds, but we still saw 9kts on a
reach with the Asym.

One of my crew is obsessed with the boat and may actually buy one.

Eric
CC 34/36
Nyack NY

On Tue, Dec 2, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Here's a great write-up on the new CC 30 hot stuff racer:
 http://sailingmagazine.net/article-1560-ready-for-take-off.html?current_page=1

 Who knows?  One of these days I might win the lottery or something / get
 one of those and show the Melges / Tiger boys how it's done  :-)

 PS I loved Dennis' Anchor dragging story too.

Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Georgia


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Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Please post pictures of the blooper.

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 4:49 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 We will be racing on Sunday in Branford, CT.  The Around the Bouys
 Wednesday night series transitions to Sundays between Labor Day and end of
 October .  The course is normally set around a few nearby government marks,
 but this week is slightly different with a course out around Faulkner's
 Island (about 10nm) away and back.  The forecast is for ~50 degrees, no
 rain, 20kn - downwind on the way out. I'm planning to break the blooper out
 for the first time since I've owned Mojito as we have a few experienced
 people on board and a long leg to play with it.

 It's a very casual race so any other CC's around Branford would be very
 welcome if they just turn up and announce themselves on Ch 68.  Warning
 signal is 11:00am at Cow  Calf just outside the harbor.

 Tim
 Mojito
 CC 35-3
 Branford, CT

 On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Anyone headed out? It looks like we’ll have frontal passage here
 Saturday night, so the plan is to go to Baltimore and then sail home with
 15 knots on the stern Sunday. We were going to go to Saint Michaels, but
 the forecast is uphill both ways and I don’t trust Kent Narrows with a
 strong northerly.



 *Joe Della Barba*

 *Coquina*

 *CC 35*

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Stus-List 34/36 bowsprit retrofit

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Some pictures/write up from my bowsprit project.

http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project
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Stus-List Window replacement (cross posted from 34-36 group

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hello,

I think my winter project this year will be to replace the windows on the
boat. They are pretty badly pitted and have vertical splits in the windows.

Any advise on taking on this task.

It looks like South Shore Yachts will create these based on a paper
template.

I am wondering how to get the old windows off without destroying the deck
and how to glue the new ones in.

Eric

Hee Soo
CC 36/36+
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Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Z-Sailes in Stamford CT can arrange s donation to charity. Not sure about
pickup.

Eric


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 3:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Does anyone know of an organization (preferably charity) that accepts old
 sails as donations? I’d love to find one in the northeast that would be
 willing to come and pick them up. Have quiet a few old headsails and a
 couple of spinnakers that need new homes.


 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


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