Stus-List Re: Stus test #3

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Both John and Marek emails came with both plain and rich text in the
content.

On Sat, Feb 5, 2022 at 3:24 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> All three are good here!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 5, 2022, at 3:22 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> This came through fine.
>
> Marek
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Stu via CnC-List 
> Date: 2022-02-05 15:11 (GMT-05:00)
> To: C&C Email List 
> Cc: Stu 
> Subject: Stus-List Stus test #3
>
>
> This is sent using Thunderbird Mail App in Plain and Rich (html)Text.
>
>
> Stu
> There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
> There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
>
> There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Stus test #3

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Well, there isn't any rich text in the content that got to gmail. The
following starts after cc: line after the headers.
All three of the messages arrived as plain text only.

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format="flowed"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


This is sent using Thunderbird Mail App in Plain and Rich (html)Text.


Stu
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's
Day:cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards


If you want I can copy the entire email in it's original form into a txt
file if you would find it useful.

On Sat, Feb 5, 2022 at 3:11 PM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> This is sent using Thunderbird Mail App in Plain and Rich (html)Text.
>
>
> Stu
> There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
>
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: stu's list email test

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

What came to my inbox looks normal on gmail.com.
The actual payload contains a plain text part and an html part and a second
plain text part.
The first two contain the same words, the last contains the part about
Valentine's Day.

This at the top
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
boundary="===6925626204919794291=="So then there are 3
boundaries the second of which contains three new boundaries
--===6925626204919794291==
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The first section contains no content followed by this. As you can see
another boundary defined.
--===6925626204919794291==
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_371582_500285964.1644077225520"This part inside
the outer boundary contains "Just checking the email list..." in plain
text.
--=_Part_371582_500285964.1644077225520
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
This part contains "Just checking the email list..." formated with html
--=_Part_371582_500285964.1644077225520
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8

...

--=_Part_371582_500285964.1644077225520--
--===6925626204919794291==
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

There is still time to get ...

--===6925626204919794291==--I am by no means knowledgeable
on the subject of email content and formatting. It is my belief that
some email clients may have an issue with this.
It seems strange to me that there is a boundary within a boundary.
I have not compared this to other emails that may or may not look
correct as gmail has no issue with rendering this content.

Cheers.

On Sat, Feb 5, 2022 at 11:07 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Just checking the email list.  Haven't seen any activity for a couple days
> and worried the recent problems may have disabled my connection to the
> group.
>
> Lonely winter morning.
>
> There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: 30 MK I Forestay Length

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Good to know. I should have looked it up. I had to get a new furler as my
old one broke. It was a bad mistake by me unstepping the mast. So the mast
was down. Got a new forestay as I had no idea the age of it. Sadly the new
furler tack attachment point was almost a foot higher. As a result required
the #2 Genoa to be cut. Mast was up when I realized this. Measured with a
tape measure and the slider on the furler.
Turns out I should have subtracted some. I would say if the length was any
longer it would not be tight all the way up. .5 in shorter and I could then
tension the luff to a more desirable tension. Since it is in the slot all
the way up it looks fine. Just not perfect.

On Sat, Jan 22, 2022 at 11:45 AM Randy Stafford 
wrote:

> Thanks Garry.
>
> J is defined as the horizontal length of the base of the foretriangle from
> the landing point of the forestay on the deck to the front side of the
> mast.  For a 30 MK I that landing point is the chainplate at the top of the
> bow stem.  A horizontal line aft from that point meets the front of the
> mast just below the partners.  But I don’t think that invalidates the
> geometric estimate of forestay length.
>
> In any case, I’ll be measuring it this weekend using a tape on a genoa
> halyard from the bow, and I'll report back.  I’ll have to compare the
> halyard sheave height to the forestay attachment height and adjust the
> measurement accordingly (I can’t go up the mast right now because the boat
> is shrink-wrapped).
>
> This is all for the purpose of determining the luff length for a new sail
> I’m ordering to go on a new furler I have yet to install - a Selden Furlex
> 204S.  Selden has calculators for the luff length, that take the forestay
> length as an input.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
> SV Grenadine
>
> On Jan 22, 2022, at 9:01 AM, Garry Cross  wrote:
>
> I doubt the geometric calculation you are using will work. A straight line
> at right angles to the mast will likely cross the bow line below where the
> forestay attaches.
> If you have a halyard that turns near where the forestay attaches, you
> likely will get a closer approximation than the geometry method.
>
> According to sailboatdata.com
> Est. Forestay Len: 41.27 ft / 12.58 m
> Seems your calculation agrees with that.
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 7:51 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello Listers,
>>
>> Does anybody know the forestay length of a 30 MK I as it came from the
>> factory, with the rig properly tuned for 8” of mast rake?
>>
>> By geometry (square root of I squared plus J squared) I’d expect it to be
>> in the neighborhood of 41’3”.  I is 39’ for a 30 MK I, and J is 13.5’.
>>
>> According to the owner’s manual the forestay cable is 1/4” and the lower
>> fitting is 1/2” jaw to jaw turnbuckle & toggle.  On mine,
>> the cable is swaged into an eye fitting on the lower end, which is pinned
>> to a turnbuckle screw that’s probably 1/2” jaw to jaw (if that’s what’s
>> meant by the owner’s manual).  The screw at the other end of the turnbuckle
>> is identical, and is pinned to a toggle that’s pinned to the bow stem.
>> Picture at
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT794BQaw0R8aWZCK9NqmVqRJ9K85VT9/view?usp=sharing
>> .
>>
>> I’m wondering if this is the standard from-the-factory setup, and what
>> the overall forestay length is from pin at masthead to pin at bow stem,
>> when the rig is properly tuned.
>>
>> Thank You,
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C&C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 30 MK I Forestay Length

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I doubt the geometric calculation you are using will work. A straight line
at right angles to the mast will likely cross the bow line below where the
forestay attaches.
If you have a halyard that turns near where the forestay attaches, you
likely will get a closer approximation than the geometry method.

According to sailboatdata.com
Est. Forestay Len: 41.27 ft / 12.58 m
Seems your calculation agrees with that.


On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 7:51 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Listers,
>
> Does anybody know the forestay length of a 30 MK I as it came from the
> factory, with the rig properly tuned for 8” of mast rake?
>
> By geometry (square root of I squared plus J squared) I’d expect it to be
> in the neighborhood of 41’3”.  I is 39’ for a 30 MK I, and J is 13.5’.
>
> According to the owner’s manual the forestay cable is 1/4” and the lower
> fitting is 1/2” jaw to jaw turnbuckle & toggle.  On mine,
> the cable is swaged into an eye fitting on the lower end, which is pinned
> to a turnbuckle screw that’s probably 1/2” jaw to jaw (if that’s what’s
> meant by the owner’s manual).  The screw at the other end of the turnbuckle
> is identical, and is pinned to a toggle that’s pinned to the bow stem.
> Picture at
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT794BQaw0R8aWZCK9NqmVqRJ9K85VT9/view?usp=sharing
> .
>
> I’m wondering if this is the standard from-the-factory setup, and what the
> overall forestay length is from pin at masthead to pin at bow stem, when
> the rig is properly tuned.
>
> Thank You,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I don't know about all the other questions but the heat will happen
wherever the highest resistance is. So if the copper wires have sufficient
gauge one might expect the bolt would heat up. One would have to compare
feet of copper to inches of steel to determine where the load will be. As
to damage it would depend on how well it is protected from over current. I
don't think I would try it.

On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing
> out my transom.
>
> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three
> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one
> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
>
>
>
> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so,
> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems **maybe**
> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up,
> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an
> option.
>
> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to
> go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what
> happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>
> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a
> little safer.
>
> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the
> bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just
> melt the insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a
> factor of the gauge of the wires?
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Old Harken Roller II

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I have never figured out which one I have. It has roll pins to connect the
foils. Can never find the right pins and am missing the top cap and have
one broken connector. I kept all the pieces just in case I broke the new
one like I broke this one. I don't like the new one. It is 1" in diameter,
has a higher drum so I had to cut the sail. Now the tell tales are too
close to the fat foil and remain in turbulent air due the foil diameter. I
would rather have fixed the old one and kept the sail as it was. Nice thin
double track foil.

On Fri, Jul 9, 2021 at 11:19 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> HI Guys, I replaced my old harken roller furler with a new Sheafer.
>
> Before I toss it, I thought I'd see if anyone needed any parts.  Maybe I
> should send it to one of the used boat parts places.  At least maybe it
> could go to use rather than being trashed...
>
> I replaced the old harken traveler too.  So, I still have that laying
> around.
>
> Danny
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question??

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

 "who would want to buy an engine with no available transmission?"
Someone with a blown engine and good transmission that is the same. So far
I have not seen the model number of the engine or the transmission.
Why did the tranny fail after 200 hours?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Gmail filter

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I tried telling google that the emails were not spam. Multiple times.
Didn't help.
Thanks Dennis, I used your suggestion, modified to use the sender email
address to identify the desired email.
Skip the inbox, label CNC-LIST, don't send to spam, catagorize as forums.
I can look in the labeled folder or in the forums tab.

Still stuck on the hard due our wonderful government.

Garry Cross
35MkII, Lake Ontario, WYC

On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 8:39 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can turn off conversation mode in gmail.  Conversation mode really
> blows!
>
>
>
> You can also use a different email program with your gmail account.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* May 1, 2021 2:31 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Gmail filter
>
>
>
> I'm not having any issue with gmail using this filter:
>
>
>
> Matches: *subject:(*Stus-List*)*
> Do this: Skip Inbox, Apply label "C&C list", Never send it to Spam
>
>
>
> I have a folder called C&C list.  Hence the second criteria in my filter.
> All list emails end up in that folder.
>
>
>
>   --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 11:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I found a bunch of messages in my Spam folder. I have no idea why they are
> going there, but I'm getting pretty sick of Gmail.
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 1 May 2021 at 04:59, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> And about 50% of the time my responses don't post.  I responded to this
> thread about using natural sponge and it never showed up on the list.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder seam

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I could carry it. Lifting it up to install it not doable single handed.
Getting the alignment in the tube, while handling the weight, without help
lasted about 5 min. I dropped it ok single handed. Two can install it
without much trouble.

On Mon., Apr. 26, 2021, 2:55 p.m. G Gao via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Does anyone know the weight of a rudder of this size? Just curious.
>
> Bo
>
> On Mon, Apr 26, 2021 at 2:37 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Garry; that is an amazing story! the skin just fell off the rudder? I
>> have never heard of that!   Are you in an area where it freezes all winter?
>>
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Garry Cross via CnC-List 
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Garry Cross 
>> Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2021 2:25 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: rudder seam
>>
>> I have a 35MkII. I had a crack near the top of the rudder. I thought I
>> fixed it by wrapping the crack with a couple of sheets of glass, fairing
>> etc. Attempted to seal the shaft. I was new and didn't know anything about
>> fixing boats. Anyway it cracked again. Learned about draining the rudder in
>> the winter. Did that but did not fix the crack. Next haul out the skin was
>> gone from my rudder and most of the foam. The stock has a steel plate
>> welded to it and was in good shape.
>> I had it repaired for around 3 boat bucks Cdn. The guy who did it foamed
>> and faired the shape and then wrapped cloth completely around it, faired
>> and interprotected it.
>> Only one season in so fingers crossed it won't split again.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KNh5rRxXr3E9Y8DxBbIOXvvC3bBZ5XUs/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Garry Cross
>> 1974 C&C MKII
>>
>> On Apr 24, 2021, at 5:14 PM, G Gao via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Continuing my adventure with sailing and my boat...looking for advise
>> from experienced sailors, as always...
>>
>> Today as I was observing the hull condition, I found that my rudder had
>> the seam showing in this picture:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D5lgN8g9YE9EAxo4RPYL9sO4vUnhYVqF/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Is this something serious or I can patch it up myself?
>>
>> thank you in advance.
>>
>> Bo
>>
>>
>> --
>> 1974 C&C 35 MK2
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>  Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks
>> - Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder seam

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Lake Ontario. So yes below 0C for most days. Dec - Mar. One can imagine on
a close haul with the weather helm not properly tuned the stress on the
rudder would open the crack and peel the skin off.

On Mon., Apr. 26, 2021, 2:37 p.m. Richard Bush via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Garry; that is an amazing story! the skin just fell off the rudder? I have
> never heard of that!   Are you in an area where it freezes all winter?
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -----Original Message-
> From: Garry Cross via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Garry Cross 
> Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2021 2:25 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: rudder seam
>
> I have a 35MkII. I had a crack near the top of the rudder. I thought I
> fixed it by wrapping the crack with a couple of sheets of glass, fairing
> etc. Attempted to seal the shaft. I was new and didn't know anything about
> fixing boats. Anyway it cracked again. Learned about draining the rudder in
> the winter. Did that but did not fix the crack. Next haul out the skin was
> gone from my rudder and most of the foam. The stock has a steel plate
> welded to it and was in good shape.
> I had it repaired for around 3 boat bucks Cdn. The guy who did it foamed
> and faired the shape and then wrapped cloth completely around it, faired
> and interprotected it.
> Only one season in so fingers crossed it won't split again.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KNh5rRxXr3E9Y8DxBbIOXvvC3bBZ5XUs/view?usp=sharing
>
> Garry Cross
> 1974 C&C MKII
>
> On Apr 24, 2021, at 5:14 PM, G Gao via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
> Continuing my adventure with sailing and my boat...looking for advise from
> experienced sailors, as always...
>
> Today as I was observing the hull condition, I found that my rudder had
> the seam showing in this picture:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D5lgN8g9YE9EAxo4RPYL9sO4vUnhYVqF/view?usp=sharing
>
> Is this something serious or I can patch it up myself?
>
> thank you in advance.
>
> Bo
>
>
> --
> 1974 C&C 35 MK2
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder seam

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I have a 35MkII. I had a crack near the top of the rudder. I thought I
fixed it by wrapping the crack with a couple of sheets of glass, fairing
etc. Attempted to seal the shaft. I was new and didn't know anything about
fixing boats. Anyway it cracked again. Learned about draining the rudder in
the winter. Did that but did not fix the crack. Next haul out the skin was
gone from my rudder and most of the foam. The stock has a steel plate
welded to it and was in good shape.
I had it repaired for around 3 boat bucks Cdn. The guy who did it foamed
and faired the shape and then wrapped cloth completely around it, faired
and interprotected it.
Only one season in so fingers crossed it won't split again.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KNh5rRxXr3E9Y8DxBbIOXvvC3bBZ5XUs/view?usp=sharing

Garry Cross
1974 C&C MKII

On Apr 24, 2021, at 5:14 PM, G Gao via CnC-List 
wrote:


Continuing my adventure with sailing and my boat...looking for advise from
experienced sailors, as always...

Today as I was observing the hull condition, I found that my rudder had the
seam showing in this picture:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D5lgN8g9YE9EAxo4RPYL9sO4vUnhYVqF/view?usp=sharing

Is this something serious or I can patch it up myself?

thank you in advance.

Bo


-- 
1974 C&C 35 MK2
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK II

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Same bolts as mine, two bolts through the mast step, one is under the mast.
I have the original cast alloy mast step.

On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 10:46 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A fine looking example with some nice upgrades. I noticed the new SS mast
> step, which appears to have a keel stud/nut aft of the mast. Mine is under
> the mast (or so I'm told...), so does this mean that a new stud was tapped
> into the keel at this point? Certainly easier to check torque in that
> location.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:57 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>>
>>
>> If anyone is in the market, a friend of mine is listing his 1974 35 mk
>> II, well kept version that has been to Bermuda many times.
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/c-c-35-mk-ii-3821830/
>>
>>
>>
>> John McCrea
>>
>> Talisman
>>
>> Mystic, CT 06355
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Digest emails

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Used to get digests. Then nothing. Now just individual. Prefer it that way
now. A side benefit, no more replies to digests.
I say don't fix it.

On 2021-02-12 10:16 a.m., Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just checking – is anybody receiving digest emails with or without any
> problems.
>
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_7711315429183300013_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

To be honest, I did not notice. I may have wondered why boat speed or why
wind angle I expected could not be achieved.
I think backing up was more of an issue.
That big steel blade worked pretty well. Frankly couldn't say how long it
was like that. Somewhere between launch and haul out.



On Mon, Mar 16, 2020 at 3:59 PM Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Wow.  What did it feel to steer with it like that?  Did it feel like there
> was still a rudder of sorts connected to it?
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, 16 Mar 2020 at 13:56, Garry Cross via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the feedback.
>> Turns out the hardest part was crawling in and out of that tight space.
>> Especially on the starboard side. Not much room between fuel tank and
>> quarter birth.
>> I was thinking I could leave the quadrant on but then realized I have to
>> take the key out of the shaft. Undid the 4 bolts and one cable and it fell
>> right off, Key came out no problem.
>> I had already undid the set screws and collar at the top. I had it back
>> on again while I worked on the quadrant. After taking it off again, with a
>> little rotation to free up the surface tension it began to slide out on its
>> own. The boat on the cradle was high enough that I did not have to dig a
>> hole. Here is a link to show why I had to take it out. Frost had taken its
>> toll and a heavy close haul was all that was need to tear the fiberglass
>> skin and some foam off the steel blade.
>> There are some pictures here of the quadrant, top of post and rudder.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l4qMR5c9EUig7z1T4G1r97X9uSPagWU_
>>
>> I'm hoping it can be re-skinned.
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 15:55:14 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.
>> Does it have a collar on top of the rudder tube?  My 35-1 does.  Must be
>> removed before dropping rudder.
>>
>> For a picture, scroll down to about Page 14 here:
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=115qLR3c13N2THCRpsOF-7UGGJBweFXfd
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 2:19 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all, I started the process of removing my rudder. I have loosened the
>>> quadrant and cables attached to it and removed the bearing on the top of
>>> the rudder. Should it now just drop out? What else needs to be done?.
>>>
>>> Thanks all.
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Thanks for the feedback.
Turns out the hardest part was crawling in and out of that tight space.
Especially on the starboard side. Not much room between fuel tank and
quarter birth.
I was thinking I could leave the quadrant on but then realized I have to
take the key out of the shaft. Undid the 4 bolts and one cable and it fell
right off, Key came out no problem.
I had already undid the set screws and collar at the top. I had it back on
again while I worked on the quadrant. After taking it off again, with a
little rotation to free up the surface tension it began to slide out on its
own. The boat on the cradle was high enough that I did not have to dig a
hole. Here is a link to show why I had to take it out. Frost had taken its
toll and a heavy close haul was all that was need to tear the fiberglass
skin and some foam off the steel blade.
There are some pictures here of the quadrant, top of post and rudder.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l4qMR5c9EUig7z1T4G1r97X9uSPagWU_

I'm hoping it can be re-skinned.



-- Forwarded message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 15:55:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.
Does it have a collar on top of the rudder tube?  My 35-1 does.  Must be
removed before dropping rudder.

For a picture, scroll down to about Page 14 here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=115qLR3c13N2THCRpsOF-7UGGJBweFXfd

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 2:19 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all, I started the process of removing my rudder. I have loosened the
> quadrant and cables attached to it and removed the bearing on the top of
> the rudder. Should it now just drop out? What else needs to be done?.
>
> Thanks all.
>
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Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Hi all, I started the process of removing my rudder. I have loosened the
quadrant and cables attached to it and removed the bearing on the top of
the rudder. Should it now just drop out? What else needs to be done?.

Thanks all.
___

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Re: Stus-List Raw water blockage

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Just a thought.
Disconnect the belt from the water pump.
Undo the drain valve from the water muffler.
Run the pump with a drill and socket as you disconnect hoses.
Disconnect hoses as suggested by another lister. I would start at the
mixing elbow.
Find the fault zone and go from there.
If you get water out the hose connected to the mixing elbow, then you know
what to do next.
If not divide and conquer.

I use this method to fill my heat exchanger with anti freeze and watch the
drain for antifreeze to come out.


From: Tom Buscaglia 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2020 11:06:27 -0800
> Subject: Stus-List Raw water blockage
> I have checked the intake, pump, strainer, heat exchanger, mixing elbow.
> All are clear, elbow is new.  Still, no water out exhaust.
>
> I am wondering if the vented loop between the heat exchanger and mixing
> elbow could be the culprit.  It is even necessary on my boat?  Seems that
> the elbow is well above the water line and the loop could be bypassed.
>
> The  only other possibility is the hoses on the suction side of the system
> collapsing on the inside...but that still seems unlikely.
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
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Stus-List Trimming

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Just a few suggestions.
Help us readers of digests and stu's storage costs.

Trim your replies to the most recent responses, especially if one of the
responses contains a digest.
Some of these chains get longer than a digest and are painful to scroll
through especially if using a handheld.
Often what I do is just copy the email I wish to reply to out of the
digest, start a new email, paste the copied content and copy the subject as
the subject and include the Re: part as well. If it does not have Re: add
one.

Regards.
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Re: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger Connected?

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

*I have a TC2 40. I have several issues with it.*

It boils the electrolyte out of my battery. Not sure if this is typical or
not.

It pops any GFCI it's plugged into.

If the engine has been running long enough that it should have replaced
what was drained to start the engine the charger still puts more into the
bank.

Regarding point two an ohm meter between ground and neutral reads IIRC
about 200 ohms.

I also miss wired something on the DC side and blew the fuses inside when I
first installed it.





*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, October 31, 2019 11:01 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Coleman 
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger
Connected?



Interesting, I have a Truecharge2, 20 amp which charges my starting battery.

Now that I am hauled and plugged into a 20 amp 120  V plug,  it pops the
breaker. Is there such a thing as a soft start for a charger, which doesn’t
send a surge through when initially turned on?



Bill Coleman

Erie PA
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Here in Ontario, none of the clubs I have been at, including a Marina have
mentioned anything about power washing. Run off goes on the gravel. Done to
all the boats on haul out, either by owner, by the club or hired help.
Scraping and sanding it is required to catch and dispose of the
particulate.

-- Forwarded message --
> From: Shawn Wright 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 20:09:40 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning
> Here in BC, there are pretty stiff regulations about capturing run off
> from pressure washing and wet or dry sanding. My club has an area large
> enough for 8-10 boats to be hauled which drains into a multi stage
> filtration system, so we can pressure wash or wet sand as long as the
> system is active, and the water is recycled for this purpose.
> My understanding is that Canadian regulations are actually stiffer than
> the US in terms of additives permitted in bottom paints, and most yards I
> have seen locally have prominent warnings posted about rules for bottom
> cleaning, and the stiff penalties for not following them. Enforcement may
> vary of course...
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
>
> __
>
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

My 2 cents.
Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad connection,
likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal house circuits
cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another bad connection
but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop the voltage
enough that things stop working but the start current drops the voltage to
much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with low amps there
is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the current and you
produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm resistance and your
gonna drop 6V.  Put a voltmeter there with no load it will read 12V.
Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at
the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the
voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
issue is in the hot path.



-- Forwarded message --
> From: Jeff Helsdingen 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all
> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery
> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem
> I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly
> become undersized quickly too.
>
> Jeff Helsdingen
> Caposhi
> C&C 35 mk 1 #54
> Port Stanley On.
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>>> electrical issue du jour.
>>>
>>> Mine is a C&C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
>>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
>>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
>>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
>>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>>> the engine.
>>>
>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
>>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
>>> left for a few more days on the water.
>>>
>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
>>> both batteries.
>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
>>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
>>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
>>> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
>>> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
>>> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
>>> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
>>> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
>>> slowly.
>>>
>>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
>>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
>>> appreciate any suggestions
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy, C&C 33 MK II
>>>
>>
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Stus-List Spider webs in my Wind Transducers

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Anybody know of a way to persuade spider from building webs attached to my
wind transducers.
If I have to climb the mast, I only want to do it once. Maybe there is a
repellent or something to spray up there that won't wash away at the next
rain. For awhile it was just the speed transducer and a good blow would
break it free. Now the other day my direction indicator was stuck until I
did a few gybes and tacks.
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Re: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I have a MKii, it is solid glass that I know of, and confirmed by the
brochure.
Looking at the brochure for the MkIII, hull is balsa core.

Garry Cross

-- Forwarded message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2019 19:44:56 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Depth Transducer Installation

The 35 MK I is solid glass FYI.

Joe

Coquina



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob
Ball via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, April 14, 2019 4:18 PM
*To:* Gary Nylander 
*Cc:* Rob Ball ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation



The standard was that boats smaller than 35 had solid glass hulls.

35 and up has balsa, but it is faded out about six to eight inches from
centerline.

Rob Ball







[image:
https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]

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Re: Stus-List C&C'ers and The List

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Funny how crossing paths in this world work.
I was in Venice until Wednesday last.
I passed through that jetty on Monday in the morning and evening on a small
fishing boat.
Did not see Headroom. It would have been interesting if we could have met.

Happy sailing.
1974 C&C 35
CBYC, Toronto, ON.


-- Forwarded message --
From: Edd Schillay 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2019 10:53:08 -0400
Subject: Stus-List C&C'ers and The List
Listers,

Yesterday, while my wife and I were driving through Venice, Florida, I saw
through the corner of my eye a couple sitting on their C&C 37+ at a dock
near the gulf jetty. So, as you can imagine, we just had to walk over to
say hello.

It was a 1989 C&C 37+ named “Headroom” owned by Tom and his wife Brady —
and yes, Patriots fans, he’s “Tom" and she’s “Brady”, though they claim
they’ve been married long before the quarterback was even born.

They have owned the 37+ for close to 20 years, and before that, owned a C&C
32. I did not inquire about the genesis of the “Headroom” name, but I
imagine it either had something to do with the toilet or possibly that Tom,
in his younger years, May have looked like M-M-Ma-M-Max.

We chatted for a bit and I was surprised to learn that they had no idea
about Stu’s site or the List, which I maintain is one of the most valuable
parts of owning a C&C these days. As a fellow C&C 37+ owner, he seemed
especially interested in “Obi-Wan” Ken Heaton’s site/database and Josh
Muckley’s contributions.

With that in mind, we owe it to ourselves and other C&C owners to “talk-up”
this service whenever we see another C&C owner on the water. Let’s do what
we can to expand this group.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
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Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

So, from experiace, mid boom to toe rail with no brake, not good. Had that
on the LO300. 3m waves, down wind. Rudder out of water on the crests. Boat
went to port, backwinded the main. Bent the boom where the preventer was
attached.

-- Forwarded message --
From: Joe Della Barba 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2019 11:55:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

Mine goes form mid-boom to the toerail. I have never seen an end-boom
preventer.

I also have a boom brake device I need to rig up one of these days. It does
not prevent a gybe, it just makes it sloow

Joe

Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Understand that. Wonder what degree of heel it would take to achieve that.
One would think that it would be extreme and that one would want to reduce
that as soon as possible.
I think that regardless, if the cockpit floor scupper is below the water
line, I don't care where the through hull is for that particular scupper, I
got more things to worry about.
Having them crossed it is easy for me to imagine a heel where the through
hull is higher than the drain. I don't see how that helps. The normal way
the through hull is below the drain unless the boat is upside down.
I am not saying it's wrong, just trying to understand the geometry and
drainage.

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 3:01 PM Neil Andersen 
wrote:

> The issue is when the cockpit holes AND the thru-hulls are both below the
> line.
>
> Neil
> 1982 C&C 32 FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
> --------------
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Garry Cross
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 2, 2019 2:19 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Garry Cross
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains
>
> Interesting, on the 35-2 there are 4 drains and 2 through hulls. I don't
> think they are above the waterline.
> The aft cockpit floor is lower than the forward one. Both sets of drains
> are forward.
> Replaced valves and hoses a few years ago. Reused the through hulls
> although the tabs inside got busted trying to hold them to unscrew the
> valves. C&C should have used real through hulls that are bolted to the
> hull.
>
> Picture of Second Chance under sail.
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P9GN3fVTNp2PHzZuVQuB29tcbe3oxpA9
> Happy New Year
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2018 13:44:05 -0600
>> Subject: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains
>> Just to piggyback on the stuck seacock thread.
>>
>> My buddy is a salvor.  He gets the call when a boat on our bayou is on
>> the bottom.  A significant percentage of the sinkings involve plugged
>> cockpit scupper drains.  Leaves and/or debris plug the drain(s).  The
>> cockpit fills with rain water.  The weight of the water sinks the boat
>> until the cockpit scuppers are submerged and down it goes.  Sometimes a
>> neglected boat with a low companionway threshold will get so much rain
>> water in the cockpit it overflows into the cabin.
>>
>> Leave the cockpit seacocks open and make sure they are clear.  I flush
>> Touche's twice a year.  Who knows what spider, mud dauber of whatever
>> builds a nest in them.
>>
>> Also, on haul out.  Make sure you know which way your cockpit drains.
>> Block the boat accordingly.  The 35-1 cockpit, like others, drains
>> forward.  I always make sure Touche' is blocked level or slightly bow down.
>>
>> Also, just as a note, the 35-1 has 4 cockpit scupper drains.  Two of them
>> are in the aft steering station which is separated from the rest of the
>> cockpit by a bulkhead.  These two drain exit at or slightly above the
>> waterline when the boat is floating on its lines.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
___

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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Interesting, on the 35-2 there are 4 drains and 2 through hulls. I don't
think they are above the waterline.
The aft cockpit floor is lower than the forward one. Both sets of drains
are forward.
Replaced valves and hoses a few years ago. Reused the through hulls
although the tabs inside got busted trying to hold them to unscrew the
valves. C&C should have used real through hulls that are bolted to the
hull.

Picture of Second Chance under sail.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P9GN3fVTNp2PHzZuVQuB29tcbe3oxpA9
Happy New Year


-- Forwarded message --
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2018 13:44:05 -0600
> Subject: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains
> Just to piggyback on the stuck seacock thread.
>
> My buddy is a salvor.  He gets the call when a boat on our bayou is on the
> bottom.  A significant percentage of the sinkings involve plugged cockpit
> scupper drains.  Leaves and/or debris plug the drain(s).  The cockpit fills
> with rain water.  The weight of the water sinks the boat until the cockpit
> scuppers are submerged and down it goes.  Sometimes a neglected boat with a
> low companionway threshold will get so much rain water in the cockpit it
> overflows into the cabin.
>
> Leave the cockpit seacocks open and make sure they are clear.  I flush
> Touche's twice a year.  Who knows what spider, mud dauber of whatever
> builds a nest in them.
>
> Also, on haul out.  Make sure you know which way your cockpit drains.
> Block the boat accordingly.  The 35-1 cockpit, like others, drains
> forward.  I always make sure Touche' is blocked level or slightly bow down.
>
> Also, just as a note, the 35-1 has 4 cockpit scupper drains.  Two of them
> are in the aft steering station which is separated from the rest of the
> cockpit by a bulkhead.  These two drain exit at or slightly above the
> waterline when the boat is floating on its lines.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

>
> It's a good idea to disconnect. Likely a radio and charger will still be
> connected even with switch off. The radio uses a trickle to keep the memory
> settings in place. Had a car in the garage for the winter. Learned about
> the radio and other car electronics the hard way.


>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: robert 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2018 22:38:08 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance
>   I prepare the batteries for winter on the boat by topping up the
> electrolyte, fully charge the batteries, check the specific gravity of
> all 12 cells looking for 1.260 or better, clean it, and disconnect
> everything from themsome say disconnect only the negative,some say
> the positiveI do both, beats deciding which one is the right one.
>
> The single biggest threat or chance of an accident where I live is
> freezing.if the specific gravity is 1.260 or close, the temperature
> would have to be something like minus -80 to -90 F
>
> If that happens,  2 frozen, dead batteries will be the least of my
> problems.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -#277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2018-11-30 9:23 p.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
> > Rob Abbott’s method works but in addition i recommend disconnecting
> > the cable from the positive terminal
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
___

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Stus-List Can't you read?

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Stu, can you ave the digest come from a noreply email address?
I wonder if your hosting site can do that.

This response was a copy and paste into a blank email.
I then copied the subject from the copy to the subject line.
Replying to the digest is too easy. And when you just want to respond and
get back to other things it's too easy to forget the proper etiquette. I
myself have failed at this.

Garry Cross
Second Chance
35 MK2


Forwarded message --
From: 
To: 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date:
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't you read?
Hi Stu, long time since we chattedI agree wholeheartedly with your
position
Maybe the time has come that "DIGEST" simply get blocked with an
"undeliverable" notice... you are not the email etiquette policedon't
waste your time, just block the send..
Best
Ron Casciato
Impromtu
C&C 38MKII
1977
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Stus-List CnC 35 MkII forstay length

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

 Hi, fellow MkII owners. Does anybody have the actual length of the
forstay.
I just got a new one and it is 47' 7.5 in pin to pin I don't think that is
long enough with a 47' J dimension and 15' I. This measurement with the
adjuster roughly 3/4 open.

Thanks.

Garry Cross
35MkII, Second Chance
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 149, Issue 7

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

>
> I tried a 1/8 straight punch. It was too big. I could not find a smaller
straight punch. Had to use a tapered punch and pulled the pin out with vice
grips.

Question.
Where is replacement from?
Are there connectors available?

Thanks


>


> -- Forwarded message --
> From: T power 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 17:06:11 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll pin size
>
> Hi Mike,
>
>
> Thanks for the info and tip on getting them out, I'm definitely going to
> try pressing them out.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Tom Power 
> Invictus
> C&C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of T power via
> CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, June 1, 2018 8:44:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* T power
> *Subject:* Stus-List Roll pin size
>
>
> Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They
> are joined with roll pins, which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have
> any idea what size they would be. Thanks for any help
>
>
> Tom Power 
> Invictus
> C&C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 13:26:38 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll pin size
> Definitely press or tap the pin out.  My rigger buddy and I have worked on
> a couple of MKI's.  We used an appropriately sized punch and gently tapped
> out the roll pins.  Here's Harken's directions on removing/replacing roll
> pins.
>
> http://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/Product_Support/PDF/4884.pdf
>
> Unfortunately, I don't have the diameter of pin to give you.  Harken no
> longer stocks them but they may be able to give you the correct size
> information.  You can them order them from mcmaster.com or another vendor.
>
> Be sure to use the correct size.  If you use a size that's too small, you
> risk having a pin work it's way partially out of the extrusion.  If your
> swivel is up, you won't be able to drop it.  :)  Seen that a couple times.
> It isn't pretty.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 12:06 PM, T power via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Mike,
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the info and tip on getting them out, I'm definitely going to
>> try pressing them out.
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>>
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C&C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of T power
>> via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 1, 2018 8:44:10 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* T power
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Roll pin size
>>
>>
>> Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They
>> are joined with roll pins, which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have
>> any idea what size they would be. Thanks for any help
>>
>>
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C&C 30
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Mathew I have Series 1. The foil connectors have roll pins. If yours is the
same, I need one as I broke one removing the mast.

Thanks.

- Forwarded message --
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 13:42:09 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts
Listers:

Due to the inability to replace a broken torque tube, I am upgrading
from a Harken original roller furler (1980s vintage MK 1, but not called
that), Unit 2, to the newer Harken model.  The new one is nearly finished,
and I cut up/recycled the old foils.  Before I recycle the rest of the old
parts, does anyone have an interest in them (aside from the broken torque
tube)?  Please advise if you do.  Thanks.

Matt Wolford
C&C 42 Custom
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Re: Stus-List subject line

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Sorry! I did trim it. I am my own enemy
Hate when people do that.

Garry Cross
Second Chance
1974 35-2


>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Stu Murray 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 01:26:17 +0100
> Subject: Stus-List subject line
> "Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol xxx, Issue xx"  is totally unacceptable.
> Change it to describe your emal content or your subscription could be
> changed for you.
>
> Stu
>
>
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 146, Issue 63

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

A great boat in great shape owned by a great guy. Nothing wrong with it. I
helped him race it since he bought the boat.
He was a lister before he passed away. May he rest in peace.


From: Doug Welch 
To: "C&C List" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2018 16:33:32 + (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List FOR SALE: A gem of a C&C 29-2 Located in Pickering, ON
I am helping the family of friend who passed this year sell the boat

FOR SALE: C&C 29 MK II


FOR SALE: C&C 29 MK II
By Doug Welch
Frenchmans Bay Yacht Club

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Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C&C 35mkII

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

When I purchased my 35 MKii a few years ago the head smelled really bad. No
amount of deodorizer helped. I removed the toilet, drained the tank and
used a bucket for awhile. Helped somewhat.
I tried to get it out through the hole it was mounted in but over the years
the bag was too stiff.

To remove the exterior wall you have to remove the sink cabinet.

There are plugged screws holding the front of the sink cabinet to the
interior wall between the galley and the v-birth. Drill out the plugs and
remove the screws. Drill out the plugs in the decorative strip on the front
of the sink counter. Remove the screws from underneath the counter and
remove the counter top. Remove the screws holding the cabinet front to the
exterior wall. Now your stuck. The exterior wall is screwed from the
backside and the shelf won't come out of the existing opening. It had to
have all gone in before the deck went on. Removed the screws from the
bottom of the wall that screw into the fiberglass toilet/floor base. Cut
the flange on the floor enough so that the bottom of the wall can be pulled
out. Pry it away at the bottom and get your fingers behind the wall. Pull
like hell. The screws will give way and pull out of the back of the wall.
They are only about 3/8 into the wall as it is only 1/2 inch thick. There
are only a few of them like, 2 or 3 on each side.
Remove the shelf and tank.

Rebuild as desired. I cut another slot in the wall and put in a second
shelf.
I built a tank in the v-berth and plumbed it along the hull and up to the
existing deck fittings and down to the head. Made a slot in the exterior
wall for the hose to exit to the head. Added a through hull to get fresh
water to the toilet. Old tank was is a recirculating tank.
I put a new laminate on the counter top and refinished all the panels with
urathane. Put a new single lever tap on the counter top and reused the
stainless steel sink.

Looks great and does not smell. Unless of course the breeze is
right(wrong). The breather is right outside the bathroom window in the hill
near the rail. You might want to move that somewhere else.

-- Forwarded message --
From: Bill Hoyne 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Greg Swetka 
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 08:57:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C&C 35mkII
Hi Greg,
Thanks for the info.
I was wondering how to dismantle the cabinetry. What do you have to do and
where are the screws? Do you have to take the sink area apart and then the
back panel? How is that back pannel connected to the side bulkheads?   It
sure looks like a major job and a PITA. How did you route the new hoses
from the forepeak to the thru-hulls?

Cheers,
Bill
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Short handed sailing; sail selection

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I don't think this was answered. I have a lazy jack system that I built
myself similar to what is on the photo album website. It's only 3 legged
and if I was to do it again I would make if 4 legged. My horn cleats are on
the mast in line with the boom with the blocks above the spreaders. Stowing
and deploying are similar to described on the website. I used 3/16 and
nylon thimbles in the eye's.
The issue with lazy jacks versus a stack pack would likely be spilling of
the sail. I don't think with the pack it can fall out. I get this with only
3 legs when windy and choppy and single handed with the boat rocking and
rolling and not quite head to wind.

It is still way better than no jacks or pack at all. One of the first
things I added.

Garry Cross
1974 CC35, CBYC, Lake Ontario

-- Forwarded message --
From: bushma...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2016 15:40:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Short handed sailing; sail selection
Mike, could you elaborate a bit? Do you mean the lazy jacks are not as good
as having a stackpack type arrangement? Thanks

Richard
S/V Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255 <%28502%29%20584-7255>


-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Fri, Dec 2, 2016 3:37 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Short handed sailing; sail selection

I have lazy jacks and I have sailed on a boat with Stack Pack.  Lazy Jacks
are not at all the same.

Mike
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Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Used to do it all the time.
Still do it but it is not as good as I am at different dock now.
Spring line attached midships long enough to reach rear cleat on the finger.
Mine is attached through the rail with a shackle. The line is attached to
the shackle with a spring hook for easy removal and replacement. At the
other end is a loop that can be hooked over the cleat on the dock. The loop
should be large enough that it easily falls over top of the cleat.
I leave it on the boat when leaving the dock. As you come in alongside the
finger have someone or yourself grab the line and hook it over the rear
cleat on the finger.
Obviously if doing it single handed you don't want to be moving to fast as
you have to leave the helm at the right moment to hook it.
Once on the spring line will stop the boat. Leave the boat idling in
forward with the rudder to port or starboard depending on which side the
dock is on. Sucks the boat right into the finger. Take your time with the
other lines.

The new location has a shorter finger and no horn cleat at the back.
Thankfully the place is well sheltered so wind is usually not too much of
an issue. Need help if it's windy until I can put a horn cleat at the back
of the finger.
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I have/had a similar issue. 3GM30 Left 1 week or longer it was hard to
start. When it did finally start it first started to fire on 1 or 2
cylinders. Lots of black smoke etc after. Then runs smooth. The less days
between starts easier starts. Even 1 day would be an instant start. On Oct
5 and the time before Sept 21 I had instant start. 14 days and the time
before was longer. I was really surprised by it especially the 5th as the
temp was around 20C. My battery isnt the issue. I think this behavior
started after I changed filters and bled the lines but not positive. It was
done in 2015. One of last sails before this stopped was a hard sail in
gusts 20k true. Close hauled and heeled over N2 and full main. Not sure
whats going on.  Thinking I stirred things up in the tank.

Garry Cross
1974 CC35 CBYC
Toronto

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Jake Brodersen 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2016 12:57:01 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel
>
> Tom,
>
>
>
> Running a diesel like that under no-load conditions won’t help it much.
Running it at the slip in gear would provide some load to the engine and be
more beneficial.  We usually have a 45 to 60 minute motor to the race
course, which helps keep the engine in top shape.  I usually set it at
2,800 rpm and keep it there.  Always idle it for a few minutes before
shutdown too.  This will help cool down the internal parts before you shut
it down.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>
> Hampton VA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 7, 2016 13:18
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Stus-List yanmar diesel
>
>
>
> The black smoke may indicate excessive carbon buildup.  If you don't have
three hours to run it is, next time you bring her in while the engine is
still running out it in neutral and run it up to 90% of max RPM for about 5
minutes.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
>
> S/V Alera
>
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>
> Vashon WA
>
> P 206.463.9200
>
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki Transmission in forward or reverse while sailing?

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Good to know. On mine if I put it in gear I need to start the engine to get
it out as the pressure while still sailing makes the shift lever very stiff
to move to neutral and that can't be good for the mechanism. I do not have
a folding prop. With a spinning prop, while not as good as folding, the
drag should be reduced somewhat as opposed to having it not spin.

Regards.
Garry Cross
1974 CC35-II
CBYC, Toronto.

-- Forwarded message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 10:17:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki Transmission in forward or reverse while
sailing?
Advisory Number: MSA08-003:

DATE February 8, 2008 Dealers and OEMs
TO: All Marine Distributors
SUBJECT: Gear in Neutral While Sailing All MODELS:

All Sailboat Engines

We continue to get questions regarding the correct gear position while
sailing with the engine OFF. This advisory is issued as a reminder; Yanmar
requires that if sailing with the engine OFF (not running) the transmission
shifter must be in the neutral position or internal damage to the gear or
sail-drive will result. This damage will not be covered by Yanmar's Limited
Warranty. Please instruct customers and dealers who deliver the sailboat to
the customer, of the correct (Neutral) position for the marine gear while
sailing.

If the customer desires that the propeller shaft not spin while sailing,
either a folding propeller, shaft break, or other suitable device may be
used. However, Yanmar accepts no responsibility for the selection,
installation, or operation of such devices. Please also refer to Marine
service advisory "MSA07-001_Yanmar Sail Drive Propeller Selection" for
additional information.

If you have any questions regarding this advisory please contact a Customer
Support representative."
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

While were on the subject. My 35-2 with 3GM30, don't know transmission yet,
has a 13x12 fixed prop. It might be 12x13, just going on memory.
>From the looks of things the diameter cannot be much more than it is as the
clearance to the hull is between 1-2 in.
My problem is I cannot get to hull speed. The engine does not seem to be
labored and I can get to 3600 rpm without effort. My speed is around 6kn
when I am going at those RPM.
Just wonder what others have with the same engine on a 35-2.




-- Forwarded message --
From: Bradley Lumgair 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 23:42:29 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
I have some C&C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several
of the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY
size listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how
to load it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I
just can't remember.

I'd rather be sailing
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Using a browser and the web version of gmail you have to click the drop
down in the top left of the reply window and click Edit Subject, at which
point you get a pop-up window that gives you the entire digest to edit as
you see fit.

I have to admit deleting the unwanted text is a PITA, but courteous to the
readers and to the archive storage requirements.

Then there are the various clients on handhelds and tablets that very
likely have nothing in common on the way to do it.




Regards
Garry Cross

-- Forwarded message --
> From: Brian Fry 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 08:59:17 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)
> For starters I reply with a variety of devices and they don't all work the
> same, some are easier than others.
>
> The fact that I am replying to a digest, instead of just one message in
> the digest, causes the subject header to be the Vol and Issue of the
> digest. I can't reply to just one message in the digest. If there was a way
> to do that it would go a long way to fixing the problem. It could also help
> if it only brought over the individual Message being replied to, instead of
> every message in the Digest issue. That would eliminate the mistake of not
> stripping out the unnecessary messages.
>
> When I choose 'reply' the subject line doesn't even appear, so it is not
> 'in my face' reminding me to change it. I have to drop down the subject
> header to see it and then change it. Not sure if there is a setting in
> gmail to change that, I will have to look.
>
> On the other hand, I think it is more of a hassle having to scroll and
> scan thru all of the messages to find the one I want to read. If one could
> click on the relevant subject at the top of the digest and have it take you
> down the page to the message you wanted it would save much more time than
> having read a subject line that said Re: VolXXX Issue aaa.
>
>
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 21:26:05 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ &
> Melody)
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+zacrdfk5nxzzgpe-ul2hshoudgay5jmkz1zeutlthc-om...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Brian,
>
> I approached someone else off list as to why/how this happens.  Can you
> possibly give some insights?  If there was legitimately something simple
> that could be done on the server side?  I considered that maybe renaming
> the digest subject to include "DO NOT REPLY" would help?  I've also thought
> that simply having a server rule that rejects all mail with the word DIGEST
> in the subject line?
>
> I guess I've never had a problem so I don't understand what's causing the
> problem.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C&C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List C&C 35 Keel bolt under mast.

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I was mistaken in an earlier post. There is a keel bolt under the mast.
Sorry.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-itSD5oQd-SEIxWlZXSFZNeUU/view?usp=docslist_api

Garry Cross
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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Oops, broke my own rules. Change subject when replying to digest.
I found a picture of of my mast step. A little larger and clearer than
Bill's

​
 Whitby-20120928-00027.jpg

​Garry Cross
Second Chance
1974 C&C 35 MKII
CBYC, Ontario


On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Garry Cross  wrote:

> There isn't any bolt under the base of the mast. Just the one aft of it.
>>
> My mast is out.
>
> Garry Cross
> Second Chance
> 1974 C&C 35 MKII
> CBYC, Ontario
>
>
>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Bill Hoyne 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 18:50:58 -0700
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?
>>
>> Here is an old photo showing a keel bolt about 6-8” from the mast. Is
>> your’s like this? Is there another bolt under that mast?
>> I am hoping to try to avoid pulling the mast as that opens a whole can of
>> worms of things I should/could do while the mast is down.
>>
>> -bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 121, Issue 90

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

>
> There isn't any bolt under the base of the mast. Just the one aft of it.
>
My mast is out.

Garry Cross
Second Chance
1974 C&C 35 MKII
CBYC, Ontario



> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Bill Hoyne 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 18:50:58 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?
>
> Here is an old photo showing a keel bolt about 6-8” from the mast. Is
> your’s like this? Is there another bolt under that mast?
> I am hoping to try to avoid pulling the mast as that opens a whole can of
> worms of things I should/could do while the mast is down.
>
> -bill
>
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List RE: how to start a new topic

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Some other tips.
Don't reply to a digest without removing irrelevant content.
I read the digests and when someone reply's to one and leaves the entire
digest in the reply it really gets my goat. I usually stop reading and hit
delete.

-- Forwarded message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Cc:
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 18:59:28 +
Subject: Stus-List WAS RE: Boom Furling complications - Yard Service
quality NOW how to start a new topic

Send an email to cnc-list@cnc-list.com with a new topic in the subject line
or reply to an existing email and replace or edit the subject line.

J



Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 53

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Boat's sail in the apparent wind. I don't know how an instrument could
figure out the true wind and direction without knowing the boat speed.


-- Forwarded message --
> From: dwight veinot 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2015 12:48:02 -0300
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
> so my old Raymarine st 60 wind instrument gives me apparent wind speed and
> angle and true wind speed and angle at the push of a button...I figured
> those measurements were close enough to accuarte to be good enough for my
> sailing needs...I don't think boat speed or heading or anything else is
> required...are the newer units different
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 11:22 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> As far as I know if you have AWS and AWA you only need boat speed through
>> the water
>> to get TWS and TWA which is shown by True on the i60 wind.
>>
>> If you want to display the magnetic angle from where the wind is coming
>> from, such as
>> on an old ST50 multidisplay, then you need boat heading which comes from
>> the fluxgate
>> compass ( usually connected to the Autohelm ).
>>
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C&C 30-1
>>
>> Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2015 13:24:55 -0300
>> From: Ken Heaton 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Sorry Fred, I wasn't clear.
>>
>> I was referring to the true wind display on a Raymatine i60 Wind.
>> Raymarine Tech online says it needs a source of heading (and speed
>> through
>> the water which it gets from the i50 Speed already installed) to be able
>> to
>> display true wind?
>>
>> What are possible sources for heading?  Can my old Simrad/Robertson
>> Autopilot provide that info to the i60 with some sort of NMEA 0183 to
>> SeaTalkng converter?
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 36

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I disagree with your point about 8V at the starter solenoid. In a brand new
system with good wiring the only load is the solenoid. When 12V is applied
to it, the voltage drop across it is 12V. If it is not then there is some
other load in series between the source and the solenoid.
On the other side if there was a poor ground you would have 12V on the
input side and some other voltage on the ground side. It is just basic
electricity 101.

When two loads are in series the voltage drop across each will be in
proportion to the ratio of the two resistances. An example would be a
solenoid with 2 ohms resistance and a feed circuit with 1 ohm of
resistance. In this case the drop across 2 ohms is 8V and across the 1 ohm
is 4V.

V/R = I, total resistance is 3 ohms 12/3 = 4 amps.

In this example 1 x 4 + 2 x 4 = 12

Looking at it another way, if you can get 12V across the solenoid it will
draw 6 amps. In the example 4 amps may not be enough to draw the solenoid
contacts together to energize the starter.





-- Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Brass 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 11:17:02 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
>
> David;
>
>
>
> Previous owners, shade tree mechanics, and inexperienced/inexpensive
> mechanics often make repairs or modifications that are ill advised or less
> than optimal. For example, I recently helped one of the boaters on our City
> Docks diagnose why his recently replaced fuel gauge did not seem to work
> reliably. Turned out the guy who replaced the gauge had gotten power from
> the glow plug button – the downstream side of the glow plug button – so the
> fuel gauge was only powered up when the glow plug button was pushed.
>
>
>
> Universals and Westerbekes are designed to be wired and started in the
> manner described in the owner’s manual. I would restore the wiring to what
> is shown in the wiring diagram, for a couple of reasons.
>
>
>
> Regarding the 8V at the starter solenoid terminal: You saw battery voltage
> (about 12.6v) on the hot side of the starter button with the button not
> pushed, 0v on the output side of the starter button with the start button
> not pushed, and then 8v at the solenoid terminal when the button was
> pushed. When you push the button you are energizing the coil of the
> solenoid and creating what is almost a dead short across the solenoid. What
> you were measuring between the solenoid terminal and ground is the voltage
> drop that results from resistance in the coil, resistance in the metal of
> the starter, resistance across the bolts holding the starter in place, and
> resistance in the metal of the block as the current travels from the
> solenoid terminal to the ground wire. 8v is a bit lower than I would
> expect, but I see nothing unusual in such a reading. Your starter and
> solenoid are fine.
>
>
>
> As Neil pointed out, pressing the glow plug button does a lot of things.
>
>
>
> Of course it powers the glow plugs, which are in essence a high resistance
> short in the wiring, and the voltage at the output side of the glow plug
> button will drop into the 11.5v to 12.0 v range. Powering the glow plugs
> heats the air flowing into the combustion chambers, which is needed for a
> cold start and improves starting during hot starts. In indirect injection
> diesels (where fuel is injected into the airflow before the intake valve
> instead of directly into the hot compressed air just before the conclusion
> of the compression stroke) the glow plugs are needed to get good initial
> combustion. Hot air makes the starting easier and faster, reduces the load
> and cranking time on your starter, and ultimately how much current you draw
> from the battery to start the engine.
>
>
>
> The glow plug button also powers the electric lift pump that supplies fuel
> at 4 or 5 PSI (it might be as high as 7 PSI, but I don’t recall exactly)
> through the engine fuel filter to the inlet of the high pressure injection
> pump. That lift pump coming up to pressure is the rapid clicking sound you
> hear for the first few seconds after you push the glow plug button. After
> the engine starts, the pump is powered off the oil pressure switch as Neil
> described.  In a hot start situation without power to the lift pump, the
> high pressure pump will supply fuel to the injectors for a few engine
> rotations. But if the engine does not start the pump will be starved for
> fuel and the engine will not start. Fuel starvation becomes more likely as
> your fuel filters get plugged over time.
>
>
>
> As I said, I’d put the wiring back to what it was supposed to be according
> to the manual and the wiring diagram.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

If your reading 8V at the solenoid input then you are loosing 4V in the
wiring and connections.
This is likely due to bad connection, loose or corroded. Did you measure
the output pin on the button while pressed? Since it won't start with both
buttons pushed it would seem to me the loss is occurring prior to the
buttons and the more current you draw through a bad connection the more
voltage will be lost over that connection.

-- Forwarded message --
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2015 23:15:43 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
> Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will
> not start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into
> shore power.  The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30
> seconds and then while continuing to hold that button in, push the start
> button.  When I do that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the
> glow plug button and push the start button the engine starts fine.  My
> father (retired electrical engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in
> this case but sounds good) spent some time trying to diagnose the problem
> this weekend and found two interesting things:
>
> 1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We
> then tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from
> the battery to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the
> start button is attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring
> diagram in the manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts
> at the solenoid when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.
> So that probably explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter
> won’t work at the same time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the
> solenoid.  I will pull the starter next winter and have someone test it
> unless someone has an alternative suggestion.
>
> 2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power
> from the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from
> the other lead to the start button.  The manual shows that wire running
> from the downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button
> should only be energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual
> describes).  If that were the case, the I would not be able to start the
> engine with only the start button.  Nevertheless, it does start the
> engine.  Tracing the wires, we found that the bridging wire actually came
> from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that either button will work
> independently as both are always powered.  What I don’t understand is why
> you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since that would
> remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in an
> already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO or some yard mechanic made
> that change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how
> other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is actually wired makes more
> sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am missing something.
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
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Stus-List 74 35 MkII Holding tank

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Hi all, I am trying to get my bathroom apart in order to access the stinky
leaking recirculating bladder holding tank I have.
So far I have the vanity sink, counter and cabinet face out.
Does anyone have any experience doing this. The wall is giving me a bit of
a challenge figuring out how to dismantle it.
I found two plugs at the bottom and 4 screws that I removed from inside the
sliding doors. Still tight as a drum.

Thanks.
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