Stus-List Re: Autopilot for 36

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

I have one on my 36.   I can send pictures if you’d like.   


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36-1 CB
Virginia Beach, VA


> On May 22, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Kurt Hoehne via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anybody with a C 36 have experience installing a below-deck autopilot? 
> 
> -- 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 1979 36-1 Cockpit Flexing

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

John,  I’ve done some repairs on my 36-1 in that area and mine is cored with 
plywood.   You may want to take a core sample using a hole saw to see make sure 
the core is intact.   I don’t generally trust moisture meters.An added 
stringer seems to be a good idea to me.   While you are at it you may want to 
look at the tabbing for you backstay chain plate to make sure it is not 
failing.   

Mike Brannon
1978 C 36-1 CB. 
93295
Virginia Beach, VA 



> 
> On Tue, Jan 3, 2023 at 11:58 AM John McCrea via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On the port side of my cockpit, I get a decent amount of flexing when I walk 
>> on it. In the area between the bilge locker and propane locker. I borrowed a 
>> moisture meter from a surveyor friend, and it is dry. Also, no crazing or 
>> anything of that nature. I am wondering if I have some delamination on 
>> either side and will tap with a hammer to see if that is the case. Was also 
>> thinking that maybe by adding a glassed in stringer underneath the cockpit 
>> that it might help provide some strength. Anyone have a similar issue in the 
>> past? Thanks, and Happy 2023.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John McCrea
>> 
>> Talisman
>> 
>> 1979 36-1
>> 
>> Mystic, CT
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Photo for anchor locker door for C 36

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

I’ll be by my boat today or tomorrow and can get you some pictures.   

Sail safe, 

Mike Brannon
1978 C 36-1 CB
VIRGINIA BEACH, VA

> On Jan 3, 2023, at 2:30 PM, Via via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I have a missing anchor locker door on my 1978 C 36-1 and hoping someone 
> can provide a picture of theirs.
> 
> I am going to glass my own and want to make it as original looking as 
> possible i.e., shape, hardware, etc…
> 
> Thanks in advanced
> 
> Via Bialkowski
> 
> “Wind Dancer” ‘78 36-1
> 
> Oriental, NC
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: East coast boat yards?

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

I use COBB’S Marina in Norfolk VA.   It is family owned,  well kept and they 
can do work themselves.   It is also easy access to the Chesapeake Bay and 
Atlantic.   

Mike Brannon
1978 C 36 CB, VIRGINIA LEE 93295
Norfolk, VA

> On Jan 2, 2023, at 5:16 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Contemplating my next boat and have realized that sailing is best enjoyed in 
> a place that isn’t frozen.  Am looking to purchase a boat - likely in the 
> Caribbean, with the intention of cruising farther afield in 2-3 years.  The 
> border services (taxation)  folks in my beautiful native Canada are most 
> willing to share in the adventure by charging an exorbitant stack o’taxes and 
> duties should said boat arrive for importation in Canada to enjoy a 4 month 
> sailing season or two.   As a Canadian citizen I cannot not import it, not 
> easily anyway. 
> So - we go away and we stay away, and we refit in the USA.
> Can anyone recommend a yard in the south east that is reasonable and decent 
> to deal with?  I have been told that if Florida then north of Jupiter.  
> Anyone have any other thoughts or experience on the subject?
> 
> Many thanks all.  
> 
> Dave 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

Years ago I saw this set recommended in a magazine.   It is my go to set and I 
always have one on the boat:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-and-3-8-in-Stubby-Ratchet-and-Socket-Set-46-Piece-H46PCSTS/300117122
 

 .   Additionally I have one these on my person when sailing:   
https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Crucial-Black-Engraved-Multi-Tool/dp/B0976CT8PV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34T83F6YMSZI3=gerber+crucial+multitool=1668082293=gerber+crucial%2Caps%2C78=8-3
 



Mike, 

Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB MKI
Virginia Beach, VA

> I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first boat 
> and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I wonder if 
> anyone ever put together a list of hand tools to be kept on the boat that I 
> could share with him.
> 
>  
> 
> I also need to remove some unnecessary tools as the bag has gotten heavier 
> over time.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Chuck S
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 

Stus-List Re: anyone try this chafe guard?

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

I was told by a customer this week that it does not hold up very well.   
Nevertheless it looks like something that is worth trying.  

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee - 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

> On Sep 12, 2022, at 4:09 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need 3 chafe guards, what I did was measure the radius it was going on and 
> bought some SS tubing to fit that radius.
> Then cut it longitudinally in quarters and cleaned  the edges up, & buffed it 
> out. Going to stick it on with 5200,  Just another thought. I think for the 
> anchor, I will glue a piece of urethane where the chain rubs. Chain can make 
> a mess of SS.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
> 
> On Thu, Sep 8, 2022 at 12:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> https://www.nowearguard.com/ 
>  
> 
> It sure looks nice. I am tempted to use it on the bow where the anchor tends 
> to hit the boat.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> 
> Kent Island MD USA
> 
>  
> 

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

I used to use a cow hitch for STA-SET type of sheets on a Genoa.   For my high 
tech sheets I splice an eye in the sheet and use a soft shackle to attach it to 
the sail. 

> On Jun 17, 2022, at 9:28 AM, Josh via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Your experience sounds exactly the same as mine.  The use of the Alpine 
> Butterfly has similar physics but allows for the use of a soft shackle which 
> makes changing the headsail a possibility. 
> 
> Josh 
> 
> Jun 17, 2022 09:08:24 Nathan Post via CnC-List :
> 
> I found that the luggage tag approach (attached at the middle of a long 
> continuous sheet) works well for me.  Of course that is only helpful if you 
> don't do headsail changes frequently or at all.  If you have eye splices in 
> your sheets you could try luggage tagging each of them to the clew if the 
> grommet in the sail is large enough to do that.
> 
> Nathan
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jun 17, 2022 at 8:46 AM Matthew via CnC-List  > wrote: 
> Thanks, Josh.  The photo shows a soft shackle tied to a genny sheet with a 
> bowline (or what appears to be a bowline).  How does this configuration solve 
> the problem of the bowline getting hung up on stays when tacking a 150 genny?
> 
>  
> 
> From: Josh via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2022 1:44 AM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Josh mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
> 
>  
> 
> https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/
>  
> 
>  
> 
> The alpine butterfly is the single best improvement for me. 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1980 C 37+ 
> Solomons, MD
> 
>  
> 
> Jun 16, 2022 13:32:30 David Knecht via CnC-List  >:
> 
> What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment 
> from catching on the shrouds during a tack?  I use a dyneema soft shackle to 
> attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over 
> knots.  Thanks- Dave
> 
>  
> 
> S/V Aries
> 
> 1990 C 34+
> 
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 

Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

Sort of.   I sailed my own boat for 30 years before I replaced the rod rigging. 
  I still have the original backstay which I re-headed.   The cost of doing an 
inspection on rod is prohibitively expensive.   In my opinion it is more cost 
effective to replace it rather than pay to have it inspected.In general it 
is best ro replace all  rigging at the 15-20 year mark depending on where and 
how the boat was sailed.   The local USCG Marine inspectors want rod rigging at 
the 10 year mark for commercial boats.   Were I in Brian’s shoes I’d buy the 
boat and sail it for a season or two and then decide what to do with it.   

Just my opinion.

Sail safe, 

Mike 

Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA 

> On Apr 18, 2022, at 9:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> So basically any boat with rod rigging older than 2002 would need all new 
> standing rigging?
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 9:36 AM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: MICHAEL BRANNON mailto:ff1...@aol.com>>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - 
> Herrington Harbor, area Riggers
>  
> As a rigger I would go with Charlie Nelson’s recommendation.   To do a 
> thought inspection of rod rigging it needs to be completely disassembles and 
> the cold head looked at closely and possible NDT’d to ensure there are no 
> cracks.   At almost 20 years old you most likely need to replace it.
> Rather than sending the rigging to BSI, or other places,   we measure it and 
> have new rigging made to our dimensions.It saves you a little money.   
>  
> Just a thought 
>  
> Mike Brannon 
> Virginia Lee 93295
> 1978 C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>  
>  
> 
> 
> On Apr 17, 2022, at 2:43 PM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> We recently looked at a boat on the Chesapeake which would need some deck 
> balsa replacement work and a rigging inspection and possibly replacement of 
> some / all (?) of the rod rigging.  
>  
> Osprey Composites at Herrington Harbor / Tracy’s Landing was recommended.  
> Anybody have any information / opinion on them? 
>  
> The boat has 19 year old rod rigging and do not have firm information on the 
> last time a rigging inspection was made – probably not in the past 11 - 12 
> years when the current owner purchased the boat.  Can anyone recommend a good 
> rigger who could do an inspection in the West River to Herrington Harbor 
> vicinity?  The ability to inspect, and possibly fabricate new rod rigging is 
> needed.  “The Rigging Company” is one name that keeps coming up.  Another is 
> M Yacht Services rigging. Both seem to be on the higher end of the pricing 
> spectrum.  Eastcoast Marine Rigging was another name, but am not certain if 
> they have the capability / experience to fab new rod rigging.  Am not looking 
> to change to wire.  Any opinions / suggestions on these two ? 
>  
> Many thanks,
> Brian

Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

As a rigger I would go with Charlie Nelson’s recommendation.   To do a thought 
inspection of rod rigging it needs to be completely disassembles and the cold 
head looked at closely and possible NDT’d to ensure there are no cracks.   At 
almost 20 years old you most likely need to replace it.Rather than sending 
the rigging to BSI, or other places,   we measure it and have new rigging made 
to our dimensions.It saves you a little money.   

Just a thought 

Mike Brannon 
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Apr 17, 2022, at 2:43 PM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We recently looked at a boat on the Chesapeake which would need some deck 
> balsa replacement work and a rigging inspection and possibly replacement of 
> some / all (?) of the rod rigging.  
>  
> Osprey Composites at Herrington Harbor / Tracy’s Landing was recommended.  
> Anybody have any information / opinion on them? 
>  
> The boat has 19 year old rod rigging and do not have firm information on the 
> last time a rigging inspection was made – probably not in the past 11 - 12 
> years when the current owner purchased the boat.  Can anyone recommend a good 
> rigger who could do an inspection in the West River to Herrington Harbor 
> vicinity?  The ability to inspect, and possibly fabricate new rod rigging is 
> needed.  “The Rigging Company” is one name that keeps coming up.  Another is 
> M Yacht Services rigging. Both seem to be on the higher end of the pricing 
> spectrum.  Eastcoast Marine Rigging was another name, but am not certain if 
> they have the capability / experience to fab new rod rigging.  Am not looking 
> to change to wire.  Any opinions / suggestions on these two ? 
>  
> Many thanks,
> Brian

Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

When I bought my electronic signaling device a red distress flag for daytime 
use came with it.



> On Mar 29, 2022, at 5:11 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Korbey, 
> I'm no expert but I believe the electronic signaling device qualifies for 
> night, but does not meet the daytime requirement for three devices. Found 
> this:   http://www.uscgaux-ocnj.org/checklst.html 
> 
> 
> C

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

John,  I’ve owned my 36-1 since 1997.   I’ve yet to make the chainplates quit 
leaking but I’ve certainly reduced the amount.   First,  I doubt that the balsa 
around your chainplates is sealed.  Mine wasn’t.  I had to replace core 
material on the starboard side.   Second.  Those aluminum trim pieces are flush 
to the deck.  I raised mine about 3?16” and that is what made the difference.   
Lastly,   Like everything else above the waterline I used butyl as the sealant. 
  It remains flexible and easy to remove.   My advise is to ask the butyl from 
both sides of the deck.  Install the trim plates and see if it is sealed?   

Cheer, and best of luck.  

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

PS,  mine need to be done again this year.   


> On Mar 21, 2022, at 5:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> John,
>  
> Many would suggest 3M 4200, but silicone has issues. I swear by butyl tape 
> (it never hardens out completely and it is very flexible). The best source is 
> Maine Sail (Compass Marine https://marinehowto.com/ 
> ), though, I am not sure if he still sells this 
> stuff (he had a bad hard attack last year).
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: John McCrea via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2022 4:28 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net 
> Subject: Stus-List Chainplate Sealing.
>  
> Hello. I have a leak on my port side chainplate that needs addressing. I 
> pulled both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainless rod on 
> starboard that holds the two chainplates pieces together. One on port is 
> missing. Maybe that is causing excess movement and more adapt to leak? The 
> covers are original and thin 1/16 aluminum. I am getting them beefed up to 
> 1/8 stainless.
>  
> Looks like the PO had only sealed them with clear silicone. So that will all 
> be dug out. I am also inspecting the hull tabbing below with the chainplates 
> etc to ensure that I do not have any issues there. What is the best sealant 
> to use when installing the new cover plates? Thanks!
>  
> Regards,
>  
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> 1979 36-1
> Mystic, CT

Stus-List Re: Main Halyard Lower Sheave Box on the 36-1.

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

I have re routed my main halyard so it exits the mast on the starboard side and 
leads aft.   I have also replaced the sheaves on the other mast exists.   It 
has to be done by someone who can weld stainless.   When the welds are broken 
the exit box so changes shape so it is best to use a means of holding the shape 
when you remove the pins.   


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36-1 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Nov 15, 2021, at 5:57 PM, John McCrea via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello. Two years ago, I swapped out the rope to wire halyards on Talisman and 
> replaced the mast sheaves at the top of the mast. All working great except 
> the main halyard. It tends to bind up the last few feet and on the 36-1 there 
> is a bottom exit centerline sheave box where the main halyard exits just 
> above the deck. Since it was designed to handle wire I am assuming this may 
> be the culprit. I pulled it yesterday and it is a complete welded unit so you 
> can not easily replace the sheave like the masthead. Has anyone replaced this 
> and any advice? Thanks!
>  
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> 1979 36-1
> Mystic, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 25 mast fittings

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

You really need to disassemble the rigging and measure the fittings to ensure 
you get the correct size T-Ball fittings and that they fit into the backing 
plates.   On most boats I re-rig I don’t order parts until I have disassembled 
the rigging and know exactly what I  need.   If you are going to do it yourself 
I’d recommend that you use either Sta-Lok  or Hayn Hi-Mod fittings.  

Mike 

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Aug 23, 2021, at 6:58 PM, Stephen Kidd via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> We are planning to replace our standing rigging this fall and I'm trying to 
> figure out what type of upper fitting is needed for the shrouds. The owner's 
> manual (1980 C 25 mkII) simply says "T-ball" for the forestay and 
> upper/lower shrouds. Looking around, it appears there are a number of 
> variants out there. 
> 
> Assuming that T-ball and T-bar are the same in this case (please correct me 
> if I'm wrong on this point), I'm thinking they would be of the "old style" 
> since it is a 1980 model. Does anyone happen to know what sort of fittings 
> we'll need for the upper ends? We'll be ordering (local riggers seem to be 
> unavailable and the only estimate I got was $6,000), which leaves us on the 
> hook for figuring out the details. 
> 
> We're planning on sending a GoPro up to take some pictures and look around at 
> things later this week, but we really don't know what to look for (any 
> identifying characteristics?). Step ladders make me nervous, so I'm happy to 
> let the camera make the first ascent. 
> 
> Thank You!
> Stephen Kidd
> C 25 - Sweet Chariot
> Washington DC
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Standing rigging replacement

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

You may want to consider getting an estimate using deform or even 1X19 wire vs 
rod and see what that comes to.Just a thought.   

Mike 

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Jun 23, 2021, at 8:23 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Seems a worthy investment.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2021 6:38:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement
>  
> Hey everyone--especially those on this list whose boats are approaching 'old 
> age!'
> 
> My 1995 C 36 XL/kcb is now 26 years old and has been in brackish water for 
> her entire life--which has been either at the dock or club racing in the NC 
> sounds where the air is mostly light and the heat is often oppressive. I am 
> faced with a decision on what, if anything, to do about her standing rigging, 
> which is all original rod except for the forestay which was replaced with 
> wire when I snapped the rod during a racing adventure--the headsail was 
> furled at the time so the rig did not come down!
> 
> A local, seemingly knowledgeable rigger, has recommend that all the standing 
> rigging be replaced after he did a rig inspection a few weeks ago. (He 
> aborted an attempt at tuning the rig when he realized that the threads on one 
> of the turn-buckles were disintegrating during his adjustments.) The cost to 
> replace with rod per his estimate is ~ $7500 plus some yard fees to un-step 
> and re-step the mast so I am looking at about $8k for the job, without 
> replacing some mast hardware (Tides track, steaming light, radio cable and 
> antenna, etc.) while the mast is down.
> 
> I realize that after 26 years, the rigging might need attention, that is why 
> I had him do the inspection. OTOH, I also understand that it is in his own 
> self-interest to replace the rig. The rod will be done in Rhode Island but he 
> will be doing all the other stuff. The old joke '...if the only tool you have 
> is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail..' comes to mind. I am also a 
> firm believer in the saying 'tools not rules...' so I am reluctant to 
> just replace something because of a 'recommendation' based on what often is 
> more tradition than fact.
> 
> Since many on the list have boats even older than mine, I am curious what the 
> list has to say about rod rigging replacement versus age, intended use and 
> cruising/racing waters involved. Of course I'd prefer the rig not come down 
> around my ears, even in the NC sounds, but I have no plans to take her 
> off-shore, except for possible short hops to deliver her to racing venues 
> (CRW). OTOH, the boat bucks involved are probably about 20% of the boat's 
> current value which I will unlikely recover when I sell her, new rigging or 
> not.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Interior 'walls'

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

Way back in NAVY bootcamp they taught us to call it the overhead.   There are 
also decks and bulkheads.   The USN spin on things. 
Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Jan 24, 2021, at 1:22 PM, dukatolla--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Charlie
> 
> The correct term is "deckhead".
> 
> According to Hoyle (A Blokee for Britain..: )
> 
> Cheers
> 
> SunnyJ
> 1970 C
> 
> On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 12:49:33 p.m. EST, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I think the correct nautical term is 'ceiling" but here is my issue.
> 
> My 1995 C cabin walls (interior) are covered behind the cabinetry or in the 
> cubbies with what looks like teak or teak looking plywood pieces ~ 1/8-1/4" 
> thick which have grooves cut in them about 1 7/8" apart running fore and 
> aft.. It looks like these are held in place with bung covered screws onto to 
> stringers at the top and bottom of the this teak/plywood. 
> 
> I am trying to find a source of this grooved wood to replace some in my 
> forward cabin that was destroyed by a water leak.
> 
> So far I have had no luck on the internet but I may need to search deeper 
> before I give up and have some replacement panels made--I only need about a 
> piece about 1' x 2' with the grooves running with the 2' sides.
> 
> Is this stuff likely available somewhere (maybe in Canada?) or did C make 
> these panels in house?
> 
> Thanks in advance--
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rachet block for Harken furler

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

I find the ratchet more useful when furling the sail.   Just a thought.   


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Jan 4, 2021, at 11:58 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was out sailing Saturday and as I haven’t got around to buying a new rachet 
> block yet, I bypassed it and just grabbed the furling line as it exited the 
> next most forward block.
> I have to say it worked quite well and I am not sure I need a rachet block. I 
> think the whole reason for it is to prevent the jib from unfurling too fast. 
> I never ever just let it go, so maybe this is something I can do without? I 
> have plenty of regular blocks sitting around.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina 
> C 35 MK I Kent Island MD USA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Emergency TIller

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

John,  Did you try South Shore Yachts?   If you can’t find one let me know and 
I’ll get an estimate to have one made.  

Happy New Year,


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Dec 31, 2020, at 11:06 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all. I need an emergency tiller for my 1979 36-1. My bot did not come 
> with one. I have access to one from a club members 36-1 that I can get 
> replicated but it will be pricey. Does anyone have an extra or know of a 
> source that has the casting for the rudder fitting? Thanks!
>  
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> 1979 36-1 Hull 113
> Mystic, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Life Seal issue

[MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List]

Matt,  try working it loose with a wide drywall knife and hammer.   That is how 
I remove things that don’t want to let go before going to full destruction 
mode.Butyl is the best thing to bed  topside fitting with.   


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Oct 18, 2020, at 4:49 PM, Matthew  wrote:
> 
> Listers:
>  
> I know at least some of you use Life Seal, and I’m looking 
> for some insight.  This past spring I used Life Seal to bed an aluminum winch 
> base to my nonskid gelcoat cabin top.  I now need to remove it to access a 
> couple bolts (g), and the Life Seal does not want to let go.  Any tricks 
> of the trade?
>  
> Matt
> C 42 Custom
>  
> Matthew L. Wolford 
> 638 West Sixth Street 
> Erie, PA 16507 
> (814) 459-9600 (Office) 
> (814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
> (814) 392-5599 (Cell) 
> 
> The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended 
> for the personal and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This 
> communication may be an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, 
> or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under 
> applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized agent, 
> you are hereby notified that you have received this communication in error, 
> and that any review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or 
> reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If you believe this 
> communication was sent to you in error, do not read it. Please reply to the 
> sender that you received the note in error and delete it. Thank you.
> 
> Please consider the environment before printing this note.
>  
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I have a 42 year old back stay.   It was reheaded about 14 years ago.   

As for the roller furler,  I recommend securing the drum.   Most drums have a 
provision for running a line from the drum to the toe rail which is more secure 
than relying on the furling line.   

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Sep 9, 2020, at 9:31 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Richard:
>  
> Echoing what others have said, I can’t imagine insurers 
> require rog rigging to be replaced every 10 years – wire, maybe; but not rod. 
>  That said, the heads are the weak link (particularly the older Navtec 
> design).  When I bought my 34, I had a local metal shop inspect the rod and 
> the heads.  They used a dye of some sort, then a microscope or something.  My 
> boat was about 20 years old at the time, and no defects were found.  I ended 
> up replacing the stays because my kids left the roller furler line uncleated 
> (they liked to play with the winches when they were little), and a genny 
> sheet ripped the starboard lower out of the mast during a wind storm.  I 
> decided to replace all the side stays while I was at it.  When I sold the 
> boat (about 10 years ago), the rod backstay was original.
>  
> P.S.  Never leave the boat without checking the roller furler line.
>  
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Richard Bayle via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2020 7:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Richard Bayle mailto:richard.ba...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32
>  
> Good evening ladies and gentlemen,  
> I am a brand new member of this forum living in Guadeloupe.  I am unable to 
> complete my profile as the drop down menu for countries doesn't include 
> France or Guadeloupe.  I can understand no Guadeloupe as technically it isn't 
> a country but leaving out France, surely some mistake!
> I have turned up as I am seriously considering a 32 currently in Martinique 
> and I wonder if I could get any tips on what to look out for.
> I have visited the boat and she appears very well sorted, Nice clean hull and 
> new Copper Coat antifoul, last year.
> The boat was seized by French customs looking for drugs and they ripped out 
> anything and everything that might be concealing a hiding place.  The current 
> owner acquired it from them and began to restore her but his life has changed 
> and he has to return to France hence the proposed sale to me.
> I am assuming I have to replace the rigging; it is more than 10 years old, 
> and insurers here insist on renewing the rig every 10 years.  I could insure 
> it just for third party protection but I prefer the hurricane cover.
> Given that this is my third boat and I've been around for a while now, I was 
> looking for anything specific to the C & C which is a new name to me, so any 
> help there would be gratefully received
>  
> Richard
>  
> www.richardbayle.com 
> +590690744907
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Chandler,   I replaced my 3QM30 about 10 years ago with a 3YM30.   I don’t 
think that I’d attempt a change to an all electric set up at this point.   
Stick with what has worked reliably in the past.  

Sail safe, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Aug 10, 2020, at 5:46 PM, Bailey White via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> hi Chandler,
> 
> I have the same boat and very much enjoy it.  It sails very well and the main 
> salon is a great size for this length of boat.  I sail in mostly light air, 
> so I'm glad to have a boat that is somewhat powered up and mine has three 
> speed winches which make the big genoa easy to trim.
> 
> My boat has an atomic four, and I've thought about changing it as it has 
> needed a little work over the last year.  My feeling is that electric is 
> intriguing for all the reasons you mention but expensive and limiting in 
> range.  On our local lake, the range issue isn't that big.  On the east coast 
> where you can sail extensive distances or need the capability to ride out 
> large storms, range is a bigger issue.  
> 
> If I had to change this year, I would pick a used diesel for cost, range, and 
> resale reasons.  I think we will mostly see electric / hybrid systems on high 
> end new boats and eventually trickle down to boats like ours.  There are 
> already exceptions like the Sailing Uma folks who have time and eventually 
> sponsorship to retrofit electric to older boats now.  
> 
> In addition, COVID-19 has brought a lot of demand for boat maintenance and 
> repair work as people have the time to enjoy the water in areas I know of.  
> Getting a large project complete may take longer and cost more this year.  
> Hopefully you can find a way to get the diesel going and enjoy the rest of 
> the season.
> 
> Bailey White
> C 36
> Atlanta, GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Replacement mast for C 1973 MK1 Redwing 35

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

These are a little short but you should be able to put two of them together to 
make the correct length.   brand-new-tartan-10-mast-sections 

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Jul 28, 2020, at 8:54 AM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> My mast, alas, has been irreparably damaged where it connects to the spreader 
> and needs to be replaced.  A new one is very expensive, so I thought I would 
> see if anyone in the US Northeast/mid-atlantic area has one the I might be 
> able to purchase.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Left handed drill bits work well on this type of problem.  

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Jun 1, 2020, at 9:21 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I want to remove a stanchion but the SS screw in the toe rail into the 
> stanchion is seized .I have applied PB Blaster, 50% ATF - 50% 
> Acetonetied putting a Philips head driver and hammering it to break the 
> bond, no luck.
> 
> Scared to try torch heat because of the proximity to the hull and do not have 
> an impact driver but may get one.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this?
> 
> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I’ve been using the 3M version 
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Weatherban-Ribbon-Sealant-PF5423/?N=5002385+3293241535=3293786499=rud
 

 .  I replaced my genoa tracks 11 years ago and used this.   No leaks thus far. 
  


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On May 22, 2020, at 8:57 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have not tried the "Bed it" brand recommended by others, but I will when I 
> find some. The stuff sold by Westmarine is useable but not the same quality 
> as that used on our boats originally. Forget about the Homedepot stuff, tried 
> that as well. 
> 
> I left a roll of butyl tape in the boat in a cupboard under the side deck and 
> the heat from the sun melted it so that it does not release from the paper. 
> Makes it a PITA to use when that happens. Store it in a more or less cool 
> place. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> C  
> 
>  cscheaffer via CnC-List  wrote: 
> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this 
> is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C 
> during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  
> Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 
> Galaxy smartphone
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

James,   there is no reason why you cannot do your own.   Before going out and 
purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas around 
them.   Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a corrosion 
line or will snag your fingernail.  If you see one then you can do the dye 
penetrant test but at that point I’d consider replacing the rigging or 
re-heading the rod. You can also polish the area using very fine sandpaper 
(1500 grit) to see if the indication goes away.   Here is a link to some things 
I’ve seen doing rigging inspections on boats with rod:   
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7ycMmiwJSTB8CcH7 .

We don’t do that many inspections on rod rigging but the number of problems 
actually found is generally less than what is seen on boats with wire.  I am a 
professional rigger in the Norfolk VA area with Performance Rigging.  

I hope that this helps.


Mike Brannon 
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
> repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at 
> the same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the 
> broader C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 
> 
> I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
> inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a 
> layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company 
> up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the 
> existing.  
> 
> James Bibb
> 
> 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C-34

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I moved my traveler to the bridge deck as there didn’t seem to be a good way to 
move it further aft.   The main trims much better now than it did when the 
traveller was on the coach top.


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On May 13, 2020, at 10:23 PM, Pamela & David via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello
> 
> Has any one moved the mainsheet traveler from the cabin top to just in front 
> the wheel?  When sailing wife the wife I find adjustments to the main 
> difficult at times.  Have tried playing with the traveler but the sheet 
> tension is the problems.
> Any thoughts
> 
> David
> MUDPUDDLE ( Whitby)
> 
>  
> 
>  Virus-free. www.avg.com 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Keel Smile.

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

John,   I fixed the smile on my 36 back on 2007.   I used biaxial cloth and 
vinylester for the repair.  I also went 6 inches on either side of the keel 
joint.As of last year there is no sign of a smile returningI also had a 
spot like your picture shows.   It was simply a bad spot where water had 
accumulated from the smile.  


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Apr 14, 2020, at 9:59 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> All,
>  
> I am in the process of fixing the smile on our 1979 36. We are going into 
> season three of ownership and this has been on my list since day one. (I did 
> this job before on my past 1989 37XL in 2005 but had the yard do it.) I have 
> talked to several friends that have done it or had it done but wanted to ask 
> the list if anyone has any input that I can learn from. One item of concern, 
> is that I did spring a little leak when grinding (pictured above) I have some 
> simple green and antifreeze in bilge and will pump dry. 
>  
> Here is my plan:
>  
> Ground down to glass and bare lead approx. 3 to 4 inches on each side of the 
> keel joint.
> Tighten Keelbolts to required torque (per owners site 1 inch keel bolts= 350 
> ft lbs)
> Wet out area with epoxy and band with cloth (How thick?)
> Sand out new glass and fair.
> Apply barrier coat and then bottom paint.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> Mystic, CT
>>  
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

This is great information.   Thanks for providing it.   

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Apr 10, 2020, at 9:50 AM, Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all,
> 
> Back in the mid 1980s I briefly ran the rigging shop at Hinterhoeller Yachts 
> where l learned a nice way to permanently secure conduit inside Nonsuch 
> masts. I used the technique very successfully on my C 30 about 26 years ago 
> and it’s solid as a rock. Forgive me if I’m repeating what may have been 
> posted in the past, but I only joined the list in the past year. Pictures and 
> diagrams would make this easier to describe this whole routine, but I don’t 
> have any so here we go…
> 
> Glue sections of appropriately sized conduit (about 1” I.D.) together 
> basically for the full length of the spar - between the upper and lower wire 
> exit holes. About every five feet over the whole length, drill about 1/2” 
> holes through one side of the tube and about 5/32" holes through the other 
> wall, directly in line. Thread 3/16” x 1.5" round head SS machine screws 
> through the conduit so the studs protrude out of the tube (the heads are 
> inside the tube - that’s why you need the 1/2” holes to be able to access and 
> screw them from the inside out). You need conduit that is at least 1/8" thick 
> so that the studs will hold well enough when threaded in place. Lay the 
> conduit on the outside of the mast where you want it (mine is off centre on 
> the leading edge), tape it in place and mark (exactly) the location of each 
> of the studs, making sure that you add adequate-sized holes for any 
> mid-height exits for accessories (bow, deck, spreader, steaming, radar, 
> wifi). Make sure to use grommets for these mast holes. Snap a chalk line on 
> the outside of the spar to make sure the holes you are about to drill in your 
> precious spar are nicely lined up. NO MISTAKES! Feed the tracer lines for 
> pulling wires and spare line(s) using a separate tracer line for each exit. 
> You may want to feed the lines at the beginning of the process, before gluing 
> the conduit together if you don’t have a long enough pole or other clever way 
> of feeding line. The holes you drill in the spar need to be somewhat 
> oversized (say 1/4”) so that the studs will fall through easily. Push the 
> conduit into the mast to the correct location, pull the tracer lines through 
> the exit holes and tie the ends off. Then wiggle and maneuver the whole works 
> until the studs fall through the holes, using gravity to advantage. Make sure 
> that tracer lines aren’t pinched or caught before you add the nuts and 
> tighten the tube down. Using SS nylock nuts. Use a vice grip to lightly hold 
> the studs at the mast surface so you can get the nuts started until you have 
> about a half inch of stud on the other side of the nut, then switch the vice 
> grip to the end of the stud and crank the nut tight (within reason). Now you 
> can pull your wires/cables/spare lines using your tracers.
> 
> Have fun and sleep well when rolling at anchor.
> 
> Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
> C 30 #9, Gloucester, MA
> C 39 #59, Hamilton, ON
> 
> 
>> On Apr 9, 2020, at 4:55 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> David, Yes.  The mast on my 37+ from Offshore Spars came with a conduit of 
>> sorts already installed.  It was black poly tubing riveted to the forward 
>> inside face of the mast.  During the mast rebuild the yard suggested 
>> upgrading to pvc since it would be a little more robust.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Apr 9, 2020, 07:31 David Risch via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> So let me understand this...folks have installed conduit for the length of 
>> the mast inside the mast...?  Thought of that but abandoned due to 
>> complexity or did I overthink?
>> 
>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>> 
>> From: CnC-List > > on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
>> CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2020 11:22:38 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Shawn Wright mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast
>>  
>> I used CL200 for our irrigation system, as it was about half the price of 
>> CSA/UL approved schedule 40. It is definitely thinner, which in this case is 
>> a bonus. For water pipes, not so much, but I have >1000' in the ground and 
>> no leaks after the 10 years, except for those pipes I've hit with something. 
>> In my experience, schedule 40 has much higher strength and impact 
>> resistance, and schedule 80 even more so, but it's not an issue inside the 
>> mast. For making a support for a winter cover, I'd use sched 40.
>> 
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com 

Re: Stus-List Halyard problem

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I do not have a halyard restrainer but I do need one.   It is in my chart table 
waiting to be put on.  Having said that I generally do not use my roller furler 
as I primarily race the my boat. 

 FYI,  Harken recommends the following to prevent halyard wrap: 
1. Halyard swivel should be within top 4–6" (100–152 mm) of foil unless a 
halyard restrainer is used.

2. Halyard must pull slightly to rear (8–10°).

3. Halyard must be snug, but not too tight.

As a note I am a rigger and while both the Harken and the Schaefer restrainers 
seem to work equally well I prefer the Harken as it has a sheave and should 
reduce wear on the halyard.


Sail Safe, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1979 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Apr 9, 2020, at 10:43 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Francois emailed me off list to say that with the same rig, he has no halyard 
> restrainer and has never had a problem with halyard wrap.  So I am 
> considering removing the restrainer.  This is surely to some extent rig 
> specific, but I am wondering 
> 
> 1.  how many people have them and how many don’t
> 2.  If without, have you had halyard wrap problems?
> 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Exit plate for a '76 C 24?

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Yes,   Vela Sail did have them on the web page when I did the cut and paste.   
Not sure what happened.  
Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Mar 29, 2020, at 5:44 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You mean like this:
> https://www.deckhardware.com.au/halyard-exit-plate 
> <https://www.deckhardware.com.au/halyard-exit-plate>
> 
> 
>  Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C 30
>    Armdale Y.C.
> On 3/29/2020 2:16 PM, Michael Brannon via CnC-List wrote:
>> Try Vela Sail.   
>> https://www.velasailingsupply.com/allen-brothers-halyard-exit-plate-116mm/Mikel
>>  
>> <https://www.velasailingsupply.com/allen-brothers-halyard-exit-plate-116mm/Mikel>
>>  Brannon
>> Virginia Lee 93295
>> C 36 CB
>> Virginia Beach, VA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 28, 2020, at 5:27 PM, Eugene Cormier via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Folks, just wondering if any of you might know where to source an exit 
>>> plate for a C 24
>>> from the mid-70s?
>>> 
>>> here's a pic of the starboard side of the mast with the exit plate:
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZcB7Dc4p9fJEF2JN6 
>>> <https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZcB7Dc4p9fJEF2JN6>
>>> 
>>> here's a pic of the port side with the missing exit plate and a ruler for 
>>> sizing:
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7Njr6eLr6EebviX7 
>>> <https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7Njr6eLr6EebviX7>
>>> 
>>> Thanks for any help and keep safe, 
>>> Eugene
>>> 
>>> Eugene Cormier
>>> Assistant Head of Music
>>> Full-time Instructor
>>> Acadia University
>>> www.eugenecormier.com 
>>> eugenecorm...@gmail.com <mailto:eugenecorm...@gmail.com>
>>> Office: Denton Hall Rm.235
>>> Office Hours:
>>> Phone: (902) 585-1329
>>> 
>>> ---
>>> Statement of Confidentiality
>>> This message (including attachments) may contain confidential or
>>> privileged information intended for a specific individual or
>>> organization. If you have received this communication in error, please
>>> notify the sender immediately. If you are not the intended recipient,
>>> you are not authorized to use, disclose, distribute, copy, print or rely
>>> on this email, and should promptly delete this email from your entire
>>> computer system.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 
> 
>  
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Exit plate for a '76 C 24?

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Try Vela Sail.   
https://www.velasailingsupply.com/allen-brothers-halyard-exit-plate-116mm/Mikel 
Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Mar 28, 2020, at 5:27 PM, Eugene Cormier via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks, just wondering if any of you might know where to source an exit 
> plate for a C 24
> from the mid-70s?
> 
> here's a pic of the starboard side of the mast with the exit plate:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZcB7Dc4p9fJEF2JN6 
> 
> 
> here's a pic of the port side with the missing exit plate and a ruler for 
> sizing:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7Njr6eLr6EebviX7 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help and keep safe, 
> Eugene
> 
> 
> Eugene Cormier
> Assistant Head of Music
> Full-time Instructor
> Acadia University
> www.eugenecormier.com 
> eugenecorm...@gmail.com 
> Office: Denton Hall Rm.235
> Office Hours:
> Phone: (902) 585-1329
> 
> ---
> Statement of Confidentiality
> This message (including attachments) may contain confidential or
> privileged information intended for a specific individual or
> organization. If you have received this communication in error, please
> notify the sender immediately. If you are not the intended recipient,
> you are not authorized to use, disclose, distribute, copy, print or rely
> on this email, and should promptly delete this email from your entire
> computer system.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Masthead Sheave Lubrication

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Tim,  I don’t have any drawings but I own a 78 36-1.   I took my sheaves off 
about 10 years ago and if I remember correctly a single pin is used for both 
sheaves.   If you can put a piece of wire or twine around the sheave to hold it 
in place you can safely remove the pin and pull the sheaves out.   I can’t 
remember if mine had bronze inserts or not but I’ll be finding out soon as mine 
are starting to make noise also.  It is very likely that the sheaves will need 
to be replaced at this point in the boat’s life. 



Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Mar 25, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Please share drawings or experience with halyard screeching and/or 
> lubricating masthead sheaves on C 36-1 or similar.
> 
> Main halyard sheave at the masthead makes a heck of noise when hoisting, I 
> mean really, it broadcasts a horrific screech to the entire basin as we 
> raised the main. 
> 
> Sounds like a giant dull and unlubricated drill bit drilling into stainless 
> steel. Slowly. In fits and starts. You probably know the sound, almost every 
> marina has one, I just wish it wasn't us.
> 
> Recently went up there to retrieve a spin halyard and it seems that the 
> sheave spins freely. It looks to be about 1/2" X 3". Anyway, while there used 
> the edge of a popsicle stick to press in a fair amount of Superlube(R) 
> synthetic grease  and then when it appeared that didn't work 
> followed up with a liberal amount of spray through a straw, all directed at 
> the center shaft. Waited a few weeks in hopes that it would work it's way in 
> and cure the squeak but it hasn't happened so far. Still raising heII when 
> raising. I already purchased all the 36-1 drawings that Doug could find from 
> the Marine Museum in Kingston ON, but none of a masthead detail. Similar 
> might be helpful.
> 
> Any help is appreciated. 
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> 1981 C 36-1 Chamamé
> Tampa, FL
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
> Chamamé & Crew at Hospice Cup '19 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 170, Issue 32

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I’ve had all rope halyards on my boat for about 15 years and have never needed 
to add extra cover to reduce chafe.   I’d give it a try and see if you need to 
do it before going to the trouble of adding the cover.   

Just my two cents. 


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:29 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I had a wire/rope halyard break late fall.  It had a lot of age and broke on
> the wire at the sheave.  I was going to replace all halyards to rope this
> spring.  Comments in general are making me think.  Sheaves seams fine still.
> Joel, what is a halyard end cover? 
> 
> Paul Hood
> '81 C Georgian bay
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 11:12:37 -0400
> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: cnc-list 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wire-to-rope vs rope
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Joe,
> Unless the sheave was damaged, it should not be an issue.  You could add a
> cover to the end of the halyard.
> Joel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Looking for replacement part for spinnaker pole end coupling

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I'd give Rig Rite a try:   
https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spinnaker_Poles/Spinnaker_Poles_&_Parts.php 
   
You will need to know the ID of the pole.  



Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Feb 15, 2020, at 1:42 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In one of the last races of the last season we broke our spinnaker pole. The 
> nipple(?) that couples with the spinnaker’s mast car broke.
> I managed to remove the end of the pole (I don’t know what these parts are 
> called). Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? You can see a 
> picture of what I mean here:
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rwwRxqAeVFh5igTcyIijgqZa8lHkjse8/view?usp=sharing
> 
> This is for a 1983 C 35 MKIII.
> 
> By the way The Office did decently well last year. Second place over all on 
> Wednesday Nights, Hee Soo, also on this list earned first place. The race 
> that broke our pole was part of The Last Chance Regatta for HRYRA (Hudson 
> River Yacht Racing Association). We got a 3rd which is not bad. I think we 
> were the only one in our club who finished in the money for division 1. We 
> did pretty well just flying our #2 after the pole broke. Go figure. Well 
> there was a lot of wind.
> 
> I suspect the breakage just had to do with fatigue after 37 years. It is 
> aluminum after all. I can’t imagine what could have been binding on the cup, 
> if anything. We were in the process of winching in the guy to pull the pole 
> back for a deeper angle. It seems so odd that this broke.
> 
> Again, if anyone knows where to get a replacement it would be much 
> appreciated. 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> 1983 C 35 MKIII
> Nyack NY
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] New thought re: anchor light?

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I have one of these old GUEST hoistable lights.It is off the deck and still 
visible at a level most boaters are able to see. 
http://ariel-cd36.org/wordpress/?tag=led-bulb 


Miel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Feb 4, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Aside from Joe's comment on bugs, I see value in a "deck level" anchor light. 
>  I have one similar to this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Pactrade-Marine-Navigation-Anchor-Splashproof/dp/B01KY4477I
>  
> 
> 
> I plug it into a 12 vdc receptacle at the helm station and hang it from the 
> boom.  I also show the one at the mast top.
> 
> Advantages: a spare anchor light and it can be seen by drunken party barge 
> drivers (is that redundant?).
> 
> Disadvantages:  bugs and more light in the cabin for sleeping.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Tom,  I have a 1978 C 36.   My spreaders are attached directly to the mast 
via 4 machine screws.   Considering the fact that the bracket was removed from 
the mast I would recommend you get a rigger to take a look at it.   I’d also 
file with the insurance company as this should be covered and they can recover 
from the owner of the other boat.

I’m a rigger in the Norfolk VA area and am amazed that all the local yards 
allow boats to be hauled with sails on the boat.  I recommend to my clients 
that they tie of the furler at the drum.   Most drums are able to be secured 
that way so that the sail will not unfurl.   As a rule when I am leaving my 
boat for any amount of time and have a roller furler headsail on the boat I 
remove it.   Even in winter the UV will attack the sail and if the boat is not 
being used why keep it in the weather?


If you have any questions feel free to contact me off line;   
perfomancerigging.m...@gmail.com

Good luck,  

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Jan 8, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Went to check up on my boat the other day and found that my lower port 
> spreader bracket had been pulled off the mast, but still attached to 
> spreader.  Seems a nearby sailboat owner had not removed the jib and it came 
> unfurled during a storm and caught hold of the spreader boot. I can only 
> imagine it violently shaking my spreader and rig. With the bracket partially 
> off I can see a hole in the mast.
> - Is that some kind of access opening behind the bracket? Or is it worse than 
> that? I'm buried in the yard and the mast won't be down till spring.
> -If the bracket or spreader is destroyed, does anyone know of a source for 
> replacements?
> - Boat owner or Boatyard responsible?
> Appreciate any info.
>  
> Tom Alessi
> Andiamo C 36
> 646-283-1580
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Removing shrouds

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

For the older style NAVTEC rigging the “balls” at the top of the should move 
freely allowing access to inspect the heads.   Most times a simple visual with 
a magnifying glass will show any defects such as cracking.   If seen they 
should be polished and then do a dye penetrant test.   More problematic are the 
studs at the turnbuckles.   If they have been peened then there is no way to 
remove them without cutting the rod.  If they aren’t peened then should be able 
to heat the fitting to loosen the locktite and unscrew it for inspection.   To 
do a complete inspection of older rod (70’s/80’s vintage" it is best to unstep 
the mast.



 
Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Dec 26, 2019, at 12:16 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Don't the ends need to have mushrooms cut off and resweaged? if so I would 
> let a good rigger experienced with rod rigging do it, and do a dye test at 
> the same time. They usually use longer fittings to make up for the loss in 
> lenght and it is supposed to be done periodically, though I have no idea how 
> often. Or consider replacing it all as it could be time anyway, rod lasts 
> longer than wire but not for ever. 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 6:14 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Ok so i didn’t see this before i posted so that makes it plus 2 on the 
> importance of shrouds on sailboats
> 
> On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 5:48 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 1+ on having a rigger check it out--even if you can replace it, your rig will 
> likely need tuned.
> 
> IMHO, messing around with the rigging is one place where I will pay a 
> professional to fix it. Except for an abandon ship from a sinking vessel, 
> having a gravity storm with your rigging is probably the 2nd worse thing that 
> can happen on a sailboat.
> 
> FWIW,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom 83309
> C 36XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Michael Brannon via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Michael Brannon mailto:ff1...@aol.com>>
> Sent: Tue, Dec 24, 2019 3:47 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing shrouds
> 
> I would recommend you get a rigger to look at it.  If you have the old style 
> NAVTEC fittings it will be much easier to remove with the mast out of the 
> boat.
> 
> 
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 19, 2019, at 8:26 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
> 
> Hello fellow Listers,
> 
> I noticed after hurricane Doirion that the turnbuckle on the lower shroud had 
> loosened substantially and now in heavier wind it comes loose almost as 
> though the threads are worn or stripped.  I want to replace it but I don't 
> know how to remove it from the rod rigging.  Am I able to replace it without 
> or is there a trick to disconnecting the shroud at the mast?
> 
> Thanks
> Adam Hayden.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> <https://aka.ms/ghei36>___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Removing shrouds

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I would recommend you get a rigger to look at it.  If you have the old style 
NAVTEC fittings it will be much easier to remove with the mast out of the boat.


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Dec 19, 2019, at 8:26 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello fellow Listers,
> 
> I noticed after hurricane Doirion that the turnbuckle on the lower shroud had 
> loosened substantially and now in heavier wind it comes loose almost as 
> though the threads are worn or stripped.  I want to replace it but I don't 
> know how to remove it from the rod rigging.  Am I able to replace it without 
> or is there a trick to disconnecting the shroud at the mast?
> 
> Thanks
> Adam Hayden.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal options

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I asked about maintenance on the PYI seal and was told to replace the bellows 
every 5-7 years.   I’ve found that it is best to replace the unit as by that 
time the carbon seal is starting to score and requires replacement also.   The 
bellows is the weak link in the system and since failure of the bellows would 
be catastrophic I have followed this schedule.   I’ve been using the seal since 
about 1997 and have been very happy with it.   

Sail Safe, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Dec 12, 2019, at 1:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Just a week ago a dock neighbor of ours had this exact twisting action 
> completely separate their bellows on a PYI seal.  The only indication of a 
> problem from the helm was the fwap, fwap, fwap sound of the vent hose 
> whipping around and hitting the inside of the hull.  Evidently the stainless 
> ring a lightly seized to the carbon ring.  Seized together the carbon ring 
> rotated with the shaft and twisted up the vent hose until the slack was out 
> and then amputated the vent at its remote barb fitting.  Fortunately enough, 
> a remarkably small amount of flooding occurred.  When the seal was righted in 
> its orientation the leak stopped almost completely despite the 
> circumferential tear.  The owner knew that the seal needed replaced and in 
> fact was about to depart for the boat yard just a few hundred yards away so 
> that they could have the seal replaced during the winter.  His other shaft 
> seal looked just about as bad too!  
> 
> On the PYI seals and others with a bellows design, the service life is 
> typically 3 to 5 years before recommended replacement.  The bellows has to be 
> flexible so a thinner material is used.  Of course the constant stress of 
> compressing the bellows is an additional factor degrading the rubber.  In the 
> case of PYI this $2 piece of hose costs ~$100.
> 
> In the case of the Lasdrop Gen 2 the $2 hose is ridged and thick to resist 
> the compression of the SS spring in the seal pack.  The service interval is 8 
> to 10 years.
> 
> 
> If I was to go back to a packing style seal what would be involved?
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 12:17 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Josh, Shawn is correct. The 6 inch or so piece of hose on the original 
> packing gland. I would bet a high number of boats still have it in service. 
> Mine was 20 years old when I replaced it and the outer rubber layer had 
> cracks in it. There isn’t a lot of water pressure on it but it gets a little 
> twisting force. Any original rubber hose should be gone by now. Len
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

The new HARKEN backstay adjusters are being shipped without a gage.   I have a 
Sailtec on my C 36.  It does have a gauge but I have a batten taped to the 
adjuster and it is marked such that it can be adjusted based on the marks which 
equate to known weather conditions rather than rely on the pressure gage which 
is barely readableAt the dock I tension it enough to make sure that the 
mast is not moving.

Sail Safe, 

Mike 


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Dec 2, 2019, at 11:58 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think rule of thumb for hydraulic backstay is 500 to 600# at the dock and 
> no more than 25% breaking strength maximum when sailing.  For my -10 rated 
> for 10,000#, that's around 2500#.  Probably much higher for your larger 
> backstay.   Of course this is moot if your headstay isn't set properly.  Some 
> boats add a 2" toggle in winds under 15 knots to the headstay so the main can 
> be flattened without over tensioning the genoa.  Physics.
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R
> 
>
>> On December 2, 2019 at 2:50 PM Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote: 
>> 
>> Hi all, 
>> 
>> We just had our backstay adjuster rebuilt and am wondering what PSI we 
>> should keep it at while moored? 
>> 
>> Thanks 
>> 
>> Kari and Patrick Gateley 
>> 1988 C 44' "Odessa" 
>> ___ 
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2020 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I’ve yet to be able to make one of these but in the hopes of getting it on my 
calendar early my input is as follows:
1. 1st week in October
2.  Between Solomons and Annapolis, but I am not opposed to going further 
north. 

Hoping to meet everyone next fall 

Mike

Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2019 12:06 pm
> Subject: Stus-List 2020 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous
> 
> All right folks, 
> 
> With the 2019 Rendezvous only slightly in the rear view mirror, we're already 
> seeing quite a bit of discussion regarding next year.  I'll take that as an 
> indication of the success of this year's event!
> 
> Additionally, we are already discussing a location for 2021!  It tentatively 
> looks like Solomons for 2021.  Dates TBD. 
> 
> As for 2020: We are REQUESTING input on locations and dates.  
> Weekend dates we are in the early stages of considering are the last weekend 
> of Sept and the first weekend of Oct. (Sept 25, 26,27 and Oct 2, 3, 4)
> Previous year's polls have indicated that the highest number of people were 
> interested in locations on the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis and Solomons. 
>  Outliers both further North and South voted but not in sufficiently high 
> numbers to warrant an immediate venue consideration.
> I also say that those who attend most in the past get priority vote for 
> future events.  As such - Rainy Days, La Neige, Coquina, Crazy Legs, Der 
> Barron, Sea Hawk, SEA YA !, and Ciothog - your input is absolutely requested.
> A lot of spirit has been generated around Baltimore's Anchorage Marina.
> All thoughts, inputs, votes, considerations, etc. are more than welcome.  
> Please!  I'm begging!  I'll re-poll shortly but without input we'll have to 
> just make executive decisions.  I say it again and again, "This isn't my 
> event, it is ours.  If no one attends then the event is a failure of efforts. 
>  I want it to be whatever, where ever, and whenever is best for the largest 
> number of interested people."
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 36 hatch

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I recently measured mine as 19” X 13”.This isn’t an exact measurement but 
should get you in the ball park.

Good luck, 


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Oct 21, 2019, at 9:17 AM, Nico Bosscha via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dear C Owners,
> 
> I hope you have a little time to read my message to you.
>  
> I life in the Netherlands and have my C 36 (No. 626104, build 1980) for 
> this moment on the hard in Curaçao, what actually is her homeport.
> I have my boat lying there because I have a little daughter on the island.
>  
> In about 2 weeks I will fly again to my boat to do quite some labour.
> About three years ago i had the front hatch replaced with a lewmar hatch.
> Now the rear hatch (the one under the boom) has a handle broken off and the 
> hatch needs to be replaced.
> Last time I was on the boat, i wrote down the sizes of that hatch but I 
> cannot find that note anymore…
>  
> Do you happily know the build in sizes for the rear hatch, so I can buy it 
> here and take it to Curaçao?
>  
> Your reply most appreciated.
>  
> Hi Nico Bosscha
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Mike Brannon / Virginia Lee / C 36 MK1 CB / 1978 / 93297 / Virginia Beach, VA

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Dave,  I’d recommend that you contact EDSON for the tiller arm.  

Sail Safe, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Oct 2, 2019, at 9:56 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Looking to upgrade my Raymarine EV100/p70/acu100/ wheel drive to a below-deck 
> linear actuator.Octopus has an electric linear drive that appears to be a 
> good choice for the tight confines of a 33-2
> 
> http://octopusdrives.com/products/type-rs-sailboat-drives/ 
> 
> 
> Looks like I’d need the drive and a tiller arm. 
> 
> Any suggestions as to a source for the tiller arm?
> 
> Wondering if the acu-100 is compatible with the octopus type RS?
> 
> Has anyone done this conversion?   Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks, Dave 
> Windstar 33-2
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 36-1 centerboard pendant

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Rod,  the arrangement on my boat is a thimble to a shackle at the centerboard.  
 You will have to cut the wire the remove it as the thimble will not fit 
through the tube.   My pendant has an aircraft fork on deck.   The only thimble 
is at the board. 

I hope this helps, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Oct 1, 2019, at 1:07 PM, Rod Fisk via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have to replace the wire pendant on my 1981 36-1. There are some broken 
> wires where the cable wraps around the thimble at the deck end. Does anyone 
> have any detailed specs or drawings? I work at an industrial rigging shop so 
> I can have a new one made. I also want to know what to expect when I lift the 
> boat this month so I have the right tools to take off the old one.
> 
> Thanks
> Rod Fisk
> 36-1 Corsair Lake Winnebago, WI
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I made a strop with AMSTEEL.  I spliced eyes in each end.   It goes around the 
mast three times.   It stays in place without anything holding it there.


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Sep 23, 2019, at 9:29 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>  
> We were headed out for the last race of the season Saturday and as we loaded 
> up the main for the first time, the fitting on the boom that  attaches to the 
> main sheet snapped off our 30-2.  This was a single eye attached to a plate 
> riveted to the inside of the boom.  I suspect this probably just weakened 
> over time and happened to give out at the weld.   It was quite windy, but at 
> that point the stresses on the mainsheet weren’t out of the ordinary since we 
> were just motoring out of the harbor.  No other damage to the boat and no 
> harm to the crew as a result of this, so it could have been much worse.
>  
> Now the issue is how to find a replacement.  Anyone have an idea if these are 
> available off the shelf or have another idea for replacement?  RigRite does 
> not recognize it.  I have also contacted Offshore Spars, who I believe made 
> the rig originally and helped me out with a boom vang bracket last year. 
> RigRite has one that is similar size but with a different hole pattern that I 
> probably could make work, but still hoping for a true replacement if I can 
> get one.  Thanks for your help!
>  
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Try Rig Rite:   https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/MH_Spinnaker_bails.php 
  They should 
have something that will fit your boat.  

All the best, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Aug 8, 2019, at 6:10 PM, Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Folks,
> 
> I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
> system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
> similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?
> 
> One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
> spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
> furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
> added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Luke
> SV Zella C 35-3
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rod rigging on a c 30 mkii

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Maurice,  the stem ball fittings rotate as they are tightened.   They are 
basically threaded to a spacer piece which goes through the mast and allows 
them to move.   I’m making the assumption that you still have the original rod 
and fittings.   

Mike


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Jun 28, 2019, at 5:11 PM, Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I raised tha mast today and rigged the shrouds except for the lowers on both 
> side.  These two shrouds have a curve where they enter into the mast.  I am 
> not sure if they are well positionned so did not want to tighten the 
> turnbuckles and kink the rod at those curves.  Would anyone know how the rod 
> is held inside the mast and if I need to ensure the shrouds are straight and 
> aligned to the chain plate.  I hope I am describing accurately.
> 
> Thank you for your valuable input
> 
> cheers,
> 
> Maurice Poulin
> Monoloy C 30 mkii
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Adding cover to line

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Bill,  if none of the  Chuck’s items apply, I’d milk in additional core to bulk 
up the line rather than add cover.I did that on my boat and it helps.   I’m 
using 3/8” endura braid for my halyards and have spin lock rope clutches.
Also some of the less expensive rope clutches do not hold as well as the more 
expensive of the same brand.   

Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Jun 25, 2019, at 5:24 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Before you bulk up your Halyards or change to a rope with a more aggressive 
> cover, it would be good to know if the high tech but slippery halyard line is:
> A. New to the boat?
> B. If yes to the above, is it properly sized for the clutch?
> C. If old, is there visible wear on the cover or signs of non-recoverable 
> compression where the clutch holds the rope? Try end for ending the halyard 
> to move the wear area to a different spot.  If wear seems excessive, replace 
> the halyard before it comes apart under load.
> D. Are the clutch teeth worn?  Depending on the brand of clutch, rebuild kits 
> can be sourced.  If nothing else has changed on the boat and the halyard has 
> just started slipping, this is the usual culprit.
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> S/V HalfMagic
> 1983 35 LF
> Padanaram, MA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:24 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> I have hi tech low stretch but slippery halyard which my clutches just won't 
>> hold.  Thinking of adding another cover at the point where they pass through 
>> clutch.
>> Any thoughts or solutions beyond replacing clutches or halyards.  now I take 
>> to a cleat, but cumbersome as I have both on same side with a single winch 
>> and when remove from winch get a little slip before can cleat off..
>> Bill Walker
>> CnC 36
>> Evening Star
>> Pentwater, Mi.
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1980 C 36 CB

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I removed mine a couple of years back.The next time I’m at the boat I’ll 
get you some measurements to help locate the pin.   On mine there was a plate 
on the port side that had 4 screws holding it in place.   There was nothing on 
the starboard side.The pendant is attached to the centerboard by means of a 
shackle.The centerboard is cast iron and quite heavy.   I had mine 
palletized and took it home to my shop where I suspended it.   It was then 
sandblasted and encapsulated in epoxy and faired.   It made a difference in how 
the boat pointed and was worth the effort. 


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Nov 24, 2018, at 3:20 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Wrong boat I realise but perhaps the design and method of attachment are 
> similar?
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WUHREVGs/view 
> 
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> On Sat, 24 Nov 2018 at 15:07, mark allott via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Looking for blueprints or drawings for my centreboard. Need to remove. 
> 
> Sent from Mark's iPad 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Great idea,   I just installed a Johnson cleat.   I had to spread the clamp to 
get it on and like you I really don’t like it.   I like what you did and will 
copy your design.  

Sail Safe, 

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 36KCB centreboard pendant

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Tim,   I replaced my pendant along with the centerboard pin about 5 years ago.  
 The original fitting used on deck is no longer available from any source that 
I could find.   I used a 3/16”  aircraft eye with a 3/8” pin as a replacement a 
marine eye would work just as well.   You cannot feed the wire through the tube 
going to the centerboard if it has an eye pre-made.   Once attached at the top 
and the correct length marked with a sharpie,  I fed the wire through the tube 
and made up the eye once it was out of the bottom and then cut off the excess.  
You can either micro press it or use SS rope clamps.The pendant is made 
from 8” of  3/16” 7X7 SS wire.   Any rigger should be able to make this.   

If you replace the bow shackle that attaches the wire to the board make sure 
you use a shackle made of good stainless such as Wichard.  A cheap shackle will 
corrode within a few years, I’m speaking from experience.

I have a spare wire made up but it is only 7’ in length.  If after you remove 
yours you find this would be long enough I would be happy to send it to you for 
the cost of shipping.   

When I had my centerboard off I took it home and suspended it from the forks on 
my tractor.   I sandblasted, treated the metal with OSPHO(SIC), and 
encapsulated it in epoxy, and then faired it.  I over drilled the hole for the 
pin and inserted a piece of UHMWP as a bearing  It works much better now.  

Regards and good luck, 

Mike 


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Jun 13, 2018, at 9:12 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Len,
> 
> Good info, very much appreciated. Not sure the value of the build file 
> though, if there isn't any dimensional data.
> 
> I have reached out to Rob at South Shore and so some more info may be 
> forthcoming.
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
> 
> On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 12:49 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Tim, I still have the manuals and build file for our 1981 36KCB, hull # 216 
> (Incision). I had a look and the pendant part # was 074616 but there are no 
> dimensions or drawings other than winch location. Maybe call Southshore 
> Yachts, they should know where to find it. Or Mars keels as a plan B. If you 
> need the parts list for the centreboard keel, I have it in the old build 
> file. Ours was in fresh water and never replaced. 
> 
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 36 Head Port Light Replacement

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I replaced my fixed port lights with BOMAR port lights that open about 10 years 
ago.   They don’t leak, look very much like the originals and I didn’t have to 
do much to fit them.   I still have the frames for the fixed ports if anyone is 
interested.   Please contact me off line.   


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1979 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Mar 28, 2018, at 9:07 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I replaced mine with a Beckson 4 x 14 with rain gutter from Defender.  $135 
> five years ago.  Still, with slope of the bulk head it is mounted in, water 
> gathers in lower part if heeled, and when opened will dribble in..
> Bill Walker
> 1981 CnC 36 
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I use vegetable oil on the o-rings for my poultry feeders.   It works great 
lasts about a season and they get refilled about every other day which means 
that the water doesn’t wash it away.   

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, V


> On Mar 29, 2018, at 7:37 AM, Paul E via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Super Lube!  Stuff works great and it is food grade.  
> 
> | I thought about lubricating the O rings, but couldn't think of anything 
> that I wanted to have in contact with drinking water. 
> |
> | Steve Thomas
> | C 
> | Merritt Island, FL
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

You can always run the vent line to your salt water supply to the engine.   
That is how mine is run.You need to change the rubber boot every 5-7  
years.I generally replace the entire assembly at that time.   


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pfd

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

One of my auto inflate PFDs went off by itself years ago.   When I looked at 
the bobbin it was way past its service life, I was only looking to see if the 
green showed on the outside tab and was not checking the date on the bobbin.  
Halkey Roberts website ( 
http://www.halkeyroberts.com/userfiles/files/Inflation%20IFUs/IFU_V80040_B%20Rev%20A.pdf
 

 ) says the bobbins have a shelf life of 3 years and a service life of 3 years 
for recreational use.  For something approaching the end of its shelf life 
installed on a PFD that is new old stock and not knowing the conditions in 
which it was stored I think the bobbin is close to the end of its service life. 
 My annual maintenance is to verify that the bobbin is within its service life 
and blow up the PFD to see that it holds for 24 hours.  On a monthly basis I 
check that the tab is green but if it is red, you will know because the life 
jacket will have inflated.   

I’m a retired Naval Officer so I may go a bit overboard on the PFD maintenance 
but I feel better by going to this extreme.  

Sail Safe, 

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee, 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, Va


> On Nov 15, 2017, at 10:40 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The maintenance record on the two auto inflate PFDs I bought show they were 
> made in October, 2015. Is it possible the bobbins in yours are marked with a 
> 2015 manufacturing date and not an expiration date?
> The maintenance for the PFDs calls for visual inspection of the green ring in 
> the inflator dome and of the green/red tab on the manual trigger, but I don't 
> recall an expiration date or a recommended replacement interval on the 
> bobbins.
> 
> On mine, the slider of the zipper IS on the end over the inflation mechanism 
> when the zipper is closed. And the zipper is a big improvement over the 
> Velcro strips on the Sospenders and West Marine PFDs I've bought previously.
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Leslie 
> Paal via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 8:02 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Leslie Paal 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pfd
> 
> I got two of these, but not impressed.  The design (or manufacturing) has a 
> couple issues.
> - the "rip" zipper seems to me installed backward.  To check the bobbin you 
> have to undo the whole zipper because the slider is on the wrong end.
> - the manual activation cord has a very good chance to get caught on things 
> and surprise the wearer.  My other west have the activator protected from 
> accidental pull.
> 
> I suppose you get what you pay for.  I'm still think it was an OK buy, just 
> not so grand.
> 
> Leslie.
> and yes the bobbins have 2015 date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I had a similar experience on my old 3QM30.   Removing the head is not 
difficult and there isn’t much interference on the engine.  On my C 36 the 
difficulty was the lack of space to lift the head.   To remove it I had to 
remove the head studs from the block and then slide it forward.   I went the 
cheap route and just replaced the head gasket.   A year later I updated the 
engine with a new YANMAR.I’d get an estimate for both removal and the 
service work on the head and the injectors.If you save much then remove the 
head yourself and deliver it to a machine shop to rework the valves and 
injectors.Lastly my 3QM30 was raw water cooled and many of the water 
passages were clogged.  I was able to rod them out without removing the engine. 
   

Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. 

Mike
VIRGINIA LEE 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

> On Sep 8, 2016, at 8:00 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> DR,
> Check out simplemachine.com  in Providence. 
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Sep 8, 2016, at 2:40 PM, David via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> So...we are leaving harbor  to make our way down to Mystic for the 
>> Rendezvous.   As I usually do I turn around and check the exhaust for water 
>> and color.
>> 
>> Today the color as darkish grey and it looked like oil was coming out as 
>> well.
>> 
>> I do an immediate 180 and go back to the mooring.
>> 
>> Mechanic is out within the hour and confirms my suspicions. Head gasket.  To 
>> do the job right (injectors, planing head etc) he estimates $2,500 to 
>> $3,000.  I think the price is fair but I wonder if I could do it myself.   
>> Anyone have any experiences around this?   I am a fair mechanic, but I don't 
>> want to be penny-wise of pound foolish and I have never done anything like 
>> this before.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance...
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!