Stus-List filling fibreglass holes

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi everyone, I wonder if anyone might be able to direct me to a resource
with instructions to fill drilled holes in my coachtop?

I moved a winch and a sheet stopper to new locations.  The holes that were
left are in an area that is non-skid.  I filled the holes almost to the top
with thickened West System epoxy to keep them weatherproof over the
winter.   I'm not sure where to go from here.  I did have some colour
matched gel coat mixed up for me at a local marina.  I just don't know how
to complete the repair.  I've never done fibreglass repair of any kind so
I'm looking for simple, very specific instructions to finish this project.

Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated.

Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MK II
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Rugby Shirt

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Sorry, didn't see size chart. Got it
W

On Thu, Feb 29, 2024, 05:19 Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The classic C Rugby shirts have arrived.
>
> Limited Stock available, not sure if I’ll do another run so get yours
> while they are available.
>
> To all those that expressed interest and ordered previously, thank you.
>
> Shop
> 
> ghcarchives.com
> 
> [image: apple-touch-icon.png]
> 
> 
>
>
> JohnKelly Cuthbertson
>
> www.ghcsrchives.com
> www.candcyachts.com
>
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Rugby Shirt

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

In ordering size, any info re fit?  I'm 5'9", 155 lb and thinking Medium.
Make sense?
Wade
Oh Boy
33 mk 2

On Thu, Feb 29, 2024, 05:19 Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The classic C Rugby shirts have arrived.
>
> Limited Stock available, not sure if I’ll do another run so get yours
> while they are available.
>
> To all those that expressed interest and ordered previously, thank you.
>
> Shop
> 
> ghcarchives.com
> 
> [image: apple-touch-icon.png]
> 
> 
>
>
> JohnKelly Cuthbertson
>
> www.ghcsrchives.com
> www.candcyachts.com
>
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Age reversing C for sale

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

that is a beautiful boat Dave.  If you can't get your asking price for a
boat that loved, there is no justice in the world
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2
Lake of the Woods

On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 7:22 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Good evening all,
> As I am now the owner of two boats, I am reluctantly offering Windstar, my
> C 33 mk ii for sale.   Details here:
> Windstar4sale 
> and of course on the blog shared many times over the last decade.
> Thanks, Dave
> 33-2 Windstar.
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Leather is costly. I rewrapped the top half of my wheel with bike handle
bar wrap. Creates a nice soft and warm feel. Weathers well and costs $20.
Infinite colour choices. Easy to apply/remove. I picked one that looks like
cork. It seems to last about 2-3 years
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun., Nov. 27, 2022, 6:02 p.m. CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?
> I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.
> The Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of
> stock.  Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there
> better sources?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis, Md
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Wade
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

I like this idea Kevin. When you poke holes in the Sunbrella for the screws
to secure the magnets, how did you keep those holes from fraying?
Wade
Oh boy 33 mk II

On Wed, Jul 27, 2022, 07:32 Kevin Wright via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have 4 panels mounted on our bimini using rare-earth-magnet. Seen over
> 40 knots without any issues.
> https://suntechsolar.ca/product/rare-earth-magnet-mounting-kit/
>
> *Kevin Wright*
> Landfall 43
> Raven
> Midland ON
>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 26, 2022, 8:22 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone figured out how to mount a flexible solar panel on the bimini
>>> top without the panel edges/corners chafing the sunbrella?
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy, C 33 mk II
>>> Lake of the Woods
>>>
>>

Stus-List Solar Panel on Bimini top

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Has anyone figured out how to mount a flexible solar panel on the bimini
top without the panel edges/corners chafing the sunbrella?

Wade
Oh Boy, C 33 mk II
Lake of the Woods

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

What "control panel" are you referring to?  Ignition, oil/fuel gauges etc?
Wade
Oh boy 33 mk II
Lake of the Woods


On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 08:48 Jeff Nelson via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> It's not for the starter...It is for power to the control panel.  It just
> happens to be behind the starter on top of the engine...
> Which in my opinion is a really stupid place to hide it, and took me
> forever to find.
>
> --
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C
>
>
>
> On 2022-07-07 10:42, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That fuse holder is especially syrange- starters are the exception to the
> rule that all loads should have appropriate rated fuses or breakers
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:36 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Had this happen to me.  Mine has an obscure fuse right side facing aft,
>> near the starter.  My fuse holder had
>> cracked and was intermittently permitting things to work perfectly or not
>> at all.  Check that, and the ground
>> as others have mentioned.
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>>   Jeff Nelson
>>   Muir Caileag
>>   C 30 - 549
>>   Armdale Y.C.
>>
>> On 2022-07-07 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
>> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
>> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
>> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
>> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
>> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
>> experience.
>>
>> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
>> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
>> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
>> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
>> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
>> real PITA to get to.
>>
>> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
>> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
>> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
>> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
>> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
>> start.
>>
>> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
>> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.
>
>

Stus-List Sea Foam

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Does anyone put Sea Foam in their Diesel fuel?

Wade Glew
Oh Boy, 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods

Stus-List Re: Cutting Board

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

There is nothing wrong with using food grade mineral oil, available in Wal
Mart pharmacy isle for under $5.
Wade
Oh boy 33-2

On Sun, Feb 20, 2022, 20:13 Robert Abbott via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Charlie
>
> Beeswax can sometimes be found at some big box stores, hardware stores,
> where candles are sold, where good quality cutting boards are sold (the
> store pushes a can of the beeswax for maintenance and extra $$$ and of
> course an apiary (200 lbs of honey needed to make 1 lb of beeswax)
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2022-02-20 5:54 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> I like the beeswax idea--natural, etc. but aside from the web, where does
> one find beeswax?
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: C Cutting Boards are ready (2nd try)

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

I did not see a link to the order form or payment platform. Is it too late
to order 10x14 with Oh Boy name?
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022, 12:50 stu--- via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> I think the PayPal problem has been resolved. Try Again.
>
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Cutting Boards are ready (2nd try)

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Are you saying the order is in and done Stu?
Wade
Oh boy 33-2

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022, 12:50 stu--- via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> I think the PayPal problem has been resolved. Try Again.
>
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

very interesting stuff; thanks Chuck

Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 3:23 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> "Balsa core" gets some bad press and I was interested in how it came into
> boating, especially C
>
> After some research, I learned:
> Making things with a core was first used by Egyptians three thousand years
> ago.  Veneers of precious wood over a core of cheaper wood extended the use
> of precious materials.  The practice was lost in the middle ages and
> re-imagined in the 1700's when furniture makers wanted to make things from
> scarce woods.
>
> Later in the 1920's and 30's, balsa core was being harvested in Equador
> by a French company trying to market it in France in the 20's and 30's.
> The Jewish French owners fled the Nazi takeover and emigrated to the US.
> Their balsa was later used by DeHaviland in England to build the famous
> Mosquito two engine bombers in 1941.  Dehavilland built over 7700 of these
> 400+ mph planes using two Spitfire engines each.   They used a plywood
> vaneer over an endgrain balsa core.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTsnMKzmdWs=613s
>
> The balsa industry lost a market after WWII but in the 70's, they
> convinced fiberglass boat builders to use balsa core and Hatteras
> sportfishing yachts were their first big client.  Almost all boat builders
> eventually started using balsa soon after, including C, Pearson, Santana,
> Cape Dory, Columbia, Catalina, Hunter, Olsen, Saber, Schock, J-Boats,
> Beneteau, Jeanneau, as well as all the power boat builders, too.
> https://www.company-histories.com/Baltek-Corporation-Company-History.html
>
> Core comparisons:
>
> https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/inner-layer-core-materials-sailboat-construction/
>
> I personally think C did an industry leading job to perfect the process
> using fiberglass and balsa core to build a lightweight and strong
> structure, but that is better covered by John Kelly Cuthbertson or others
> with more personal knowledge.
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

nice summary Riley; thanks

Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 10:39 AM Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Joe and any others interested in this topic.
>
> I install lithium batteries as my side job and after installing lithium on
> our 38-ii and other large boats and consulting on another half dozen boats,
> I can speak with some authority on this topic.
>
> *The risk of serious electrical or fire damage can be entirely mitigated
> by properly installing the right equipment and following a strict circuit
> topology. Most people who have installed lithium do not do this and this is
> precisely why we hear about "lithium fires" so commonly.*
>
> Before diving into the details, you should be aware that in order to
> safely install lithium batteries on a boat, you need to buy top-quality
> gear that is compatible with the exact lithium chemistry of your batteries.
> Can you use an AGM charge profile from the old charger you have lying
> around? Sure, you may be willing to take more risks than others but this is
> not acceptable in a professional install and it also reduces the efficiency
> of your expensive batteries that you bought for their high efficiency in
> the first place! It is these "indirect" costs of making the lithium safe
> aboard that will dramatically increase the investment cost. Also, in order
> to take full advantage of the perks of lithium you need to be able to
> efficiently charge the system. This means a substantial solar array or very
> high output alternator (often requiring serpentine belts and larger
> pulleys). *For the weekend sailor or anyone tied to a dock most of their
> season, these costs cannot be justified over conventional lead-acid or AGM
> technology.*
>
> My wife and I live aboard and spend our entire season on anchor or
> mooring. This is where lithium shines. We have 720 watts of solar and 320
> Ah of lithium. *We run a fridge, separate freezer, fans, computers,
> microwave, electric kettle, with enough excess power each day to either
> make 6 gallons of hot water through the inverter or run a 5000 BTU air
> conditioner on high for 5 hours through the night.* We have all the
> luxuries of home and are never concerned about running out of power.
>
> *The details:*
>
> The Battleborn, Dakota, and Renogy batteries that advertise *a "drop-in"
> replacement for lead-acid should never be used on a boat*. These were
> designed for van-lifers who can pull over and escape if something goes
> horribly wrong.
>
> The key with lithium is that you need to protect both your boat and
> its electronics and your substantial investment in batteries. Lithium
> batteries will not tolerate overcharging, this is where the fire risk comes
> in. On the other hand, over-discharging will not cause a fire risk but will
> destroy your battery. The "drop-in" replacement batteries "solve" this by
> disconnecting their terminals in the case of either overcharge or
> over-discharge. This is unacceptable on a boat for two reasons: 1) most
> obviously, if you lose all DC power underway, you no longer have VHF,
> depth, chartplotter, bilge pumps, radar, etc. 2) if the alternator is
> spinning but there is no battery to accept the charge, it will send
> unregulated voltage through the entire electrical system.
>
> The proper way to install lithium involves implementing a dual-DC bus
> topology where all of the charge sources come into a single "charge bus"
> and all of the loads run on a separate "load bus". Victron Energy is the
> only company with off-the-shelf batteries and related components to
> implement such a system. Of course, the savy DIYer can build their own
> lithium banks and program a compatible battery management system to achieve
> a similar end result but this involves a serious appreciation for the
> nuances of lithium and circuitry design. Essentially, a battery management
> system (BMS) will both balance the individual cells in a battery and
> measure the voltage of each cell. If any single cell reaches its upper
> voltage threshold value, the BMS triggers a relay to disconnect the charge
> bus and prevent overcharging (keep in mind, there are other steps necessary
> to protect alternators, I'll come back to this later). If any cell reaches
> its lower voltage threshold, the BMS similarly triggers a relay
> disconnecting the load bus to prevent over-discharge. The separation of
> charge and load busses is critical as it allows the system to recover on
> its own. In the event of a low-voltage disconnect, the charge bus remains
> connected and the battery can recharge. In a high-voltage disconnect, the
> loads are still connected and can bring the battery back down to a safer
> voltage.
>
> To charge lithium from an alternator, you need a lead-acid or AGM in
> between to act as a buffer (most commonly, this can be your starter
> battery). The alternator charges the lead battery. Connected to the lead
> battery is a DC-DC charger that is capable of 

Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Sounds awful Dennis. Hang in there.
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Tue, Aug 31, 2021, 16:00 Dennis C. via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Update.  Dock neighbor says Touche' is fine.  The water is now 4-6 inches
> over the pier.  The highest was 4.5 feet over the pier.  Fortunately, there
> is no wave action in my marina.  Touche's slip is at  30°20'59.25"N  90°
> 3'14.41"W which is well off the lake.
>
> Here at the house we're still without power with no indication of when
> restoration will occur.  Generator is keeping the beer cold and the ice
> frozen.  Life is good (well, kinda).
>
> Make no mistake.  Ida was one nasty storm.  I feel for the folks in NOLA.
> The loss of the major transmission line is going to delay power restoration
> for weeks.
>
> I went to get materials to repair a broken window.  Few  traffic lights
> are working.  Those few gas stations that have gas have long, long lines.
> Those few fast food places that have power have long lines.
>
> I-10 westbound through Baton Rouge was absolutely packed with cars.  I
> suspect many folks that didn't evacuate the New Orleans area for the storm
> are now leaving because they won't have power for weeks.  Not sure if I'd
> like the idea of leaving my house in NOLA without power and a monitored
> security system.  Sad commentary but true.
>
> Communication was nonexistent until yesterday afternoon when we got
> minimal text service.  Voice calling and internet cell service followed
> about 2-3 hours later.  It was this way for Katrina.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: filling holes in coachtop

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

By mask over the top I'm guessing you're saying cover the hole with masking
tape then use the countersign bit?  Does that prevent chipping?
Wade

On Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 13:53 Dave S via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> 100%, +  mask over the top before you countersink.   If you have a small
> syringe, you can inject the material which is a little bit easier.
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Fri, 27 Aug 2021 at 12:16, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Counter sink top and bottom, tape over bottom of hole. Then fill with
>> thickened epoxy. I go for about the consistency of ketchup. Without the
>> counter sink. It will crack over time.
>>
>> Doug
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>> Date: 8/27/21 09:00 (GMT-08:00)
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Wade Glew 
>> Subject: Stus-List filling holes in coachtop
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> On my 33-MK 2, I want to move the coach top winches about 12-18
>> inches from their current location.   The site I'm moving them to is a
>> designated location by design and the coach top is round and flat in the
>> new location to allow a winch placement.   My question is, can I just fill
>> the old holes with unthickened epoxy or   what would be
>> recommended?
>>
>> thanks for your thoughts
>>
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy, 33 MK 2
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List filling holes in coachtop

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi all,

On my 33-MK 2, I want to move the coach top winches about 12-18 inches from
their current location.   The site I'm moving them to is a designated
location by design and the coach top is round and flat in the new location
to allow a winch placement.   My question is, can I just fill the old holes
with unthickened epoxy or   what would be recommended?

thanks for your thoughts


Wade
Oh Boy, 33 MK 2
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaking hatch

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

trying to remember Joe but I thought you said it was liquid electrical tape
you used on that hatch seal  ?

Wade
Oh Boy, 33-2

On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 10:54 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I got by with Capt. Tolley’s for many years, but recently my forward hatch
> had a leak that wouldn’t fix and a little strip of liquid rubber from West
> Marine painted on the outside did the trick 
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* James Hesketh via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 22, 2021 10:55 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* James Hesketh 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Leaking hatch
>
>
>
> Good luck with your boat!
>
>
>
> I recently resealed my forehatch (replaced the lens also) using Dow 795
> calk and believe it'll be a long-time cure from what I've seen, read and
> heard of it.
>
>
>
> Jim Hesketh
>
> Whisper C 26
>
> Miami, FL
>
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 10:35 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I noticed the other day that my starboard cabin top hatch was leaking.  It
> appeared to be coming in around the plexiglass itself.  It looks like a PO
> had done some repair in the past, because there was a gooey black sealant
> on the inside of the lens clearly added on top of the seal on the outboard
> part of the lens, but not the inboard part (where it is now leaking).  I
> will eventually pull the lens and reseal or replace, and will try Capt.
> Tolley’s, but wondering if anyone knows what sealant might have been used
> which would still be gooey after many years and bonds to plexiglass?
> Nothing I have used stays gooey after many years.  This all presumes the
> boat is still there tomorrow.  Wind forecast is 50-60 at the mooring later
> today.  Fingers crossed.  Dave
>
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 33 MKII Manual

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Yes, it's an entire binder with looseleaf pages from starting and breaking
in your engine to wiring diagrams, construction details, stuffing box
maintenance, tank (water, fuel, holding) sizes, line lengths/sizes and I
can't even remember what else. Are you looking for something in particular?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Thu, Aug 19, 2021, 08:21 Stu via CnC-List,  wrote:

> Good morning folks.  Does anybody know if C produced an owners manual
> for the 33Ft MKII?  If so, does anybody have one?
>
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

This is a terrific documentation of your project Mike. I hope I never have
to use it!  I hate being in that hole and I would have to cut out one of my
Propane lockers to do it. Kids are now old enough to know they don't have
to go down there just because I tell them to anymore 
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Tue, Mar 30, 2021, 08:24 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> I am copying my friend Phil who manufactured rudder bushings for
> Persistence.  We also had some wear on the post just above the rudder that
> made it slightly out of round and induced fore / aft play.  Phil may be
> able to comment on how he took the measurements and manufactured the
> bushings and the product/process he used to build up the post and return it
> to its original specifications. The Frers 33 is very similar to C and
> of the same vintage so the process and products would be very similar
>
>
>
> Persistence rudder is back in the boat and steering connected and play is
> gone.  A link to the project can be found here
> http://www.hoytsailing.com/RudderBearing.htm
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* March 30, 2021 10:04 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Delamirande 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii
>
>
>
> Does south shore yacht still have bearing for the rudder?
>
> I need one for mine mk1 30 1973
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 8:45 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Is this the delrin ring around the top of the rudder post ? When ours gave
> up (split) I got one from SouthShore that was a good fit, had to get the
> pin also as the old one was bent before we bought Perception. Going to be
> time for another soon I am sure ... so interested in what you find.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
> Sent: March 29, 2021 9:16 PM
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder post bearing for 33ii
>
> So, Mike and me was talkin’.
>
> Both our boats have  had the rudder post bearing replaced  - I was
> fortunate to have an almost intact original and was able to fabricate a
> pretty good replacement - mike was not so lucky and has a serviceable but
> temporary solution in play.
> I would like to create (really, have someone more digitally capable
> create) an accurate drawing and maybe make up a few of these.
> My original is broken into two segments and is therefore not the best
> choice as a pattern.
> It is very hard to measure this accurately with the rudder post
> installed.   Does have a drawing or any thoughts about creating one?  This
> would be shared amongst the collective of course!
>
> Dave - 33ii
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> --
>
> Joel Delamirande
>
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Mine is dry. So far.
Wade Glew
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 18:31 Sam Salter via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Flexofold folding 2 blade prop.
> Do you lube it or leave it dry?
> I’ve been leaving it dry but I’m open to suggestions/experience 路‍♂️
>
> sam
> C 26  Liquorice
> Ghost Lake  Alberta
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Non-laminate sails

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

  my 135 roller furler is a 3DI (Nordac) and I think it's brilliant.  Great
shape, great fit first time (which I would like to attribute to my
measuring 5 times).
It's 3 years old and looks like new.  I'm careful not to abuse my sails
though I do sail single handed a lot so it sometimes takes a beating.  Good
rep for longevity; we'll see ...   Would have gotten the 3DI raw
(black is cool!)  or endurance but I don't get enough allowance
..

Wade
Oh Boy 33-2
Lake of the Woods

On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 2:39 PM Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I went through 2 North 3DL #1 genoas over 6 years.  One good year, one
> average year and one lousy year for each sail.  The plastic laminate was a
> poor product for sure.
>
> I bought the North 3DI raw for my #1 & #3 plus mainsail and they are as
> new after 3 full race seasons.  A bit more money but over the long term
> they last and perform.  And the black sails look cool too :)
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 3:08 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> A great segue to my next question for the list:
>>
>> I had my last laminate sail (probably 3-5 in total after the past 15+
>> years) fall apart after ~ 4-5 years of club use in NC (North 3Di) and have
>> decided that my next headsail (155%) will NOT be a laminate. I too have old
>> Dacron sails (90% and 140%) that have not been used much and look/feel like
>> new.
>>
>> My question is--I'd like some opinions from the listers on the material
>> and the sail maker. I am thinking of dacron and North (Nordac).
>>
>> I have had super life out of my Hood main (high denier dacron with
>> Vectran), used now for 10 years and still going. However, the headsail they
>> sold me was never cut correctly, even after I returned it to the loft--so I
>> won't go there, even if Hood still existed.(I think Quantum took over Hood
>> after Ted's passing).
>>
>> I am an active CLUB racer, occasionally doing CRW but very far from
>> 'Grand Prix' racing--but I do have a ORC measurement certificate! Most of
>> my racing is buoy in the NC sounds where the wind rarely gets above 15
>> knots and the temperature rarely is below 70 degrees when racing.
>>
>> At the risk of getting as many suggestions as listers (maybe more!), what
>> do the listers think about non-laminate sail material, cuts, molded, etc.
>> Whatever I settle on will be measured by the sailmaker on the boat.
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Joel Aronson 
>> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 11:13 am
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question
>>
>> Dacron seems to last forever if it is clean dry and out of the sun.  My
>> #1 is from around 1990 and looks like new.  I've used it twice.  PO might
>> have used it occasionally.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 11:04 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I really only have one furling full hoist sail, so it wasn’t that bad. My
>> genoas are deck sweepers and need the furling drum removed and the jib and
>> storm jib are not even close to full hoist.
>> Speaking of, the jib dates to 1973 and the storm jib to 1979. I don’t
>> think either one has been out of their bags in this century!
>> How long do sails last anyway? Maybe they’ll fall apart if used. I don’t
>> think the storm jib has more than 1,000 miles total use ever, but its old.
>> The old working jib got used plenty back in the day. The last time I had
>> that one up was around 1990 in about 50-60 knots running dead downwind.
>> That was a fun day 
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>>
>> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 29, 2021 10:53 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
>> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Furler question
>>
>> The perfect solution to the problem Joe!
>>
>> Depending on the difference between 'too high and too low', finding the
>> sweet spot could be a chore and would likely require different shackle
>> lengths at the deck level for different sails.
>>
>> A proper restrainer allows more 'slop' in the effective luff length
>> without chewing up the halyard/sheave and prevents the wrapping problem.
>> Perhaps not the perfect solution but a good one that works--keeping in mind
>> the adage to '...not let the perfect be the enemy of the good..!'
>>
>> YMMV
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
>> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 8:35 am
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question
>> What I discovered was the overall position of the halyard and top swivel
>> was critical. Assuming you have a full hoist sail and no retainer, you need
>> to adjust the shackle length at deck level to get the halyard as far up as
>> you can without running the nicropress into the sheave. Too high and it
>> chews up the halyard 

Stus-List Re: Bilge leak

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Besides, arent you sailing in fresh water?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Tue, Jan 19, 2021, 14:48 Michael Crombie via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> But in my case the water is actually seeping in through the bilge wall not
> running down into the bilge
>
> On Tue, Jan 19, 2021, 3:36 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey Mike
>>
>> I have a similar issue.  Just remember that all moisture eventually ends
>> up in the bilge.  I think your boat guy meant that if the hatches are
>> leaking the water will end up there.
>>
>> Adam
>>
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>> --
>> *From:* Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 19, 2021 4:26:23 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Michael Crombie 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Bilge leak
>>
>> I'm at a complete loss for ideas on this and would like to ask the group
>> for some suggestions.
>>
>> I have had my C 33 mkii for 6 years now.  There has always been a small
>> leak in the bilge, i.e. water is actually seeping in through the forward
>> bilge wall about half-way down.
>>
>> The bilge is about 2 feet deep and starts about a foot aft of the mast
>> step.
>>
>> The PO had a grounding a couple of years before I bought the boat.  About
>> 2 years after I bought the boat I brought it to Bristol Marine and had the
>> mast step reinforced (this was a know problem with 33's) and they also
>> dropped the keel and then rebedded it.
>>
>> This work stopped the seeping, but it re-appeared a couple of years ago.
>> I sanded and applied barrier coat around the keel stub joint and the keel
>> stub.  This seemed to help, but the water ingress would start again about a
>> month or so after launch.
>>
>> I, and several others, have inspected under the boat after haul-out and
>> none of us have seen any sign of moisture, cracks, C smile, etc.  It
>> looks perfect.
>>
>> The amount of water is small. Maybe a pint glass every 2-3 weeks.
>>
>> One boat repair guy suggested that I re-bed all my hatches.  I didn't
>> understand that at all.
>>
>> I suppose the putty in the keel stub could be compromised. But I still
>> don't understand how water is getting in there.
>>
>> Any ideas on the source of water??
>>
>> I suppose I could just apply some glass to the inside of the bilge, but
>> that doesn't really solve the problem.  Should I drill into the forward end
>> of the bilge to drain the water and then inject some sort of epoxy mix?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your consideration!
>>
>> Mike
>> Atacama, Toronto
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wishing you and yours

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Merry Christamas to you too Stu and Gladys,

I don't contribute much to this group but I seriously enjoy the sharing of
knowledge, the humour, and the reminder that life is not technology;  it's
the people we know and the friendships we cultivate.  Thank you very much
for supporting that in our C community.

Wade
Oh Boy 33-2
Lake of the Woods

On Thu, Dec 24, 2020 at 11:08 AM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Wishing everyone the best for this year’s festive season and a safe and
> healthy 2021.
>
> Stu ‘n’ Gladys
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Americas Cup racing

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

not that I disagree with you in any way Andrew but, regardless of regatta
or class of boat or year of competition, the 7th race between Alinghi and
New Zealand in 2007 is an all time highlight reel that will be played
forever.and never surpassed so matter what boats we choose to race.

merry christmas, Happy Holidays to everyone

Wade
Oh Boy 33-2
Lake of the Woods

On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 9:25 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My humble opinion is that sailboat racing is something you do, not watch.
> In going with foils the organizers are trying to make it interesting to
> watch. I don’t find it so. They are only going 40 mph; speedy for a
> sailboat, but you can practically walk that fast! The part of racing I find
> most interesting—tactics and boat interactions—is missing. In these matches
> they're just banging opposite corners hoping they’ve chosen the right one.
> I think using foils has cost them a large part of their audience. I
> certainly am not watching or caring about the sailing, but with the IACC
> boats I was riveted. The last race in that class came down to the seventh
> race of a seven race finals and the boats finished overlapped! That was
> exciting!
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> > On Dec 22, 2020, at 07:27, Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > I’m in Halifax and I have watched them on YouTube… just search for
> Americas Cup. I’ve watched in real-time but they also have replays of
> various races and discussion shows. Too marvel at the technology!
> >
> > Dean
> >
> > C 34
> > BarraWind
> > Halifax, NS
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Garboard drain

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

it seems the topic of garboard drains came up quite extensively 3-4 years
ago.   I would like to find that thread but when I go to "Archives" in
CNCPhotoalbum there is no search field.  Do I have to click on the "thread"
of every month of every year to search for this?  Tell me there is a better
way ...
Wade Glew
Oh Boy C 33 MK II

On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 9:45 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Nate, I installed a drain last year. I used magnets too and drilled from
> outside. I also used a door drill kit and a drummel  tool and installed the
> drain flush with the hull and faired it with epoxy. If you need pics or
> more information pm me. You can buy flush nylon plugs by sea dog? and don’t
> need to use the big awkward bronze plugs unless you want to. It’s peace of
> mind being on the hard for 6 months. My boat has never been dryer over the
> winter.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 89 37+
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Dear Listers,

As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which
terminates approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't
have a hydraulic backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6")
diameter wheel in the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather
laboriously) to tighten or loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible
when the sails are loaded).  I'm not really a racer (and hydraulics are
expensive) so have pondered the wisdom of swaging a fitting on the rod
backstay and converting it to a split backstay with a Johnson car and
blocks to have a manual tensioning system.   This would increase somewhat
the angle of the backstay and present the issue of finding spots on the
hull or deck to anchor the backstay that would have sufficient strength.
 I have no idea if this would drastically alter the dynamics of the sail
plan or the boat altogether.  I also don't know where on the hull might
have sufficient strength to support the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad
idea?
Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Can you link me to a pic of what the pre filter vacuum guage might look
like?
Wade Oh Boy 33-2

On Fri, May 29, 2020, 9:10 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FYI – it doesn’t hurt to use 2 vacuum gauges, one before the filter and
> one after. I was experiencing high vacuum and shutdowns and after I
> installed the second gauge, I found high vacuum on BOTH of them. It wasn’t
> the filter that was clogged, it was the pickup tube in the tank. The
> filter’s contribution to the problem is the difference between the gauges ;)
>
> My clog turned out to be rubber pieces from the fuel fill hose, it was
> slowly dissolving and dropping bits of rubber into the tank. Sometimes they
> would suck onto the fuel pickup and sometimes they would drop back off.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I*
>
> *www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Wade
> Glew via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 9:52 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Wade Glew 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter
>
>
>
> thanks for this Josh
>
> Wade
>
> Oh Boy 33-2
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 11:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Wade,
>
>
>
> Look at the picture of a 500 series racor in the link below.  The factory
> top has a t handle which is used to tighten the lid.  The vacuum gauge
> which Joe linked replaces that t-handle.  The t arms are not used to sense
> pressure - just for tightening the lid.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/172954061164
>
>
>
> BTW: these 500 series are notorious for being easily over tightened which
> warps the lid and causes leaks.
>
>
>
> The 500 series is 60gph which would be close to 60 times the flow capacity
> required for any one of our engines.  Even with a 2 micron filter I would
> not expect much if any vacuum being formed, though it should be noted that
> the vacuum represents the effort required to "lift" the fuel out of the
> tank AND the effort required to suck the fuel through the filter.  Yanmar
> typically rates their engines for up to 10 feet of lift.  Diesel is 34" per
> psi so 10 feet = ~3.5 psi.  Even with no filter element installed the
> vacuum  for 10 feet of vertical lift of diesel fuel would amount to 100
> inH2O, 3.5psia or 7 inHg.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 24, 2020, 23:03 Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Joe
>
> Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the
> fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the
> T go?  What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to
> change filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
>
> Wade
>
> Oh Boy 33-2
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can
> do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced
> warning when you do need to change one.
>
> Be official:
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0
>
> Cockpit mount with light:
>
> https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/
> <https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=b7f37aed-ea80e98c-b7f3539a-ac1f6b44e86e-4c178e1e039dd85e=1=7cb8c88e-efc3-44b3-82bf-4503afac93d7=https%3A%2F%2Fmoyermarine.com%2Fproduct%2Fvacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532%2F>
> (also can be used for manifold vacuum)
>
> Cheap:
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S
>
>
>
> Joe Coquina C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Time and again I have read that Yanmar does not recommend a 2/3 micron
> primary filter.  I therefore use a 10 micron, and use Biobar, as well as
> some Seafoam.   I have some old crud in my tank, but where I can see it
> through the hole for the sender, the bits I can see are pretty well stuck
> to the bottom of the tank (and there are not many of them).  That said, the
> boat had sat at the dock for +/- 6 years before I got her, and we have run
> 150 gallons or so of fuel through the 

Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thanks for this Josh
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 11:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wade,
>
> Look at the picture of a 500 series racor in the link below.  The factory
> top has a t handle which is used to tighten the lid.  The vacuum gauge
> which Joe linked replaces that t-handle.  The t arms are not used to sense
> pressure - just for tightening the lid.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/172954061164
>
> BTW: these 500 series are notorious for being easily over tightened which
> warps the lid and causes leaks.
>
> The 500 series is 60gph which would be close to 60 times the flow capacity
> required for any one of our engines.  Even with a 2 micron filter I would
> not expect much if any vacuum being formed, though it should be noted that
> the vacuum represents the effort required to "lift" the fuel out of the
> tank AND the effort required to suck the fuel through the filter.  Yanmar
> typically rates their engines for up to 10 feet of lift.  Diesel is 34" per
> psi so 10 feet = ~3.5 psi.  Even with no filter element installed the
> vacuum  for 10 feet of vertical lift of diesel fuel would amount to 100
> inH2O, 3.5psia or 7 inHg.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 24, 2020, 23:03 Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Joe
>> Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the
>> fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the
>> T go?  What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to
>> change filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy 33-2
>>
>> On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you
>>> can do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get
>>> advanced warning when you do need to change one.
>>>
>>> Be official:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0
>>>
>>> Cockpit mount with light:
>>>
>>> https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/ (also
>>> can be used for manifold vacuum)
>>>
>>> Cheap:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe Coquina C 35 MK I
>>>
>>>
>>> On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Time and again I have read that Yanmar does not recommend a 2/3 micron
>>> primary filter.  I therefore use a 10 micron, and use Biobar, as well as
>>> some Seafoam.   I have some old crud in my tank, but where I can see it
>>> through the hole for the sender, the bits I can see are pretty well stuck
>>> to the bottom of the tank (and there are not many of them).  That said, the
>>> boat had sat at the dock for +/- 6 years before I got her, and we have run
>>> 150 gallons or so of fuel through the boat in the last 4 years.
>>>
>>> I change my Racor every year, and I used to change the one on the engine
>>> every year as well.  This time, I'm going to let the engine mounted one go
>>> another year.  We still get a fine layer of black "grit" at the bottom of
>>> the racor over the year, but it does not appear to hinder the running of
>>> the engine.
>>>
>>> I'd rather swap out a $20 filter once a year than risk the engine
>>> shutting down as I go through a bridge opening with 3 kts. of current.
>>>
>>> To each their own,
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi Joe
Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go in the
fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the threaded base of the
T go?  What is a normal pressure? What pressure reading makes you decide to
change filters?  Are the lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
Wade
Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements you can
> do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes and get advanced
> warning when you do need to change one.
>
> Be official:
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0
>
> Cockpit mount with light:
>
> https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/ (also can
> be used for manifold vacuum)
>
> Cheap:
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S
>
>
> Joe Coquina C 35 MK I
>
>
> On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Time and again I have read that Yanmar does not recommend a 2/3 micron
> primary filter.  I therefore use a 10 micron, and use Biobar, as well as
> some Seafoam.   I have some old crud in my tank, but where I can see it
> through the hole for the sender, the bits I can see are pretty well stuck
> to the bottom of the tank (and there are not many of them).  That said, the
> boat had sat at the dock for +/- 6 years before I got her, and we have run
> 150 gallons or so of fuel through the boat in the last 4 years.
>
> I change my Racor every year, and I used to change the one on the engine
> every year as well.  This time, I'm going to let the engine mounted one go
> another year.  We still get a fine layer of black "grit" at the bottom of
> the racor over the year, but it does not appear to hinder the running of
> the engine.
>
> I'd rather swap out a $20 filter once a year than risk the engine shutting
> down as I go through a bridge opening with 3 kts. of current.
>
> To each their own,
>
> Bruce
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

commendable task; here you go

Wade Glew - Oh Boy - C 33 MK II - 1986 - Sail no. 33011 -
wadeg...@gmail.com - Kenora Ontario, Canada.

and you don't have to feel bad for us up here; hockey season has started
and that's a great thing!  Not to mention, when my hockey gear starts to
smell bad, no need to figure that out - turf it !!

Wade

On Thu, Oct 3, 2019 at 3:53 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin
> board / photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that
> will act as a supplement and perhaps one day, *only* when Stu says he’s
> no longer interested in continuing on, act as a replacement to the service
> we are using now.
>
> I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a
> moment, please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct
> email to me) with the following information:
>
> Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address /
> Home Port
>
> For example:
> Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /
> e...@schillay.com / Venice Island, FL
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter
> haul-out and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List The Low drag Prop saga is over!

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Mine is a 2 blade Bruce
Wade

On Mon, Sep 23, 2019, 21:39 bwhitmore via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> In each of the cases noted about Flex o Fold, are we talking about the 3
> blade or two blade models?  The recommend a 3 blade for my 37/40 with a
> Yanmar 3JH2E.
>
> Looking forward to your thoughts,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List The Low drag Prop saga is over!

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi Everyone,

been following the folding prop thread with interest.  I had a Michegan
Sailor 16 x 10 R fixed prop for 10 years.  It was fine for all purposes
except sailing where it was like towing a drogue.  I changed this year to a
FlexoFold 16 x 11 and my observations are these:

1. FlexoFold has a bit more vibration across the rpm spectrum but not much
and I can live with that if it gets the job done.  Install was a breeze
which means I didn't have to hire anyone.
2. with the Michegan sailor at 2200 - 2400 rpm I would cruise in relatively
flat water at 5-5.2 knots.  With the FlexoFold I now cruise (same RPM)  at
6 - 6.3 knots.  I haven't tried for maximum RPM
3. reverse seems fine though not heavily tested in wind etc.
4. sailing, particularly in light winds feels like a different boat with
the FlexoFold (in a positive way!)

My question is what is the resultant engine change with this different
prop?  Knowing that Yanmar diesels like to be worked hard, is this
FlexoFold prop with faster boat speed but same RPM making my engine work
harder or not?  Do I have to drive the rpm higher?  Should I care about any
of this?

many thanks,Wade

ps.  incidentally, I took off, cleaned, tef gelled and reconnected every
wire I could find on the boat and my electrical system is dreamy again
.  thanks to all :-)

On Thu, Sep 19, 2019 at 11:46 AM Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A couple more points.
>
> First I want to mention that what ultimately helped me get through
> the ordeal was Chuck Scheafer and this list.
>
> I knew from having actually motored on Chuck's boat and that the Max Prop
> would work well.  I went for the Flex O fold mostly because it was over
> $1,000 cheaper and appeared to have less drag.
>
> Chuck also put me in touch with another 34+ owner who's got a Flex-O-Fold
> installed.  I called him / he has the same 16 X 12 Flex o Fold I was sent
> and he also thought it was over-pitched. He can't get more than 2900-3000
> RPM either. He also told me he's replaced his engine mounts and  has to
> replace his cutlass bearing every other year.  After that conversation I
> knew I had to get a different prop.
>
> As for the comment about 2,850 RPM being an ideal RPM for the 3GM 30F
> that's true.  It's the ideal cruising RPM. as stated by Yanmar in the
> manual
>
> However, according to Yanmar's dyno testing graph the engine  makes 16 HP
> on the "Propeller Power Curve" at 2850 RPM.  The engine needs 3,400 RPM to
> make it's max rating of 24 HP "Propeller Power".  If it's struggling to get
> to 3000 in good weather, you might get to 2,700 - 2,800 in a stiff headwind
> and waves. Personally, I would not want to be in a storm with an engine
> struggling to make 16 HP  "Propeller power" pushing a 13,000 lbs 36 ft boat
> through rough waters...
>
> - Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bimini top with solar panels?

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

yeah this looks really good and out of the way altogether.  Nice job Andy
Wade

On Mon, Sep 23, 2019 at 7:16 PM sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andy,
> Your panel install looks great.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> C LF39
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC wa.
>
>  Original message 
> From: Andrew Walther via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/23/19 13:27 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Walther 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bimini top with solar panels?
>
> Hi there - I forgot to attach pictures to my last post regarding solar
> panels...
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/1sMor7GoNWHbobY77
>
> Andy
> 33-2 (Tryfan)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Sent: September 22, 2019 9:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 164, Issue 53
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
> "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List Bimini top with solar panels?

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

would love to see a photo of your setup Andy

Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MK II

On Mon, Sep 23, 2019 at 3:05 PM Andrew Walther via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi there,
>
> Not exactly what you're looking for but I laboured over the flexible /
> rigid panel installation and finally went with flexible.  I thought others
> may be interested also.
>
> - 2 x 100 watt panels
> - 2 x nylon straps pulled tight side to side over the bimini
> - panel edges protected covered with pipe insulation to protect bimini
> - panels zap strapped to bimini
> - pool noodle squeezed over front edge of panels to "flatten" the fore-aft
> profile
>
> 5 minutes to remove and 10 minutes to replace.  I leave them on April to
> November and will stow below for the winter.
>
> Andy
> 33-2
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Sent: September 21, 2019 9:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 164, Issue 52
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
> "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Is the Amsoil you use synthetic Josh?
Wade

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 17:05 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One of the biggest reasons an oil "wears out" is that the acids build up
> and the oil's pH is too low.  If you know the starting base number you can
> track it and predict when it will be "exhausted".  I use Amsoil Marine
> Diesel Oil 10w40.  It has a TBN of 12 and I send samples off to be
> analyzed.  There are lots of different parameters checked and any one of
> them can create call for an oil change.  The recommendation comes back from
> the lab in about a week and the service costs about $25 including
> shipping.  This is almost the exact same service that we do on the three
> 3.5Mw and two 5 Mw diesel generators where I work.  We only change the oil
> after a major overhaul.  You don't have to use Amsoil to use the analysis
> service.  As I recall I haven't changed the oil in almost 3 years.
>
> Here is a copy of my last report.
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Thanks. Can I use a multi grade (say 10W-40) instead of the 30W recommended
in the engine manual?  Operating temp range here is 10-30 C (50-90 F)
Wade

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 14:37 John Irvin via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Would not hesitate.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
> Yanmar 2GM?
> >
> > Wade
> > Oh Boy 33 MK II
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 Yanmar
2GM?

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

I got this kit (included frames, mounting hardware and new plexi windows)
from  Dan Boisvert @ fixleakyboats.com for my 33-2 in 2009.  Since removal
of the old windows and installing the new ones was a skill I hoped to never
use again, and because I wanted someone to complain to besides myself if
the new ones leaked, I had the fibreglass shop at my Marina install them.
The new windows have stood up well for 10 years.   Having said that, I have
friends in my harbour with a C 32 who ordered the kit and the very same
fibreglass shop had a bit##@ch of a time getting them to fit and they
complained that the support from Dan was poor.  After removal of the old
windows, the new plexi is put into place with sealant and the frame
provides compression to the seal  by numerous through screws with wing nuts
on the inside of the cabin.  Once cured, the frames outside are calked, the
wing nuts inside are removed and white nylon cap nuts are placed over the
screws.  Looks good from outside.  It's not an awful look inside but the
nuts are noticeable (to me, no one else has ever commented on them) and the
shop had to re-install the accordian curtains a little higher to clear the
nylon cap nuts.  Overall, the cost and new appearance was well worth having
a dry boat.  Cost for the kit in 2009 was about $1500 CDN.
I haven't looked at his website to see if there are other reviews so this
is my personal experience with these kits

Wade
Oh Boy  C 33 MK II

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:07 AM Tom Lynch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone tried or have any experience with the DIY window repair kit
> that Dan Boisvert sells @ fixleakyboats.com?   His product uses a custom
> fabricated marine aluminum window frame which is installed with the
> existing acrylic window.
>
> He posts in the C Facebook group.
>
> Tom Lynch
> IndoIrish C 33 MKII
> Bayfield WI
>
> On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 8:50 PM Dave via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of
>> info on adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the
>> material.
>>
>> I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please
>> confirm the thickness?  (Mine are leaking, but still installed)
>>
>> I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate .
>> (Can’t locate the post). Any thoughts?
>>
>> Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite
>> crazed) hatches?
>>
>> Many Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Dave
>> Windstar 33-2
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

iately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
>>> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly
>>> become undersized quickly too.
>>>
>>> Jeff Helsdingen
>>> Caposhi
>>> C 35 mk 1 #54
>>> Port Stanley On.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>>
>>>> — Fred
>>>>
>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>>
>>>> Dennis C.
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>>>>> electrical issue du jour.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring
>>>>> system.  Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5
>>>>> years old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>>>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>>>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days 
>>>>> out
>>>>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>>>>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>>>>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>>>>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>>>>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to 
>>>>> Bat
>>>>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>>>>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>>>>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>>>>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>>>>> the engine.
>>>>>
>>>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand
>>>>> new 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight
>>>>> then left for a few more days on the water.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>>>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
>>>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
>>>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
>>>>> both batteries.
>>>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
>>>>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
>>>>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
>>>>> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
>>>>> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
>>>>> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
>>>>> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
>>>>> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
>>>>> slowly.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
>>>>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
>>>>> appreciate any suggestions
>>>>>
>>>>> Wade
>>>>> Oh Boy, C 33 MK II
>>>>>
>>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Got it. Makes sense as I visualize the scene. Thanks
Wade

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019, 20:34 Jim Watts via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Yes. The geometry doesn't work unless the sheet is led underneath the
> lifelines too. Easier to use a second sheet led through a block on the
> toerail.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Wed, 21 Aug 2019 at 15:43, Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> good pic John; thanks.   Is there a reason the twing line can't be
>> attached outside the lifeline?
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy, C 33 MK II
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 11:09 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I use a simple twing setup...easy to attach, easy to trim, cheap. Up to
>>> the point where you need to rig a second sheet outboard of the lifelines,
>>> anyhow.
>>> https://i.imgur.com/EwjDofL.jpg
>>>
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, 21 Aug 2019 at 09:02, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> John:
>>>>
>>>> Yes, leave the jib sheet attached.  Also, if you don’t like the
>>>> position you get attaching the barber hauler line to the clew, you can also
>>>> attach it to the jib sheet itself to deflect it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 21, 2019 11:30 AM
>>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> *Cc:* John Conklin 
>>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles
>>>>
>>>> All makes sense
>>>> Based on replies Plan is to attach snatch block to toe rail mast area
>>>> have the sheet run to and tied off at my extra winch on one end thru block
>>>> and clipped off to upper lifeline tensioned to not flip around
>>>> When reaching will attach this second line to clew  (leaving jib sheet
>>>> attached??) and this should move clew outward the open the slot !
>>>> Let try it !!
>>>>
>>>> Thanks all!
>>>>
>>>> John Conklin
>>>> S/V Halcyon
>>>> S/V Heartbeat
>>>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>>>
>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

good pic John; thanks.   Is there a reason the twing line can't be attached
outside the lifeline?
Wade
Oh Boy, C 33 MK II

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 11:09 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use a simple twing setup...easy to attach, easy to trim, cheap. Up to
> the point where you need to rig a second sheet outboard of the lifelines,
> anyhow.
> https://i.imgur.com/EwjDofL.jpg
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Wed, 21 Aug 2019 at 09:02, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> John:
>>
>> Yes, leave the jib sheet attached.  Also, if you don’t like the
>> position you get attaching the barber hauler line to the clew, you can also
>> attach it to the jib sheet itself to deflect it.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* John Conklin via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 21, 2019 11:30 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* John Conklin 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles
>>
>> All makes sense
>> Based on replies Plan is to attach snatch block to toe rail mast area
>> have the sheet run to and tied off at my extra winch on one end thru block
>> and clipped off to upper lifeline tensioned to not flip around
>> When reaching will attach this second line to clew  (leaving jib sheet
>> attached??) and this should move clew outward the open the slot !
>> Let try it !!
>>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>> John Conklin
>> S/V Halcyon
>> S/V Heartbeat
>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List barber haulers and whisker poles

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Can I ask Barry, is the barber hauler sheet on the Genoa  Lew led to the
snap shackle from outside the lifelines or inside?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019, 15:30 Barry Lenoble via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey,
>
> Generally, the whisker pole is used if you are sailing downwind and the
> barber hauler if you are reaching.
>
> On my boat, if I am doing a windward / leeward race, we will have genoa and
> mainsail in tight for upwind work. Once we round the mark and head downwind
> we will run wing and wing with the whisker pole holding out the genoa. We
> try to have the main on the port side of the boat and the genoa on the
> starboard side so we are on starboard and have rights over port tack
> boats.
>
> If I'm sailing on a broad reach, anything from 50 degrees to 100 degrees
> apparent wind, I will use a barber hauler. It's just an old jib sheet and
> snap shackle. The shackle is connected to the toe rail and the line tied to
> the clew of the sail. Then I take in the barber hauler and ease off the
> sheet. This allows the clew to move outwards but not up. Depending on the
> wind angle the shackle will be moved forward or aft.
>
> On a reach you can sail significantly faster if the sheet lead is in the
> right position. Use an old block and an old sheet and experiment. You will
> quickly see the benefits.
>
> Good luck,
> Barry
>
>
> Barry Lenoble
> leno...@optonline.net
> Deep Blue C, C 110
> Mt. Sinai, NY
>
>
>
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> I have been reading about Barber Haulers to help with reaching by getting
> the clew further outboard and keeping the leech from twisting off.  I was
> thinking of a snatch block on the toe rail and a line snap shackled to the
> clew attachment point to accomplish this.  However, I have also seen people
> using their whisker pole on the leeward side to hold the genoa clew
> outboard
> and up.  Has anyone compared these options?  The pole seems more of a
> hassle, but should be more effective.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Dennis,
Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the
surfaces after all connections are made?  Would Superlube work the same?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative,
> clean them and reconnect them.  Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems
> TefGel (
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
> and coat the connections with it.  Clean both ends of the cables.
>
> Like Fred said, measuring voltage is only part of the story.  You're
> really looking for current.  A corroded connection may show adequate
> voltage but may be incapable of passing enough current to start your engine.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:34 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> thanks you.
>>
>> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
>>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
>> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
>> with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
>> banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
>> stuff so be specific if you can.
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>>>> electrical issue du jour.
>>>>
>>>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
>>>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
>>>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
>>>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>>>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>>>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>>>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>>>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
>>>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>>>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>>>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>>>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>>>> the engine.
>>>>
>>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
>>>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
>>>> left for a few more days on the water.
>>>>
>>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
>>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
>>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
>>>> both batteries.
>>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
>>>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
>>>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
>>>> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
>>>> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
>>>> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
>>>> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thank you to all who responded to my email.  I wont be back to the boat for
a couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and
suggestions of a plan to go forwards.  Thanks again, will let you know how
it goes
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MK II

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 2 cents.
> Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad
> connection, likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal house
> circuits cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another bad
> connection but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop the
> voltage enough that things stop working but the start current drops the
> voltage to much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with low
> amps there is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the current
> and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm resistance
> and your gonna drop 6V.  Put a voltmeter there with no load it will read
> 12V.
> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at
> the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the
> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
> issue is in the hot path.
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Jeff Helsdingen 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all
>> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery
>> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem
>> I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
>> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly
>> become undersized quickly too.
>>
>> Jeff Helsdingen
>> Caposhi
>> C 35 mk 1 #54
>> Port Stanley On.
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>>>> electrical issue du jour.
>>>>
>>>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
>>>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
>>>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
>>>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>>>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>>>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>>>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>>>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
>>>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>>>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>>>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>>>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>>>> the engine.
>>>>
>>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
>>>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
>>>> left for a few more days on the water.
>>>>
>>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
>>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
>>>> When under engine and Main Switch 

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

That's a cool system. You have one of these posts grounded to the other
then to engine ground, or each has its own grounding wire?
Wade

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 17:34 Dennis C. via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Yep.  I have a couple of these on Touche'.  One is used as a central
> ground and is grounded to the engine via a battery cable.
>
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2101/PowerPost_Plus_-_1_4in-20_Stud
>
> In general, you can stack battery cables on the center post and use the
> screws for smaller wires.  Just be aware of what size screws (studs) you
> need.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 4:53 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Doesn't there have to be a grounding wire from the bus bar to the engine
>> anyways?  Then all grounds would go to this bus bar correct?
>> Wade
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 15:36 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List, <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Even better, get something like these for ship’s ground instead of the
>>> engine:
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-PowerBar-BusBar/dp/B00H8L5AKE
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Power-Connnector/dp/B000K2IKZA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=blue+sea+power=1565728515=gateway=8-1
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> Coquina
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave
>>> S via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 13, 2019 3:38 PM
>>> *To:* Wade Glew 
>>> *Cc:* Dave S ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Wade,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The main and most troublesome grounding point on my 33-2 was the stud on
>>> the engine behind the starter motor.My suggestion (also) is to start
>>> there.   All clean, corrosion free and solid contact.  This was my first
>>> trouble spot and most impactful.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Wade Glew  wrote:
>>>
>>> thanks you.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
>>>
>>>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
>>> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
>>> with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
>>> banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
>>> stuff so be specific if you can.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Wade
>>>
>>> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>>> electrical issue du jour.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
>>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
>>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
>>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power. 

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Thanks Jeff,
I'll do that.
This boat had had a number of upgrades electrically by the man who owned it
for 15 years before me. I've upgraded nothing in the electrical systems in
the past 10 years. Still, lots of vibration over many years
Wade

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 17:48 Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all
> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery
> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem
> I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly
> become undersized quickly too.
>
> Jeff Helsdingen
> Caposhi
> C 35 mk 1 #54
> Port Stanley On.
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>>> electrical issue du jour.
>>>
>>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
>>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
>>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
>>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
>>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>>> the engine.
>>>
>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
>>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
>>> left for a few more days on the water.
>>>
>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
>>> both batteries.
>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
>>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
>>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
>>> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
>>> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
>>> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
>>> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
>>> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
>>> slowly.
>>>
>>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
>>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
>>> appreciate any suggestions
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy, C 33 MK II
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Doesn't there have to be a grounding wire from the bus bar to the engine
anyways?  Then all grounds would go to this bus bar correct?
Wade

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 15:36 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Even better, get something like these for ship’s ground instead of the
> engine:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-PowerBar-BusBar/dp/B00H8L5AKE
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Power-Connnector/dp/B000K2IKZA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=blue+sea+power=1565728515=gateway=8-1
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave
> S via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 13, 2019 3:38 PM
> *To:* Wade Glew 
> *Cc:* Dave S ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>
>
>
> Wade,
>
>
>
> The main and most troublesome grounding point on my 33-2 was the stud on
> the engine behind the starter motor.My suggestion (also) is to start
> there.   All clean, corrosion free and solid contact.  This was my first
> trouble spot and most impactful.
>
>
>
> Dave.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Wade Glew  wrote:
>
> thanks you.
>
>
>
> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
>
>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
> with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
> banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
> stuff so be specific if you can.
>
>
>
> Wade
>
> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
>
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Clean all the ground connections.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
> electrical issue du jour.
>
>
>
> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
> the engine.
>
>
>
> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
> left for a few more days on the water.
>
>
>
> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>
> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see normal
> charging voltages to both battery banks.
>
> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
> both batteries.
>
> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
> slowly.
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a sing

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thanks you.

Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
 if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
stuff so be specific if you can.

Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MK II

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Clean all the ground connections.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>> electrical issue du jour.
>>
>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>> the engine.
>>
>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
>> left for a few more days on the water.
>>
>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see normal
>> charging voltages to both battery banks.
>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
>> both batteries.
>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
>> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
>> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
>> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
>> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
>> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
>> slowly.
>>
>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
>> appreciate any suggestions
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy, C 33 MK II
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
electrical issue du jour.

Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
the engine.

I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
left for a few more days on the water.

Now, the current circumstance is this.
When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see normal
charging voltages to both battery banks.
When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to both
batteries.
After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are resting
at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link 20.  When I
try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery power.  The
engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1 or ALL and
won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V electrical activity
on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable battery pack onto my
starter battery with the switch in the ALL position, the engine will go
however, it still feels like the starter is turning too slowly.

I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
appreciate any suggestions

Wade
Oh Boy, C 33 MK II


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

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Re: Stus-List Windstar 33-2 blog update - improving ventilation in the 33-2 cabin

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hey Dave, doesn't the dorade vent through the anchor locker make your
v-berth smell like wet / muddy anchor rode?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 06:55 Dave S via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> FYI and for the record.
>
>
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/07/33-2-ventilation-strategies.html
>
>
>
> Dave
>
> Windstar 33-2
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Advice needed on Wheel nut and high water alarm

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi Mike

I got a large knurled nut (external diameter equals the hub) from Edson.
It will still come loose with some vibration over a day but I can tighten
it way harder (and easier!) than with the previous smaller plastic hex
nut.  Also easier to remove by hand.  It's a pretty good look too!  I also
notice on-line that large metal knurled nuts are available from a number of
manufacturers in a variety of thread counts.  Likely all you need and I
expect less expensive than Edson.  Doesn't eliminate the problem but it's
way better and  better is good

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods


Virus-free.
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<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 9:20 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi and Happy Father’s Day to all Father’s.  I have a couple of questions
> for the list:
>
> 1.The wheel nut on my Edson wheel is constantly loosening itself while
> sailing.  Does anyone have a good fix for this problem so it is removable
> but does not loosen itself?
>
> 2.  I am planning to install a high water alarm as required by my
> insurance company.  Is there any guidance as to the most apprpriate height
> for placing the sensor?  Below flooring?  Above flooring?  I already have a
> emergency float switch under the floorboards near the top of the curve of
> the hull ( above the top of the bilge) so not sure how this sensor should
> relate to that switch.
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winch Overhaul

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

a 1 gallon plastic ice cream bucket also works very well for winch
overhaul.   Cut a smaller hole then an X in the bottom and push it over the
winch before you start.  Another ice cream bucket is perfect for solvent to
clean the winch bearings, pauls etc so they can't get away in the process.
Placing the lid over the top is good if you have to interrupt for rain or a
beer or more ice cream.

Wade
Oh Boy, C 33 Mk II

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 8:35 PM Marc Boyd via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That's a great idea to use a shoebox.
>
> Does anyone know what size of pawls a Lewmar 42 winch Takes? I believe
> there are small and large available and can't seem to find which of these
> are for the 42 model.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Marc.
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 10:31 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Others already chimed in on how to do it. One advice – take a old
>> shoebox, cut a round opening in the bottom and put the box over the winch
>> when you disassemble. The small parts have propensity to swim. The box can
>> save you a few days (waiting for delivery of replacement parts).
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> *From:* Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 23, 2019 06:20
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Raymond Macklin
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Winch Overhaul
>>
>> 1985 C 33-2 and I am looking to do maintenance on two Barient 23 Winch,
>> Number 3985340.  I have never taken apart one.  I am reaching out for
>> advise and guidance, instructions, part replacements , grease brand and any
>> other help in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ray
>> LakeHouse
>> Milwaukee, WI .
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> marc.
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>
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Transom cracks

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

My 33 Mk II is an 86 with single backstay
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Sun, Apr 21, 2019, 21:31 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Catching back up on the list.
> Do the '86 and '87 C 33s have a split backstay? Caught a reference to it
> in an old article in Practical Sailor. I wonder if that makes any
> difference to the transom?
> Both '33s here are '85s with a single backstay. And both cracked
> similarity.
> Brad
> Pulse C 33 MKII
> Lake Huron
>
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Strange Weather, Eh?

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Sunny and hot here in Winnipeg!

Wade Glew
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Thu, Mar 14, 2019, 13:52 Randy Stafford via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yesterday in eastern Colorado we had a bomb cyclone, over land, at about
> 38 degrees north latitude.  All-time records were set for lowest
> atmospheric pressure ever recorded in several locations.  The center of the
> low was at about 37.5 degrees north latitude, 102 degrees west longitude,
> at Manter, Kansas just east of the Colorado border.  Category 2
> hurricane-strength winds were recorded in northeast Colorado while snow was
> falling, creating a snowicane.  The system consisted of a cold air mass
> moving southeast from Canada, swirling with moist warm air moving up from
> the Gulf of Mexico.  Of course that created nasty blizzard conditions in
> the northwest quadrant of the cyclone over the Colorado plains including
> the Denver metropolitan area.  All ground and air travel in eastern
> Colorado was shut down and is just recovering today.  This was a rare
> meteorological event; I’ve never seen anything like it in my lifetime here.
>
> I’ve uploaded a screenshot of http://hint.fm/wind/ taken at about 11:00
> MDT last night to
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1biBx_8VUDGuU_GtEgmYIr1nWGhIDFGGq which
> clearly shows the counter-clockwise rotation in the national wind pattern.
> This article
> https://weather.com/safety/winter/news/2019-03-13-bomb-cyclone-winter-storm-ulmer
>  describes
> the details of the bomb cyclone.
>
> Time to go remove snow from by boat again.  I’m so done with this winter
> already.  Good thing I’m doing a BVI charter in two weeks :)
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
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>
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Re: Stus-List soft shackles

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

merci beaucoup!

Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MK II

On Mon, Mar 4, 2019 at 3:23 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 4, 2019, 12:29 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>> some time ago there were some comments on the use of soft shackles to
>> join genoa sheets to the genoa clew.  This idea sounds really interesting
>> to me but having browsed Amazon, I realize I don't know what working
>> strength of soft shackle I need to buy.  My  C is a 33 MK II with I
>> dimension of 44.5 ft (13.56 m) and J dimension of 13.9 ft (3.99 m).  I
>> have  a 135 furling genoa.  Would anyone please help me to choose the
>> proper strength shackle?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy, 33 MK II
>> Lake of the Woods
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
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Stus-List soft shackles

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi Listers,

some time ago there were some comments on the use of soft shackles to join
genoa sheets to the genoa clew.  This idea sounds really interesting to me
but having browsed Amazon, I realize I don't know what working strength of
soft shackle I need to buy.  My  C is a 33 MK II with I dimension of 44.5
ft (13.56 m) and J dimension of 13.9 ft (3.99 m).  I have  a 135 furling
genoa.  Would anyone please help me to choose the proper strength shackle?

Wade
Oh Boy, 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Transom cracks

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

I have not seen this on any of the four C 33 MKII in my harbour Brad.
These boats are all 1986/87 hulls
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 10:36 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our 33-2 has a crack on either side of the cut-out seat area on the
> transom, had a look at the other 33-2 here and it's cracked the same. Are
> there other C that are cracked here? Has anyone successfully fixed or
> reinforced these cracks? Ours has been repaired in the past,
> unsuccessfully. I think it might be related to the backstay tension, just
> my gut feeling. Any thoughts welcome.
> Thanks
> Brad
> 1985 C 33-2 Pulse
> Lake Huron
>
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Wouldn't the use of Spartite make it difficult at a later date to make any
fine adjustments of the the mast rake to change the center of
effort/weather helm?

Wade Glew
Oh Boy 33-2
Lake of the Woods


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On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 9:29 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Buy a can of Spartite, forget the wedges.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Steven
> A. Demore via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 06, 2019 9:58 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Steven A. Demore
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mast Wedge Help
>
>
>
> I had my C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The boat
> came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get
> through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger
> what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn’t sure whether C
> came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the factory
> used to support the mast through the deck?
>
> Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking
> on the mast?  I’m replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all
> of the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step.
> The boom has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the
> main, but I don’t know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not.
>
>
>
> One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum
> ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended against it because
> of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have thought on whether a
> series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
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Re: Stus-List Can recommend it

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

What in the world does this have to do with a CNC sailboat list?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33

On Mon, Jan 28, 2019, 14:39 Allan Rheaume via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> http://credible.super-40.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Allan Rheaume
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Some Sunday morning reading. Rogue Wave, the whole story.

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Wow.  Thanks Ken,  Makes me wonder how I would perform in a circumstance
like this, and pray that I will never need to.

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Sun, Jan 27, 2019 at 6:05 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good morning.  Grab a coffee (or two), sit back, relax, and read a little
> about the storied C's of the past.
>
> Many of you have likely seen the much abridged version of this story on
> Stu's C Photo album.  This is the full, six-page eyewitness story, from
> Sail Magazine, published back in August of 1976.  There are some sections
> of this that are hard to read, this wasn't a pleasure trip once the Rogue
> Wave came through.
>
> This week's installment:
> https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/roguewave-by-aulan-fitzpatrick-360.html
> *RogueWave* by Aulan Fitzpatrick
> *360-degree roll sweeps*
> *Sorcery **clean*
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
> https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon speed / depth / wind system

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

How old is this Standard Horizon system John
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Mon, Jan 7, 2019, 21:09 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Santa was very nice to me this year (many thanks Fred for all your help)
> so am selling our old system.  Details are at
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Horizon-Wind-Speed-Depth-System-100-150-series/292908919859
>
>
>
> Great for an economical starter system or parts for an existing system
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Hull products

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Is hdrochloric acid bad for the gel coat?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, 12:10 dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> In salt water it comes from iron and manganese ions ever present same as
> you see at the watervlines in some toiler bowls that is  why hydrchloric
> acid containing toilet
> bowl cleaners work like magic
>
> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 9:28 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Brian
>>
>> I have been told this is from Tanins in the water.  We had a white
>> gelcoat (not painted) boat in an area where a larger river and swamp
>> emptied into a bay.  Especially at the bow this brownish/greenish stain was
>> very noticeable.  The product On and Off (oxylic acid I believe) tool the
>> stain off very easily.  Unfortunately it comes back very quickly.  I was
>> informed this was due to the porous nature of the gelcoat.  The prevention
>> for this was waxing the hull esp at the waterline with a high quality wax.
>> Once we started being diligent with the waxing the problem went away.
>>
>> ... and when I say came back quickly I mean very quickly.  We were
>> visiting Charlottetown, PEI for a regatta and took advantage of their crane
>> to haul to clean bottom.  While out I scrubbed the hull above waterline
>> with On and Off and removed the tannin staining.  Charlottetown Harbour is
>> where three good sized rivers meet.  The stain was back in a bit over 24
>> hours.
>>
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brien
>> Sadler via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2018 1:59 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Brien Sadler
>> Subject: Stus-List Hull products
>>
>> I’m looking for suggestions on a product to remove the the brown stain
>> from my water line. Also, any recommendations on hull wax as well.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brien Sadler
>> TAZ
>> 1987 C 35-3
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thanks Josh
I notice Sea Hawk is a 1989 boat.   My boat is a 1986 with Yanmar 2GM20F so
we are close in years.  No issues with synthetic in older engines?
Also, do you put in any oil additives routinely?

thanks,Wade

Oh Boy
C 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods

On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 5:30 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, fully synthetic.
>
> Evidently in the early 70's Amsoil started developing and marketing
> synthetic oil.  Mobile came out and tried to compete but made an inferior
> product.  Unfortunately the public already knew and used Mobile products so
> when the Mobile synthetic didn't deliver on their promises, it made a bad
> name for synthetics as a whole.  As the story goes, Amsoil came to mobile
> and proposed to show them how to make a synthetic so that the technology
> would be embraced.
>
> Amsoil has been pioneering ultra efficient oils and extended interval oil
> changes for almost 50 years.  Under the older engine technology they would
> simply have you change the filter and top up the sump, no change until
> 25,000 miles.  As the engine and filter tech improved they have now shifted
> slightly to an entirely 25k run on the same oil and filter depending on the
> application.  In addition to their extended oil change interval they also
> promote oil sample analysis.  You can detect all manner of internal wear
> and deterioration of the oil and the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:11 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> is this a synthetic oil Josh?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy C 33MKII
>> Lake of the Woods
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
>>> duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
>>> in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
>>> analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
>>> soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
>>> is exhausted.
>>>
>>> It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand
>>> the changes and what they mean about engine health.  Kinda like a blood
>>> test for your engine.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 3:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
>>>> What you use?
>>>>
>>>> Fred Hazzard
>>>> S/V Fury
>>>> C 44
>>>> Portland Or
>>>> ___
>>>>
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>>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>>
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>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

is this a synthetic oil Josh?

Wade
Oh Boy C 33MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
> duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
> in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
> analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
> soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
> is exhausted.
>
> It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand the
> changes and what they mean about engine health.  Kinda like a blood test
> for your engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 3:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
>> What you use?
>>
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List Baby stay (bs) bs

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

are you speaking specifically of C 34's in this comment?  My boat is a 33
MKII and I wonder if I might be able to do without my baby stay?   I am 80%
cruiser, 20% racer on Lake of the Woods in Ontario so big seas are not
something I have to deal with.  What would I sacrifice without the baby
stay?

many thanks,
Wade
Oh Boy, C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 7:29 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We supplied the boats with Baby Stays, knowing that the mast could be
> tuned with a bit of bend so that it was not needed.  However, when the boat
> was brand new, on the first sail, and not tuned yet, things could go
> south.  So, we kept them on the boats.
>
> In a violent seaway they do stabilize a pumping mast . . . .
>
>
>
> Rob BallC 34
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Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

this looks good Josh though I fear the Alpine Butterfly knot would catch on
my baby stay the same way my continuous genoa sheet (secured to clew with
luggage tag knot) does now.  I would love to remove the baby stay but I
can't find any information on rig stability if I were to do so.  Any
opinions/wisdom from listers regarding giving the baby the boot?

Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 3:32 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I haven't had to replace my jibsheets.  When I do this is how I'll do it.
>
>
> https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 7, 2018, 3:57 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Does anyone use a shackle for their genoa sheets instead of a knot? If
>> so, how big? What type? What kind of breaking strength?
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing
a folding propeller?

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM
Gear Ratio is 2, 62
current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R
propeller for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15"
x 12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately
the same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)
I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

I would appreciate any opinions

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thanks for this Sam  Wade

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On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 12:55 PM Sam Salter via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yanmar 2GM20F:
>
> Lub oil: Wix 51334 (NAPA 51334) / Fram PH3593A / Purolator L14459
> Primary fuel strainer: Wix 33166 / Baldwin BF825
>
> sam
> C$C 26  Liquorice
> Ghost Lake  Alberta
>
> On Nov 3, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>> LH39
>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thank you for this Josh
Wade

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On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 12:51 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Probably.  Or you can just look it up ahead of time.
>
> http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=8
> Off road, Yanmar, marine engine, model
>
> Takes you here #51358:
> http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=36412
>
> Or this one which is slightly bigger volume but same gasket and thread
> size. #51344
> http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=33685
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 1:27 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>>> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug Mountjoy
>>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>>> LH39
>>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

What make is the shaft seal and how difficult was the install Charlie?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Sat, Oct 20, 2018, 06:36 Charlie Normand via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Adrian
>
> Have had the shaft seal on Shadow Dancer for about 12 years now,  never a
> problem, one of best updates I made
>
> Cheers
>
> Charlie
> Shadow Dancer
> 1987 33 MKII
> Jamestown RI
>
> On Fri, Oct 19, 2018 at 12:06 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Sorry guys, I forgot to include the sailor sams shaft seal link.
>>
>> https://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals
>>
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 9:14 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>>
>>> I have a Max-Prop, a R coupling isolator, R engine mounts, and I
>>> have a PYI shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the
>>> engineering and customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being
>>> said, I would suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the
>>> vendor described to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the
>>> "packing" (carbon rings) with it installed and in the water.  Some of the
>>> models do not require the tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a
>>> physical metal spring that maintains pressure.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?

 Will it fit?

 We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering
 replacing it altogether.

 Thanks,

 Adrian Humphreys





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>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Holding tank

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

is it correct to assume that the original fittings on my Kracor holding
tank will determine the size of vent hose I can use, or can I retrofit
larger hoses?
Would a second vent require a pro to create a fitting on my existing tank?

Wade
Oh Boy 33-2



On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 10:41 AM Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
> Dave,
> One of the most important things you can do with this install is insure
> proper hose diameter for ventilation. Most head odor problems can be traced
> to vent hoses that are too small.  If you find or have a tank made, put in
> the largest vent hose size you can fit.
> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again, 35-3
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Old B Focus instrument heads

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Good Morning Chuck,
I would be interested in your instruments.  Are you including the masthead
unit as well as thru hull transducers/flyweel?
Wade
Oh Boy 33

On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 7:55 AM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy Labor Day week!  New boat (for me) and working to upgrade nav
> station, so I have three B Focus instruments...AWI/speed...Depth...and an
> apparent "master controller dial" (did not find much information on my
> brief Google search).  They were mounted inside the nav station and are in
> perfect shape.
>
> Would rather they get used...make an offer that at least covers shipping?
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> C 37+
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Solar and batteries

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

I wish mine read 13 all the time!
Wade
Oh Boy 33

On Wed, Aug 29, 2018, 19:16 Edd Schillay via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David,
>
> Not at all. If they were over 15V, then I’d worry. 13’s are perfect.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2018, at 7:10 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> So I set up my 50 watt solar panel and controller and when I come aboard
> the boat the batteries are reading 13.1 13.2. I thought a battery at rest
> read  12.7 fully charged.  Even now at sunset they are reading over 13.
>
> Is my controller cooking the batteries?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> From my Android
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

So when you use a laser/optical tach to check the boat's tachometer, where
do you put your reflective mark?  On the prop shaft?  The main pulley?

Wade

On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 3:25 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I know for a fact that mine runs about 200 rpm low.  I bought a laser tach
> from the link below.  I take that into account.  Replacement doesn't make
> it better.  Mine has been low since new.  It doesn't come off the
> alternator either.  It is a stock unit that had a pickup off the flywheel.
>
> AGPtek® Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer Non Contact RPM Tach
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q8L894/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-kpuBbJVJTJCK
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 3:09 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-L
> ist  wrote:
>
>> The accuracy of original tachs can be problematic.  I’m pretty sure mine
>> reads 4-500 rpm low.  Near the top of the “ replace soon” list.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>>
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2018, at 11:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2018 13:40:06 -0400
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck
>> Message-ID:
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> The Yanmar manual does have some guidance on page 44.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yenJtR1BxWjhqZGs/
>> view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 10:47 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Ok. So my engine is a Yanmar 2GM20F. I find the vibration "sweet spot" for
>>
>> motoring is about 2200 rpm. Sounds like I should be pushing it harder
>>
>> trying to find a sweet spot at a higher rpm?  I can't recall what the
>>
>> tachometer range is on my boat. I've also had someone mention pushing the
>>
>> engine up to a high rpm before shutting it down for what reason I don't
>>
>> know. Lastly, I notice truckers never shut off their engines immediately
>>
>> after a highway haul. Should I idle my engine before shutting down after a
>>
>> long motor.
>>
>> Thanks for your thoughts.
>>
>> Wade
>>
>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 09:22 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List, <
>>
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello Wade,
>>
>>
>> Essentially it means running the engine at relatively high RPMs (I've
>>
>> seen the number to by 85% of full speed) whenever reasonable, in gear and
>>
>> avoiding running the engine solely to charge the batteries.
>>
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>>
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> *Cc:* Wade Glew 
>>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 19, 2018 10:09 AM
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck
>>
>>
>> Hi Josh,
>>
>> Being relatively new to the sailboat business can I please ask what you
>>
>> mean by "keeping the engine load as high as possible" with regard to Soot
>>
>> accumulation?
>>
>> Wade
>>
>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 16:24 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <
>>
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I was pleasantly surprised, that after 5 years of use and no service, the
>>
>> elbow was in no way clogged with soot.  I believe this to be a result of
>>
>> regulatory keeping the engine load as high as possible.
>>
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 5:11 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>>
>>
>> It is original to my ownership (6 years), who knows prior to that.
>>
>> Replaced with "stainless" from ebay.
>>
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Having followed this C list for a few months now, I'm floored by how much
shi##*! you guys know!!

thanks for all your comments/suggestions/links etc.  It's really helpful!

Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MK II

On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 3:25 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I know for a fact that mine runs about 200 rpm low.  I bought a laser tach
> from the link below.  I take that into account.  Replacement doesn't make
> it better.  Mine has been low since new.  It doesn't come off the
> alternator either.  It is a stock unit that had a pickup off the flywheel.
>
> AGPtek® Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer Non Contact RPM Tach
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q8L894/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-kpuBbJVJTJCK
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 3:09 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-L
> ist  wrote:
>
>> The accuracy of original tachs can be problematic.  I’m pretty sure mine
>> reads 4-500 rpm low.  Near the top of the “ replace soon” list.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>>
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2018, at 11:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2018 13:40:06 -0400
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck
>> Message-ID:
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> The Yanmar manual does have some guidance on page 44.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yenJtR1BxWjhqZGs/
>> view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 10:47 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Ok. So my engine is a Yanmar 2GM20F. I find the vibration "sweet spot" for
>>
>> motoring is about 2200 rpm. Sounds like I should be pushing it harder
>>
>> trying to find a sweet spot at a higher rpm?  I can't recall what the
>>
>> tachometer range is on my boat. I've also had someone mention pushing the
>>
>> engine up to a high rpm before shutting it down for what reason I don't
>>
>> know. Lastly, I notice truckers never shut off their engines immediately
>>
>> after a highway haul. Should I idle my engine before shutting down after a
>>
>> long motor.
>>
>> Thanks for your thoughts.
>>
>> Wade
>>
>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 09:22 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List, <
>>
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello Wade,
>>
>>
>> Essentially it means running the engine at relatively high RPMs (I've
>>
>> seen the number to by 85% of full speed) whenever reasonable, in gear and
>>
>> avoiding running the engine solely to charge the batteries.
>>
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>>
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> *Cc:* Wade Glew 
>>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 19, 2018 10:09 AM
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck
>>
>>
>> Hi Josh,
>>
>> Being relatively new to the sailboat business can I please ask what you
>>
>> mean by "keeping the engine load as high as possible" with regard to Soot
>>
>> accumulation?
>>
>> Wade
>>
>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 16:24 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <
>>
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I was pleasantly surprised, that after 5 years of use and no service, the
>>
>> elbow was in no way clogged with soot.  I believe this to be a result of
>>
>> regulatory keeping the engine load as high as possible.
>>
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 5:11 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>>
>>
>> It is original to my ownership (6 years), who knows prior to that.
>>
>> Replaced with "stainless" from ebay.
>>
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Ok. So my engine is a Yanmar 2GM20F. I find the vibration "sweet spot" for
motoring is about 2200 rpm. Sounds like I should be pushing it harder
trying to find a sweet spot at a higher rpm?  I can't recall what the
tachometer range is on my boat. I've also had someone mention pushing the
engine up to a high rpm before shutting it down for what reason I don't
know. Lastly, I notice truckers never shut off their engines immediately
after a highway haul. Should I idle my engine before shutting down after a
long motor.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 09:22 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Wade,
>
> Essentially it means running the engine at relatively high RPMs (I've seen
> the number to by 85% of full speed) whenever reasonable, in gear and
> avoiding running the engine solely to charge the batteries.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Wade Glew 
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 19, 2018 10:09 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck
>
> Hi Josh,
> Being relatively new to the sailboat business can I please ask what you
> mean by "keeping the engine load as high as possible" with regard to Soot
> accumulation?
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>
> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 16:24 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I was pleasantly surprised, that after 5 years of use and no service, the
> elbow was in no way clogged with soot.  I believe this to be a result of
> regulatory keeping the engine load as high as possible.
>
> Josh
>
> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 5:11 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> It is original to my ownership (6 years), who knows prior to that.
> Replaced with "stainless" from ebay.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 4:46 PM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Josh,
>
> That’s a nasty hole.  How old is the elbow?  Time for a new one.  Standard
> or stainless?
>
> Jake
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
> *Hampton VA*
> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 15:21
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck
>
> I found some rust blisters on the riser while poking around in the engine
> the other day.  I had a moment yesterday to do the replacement with parts
> which I have had for some time.  The rubber exhaust hose was stuck on and a
> considerable amount of wrestling was required to separate it from the
> riser.  In the effort it went unnoticed that some of the rust blisters had
> broken away.  Once I finally got it off and had a chance to inspect I found
> that the rust had opened up a dime sized hole.  If this had let go
> unexpectedly I would have started blowing exhaust and water into my engine
> compartment.  My "what would I have done" thoughts started rolling and I've
> decided that a tube of epoxy putty would have been my first effort at an
> emergency repair.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1aC6-4V8P3BufZhZsusYFmMlmHknk-Ftv
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,
Being relatively new to the sailboat business can I please ask what you
mean by "keeping the engine load as high as possible" with regard to Soot
accumulation?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 16:24 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was pleasantly surprised, that after 5 years of use and no service, the
> elbow was in no way clogged with soot.  I believe this to be a result of
> regulatory keeping the engine load as high as possible.
>
> Josh
>
> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 5:11 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
>> It is original to my ownership (6 years), who knows prior to that.
>> Replaced with "stainless" from ebay.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 4:46 PM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Josh,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That’s a nasty hole.  How old is the elbow?  Time for a new one.
>>> Standard or stainless?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>>
>>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>>
>>> *Hampton VA*
>>>
>>> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Josh
>>> Muckley via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 15:21
>>> *To:* C List 
>>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I found some rust blisters on the riser while poking around in the
>>> engine the other day.  I had a moment yesterday to do the replacement with
>>> parts which I have had for some time.  The rubber exhaust hose was stuck on
>>> and a considerable amount of wrestling was required to separate it from the
>>> riser.  In the effort it went unnoticed that some of the rust blisters had
>>> broken away.  Once I finally got it off and had a chance to inspect I found
>>> that the rust had opened up a dime sized hole.  If this had let go
>>> unexpectedly I would have started blowing exhaust and water into my engine
>>> compartment.  My "what would I have done" thoughts started rolling and I've
>>> decided that a tube of epoxy putty would have been my first effort at an
>>> emergency repair.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1aC6-4V8P3BufZhZsusYFmMlmHknk-Ftv
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>>
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>>
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Sling Decals

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Are you making these Stu?
Wade
33 Mk II
Oh boy

On Jun 29, 2018 11:56, "Stu via CnC-List"  wrote:

Is this what you had in mind for sling decals.  These are approx.  – 1” x
2.25”.  Marine grade vinyl available in red, blue or black.

Haven’t figured out a shipped price yet.  What would you pay for 4?

[image: sling_decals]

Stu


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#m_-7428324240045864656_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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Re: Stus-List C Water tank hatch covers

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

I had to replace these on a C 30 Mk II a few years ago. It was a 1986 but
I believe C had the same tank manufacturer forever. The company name was
embossed faintly on the screw on port caps which I then used to Google
search and source new ones (which were very inexpensive by the way). If my
memory serves me (less so anymore) the name was Krakor?  I can look on my
boat this weekend
Wade
33 Mk II
Oh Boy

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018, 07:01 Nathan Post via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> The domestic fresh water tank (I assume original) on my 1981 C 34 has
> two ports in the top with screw in covers with 3.5" diameter threads.  The
> covers have degraded to the point that they no longer thread in (the
> plastic has shrunk - probably due to a chemical used by the previous owner
> or perhaps just time and heat.  The outer threads seem to be in good shape
> but I have been unable to find a replacement port cover of the same size.
> Any suggestions on there on where to find these covers so I don't need to
> cut the whole thing out and install new plate assemblies?
>
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine wind

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

may I ask what you mean by linearize the instruments?

Wade
33 Mk II  Oh Boy

On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 10:01 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On the ST50/60/60+ instruments, there has to be 8 volts between the red
> wire and the screen.  Less than 8 volts won't do.  The i50/60 instruments
> are probably the same.  I had a similar problem with my wind display.  I
> thought it was the masthead transducer.  When I discovered the lower (7.2
> volts) voltage, I ran a connection from the red wire on one of the other
> instruments to 12 volts.  That raised the red to screen voltage to 8
> volts.  I then had to linearize the instruments and it cured the problem.
> You can also check the Raymarine Forum http://forum.raymarine.com/?_
> ga=2.187069608.1654551873.1529160097-1564253690.1523291050 to see whether
> this subject has been brought up.  If not, post your question.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 6:19 AM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> We had the opposite, speed didn't show, but direction did. Sending it to
>> Raymarine was a fixed rate repair. They replaced the speed portion of the
>> unit.
>>
>> You can check the back of the unit to watch the voltage swings indicating
>> direction, but odds are it's the masthead sensor.
>>
>> To verify, check the blue and green wires against the sheild. They will
>> be between 2 and 6v depending on the wind direction. Blue / Ground is port.
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 7:33 PM Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I’m having an intermittent issue with the wind instrument on Pulse. I
>>> believe it’s the i50 i60 package. It always shows digital wind speed on the
>>> display, but the directional indicator seems to freeze up.
>>>
>>
>> ___
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>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=
>> DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=QmiLx9HWuO4B7TsuT1w
>> T4OG0uOolI1HQCcUiV4QhYes=y67kYKpRPgNEbAz-mHCXGy2MFBtFy1moGaeMr758mj8=
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or
anything else we are discussing on this list

On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> http://service.curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com
>
>
>
> Erik Hillenmeyer
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 33 II bilge pumps

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone who responded to my confusion about the bilge pumps in
my C 33 MKII. I think I have an idea where to go from here.

Wade
Oh Boy
C 33 MKII
Kenora Ontario

On Wed, May 2, 2018, 15:01 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would think you’d want to install a check valve in the discharge line
> between the second pump and the tee to prevent water backing into the
> second pump in the event of a failure.
> Brad
> Pulse C 33 Mk II
> Lake Huron
>
> Anything worth doing requires sails
> ~(\_~
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List C 33 II bilge pumps

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

 I think that's the answer Brad, thanks. Wade

On Tue, May 1, 2018, 20:58 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 2 manual bilge pumps both exit out their own thru-hull at the stern.
> The hoses are 1-1/2 inch coil reinforced.
> Brad
> Pulse C 33 Mk II
> Lake Huron
>
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Thanks for your thoughts Bruno. The pump is a large manual Whale like pump
which is pretty oversize for a shower and not electric either. It pumps
through a large diameter vinyl with metal reinforcement hose directly to
the cockpit manual pump
Wade

On Tue, May 1, 2018, 05:55 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The pump under the port sette could be the « shower » sump pump. Does the
> hose goes that way? Mine exits on the port side.
>
> Bruno Lachance
>
> 1987 33 mkii
> Bécassine
>
> Obtenez Outlook pour iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 1, 2018 6:40:09 AM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps
>
> The PO probably had an extra electric bilge pump which has since been
> removed.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:58 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have a 1986 C 33 MK II.  As well as the electric bilge pump I have
>> the usual Manual bilge pump in the cockpit.  In addition, there is another
>> manual bilge pump in the cabin mounted under the Port side settee along the
>> forward bulkhead.  This cabin bulge pump hose runs to the cockpit bilge
>> pump which then discharges to a through hull just under the transom.  The
>> curious part is that there are two thru hulls, side by side under the
>> transom.  The second thru hull has a bilge hose which runs forward and dead
>> ends in the bilge with no pump or fittings between the ends.  No other 33
>> MK II in my harbour has this second through hull or "dead end" hose.  Does
>> anyone know why this hose is present?
>>
>> many thanks,  Wade
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

I wondered about that. However, the large vinyl hose with metal coil
reinforcement seems more like a manual pump hose size. Perhaps the two
manual pumps had separate hoses and thru hulls at some point?
Wade

On Tue, May 1, 2018, 05:41 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> The PO probably had an extra electric bilge pump which has since been
> removed.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:58 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have a 1986 C 33 MK II.  As well as the electric bilge pump I have
>> the usual Manual bilge pump in the cockpit.  In addition, there is another
>> manual bilge pump in the cabin mounted under the Port side settee along the
>> forward bulkhead.  This cabin bulge pump hose runs to the cockpit bilge
>> pump which then discharges to a through hull just under the transom.  The
>> curious part is that there are two thru hulls, side by side under the
>> transom.  The second thru hull has a bilge hose which runs forward and dead
>> ends in the bilge with no pump or fittings between the ends.  No other 33
>> MK II in my harbour has this second through hull or "dead end" hose.  Does
>> anyone know why this hose is present?
>>
>> many thanks,  Wade
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Dacron Roller Furling #1 - now sail %

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis!  Making more sense now...
Wade

On Tue, May 1, 2018, 10:58 Dennis C. via CnC-List, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Wade,
>
> A quick primer on sail measurements.  A #1 sail varies from boat to boat.
> Typically it is a boat's largest headsail.  When I purchased my 35-1, it
> had a 170% genoa (more on that below).  That was the #1.
>
> After a race or two, I retired the 170 in favor of a 155% headsail.  That
> became my new #1.  My #2 is a 125% and my #3 is a 95%.
>
> It's somewhat more descriptive to state the size of a headsail in terms of
> percent.  However, that, too, depends on the boat.
>
> The percentage loosely measures the area of the sail in reference to a
> boat's foretriangle.  It is calculated by dividing the sail's LP
> measurement by the J dimension of the boat.
>
> LP is the perpendicular measurement from the luff to the clew.  I usually
> determine it by laying out the sail, holding the end of a measuring tape at
> the clew then swinging the tape across the luff of the sail to find the
> minimum distance.
>
> The percent is then LP/J * 100.
>
> So, a 100% headsail would just reach the forward edge of the mast.  A 90%
> headsail would fall short of the mast.  A 150% headsail would extend 50% of
> the way aft of the mast in relation to the foretriangle.
>
> I occasionally list a sail on eBay.  I list the luff, foot, leech and LP
> dimensions.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 8:58 AM, Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Rather new to sailing Mike. I'm guessing that #1 means it's a light air
>> sail?  Is it a 135?
>> Wade
>>
>> On Tue, May 1, 2018, 07:24 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List, <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I just thought I would post this here because it may benefit somebody on
>>> the list rather than just post locally on kijiji
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Persistence has a Doyle cross weave dacron roller  furling #1 with UV
>>> cover that we have only used twice in four years.  It is in very good to
>>> excellent condition but is taking up space in my boat storage shelves.  We
>>> have several nice non roller #1 headsails that we use when racing and use
>>> our #3 roller furler when cruising.  The measurements of the boat are I=45
>>> J=13.33.  According to Doyle loft his sail will fit a C 33-2 almost
>>> perfectly and should be selling for $800 CAD.  I would rather have $500
>>> than a sail I never use and would like to see it find a home where it is
>>> appreciated
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Persistence
>>>
>>> Halifax, NS
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Dacron Roller Furling #1

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Rather new to sailing Mike. I'm guessing that #1 means it's a light air
sail?  Is it a 135?
Wade

On Tue, May 1, 2018, 07:24 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> I just thought I would post this here because it may benefit somebody on
> the list rather than just post locally on kijiji
>
>
>
> Persistence has a Doyle cross weave dacron roller  furling #1 with UV
> cover that we have only used twice in four years.  It is in very good to
> excellent condition but is taking up space in my boat storage shelves.  We
> have several nice non roller #1 headsails that we use when racing and use
> our #3 roller furler when cruising.  The measurements of the boat are I=45
> J=13.33.  According to Doyle loft his sail will fit a C 33-2 almost
> perfectly and should be selling for $800 CAD.  I would rather have $500
> than a sail I never use and would like to see it find a home where it is
> appreciated
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hello,

I have a 1986 C 33 MK II.  As well as the electric bilge pump I have the
usual Manual bilge pump in the cockpit.  In addition, there is another
manual bilge pump in the cabin mounted under the Port side settee along the
forward bulkhead.  This cabin bulge pump hose runs to the cockpit bilge
pump which then discharges to a through hull just under the transom.  The
curious part is that there are two thru hulls, side by side under the
transom.  The second thru hull has a bilge hose which runs forward and dead
ends in the bilge with no pump or fittings between the ends.  No other 33
MK II in my harbour has this second through hull or "dead end" hose.  Does
anyone know why this hose is present?

many thanks,  Wade
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