Stus-List opening port replacing fixed lenses on 1984 C

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Over the years I’ve replaced the side fixed windows on my ’84 37 multiple 
times.  I’m considering glassing over where the lenses sit and installing 
opening ports.  Probably two on each side.

 

I’m reaching out to the group to see who has tackled this project and are there 
suggestions on how to best finish the inside to make it look decent.  

 

Thanks,

 

 

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Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Peter – it’s been a while since I pulled the inspection ports on my 37, but I 
seem to recall the deck area around chainplates are solid.  Look up under the 
deck at the ports and you may answer your own question.  It shouldn’t be 
painted and you’ll be able to see the cored and un-cored portions – just like 
at the through hulls for depth/speed sensors or under the sink, or for cockpit 
drains.  

 

If the rig is down, it’ll be easy to pull the bolts for the plates and see if 
surrounding wood is affected and if the bolts are suspect.  As others have 
noted, butyl is the correct solution at the deck.  

 

Hope that helps.   

 

 

From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

 

Excellent suggestions, thank you! I have a roll of Bed-it tape on the way 
(https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717) and a call out among sailing 
buddies for a good moisture meter. Forgot about using alcohol for moisture 
abatement, I’ll get on that today.

Nathan, how deep do you cut that 45—just passed the gelcoat into glass?

Matt, yes, I was actually relieved the water (maybe 1.5qt when discovered) was 
contained. Keeping it all warm drying in the wettest part of the year will be a 
challenge.

The chainplates were new fabs installed in a 2011 refit, replacing the 
originals. They were built to spec and still look like new. There doesn’t 
appear to be any lifting off the deck, which I’ve heard is an issue when the 
bolt holes oval due to…other issues. The yard used caulking on the deck instead 
of butyl, which probably accounts for the failure. Anxious to start getting 
things apart to dry/inspect the backsides.

So, a question on cored deck design for my vintage boat (‘85). Do these decks 
have solid glass around the chainplate?

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Stu

Stus-List Garmin GHP 12 Class A drive unit

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Anyone have, or familiar with, the Garmin GHP12 Class A drive unit?   I’m 
considering an upgrade and am hoping for more real world experience.

 

Thanks,

Pete

C

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Stus-List C 37 foot block

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I would like to upgrade the foot blocks by my primary winches from single to 
stacked doubles.  

 

Anyone have a source for original pieces that aren’t needed anymore?   I’m also 
looking at new, but I don’t need them that bad.  

 

Thanks,

Pete 

1984 C 37

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Stus-List Re: Jam Cleat

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

That’s it.  Thanks.

 

 

From: Ken Heaton  
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2023 11:25 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jam Cleat

 

Are you looking for thr jam cleats listed on this website?

 

http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html

 

Ken H.

 

 

On Thu, 16 Mar 2023 at 13:20, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I’m looking for a source on a couple jam cleats similar to what came on our 
80’s vintage C 37.  

 

Initial online review has come up short and hoping someone can help me out.

 

Thanks,

Pete

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Jam Cleat

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I’m looking for a source on a couple jam cleats similar to what came on our 
80’s vintage C 37.  

 

Initial online review has come up short and hoping someone can help me out.

 

Thanks,

Pete

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List charger/inverter

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I am looking to update my shore power charger and considering charger/inverter 
with lithium batt capabilities.  

 

There are lots of manufacturers out there.  Can anyone provide reliable 
resources to review or recommendations?

 

Thanks,

Stus-List C cutting board

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Stu – 

I’m guessing you haven’t had time to get to it, but I thought I’d ask if an 
online option is still in the plans to make an order for the cutting board?  I 
Let us know if that’s still in the works and easier way for you to take orders, 
or if an email is sufficient.  

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bimini for 1984 37

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Bayfield, wi

 

From: DJ via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2021 7:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: DJ 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bimini for 1984 37

 

Hi Pete, 

 

Where are you/your boat located?

 

Danny

 

On Sep 7, 2021 9:21 PM, "pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I held out as long as I could and am now looking into adding a bimini to my 37.

 

Does anyone have strong opinion for options or recommendations for suppliers? 

 

thx

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Bimini for 1984 37

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I held out as long as I could and am now looking into adding a bimini to my
37.

 

Does anyone have strong opinion for options or recommendations for
suppliers? 

 

thx

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Pete –

Another suggestion is to use a small air compressor or shopvac to blow air 
through the lines to determine if/where the blockage is.  Do you have the small 
plastic gate valves at the tank?  Those may be suspect.   A ball valve is a 
nice upgrade.   Also as you go through the system, if you have any loose 
fittings air will get sucked in and cause problems too.  

 

Pumps will pull water from the side of least resistance.  If the line to your 
port tank is longer of has an obstruction, the starboard tank gets drawn down 
until the pump sucks air, then nothing is going to happen.  

 

FWIW – In normal use I isolate the tanks with the valves at the tank discharge 
and only use one at a time.   Yes the boat will be heavy on one side, but in 
this mode I’m not racing and don’t care.  When racing all tanks are empty.  

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 8:56 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

 

Is there a valve manifold somewhere between the line and the pump?

Have you tried closing the starboard valve or blowing through the port hose to 
see what happens?

 

Should not be hard to troubleshoot if you know where the lines run.

 

On Mon, Mar 22, 2021 at 2:55 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set to 
open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side. I’d 
assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the stbd tank 
empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full. Can someone 
venture to what’s going on? I’ve read this 2015 discussion 

 , but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I’ll do some 
exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from equalizing. 
Ideas are welcome.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu




 

-- 

Joel 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 40

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I feel safe now.  

 

Hello, my name is Pete,  and I am a Boston Whaler owner.  

 

 

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 3:56 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 40

 

Well, that’s good to know

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Stu via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 4:35 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 40

 

Sorry – but I never owned a trawler.  Land Yacht yes.

 

Nobody gets kicked off the list just because went to the dark side, sold their 
C or purchased another (ugh) brand.  Once a C, always in your blood.

 

Stay safe & healthy

Stu

 

p.s trim your messages 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anyone have a Mustang Float Coat - are they still a thing?

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Joe -

They are still a thing.  I use this full suit and have never been cold with
it.   Knock on wood, I haven't had to try it in the water.  Around here guys
use them for deer hunting too.

 

https://mustangsurvival.com/products/deluxe-anti-exposure-coverall-and-works
uit-ms2175

 

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 9:00 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Anyone have a Mustang Float Coat - are they still a
thing?

 

It occurred to me while sailing yesterday my inflatable PFD would only do so
much good if I fell off the boat into 40 degree (or less) water. Ages ago
while sailing in San Francisco we had these cool Mustang combo foul
weather./flotation coats that kept you warn and hopefully buoyant if you
fell off the boat.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Raymarine and Predict Wind

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Following up with everyone on a video I found about this subject.Hope it
helps anyone interested.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKbgp9qvYfY 

 

 

 

From: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2021 12:05 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine and Predict Wind

 

I have a few questions that I'm hoping Raymarine users on the list can help
answer (I'm looking at you Fred).

 

I recently became aware of Raymarine Axiom MFDs able to run the PredictWind
app, or at minimum, display the data.

 

In digging into the details, it's not clear which of the two options above
is accurate and how the data is acquired for the MFD.  IE Does the MFD run
the PW app and connect directly and request the info from your phone,
satellite, or other wifi service?  Or does one run PW app on your
phone/computer and push/store the requested info on the MFD?

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

Thanks 

Pete

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I grease the pin and gears every year prior to launch and believe it helps the 
blades retract more easily.  The blades are still moving well when we pull in 
the fall.  

 

FYI – we’re in pretty cold fresh water in Lake Superior and don’t have a lot of 
growth to worry about.

 

 

 

From: Wade Glew via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 6:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Wade Glew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

 

Mine is dry. So far.

Wade Glew 

Oh Boy C 33 MKII 

Lake of the Woods

 

On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 18:31 Sam Salter via CnC-List, mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Flexofold folding 2 blade prop.
Do you lube it or leave it dry?
I’ve been leaving it dry but I’m open to suggestions/experience 路‍♂️

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Raymarine and Predict Wind

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I have a few questions that I'm hoping Raymarine users on the list can help
answer (I'm looking at you Fred).

 

I recently became aware of Raymarine Axiom MFDs able to run the PredictWind
app, or at minimum, display the data.

 

In digging into the details, it's not clear which of the two options above
is accurate and how the data is acquired for the MFD.  IE Does the MFD run
the PW app and connect directly and request the info from your phone,
satellite, or other wifi service?  Or does one run PW app on your
phone/computer and push/store the requested info on the MFD?

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

Thanks 

Pete

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List ISO Used Wind Instrument

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I am in the middle of a project/experiment and am in need of a used wind 
instrument. Ideally N2K.  Do any listers have an extra laying around that they 
don’t need?

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Broken rod rigging attachment for babystay deck at keel - 37/40+

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Bruce – 

I think you’re on the right track on how the rod is attached to your hull.  
Ideally, there is a plate that a new rod can easily be attached to, but you may 
need to grind down and install all new.   I’ve never looked at mine to give you 
a clear answer.   There should also be a turnbuckle to tune up the tension on 
the rod (before you tension the rig).  I have two rods holding down each end of 
the track that my babystay attaches to.  

 

Without the rod support, I wouldn’t attach the babystay.  It is structural and, 
in that scenario, the deck is now only supported at the partners and you risk 
lifting/stressing the deck in front of the mast.  Let the mast pump, it’s the 
lesser of two evils.  

 

On Lake Superior we get short, steep waves.  When it’s lumpy my mast (which is 
a tree trunk) still pumps a ton and I crank on the baby stay as tight as it’ll 
go.   

 

Hope that helps. 

Pete

 

 

 

On Tue, Feb 16, 2021 at 6:58 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ahh...   Of course.  

 

I had not thought of that.  

 

Have any of you had to do this repair, and do you know how the rod is connected 
to the keel stub?

 

As a bit of background, the 1/4" stainless rod rig material is attached to the 
underside of the deck with a 1/4" x 1.5" x 3" stainless plate with two 3/8" 
stainless screws/bolts.   I am presuming a similar stainless plate was 
fiberglassed in place at the keel.  As of now, I can't really see it, but I 
will be able to get to it.  I am thinking I can grind it down a bit to get to 
clean fiberglass, get a replacement 1/2" threaded rod, tap a hole into a 
replacement stainless plate and get a welder additionally weld the rod in place 
so it doesn't move (untwist).  From there, fiberglass it in place. 

 

I can then use the existing rod and under-deck attachment.

 

Am I missing something?

 

Is there any particular trick to the fiberglassing?  How many layers of cloth 
would you use?

 

Thanks!!!

 

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092

 

On Tue, Feb 16, 2021, 2:47 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bruce,

 

If you have turning blocks attached to the deck I would be careful, as the rod 
counteracts the upward force of the halyards.  If they are attached to the 
mast, I would think you are OK.

 

Joel

 


 

 



-- 

 

 

Chuck Saur

517 490-5926 Cell

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast head sheave drawings

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Thank you.  I thought I'd ping the list before bothering the museum.

 

 

 

From: JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 11:09 AM
To: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
Cc: JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: mast head sheave drawings

 

There may be the  ones you are looking for at the Marine Museum.  The silly
long number is the museum's reference number


2008.0012.0034.0017

Mast Head detail

Mast Head detail C 40 racing/cruising sloop for C Yachts Mfg. Ltd.

 

C & C Collection (Tartan Yachts)

19-Jul-78

5-A-7

 



 

C 40

77-10

39'7"

June/24/1977

2008.0012.0034 (1-26)

4

TRUE

Digitized: only 2, 7 - 9

 


 

C 38

74-10

 

 

2008.0012.0013 (1-15)

15

FALSE

MK II? Not sure if a MK I was built.

 


 

C 38

74-10

37'7"

 

1990.0051 (1-9)

9

FALSE

MK II? Not sure if a MK I was built.

 

 

JKC

 

 

-- 


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List mast head sheave drawings

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

The drawing I have for my masthead reference two separate details for the
main sheave and the jib sheaves.  Does anyone on the list happen to have
these that I can reference?

 

Main Halyard Sheave: DWG#77-10-15 (C)

Genoa Sheaves: DWG#74-10-20 (C)

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

 

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Stus-List Re: North Asym for sale

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Sorry.  It’s gone.   Someone got their better half a nice valentine’s present.  

 

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2021 10:53 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John McCrea 
Subject: Stus-List Re: North Asym for sale

 

I will take it!!!

 

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2021 11:20 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: North Asym for sale

 

Where is it located?

Sent from my iPhone

 

On Feb 14, 2021, at 12:08 PM, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



For Sale:  North Red/White/Blue Asym spin with turtle.  

Leach= 46’   Luff= 49’   Foot= 24’7”

Fair condition, $200+shipping

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: North Asym for sale

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Minneapolis.  

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2021 10:20 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: North Asym for sale

 

Where is it located?

Sent from my iPhone





On Feb 14, 2021, at 12:08 PM, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



For Sale:  North Red/White/Blue Asym spin with turtle.  

Leach= 46’   Luff= 49’   Foot= 24’7”

Fair condition, $200+shipping

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List North Asym for sale

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

For Sale:  North Red/White/Blue Asym spin with turtle.  

Leach= 46'   Luff= 49'   Foot= 24'7"

Fair condition, $200+shipping

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Voyage Recorder

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Bill – 

This is really interesting.  Let me know how this works for you and, if you 
don’t mind, would you share a sample file?  

 

In the mean time I need to read more on the overall configuration and options 
for audio file input.   Pretty clever stuff

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 3:03 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Voyage Recorder

 

Speaking of data, I just purchased a Voyage Recorder,

Has anyone else gone down this rabbit hole? It seems like a good way to keep 
logs of all your activity autonomously, as I never seem to get around to 
jotting this stuff down  on my own. 

You can export it into excel, Google Earth, and even generate your own polars 
with their software – 

 

https://www.yachtd.com

 



 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Furler question

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Yes.  It’s a good way to go.   

 

FYI – when the halyard is not attached to the top swivel, you’ll need a way to 
attach it to the tow rail (or wherever you keep it when not used.  

 

 

 

From: Matthew via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 10:35 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question

 

While on the topic of furlers, I noticed a couple times last summer that we had 
difficulty unfurling the sail.  My best guess is that the wire rope thimble 
holding the snap shackle onto the halyard was banging into something up top.  
I’m replacing the wire-to-rope halyards with all rope for this year, and my 
line supplier said if I’m using a furler (Harken in my case) I don’t need a 
snap shackle on the halyard.  All I need is an eye splice because the furler 
already has a snap shackle for the halyard.  Does anyone have this arrangement 
(just an eye splice at the end of the halyard)?

 

Please advise.  Thanks.

 

Matt

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C drawing 74-10-15

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

With the recent discussion on C drawings, I have a need specifically for 
drawing #74-10-15 that is referenced on one of the drawings I currently have.   
I’m hoping it will give me needed detail on the rudder post head of my 37. 

 

Rather than contribute to the expected onslaught of requests to the museum, I’m 
wondering if anyone here has this one in their collection that I can reference?

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Ken Read debriefs AC Racing and Rich Wilson Updates Vendee Globe

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Don – 

Thanks for providing this.   It was interesting to hear Ken Read’s input on the 
races & boats.

 

 

From: Donald Kern  
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 6:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Ken Read debriefs AC Racing and Rich Wilson Updates Vendee 
Globe

 

 


December 20, 2020

 

TOMORROW NIGHT! December 21, at 6 p.m., ET, Ken Read joins us live from New 
Zealand to give his insight and report on all of the America's Cup World Series 
action that just concluded in Auckland. 

 

Rich Wilson, one of the most experienced around-the-world sailors follows Ken 
with a presentation on the Vendée Globe. The second part of this ninth edition 
of the Vendée Globe looks set to offer even more tension and excitement with 
the prospect of the top 11 skippers being within 800 nautical miles of each 
other at Cape Horn either on New Year's Eve or New Year's Day! 

 

The Zoom event is free and open to the public. 


  
https://us02web.zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_AuBxXTWqSdCfFZm7zPMX0w
or go to Sail Newport
  https://sailnewport.org/

Please share this!


   



   

   

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Nice video.  

 

Those 37s are good looking boats. 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of NORTHERN LIGHT via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2020 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: NORTHERN LIGHT 
Subject: Stus-List C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

 

Hey guys,

 

sorry for the dramatic title, it was not meant to look like clickbait on a YT 
channel :)

 

But here’s a little story for the C community:

 

I spent the last 4 years prepping my boat, Northern Light for a passage to 
Europe and the Med, and finally last summer I left from Nova Scotia, 
destination, Azores. Just before hitting the Gulf Stream, on a windless day 
while motoring gently at 1500 rpm when my world turned upside down. The cockpit 
floor started shaking and the most horrendous grinding noise coming from under 
the binnacle…I stopped the engine, and went back in my bunk for some thinking. 
What could that have been? I put a Gopro on a boat hook and checked the prop to 
see if I had snagged a fishing line or something. All looked good underneath. I 
opened the engine hatch, all looked ok, I opened the cockpit access hatch and 
looked at the shaft, all was well, the shaft was not overheating. I started the 
engine again and it ran fine. I put it in gear and all sounded normal.

 

“I must be getting my hallucinations,” I thought. It was about the right time, 
after 3 days offshore, with some degree of sleep deprivation, normal SOP. So I 
proceeded to make some Vietnamese noodles and enjoy the calm day with a Podcast.

 

Half and hour later, the horror returns. Same noise, metal on metal. Yup, you 
guessed it guys, the tranny went bust, on a calm day, approaching the shipping 
lanes between New York and the English Channel.

But that was only the beginning of the story. Because the wind returned with a 
vengeance hours later and two foils on the furler detached at the top and now 
my 110% North jib got stuck between the two extrusions. When I tried to furl, I 
could only furl the bottom part of the sail, the top key flying like a burgee 
flag.

 

After sorting out the mess as best I could, I called on my crew Flavio (Italian 
based in Barcelona, long time friend with whom I crossed the Pacific some years 
back) and told him that we now have 2 problems. Back into my bunk for more 
thinking…

 

I now still had about 1500 miles to the Azores, I had no engine and no headsail 
I could count on. As hard as that decision was, it became clear that I had to 
abort the mission and return to base. Flavio was in agreement with me, so we 
put the tail between our legs and ran back to the motherland.

 

But wait, we’re not done yet…on the way back a vicious gale caught us over 
something called Emerald Bank. Guess why it called emerald…because the depth 
goes from 4000m to 300m and the waves are green, very green. It wasn’t the 
wind, but the sea state that forced me to heave to for 7 hours. Later on, the 
boys at Shinning Waters Marine told me that’s where the schooners used to break 
in half and disappear during storms in the past century or two.

 

This shall pass too, I thought, although by the sound of things below, we might 
never see that day.

 

Finally we did start sailing back under main and a little bit of jib but as we 
came closer to the coast the wind died. We were now going on the rocks at 
Peggy’s Cove. Out goes the dinghy, we inflate it on deck with a swell throwing 
us around, I out the outboard on, more acrobatics, lash the dinghy on the hind 
quarter and my little Tohatsu was now giving us 2.5 knots of steerage. 8 hours 
later we pick up a mooring in St. Margaret’s Bay, unassisted, unaided except 
for large amounts of coffee. Our friends Jim and Sue welcome us in their home, 
we drink beers, eat ribs and wondered what just happened. The goodbye party 
took place just 5 days earlier in the same company. Flavio and I look like two 
racoons who just had an unpleasant turn of events.

 

Now, you’d think this is enough to make a story end happily ever after, but no 
Sir, we’ve still a ways to go…

 

It took two months to find another, second hand transmission, and rebuild my 
old one. Now the hurricane season was in full swing, so too late to go to 
Europe. In my vast wisdom, I thought let’s go to the Bras d’Or Lakes, have a 
little fun so we at least get something out of this unlucky summer…unlucky 
being the key word here.

 

We set out and do a nice overnighter along the coast, being boarded twice by 
the RCMP fast tenders in the process, once in zero visibility with a dense fog 
and drizzle. Seeing a black 26-foot tender with 6 large, commando-dressed 
officers pull alongside in those conditions makes you think you’re once again 
hallucinating.

 

Anyways, yes, we have a beautiful fortnight of cruising the serene inner sea of 
Cape Breton, when a tropical storm is announced. Can’t remember the name of 
that one, but she had a name for sure. That was ok, no problem, I have a 44-lbs 

Re: Stus-List Fun Work

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Sorry, wrong link.   This shows more options.

 

https://www.aquatraction.com/

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of pete.shelquist--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 9:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Work

 

 

Congrats, Paul.  Looks good. 

 

Aquatrac <http://aquatrac.net/>  is another source.  Very nice to stand and sit 
on.  A new C I raced on last year has it and it’s brilliant.  

 

Like Josh,  I’m waiting to see how it holds up over time and am told 5 yrs is a 
good run.   I also understand replacement is a bear but just read Aquatrac is 
now available with snaps.  I’m guessing that’s good for replacement, but not so 
much for operation?

 

$20-25 sqft, so with our little cockpits its not too big of a hit.   I’ve seen 
guys cover their whole bass boats with it.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 11:45 AM
To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Work

 

As others have stated it does look quite sharp.  I look forward to hearing how 
well it holds up over time.  As I recall PS did a review a few years ago.  That 
product and a similar one rated very very well for all points except one.  
Repair and replacement.  If that's R in 2 years - ouch.  10 or 20 years... 
Not so much.  I don't recall what life span the article cited.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

On Mon, Jun 15, 2020, 11:31 Paul Hood via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hey Richard,

 

It is a Seadek product which I brought from Launch Marine in Hamilton Ontario.  
I sent them the templates using 6mil poly.  I believe they sent the template to 
Florida or did the computer work themselves.  Either way, the product came cut 
to shape from Seadek in Florida.  

 

It was about 1k Cdn and the installation was relatively easy, peel and stick.  
You only get one chance to stick so an extra pair of hands was necessary.  They 
did straighten a few lines on the computer where I’m sure my template had 
slight curves but mostly unnoticeable.  I had redone the gelcoat on the deck 
some years back and left the non-slit off in those areas.  Apparently you can 
lay over non-slip but I wouldn’t do it.  I decided to fine sand and polish 
around the visible foam prior to laying so as not to deal with that later and 
leave a clean edge.  I did have non-slip on the 2 propane covers but sanded 
that down before installing.  Not a big deal.  It took about 4 hours to sand, 
polish and lay all panels.

 

Before buying, I tested it by putting red wine on it, sat for 15 minutes, 
rubbed it in, and it rinsed right off.  Quite impressed.  It is not slippery 
and has cushion feel to it.  Hoping to get some good life out of it.

 

I got the light grey and the blue that matches my sunbrella blue.  You can see 
the main cover in the photo that matches almost exactly.  I wanted the lines on 
the floor but not the seat.  I felt it was too much line and as well less 
comfortable to sit on.  The logo was $50 cdn….I thought it was a nice touch.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks,

Paul Hood

416-799-5549

 

From: Richard Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com> > 
Sent: June 15, 2020 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com <mailto:paul.h...@rogers.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Work

 

 

Paul, that looks awesome! tell me more about the product, the cost and the 
installation method...source of product?

Thanks

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fun Work

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

 

Congrats, Paul.  Looks good. 

 

Aquatrac   is another source.  Very nice to stand and sit 
on.  A new C I raced on last year has it and it’s brilliant.  

 

Like Josh,  I’m waiting to see how it holds up over time and am told 5 yrs is a 
good run.   I also understand replacement is a bear but just read Aquatrac is 
now available with snaps.  I’m guessing that’s good for replacement, but not so 
much for operation?

 

$20-25 sqft, so with our little cockpits its not too big of a hit.   I’ve seen 
guys cover their whole bass boats with it.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 11:45 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Work

 

As others have stated it does look quite sharp.  I look forward to hearing how 
well it holds up over time.  As I recall PS did a review a few years ago.  That 
product and a similar one rated very very well for all points except one.  
Repair and replacement.  If that's R in 2 years - ouch.  10 or 20 years... 
Not so much.  I don't recall what life span the article cited.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

On Mon, Jun 15, 2020, 11:31 Paul Hood via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hey Richard,

 

It is a Seadek product which I brought from Launch Marine in Hamilton Ontario.  
I sent them the templates using 6mil poly.  I believe they sent the template to 
Florida or did the computer work themselves.  Either way, the product came cut 
to shape from Seadek in Florida.  

 

It was about 1k Cdn and the installation was relatively easy, peel and stick.  
You only get one chance to stick so an extra pair of hands was necessary.  They 
did straighten a few lines on the computer where I’m sure my template had 
slight curves but mostly unnoticeable.  I had redone the gelcoat on the deck 
some years back and left the non-slit off in those areas.  Apparently you can 
lay over non-slip but I wouldn’t do it.  I decided to fine sand and polish 
around the visible foam prior to laying so as not to deal with that later and 
leave a clean edge.  I did have non-slip on the 2 propane covers but sanded 
that down before installing.  Not a big deal.  It took about 4 hours to sand, 
polish and lay all panels.

 

Before buying, I tested it by putting red wine on it, sat for 15 minutes, 
rubbed it in, and it rinsed right off.  Quite impressed.  It is not slippery 
and has cushion feel to it.  Hoping to get some good life out of it.

 

I got the light grey and the blue that matches my sunbrella blue.  You can see 
the main cover in the photo that matches almost exactly.  I wanted the lines on 
the floor but not the seat.  I felt it was too much line and as well less 
comfortable to sit on.  The logo was $50 cdn….I thought it was a nice touch.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks,

Paul Hood

416-799-5549

 

From: Richard Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com> > 
Sent: June 15, 2020 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Work

 

 

Paul, that looks awesome! tell me more about the product, the cost and the 
installation method...source of product?

Thanks

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I’ve had both raymarine control with electric drive and the current Garmin 
control with Octopus ram on my boat.

 

Garmin hands down.  Octopus vs Ray Electric drive is virtually no difference in 
feel.   Power consumption the Octopus is another hands down winner.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of bwhitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 7:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

 

Hi Gary,

 

I have to disagree with you on the comment regarding the hydraulic drive.  I 
have an Octopus unit, and when it is disengaged, I can feel the water flowing 
over the rudder from my prop when under power - it is that sensitive.  For such 
a large boat, the steering is remarkably sensitive.

 

Bruce Whitmore

C 37/40+

"Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet.

 

 

 Original message 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 4/20/20 2:35 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Gary Russell mailto:captnga...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 

 

Regardless of the controller you use, I would recommend the Raymarine Electric 
Drive Unit (Type 2?).  The benefit of an electric drive unit is it doesn't have 
the drag on the wheel/tiller when in standby mode.  The hydraulic units I've 
used make it hard to feel the boat when hand steering.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~

 

 

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 11:38 AM Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I’ve been crawling around below deck on our C 33/2 contemplating the 
installation of a below deck autopilot as well. My rudder post is 2.373 or 
roughly 2-3/8 diameter, appears to be solid stainless. My keyway extends down 
below the quadrant by about 4 inches or so, right where the arm needs to go, 
didn’t realize how lucky I was until I read through this post. So, to my 
question, what are you using for a drive unit? I’ve looked at the Octopus R/S 
online also considering a few others but curious as to what others have decided 
on.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse
C 33/2
Lake Huron
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Stus-List dorade vents

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I never liked the cowl vents that came with the boat since they would go over 
board at the first invitation.  But I am considering small clam style covers 
for the vents.   Does anyone have any experience with those?  Do they work? IE 
is that enough exposed area to get some ventilation through the boat?

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List input on thru-hull issue

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Lisle – 

If I understand your description correctly, yes it would be good to have at 
least the depth closer to horizontal.  Mostly for accurate readings and area 
coverage.  How you achieve that can be a long explanation but would be a 
combination of building up material (West System or other) on the inside and 
outside of the hull to make the two surfaces parallel.  

 

Airmar makes almost all transducers for instrument manufacturers.   I used all 
the same thru hulls when replacing my old datamarine.  FWIW; I have mostly 
Garmin now, but also B, on a N2K network.   Those two play very well together 
and each have their +/- for data display, usability and configurability.   I 
believe Garmin anemometer is the best in the business.  My personal experience 
is Raymarine doesn’t play well with others.   Spend time running different 
displays at your local boat show to get a feel how they operate.

 

Hope that helps.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Lisle Kingery, PhD 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD 
Subject: Stus-List input on thru-hull issue

 

Hello all,

 

I have been a lurker on the list for 3 years now, was seriously considering a 
C 30 in 2017 but ended up buying a 1986  Caliber 28 in August, 2018. 

 

Despite not landing on a C, I continue to actively follow the posts on the 
listserv as I have found them most useful and I don't do Facebook, and I would 
appreciate, although not being a C owner, if folks on the list have thoughts 
they would be interested in sharing on the issue below. 

 

The project I'm doing is replacing old and slightly leaking knot meter and 
depth sounder. There was a copious amount of LifeCalk applied around the 
fittings inside the boat and at launch last spring there was a very very small 
leak that was stopped for the season with yet more application of LIfeCalk.

 

The boat has 2 thru hulls forward of the keel and the knot meter hole size is 
2-1/8" as it is an old SR Mariner knot meter with a flanged fitting. The depth 
sounder is an old DataMarine Corinthian II model with a 2" Thru Hull hole, no 
flange. 

 

The issue I'm facing is that after I removed the Thru Hull fittings, it appears 
that the hole for the knot meter is flanged at about a 45' angle and the SR 
Mariner Thru Hull fitting is flanged at 30" so there is a bit of wiggle room so 
to speak and it's not as flush as I would think it should be. It's the original 
unit as far as I know so it apparently was fine for many years.

 

My question is - is there a way I can try and "build up" the area around the 
flange so that the fitting fits more closely, or is this sort of clearance OK 
to leave as is with the assumption that the sealant is capable of filling this 
void without significant concern of failing assuming it's applied properly.

 

Also, if anyone has thoughts on what best NMEA 2000 package to put in for 
depth, speed, and wind, I would be interested in thoughts there as well. I'm 
looking at Garmin and B thus far. The old Stowe anemometer doesn't work so 
I'm planning on upgrading the entire system.

 

Thank you,

 

Lisle

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Stus-List Barient 28s for sale

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/169619817158723/permalink/577611009692933/?s
ale_post_id=577611009692933

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Great Lakes water levels...for C

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

We have record high water levels on Western Lake Superior and I understand 
others in the great lakes are experiencing the same if not worse.   With the 
forecast unclear if this water level is a new normal or cyclical, and the fixed 
docks at our club nearing max height, I’m wondering what other clubs are 
experiencing, expecting going forward and what measures you are implementing to 
accommodate? 

 

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Stus-List C 37 with spartite

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I have a 1984 37’ and am considering using spartite.   

Has anyone done this on the this model?  How did you accommodate the tie down 
straps? 

Thanks,

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

FWIW – I tack right to the casting.  I don’t take a rating hit being more than 
12” past the forestay and I didn’t have to buy a bigger spin to fit the 
configuration.   However, it is pretty tight to do inside gybes.  Again, I’m 
short handed and doing distance stuff, so a little slower outside gybe isn’t a 
big deal.

 

I do have a Seldon bow sprit for sale if you want it.  

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Luke Wolbrink via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 8:01 AM
To: Bruno Lachance 
Cc: Luke Wolbrink ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

I guess the only other question is how do you arrange the sprit? The forestay 
is almost a foot back from the pointy end where there is a heavy aluminum 
casting and the fairleads to the bow cleats. I can't see a way to run a 
retractable sprit through all that mess. Or do you just drill a hole in that 
aluminum casting and attach a block for the tack?

 

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:55 AM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Luke,

The possibility to safely furl from the cockpit and then go forward only to 
handle a thightly furled sail is a big plus indeed compared to the situations 
you described, that do happen with a snuffer.

 

Bruno Lachance.


Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 9 août 2019 à 09:45, Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com> > a écrit :

Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and some 
shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other than 
wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing more time 
screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The admiral would 
like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for the symmetrical but 
it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck with both hands in the 
air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like a good way to do an 
unanticipated man overboard drill. 

 

I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C which is why I thought it 
was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!

 

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Hi Luke,

 

If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C extrusion and 
Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or newer, 
the mast would be an Offshore spar.

 

The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed to 
pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for 
recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it could 
be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed on a 
Facnor. 

 

The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But if you 
want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to uses it of 
caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem cruising, but For more 
heated situation at a mark rounding, not always ideal. The sock will do the job 
quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a good one like an ATN, it's very 
unlikely to happen if handled properly.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Bruno Lachance 

Bécassine,33-2

New-Richmond,Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com> > a écrit :

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I ditch 
the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just assumed they 
were out of business.  

 

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or just 
the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

 

Thanks again,

Luke

 

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them. 

 

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

 

Love the bowsprit!

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33-2

NewRichmond 

Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.   

 

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I 
know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.   

 

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I mentioned reliability, not speed.  Both the sock and furler have their issues 
and get hung up once in a while.  As Bruno mentioned, they are also slower for 
the transitions than traditional drops/hoists.  

 

Speed in changing sails isn’t as big of an issue since I do more distance 
races.  I am also typically shorthanded these days (IE; 1-2 people) so nothing 
is fast.  Some way to snuff does help that scenario but it’s good practice to 
know how to douse the spin without those devices.

 

Let me know what the mast manufacturers suggest for adding a crane.  My 
solution isn’t pretty, but it’s worked well for 15 yrs  

 

I’m on Lake Superior and we follow LMPHRF too.  In the past they have struggled 
with rating boats that change sail configurations like this, but their current 
solution seems reasonable.  

 

Pete

C

Bayfield, WI

 

 

 

From: Luke Wolbrink  
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 7:12 AM
To: Bruno Lachance 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; PETE SHELQUIST 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I ditch 
the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just assumed they 
were out of business. 

 

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or just 
the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

 

Thanks again,

Luke

 

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them. 

 

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

 

Love the bowsprit!

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33-2

NewRichmond 

Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.   

 

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I 
know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.   

 

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.  

 

Hope that helps.

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

Hello Folks,

 

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

 

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

 

Thanks in advance,

Luke

SV Zella C 35-3

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.   

 

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I 
know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.   

 

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.  

 

Hope that helps.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Luke Wolbrink via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Luke Wolbrink 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

Hello Folks,

 

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

 

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

 

Thanks in advance,

Luke

SV Zella C 35-3

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Stus-List teak corner molding

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

All- I’m in need of an inside corner teak molding. The existing piece has an 
extended lip as shown in the picture.  Does anyone know where to find a 
replacement?   

 

I found pieces without the lip, but I’m hoping for better.  

 

Thx

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I had a 3/8” belt originally and went to ½” with an 80amp alt upgrade.  It
fits all pulleys on my 3HMF.   That helped.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 8:20 AM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Stus-List Fan Belts...

 

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year).
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.
Yes, but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is
buying a better quality belt for the QM series.  

 

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same
configuration.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

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Stus-List AGM Batterries

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I’m not sure where to reference the regulations/guidelines on this, so if 
someone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. 

 

I would like to add a couple more batteries and am looking  at AGMs due to 
their tolerance of being at an angle.  Since, as I understand, they are not 
technically a lead-acid, do they still need to be installed in a battery box?   
I’m very tight on space and could use the extra few inches.

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

 

  

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Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Don - 
Thanks for doing this.  Here's another line for your spreadsheet;

1984C 37  95  Celebration US52589 Bayfield, WI14  2004
Shelquist   PeteMinnetonka  MN  Apostle Islands Yacht Club  
36


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Don Kern via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2018 6:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Don Kern 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

Being retired, and having a rainy day I put together a spread sheet
(attached) from the replies to Jack's request.  Please let me know by email, if 
you want to be removed or want to make corrections to the list.  Rhis is a 
shorten list that does not include the second and third boats that folks have 
owned.

I will send out an update as soon as the replies peter out.

ps: What part of the C serial number is the hull number, the last three 
digits?

Best regards,
Don Kern
Fireball - 12708
1974 C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI 02809



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Re: Stus-List Winter cover C 40

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Patricia – 

Here’s the manufacturer of the cover I have.  I hope it helps as another point 
of reference/source.

 

http://www.fairclough.com/winter-boat-covers/ 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Patricia Walsh via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patricia Walsh 
Subject: Stus-List Winter cover C 40

 

The boat had a custom made frame and cover.  I still have the frame, however, I 
had to throw the cover out as it had rotted due to a leaking roof where it was 
stored. (I wish they had told us.)

The frame is metal pipe.  I have four clamps to support the frame. I don't know 
if I should have more??

I want to cover the boat. 

I would like to either buy a used cover or a tarp to put over the frame but I 
do not know the dimensions of the original cover or who made it so I could call 
and ask. 

My husband passed. He would have known. Can anyone help me?

Thank you.

Patricia

 

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Stus-List Yanmar 3hmf

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

This is a big ask, but my service manuals for the Yanmar 3HMF with Kanzaki 
KBW10E transmission are on the boat, which is 4+ hrs away.  

 

I need to replace the dampening disk and am hoping someone on the list has 
manuals and can send me torque specs and any other disassembly/assembly 
instructions the manuals may provide.  I would like to be sure I have all the 
needed tools when I next go up for the repair.  Any other ad hoc advice is 
appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

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Re: Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I did g-flex on the keel joint year before last.   Pleasantly surprised at haul 
out last fall.  

 

I plan to pull the mast the end of this season and torque the bolts.  Hoping I 
don’t have to redo the keel joint…again.  

 

So far, I’m a fan.  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2018 6:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass

 

G-Flex is my go to - it's inexpensive and comes in a caulking gun cartridge.

I used it to cover my keel joint before adding fairing compound and bbottom 
paint. Fairing Compound doesn't seal water very well so you need something 
strong and a little flexible. This is my first time using it below the 
waterline but west systems says it works so I went with it.

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C 44

Halifax, NS

 

On Tue, Jun 5, 2018 at 12:24 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hauled out today for a quick bottom job. Yard suggested fibreglass for the 
crack, but then there’s also G-Flex. Epoxy and fairing could be an option but 
that would add on to the project. Any success or opinions on one or the other? 
It’s a minor smile, no torquing keel bolts at dropping anything. 

Chris
80’ C 30 MK1

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List 37 line Recommendations?

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

John - 
Here's a reference to help you with loads.
http://www.harken.com/Calculators/ 

I race and typically go with smaller diameter lines to help them run more
smoothly.  3/8" (10mm) for almost everything except the main halyard is
7/16".  But that also means I upgrade the type of line to reduce stretch and
hopefully improve longevity.  Don't ask what type of line I bought.  It was
3 yrs ago and I don't remember.  Somewhere mid-way between the really
expensive stuff and the not as expensive stuff and within the WL of the
line. 

Pete
'84 37
  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John Conklin via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 7:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

I have the wire to rope sheaves on my  main and spin halyard 1982 C 37
Alsoa rookie here and no idea on size or material for my Topping lift, Genoa
sheets, spin halyard Lack of use by previous owner have most of them firm
swollen and stiff and green !:( lol Would like to change out genoa sheets,
spin halyard (wire to rope) mainsheet, and traveler to start. 
Will race her a little but plans are ( for now) to only have this beauty for
a few years so dont want to go too crazy Thanks all!!

John
S/V Halcyon

John Conklin


> On May 14, 2018, at 12:32 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> If your boat still has the right sheaves, then wire and rope combination
halyards are still a viable  option. There is very little stretch and
polyester has the best hand in my opinion. No issues to speak of with eye
splices either. Also relatively low cost. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> 
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
>  Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Hello all,
> We have a 1994 C 37/40+.  We've owned the boat for about a year.  The
halyards are badly faded from the sun, and we noticed an area where the core
is showing at the eye splice around the shackles.  The current halyards are
Sta-Set X.
> We don't race, so super high-tech line is unnecessary, but that doesn't
mean I want have to re-tension the halyards when I'm sailing, either.  
> 
> On my last boat (a C 27 MKIII), I tried the Sta-Set X 15 years ago or
so, and didn't like the feel, and I think I remember the line slipping in
the clutches as well.   That has not been the case on this boat, but the
line is old...
> I've seen some recommendations for NE Ropes VPC.
> 
> What do you recommend for halyards and why?
> Thanks!  
>  Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL 34677
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Nexus Race

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Fair enough.

 

Anyone know of applications/tools that calculate Target Boat Speed/Angle from 
polars and broadcasts values over N2K?  And low cost? 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 2:46 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race

 

Nope.  I have Nexus Classic instruments with a NMEA 0183 multiplexer with USB 
port.  Not sure I have a PC with an old enough version of Windows.

 

Thinking there are other programs out there that have same or better 
functionality.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandevile, LA

 

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:41 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Anyone run Nexus Race?  And tie in with instruments?

 

 

Get Outlook for iOS  

__

 

 

 


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Re: Stus-List C 34 plus auto pilots

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I’ve installed both Ray electric ram and a hydraulic.  The hydraulic is 
slightly more resistance as Gary describes, but the advantage of significant 
less amp draw far outweighs this.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 4:43 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34 plus auto pilots



No matter which brand autopilot you use (mine is B
 Zeus2, I would recommend you use the Raymarine electric ram.  The hydraulic 
units have far too much drag and ruin the feel of the rudder.



Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~



On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 5:27 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

I was told that you could not put an underdeck on my 34+ and so went with a 
wheel pilot.  I have since learned that it is possible, and not really that 
hard.  I wish I had known it sooner, as I really liked the hydraulic unit my 
older boat had.  I would contact Colin Mack at Mack Sails.  He did someone’s 
boat and has a customized installation they can do for you or can sell you what 
you need for self-installation.  Dave



Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT







On Oct 27, 2017, at 9:17 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List  > wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

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