[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, For those of you who have not heard of our little net let me give you an introduction. We meet on two bands on Sunday afternoon and evening depending upon where you live in North America. The NCS (me and a few other) calls for check ins via the handy CQ method and works them in order. If you are new to the net we take name and state or province. Then if you have an Elecraft rig we ask you for rig type (K1, K2, KX1) and its serial number. Once you have checked in a few times we simply exchange weather and signal reports with a few other details of our lives. Power levels range from 150 mW to the legal limit. Elecraft rigs are not required. We like to hear from a lot of areas and different weather conditions. CW speed ranges from 5 wpm or so up to 35 wpm or there abouts. NCS tries to stick at about 20 wpm with spaces as necessary. The included URL points at a few scripts and other odds and ends about the net. We have been running for nearly 2 years and have continued support. It seems folks are having fun and I know I am. Please join us : Monday z (Sunday 4pm PST) 14050 kHz Monday 0300z (Sunday 7pm PST) 7045 kHz Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for net details. Thank you Dan. Weather in Oregon is starting to turn back into Spring but one can never tell here. The propagation may or may not be good but with experienced relay stations we do try to get all who call into the log book and on to the inclusive database. Since our time does not change until after Midnight I am not going to mess with our net schedule until next week. Hope I can do the math correctly this time and not be two hours off like I was last Autumn :( Take care, Kevin. KD5ONS -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.0 - Release Date: 3/31/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: wanted - iambic paddles for new ham
Greetings everyone, My 13-year-old son got his ticket last week (KE7DMK) and is quickly learning - and liking - CW. I built him a little memory keyer to practice with, but he is in need of paddles to use with it. If you have an old and/or spare pair of paddles that you would part with free or cheap (he is on the 50/50 plan with me, I pay half, but his half could be an obstacle at the moment), please contact me off-list. Thanks & 73, Doug N7BNT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XG1 battery voltage(s) reference needed
Rick Commo wrote: Could someone with an XG1 please measure the battery voltage with the board switched off and then the board switched on> I need a reference point since I have tried three batteries in mine and the yellow light always comes on. My batteries were anywhere from 3.05 to 3.15 no load, but dropped to 2.9 or less under load. Thanks, -rick, K7LOG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Rick, I'm getting 3.15 off & 2.95 on 73, Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] XG1 battery voltage(s) reference needed
Rick, 3.13 off 3.03 on Always a green light, d5, so far Roger, WA7BOC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rick Commo Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 8:24 PM To: Elecraft-Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] XG1 battery voltage(s) reference needed Could someone with an XG1 please measure the battery voltage with the board switched off and then the board switched on> I need a reference point since I have tried three batteries in mine and the yellow light always comes on. My batteries were anywhere from 3.05 to 3.15 no load, but dropped to 2.9 or less under load. Thanks, -rick, K7LOG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XG1 battery voltage(s) reference needed
Rick Commo wrote: Could someone with an XG1 please measure the battery voltage with the board switched off and then the board switched on> I need a reference point since I have tried three batteries in mine and the yellow light always comes on. My batteries were anywhere from 3.05 to 3.15 no load, but dropped to 2.9 or less under load. Thanks, -rick, K7LOG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Rick, I'm getting 3.15 off & 2.95 on 73, Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RF Noise canceller ?
Just a question for the technically inclined group members: How feasible or worth the effort, would be the addition of an option to the K2 which would sample RF noise from a ferquency close to the used band,(tunable?) which is devoid of signals, phase invert and reinject the noise to an IF stage or even the antenna input in order to cancel our the "white or pulse" noise components, preserving the desired signal ? Why similar circuits are not preferred in HF receiver designs instead of DSP filters ? Similar circuits are commonly used in biomedical devices (called linear averagers if I am not mistaken) and are very effective in isolating electric signals from a particular organ eg Heart in EKG or brain area of interest in EEG, filtering out the irrelevant noise from the muscle cells... Just some food for thought. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XG1 battery voltage(s) reference needed
Could someone with an XG1 please measure the battery voltage with the board switched off and then the board switched on> I need a reference point since I have tried three batteries in mine and the yellow light always comes on. My batteries were anywhere from 3.05 to 3.15 no load, but dropped to 2.9 or less under load. Thanks, -rick, K7LOG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K1-4 FS - new
I have a new K1-4 S/N 1910 just built for another individual who changed his mind. So now someone has the opportunity to buy new, built and tested Elecraft K1 at a tremendous savings. It's set up for 40-30-20 and 15 meters with metal shaft vfo and about 170 Khz tuning range. Includes the internal automatic tuner option and finger dimple on tuning knob( no noise blanker or internal battery pack). Power out is 5 watts all bands. All in excellent working order as expected with a brand new radio. Manuals and Errata sheets included. The K1 currently is equipped with the K6XX SMD Visible LED CW Tuning (Zero Beat) Indicator kit as provided by Tom Hammond, N0SS. This was installed so as to be easily removed leaving the K1 completely stock (no holes or circuit alterations). This add-on will be removed unless the buyer indicates otherwise for an additional $20 to the K1 price. I have been building kits and projects for over 25 years. This is my 2nd K1 and I've built a pair of K2's and most other Elecraft products. Price is only $400 ($420 with Zero Beat option) plus shipping and insurance. I will accept check or money order. I can also accept Paypal for instant shipment but please add 3% to cover the Paypal fees. This price is firm as the unit is new and unused. PLEASE RESPOND OFF THE LIST to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Pete WK8S ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Display
Wayne, If there are no stripes - REMOVE nothing from either the diffuser or the LCD display. The white tape/paper never should come off the backlight assembly. After you finish all the soldering, and before putting the front panel on, remove the thin clear plastic film from the front of the LCD. You can usually scrape up a bit of the corner with a fingernail - if you prefer to use a tool, be careful not to scrape the hard plastic (glasslike) LCD front surface. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > > I am building K2 04858 and have arrived at the display > installation in the front panel. I have a couple questions and > am too impatient to wait for the Elecraft gang to open up about > noon [here] Monday so I turn to this group. > 1. When does the kind of flimsy white tape/paper come off the > diffuser/LED backlight assembly? > 2. Is only the front tape removed? > 3. The LCD display has a grey mylar looking tape on the back. > No 'stripes' but opaque so I assume it must be removed for the > backlight to shine thru? > 4. Does a correctly prepared LCD display have anything on the > back or should I see bare glass? > 5. Any problems identifying the removable film from the front of > the LCD display [DO NOT PICK OFF THE THICK PLASTIC MATERIAL > .] I assume this is the clear case of the LCD? > > Curious minds. Obviously my first K2. Some of you have tons > more experience. Build going well so far. Only a couple anxious > moments installing the push button switches, bent a pin and > managed to get one switch cocked but fixed that. > > Wayne K9NE > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Display
OK! I'm new at this. Ignore my previous message! I did a search of this list and found the answers: Leave everything on the LED and LCD alone! Check for a clear protective coating at time of mounting the circuit to the front panel, per manual. Right? Wayne K9NE K2 S/N 04858 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Display
I am building K2 04858 and have arrived at the display installation in the front panel. I have a couple questions and am too impatient to wait for the Elecraft gang to open up about noon [here] Monday so I turn to this group. 1. When does the kind of flimsy white tape/paper come off the diffuser/LED backlight assembly? 2. Is only the front tape removed? 3. The LCD display has a grey mylar looking tape on the back. No 'stripes' but opaque so I assume it must be removed for the backlight to shine thru? 4. Does a correctly prepared LCD display have anything on the back or should I see bare glass? 5. Any problems identifying the removable film from the front of the LCD display [DO NOT PICK OFF THE THICK PLASTIC MATERIAL .] I assume this is the clear case of the LCD? Curious minds. Obviously my first K2. Some of you have tons more experience. Build going well so far. Only a couple anxious moments installing the push button switches, bent a pin and managed to get one switch cocked but fixed that. Wayne K9NE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] HM2 mic
Thanks for all the replies. I have now found a microphone. 73, Charlie, W0YG..>> ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2
Thanks, Don. Your diagnosis was correct. Voltages are now right and the receiver hears for the first time. Thanks for being there with all of your Elecraft knowledge! 73, Dave N7AF - Original Message - From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Cyberider" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 11:51 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2 > Dave, > > You did anticipate my next question, and now I believe I can say that Q3 has > been somehow zapped since it appears to be conduction with a very low > voltage on the gate. Replace it with the 2N7000 that remains unmounted in > your K2 parts and request a replacement from Elecraft so you can fill the > holes at Q10 on the RF board later. I beileve that will fix your problem. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > -Original Message- > > > > Thanks for the reply, Don. > > > > D6 and D7 are oriented properly. > > > > I am measuring 7.94 volts on the collector of Q1 and 7.15 volts on the > > collector of Q2. > > > > Anticipating your next question, on Q3 I am measuring: S=0 > > G=47mV D=51 mV. > > D should be 8 volts according to the manual. > > > > Tnx & 73, > > Dave > > N7AF > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: "Cyberider" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; > > Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 10:49 AM > > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2 > > > > > > > Dave, > > > > > > It would appear from those readings that either you have D6 or D7 > > installed > > > backwards or that both the 8R and 8T voltage lines are active, and they > > > should be mutually exclusive. > > > > > > First check the diode orientation against the Parts Placement Diagram in > > the > > > rear of your manual, and if these are correct, measure the sources of 8R > > and > > > 8T at the collectors of Q1 (8T) and Q2 (8R) on the Control > > Board. If both > > > are near 8 volts at the same time, you have a problem with the > > controlling > > > circuit in the base of Q1. > > > > > > Let us know what you find and we can proceed from there. > > > > > > 73, > > > Don W3FPR > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > > > > > I am not getting any significant signal input from the antenna > > > > and the loss seems to be at D6. In trying to determine whether > > > > D6 is at fault, I'm measuring 7.13 volts on the anode and 7.31 > > > > volts on the cathode. The manual indicates they should be 8.0 > > > > and 7.5 volts respectively. On D7, I'm measuring 7.94 volts on > > > > the anode and 7.31 volts on the cathode. The manual indicates > > > > 0.0 (error?) and 7.5 volts respectively. Before I blame D6 for > > > > the loss of signal, is there something else going on here that > > > > may be causing the problem? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Dave > > > > N7AF > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] No output or receive on 60 meters
This past week I installed both the 60m & 160m modules as well as the NB to my otherwise stock K2 (#4786). Initially I had a similar problem but then reallized I hadn't formally completed all the steps for setting up the 60m option. I hadn't set the menu for D19 = Y. After I did that then I was able to tune the VCO voltage on 40m in range (it had been stuck at 8.0V). So first, make sure you have done that. If that doesn't fix it double check to see that components (jumpers, capacitors, resistors, etc) on the RF board that need to be removed/replaced per the instructions. If that still doesn't fix it recheck the 60m module for shorts or opens (unsoldered connections). If that fails, perhaps putting the RF board back to the original configuration and removing the mods for 60m to see if 40m returns to normal for you. Oh, one other thing I thought of, make sure that D19 & D20 are installed with the correct orientation. Mark, NK8Q [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I may have posted this twice not sure. My Elecraft K2 4728 Has bothe the 169 and the 60 Meter Add on Module. 160 as well as the rest of the radio works great at both High 100 watts and low, QRP levels. But not on 60 Meters. I can get the VCO voltage fine and yes the radio tunes 60 meters, but I can not receive on it or peak C1 and C2 as nothing is heard. Also 40 Meters has now went Dead. I get no power output on 40 or 60 Meters but full out put on the rest of the Ham Bands. Any help would be appreciated. This is first installation of this Mod Board, so it never has worked yet. Thanks Bruce N9BX 73 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] No output or receive on 60 meters
I may have posted this twice not sure. My Elecraft K2 4728 Has bothe the 169 and the 60 Meter Add on Module. 160 as well as the rest of the radio works great at both High 100 watts and low, QRP levels. But not on 60 Meters. I can get the VCO voltage fine and yes the radio tunes 60 meters, but I can not receive on it or peak C1 and C2 as nothing is heard. Also 40 Meters has now went Dead. I get no power output on 40 or 60 Meters but full out put on the rest of the Ham Bands. Any help would be appreciated. This is first installation of this Mod Board, so it never has worked yet. Thanks Bruce N9BX 73 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2
Dave, You did anticipate my next question, and now I believe I can say that Q3 has been somehow zapped since it appears to be conduction with a very low voltage on the gate. Replace it with the 2N7000 that remains unmounted in your K2 parts and request a replacement from Elecraft so you can fill the holes at Q10 on the RF board later. I beileve that will fix your problem. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Thanks for the reply, Don. > > D6 and D7 are oriented properly. > > I am measuring 7.94 volts on the collector of Q1 and 7.15 volts on the > collector of Q2. > > Anticipating your next question, on Q3 I am measuring: S=0 > G=47mV D=51 mV. > D should be 8 volts according to the manual. > > Tnx & 73, > Dave > N7AF > > - Original Message - > From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Cyberider" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; > Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 10:49 AM > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2 > > > > Dave, > > > > It would appear from those readings that either you have D6 or D7 > installed > > backwards or that both the 8R and 8T voltage lines are active, and they > > should be mutually exclusive. > > > > First check the diode orientation against the Parts Placement Diagram in > the > > rear of your manual, and if these are correct, measure the sources of 8R > and > > 8T at the collectors of Q1 (8T) and Q2 (8R) on the Control > Board. If both > > are near 8 volts at the same time, you have a problem with the > controlling > > circuit in the base of Q1. > > > > Let us know what you find and we can proceed from there. > > > > 73, > > Don W3FPR > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > > > I am not getting any significant signal input from the antenna > > > and the loss seems to be at D6. In trying to determine whether > > > D6 is at fault, I'm measuring 7.13 volts on the anode and 7.31 > > > volts on the cathode. The manual indicates they should be 8.0 > > > and 7.5 volts respectively. On D7, I'm measuring 7.94 volts on > > > the anode and 7.31 volts on the cathode. The manual indicates > > > 0.0 (error?) and 7.5 volts respectively. Before I blame D6 for > > > the loss of signal, is there something else going on here that > > > may be causing the problem? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Dave > > > N7AF > > > > > > > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] German Manual for the T1 ATU ready
I hereby proudly anounce, that all German manuals for the T1 are ready. Of course the errata is included in the German REV A manual :-) This manuals are real manuals not only a piece of paper with a translation to be used with the original manual. The layout is 1:1 page compatible to the original. That´s sometimes not so easy because in German language the text parts are up to 30% longer. It was a great help that the original manual did not save paper by a compressed Layout :-) 73 de Peter, DL2FI www.qrpproject.de With stiff fingers now after some dozen hours of typing. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2
Thanks for the reply, Don. D6 and D7 are oriented properly. I am measuring 7.94 volts on the collector of Q1 and 7.15 volts on the collector of Q2. Anticipating your next question, on Q3 I am measuring: S=0 G=47mV D=51 mV. D should be 8 volts according to the manual. Tnx & 73, Dave N7AF - Original Message - From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Cyberider" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 10:49 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2 > Dave, > > It would appear from those readings that either you have D6 or D7 installed > backwards or that both the 8R and 8T voltage lines are active, and they > should be mutually exclusive. > > First check the diode orientation against the Parts Placement Diagram in the > rear of your manual, and if these are correct, measure the sources of 8R and > 8T at the collectors of Q1 (8T) and Q2 (8R) on the Control Board. If both > are near 8 volts at the same time, you have a problem with the controlling > circuit in the base of Q1. > > Let us know what you find and we can proceed from there. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > -Original Message- > > > > I am not getting any significant signal input from the antenna > > and the loss seems to be at D6. In trying to determine whether > > D6 is at fault, I'm measuring 7.13 volts on the anode and 7.31 > > volts on the cathode. The manual indicates they should be 8.0 > > and 7.5 volts respectively. On D7, I'm measuring 7.94 volts on > > the anode and 7.31 volts on the cathode. The manual indicates > > 0.0 (error?) and 7.5 volts respectively. Before I blame D6 for > > the loss of signal, is there something else going on here that > > may be causing the problem? > > > > Thanks, > > Dave > > N7AF > > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Feasibility of KPA-1(?)
Look for http://www.communication-concepts.com AN762 kit for 140 or 180 W EB10 kit for 600W On Sat, 2 Apr 2005 12:44:31 EST, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: From Space Cadet To the Mother Ship (Elecraft): I sure enjoy my K1, s/n #01453, and use it daily. However, there are times when I'm chasing DX that I'd like to be able to switch in a 10 dB boost to my output. Could we explore the feasibility of offering a kit amplifier for the K1 (say a KPA-1)? -- Benny AUMALA OH9NB [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2
Dave, It would appear from those readings that either you have D6 or D7 installed backwards or that both the 8R and 8T voltage lines are active, and they should be mutually exclusive. First check the diode orientation against the Parts Placement Diagram in the rear of your manual, and if these are correct, measure the sources of 8R and 8T at the collectors of Q1 (8T) and Q2 (8R) on the Control Board. If both are near 8 volts at the same time, you have a problem with the controlling circuit in the base of Q1. Let us know what you find and we can proceed from there. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I am not getting any significant signal input from the antenna > and the loss seems to be at D6. In trying to determine whether > D6 is at fault, I'm measuring 7.13 volts on the anode and 7.31 > volts on the cathode. The manual indicates they should be 8.0 > and 7.5 volts respectively. On D7, I'm measuring 7.94 volts on > the anode and 7.31 volts on the cathode. The manual indicates > 0.0 (error?) and 7.5 volts respectively. Before I blame D6 for > the loss of signal, is there something else going on here that > may be causing the problem? > > Thanks, > Dave > N7AF > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Feasibility of KPA-1(?)
>From Space Cadet To the Mother Ship (Elecraft): I sure enjoy my K1, s/n #01453, and use it daily. However, there are times when I'm chasing DX that I'd like to be able to switch in a 10 dB boost to my output. Could we explore the feasibility of offering a kit amplifier for the K1 (say a KPA-1)? I'd suggest that most owners of the K1 would immediately purchase it (1500+ units?). It could also make the K1 more attractive to the part-time QRPers, like me. The only disadvantage that immediately comes to mind is that the KAT-1 antenna tuner couldn't be used with it and would have to be removed. However, perhaps the KPA-1 could be plugged in its place? Are we looking at 7-8 amps current draw, instead of 1 amp? If you're a subscriber to this list and would like to see a KPA-1 amplifier kit, please join me in letting Elecraft know. R/ Jim K5HO - Nunquam Secundum ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] the SLP
| | d . | |.| | . | | .30| | . - c |.| | .- | | . | | 20- . | |.| 0|-.___> 0 a I have been asked by several how I arrived at the answer to the SLP (silly ladder problem) of an alley width of 12.3119 feet. It takes one back to junior high school, which is always a fun thing to do if you are masocistic. Consider the above diagram (which requires mono spaced type to look correct). Let the origin of a Cartesian coordinate system be the lower left-hand corner. We have a 20 foot ladder (the - line) leaning up c feet against one wall, and a 30 foot ladder (the . line) leaning up d feet against the opposite wall. Let the alley width be "a". Recalling your junior high math stuff (Pythagorus' theorem, equations of straight lines, solving two linear simultaneous equations) we have by Pythagorus that c = Sqrt(20^2 - a^2), and d = Sqrt(30^2 - a^2). Thus the equation (y = mx + b) for the 20-foot ladder line is y = (c/a)x, and that for the 30-foot ladder line is y = -(d/a)x + d. Solving these two equations simultaneosly for x and y (set them equal to solve for x, then substitute back into the first to get y) gives the coordinates at which they cross. The y value (as a function of a) for this solultion is y = cd/(c+d), and we require the value of "a" that makes this 10 feet, i.e., the a such that cd/(c+d) = 10. This is 12.3119 feet. Note that a = 0 also solves this problem as it was stated, although it is not the "interesting" answer. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Alignment and Test Part 2
I am not getting any significant signal input from the antenna and the loss seems to be at D6. In trying to determine whether D6 is at fault, I'm measuring 7.13 volts on the anode and 7.31 volts on the cathode. The manual indicates they should be 8.0 and 7.5 volts respectively. On D7, I'm measuring 7.94 volts on the anode and 7.31 volts on the cathode. The manual indicates 0.0 (error?) and 7.5 volts respectively. Before I blame D6 for the loss of signal, is there something else going on here that may be causing the problem? Thanks, Dave N7AF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tin Whiskers
i have experienced some whisker failures. i have a bunch of printed info and articles on the subject. Even some of the old Mil Spec parts 19500/35510 had tin plating. Paul w0rw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 L33 (BFO) aesthetics & adhesives
Hello all What I did was to stick one of those double sided foam pads about 1 inch square and 1mm thick the type you stick posters up with onto the bottom cover then all I did was remove the backing of the pad that would be in contact with L33 and stick a cut square of black electrical tape onto the sticky pad and it is very difficult to remove, I have removed the bottom cover a number of times and it really sticks,please note I have not stuck anything direct to L33, my thoughts are that a small insulator could be supplied with the kit maybee a bigger version of the pads that are stuck on the corners of the front panel board what do you think elecraft.. M1MGD G-QRP 11355 Elecraft K1 #1532 K2 #4785..72/73.. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Long Delayed Echoes
-Original Message- Guys - Let's kill this thread now. It was dealt with and explained more than a day ago via private email between us and we're all happy :-) Must be a night for Long Delayed Echoes... - Wow, you have just experienced an LDE which is longer than anyone else before you Possible explanations for the rest of them can be found here: http://heim.ifi.uio.no/~sverre/LDE/ 73 Sverre LA3ZA http://www.qsl.net/la3za/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Tin Whiskers
Check this out, and hope that you used some solder with Pb in it! http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/photos/ Mike VK1KCK K2#2599 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
