[Elecraft] K2 s/n 4886 assembled

2005-06-29 Thread jon howe
Hi:
No doubt this is old hat to some 5000 of you out there, but I have just
made it to the end of Chapter 7, so consider this one built.
The first thing that ever popped up on my display was INFO 80, and there
were times when I wondered if I might turn 80 before reaching page 80.
But I did it, and I owe a debt of gratitude to those (you know who you
are) who responded to my queries, both on and off list.
Hey, this kit comes with a great instruction manual.
But as the saying goes, you can't learn everything by just reading a
book.
I have a few things to do, such as build the options.
And, more to the point, the CW test to get HF privileges.
So for the time being, s/n 4886 lets me do little more than hone my
listening skills.  Which probably isn't such a bad thing in the long
haul.
Armed with my experience, and a whole lot more confidence, I will now
turn my attention to completing s/n 3460, which has proven to be a bit
of a problem child.
Regardless, I'm having fun and learning lots.
Hats off to the collective genius that kept me going in the right
direction.
jh, VE8JJ

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Re: [Elecraft] For SSB op's only, T/R delay K2

2005-06-29 Thread Margaret Leber

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


When you release the PTT switch, do you hear audio instantly or is
there a small delay.  As a comparison, there is virtually no delay
when I use my ICOM radio.


On S/N 1641 there is no perceptable delay whatsoever. Perhaps you might 
want to check stuff in the AGC section?


 73 de Maggie K3XS


--
-/___.   _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/The art of progress /
/(, /|  /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/
---/   / | / |  _   _   _`  _  AOPA 925383/ amid change and to  /
--/ ) /  |/  |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_  K3XS / preserve change amid/
-/ (_/   '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order.-A.N.Whitehead/
/(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/


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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 noise and remote PA

2005-06-29 Thread Sam Smith
Thanks, Lyle,
Yes, I have K2 #1013 - lucky 13. I'm sure I bought the KIO2 as soon as
it came out. I'll check the crystal fequency tonight.

Isn't there also a KIO2 in my remote PA? That one is probably the newer crystal?

Sam N4MAP
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[Elecraft] For Sale

2005-06-29 Thread Larry Walker (KW4A)
Since I have the K2/100 I have no need for the old top cover. This is
complete with KIO2 ($89 kit price), KAT2 ($159 kit price), KBT2 ($67 price),
with speaker and of course the cover itself. All ready to plug in and
operate.  This is a $300+ value (not counting assembly time) for $225. Save
time and money with this unit. In excellent physical and electronic
condition.

Contact me off list please.


Larry Walker KW4A
 K2 Ser# 811
(423)365-4460
www.LaserLarry.com

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Re: [Elecraft] G00 G31

2005-06-29 Thread mc

Hi Chuck.

I had  changed the connector and redid the joints and put fresh and 
voltage checked alkaline batteries. I was at 2.2 watts. r1.1 at 14060 as 
planned and yes you heard  the call right it is KB7DPC but I heard nothing, 
that space on the dial was completely quiet. But a little later that evening 
I noticed that 14058 area was very busy with several fast code.


There are fires in the mountains but I don't think smoke interferes with 
transmission. I am guessing that since you heard me you are about 1200 miles 
away so I can see how just a couple of watts can work. At the HAM contest 
most guys commented that life is too short to go without a kilowatt. Every 
one there had transceivers of 100 watts, so I pretty amazed with what a 
couple of watts can do.


Ok lets talk filter. I have been using the filter this way, all the way to 
2.0 when searching for signals and all the way to 0.5 when sending. Is the 
filter in the circuit when sending I thought it would be in the circuit 
only when receiving.


RIT, still not sure even though reading several items on this one. but I 
have turned the RIT to  OFF, when should it be turned on.


MC -- KB7DPC







Mike,
I heard your CQ on 14,060 at 0108 GMT (2008 CST or 2108 Eastern). The band
was fading in and out pretty bad I cranked up power to about 50 watts to
give you a reply.  I sure hope it was not wishful thinking but I copied
KB7DPC.
I copied you at about 439 to 559 depending on how the band was at the time
of your call.  If you did not hear me reply you may have your band filter
set too narrow.  I normally have my filter set to 2.0 unless the band is
really crowded, then as I continue the QSO I may narrow the filter a bit 
as

I fine tune.  Normally .75 to1.0 on my filter is fine.  I leave my RF gain
all the up all the time and only adjust the AF Gain a little bit during 
the

QSO , to a comfortable listening level.  When folks reply there is no real
guarantee that they will be zerod on your exact freq.   Plus the KX1 has a
hard wired 600Hz Transmit Offset, so if the filter is too narrow and you
have not turned on the RIT offset you may not be hearing the replies.

Man don't ask me how all this RIT  XIT stuff works or how to set it cause 
I
don't know..  I just know it is there and try to work with it.  Someday 
when
I can get a Eyeball QSO with some of these really big time Elmers like 
W3FPR

Don Wilhelm or N0SS Tom Hammond, I will pay them to give me a class on
setting my RIT, for now work around it.

I would have hung on the air longer and tried to catch you on 7060.  But
Thunderstorms rolled into the area and I had to shut down.   We are almost
there hand in there buddy we are going to make this work.  Your CW speed 
and

spacing sounded pretty good easy copy except for the QSB (fading)

As far as your question about the KXAT1 improving reception.  It is my
understanding that the tuner is trying to match the impedance of the 
antenna
to your radio by using CAP and inductors, in effect electronically 
lengthing
or shortening the antenna for a match.  The better the match the better 
the
reception.  If you got a reply that says something different I would like 
to

see it.
73 KI4DGH

Chuck Gehring

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of mc
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 9:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] G00 G31


with the KXAT1 installed, what does this feature actual do to make receive
better.
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery vs Ultracapacitor

2005-06-29 Thread w8ur
At 11:18 PM 6/27/2005, Kevin Rock wrote...
If I have done this correctly you should be able to run a QRP rig key down for 
approximately 14 minutes with a fully charged 5K Farad ultracapacitor.

Discharge curves vary significantly between caps and batteries. Caps discharge 
exponentially, and the voltage would drop to an unusable level rather quickly. 
Chemical batteries have a much flatter discharge curve, and much more of the 
available power is therefore useful. More of the available power in a cap could 
be used with active voltage regulation (step-up), but that would bring further 
inefficiencies into play.


Mike Sauve
W8UR
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[Elecraft] Back to the Future - Morse Code and Cellular Phones

2005-06-29 Thread Margaret Leber

 Published on The O'Reilly Network (http://www.oreillynet.com/)
 http://www.oreillynet.com/pub/wlg/7016

Back to the Future - Morse Code and Cellular Phones
by Brian McConnell
Jun. 28, 2005

I've spent most of the past five or so years thinking about handheld 
devices, their limitations and how to work around them. Having worked 
with telephones since I was in high school, this has been something of 
an obsession.



The hot trend today is to cram every feature imaginable into mobile 
telephone handsets. This has led to some cool things like camera phones, 
mobile gaming, and such. The problem is that a lot of designers overlook 
some basic limitations in these devices, and more importantly, the 
situations in which people use them.



Cellular phones are all about mobility. Good mobility applications 
recognize that the user is often in motion (walking, driving, etc). 
Safety and convenience require that the application should demand as 
little visual attention as possible. Badly designed applications force 
the user to stare at the telephone's display instead of paying attention 
to surrounding environs. This is why speech user interfaces work so well 
for mobile users. They allow the user to interact with a service in a 
heads up stance, without looking at the phone. Unfortunately, most 
mobile applications are of the badly designed let's take a PC interface 
and shrink it down category.



Text messaging is an enormously popular service, but it too suffers from 
this basic user interface conflict. Sending and receiving text messages 
requires the user to look at the display. Receiving messages can be done 
at a glance, so this is not such a burden. Sending them is another 
story. Some people are adept at tapping messages on numeric keypads, but 
doing so requires the user to pay attention to the display. Try writing 
a text message without looking at the phone. Not easy.



Tapping


Morse Code, or a derivative of it, could be one way to solve this 
problem. With Morse Code, one could tap text messages out without 
looking at the telephone, and without having to fumble with ever smaller 
keypads. I'll admit that the idea of resurrecting Morse Code seems 
improbable, but then it's worth remembering that only a few years ago, 
the idea of people typing with their thumbs also seemed absurd.



How might Morse be incorporated into a telephone handset. I sketched out 
a fairly simple interface. Here's what I came up with.



The telephone would have a fairly large pressure sensitive panel on its 
back side, big enough that you would not have to look at the phone to 
locate it. It might also be possible to use the telephone's existing 
microphone to sense taps (although discriminating between short and long 
pulses could be a problem).



You'd send messages in a couple of different ways depending on how you 
were carrying the phone at the time. I devised a couple of tweaks to 
make the process of sending messages faster.



When carrying the phone at your side, you could send messages with one 
hand by tapping on the back of the phone in the convention dot (short) 
and dash (notation). The panel would interpret a brief pulse as a dot, a 
longer pulse as a dash. Timing is important, so this method of sending 
messages takes more practice.



With both hands free or with the phone resting on a surface, you could 
use a slightly different method to tap messages. Holding the phone in 
one hand and tapping with the other, you'd tap the panel with your 
fingernail to send a dot, and with your whole fingertip to send a dash. 
Timing is much less important here, so this method will be easier for 
people to learn.



Receiving messages is less of an issue, since they'll arrive as text 
messages. The sending telephone will convert the tapped dots and dashes 
into alphanumeric messages to be sent via SMS or IP. The receiving 
telephone will display these in the usual way (an option to play 
messages via text to speech synthesis would be a nice add-on, and as 
mobile phones become more powerful, should be easy enough to do).



Hands-Free Mobile Phone Features


Incorporating a Morse Code key into the back of a telephone handset has 
other uses besides tapping text messages. One of the things this enables 
you to do is to make it easier to control a telephone in hands-free mode.



For example, you could design the phone so that it recognizes certain 
codes as keypad commands, primarily for deciding how to deal with 
incoming calls.



.. = answer call
... = send call to voice mail
 = forward call to preprogrammed number


So while you're driving along, you could dispatch incoming calls as 
desired by tapping on the back of the handset, something you could do 
heads up, without taking your eyes off the road.



While this isn't Morse Code per se, it's the same idea, and it should be 
easy to train users to learn a handful of short two or three digit codes 
as in the example above. This is probably more realistic 

Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 noise and remote PA

2005-06-29 Thread Jack Brindle


On Jun 29, 2005, at 5:13 AM, Sam Smith wrote:


Thanks, Lyle,
Yes, I have K2 #1013 - lucky 13. I'm sure I bought the KIO2 as soon as
it came out. I'll check the crystal fequency tonight.


The KIO2 uses a crystal frequency of 16.289 MHz. It has NOT been  
changed since the unit's inception. The KRC2 uses the same crystal.


Isn't there also a KIO2 in my remote PA? That one is probably the  
newer crystal?


The KPA100 has a voltage generator that uses an 18.432 MHz crystal.  
This one _has_ been changed since the original kit. The original  
frequency was also 16.289 MHz.


It might be interesting to change the KIO2's crystal to 18.432 to see  
if the spurs you are encountering go away (or get moved to somewhere  
less interesting).



- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-



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Re: [Elecraft] Back to the Future - Morse Code and Cellular Phones

2005-06-29 Thread Sandy
Some good thoughts.  Morse Code is MORE than just sequences of 'dots' and 
'dashes'
(dits and dahs if you will!)
What is also VERY important is 'timing'.  if I send  'as'  'kin'  'g' instead 
of 'asking'
 or a word like 'yes'  'terd'  'ay' instead of 'yesterday' it has a great 
chance to
become misunderstood or garbled.
Morse has a definite beat like music, or you could say a cadence that must be
kept up with if it is to be easily understood.  I observe a lot of very 
disconnected
words being sent nowadays that makes the code much more difficult to decode
in the head.  ESPECIALLY when one begins to copy whole syllables and/or words.
The whole concept sounds very practical.  Something you can do without l
ooking at a keyboard too!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Margaret Leber [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:50 AM
Subject: [Elecraft]  Back to the Future - Morse Code and Cellular Phones


|   Published on The O'Reilly Network (http://www.oreillynet.com/)
|   http://www.oreillynet.com/pub/wlg/7016
|
| Back to the Future - Morse Code and Cellular Phones
| by Brian McConnell
| Jun. 28, 2005
|
| I've spent most of the past five or so years thinking about handheld
| devices, their limitations and how to work around them. Having worked
| with telephones since I was in high school, this has been something of
| an obsession.
|
|
| The hot trend today is to cram every feature imaginable into mobile
| telephone handsets. This has led to some cool things like camera phones,
| mobile gaming, and such. The problem is that a lot of designers overlook
| some basic limitations in these devices, and more importantly, the
| situations in which people use them.
|
|
| Cellular phones are all about mobility. Good mobility applications
| recognize that the user is often in motion (walking, driving, etc).
| Safety and convenience require that the application should demand as
| little visual attention as possible. Badly designed applications force
| the user to stare at the telephone's display instead of paying attention
| to surrounding environs. This is why speech user interfaces work so well
| for mobile users. They allow the user to interact with a service in a
| heads up stance, without looking at the phone. Unfortunately, most
| mobile applications are of the badly designed let's take a PC interface
| and shrink it down category.
|
|
| Text messaging is an enormously popular service, but it too suffers from
| this basic user interface conflict. Sending and receiving text messages
| requires the user to look at the display. Receiving messages can be done
| at a glance, so this is not such a burden. Sending them is another
| story. Some people are adept at tapping messages on numeric keypads, but
| doing so requires the user to pay attention to the display. Try writing
| a text message without looking at the phone. Not easy.
|
|
| Tapping
|
|
| Morse Code, or a derivative of it, could be one way to solve this
| problem. With Morse Code, one could tap text messages out without
| looking at the telephone, and without having to fumble with ever smaller
| keypads. I'll admit that the idea of resurrecting Morse Code seems
| improbable, but then it's worth remembering that only a few years ago,
| the idea of people typing with their thumbs also seemed absurd.
|
|
| How might Morse be incorporated into a telephone handset. I sketched out
| a fairly simple interface. Here's what I came up with.
|
|
| The telephone would have a fairly large pressure sensitive panel on its
| back side, big enough that you would not have to look at the phone to
| locate it. It might also be possible to use the telephone's existing
| microphone to sense taps (although discriminating between short and long
| pulses could be a problem).
|
|
| You'd send messages in a couple of different ways depending on how you
| were carrying the phone at the time. I devised a couple of tweaks to
| make the process of sending messages faster.
|
|
| When carrying the phone at your side, you could send messages with one
| hand by tapping on the back of the phone in the convention dot (short)
| and dash (notation). The panel would interpret a brief pulse as a dot, a
| longer pulse as a dash. Timing is important, so this method of sending
| messages takes more practice.
|
|
| With both hands free or with the phone resting on a surface, you could
| use a slightly different method to tap messages. Holding the phone in
| one hand and tapping with the other, you'd tap the panel with your
| fingernail to send a dot, and with your whole fingertip to send a dash.
| Timing is much less important here, so this method will be easier for
| people to learn.
|
|
| Receiving messages is less of an issue, since they'll arrive as text
| messages. The sending telephone will convert the tapped dots and dashes
| into alphanumeric messages to be sent via SMS or IP. The receiving
| telephone will display these in the 

[Elecraft] O.T. Datong FL3.

2005-06-29 Thread Mike

Hello Everyone!
Just wondering, if, amongst all the expertise  stored info amongst 
Elecraft list members, anybody has a schematic, or any other info on the 
Datong FL3 Audio Filter. These were made in England back in the 1980s  
I think that Datong is now out of business.


Plan on using it with my 2 x K2s (0681  2681).

Thanks  73 de Mike, zl1mh.



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.7/34 - Release Date: 29/06/2005

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RE: [Elecraft] RE: K2 and KPA 100- How Is Hi Current Generated

2005-06-29 Thread Mike Walkington
Hi Jim,

Good question.  While I have been troubleshooting the KPA I have left the
KAT100 out of circuit - I don't need it while transmitting into a dummy
load.  The AT-200 has a straight through mode for power measurement that I
am using. I only borrowed the AT-200 for power meter as the KAT100 is
excellent :).

Mike
VK1KCK
K2 #2599 

-Original Message-
From: k4zm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, 29 June 2005 9:44 AM
To: Mike Walkington
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 and KPA 100- How Is Hi Current Generated

Don:

Do you have the Kenwood AT-200 installed between the KPA100 and the KAT100 
or beween the KAT100 Output and the antenna?  If connected on the output of 
the KAT100 you cannot expect to see an accurate SWR/POWER indication on the 
AT-200.

73
Jim Younce K4ZM
K2  SN: 18 





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[Elecraft] 1) K2 with end fed antenna, 2) N-balun

2005-06-29 Thread Rolf Moberg, OH6KXL
After installing end fed long wire 26.5m antenna few meters higher 
situation become even worse in 15m and 12m.


15m: K2 is giving _only_ 2 or 3 watts output!
12m: when pressing TUNE, K2 will switch immediately to receive mode.

Is this a symptom of a) a big impedance or b) RF in the shack-problem.
Does the K2 has some kind of protection. I suspect SG231 autotuner 
cannot tune the antenna in those bands and SWR in the feedline between 
the K2 and auto tuner is big. Could this cause K2 to switch to receive?

K2 will give normal output to dummy load.

Second topic, do you have dealers in USA who are selling baluns for
dipole antennas which are supplied with N connectors? I cannot find them 
from

Finland. If you know, please let me know the dealer, privately.

Rolf Moberg
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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Datong FL3.

2005-06-29 Thread Nigel KC8NHF/G8IFF

Datong (www.datong.co.uk) are now in the surveillance business.
Unfortunately they never released schematics for their amateur products 
and often ground off the part numbers from the chips.


Mike wrote:


Hello Everyone!
Just wondering, if, amongst all the expertise  stored info amongst 
Elecraft list members, anybody has a schematic, or any other info on 
the Datong FL3 Audio Filter. These were made in England back in the 
1980s  I think that Datong is now out of business.


Plan on using it with my 2 x K2s (0681  2681).

Thanks  73 de Mike, zl1mh.






--

Nigel A. Gunn. 59 Beadlemead, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HF, England. 
Tel +44 (0)1908 604004

e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] or  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wwwhttp://www.ngunn.net  or  http://www.ngunn.demon.co.uk
Amateur radio stations  G8IFF, KC8NHF
Member of  AMSAT-UK #182, ARRL, GQRP Club, QRPARCI, SOC #548  RAYNET
  Flying Pig #385, Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA  LM-1691,


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Re: [Elecraft] 1) K2 with end fed antenna, 2) N-balun

2005-06-29 Thread thom2
Rolf,

  Are you using a counterpoise with that end fed?  If you aren't try one.  If 
you already are try raising it off the ground a bit.

Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103

 -- Original message --
From: Rolf Moberg, OH6KXL [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 After installing end fed long wire 26.5m antenna few meters higher 
 situation become even worse in 15m and 12m.
 
 15m: K2 is giving _only_ 2 or 3 watts output!
 12m: when pressing TUNE, K2 will switch immediately to receive mode.
 
 Is this a symptom of a) a big impedance or b) RF in the shack-problem.
 Does the K2 has some kind of protection. I suspect SG231 autotuner 
 cannot tune the antenna in those bands and SWR in the feedline between 
 the K2 and auto tuner is big. Could this cause K2 to switch to receive?
 K2 will give normal output to dummy load.
 
 Second topic, do you have dealers in USA who are selling baluns for
 dipole antennas which are supplied with N connectors? I cannot find them 
 from
 Finland. If you know, please let me know the dealer, privately.
 
 Rolf Moberg
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RE: [Elecraft] O.T. Datong FL3.

2005-06-29 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Actually, Mike, I think I've seen mention of Datong in
recent years.  Not totally dead yet.
Dr. D. A. Tong was a very clever designer, but he kept
his designs very close to his chest.  To the best of
my knowledge, the schematics for the FL3 or others
were never published.  I too have an FL3 and would
like to see the schematic, but no joy so far.
73, Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 11:38 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] O.T. Datong FL3.


Hello Everyone!
Just wondering, if, amongst all the expertise  stored info amongst 
Elecraft list members, anybody has a schematic, or any other info on the 
Datong FL3 Audio Filter. These were made in England back in the 1980s  
I think that Datong is now out of business.

Plan on using it with my 2 x K2s (0681  2681).

Thanks  73 de Mike, zl1mh.



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[Elecraft] whips

2005-06-29 Thread Chuck Mabbott
CB Channel 19 is 27.185 MHz and if the KTAT1 tuner has sufficient matching 
capability you could probably easily hit 12 or 10 meters.  it might even 
give 15 a shot.


The SGC tuner works quite well on 102 whip and the range is 80 up to 6 
meters but it has an extremely wide matching range.  I am not familiar with 
the characteristics of the KTAT1 but it won't hurt anything to try it.



- Original Message - 
From: mc [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 5:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] whips


If you have a KX1 with the KTAT1-antenna tuner ,, does anyone know if and 
how good an antenna from Marine VHF transceiver would be, the kind that sits 
on top of a cabin roof,  -- or a CB truck antenna it would  be the kind in 
those trucks parts catalogs. Both of these types come with strong support 
brackets and use coax but both are grounded to the negative system battery. 
don't know the frequency that either VHF Marine or CB radios use.


Mike
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RE: [Elecraft] whips

2005-06-29 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Check the base impedance at hf.  Some antennas have a vhf matching circuit
in the base
that will look like nearly a short at hf.  If it doesn't show an open
circuit at hf,
it will probably be very difficult to match at hf.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stuart Rohre
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 4:05 PM
To: mc; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] whips


Since the Marine band is 150 MHz VHF range, its matched antenna would not
make a good HF antenna.  However, with a tuner it might tune up on some ham
bands with some undefined pattern of takeoff depending on where the loading
coils for VHF are located on the Marine mast.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] whips

2005-06-29 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 29/06/05 23:50:28 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Check  the base impedance at hf.  Some antennas have a vhf matching  circuit
in the base
that will look like nearly a short at hf.  If  it doesn't show an open
circuit at hf,



Reply:-
 
What Bob, N6WG mentions are the VHF antennas that are 1/2 wavelength  or 
multiples of this and where the antenna feed end is at a high impedance. To  
match 
this a coil is inserted into the antenna base with the incoming 50 ohm  
feeder tapped in at an early point on the coil. Normally this type can  be 
located 
even with a sealed marine type antenna by checking the  resistance across the 
unplugged antenna lead should read S/C looking  towards the antenna. This type 
of VHF antenna should not be capable if  working on HF. However if there is 
no measurable S/C there is a good chance the  antenna is one that is a multiple 
of a 1/4 wavelength and as such could be used  as a short whip antenna for 
HF, though with rather limited efficiency.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 noise and remote PA

2005-06-29 Thread Sam Smith
I found a 16.9xx crystal on an old computer board and swapped it out.
Now the birdie has moved somewhere else.

My other choice was 16.670 but I figured that would wind up in the 6
meter band...

Thanks everyone for the help.

Sam N4MAP
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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Datong FL3.

2005-06-29 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 29/06/05 21:50:12 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Actually, Mike, I think I've seen mention of Datong in
recent  years.  Not totally dead yet.
Dr. D. A. Tong was a very clever  designer, but he kept
his designs very close to his chest.  To the  best of
my knowledge, the schematics for the FL3 or others
were never  published.  I too have an FL3 and would
like to see the schematic, but  no joy so far.
73, Bob N6WG



Reply:---
 
As Nigel mentions in an earlier posting, Datong Ltd are still very much in  
business in more upmarket RF tracking equipment sold to government  agencies.
 
I did contact the company recently trying to obtain a schematic for their  
earlier Datong DF1 FM direction finding unit that was marketed in the mid  
1980's. I have obtained one of these items to help in  the tracking an 
interfering 
signal (moron) on the input to our  local 2m repeater. Unfortunately the 
antenna combiner part of the DF1 had got  lost over the years, so the only 
option 
was to build another to get the DF1  working. Contacted Datong via their 
website listed address and though they were  initially willing to help, became 
unable to do so when a schematic was  requested. Only suggestion they made was 
to 
post a request for help in Radcom or  similar.
 
Never have seen any of their schematics available so possibly none were  ever 
given out. I traced out a schematic for their AD170/AD270  active RX antenna 
from the PCB as a necessity to repair the unit after it  got zapped by static 
electric during my years in the Middle  East.
 
Other than having a go yourself to trace out the schematic from the FL3  PCB, 
it may be worth contacting Datong via their website address to see if  they 
will help with the FL3 schematic.
 
As a footnote did finally find a project unit that was very similar  and 
compatible to the Datong DF1 that had the schematics available plus the  
necessary 
blank PCBs. In process of constructing this unit at present.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] Ser 4993 - First Problem

2005-06-29 Thread NZ8J
Well, everything went well until it was time to apply power for the first
time  :)

 All resistance checks were as they should have been to this point
 Applied power for the first time:
 heard the relays engage
 backlight came on
 Display is blank, nothing whatsoever in the display
 turned rig off and back on, no relays this time, but still
nothing in the display
 Doesn't appear to accept any button pushes at all, band +/-
does nothing,  as well as display, menu, etc
 good news is no smoke (yet)
 Not sure if it's significant or not, but the display seems
to flicker slightly, with the desk lamp off, it is noticeable


I've taken the boards out and rechecked all connections, etc, I can not see
anything obvious...

Any suggestions??

Thanks
Tim
NZ8J


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[Elecraft] K1: RF gain and RIT controls

2005-06-29 Thread BruceAA5B
I'm finally going to open the box I've had for 2 years and build a K1 so I'll 
have a rig for the Australian outback next month! Before I start, a couple of 
questions:

1. Has anyone come up with a good RF gain control, aka AGC threshold control? 
Please, no lectures about how the K1 doesn't need it, or how the RF 
attenuator works great. 

2. In searching the archives, I found hundreds of posts about the RIT range. 
Too many to sort through. Is the mod in the manual the best and simplist for 
reducing the RIT range, or was there a definitive posting of a better one? 
While I'm at it, is there a drop-in replacement for the RIT control that has a 
center detent?

Thanks!
-Bruce AA5B
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[Elecraft] K1 Tuning Range Quandary

2005-06-29 Thread David Dietrich
Good Evening All K1-4 Owners,

Construction of the K1 itself starts tomorrow evening after work!  When I got 
my K1, I opted for
the 4-band radio as primary, and I purchased the two-band module extra.  For my 
four-band I chose:
40-30-20-15.  I have 80  17 for the two band module.

It is starting to become decision time for me, and I am in a quandary.  Do I 
choose 80 or 150 KHz
as my tuning range?  I know the manual says that if you are building a 
four-band radio (Which I
am), you should choose the 80 KHz tuning range.  However, I am wondering how 
much
coverage/bandwidth I am losing/missing out on if I do choose 80 KHz.  With the 
10-turn
potentiometer, it means approximately 8 or 15 Khz per revolution of the knob.

I'd like to poll all K1 owners out there and see WHAT you chose and, more 
importantly, WHY.  I'd
also like to know HOW you feel about the decision since you have had a chance 
to use your rig.  If
Eric or Wayne is reading this post, I'd really like to hear your thoughts as 
well.  The last thing
I want to do is go back in and change the bandwidth once it is built.  Those 
thru-hole connections
are tough to desolder!

I thank you all in advance for your input.

73,

David A. Dietrich
KC9EHQ

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RE: [Elecraft] K1 Tuning Range Quandary

2005-06-29 Thread EricJ
It's only a matter of what you like, David. I built it for 150K bandspread,
and thought the tuning was way too fast for me. Most of my operating is near
the QRP and FISTS frequencies and in the first 10 khz of 40, 20 and 15. On
30 I never go below 10.100 and I never go above 10.120. So I give up nothing
and I gain smoother, slower tuning. If that isn't your operating style, pick
the option that is.

It is a very simple matter to change it later if you don't like it, so pick
one based on what YOU are looking for, try it for awhile, then try the other
if you are not satisfied. It's just not a big deal.

There is no decision time with Elecraft products as long as you plan on
keeping your soldering iron.

Eric
KE6US 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Dietrich
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 7:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Tuning Range Quandary

Good Evening All K1-4 Owners,

Construction of the K1 itself starts tomorrow evening after work!  When I
got my K1, I opted for the 4-band radio as primary, and I purchased the
two-band module extra.  For my four-band I chose:
40-30-20-15.  I have 80  17 for the two band module.

It is starting to become decision time for me, and I am in a quandary.  Do I
choose 80 or 150 KHz as my tuning range?  I know the manual says that if you
are building a four-band radio (Which I am), you should choose the 80 KHz
tuning range.  However, I am wondering how much coverage/bandwidth I am
losing/missing out on if I do choose 80 KHz.  With the 10-turn
potentiometer, it means approximately 8 or 15 Khz per revolution of the
knob.

I'd like to poll all K1 owners out there and see WHAT you chose and, more
importantly, WHY.  I'd also like to know HOW you feel about the decision
since you have had a chance to use your rig.  If Eric or Wayne is reading
this post, I'd really like to hear your thoughts as well.  The last thing I
want to do is go back in and change the bandwidth once it is built.  Those
thru-hole connections are tough to desolder!

I thank you all in advance for your input.

73,

David A. Dietrich
KC9EHQ

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[Elecraft] Re: K1 Tuning Range Quandary

2005-06-29 Thread wayne burdick


On Jun 29, 2005, at 7:54 PM, David Dietrich wrote:



It is starting to become decision time for me, and I am in a quandary. 
 Do I choose 80 or 150 KHz

as my tuning range?


David,

I can't speak for others, but I can explain the reasoning I used when I 
wrote the manual. First, 99% of CW activity occurs in the first 80 kHz 
of all bands covered by the K1. Second, covering a smaller range 
results in finer tuning resolution.


When we first designed the K1 there was a reasonable amount of activity 
from 7100-7150 and 21100-21150. This is the main reason we offered a 
wider tuning-range option. Activity in these segments is now fairly 
sparse, with the exception of some gatherings near 7145 that I've heard 
about, so for the average builder I'd recommend 80 kHz.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Tuning Range Quandary

2005-06-29 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ

David,

Go with 80 kHz. I went with 150 and I think I am going to change it.  
150 Khz makes tuning just a bit skittish.  I can live with it; but when 
I have some time, I think I am going to change it.


73 de Larry W2LJ

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RE: [Elecraft] K1: RF gain and RIT controls

2005-06-29 Thread EricJ
I soldered a 10K resistor across the RIT pot and magically cut the range in
half. It was easier than dealing with C7 on the rf board. I find RIT=Off a
satisfactory center detent.

Per your request, I'll spare you my comments on the gain control as the K1
doesn't need one.

Eric
KE6US 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 7:51 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1: RF gain and RIT controls

I'm finally going to open the box I've had for 2 years and build a K1 so
I'll have a rig for the Australian outback next month! Before I start, a
couple of
questions:

1. Has anyone come up with a good RF gain control, aka AGC threshold
control? 
Please, no lectures about how the K1 doesn't need it, or how the RF
attenuator works great. 

2. In searching the archives, I found hundreds of posts about the RIT range.

Too many to sort through. Is the mod in the manual the best and simplist for
reducing the RIT range, or was there a definitive posting of a better one? 
While I'm at it, is there a drop-in replacement for the RIT control that has
a center detent?

Thanks!
-Bruce AA5B
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