Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread Stewart Baker
OK, maybe the bet was a bit one sided, as most SM PSU's are made
in China and THEY produce EMI not the analogue ones.

How can the purchaser be responsible? They don't design and
manufacture the item !

EMC rules on these PSU's are very clear. If however, the
manufacturer chooses to omit vital EMI suppression components
because of commercial imperative, then they are breaking the law.
Quality control does not enter into the equation, neither does
marketing.

The government organisations, who originally demanded that test
methods and limits were put in place as part of the overall CE
scheme, and now do nothing to enforce the law are equally to
blame.

Stewart G3RXQ


On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:16:19 +, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Stewart Baker wrote:
 By any chance was the UPS manufactured in China ?

 That's not a very fair bet; almost every bit of consumer
electronics is
 manufactured in China or has most of its components manufactured
there.

 However, if the suggestion is the responsibility for poor EMC
lies in
 China, that's not true.  A lot of the responsibility comes down
to the
 purchasers, who want minimum prices and do not care about
features that
 only benefit non-purchasers.  Beyond that are the marketing
 organisations that wouldn't know what EMC measurements actually
mean,
 and the corporate management that only knows how to manipulate
the stock
 market.

 If you buy something from a UK/US marketing organisation, and it
is of
 poor quality, they cannot blame their tools, by saying it was
the
 suppliers fault; they should have chosen better suppliers, or
paid
 people with appropriate technical knowledge, to do quality
control.

 Governments also have a responsibility.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard
Actually the purchaser does have the ability to decide on the importance
of the EMI signature.  Many of the laptop products only have to stand up
to the A standard.  Where as some companies have tougher requirements
and require things to stand up to a higher standard.  

I work for a company that designs bar code scanners.  My company is the
ONLY organization of them all in the production of large fixed
installation scanners that requires our products to pass the B standards
rather than class A.  (Essentially the class B standards require that
you are about 10dB below the class A standards).  Not to mention the
fact that we require that we pass with at least 3dB of margin so
technically we require our products to be 13dB better than we really
have to be.  

Not to mention the rest of the testing that we do on our products.  In
the large supermarket fixed installation scanners we actually slam a 30
pound bag of lead shot directly onto the scanner from 2 feet.  We call
this the Turkey Drop test.  We also hit the products with 25,000 volts
ESD discharges and require that this causes zero failures while the
industry standard is 15KV. 

Anyway the point of the whole thing is that we are the manufacturer and
designers of the scanner.  We purchase power supplies from Chinese
manufacturers and we as the purchaser mandate the requirements of the
supply.  If we did not there would be no way that we could stand up to
our own standards.  Honestly I've personally not run much in the way of
testing on the laptop power supplies but I do know that we run switchers
to power our products.  Mainly because we need to be able to support the
use of our product worldwide but also because California is now
outlawing the use of unregulated transformer based linear supplies in
new products.  Maybe next time I'm at the lab if I have some free time
I'll run some tests on my dell power supply.  Honestly I have used my
laptop as a host before and have found that with only some very minor
mods my Latitude D610 can be made to pass class B.  I only had to add a
few pf's of capacitance here and there and it works great.  But that
doesn't mean that I don't still slap ferrites on all of the cables to
and from our product that I'm allowed! :)  We'll see if I end up with
some free time... Although at $350 an our for lab time you tend to get
very good use of the time! ;)


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[Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread G4ILO

I run QRP out of practical necessity. I'm forced to use attic antennas and I
don't wish to induce more RF into the domestic electrical equipment (or me,
for that matter) than I absolutely have to.

Nevertheless, I'm thinking about getting a KPA3, because it probably will
never be cheaper than it is now, and the occasion might arise in future when
I might be able to use it.

I'm just wondering if there are any advantages to using the PA when running
QRP. As I understand it, the PA is switched out of circuit until you dial
the power above 10W, just as in the K2. There is no option for class A
operation at a lower power level to produce a cleaner signal. If I run 10W
of FM, the QRP PA will do all the work, and warm up very quickly, instead of
letting the KPA3 do most of the work and barely getting warm. If I run 5W of
PSK31, the IMD generated by the low power PA running at half its rated power
will be higher than the KPA3 loafing along at the same power level.

Unless I'm missing something, there would be no benefit to me at the moment
from having the KPA3 unless I want to wind the power control above 10W. Am I
right?

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread G4ILO



VR2BrettGraham wrote:
 
 G3RXQ asked F4FNT about the Dell OEM UPS (probably
 meaning power supply) for his laptop that made noise 
 G4ILO then added:
 
Actually it was Stewart G3RXQ who asked if the PSU was made in China.

I don't have anything against products made in China. Just about everything
you buy here in the UK is made in China. Nothing is manufactured here any
more. Nobody wants to be an engineer, or do any other job that might involve
getting their hands dirty (then they complain about all the immigrants who
come here to do the jobs they won't do.)

Only on Friday I bought a Revo Pico WiFi Internet radio. On the front of the
box it says Proudly Designed in the United Kingdom. On the back it says
Made in China. It is a very high quality product and creates no RFI at
all.

China today will make anything you want. If you want high quality they will
make it to your specification, and do it cheaper too. I'm sure they could
make K3s to the same specification as Elecraft if Eric wanted them to.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard
From my understanding of it the radio has the KPA3 switched out of the
loop until you cross the 12W mark.  Then it starts actually putting it
into the signal path.  Until you crank the power up beyond 12Watts the
KPA3 is nothing more than an added current drain.  But if you turn
things up to 12 or 13 watts you're probably still quite fine with those
levels for RFIing yourself and the rest of the house / neighborhood and
your KPA3 will have TONS of headroom for you in that configuration.  Yet
as far as the low power amp its still probably still rated at the same
100% duty cycle at full power for 10 minutes.  I say probably because
the only technical spec listed is that it will handle 100 watts for 10
minutes easily on the web site and in the manual.  I'd imagine that
similar margins are used on both PA's being that both are designed to
have a 20% overhead which is more than you get from Yaecomwood out of
the gate!  

One big advantage is that getting the KPA3 now is a smart investment as
it is probably only going to go up in price and you have a great
advantage with the current exchange rate as it is.  Not to mention that
if you were ever to want to sell your K3 the fact that a KPA3 is already
installed makes it much more attractive to many more people.  My motto
has always been its better to have than to want. ;)


On Mon, 2008-03-17 at 02:55 -0700, G4ILO wrote:
 I run QRP out of practical necessity. I'm forced to use attic antennas and I
 don't wish to induce more RF into the domestic electrical equipment (or me,
 for that matter) than I absolutely have to.
 
 Nevertheless, I'm thinking about getting a KPA3, because it probably will
 never be cheaper than it is now, and the occasion might arise in future when
 I might be able to use it.
 
 I'm just wondering if there are any advantages to using the PA when running
 QRP. As I understand it, the PA is switched out of circuit until you dial
 the power above 10W, just as in the K2. There is no option for class A
 operation at a lower power level to produce a cleaner signal. If I run 10W
 of FM, the QRP PA will do all the work, and warm up very quickly, instead of
 letting the KPA3 do most of the work and barely getting warm. If I run 5W of
 PSK31, the IMD generated by the low power PA running at half its rated power
 will be higher than the KPA3 loafing along at the same power level.
 
 Unless I'm missing something, there would be no benefit to me at the moment
 from having the KPA3 unless I want to wind the power control above 10W. Am I
 right?
 
 -
 Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
 G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
 Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread Bill W4ZV



G4ILO wrote:
 
 
 I'm just wondering if there are any advantages to using the PA when
 running QRP. As I understand it, the PA is switched out of circuit until
 you dial the power above 10W, just as in the K2. 
 
 The switch point in the KPA3 is actually 13W.  For 12 and less
 it'is switched out.
 
 Unless I'm missing something, there would be no benefit to me at the
 moment from having the KPA3 unless I want to wind the power control above
 10W. Am I right? 
 
 Nothing I'm aware of.
 
 

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Re: RE[Elecraft] V Button - Rig Comfort

2008-03-17 Thread GW0ETF

I wonder if there is a good reason why the REV function couldn't be allocated
to one of the ACC pins and operated by a foot switch.?

For those ofcourse that don't want to use a foot switch for PTT and/or
haven't got the second RX on order...(like me)

Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF


Lee Buller wrote:
 
 
 
 I am all for making changes to buttons to make things easier, but I wonder
 if some are jumping the gun a little to fast here.  This is a NEW radio
 and it takes time for an operator to get use to it.  Change is good, but
 change to make the rig similar to other rigs might not be the answer.
 
 I found for one that I did not have any trouble working Clipperton on
 split more using the REV key.  Hold the button and tune the knob with my
 thumb.  (What got me about Clipperton was some of the ops - editorial
 comment)  I got use to doing it, so I am in the process of retraining
 myself from the previous rig.
 
 That is the keyretraining my brain for the K3.  The K3 is not an Omni
 VI+, or a 930 or a 940 or a 850 or a 756PROxx...it is a K3.  It is unique
 (or different) and it has been planned by a group of excellent engineers
 and operators.
 
 I for one am learning to appreciate the planning, engineering and
 development of the unit.
 
 Lee - K0WA
 
 
 
 
 
 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you
 don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you
 can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some
 Common Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard
It makes no RFI at all that bothers you in your situation.  The only
product that produces no RFI at all is the pet rock.  Its all just a
matter of degree.


On Mon, 2008-03-17 at 02:37 -0700, G4ILO wrote:
 It is a very high quality product and creates no RFI at
 all.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: my assembly pictures

2008-03-17 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I don't remember seeing the pint of beer in the assembly manual or the  
inventory - looks like Lisa missed packing that in my K3 :-(


73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
He who asks is a fool for five minutes, but he who does not ask  
remains a fool forever. -Chinese proverb


On 17 Mar 2008, at 04:01, Wim Dewilder wrote:


Here's an attempt to post a link to my K3 assembly pictures

 URL:http://www.dewilder.com/public/k3/index.html 

enjoy
- Wim


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Re: RE[Elecraft] V Button - Rig Comfort

2008-03-17 Thread Bill W4ZV



GW0ETF wrote:
 
 I wonder if there is a good reason why the REV function couldn't be
 allocated to one of the ACC pins and operated by a foot switch.?
 
 For those ofcourse that don't want to use a foot switch for PTT and/or
 haven't got the second RX on order...(like me)
 

Good idea!  I know some did that with the TF-SET on the TS-930S.  It might
even be possible to hack this yourself if Elecraft didn't want to do it.  

Before giving up on using REV as is, try depressing REV with you left index
finger and place your leftmost finger(s) on the top of the big VFO knob.  It
helps if the knob is set to spin freely.  I've been doing this since 1984 so
it seems very natural to me.  I also LOCK VFO A (on the DX frequency) so any
momentum from the knob still moving is not transferred from VFO B to VFO A
as REV is released.  I believe this was a relatively recent firmware change
and I'm not sure it was ever documented.  There can still be a 10 Hz shift
in VFO A if you intentionally release REV while the knob is rapidly spinning
but you must really try to induce that (i.e. not a real issue IMHO).

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6425 low/no sensitivity - suggestions?

2008-03-17 Thread David Woolley (E.L)

TF3KX wrote:


the IF chain.  An interesting thing is that I hear this signal much weaker
in the K2 audio when I touch it to the INPUT of IF-amp U12 (MC1350) than to
its OUTPUT.  In other words, that IF amp does not amplify, but rather
attenuate the injected signal.  I have re-checked all connections around


That suggests an AGC problem.

I wonder if the AGC mixer is out of balance and you are getting a lot of 
its local oscillator getting into the AGC chain?


I also wonder if this problem relates to two recent reports of people
being unable to find the 7MHz birdie.


U12, re-flowed the solder, checked T7 and removed the overload diodes D40
and D41 - with no improvement.

Problem 2:  Low 8V regulator output, 7.56V.  As a result I could only adjust
the U2 pin 5 voltage to 3.60V using R1, in Alignment I.  Probing the


There have been a lot of reports of out of spec 8V regulators recently; 
it looks like they've received a bad batch and need to take some quality 
control action.  (Note that the U2 pin5 voltage does not allow for 
component tolerances, so a low value is not necessarily a problem.)


A low U2 pin 5 voltage, on its own, would actually increase the gain. 
On the other hand, they are not operating the IF amplifier at the supply 
voltage given in the data sheet and it may be that reducing supply 
voltage has the opposite affect on the AGC.




voltages derived from the 8V supply, they are of course 5-10% lower than
expected.  All DC voltages on U12 are consequently a little low, but
otherwise not abnormal.

I plan to get a local replacement for the 8V regulator, just in case.  But
does anyone have comments on the low sensitivity?  Would the low 8V level be
a possible cause for this?


As it is out of specification (7.6V), I believe Elecraft will replace 
it under warranty, and doing so will get it formally recorded as a 
quality failure.


--
David Woolley
The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread WILLIS COOKE
You can't float the laptop power supply.  The neutral
pin of the plug is connected to the supply ground
point as well as the ground pin.  There is no ground
point on a plastic lap top for the station ground. 
The only way to float the computer is to unplug the
charger, which did work, but only until the battery
needs to be charged.  The better solution is to plug
the laptop into the same circuit as the radios.  Most
people do not have a choice like I do because houses
are usually wired room by room.  I don't understand
why this simple caveat is generating so many
arguments.  It is simple, worked for me and doesn't
apply to most people.

Cookie, K5EWJ

--- Brett Howard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Or you could just easily float the laptop then you'd
 only have one
 chassis ground.
 
 
 On Sun, 2008-03-16 at 19:36 -0700, WILLIS COOKE
 wrote:
 
  Well I didn't plug it into my K3 with the
 transformer
  isolation because my K3 is in its gestation period
 and
  I am waiting for delivery.  But, I don't think
 that it
  would have avoided the problem.  I was using
  transformer isolation with a Rascal Interface. 
 The
  hum came through the push to talk ground circuit. 
 One
  of my friends had to replace the transistor PTT
  interface with an Opto Isolator to eliminate his
  ground loop problem.  I have a separate power feed
 for
  my radio equipment that comes from a box at my
 meter
  loop and quite different ground length from the
 house
  wiring.  You need your computer fed from the same
  power source as the radio equipment even if you
 have a
  K3.
  
  --- Brett Howard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   This is why we transformer isolate our audio. 
   If/when you get a K3
   you'll have this feature built right into the
 rig. 
   For me I just built
   a cable for the PSK/RTTY and what not and put
   transformers in a box in
   the middle of the cable.
   
   
   On Sun, 2008-03-16 at 05:57 -0700, WILLIS COOKE
   wrote:
   
I don't know if it applies to your situation
 or
   not
Raymond, but I had a lot of hum on when I
   connected my
110V Lap top to my TS-850 for PSK-31.  I had
 the
charger plugged into a house circuit and my
 radio
equipment plugged into a separate circuit for
 the
radio station.  When I moved the charger plug
 to
   the
radio circuit the hum went away.

--- Raymond METZGER [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   wrote:

 Hi Elecrafters,
 
  
 
 I am interested to know what solution can be
   used to
 avoid the noise
 generated by the 220 V AC (OEM) UPS of my
 recent
 Dell Latitude Laptop.
 
 For the time being, I can only use the
 laptop
   with
 my K2/100 if the laptop
 is powered by its internal battery.
 
  
 
 Raymond METZGER
 
 F4FNT
 
 K2 5,636 - K3 expected at month end (ordered
 8
 September, Katiegram
 received last Friday)
 

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Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
   
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  Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
  K5EWJ
 


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
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[Elecraft] K2 - Initial Alignment Test Part 1 - Issues - Resolved

2008-03-17 Thread John Hoaglun

Thanks to: Michael - DC0ZO  AL - WA6VNN

Switch off, then press and hold the keys 4,5,6 and switch on. This will 
reset your K2 (see Manual page 102)


That resolved my issue. I only had a few minutes before work this 
morning to test it... but things are looking good now. I will try to 
finish the initial alignment tonight after work.


73

--

John Hoaglun
NG0R - EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com


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[Elecraft] #0,#1 Screwdriver source

2008-03-17 Thread K3KO

For those with old worn out phillips tip screwdrivers

http://store.richspsxparts.com/0phsctoopps2.html

$6 for set, shipping included.

These are not jeweler's sized but rather hand sized screwdrivers.

K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread Vic K2VCO

Brett Howard wrote:


 California is now
outlawing the use of unregulated transformer based linear supplies in
new products.  


Oh, great.

Although as you point out it is possible to make a quiet switcher, it's 
also cheaper to make one that will wipe out everything for a 100-yard 
radius.  Let me tell you about this high-intensity lamp that I 
have...actually, it does have some value; it can be used as a noise 
generator to align the filters in my K2.


Now *every* piece of electrical junk will have one!
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread Dave G.
The only product that produces no RFI at all is the pet rock.
Even rock has a radiation signature..
BTW - If you are worried about radiation, don't do a walking tour of 
Edinburgh, Scotland...  Granite is 'radio' active

--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe.  ... Albert Einstein.

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[Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?

2008-03-17 Thread Norm Klieman
I have a few basic DXCC questions and hope someone on
the list could help me?

If you have lived in multiple locations does that
matter?

If you have had multiple calls how does that work?

How far back can you go for old QSL cards?
Can I go back to the early 1970's as a Novice?

Thanks for the help!

73's -- Norm  K9NK

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Julian
There is one drawback, however.
Increased current drain, even though the KPA3
is not in use at QRP levels.  If this isn't a
problem for you, then go right ahead.
However, if you want to take your K3 out to
the field for a Field Day operation, that
extra drain can create battery problems.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: G4ILO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 1:55 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP



 I run QRP out of practical necessity. I'm forced to use attic
antennas and I
 don't wish to induce more RF into the domestic electrical equipment
(or me,
 for that matter) than I absolutely have to.

 Nevertheless, I'm thinking about getting a KPA3, because it probably
will
 never be cheaper than it is now, and the occasion might arise in
future when
 I might be able to use it.

 I'm just wondering if there are any advantages to using the PA when
running
 QRP. As I understand it, the PA is switched out of circuit until you
dial
 the power above 10W, just as in the K2. There is no option for class
A
 operation at a lower power level to produce a cleaner signal. If I
run 10W
 of FM, the QRP PA will do all the work, and warm up very quickly,
instead of
 letting the KPA3 do most of the work and barely getting warm. If I
run 5W of
 PSK31, the IMD generated by the low power PA running at half its
rated power
 will be higher than the KPA3 loafing along at the same power level.

 Unless I'm missing something, there would be no benefit to me at the
moment
 from having the KPA3 unless I want to wind the power control above
10W. Am I
 right?

 -
 Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
 G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
 Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
 --
 View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/KPA3-for-QRP-tp16091280p16091280.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?

2008-03-17 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Norm
Living in multiple locations does not seem to be
a problem, as long as they were all within the same
DXCC entity, in our case, the continental US.

I think you have a choice of what call you apply
for your DXCC under.  I worked mine as W0KMF
when I lived in Iowa, but have N6WG now.
When I finally get around to applying, I'll probably
ask for the W0KMF call on the certificate.  If they
only want to grant to your current call, that's fine
too.

Reaching way back will probably cause you to have
to send your cards to ARRL for checking.  By now,
some of the countries I have cards for no longer
exist :-)

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Norm Klieman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 6:50 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?


 I have a few basic DXCC questions and hope someone on
 the list could help me?
 
 If you have lived in multiple locations does that
 matter?
 
 If you have had multiple calls how does that work?
 
 How far back can you go for old QSL cards?
 Can I go back to the early 1970's as a Novice?
 
 Thanks for the help!
 
 73's -- Norm  K9NK
 
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RE: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?

2008-03-17 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Hi, Norm!

First, here is the URL for the DXCC rules on the ARRL web site:

http://www.arrl.org/awards/dxcc/rules.html

For DXCC, if your multiple locations are within the same DXCC entity, it
doesn't matter.  You can move from California to New York and you're in the
same DXCC entity, so all your QSOs from the continental United States (the
lower 48) count for one DXCC award.

QSOs you make from Puerto Rico or Hawaii count toward a DXCC award from that
DXCC entity. For example, I have DXCC from England (where I lived for 4
years) and a separate DXCC for the United States.

However you can't combine QSOs made from California and Hawaii and Alaska
into one DXCC award.

If you used multiple calls, you just tell the DXCC desk in your application
what your calls were.  They have access to the historic callsign databases
if there's any question. Some of my England DXCC QSOs were made as G0/AA6MC,
some were made with my England call of G0MFO, they're all one DXCC.  I just
told them the dates and calls and sent the cards.

The DXCC program goes back to about 1945.  Your 1970's Novice QSOs
definitely count for the Mixed award.  However DXCC CW started in 1975, so
CW contacts prior to that date won't count toward your CW DXCC.

Some DXCC entities have changed over the years, so your card from East
Germany or Czechoslovakia in the 1980's might count for a deleted country
now.



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Norm Klieman
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 7:51 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?

I have a few basic DXCC questions and hope someone on
the list could help me?

If you have lived in multiple locations does that
matter?

If you have had multiple calls how does that work?

How far back can you go for old QSL cards?
Can I go back to the early 1970's as a Novice?

Thanks for the help!

73's -- Norm  K9NK

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Re: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?

2008-03-17 Thread WILLIS COOKE
The countries that no longer exist do not count for
DXCC.  They will credit you, but count only current
countries toward the official count, I think.  I am
not totally sure about for the initial 100, but I am
certain about when you start working for the Honor
Roll.

I have been DXing for 52 years and I only have 7
deleted countries out of 316, so it is not too big of
a deal.

Cookie, K5EWJ

--- Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Norm
 Living in multiple locations does not seem to be
 a problem, as long as they were all within the same
 DXCC entity, in our case, the continental US.
 
 I think you have a choice of what call you apply
 for your DXCC under.  I worked mine as W0KMF
 when I lived in Iowa, but have N6WG now.
 When I finally get around to applying, I'll probably
 ask for the W0KMF call on the certificate.  If they
 only want to grant to your current call, that's fine
 too.
 
 Reaching way back will probably cause you to have
 to send your cards to ARRL for checking.  By now,
 some of the countries I have cards for no longer
 exist :-)
 
 Good luck and 73
 Bob N6WG
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Norm Klieman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 6:50 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?
 
 
  I have a few basic DXCC questions and hope someone
 on
  the list could help me?
  
  If you have lived in multiple locations does that
  matter?
  
  If you have had multiple calls how does that work?
  
  How far back can you go for old QSL cards?
  Can I go back to the early 1970's as a Novice?
  
  Thanks for the help!
  
  73's -- Norm  K9NK
  
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Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
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[Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread cx7tt
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at 
least in the kit?

Tnx
Tom
CX7TT
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread WILLIS COOKE
People talk about the extra current drain.  How much
is it?  I don't have my K3 yet to make any tests and I
seldom run QRP (only when the other station wants 2
way QRP), but it would be of interest to us all if
anyone had measured the current draw of the K3 at
receive with and without the KPA3, transmit at 5 watts
without the KPA3 installed and transmit at 5 watts
with the KPA3 installed. I am sure that Elecraft has
the information, but I don' recall seeing it
published.  My guess is that the KPA3 does not require
much if any current when it is switched out.  Anybody
do any tests to know for sure?
 
--- Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Julian
 There is one drawback, however.
 Increased current drain, even though the KPA3
 is not in use at QRP levels.  If this isn't a
 problem for you, then go right ahead.
 However, if you want to take your K3 out to
 the field for a Field Day operation, that
 extra drain can create battery problems.
 
 Good luck and 73
 Bob N6WG
 
 - Original Message -
 From: G4ILO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 1:55 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP
 
 
 
  I run QRP out of practical necessity. I'm forced
 to use attic
 antennas and I
  don't wish to induce more RF into the domestic
 electrical equipment
 (or me,
  for that matter) than I absolutely have to.
 
  Nevertheless, I'm thinking about getting a KPA3,
 because it probably
 will
  never be cheaper than it is now, and the occasion
 might arise in
 future when
  I might be able to use it.
 
  I'm just wondering if there are any advantages to
 using the PA when
 running
  QRP. As I understand it, the PA is switched out of
 circuit until you
 dial
  the power above 10W, just as in the K2. There is
 no option for class
 A
  operation at a lower power level to produce a
 cleaner signal. If I
 run 10W
  of FM, the QRP PA will do all the work, and warm
 up very quickly,
 instead of
  letting the KPA3 do most of the work and barely
 getting warm. If I
 run 5W of
  PSK31, the IMD generated by the low power PA
 running at half its
 rated power
  will be higher than the KPA3 loafing along at the
 same power level.
 
  Unless I'm missing something, there would be no
 benefit to me at the
 moment
  from having the KPA3 unless I want to wind the
 power control above
 10W. Am I
  right?
 
  -
  Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
  G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
  Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
  --
  View this message in context:

http://www.nabble.com/KPA3-for-QRP-tp16091280p16091280.html
  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
 Nabble.com.
 
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Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread dolfindon
Hi
 
The K3 has a PowerPole connector on the back of the radio and includes a kit to 
build up a 5 ft cable to plug into the radio. The power supply end is not 
supplied so you will need to connect the bare wires to your power supply or 
supply your own connector for your power supply. The cable kit includes 5 ft of 
#12 red/black zip cord, a set of red and black PowerPole connectors with 
terminal pins and instructions. The instructions recommend soldering the pins.
 
Don Brown
KD5NDB



 Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 19:37:47 +0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power cable  Does the K3 
 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at  least in the 
 kit? Tnx Tom CX7TT ___ 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Lee Buller
Tom,

You will have to heat up the soldering iron for this one.  They give you the 
connectors and cable...no fuses or fuse holders.  You will have to crimp and 
solder.

Lee
K0WA

 

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?
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[Elecraft] OT - DXCC Questions?

2008-03-17 Thread Ken Kopp

Deleted countries -do- count for DXCC, assuming
one has them confirmed, of course. (:-))

In theory, a relative new-comer to DX'ing can never
reach the same country count as the older participants 
because the older op's have countries credited that the 
new applicants can never work.


73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  DXCC/CW w/310 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Ken Wagner

The connector was *not* installed on the cable in my K3 kit.
73, Ken K3IU

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at 
least in the kit?

Tnx
Tom
CX7TT
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread AD6XY - Mike

Yes Julian - you are right. There is no advantage in having a KPA3 for QRP
working. In fact, there is a bit of a disadvantage as it takes up space in
the case which you might be able to use for something else, like a battery
or a VHF transverter. 

Regarding the price, at $450 + VAT it is not particularly cheap compared to
any other broadband 100W HF amplifier you might buy. Couple it with the KAT3
at $300 you are into the $750 territory and I am sure there are cheaper and
more flexible alternatives. A good example being the K2 100W PA and ATU in
an external case.

If you really want a very clean signal, an external amplifier fed with a few
watts and in class A would be a better bet. You could then use a device like
an MRF151G with a 45V supply and if you wish to home brew check out the CCI
website for amplifier kits. A 200W amplifier running off 28V or 48V will be
very clean at 50W or so in class A.



Mike
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/KPA3-for-QRP-tp16091280p16094199.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Elecraft cover info requests

2008-03-17 Thread Ken Kopp
I still have some concern about blocked e-mails. If 
you have -not- yet received a reply to your request 
for information about my Elecraft covers please let 
me know.  I've responded to all inquiries received.


73! Rose Kopp - N7HKW
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - DXCC Questions?

2008-03-17 Thread WILLIS COOKE
The area where it is a competition is for Honor Roll
and only current countries count for that.  New ops
are on the same footing as the old ops, except for the
accumulated DXCC credits. 

This may also be true for the challenge award. Like
was previously stated, the rules are somewhat complex
and one should read them periodically rather than rely
on second hand information such as this.

--- Ken Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Deleted countries -do- count for DXCC, assuming
 one has them confirmed, of course. (:-))
 
 In theory, a relative new-comer to DX'ing can never
 reach the same country count as the older
 participants 
 because the older op's have countries credited that
 the 
 new applicants can never work.
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
DXCC/CW w/310 
 
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K5EWJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Mike B
Others have given you the answer you were searching for, but I'll just chime in 
to say that during my K3 wait (June till February), I made a cable of 10 ga. 
zip, with an in-line fuse holder and PowerPoles on each end.  I have a West 
Mountain Radio crimper available, so I crimped then soldered each terminal.  The 
Elecraft power cable kit is still in its bag, waiting for another project.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at 
least in the kit?


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread cx7tt

Hey Guys,
Tnx for the quick response...I have no problem with soldering as I did 
build a K2 a few years ago...My just delivered K3 is sitting at a 
friend's house in FL and I will be there this Friday evening. My friend 
does not use power poles so wanted to know if I would be able to set up 
and play with my new 'toy' during the weekend...Hooray...seems that I 
will; leave Monday nite for CX land and so will have it on the air by 
end of week...at least into vertical dipole or such.

Tnx for all the positive comments and c u on the air with #250.
73
Tom
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

You either crimp or Solder - not both
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think

we're not. In either case, the idea is quite staggering.
-Arthur C Clarke, science fiction writer (1917- )

On 17 Mar 2008, at 15:50, Lee Buller wrote:


Tom,

You will have to heat up the soldering iron for this one.  They give  
you the connectors and cable...no fuses or fuse holders.  You will  
have to crimp and solder.


Lee
K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.   
If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use  
it.  If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody  
who has some Common Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?

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Re: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?

2008-03-17 Thread Stephen W. Kercel
For Deleted Countries you get credit for them if you worked them 
when they were valid countries. The DXCC list includes the valid 
dates for each deleted country. The credit applies to your basic 
count for the DXCC award and endorsements. Thus for example if you 
have 98 current countries and two deleted countries worked when they 
were valid that would qualify you for  a DXCC award.


Where Deleted Countries do not count is for the DXCC Honor 
Roll.  To make the Honor Roll, at present you need at least 329 
countries, and Deleted Countries are not counted.


73,

Steve Kercel
AA4AK


At 11:34 AM 3/17/2008, WILLIS COOKE wrote:

The countries that no longer exist do not count for
DXCC.  They will credit you, but count only current
countries toward the official count, I think.  I am
not totally sure about for the initial 100, but I am
certain about when you start working for the Honor
Roll.

I have been DXing for 52 years and I only have 7
deleted countries out of 316, so it is not too big of
a deal.

Cookie, K5EWJ

--- Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Norm
 Living in multiple locations does not seem to be
 a problem, as long as they were all within the same
 DXCC entity, in our case, the continental US.

 I think you have a choice of what call you apply
 for your DXCC under.  I worked mine as W0KMF
 when I lived in Iowa, but have N6WG now.
 When I finally get around to applying, I'll probably
 ask for the W0KMF call on the certificate.  If they
 only want to grant to your current call, that's fine
 too.

 Reaching way back will probably cause you to have
 to send your cards to ARRL for checking.  By now,
 some of the countries I have cards for no longer
 exist :-)

 Good luck and 73
 Bob N6WG

 - Original Message -
 From: Norm Klieman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 6:50 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Simple DXCC Questions?


  I have a few basic DXCC questions and hope someone
 on
  the list could help me?
 
  If you have lived in multiple locations does that
  matter?
 
  If you have had multiple calls how does that work?
 
  How far back can you go for old QSL cards?
  Can I go back to the early 1970's as a Novice?
 
  Thanks for the help!
 
  73's -- Norm  K9NK
 
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Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ
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[Elecraft] Amplifier Vacuum Tubes

2008-03-17 Thread TR, K2/100 S/N 838
One good source might be Ameritron.  They are still selling 811 
amplifiers and they could not do so if they didn't have working tubes 
(new) to put in them.  They probably charge more than RF Parts 
because they have to quality check them.  I hate to point out, anyone 
so ignorant  that they are unaware you can buy new good tubes, may 
also be ignorant of how to tune and operate them.  Don't overlook the 
possibility that the guy who started this thread may be wrong and RF 
Parts may be right.


All my life I've heard guys moan and groan about 811A's dying.  I've 
had the same pair in my little home brew amp for 20 years and I pump 
them hard.  450W PEP on 80 meters, 400W CW.  You just have to know 
how to take care of them.


Having said that, I must admit solid state is the future, and when 
the day comes that I can afford a solid state amp I will buy one.


TR, WB6TMY

From: Brett Gazdzinski
Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifier Vacuum Tubes

I would like to point out that there are loads of good tubes around,
many places have a lot of old US tubes, I use some 100TH tubes made in the
1950's,
and also have a pile of 811a, 812a, 813,s, 4-125, 4-400,etc.
No I dont want to sell any, but there are loads of good tubes around.
Unless overloaded, most tubes seem to keep working for a long time.

I would not get any tubes from China, Russian tubes are sometimes ok,
and the ones from Eastern Europe seem good, but best is old US tubes.

Brett

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Mike B

You either crimp or Solder - not both


While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason why 
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering.  I find it rather odd 
to make such a firm distinction.


If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from work, I'll 
typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  Sometimes, though, I'll get 
picky and do both, such as on lines that will be carrying a fair bit of power.


73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
You are welcome to do both - as long as you don't compromise the  
contact fit inside the housing.


As to whether its worst or even advisable to do both...
I've had people tell me that soldering hardens the point where the  
wire joins the contact and effectively weakens it, because strands can  
break at that point.


I have to say, I would have thought defence contractors would solder  
as well as crimp, if that was considered worthwhile.


FWIW - I havn't soldered any of my crimped APPs.

--
Study without desire spoils the memory, and it retains nothing that it  
takes in.  -- Leonardo da Vinci


On 17 Mar 2008, at 17:33, Mike B wrote:


You either crimp or Solder - not both


While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no  
reason why one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before  
soldering.  I find it rather odd to make such a firm distinction.


If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from  
work, I'll typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.   
Sometimes, though, I'll get picky and do both, such as on lines that  
will be carrying a fair bit of power.


73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Paul Christensen

You either crimp or Solder - not both


I crimp and solder.  But an explanation is in order:

I begin by crimping the PowerPole connector to the stranded wire.  When the 
crimp is complete, I then apply silver bearing solder ONLY to the very tip 
of the stranded wire where it butts up against the connector.  The wire in 
the area of the crimp has NO solder and this is important to ensure that 
wire stresses due to cable movement do not break the wire as if it was a 
solid-conductor.  So, it's the best of two worlds as flexibility at the 
crimp is maintained and I can be sure that long-term resistive loss is 
minimized by the small application of solder.  When using this method, it's 
critical that the stranded wire does not wick the solder up to the crimp 
point and that's another reason why I use silver bearing solder as it 
tendency to flow along the wire is impeded more so than with standard 
lead/tin solder.


Paul, W9AC 


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Ed Muns
 You either crimp or Solder - not both

Why not?  I've done both on all my crimped connections for years.  Crimping
breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
mechanical strength.  Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
the potential for further oxidation (and increased resistance) between the
wire and terminal because they are no longer exposed to the environment.

Now, if one doesn't have the proper crimping tool and risks distorting the
terminal and its fit in the housing or interconnection with its mating
terminal, then only soldering may be best.  Or, if soldering is not
practical for some reason, then crimping is fine.  In that case, some
dielectric grease on the parts before crimping will help minimize future
oxidation and resistance build up.

Most of our radio environments are limited enough so lessen the effects of
oxidation and mechanical rigidity.  But crimping and soldering is so easy to
do, why not quickly provide the added margin?

73,
Ed - W0YK

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier Vacuum Tubes

2008-03-17 Thread WILLIS COOKE

--- TR, K2/100 S/N 838 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 One good source might be Ameritron.  They are still
 selling 811 
 amplifiers and they could not do so if they didn't
 have working tubes 
 (new) to put in them.  They probably charge more
 than RF Parts 
 because they have to quality check them.  I hate to
 point out, anyone 
 so ignorant  that they are unaware you can buy new
 good tubes, may 
 also be ignorant of how to tune and operate them. 
 Don't overlook the 
 possibility that the guy who started this thread may
 be wrong and RF 
 Parts may be right.
 
 All my life I've heard guys moan and groan about
 811A's dying.  I've 
 had the same pair in my little home brew amp for 20
 years and I pump 
 them hard.  450W PEP on 80 meters, 400W CW.  You
 just have to know 
 how to take care of them.
 
 Having said that, I must admit solid state is the
 future, and when 
 the day comes that I can afford a solid state amp I
 will buy one.
 
 TR, WB6TMY
 
 From: Brett Gazdzinski
 Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifier Vacuum Tubes
 
 I would like to point out that there are loads of
 good tubes around,
 many places have a lot of old US tubes, I use some
 100TH tubes made in the
 1950's,
 and also have a pile of 811a, 812a, 813,s, 4-125,
 4-400,etc.
 No I dont want to sell any, but there are loads of
 good tubes around.
 Unless overloaded, most tubes seem to keep working
 for a long time.
 
 I would not get any tubes from China, Russian tubes
 are sometimes ok,
 and the ones from Eastern Europe seem good, but best
 is old US tubes.
 
 Brett
I am the guy who started this thread.  I could have
trashed two sets of tubes, but I don't think so.  I
bought a used Hunter Bandit with 4 572Bs in 1976.  The
previous owner told me that the tubes needed
replacement and included a set of unused but new
Cetron 572Bs which I installed on the Hunter Bandit. 
In 1988 the power transformer in the Bandit died and I
started looking for what to do.  I found the Dentron
Clipperton-L with bad tubes for a reasonable price.  I
pulled the Cetron tubes from the Bandit and installed
them in the Clipperton and used them until last summer
when I decided to buy some new tubes in case the
Cetrons were a bit worse for 30 years of use. I talkes
to RF Parts and asked which of the three types of 572b
they carried would be best for my amplifier.  They
recommended their Taylor Brand over the Svetlana and
the unbranded Chinese tubes so that is what I bought. 
One had a bad filament on installation.  I returned
them to RF Parts and they replaced them with an
accusation that I drove them too hard.  I installed
the replacement set and ran them at 1800 volts for two
weeks to prevent flash over.  The first time I
selected the 2400 Volt position one or more of the
tubes flashed and took out my high voltage fuse.  I
ran them through the CQ WW SSB contest at 1800 volts
to give them more time for the getters to clear the
contaminants.  I started the CQ WW CW with 1800 volts
but before the contest was over the emission on the
tubes was so low that I was down to 400 watts out on
80 and 100 watts out on 10 with 2400 volts on the
plates.

I pulled the Taylor set and replaced them with my 30
plus year old Cetrons and the amplifier is performing
well today.  Now you can speculate that I don't know
how to tune an amplifier after owning the same
amplifier with the same tubes for 30 years if you
like.  You can buy your products from RF Parts if you
like.  I hope that you do, you and RF Parts deserve to
do business with each other.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Brian Alsop

Ed Muns wrote:


You either crimp or Solder - not both
   



Why not?  I've done both on all my crimped connections for years.  Crimping
breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
mechanical strength.  Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
the potential for further oxidation (and increased resistance) between the
wire and terminal because they are no longer exposed to the environment.

Now, if one doesn't have the proper crimping tool and risks distorting the
terminal and its fit in the housing or interconnection with its mating
terminal, then only soldering may be best.  Or, if soldering is not
practical for some reason, then crimping is fine.  In that case, some
dielectric grease on the parts before crimping will help minimize future
oxidation and resistance build up.

Most of our radio environments are limited enough so lessen the effects of
oxidation and mechanical rigidity.  But crimping and soldering is so easy to
do, why not quickly provide the added margin?

73,
Ed - W0YK
 

Crimping is only easy to do if you have the tool and are proficient in 
its use.
Some of us need soldering only advice-like where not to get the solder. 
Power pole connectors are new technology to many of us.  
Given the problems I've had with past crimping tools, the first couple 
crimps with a new tool/connector are bad.  That shoots down the two 
connectors supplied.   So I guess if I had to buy a tool,  I'd also get 
a bunch of spare connectors too.  Not the scenerio I like for a $2K rig.

Not an big deal though.
73 de Brian/K3KO.

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[Elecraft] Elecraft - Full Line Manufacturer

2008-03-17 Thread Lee Buller


Well, now that I have got your attention with the subject line.

The recent threads on amplifiers has been interesting since I am looking at 
adding an additional one to my station.

I know the Elecraft people are very busy with the K3 roll out now, but with the 
advent of power transistors capable of delivering adequate power, I would like 
to suggest that Elecraft look at developing their amplifier again.  Whoa 
nowhold the phone.

I know they are busyand I am willing to waitbut it seems that the day 
of the transistor power amp is here and the players right now are IC, Y, 
Ameritron, and THP.  I am not sure I want to shell out 5500 to 6500 bucks for 
one of these amps that can run SO2Rbut.

Could there be a middle ground where a KW SS amp can come in at an affordable 
price...say below 1500 to 2000 bucks?  Little do I know about cost accounting.  
Just asking questions...and making conversation.

It seems the market is growing for this type of amp.

Lee - K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] KXV3 clarification requested

2008-03-17 Thread Chad WE9V
On Fri, Mar 14, 2008 at 1:53 PM, Dave Hachadorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Maybe I'm missing something here. What about the following
 from the K3 FAQ's:

 If the transverter option is not installed, can the K3 use
 ANT2 as a de facto RX ANT?

 Yes.  If the KXV3 is not installed, you can designate either
 antenna to either receiver.

 So, this will allow me to transmit on a main antenna, and
 receive on a beverage without a subreceiver or KXV3
 installed, right?

 Dave Hachadorian, K6LL

I posed the same question to a couple of current K3 owners and they
said NO.  You need the KXV3 installed to listen to another antenna.
One of them said that the isolation is very poor between ANT1 and
ANT2, therefore you need the KXV3.  It would be nice to have
Elecraft's clarification on this, because the FAQ seems pretty clear
and contrary to what other owners have said.

Chad WE9V
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Re: [Elecraft] KXV3 clarification requested

2008-03-17 Thread Ken K3IU
My understanding is that IF you have the sub-RX installed and have the 
KAT3 installed, you can connect one antenna to ANT1, another antenna to 
ANT2, and select which antenna serves the main RX and which one serves 
the sub-RX. Since there are no sub-RXs in the field, no one has been 
able to do this and any comment about how effective (or ineffective) it 
would be seems premature.


Pages 38, 39 and 40 of the Rev C Owners Manual makes it pretty clear... 
to me, anyway.


73,
Ken K3IU

Chad WE9V wrote:

On Fri, Mar 14, 2008 at 1:53 PM, Dave Hachadorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

Maybe I'm missing something here. What about the following
from the K3 FAQ's:

If the transverter option is not installed, can the K3 use
ANT2 as a de facto RX ANT?

Yes.  If the KXV3 is not installed, you can designate either
antenna to either receiver.

So, this will allow me to transmit on a main antenna, and
receive on a beverage without a subreceiver or KXV3
installed, right?

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL



I posed the same question to a couple of current K3 owners and they
said NO.  You need the KXV3 installed to listen to another antenna.
One of them said that the isolation is very poor between ANT1 and
ANT2, therefore you need the KXV3.  It would be nice to have
Elecraft's clarification on this, because the FAQ seems pretty clear
and contrary to what other owners have said.

Chad WE9V
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Darwin, Keith
OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
on the wire to make the power cable.

Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
power cables?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 (soon) - 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Jeff Kinzli N6GQ
The assembled K3's come with an assembled power cable, you just need
to finish the battery/power supply side.

Jeff

On Mon, Mar 17, 2008 at 12:55 PM, Darwin, Keith
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
  on the wire to make the power cable.

  Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
  power cables?

  - Keith N1AS -
  - K2 5411.ssb.100 -
  - K3 Wave 3 (soon) -

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[Elecraft] No 6M scanning?

2008-03-17 Thread Rowland

Well Simon I use HRD scan facility it works well with my K3!!
73
Rowland


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Re: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread d.cutter

I would far prefer a factory pre-assembled power cable, given the expense of 
the correct crimp tool and I far prefer crimping to soldering to a cable with 
no strain relief.

ps I've probably crimped and soldered 100s of thousands of wires.  But this is 
not a crimp tool in my armoury.

David
G3UNA 

-
Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email
Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread K4IA
Don't over complicate it.  I just used a  plain old wire crimper and solder.

If you want some more strain relief,  put some heat shrink tubing over the 
connector and for about 6 inches up the  wire. Use big tubing at the connector 
and overlap it over smaller tubing up the  wire.  You might have to overlap a 
couple of different sizes to get it to  be snug but it will be very strong.  A 
drop of hot glue on the end of the  power pole would also help.

If you could see the Mickey Mouse job Yaesu  did on the $4000 Quadra control 
cables or the pathetic and wimpy connector  TenTec used for the Orion, you 
wouldn't feel so bad about the power  poles.

k4ia
Buck K3 #101
Fredericksburg, VA  




**It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money  
Finance.  (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf000301)
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft - Full Line Manufacturer

2008-03-17 Thread Bill W5WVO

Lee Buller wrote:


I know they are busyand I am willing to waitbut it seems that
the day of the transistor power amp is here and the players right now
are IC, Y, Ameritron, and THP.


Don't forget TE Systems. IMO the best available solid-state VHF/UHF amps.


Could there be a middle ground where a KW SS amp can come in at an
affordable price...say below 1500 to 2000 bucks?


That's exactly what I'm looking for -- a bare-bones, no-frills solid-state amp 
with built-in PS. Being a VHF guy, I'd love to see full legal limit amps for 
6m and 2m at a reasonable price point.


I agree with you, Lee, I think there is potentially a big market starting to 
come into being for lower-priced solid state amplifiers.


Bill W5WVO


 Little do I know

about cost accounting.  Just asking questions...and making
conversation.

It seems the market is growing for this type of amp.

Lee - K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If
you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.
If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who
has some Common Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] KXV3 clarification requested

2008-03-17 Thread Dave Hachadorian
- Original Message - 
From: Chad WE9V [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Dave Hachadorian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXV3 clarification requested



On Fri, Mar 14, 2008 at 1:53 PM, Dave Hachadorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Maybe I'm missing something here. What about the
following
from the K3 FAQ's:

If the transverter option is not installed, can the K3
use
ANT2 as a de facto RX ANT?

Yes.  If the KXV3 is not installed, you can designate
either
antenna to either receiver.

So, this will allow me to transmit on a main antenna, and
receive on a beverage without a subreceiver or KXV3
installed, right?

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL


I posed the same question to a couple of current K3 owners
and they
said NO.  You need the KXV3 installed to listen to another
antenna.
One of them said that the isolation is very poor between
ANT1 and
ANT2, therefore you need the KXV3.  It would be nice to
have
Elecraft's clarification on this, because the FAQ seems
pretty clear
and contrary to what other owners have said.

Chad WE9V


Hi Chad,

I thought this reply was an authoritative answer:
http://www.nabble.com/Re%3A-KXV3-clarification-requested-p16058211.html

I believe Lyle Johnson is an Elecraft employee.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft - Full Line Manufacturer

2008-03-17 Thread Jerry Keller (K3BZ)
I agree about the market for a bullet-proof solid state legal limit 
amplifier that will work seamlessly with the radio... like the ICOM PW-1 
does now with the Pro-series. My Pro3 and PW-1 are so well matched it's like 
having a KW transceiver.  I suspect Elecraft could do something like that 
with a legal limit amp partner for the K3 in fact, I would predict they 
will. It's the logical thing to do... when the time is right.

73, Jerry K3BZ

- Original Message - 
From: Lee Buller [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:38 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft - Full Line Manufacturer




Well, now that I have got your attention with the subject line.

The recent threads on amplifiers has been interesting since I am looking at 
adding an additional one to my station.


I know the Elecraft people are very busy with the K3 roll out now, but with 
the advent of power transistors capable of delivering adequate power, I 
would like to suggest that Elecraft look at developing their amplifier 
again.  Whoa nowhold the phone.


I know they are busyand I am willing to waitbut it seems that the 
day of the transistor power amp is here and the players right now are IC, Y, 
Ameritron, and THP.  I am not sure I want to shell out 5500 to 6500 bucks 
for one of these amps that can run SO2Rbut.


Could there be a middle ground where a KW SS amp can come in at an 
affordable price...say below 1500 to 2000 bucks?  Little do I know about 
cost accounting.  Just asking questions...and making conversation.


It seems the market is growing for this type of amp.

Lee - K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you 
can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common 
Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft - Full Line Manufacturer

2008-03-17 Thread Vic K2VCO

Lee Buller wrote:


Could there be a middle ground where a KW SS amp can come in at an
affordable price...say below 1500 to 2000 bucks? 


I suspect this is hard to do. Although a SS amplifier itself is simple, 
by the time you get the power supply, the protective circuitry, the 
pretty-much mandatory antenna tuner, etc., the price climbs.


I have another idea. Personally, I don't want (another) KW+ amplifier. 
Too big, too much money, and too much RFI potential (I know, it's not my 
fault, but I still hate those phone calls).


But an extra 6 dB would definitely make a difference in pileups and 
marginal conditions.


What I want to see is a 400-watt KPA400 to *replace* the KPA3 100-watt 
amp in the K3.


It would require beefing up the KAT3 and possibly the heatsink and fans. 
It would be best to run it on 48v or so; that would give better IMD 
performance on SSB and make the current draw more reasonable. Possibly 
Elecraft could also sell a 12/48v power supply. It would also be 
possible to add a class-A mode for SSB for even cleaner signals.


The main thing is that I think this could fit in the existing K3 
package, which would make it *very* appealing.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Griffin PowerMate - Is this on the list?

2008-03-17 Thread jpk5lad
I'm one of the folks on the list of K3 waiters having 
placed my order in early January. I had a question 
and tried to use the archives to search it out but I 
don't find a search option for the archives.

I'm wondering if the question, suggestion, 
recommendation has ever been made to request the 
attachment of the Griffin PowerMate knob to the K3?

http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/powerma
te/

With the recent discussion and request for a desktop 
switching panel for making some of the front panel 
button pushing easier, it seems the Griffin 
PowerMate would be an excellent accessory for 
remote tuning of a VFO frequency. Has this already 
been mentioned? Do others see the benefit and 
addition like this?

I realize that even if it was approved for addition to 
the list, it would not be a particularly high priority 
item. Just knowing that it will eventually be 
implemented would make the wait worthwhile. After 
all, I'm learning patience every day as I wait for my 
own Lisa-gram.

Jim - K5LAD



It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something
stupid to say and then don't say it. -- Sam 
Levenson
===
My Web Page - http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad


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Re: [Elecraft] Griffin PowerMate - Is this on the list?

2008-03-17 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

Works just fine with MacLoggerDX on my iMac :-)

Seriously, thats only going to happen if some form of USB to  
middleware electronics to then send CAT or something, is going to get  
written. Far more likely to find it supported in a Logging program  
that interfaces to the K3 - like er MacLoggerDX (there I said it again).

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Anyone can do any amount of work, provided it isn't the work he is  
supposed

to be doing at that moment. -Robert Benchley

On 17 Mar 2008, at 21:20, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I'm one of the folks on the list of K3 waiters having
placed my order in early January. I had a question
and tried to use the archives to search it out but I
don't find a search option for the archives.

I'm wondering if the question, suggestion,
recommendation has ever been made to request the
attachment of the Griffin PowerMate knob to the K3?

http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/powerma
te/

With the recent discussion and request for a desktop
switching panel for making some of the front panel
button pushing easier, it seems the Griffin
PowerMate would be an excellent accessory for
remote tuning of a VFO frequency. Has this already
been mentioned? Do others see the benefit and
addition like this?

I realize that even if it was approved for addition to
the list, it would not be a particularly high priority
item. Just knowing that it will eventually be
implemented would make the wait worthwhile. After
all, I'm learning patience every day as I wait for my
own Lisa-gram.


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RE: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard
Yea the ones that qualify have to say Efficiency Level IV on it (or
something like that).  Essentially some European group did a study and
stated that if you took the passive load of all the unregulated bricks that
are in Europe it would total up to one power plant or something like that...
I wasn't paying too close of attention as I usually just splat down the same
supply that I used prior unless I can find something cheaper.  In which case
I usually follow the app note and the demo board and all is well...  As for
the brick its just one more requirement that I have to make sure we get
taken care of and that we get the brick labeled properly for all the
regulatory garbage... :)  But yes California heard about this and was like
wow if we get rid of all those passive loads from bricks that are plugged
into products that are turned off we'll save all sorts of money.  That and
the power system in CA already seems a bit fragile at times  Works for
me... Oregon makes quite a bit of money selling power to you guys!! :)

-Original Message-
From: Vic K2VCO [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 7:41 AM
To: Brett Howard
Cc: Elecraft Users
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

Brett Howard wrote:

  California is now
 outlawing the use of unregulated transformer based linear supplies in
 new products.  

Oh, great.

Although as you point out it is possible to make a quiet switcher, it's 
also cheaper to make one that will wipe out everything for a 100-yard 
radius.  Let me tell you about this high-intensity lamp that I 
have...actually, it does have some value; it can be used as a noise 
generator to align the filters in my K2.

Now *every* piece of electrical junk will have one!
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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RE: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard

The only product that produces no RFI at all is the pet rock.
Even rock has a radiation signature..
BTW - If you are worried about radiation, don't do a walking tour of 
Edinburgh, Scotland...  Granite is 'radio' active


Noted! ;)

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[Elecraft] K3 - Split

2008-03-17 Thread Mike Harris
Hi,

Curious to note that when working split the bandmap in Logger32 doesn't 
show the switch to VFO-B.  Pressing the REV button causes the bandmap 
cursor to move but not during keying.  With the K2 you could see your TX 
frequency change when in split.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard
Don't worry about doing both...  It leaves you that much more sure that you
won't lose connection and trust me... The electrons will forgive your soul
for doing both! :)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike B
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 10:34 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

 You either crimp or Solder - not both

While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason
why 
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering.  I find it rather
odd 
to make such a firm distinction.

If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from work,
I'll 
typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  Sometimes, though, I'll
get 
picky and do both, such as on lines that will be carrying a fair bit of
power.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard
 People talk about the extra current drain.  How much is it?

If you go by what W0CZ measured you get this:

The current tests before I put in the KPA3.
Receive 0.94 to 1.1 A
TX (NO POWER) 1.56 A
TX 5W 2.56 A
TX 10W 3.07 A
TX 12W 3.23 A

The same test after the KPA3 was installed, Set up and working fine.
Receive 0.94 to 1.1 A
TX (NO POWER 2.16 A
TX 5W 3.10 A
TX 10W 3.62 A
TX 12W 3.78 A


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Re: [Elecraft] KXV3 clarification requested

2008-03-17 Thread Lyle Johnson

I thought this reply was an authoritative answer:
http://www.nabble.com/Re%3A-KXV3-clarification-requested-p16058211.html

I believe Lyle Johnson is an Elecraft employee.


Yes, but he is fallible.

I just tried it out on my radio and thought that in split mode I could 
have a different antenna selected but on the same band.


I couldn't with the firmware I am running now.

So, the correct answer is at present that you have to hit the antenna 
switch to toggle.  Perhaps a future firmware release will let you set up 
the other antenna for Tx.


Sorry, didn't mean to mislead.

73,

Lyle KK7P


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[Elecraft] Rx Antenna...

2008-03-17 Thread Dave G.
The way I read the manual description and diagrams is:-
If you want to use a separate RX antenna *without* the KAT3 and *without* 
the sub-Rx then you *must* have the KXV3...
Please correct me if I am wrong... this is of great interest to me
--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe.  ... Albert Einstein.

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[Elecraft] KAT2 without balun - which doublet length is better?

2008-03-17 Thread ub5_073_oleg
Hi,

I'm going to use my K2 with KAT2 internal ATU to operate a
doublet from 80m to 10m including WARC bands without a
balun. Among others, Dave's W8FGU home page inspired me to
try this.

I hope this is not a problem, especially when battery-fed
during portable operation, as there is [almost] no
HF-connection to the ground (the whole system is 'floating')

Quick modelling of 2x20m + 13.5m feeder antenna shows that
KAT2 should be able to do the job, as its 20uH and 2400pF
are enough on all bands.

My question is: can/should I make it easier for KAT2, e.g.
choosing other antenna or feeder lentgh or maybe
adding/removing a piece of feeder on some bands? Are there
some proven length to use? 

73  Oleg


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

2008-03-17 Thread Ralph Tyrrell
post from the past  ref K3 current draw.

Fri, 22 Feb 2008 21:53:25 -0600
From:   Kenneth A. Christiansen [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Add
Mobile Alert 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject:[Elecraft] K3 NR 457 now working in Fargo ND


I got a pleasant surprise yesterday when K3 457
arrived. It was ordered
 
June 13 and I got my Lisa Gram last week end.
It has KAT3, KBPF3, KXV3, 500 hz filter, 2700 hz
filter, 6000 hz filter
 
and the FM filter on back order.

I made a special test on it because I wanted to know
how the KPA3 
changes the current draw.  I know others have asked
the same question here and never did get an answer so
here it is. .

The current tests before I put in the KPA3.
Receive 0.94 to 1.1 A
TX (NO POWER) 1.56 A
TX 5W 2.56 A
TX 10W 3.07 A
TX 12W 3.23 A

The same test after the KPA3 was installed, Set up and
working fine.
Receive 0.94 to 1.1 A
TX (NO POWER 2.16 A
TX 5W 3.10 A
TX 10W 3.62 A
TX 12W 3.78 A

All the above testes were done with a digital meter on
the 10 amp
 scale.
I would say the KPA3 adds a constant 0.6 Amp for any
given power level 
below 12.1 Watts.

I started the inventory last night about 6:00 PM and
finished it
 tonight 
about 8 PM. I had a fire run, slept, went to a meeting
etc.
so my build time must have been about the magic 10
hours.
I sure do like the receiver but have just scratched
the surface of what
 
it can do.
It was worth the wait.
73
Ken W0CZ
-

Hope this helps.

73, Ty, W1TF, K1 #1423 waiting for a K3

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Re: [Elecraft] Rx Antenna...

2008-03-17 Thread Ken Wagner

That's the way I see it.
73, Ken K3IU

Dave G. wrote:

The way I read the manual description and diagrams is:-
If you want to use a separate RX antenna *without* the KAT3 and *without* 
the sub-Rx then you *must* have the KXV3...

Please correct me if I am wrong... this is of great interest to me
--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe.  ... Albert Einstein.

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net - Monday night March 17

2008-03-17 Thread Roger Stein
Greetings fellow Elecrafters and Elecrafters-to-be! 

I will take another turn at the mic this evening on 40m. 

The frequency: 7.190 +/-  
The time:  6:00 PM PDT, 9:00 PM EDT, and 0100 UTC. 

Hope to hear you on the frequency! 

73, Roger 
WA7BOC 
K3 #75 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft - Full Line Manufacturer

2008-03-17 Thread Richard Thorne

I agree with Vic:

An amp capable of 300 to 400 watts, 160m through 6m, would be nice.  
I've been running my current station with a 200 watt rig with great 
success. I have a K3 on order and I'm looking at amplifiers to go with 
it.  Solid state is a must for auto band switching.


Tokyo High Power has come out with a new one, 300 to 400 watts and 
requires 35 amps at 13.8v.  Unfortunately it doesn't cover 160 or 6.  A 
matching Elecraft would be preferred.


Rich - N5ZC

Vic K2VCO wrote:

Lee Buller wrote:


Could there be a middle ground where a KW SS amp can come in at an
affordable price...say below 1500 to 2000 bucks? 


I suspect this is hard to do. Although a SS amplifier itself is 
simple, by the time you get the power supply, the protective 
circuitry, the pretty-much mandatory antenna tuner, etc., the price 
climbs.


I have another idea. Personally, I don't want (another) KW+ amplifier. 
Too big, too much money, and too much RFI potential (I know, it's not 
my fault, but I still hate those phone calls).


But an extra 6 dB would definitely make a difference in pileups and 
marginal conditions.


What I want to see is a 400-watt KPA400 to *replace* the KPA3 
100-watt amp in the K3.


It would require beefing up the KAT3 and possibly the heatsink and 
fans. It would be best to run it on 48v or so; that would give better 
IMD performance on SSB and make the current draw more reasonable. 
Possibly Elecraft could also sell a 12/48v power supply. It would also 
be possible to add a class-A mode for SSB for even cleaner signals.


The main thing is that I think this could fit in the existing K3 
package, which would make it *very* appealing.

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[Elecraft] Rx Antenna...

2008-03-17 Thread Barry N1EU
KK7SS asked: The way I read the manual description and diagrams is:-
If you want to use a separate RX antenna *without* the KAT3 and *without*
the sub-Rx then you *must* have the KXV3...
Please correct me if I am wrong... this is of great interest to me

If you want to use a separate RX antenna with the main receiver, you
need the KXV3.  It doesn't matter whether or not the KAT3 is
installed.

73,
Barry N1EU
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[Elecraft] VP6DX Ducie Island K3 Configuration

2008-03-17 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
A number of people have asked how the VP6DX K3s were configured. Here is the 
summary of options used on each of their K3s.


K3/100 +
KAT3 antenna tuner
KXV3 second receive antenna option.

KFL3A-250 250 Hz,   8-pole roofing filter
KFL3A-400 400 Hz,   8-pole roofing filter
KFL3A-1.0K 1 kHz,   8-pole roofing filter
KFL3A-1.8K 1.8 kHz, 8-pole roofing filter
KFL3A-2.8K 2.8 kHz, 8-pole roofing filter

73, Eric  WA6HHQ

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[Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2

2008-03-17 Thread Jim K4ZMV

After replacing the phone jack on my K2, I have been searching for a really
good external speaker.  One that allows me to use my headphones and mute the
speaker when doing so.  Well, I had an old Kenwood SP-180 speaker that I had
replaced a bad speaker in with a 4 ohm speaker designed for Collins.  This
particular equipment has audio filters and accepts a 1/4 inch stereo
headphone jack.  I cleaned it up and it has been in line now for over an
hour.  The audio filters really help with CW in QRN and smooth out really
strong signals that otherwise had a harsh note as they were tuned across. 
P49V is on 40 meters and is about 40 over S9 and is smooth as silk.  The 1/4
inch headphone jack will help, too, as that is what is on the K3 I have
ordered (due in early July).

I just wanted to pass this along as one can find the old Kenwood speakers
for nearly nothing online or at hamfests and they will help K2 audio.

73,  Jim, K4ZMV
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Excellent-External-Speaker-for-K2-tp16108823p16108823.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] : Laptop UPS [OT Direction]

2008-03-17 Thread Phil Kane

Brett Howard wrote:


But yes California heard about this and was like
wow if we get rid of all those passive loads from bricks that are plugged
into products that are turned off we'll save all sorts of money.  


Can they spell hot standby?  Cold starts are not good for a lot of
electronics, to say nothing about frequency stability.  BTW, I am a
Registered Professional Electrical Engineer with a California (and
Oregon and Nevada and Utah) license, at that.

That and the power system in CA already seems a bit fragile at times  


A contrived situation whose blame can be laid squarely on the games
being played by the two large private utilities - Pacific Gas  Electric
and Southern California Edison.  Surprising how the Los Angeles
Department of Water and Power, a municipally-owned major electric
utility, doesn't have those reliability problems.


Works for me... Oregon makes quite a bit of money selling power to you guys!! :)


Is it Oregon or is it Bonneville Power Administration, a Federal
agency? But is doesn't seem to trickle down.  Both Pacific Power and
Portland General Electric buy significant amounts of cheap hydro power
from BPA but seem to have raised rates nearly double in the decade that
we've been here (or maybe we just use more, what with my comm room on
standby power 24/7... including my K2, of course!  g

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County)  Oregon

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[Elecraft] Another K2 speaker jack failure

2008-03-17 Thread Dave Andrus
I know several others have reported this in recent times, but now it's  
my turn!  My newly-built K2's external speaker jack just decided to  
fail, and while I'm traveling with it to boot!  I have a small  
external speaker that I plugged into it, so I'm still operational, but  
the rig thinks it's still got an external speaker plugged in when I  
unplug it.  Annoying, but not the end of the world.


I know how difficult and exasperating it can be from the designer's  
standpoint to have parts fail like this.  The design is not faulty,  
only the parts source.  Probably not enough spring in the contacts.


I'll probably replace mine with one from my junk box.  Guaranteed to  
be from a different source.


73,

Dave K7DAA
http://www.k7daa.com

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[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint Wednesday night!

2008-03-17 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ
This coming Wednesday evening will be the monthly NAQCC Sprint for March, 2008.

I will refer you to the proper URL:

http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel//sprint200803.html

There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies, this month's 
Special Award, which will be dedcated to those of us who use indoor antennas

This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, 
straight key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate; but you must use QRP 
power levels to compete for awards.

Come join us and have a real good time!

73 de Larry W2LJ
NAQCC #035

__._,_.___

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RE: [Elecraft] KAT2 without balun - which doublet length is better?

2008-03-17 Thread Dave Van Wallaghen
Hi Oleg,

Well, I wish I could take credit for implementing this configuration, but it
was at the urging of Ron, AC7AC and Don, W3FPR who stated that if the
doublet was fairly well balanced, that connecting it directly to the KAT2
should work well and eliminate any losses due to the balun. There was a
pretty good discussion of this about a year ago I think.

The doublet I used was 66' across with about a 33' feeder. I was able to get
a good match 80m - 10m. The only bands I had some trouble tuning were 17m
and 12m. Again, at the suggestion of Ron, I added a 6 foot stub feeder and
got it to tune up pretty well on those bands.

I wish I could tell you that I modeled this setup and designed it to work
properly, but alas I did not. I simply built it up with convenient lengths
and stuck it up in a tree and had a ball with it all summer long. As I learn
more about antennas, I will surely come back and revisit it and try to
figure out why it seemed to work very well for me. 

One thing I did notice toward the end of summer and beginning of fall, is
that I started to have a harder time getting a match on 20m. My guess is
that as time and weather took some toll on the antenna that it became
somewhat unbalanced. It eventually succumbed to a branch knocking down one
leg after a nasty storm here and I took it down for the season. Looking
forward to putting it back up when the weather gets nice here. In fact, I'm
looking to use my K3 out there this summer as well. I just bought a solar
controller from Don Brown, KD5NDB, and may try to run the K3 (and K2) QRP
from a solar power configuration. Sounds like fun anyway.

If I can answer (unscientifically) any more questions, let me know.

Take care  73,
Dave W8FGU

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ub5_073_oleg
 Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 5:22 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 without balun - which doublet length is better?
 
 Hi,
 
 I'm going to use my K2 with KAT2 internal ATU to operate a
 doublet from 80m to 10m including WARC bands without a
 balun. Among others, Dave's W8FGU home page inspired me to
 try this.
 
 I hope this is not a problem, especially when battery-fed
 during portable operation, as there is [almost] no
 HF-connection to the ground (the whole system is 'floating')
 
 Quick modelling of 2x20m + 13.5m feeder antenna shows that
 KAT2 should be able to do the job, as its 20uH and 2400pF
 are enough on all bands.
 
 My question is: can/should I make it easier for KAT2, e.g.
 choosing other antenna or feeder lentgh or maybe
 adding/removing a piece of feeder on some bands? Are there
 some proven length to use?
 
 73  Oleg
 
 
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[Elecraft] Microphone and filter question

2008-03-17 Thread n4lq
I know this sounds lazy but what desk mic. could I order, plug directly into 
a K3 and operate with no wiring changes? Yes, a good one.
Which is better, the 200 hz 5pole or 250 hz 8 pole? Which is best for the 
160m cw test?

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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Re: [Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2

2008-03-17 Thread Gary Krause
Hi Jim,  I'm using a Kenwood  SP-230 speaker with my K2.  It also has 
the audio filters and does a great job with the K2.


Gary, N7HTS
Jim K4ZMV wrote:

After replacing the phone jack on my K2, I have been searching for a really
good external speaker.  One that allows me to use my headphones and mute the
speaker when doing so.  Well, I had an old Kenwood SP-180 speaker that I had
replaced a bad speaker in with a 4 ohm speaker designed for Collins.  This
particular equipment has audio filters and accepts a 1/4 inch stereo
headphone jack.  I cleaned it up and it has been in line now for over an
hour.  The audio filters really help with CW in QRN and smooth out really
strong signals that otherwise had a harsh note as they were tuned across. 
P49V is on 40 meters and is about 40 over S9 and is smooth as silk.  The 1/4

inch headphone jack will help, too, as that is what is on the K3 I have
ordered (due in early July).

I just wanted to pass this along as one can find the old Kenwood speakers
for nearly nothing online or at hamfests and they will help K2 audio.

73,  Jim, K4ZMV
  


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[Elecraft] Amplifier Vacuum Tubes

2008-03-17 Thread Joe Stofko


WB6TMR wrote:
Having said that, I must admit solid state is the future, and when the day
comes that I can afford a solid state amp I will buy one.
 
And therein lies the problem. It is bad enough that decent HF tube
amplifiers are so expensive... but, the available solid state models
are, quite frankly, a joke when it comes to price.  Four, Five.. 
Six thousand dollars or more.. for an amplifier ??   The trouble is, 
I'm not laughing.  At those prices, I'll stick with tube amps... 
until they are just no longer available...  My guess is that solid
state amps will, eventually, become a bit more reasonable in terms
of price. Actually, 5 grand would be better spent on improvements to
an antenna system.

73,
Joe - W1AIU

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Re: [Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2

2008-03-17 Thread DW Holtman

Hello,

I finished my base K2 about a week ago. I installed the Noise blanker and 
SSB modules, with no problems. Next I installed the DSP module. The audio 
quality went to Sh**. I spent two days playing around with filter 
adjustments, DSP settings to no avail. Tonight I plugged in an external 
speaker. Magic!! The distortion is gone, it sounds great. For some reason I 
was using a headset until I put in the DSP module.


The internal speaker on the K2 is so bad, it is almost unusable. Unless the 
one I have is defective. I have been having it sit side by side with my 
TR-7, wondering why I ever bought a K2. Now with a working speaker, I know 
why I bought a K2. It really is a very nice receiver.


Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2


Hi Jim,  I'm using a Kenwood  SP-230 speaker with my K2.  It also has the 
audio filters and does a great job with the K2.


Gary, N7HTS
Jim K4ZMV wrote:
After replacing the phone jack on my K2, I have been searching for a 
really
good external speaker.  One that allows me to use my headphones and mute 
the
speaker when doing so.  Well, I had an old Kenwood SP-180 speaker that I 
had
replaced a bad speaker in with a 4 ohm speaker designed for Collins. 
This

particular equipment has audio filters and accepts a 1/4 inch stereo
headphone jack.  I cleaned it up and it has been in line now for over an
hour.  The audio filters really help with CW in QRN and smooth out really
strong signals that otherwise had a harsh note as they were tuned across. 
P49V is on 40 meters and is about 40 over S9 and is smooth as silk.  The 
1/4

inch headphone jack will help, too, as that is what is on the K3 I have
ordered (due in early July).

I just wanted to pass this along as one can find the old Kenwood speakers
for nearly nothing online or at hamfests and they will help K2 audio.

73,  Jim, K4ZMV



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Re: [Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2

2008-03-17 Thread DW Holtman

Hello,

On Ebay, the Kenwood SP-230 speaker runs from $85.00 to $202.00, looking at 
completed auctions.


Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2


Hi Jim,  I'm using a Kenwood  SP-230 speaker with my K2.  It also has the 
audio filters and does a great job with the K2.


Gary, N7HTS
Jim K4ZMV wrote:
After replacing the phone jack on my K2, I have been searching for a 
really
good external speaker.  One that allows me to use my headphones and mute 
the
speaker when doing so.  Well, I had an old Kenwood SP-180 speaker that I 
had
replaced a bad speaker in with a 4 ohm speaker designed for Collins. 
This

particular equipment has audio filters and accepts a 1/4 inch stereo
headphone jack.  I cleaned it up and it has been in line now for over an
hour.  The audio filters really help with CW in QRN and smooth out really
strong signals that otherwise had a harsh note as they were tuned across. 
P49V is on 40 meters and is about 40 over S9 and is smooth as silk.  The 
1/4

inch headphone jack will help, too, as that is what is on the K3 I have
ordered (due in early July).

I just wanted to pass this along as one can find the old Kenwood speakers
for nearly nothing online or at hamfests and they will help K2 audio.

73,  Jim, K4ZMV



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[Elecraft] K3 Delivery notice

2008-03-17 Thread George Cortez Jr

Delivery notice today for K3/100 ordered on 9-9-2007
shipped 2 day ups so its almost build time!

George NE2I



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[Elecraft] Possible misfeature, K3 RTTY DTF

2008-03-17 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
I find if I turn the RTTY dual-tone filter on when the width is wider
then 400 Hz and then off, the bandwidth doesn't return to what it was
before the use of the DTF, but is left at the narrow bandwidth
appropriate to the DTF.  It seems to me that it'd be correct to revert
to the previous width setting.  

Also, turning on the DTF doesn't switch roofing filters, either.

Am I missing something?

73, doug

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RE: [Elecraft] Possible misfeature, K3 RTTY DTF

2008-03-17 Thread Ed Muns
 I find if I turn the RTTY dual-tone filter on when the width 
 is wider then 400 Hz and then off, the bandwidth doesn't 
 return to what it was before the use of the DTF, but is left 
 at the narrow bandwidth appropriate to the DTF.  It seems to 
 me that it'd be correct to revert to the previous width setting.  
 
 Also, turning on the DTF doesn't switch roofing filters, either.
 
 Am I missing something?

I can duplicate this except the critical bandwidth is 500Hz, not 400Hz.  I
hadn't noticed this previously because I never turn on the DTF with main DSP
bandwidth greater than 400-500Hz.  (I typically operate RTTY with a DSP
bandwidth of 200Hz plus the DTF.)  The DTF forces any DSP bandwidth greater
than 500Hz, back to 500Hz.  In other words 500Hz is the widest DSP bandwidth
available with the DTF.

However, I agree that turning off DTF should return the DSP bandwidth to
what it was before.  I'm sure Wayne will allow this to be added to his
list unless there is some technical reason it can't be changed.  I hope
the priority on this issue is low, though, because the firmware engineers
should be working on more important things.

73,
Ed - W0YK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Delivery notice

2008-03-17 Thread Matt Patterson

WOW!  They are really starting to make headway on the backlog!

73 Matt
W5LL
K2# 4778

George Cortez Jr wrote:

Delivery notice today for K3/100 ordered on 9-9-2007
shipped 2 day ups so its almost build time!

George NE2I



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[Elecraft] re best desk mic for K3

2008-03-17 Thread Fern Rivard
Hi Steve:

I would very much recommend getting a Shure 444D desk microphone for your 
K3. I am using one with excellent transmit audio. It's a very simply job to 
connect the appropriate mic connector to it.
73 from Fern   VE7GZ




- Original Message - 
From: n4lq [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 8:02 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Microphone and filter question


I know this sounds lazy but what desk mic. could I order, plug directly into 
a K3 and operate with no wiring changes? Yes, a good one.
Which is better, the 200 hz 5pole or 250 hz 8 pole? Which is best for the 
160m cw test?
Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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-- 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1331 - Release Date: 3/16/2008 
10:34 AM


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Re: [Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2

2008-03-17 Thread Matt Patterson
I just use a good ol' set of amplified PC speakers.  Works great for 
me... Or maybe I don't realize what I'm missing since it's the only 
thing I've ever used?!?!?!!?


73 Matt
W5LL
K2# 4778

DW Holtman wrote:

Hello,

On Ebay, the Kenwood SP-230 speaker runs from $85.00 to $202.00, 
looking at completed auctions.


Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

- Original Message - From: Gary Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Excellent External Speaker for K2


Hi Jim,  I'm using a Kenwood  SP-230 speaker with my K2.  It also has 
the audio filters and does a great job with the K2.


Gary, N7HTS
Jim K4ZMV wrote:
After replacing the phone jack on my K2, I have been searching for a 
really
good external speaker.  One that allows me to use my headphones and 
mute the
speaker when doing so.  Well, I had an old Kenwood SP-180 speaker 
that I had
replaced a bad speaker in with a 4 ohm speaker designed for Collins. 
This

particular equipment has audio filters and accepts a 1/4 inch stereo
headphone jack.  I cleaned it up and it has been in line now for 
over an
hour.  The audio filters really help with CW in QRN and smooth out 
really
strong signals that otherwise had a harsh note as they were tuned 
across. P49V is on 40 meters and is about 40 over S9 and is smooth 
as silk.  The 1/4

inch headphone jack will help, too, as that is what is on the K3 I have
ordered (due in early July).

I just wanted to pass this along as one can find the old Kenwood 
speakers

for nearly nothing online or at hamfests and they will help K2 audio.

73,  Jim, K4ZMV



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6425 low/no sensitivity - suggestions?

2008-03-17 Thread TF3KX

Well, I took my lack-of-sensitivity analysis to the next stage and performed
the Signal Tracing checks, as described in the Elecraft K2 Manual.  Injected
the 0,14Vrms into the antenna connector when appropriate, and kept the
overload diodes (D40,D41) disconnected.

In short, the DC voltages are a little low but probably close enough to
normal, except U12 pin 5 (AGC) which measured 3.5V rather than 5.0V.  All RF
voltages appeared reasonably close to the K2 suggestions, up to and
including U12 pin 4 (U12 input).  The pin 4 voltage was 2.0V rather than the
suggested 0.4-0.8V.  However, the output signals from U12 seem to be
nonexistent:  U12p8 is 0V at all times, irrespective of the signal level
injected into the antenna terminal.  Subsequent signals are zero, as well
(U11 input through pin1, etc.).

Again, any suggestion on a plausible cause - a failed component or bad
soldering?  Has anyone run into this before, and have suggestions to try
out?

73 - Kristinn, TF3KX



TF3KX wrote:
 
 Hi - I am in the process of constructing my K2 and have two problems that
 may or may not be related.
 
 Problem 1:  Low, almost nonexistent RX sensitivity during Alignment II.  I
 can manage to copy a carrier from my MFJ antenna analyzer and I have used
 this to verify that IF and input circuits are peaked.  Injecting this
 signal into the antenna terminal I can also verify that PRE and ATT work
 as expected, as well as the crystal different filter bandwidths.  Using an
 IF carrier from the MFJ I have poked a low level signal into various parts
 of the IF chain.  An interesting thing is that I hear this signal much
 weaker in the K2 audio when I touch it to the INPUT of IF-amp U12 (MC1350)
 than to its OUTPUT.  In other words, that IF amp does not amplify, but
 rather attenuate the injected signal.  I have re-checked all connections
 around U12, re-flowed the solder, checked T7 and removed the overload
 diodes D40 and D41 - with no improvement.
 
 Problem 2:  Low 8V regulator output, 7.56V.  As a result I could only
 adjust the U2 pin 5 voltage to 3.60V using R1, in Alignment I.  Probing
 the voltages derived from the 8V supply, they are of course 5-10% lower
 than expected.  All DC voltages on U12 are consequently a little low, but
 otherwise not abnormal.
 
 I plan to get a local replacement for the 8V regulator, just in case.  But
 does anyone have comments on the low sensitivity?  Would the low 8V level
 be a possible cause for this?
 
 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX
 

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[Elecraft] FS: K2 s/n 5601

2008-03-17 Thread Bernard Gaffney, N8PVZ/QRP
Hi, 

  I've decided to sell my K2, s/n 5601. A little over
a year and a half old. I just don't use it all that
much. It was professionally assembled by one of the K2
Builders-for-Hire. Works fine, no problems.

  Includes the following:

   K2, QRP vers
   KAF2, Internal Audio Filter  Real Time Clock
   KBT2, Battery option, w/battery
   KIO2, Aux I/O
   KSB2, SSB option
   FDIMP, the Finger Dimple
   Kenwood MC-60A mic
   All original manuals

At current kit prices, over $1000 + $140 to $150 for
the mic.

Asking $850.00 + actual shipping, via USPS (UPS just
has too many surprise surcharges). US only, sorry, no
DX, I don't want to have to deal w/customs, etc.

Payment via PayPal.

Please reply directly to me at: arsn8pvz at yahoo dot
com, not via the listserve.

Reasonable counter-offers considered.

I can provide pictures of the K2 if requested.

Thanks.

   72 de N8PVZ
   ---bernie gaffney



  

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[Elecraft] RTTY basics

2008-03-17 Thread Nelson Wittstock
I would like to try RTTY with my new K3 but I know absolutely nothing about 
setting up for operating.  I need a basis to be able to use the instructions 
in the Owner's Manual.  Such things as what tones to use or speeds or 
anything else that needs to be set.  Where would I look to find a primer on 
operating RTTY and the other digital modes? Is this information available on 
line?


Nelson, K8DJC 



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RE: [Elecraft] RTTY basics

2008-03-17 Thread Ed Muns
 I would like to try RTTY with my new K3 but I know absolutely 
 nothing about setting up for operating.  I need a basis to be 
 able to use the instructions in the Owner's Manual.  Such 
 things as what tones to use or speeds or anything else that 
 needs to be set.  Where would I look to find a primer on 
 operating RTTY and the other digital modes? Is this 
 information available on line?

www.rttycontesting.com covers the basics as well as more advanced topics.
It is based on WriteLog and MMTTY, but all the basic knowledge is included.
There is a link to Don's Getting Started in RTTY tutorial, which is where
I recommend you go.  You can ignore the material on MMTTY if you want to
start out using the encoder/decoder in the K3.

The ARRL publishes a great book that gives an overview of all the digital
modes.

73,
Ed - W0YK

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