[Elecraft] WTD : Yaesu YM-36 Hand Microphone

[Andy - GM0NWI]

Good Morning Good People...

Possibly a long shot but thought I'd give this a try...

I'm looking for anyone who has a surplus to requirements Yaesu YM-36 Hand
Microphone...(1980's Vintage I think)..

If you think you have one of these and would be willing to either sell or
dare I say it donate (although I AM
WILLING to pay for anything found..!).. Please e-mail me direct to the
e-mail address below with what you have..

For those in need of a reminder as to what microphone this is see the
website below and click on the blue link
In the list for the YM-36


http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamhf/ft107m.html


As a reminder I am NOT looking for the model with the white UP/DOWN buttons
on the top which you will also find
On the above website.. I would prefer the Model without these...found at the
link above..

Thanks For The Bandwidth..

73's
Andy
GM0NWIandy.gm0n...@btinternet.com




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[Elecraft] A K3 CW/DX operating scenario from N6KR

[Wayne Burdick]

Believe it or not, I sometimes I get a break from work (like writing  
K3 firmware) and actually get on the air. Conditions were excellent to  
EU from northern California tonight. Just had a solid QSO with Tof,  
DJ6ZM.

I have a different view of the K3 than most -- almost from the inside  
out, as I'm alway thinking about both firmware and hardware. So I  
thought it might be interesting to explain how I set up the rig, using  
tonight's operation as an example.

(If you use the radio a lot differently and have an interesting tale  
to tell, feel free to share it. Perhaps someone else would like to  
give us an example in SSB, AM, or data mode.)

I started out with VFO A on 7005.0, then turned the P3 on and set it  
for a span of 10 kHz (7000-7010). I adjusted the P3's REF LVL control  
for optimal contrast on weak signals -- about a 50/50 mix of blue and  
black when looking only at noise.

Next, I turned on diversity receive (long hold of the SUB switch) and  
put the sub RX on a different antenna from main. This provides a  
significant improvement in signal copy in fading conditions, as long  
as the two antennas have somewhat different polarization. I also have  
the SUB AF knob defined as main/sub AF balance (this is accomplished  
using CONFIG:SUB AF).

All my AGC settings are at factory defaults, RF GAIN is at maximum,  
and AGC is set to slow (AGC-S).

I like *really* narrow filtering on a noisy band. Here's how I have it  
set it up tonight:

   PITCH = 550 Hz
   WIDTH = 50 Hz (DSP), selecting the 200-Hz crystal filter
   NR turned on and set to F8-4

I even went so far as to turn on the "IIR" DSP audio filtering for  
this occasion, since it provides steeper skirts and further cuts  
noise. I would normally recommend sticking with "FIR" filters (the  
default), which have less ringing. But if you want to try the IIR  
filter yourself, locate CONFIG:FL5 BW (or whatever filter you're on),  
then tap #7 on the keypad. This turns IIR filtering on or off. If you  
did this a lot you might want to create a switch macro for it -- see  
the K3 Programmer's Reference or K3 Utility help.

I'm very fond of the K3's new QRQ CW mode ("CW+"), which I use at all  
times except when I'm using SPLIT or RIT with the sub receiver turned  
off. When QRQ CW is enabled, a '+' symbol appears in the mode area. CW 
+ is especially well suited to hunt-and-pounce DXing. Break-in is  
extremely fast, so you'll know right away if the DX station hasn't  
heard you, and is calling CQ again. I have the associated menu entry,  
CONFIG:CW QRQ, assigned to special function key PF1 so I can turn it  
on/off quickly. (Regular, non-QRQ-mode break-in is plenty fast for  
most operation, of course. I'm just really picky :)

Given the high atmospheric noise, I have the main RX preamp turned  
off. The sub is using a lower-gain antenna, so it's preamp is on.

Finally, I have the K3's time display turned on. I use paper logging  
when operating casually (with the computer and its annoying fan turned  
off), so the real-time-clock time and date displays come in handy. I  
don't need to see the VFO B frequency since the rig is set up for  
diversity mode, where VFO A controls both the A and B synthesizers.

Now for the fun part: Watching DX signals pop up on the P3! It's like  
shooting fish in a barrel. I use about half the screen height for the  
waterfall display, which shows me at a glance a history of where CW  
signals have been recently. I use the other half of the screen for the  
spectral display. In many cases I can tell a DX station from a  
stateside station by the height of the pip.

When I see something of interest, I turn on the P3's MKR A (VFO A QSY  
marker), adjust the knob, and click -- bingo, the signal pops up in  
the passband. Might adjust the VFO A knob on the K3 to fine-tune the  
signal in some cases. I also have CWT turned on, so I can tap SPOT on  
the K3 to quickly zero in on any on-air signal so that it matches my  
pitch. This isn't necessary very often since I'm using such a tight  
filter.

I was using 10 watts most of the time, but for the DJ6 I cranked it up  
to 100 W. One call.

That's it for my CW DXing scenario. Let me know if you have any  
questions about the features I've detailed above.

73,
Wayne
N6KR













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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No power on transmit

[Don Wilhelm]

Certainly, a 'scope will act as an amplitude measuring device for RF - 
up to a frequency limit.  The frequency rating for the 'scope as well as 
the probe must be taken into consideration.  If both the probe and the 
'scope are rated for 100 MHz, then they are quite usable up through 20 
MHz and possibly even up to 30 MHz.  The frequency rating of the 'scope 
and probe is where the response is 3 dB down, so if the frequency rating 
is 100 MHz, you will see only half the actual amplitude at 100 MHz.

Since the values listed are for RMS as read by an RF probe, multiply the 
"expected" values by 2.8 (use 3 for quick multiplication) to obtain the 
peak to peak values seen on the 'scope.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian Denley wrote:
> Don:
> Thanks for the advice.  I do have a Tek 2225 with 10x probes so I will start 
> with that.  I wasn't aware that they would be acceptable as RF probes.  I 
> might just start on page 10 and go through everything.
> Thanks again for the help!
> Brian
> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #2

[John Hoaglun]

Hi Don and the list,

After replacing R6 on the KAT2 board I went back thru the transverters
to see where I am at after the change.

XV144 - ~1mW of drive = 12w power (into a Bird 43 slug + dummy load)
Target is 25w
XV222 - ~.42mW of drive (virtually no power out) Target is 10w
XV432 - ~.50mW of drive (virtually no power out) Target is 10w

I decided to go back to the XV432 since that is what we have been
talking about recently.  After peaking the filters again and I am seeing
about 1.9V at TP6. What kind of number should I see?

I will pick this up again in the morning when I my mind is fresh.

73

-- 
John Hoaglun
NG0R - EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com



On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 16:42 -0500, John Hoaglun wrote:

> Hi Don & the list,
> 
> I am making some slow progress on the 432 transverter setup.
> 
> Initially TP6 was almost nill so I hooked up the Oscope and worked my
> way from the IF-In to the Mixer. The 28MHz band pass looked suspect,
> specifically C52/C54 as the drop at each capacitor was pretty sharp
> even for a BP filter. I replaced them with fresh 150pF caps that I had
> on hand. That improved the situation but my levels were still low
> measured at TP5, TP6, and the output with an RF meter, and analyzer.
> 
> I tried tuning up the filters with using the analyzer & rf meter. That
> once again slightly improved things but not enough to quantify.
> 
> I reset the PA bias back to the 20mV and then went to TP6 again. I was
> able to very slowly move from almost 0 to 2V by working my way thru
> the filters and then going back thru it again several times
> 
> TP3/TP4 20mV 
> PA voltage 2.35V & 13.7V
> TP5 0V
> T6 2.05V
> U6 Output pin 4.97V
> 
> My 60MHz Oscope is not fast enough to make a good measurements at U6
> IN/OUT and U7 IN/OUT but it does not appear that I am seeing enough
> gain at U6. I suspect that U6 is not driving U7 hard enough for U7 do
> any work. 
> 
> Any suggestions how to test this?
> 
> What else should I be looking at & testing?
> 
> Thanks, JH
> 
> -- 
> John Hoaglun
> NG0R - EN25
> http://www.hoaglun.com
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Wiki Site

[Sam Morgan]

On 8/21/2010 10:11 PM, David and Dianne on Comcast wrote:
>Does anyone know what happened to the K3 Wiki Page?
>
> I got the following message when trying to access
> it today.
> *
> "The requested URL /mediawiki/index.php/Main_Page
> was not found on this server.*"
>
> I hope that it has just moved as it contained a
> lot of good Elecraft Info.
>
the cached version is still available here:
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:Uc89WxHkgHQJ:www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_DSP+K3_media+wiki


also there is
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K3
or is that a different one?

> Thanks,
>
> 73 de N1LQ-Dave
>
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>


-- 
GB & 73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No power on transmit

[Brian Denley]

Don:
Thanks for the advice.  I do have a Tek 2225 with 10x probes so I will start 
with that.  I wasn't aware that they would be acceptable as RF probes.  I 
might just start on page 10 and go through everything.
Thanks again for the help!
Brian
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: "Brian Denley" 
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No power on transmit


> Brian,
>
> I think you are in for some Transmit Signal Tracing.  If you do not have a 
> 'scope with a 10X probe or an RF Probe already, build up the RF Probe 
> included with your K2 kit.
> Then turn to Appendix E in the manual and follow the procedure for 
> Transmit Signal Tracing.
> Note that the steps on page 14, the "expected" values are shown for a 
> properly working K2 at 5 watts.  The RF Voltages that you should see will 
> be higher - up to the point of the failing stage where it will drop lower. 
> You are looking for that first point where the RF voltage is lower than 
> the expected value.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Brian Denley wrote:
>> I have completed the last assembly steps leading to Alignment and Test 
>> Part 3 and started the testing.  Everything went OK until I keyed the 
>> transmitter (using TUNE) at 2 watts.  The most power I can get on the 
>> internal power meter is .5 watts.  I do see the current draw rise to 
>> about 0.44 amps (from 0.22).  Adjusting L1,L2 have no effect so there 
>> must be a problem in the RF circuit somewhere.  The receiver stil works 
>> fine.  I looked at T1-T4 but I don't see anything wrong with the 
>> windings.  Anyone know what the most probable causes are to start my 
>> troubleshooting phase?  BTW I used a 50 ohm dummy load rated at 50 watts. 
>> I will admit that installing T4 links was extremely difficult due to the 
>> closeness of other components.
>> Thanks
>> Brian Denley
>> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>>
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>> 

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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #3

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Good news - on situation #2:
Set the KAT2 menu to CALP and I believe you will bypass the 0.2 watt 
limitation of the AUTO setting.  Your other option is to use a keydown 
condition rather than TUNE.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Hoaglun wrote:
> Hi Don & the list
>
> Ok the change has been made.  I am now seeing around 1mW from the K60XV.
>
> I think that we can close out Issue #3 and go back to Issue #2 which is
> the real topic.
>
> 73
>
>   
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[Elecraft] K3 Wiki Site

[David and Dianne on Comcast]

  Does anyone know what happened to the K3 Wiki Page?

I got the following message when trying to access 
it today.
*
"The requested URL /mediawiki/index.php/Main_Page 
was not found on this server.*"

I hope that it has just moved as it contained a 
lot of good Elecraft Info.

Thanks,

73 de N1LQ-Dave

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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #3

[John Hoaglun]

Hi Don & the list

Ok the change has been made.  I am now seeing around 1mW from the K60XV.

I think that we can close out Issue #3 and go back to Issue #2 which is
the real topic.

73

-- 
John Hoaglun
NG0R - EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com



On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 21:19 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> John,
> 
> A definite YES on #3 - this is your first order of business.  If you 
> have a KAT2 in your K2 package, change the KAT2 R6 to 470 ohms.  If you 
> do not, you will not be able to achieve the full 1 mW output from the 
> K60XV.  The KAT2 does not have a tri-state driver for the VRFDET signal 
> and its output will interfere with the power control circuits when the 
> K60XV is in use.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   The weather has turned chilly again.  High 40s each night with low 60s 
during the day.  Looks like there may even be some rain soon.  That will cut 
down on the fire danger even though it has not been very high at all this year. 
 
   Propagation on twenty meters was pretty good for this week with slight QSB.  
The sun looks quiet but a coronal hole is turning toward us.  That could 
provide for a few ions to excite the Heaviside layer.  Only a few days ago a 
CME hit the earth a glancing blow to give some nice auroral displays closer to 
the magnetic poles.  One day I must get back to the Midwest to get closer to 
the pole than here.

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP  help)
 
Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday z (Sunday 5 PM PDT)  7045 kHz
 
   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
-

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Re: [Elecraft] Is your P3 on the right or left?

[Brett Howard]

In all true honesty I'm probably a bit weird but I find that I really
like having the P3 on the right but then I wonk the back around a bit.
Essentially I pull the right around on a radius until the bottom right
corner of the K3 and the bottom left corner of the P3 get just close but
not touching.  I kinda like this as it makes a nice concave wrap around
button panel.  Kinda like a tri-mirror would be...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-08-22 at 01:45 +, Ken Kopp wrote:
> I have just completed the first combination 
> K3 / P3 cover (Ken's), and I'd like to know 
> if you have your P3 on the right or left side 
> of your K3.  I would expect that because of 
> the K3 carrying handle most will place the 
> P3 on the right.
> 
> It makes no difference in the measurements
> of the cover, but it becomes important if you
> were to order one -with- a cutout for the MIC
> and / or PHONES jacks.
> 
> 73! Rose - N7HKW
>elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] Is your P3 on the right or left?

[Ken Kopp]

I have just completed the first combination 
K3 / P3 cover (Ken's), and I'd like to know 
if you have your P3 on the right or left side 
of your K3.  I would expect that because of 
the K3 carrying handle most will place the 
P3 on the right.

It makes no difference in the measurements
of the cover, but it becomes important if you
were to order one -with- a cutout for the MIC
and / or PHONES jacks.

73! Rose - N7HKW
   elecraftcov...@rfwave.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Aux power relay source

[Don Wilhelm]

I don't understand what all the fuss about specific relays is all about.
Any relay that can handle the current desired and has a 12 volt coil 
will do the job.
Relay speed is not a consideration, it will pull in when the K3 is 
turned on, and will stay in that state until the K3 is turned off, so 
operating time is not a factor, only the contact current rating (must be 
sufficient for whatever accessories you wish to power), and the relay 
coil must respond to 12 volts and draw less than 500 ma.

73,
Don W3FPR

Richard Dowling wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> One source of easy-to-use automotive type relays is Elk 
> Products.  They make home security/automation products and I've used 
> them extensively for that purpose but also the relays are generally 
> useful.  See 
> http://www.elkproducts.com/relays_timers_and_programmable_modules.html 
> for their line of relays on a board in various configurations.
>
> I've always purchased them through Worthington Distribution 
> http://www.worthingtondistribution.com/ as they have great service 
> and reasonable prices.  I'm sure there are other sources though.
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #3

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

A definite YES on #3 - this is your first order of business.  If you 
have a KAT2 in your K2 package, change the KAT2 R6 to 470 ohms.  If you 
do not, you will not be able to achieve the full 1 mW output from the 
K60XV.  The KAT2 does not have a tri-state driver for the VRFDET signal 
and its output will interfere with the power control circuits when the 
K60XV is in use.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Hoaglun wrote:
> 3. KAT2 modification for use with K60XV LP mode: In some cases the LM358
> op-amp on the KAT2
> can load down the K60XV's low-power RF detector (at the emitter of Q2),
> preventing the K60XV from
> developing a full 0 dBm (1 milliwatt) signal at the transverter OUT
> jack. To correct this, change R6 on
> the KAT2 from 47 ohms to 470 ohms. This resistor is supplied with the
> K60XV kit. R6 is on the bottom
> of the KAT2 control board, and can be changed without removing the KAT2
> module.
>
>
> Maybe Item #3 is the answer.  Thoughts?  I might try this after dinner.
>
>   
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[Elecraft] K3 Aux power relay source

[Richard Dowling]

Hi All,

One source of easy-to-use automotive type relays is Elk 
Products.  They make home security/automation products and I've used 
them extensively for that purpose but also the relays are generally 
useful.  See 
http://www.elkproducts.com/relays_timers_and_programmable_modules.html 
for their line of relays on a board in various configurations.

I've always purchased them through Worthington Distribution 
http://www.worthingtondistribution.com/ as they have great service 
and reasonable prices.  I'm sure there are other sources though.

73,

Richard
KL0DR


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[Elecraft] Career in Electrical Engineering?

[Alan D. Wilcox]

  Hello,

Thanks to my early interest in amateur radio, I went on to become an 
electrical engineer. Many of you Reflector readers have sons and 
daughters who might be looking at a future in engineering as I did years 
ago.

Recently I finished my "Life and Advice" memoirs that might be helpful 
reading for our young engineers-in-the-making.

You can find the Kindle edition on Amazon ... search by its number 
b003xre5ty in the Kindle Store. Amazon provides a free sample of most of 
the first chapter. No Kindle? Get a free "Kindle for PC," Mac, iPhone, 
iTouch, etc. The download info is on the right side of my book's detail 
page.

If you find the book helpful to your children, please respond off-Reflector.

Cheers, Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
Williamsport, PA 17701

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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #3

[John Hoaglun]

Maybe this notes in the K60XV errata apply to this issue:

2. Using TUNE mode with the K60XV and KAT2 installed: If the KAT2 is in
either of its autotune
modes (A U T O or A LT ), and you’re on a transverter band configured
for LP mode (Low Power, 0 dBm),
holding TUNE drops power to 0.2 milliwatts maximum. You can override
this behavior by holding
D I S P L A Y along with TUNE, or by selecting any KAT2 mode other than
A U T O or A LT in the menu.

3. KAT2 modification for use with K60XV LP mode: In some cases the LM358
op-amp on the KAT2
can load down the K60XV's low-power RF detector (at the emitter of Q2),
preventing the K60XV from
developing a full 0 dBm (1 milliwatt) signal at the transverter OUT
jack. To correct this, change R6 on
the KAT2 from 47 ohms to 470 ohms. This resistor is supplied with the
K60XV kit. R6 is on the bottom
of the KAT2 control board, and can be changed without removing the KAT2
module.


Maybe Item #3 is the answer.  Thoughts?  I might try this after dinner.

73

-- 
John Hoaglun
NG0R - EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com



On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 19:30 -0500, John Hoaglun wrote:

> Another follow-up note/question on the transverter topic
> 
> On the K2+K60XV when I set the radio (tran1, tran2, tran3) each to
> LP1.00 would expect that I should see a maximum of 1mW of power
> available.
> 
> When I actually measure that IF line I am only seeing about .50mW and
> the radio is typically showing something like "P .42 LP".  
> 
> Q: Should approx 1mW really be available?
> Q: If so, shouldn't the radio show something like "P  1.00 LP" or
> "P .95 LP"  ?
> 
> I realize that I am likely battling several issues on my setup. But I
> am feeling like my LP is only running about 1/2 the drive into the
> transverter than I am expecting. Starting out with the drive level
> that you expect seems like an important step.  :-)  I have an empty
> house this weekend so I was hoping to get the transverters up and
> running.
> 
> 
> Please CC me direct as I am a digest user.
> 
> 73
> -- 
> John Hoaglun
> NG0R - EN25
> http://www.hoaglun.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #3

[John Hoaglun]

Another follow-up note/question on the transverter topic

On the K2+K60XV when I set the radio (tran1, tran2, tran3) each to
LP1.00 would expect that I should see a maximum of 1mW of power
available.

When I actually measure that IF line I am only seeing about .50mW and
the radio is typically showing something like "P .42 LP".  

Q: Should approx 1mW really be available?
Q: If so, shouldn't the radio show something like "P  1.00 LP" or "P .95
LP"  ?

I realize that I am likely battling several issues on my setup. But I am
feeling like my LP is only running about 1/2 the drive into the
transverter than I am expecting. Starting out with the drive level that
you expect seems like an important step.  :-)  I have an empty house
this weekend so I was hoping to get the transverters up and running.


Please CC me direct as I am a digest user.

73
-- 
John Hoaglun
NG0R - EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com




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Re: [Elecraft] [P-3] Feature request for easier QSY

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I've had the same thing happen because I was being careful and pressing the
knob fairly slowly, trying to avoid turning it. 

What works is to set the knob for the desired value and then "stab" at the
knob to activate the switch. Yes, you'll often move it that way but the
switch activates within the 200 mS window so any change during the "stab"
isn't registered. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi Art,

> ... it's very easy to move it slightly as you tap it and end up slightly
off the desired frequency.

I'm surprised you're having that problem.  It did exist on early 
prototypes, but back around firmware version 00.23 I added an 
anti-false-knob-rotation algorithm for the QSY function.  It keeps track
of the last six MKR A or MKR B values during knob rotation and the time 
each one occurred.  When the knob is tapped, it assumes any knob 
rotation in the last 200 ms is not "real" and uses the last value 
before that.  So any knob rotation for 200 ms before the tap is ignored.

I do plan to add a MENU item to assign the knob tap to a FN key, but I'm
hoping nobody uses it!  If there's a problem with the operation of the
knob switch I want to fix it so people don't have to do that.

By the way, there were some improvements in the knob decoding algorithm
and MKR A and MKR B operation in versions 00.30 and 00.31, so you
probably want to be sure you have the latest firmware.  I think 00.32 is
the current release.

Alan N1AL



On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 12:02 -0400, k...@aol.com wrote:
> Would it be possible to add a menu choice to assign a FN key to cause the
K-3 to QSY to the frequency of  a Marker? By requiring us to use the knob to
Tap to QSY, it's very easy to move it slightly as you tap it and end up
slightly off the desired frequency.
> 
> It would be much easier, in my opinion, to use the knob to set the desired
frequency, then Tap FN4 or FN8 to cause the K-3 to QSY.
> 
> Otherwise, I'm very pleased with the P-3's performance.
> 
> 73, 
> 
> Art KZ5D
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

[Phil and Christina]

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (8/22/10) at 1800z on 14.314
MHz. I will be net control from western Oregon, and I will try to swing the
antenna in multiple directions to get as many of you as I can. See you then.

73,
Phil NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] VFO-B stuck / pse advice

[Wayne Burdick]

No problem, Felipe.

Boa sorte -- deixe-me saber se você tem outras perguntas.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


Felipe Ceglia wrote:

> Hi Wayne,
>
> We havent tought of a hardware problem, and that would produce exactly
> this symptom, hihi.
>
> 73 & thanks for your advice,
>
> Felipe - PY1NB

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Re: [Elecraft] VFO-B stuck / pse advice

[Felipe Ceglia]

Hi Wayne,

We havent tought of a hardware problem, and that would produce exactly
this symptom, hihi.

73 & thanks for your advice,

Felipe - PY1NB

2010/8/21 Wayne Burdick :
> Hi Felipe,
>
> This should never happen. It sounds like the VFO B shaft encoder may be
> inserted too far into the front panel. Try removing the VFO B knob and
> checking the panel hardware. If backing VFO B out a bit doesn't fix it,
> remove the front panel and inspect the VFO B connectors. If you don't see
> the problem right away, please email K3support.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> Felipe Ceglia wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> A friend of mine has the VFO-B on his K3 stuck.  Frequency wont
>> change. Also, when he tries to access the menu, all he can see is
>> FW-rev.
>>
>> Is this a common issue? He tried front panel resetting the rig, but
>> that did not fix the issue.
>
>
>



-- 
Felipe Ceglia - PY1NB
-
PR1T team member /// Rio DX Group member /// Araucaria DX Group member
http://www.dxwatch.com /// http://reversebeacon.net ///
http://riodxgroup.dxwatch.com
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Re: [Elecraft] NEW TO THE LIST [P3 vs. LP-Pan]

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Bob,

The LP-Pan uses a PC for its display. Many operators prefer a stand- 
alone Panadapter like our new P3, which sits beside the K3 and doesn't  
require a PC for operation.

The P3 is very tightly integrated with the K3 -- basically plug-and- 
play. It displays the K3's VFO A and B frequencies, VFO bandwidths,  
and QSY markers so you can jump to a desired signal easily. The P3's  
firmware is continuing to evolve, and in the future it will provide  
additional features. There's a daisy-chain IF OUT output so you could  
connect an LP-Pan in addition to the P3, if you'd like.

The kit version of the P3 is very easy to build. No soldering  
required. Building it yourself will save you $50.

I'm probably biased :)  You can find customer reviews of the P3 at:

http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/9146

73,
Wayne
N6KR


Bob Peters wrote:

> I am considering the purchase of a K3. I have been told to go with
> the lp-pan and when I read what the new pan adapter does.
>
> It looks like this will do the same as the lp-pan or am I wrong.  
> Will the
> pan adapter show frequency??? Will it show the menu's?? What is the  
> benefit
> of the lp-pan over the elecraft pan adapter???


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Re: [Elecraft] Err 12V

[Brett Howard]

Check the crimp connections on the spades that connect to the circuit
breaker...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 20:55 +, Paul Ormandy ZL4PW wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> Yesterday, the K3 threw up the "Err 12V" error and bypassed the KPA3 
> module. The circuit breaker didn't pop and I was able to power off and 
> increase the power back up.
> 
> This was happening on PSK with 50W and RTTY with 100W.
> 
> I have yet to try digi modes in anger again today without first getting 
> some feedback. I had close to zero AGC/compression when this occurred.
> 
> Any suggestions will be most welcome.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Paul
> 


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - 105

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

I could certainly see an option that would "hold" the center frequency
if is was not the same as VFO A or VFO B ... I could also see an option
that would allow the center to track VFO B instead of VFO A.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/21/2010 12:48 PM, Terry wrote:
>
> 105 up and working - very nicely !
> I think this was mentioned previously .. it would be very useful to be
> able to pick a `section` of the band to display without being tied to
> the K3 centre frequency, for instance, if a station was listening `up 10
> to 20` the span could be set to 10kcs and the whole of the `10 to 20 up`
> area viewed, rather than, at present, having to actually set the span to
> 40 kcs to view that section, with the lower 20kcs of no interest.
>
> Think that makes sense !
>
> 73
> Terry
> G4AMT
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Re: [Elecraft] P3. Center Freq Hold?

[Brett Howard]

That will be coming in a future software release.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 14:46 -0700, Eric wrote:
> I built my P3 #226 last night and I LOVE IT!  Another beautiful Elecraft 
> design. 
> 
> One question--is there a way to freeze the center frequency so that it doesnt 
> move as I tune my K3?  I can't find this in the manual or by playing with it. 
>   It would be great if i could look at the bottom 40 kHz of 40m while i crawl 
> around there in the middle of the night. 
> 
> If not, is it possible for a future fw update?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Eric WD6DBM
> 
> Sent from my &$...@!? iPhone
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[Elecraft] NEW TO THE LIST

[Bob Peters]

 

Hi All.. I am considering the purchase of a K3. I have been told to go with
the lp-pan and when I read what the new pan adapter does

It looks like this will do the same as the lp-pan or am I wrong. Will the
pan adapter show frequency??? Will it show the menu's?? What is the benefit
of 

The lp-pan over the elecraft pan adapter???

 

 

Very Best 73's

Bob Peters

W1PE

 

ARRL, QCWA, AM FOREVER

 

Money is only temporary, Radio is forever

>From The Old Dog

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] VFO-B stuck / pse advice

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Felipe,

This should never happen. It sounds like the VFO B shaft encoder may  
be inserted too far into the front panel. Try removing the VFO B knob  
and checking the panel hardware. If backing VFO B out a bit doesn't  
fix it, remove the front panel and inspect the VFO B connectors. If  
you don't see the problem right away, please email K3support.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Felipe Ceglia wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A friend of mine has the VFO-B on his K3 stuck.  Frequency wont
> change. Also, when he tries to access the menu, all he can see is
> FW-rev.
>
> Is this a common issue? He tried front panel resetting the rig, but
> that did not fix the issue.


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Re: [Elecraft] [P-3] Feature request for easier QSY

[Larry - K2GN]

I've clicked on telnet spots and more often than not still have to tune.
I think this has been going on for years.
Even now with the P3 capability, shaky hands, bad eyesight and even the
spotter of the DX station that likes his Side tone a little different than I
do, I always fine tune.
If you do plan to assign the tap to a FN key, please make so the P3 operator
has to program the key, just make the code available.
I'd hate to lose a FN.
de K2GN - Larry - http://k2gn.com
K3 S/N - 3278P3 S/N - 51




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan Bloom
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 6:11 PM
To: k...@aol.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [P-3] Feature request for easier QSY

Hi Art,

> ... it's very easy to move it slightly as you tap it and end up slightly
off the desired frequency.

I'm surprised you're having that problem.  It did exist on early 
prototypes, but back around firmware version 00.23 I added an 
anti-false-knob-rotation algorithm for the QSY function.  It keeps track

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[Elecraft] VFO-B stuck / pse advice

[Felipe Ceglia]

Hi,

A friend of mine has the VFO-B on his K3 stuck.  Frequency wont
change. Also, when he tries to access the menu, all he can see is
FW-rev.

Is this a common issue? He tried front panel resetting the rig, but
that did not fix the issue.

73m

-- 
Felipe Ceglia - PY1NB
-
PR1T team member /// Rio DX Group member /// Araucaria DX Group member
http://www.dxwatch.com /// http://reversebeacon.net ///
http://riodxgroup.dxwatch.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [P-3] Feature request for easier QSY

[Alan Bloom]

Hi Art,

> ... it's very easy to move it slightly as you tap it and end up slightly off 
> the desired frequency.

I'm surprised you're having that problem.  It did exist on early 
prototypes, but back around firmware version 00.23 I added an 
anti-false-knob-rotation algorithm for the QSY function.  It keeps track
of the last six MKR A or MKR B values during knob rotation and the time 
each one occurred.  When the knob is tapped, it assumes any knob 
rotation in the last 200 ms is not "real" and uses the last value 
before that.  So any knob rotation for 200 ms before the tap is ignored.

I do plan to add a MENU item to assign the knob tap to a FN key, but I'm
hoping nobody uses it!  If there's a problem with the operation of the
knob switch I want to fix it so people don't have to do that.

By the way, there were some improvements in the knob decoding algorithm
and MKR A and MKR B operation in versions 00.30 and 00.31, so you
probably want to be sure you have the latest firmware.  I think 00.32 is
the current release.

Alan N1AL



On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 12:02 -0400, k...@aol.com wrote:
> Would it be possible to add a menu choice to assign a FN key to cause the K-3 
> to QSY to the frequency of  a Marker? By requiring us to use the knob to Tap 
> to QSY, it's very easy to move it slightly as you tap it and end up slightly 
> off the desired frequency.
> 
> It would be much easier, in my opinion, to use the knob to set the desired 
> frequency, then Tap FN4 or FN8 to cause the K-3 to QSY.
> 
> Otherwise, I'm very pleased with the P-3's performance.
> 
> 73, 
> 
> Art KZ5D
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[Ken Kopp]

I've answered my own question ...

No, the three units add up to about 1.2A ... Far too
much current for the 12VDC OUT jack to support.

73! Ken - K0PP
> 
> Would it be "safe" to add the W2 to this mix?
> 
> K0PP
> 
> 
>> Yes. The 12 V aux current should be kept below 500 mA, and the P3+PR6  
>> should be well below this.
>> 
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>> 
>> 
>> On Aug 21, 2010, at 1:56 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>> 
>>> I've seen the postings about providing power from the K3 Aux 12v  
>>> socket - is there enough to drive the 6m Pre-amp and the P3?
>>> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108

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[Elecraft] P3. Center Freq Hold?

[Eric]

I built my P3 #226 last night and I LOVE IT!  Another beautiful Elecraft 
design. 

One question--is there a way to freeze the center frequency so that it doesnt 
move as I tune my K3?  I can't find this in the manual or by playing with it.   
It would be great if i could look at the bottom 40 kHz of 40m while i crawl 
around there in the middle of the night. 

If not, is it possible for a future fw update?

Thanks

Eric WD6DBM

Sent from my &$...@!? iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #2

[John Hoaglun]

Hi Don & the list,

I am making some slow progress on the 432 transverter setup.

Initially TP6 was almost nill so I hooked up the Oscope and worked my
way from the IF-In to the Mixer. The 28MHz band pass looked suspect,
specifically C52/C54 as the drop at each capacitor was pretty sharp even
for a BP filter. I replaced them with fresh 150pF caps that I had on
hand. That improved the situation but my levels were still low measured
at TP5, TP6, and the output with an RF meter, and analyzer.

I tried tuning up the filters with using the analyzer & rf meter. That
once again slightly improved things but not enough to quantify.

I reset the PA bias back to the 20mV and then went to TP6 again. I was
able to very slowly move from almost 0 to 2V by working my way thru the
filters and then going back thru it again several times

TP3/TP4 20mV 
PA voltage 2.35V & 13.7V
TP5 0V
T6 2.05V
U6 Output pin 4.97V

My 60MHz Oscope is not fast enough to make a good measurements at U6
IN/OUT and U7 IN/OUT but it does not appear that I am seeing enough gain
at U6. I suspect that U6 is not driving U7 hard enough for U7 do any
work. 

Any suggestions how to test this?

What else should I be looking at & testing?

Thanks, JH
 
-- 
John Hoaglun
NG0R - EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com



On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 09:07 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> John,
> 
> On the XV432, can you vary the DC voltage measured at TP6 when you 
> adjust the Input Attenuator?  TP6 is a built-in RF probe which measures 
> the RF voltage at the output of U6.  If you can see that voltage change 
> when adjusting the input attenuator, you can use it for peaking the 
> bandpass filters.
> On the XV222, there is no TP6, but you can use an external RF Probe to 
> do the same thing.
> If there is no output from U6, try the input.  The first step to your 
> troubleshooting is to determine what works, and secondly to discover 
> where in the chain of events the failure occurs.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> John Hoaglun wrote:
> > Hi Don & group
> >
> > I tried using a low pass filter between the K60XV and the 432
> > transverter and went thru the tune-up from scratch with similar results.
> > I removed the LP filter.
> >
> > I measured the K60XV out at -3dBM or about 50mW which what I say last
> > night as well. I put it on my counter & analyzer and notice that it
> > there is something at 18MHz that is about +8-10 dB louder than the 28MHz
> > IF.  --Interesting note.
> >
> > I then tried your second suggestion:  I reconfigured the transverter for
> > a high power IF input,  JP3/JP4 2-3, and JP5/JP6 1-2, and the associated
> > menu settings.  Using port A on the radio I tried rerunning the
> > transverter setup and got similar results.
> >
> > Common theme: TP5 has almost no reading on it while adjusting R22.
> > Adjusting the inductors does not cause a significant change in TP5.  (I
> > can see it on the analyzer with a directional coupler on the output but
> > it is a TINY signal.)
> >
> >
> >   
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[Elecraft] Err 12V

[Paul Ormandy ZL4PW]

Hi all,

Yesterday, the K3 threw up the "Err 12V" error and bypassed the KPA3 
module. The circuit breaker didn't pop and I was able to power off and 
increase the power back up.

This was happening on PSK with 50W and RTTY with 100W.

I have yet to try digi modes in anger again today without first getting 
some feedback. I had close to zero AGC/compression when this occurred.

Any suggestions will be most welcome.

Regards,

Paul

-- 
Paul Ormandy ZL4PW ZM4M
www.radiodx.com
www.zl4pw.orcon.net.nz

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[Brett Howard]

I went to radio shack and got the relay I needed.  I then built a box
that will pass 10A to several RCA connectors (I wanted to be able to
plug the units plugged into the box into the K3 when portable with a sub
set of my goodies).  Anyway I then also got a few of the cheapy cores
that Radio Shack has there.  I put an LC filter on each port just for
fun...  I figured if I was making it it only takes a short bit of time
to put some RF filtering on each port...  I also stuck a couple big bulk
caps in there just for grins.  Then an LED to signify that its on too
(why not...).  Finally installed a suitable cord with an APP on it to
supply the 10A of power.  All in all its a useful little box and every
piece of it can be had at Radio Shack still today.

~Brett  

On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 12:09 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:
> I would think we users are getting to a point where a good, automotive relay 
> designed for continuous duty usage would be a good idea here.  Simply use 
> the 12v auxilliary power to feed the coil of the relay and let the contacts 
> of the relay feed power from our 12v supplies.  I don't remember the stock 
> numbers of the parts, but we used these in an oilfield industrial 
> application a few years ago and had VERY few failures, and when we did, they 
> were readily available local to the unit being used.  They have a multitude 
> of mounts so they should be easy to integrate into the shack.  That's the 
> route I plan to take, that is if the relay pulls less than 500 mills, hi.
> 73,
> Don, WB5HAK 
> 
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[Elecraft] VFO B doesn't scroll

[Ricardo A. Rodrigues]

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Re: [Elecraft] Question

[R. Kevin Stover]

-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

As long as there is SDR software that will run on the Mac I don't see
why not. LP-PAN is hardware agnostic as long as you have a pretty good
sound card in the PC or Mac.

I run my K2/100, LP-PAN combo on Linux quite a lot using Linrad.

LP-PAN is NOT LP-Bridge, a piece of software which provides virtual
serial ports to share radio data among you're logging program, SDR
program, etc Don't think there's a Mac equivalent for that yet but
there may be.

On 8/21/2010 1:05 PM, Phil LaMarche wrote:
> Will the K3 and LP-Pan run with Apple?
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Phil
>  
> Philip LaMarche
>  
> LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
> p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
> www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com   
>  
> 727-944-3226
> 727-937-8834 Fax
> 727-510-5038 Cell 
>  
> www.w9dvm.com  
>  
> K3 #1605
>  
> CCA 98-00827
> CRA 1701
> W9DVM
>  
>  
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- -- 
R. Kevin Stover

ACØH
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[Elecraft] [K2] KPA100 build comments (Sorta long)

[Jay]

Group,

I have just completed the build of a KPA100 for my K2 and
wanted to post a few comments about it.

First, let me say that I had forgotten just how much fun it
is to work on an Elecraft product, and how much personal
pleasure I get in doing something myself.  The KPA100 is no
exception to the normal Elecraft standards.  It is an
excellent kit with great documentation and a lot of fun to
build.

Other than a few operator malfunctions (i.e. loose nut
behind the soldering iron), the KPA100 went together with no
problems and worked perfectly the first time (after fixing
the operator errors).  Total actual build time, including
the inventory, was about 23 hours, give or take, over 11
sessions.  In no special order, these are my comments:

1.  DO THE INVENTORY.  While the parts count is much lower
than the K2 kit, caps of the same value have different lead
separations.  Several caps have different shapes than are
usually seen so it is a good idea to get familiar with what
they look like.  Doing the inventory also allows you the
opportunity to group like parts.

2.  Read and follow the directions carefully.  Operator
malfunction #1 was mounting a .001 uF cap (102) in a
position where a .01 uF should have gone.  Having done the
inventory and knowing the cap count was correct, I knew that
I had messed up when I needed a .001uF and all I had left
was a .01uF.

3.  Install the optional inline fuse in the power cord.
This, IMHO, was the most difficult part of the construction.
To be blunt, it was a PITA.  I finally gave up trying to do
it the "book" way and did it my way.  An 11/64" drill bit
opened the ends of the plastic fuse holder for the #12 wire
with insulation.  A 7/64" drill bit opened up the metal
terminal enough to insert the #12 wire sans insulation.
There are two reasons to install the inline fuse.  First, of
course, is for safety/protection.  The second reason is that
by removing the fuse, it makes the insertion of a DC ammeter
in the power line easy so that the bias adjustment can be
performed.

4.  Keep the "Parts Placement Drawing" on page 73 handy.
Positioning of the two trimmer capacitors (C1 and C27) was
made easier using the picture because the silk screening on
the main board was not clear.

5.  Sanding the black oxide finish off of the heat sink made
me really cringe.  This is a beautifully machined part and
having to put sandpaper on it hurt.  Be careful performing
this operation.  It is not a big deal on the bottom of the
heat sink as it is unseen, except by you.  But on page 42 of
the manual, the sanding will be visible if not done
carefully.  The manual provides this warning.  If nothing
else, keep the black sharpie handy.

I want to thank Gary, the Elecraft tech support go-to guy,
for his help in finding a major operator error.  I would
have bet next month's retirement check that I was seeing a
firmware problem during one of the tests.  An LCD message
was completely different from what the manual was indicating
should be seen.  After a few e-mails, the light bulb finally
came on and I found where I had wired the RF plug backwards.
This is the plug that feeds the K2 RF output to the KPA100.
No wonder I was getting a HI CUR message.  Thanks Gary, and
the invitation is always there.

Eric and Wayne have done a great job on the K2 and all of
its various options.  The KPA100 will be an excellent
addition to my station.

Thanks and 73!

Jay
AJ4AY
Mobile, AL 


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[Bob]

For that application even Radio Shack has 2.  Numbers 275-226 & 275-218.

My local NAPA store also had them in blister packs but I have not 
checked in awhile.
They were a little more in cost than Radio Shack.

A relay in this usage is a mechanical current amplifier.

73,
Bob
K2TK

On 8/21/2010 1:09 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:
> I would think we users are getting to a point where a good, automotive relay
> designed for continuous duty usage would be a good idea here.  Simply use
> the 12v auxilliary power to feed the coil of the relay and let the contacts
> of the relay feed power from our 12v supplies.  I don't remember the stock
> numbers of the parts, but we used these in an oilfield industrial
> application a few years ago and had VERY few failures, and when we did, they
> were readily available local to the unit being used.  They have a multitude
> of mounts so they should be easy to integrate into the shack.  That's the
> route I plan to take, that is if the relay pulls less than 500 mills, hi.
> 73,
> Don, WB5HAK
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Is there a an external signal on the K3 for ANT1/ANT2

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Thank you.  I thought something was in there someplace.  It will be
harder to get this into a computer program and the computer program is
easier to mess up.  The menu entry will be available for anyone's K3
that is in use.  Splendid.

How about getting Opposite ANTx RX OUT to the back panel?

73, Guy.

On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 2:02 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> Guy,
>
> You can use a computer to poll for antenna select status using the "AN;"
> command. This will tell you which TX antenna is in use.
>
> If you don't have a computer in the system, you can use the "DIGOUT1" menu
> entry to obtain an antenna 1/2 indication on the DIGOUT1 pin of the ACC
> connector. DIGOUT1 is configured in the menu, and is per-band/per-antenna.
> For example, on each band you could set it to OFF (floating) for ANT1 and ON
> (0V) for ANT2.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>
>> Questions:
>>
>> I may be looking for something that's right under my nose, but I've
>> been digging and can't find it...
>>
>> ***>>> Is there a way in the various outputs to tell whether the radio
>> is transmitting on ANT1 or ANT2.
>
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[Elecraft] Question

[Phil LaMarche]

Will the K3 and LP-Pan run with Apple?
 
Thanks
 
Phil
 
Philip LaMarche
 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com   
 
727-944-3226
727-937-8834 Fax
727-510-5038 Cell 
 
www.w9dvm.com  
 
K3 #1605
 
CCA 98-00827
CRA 1701
W9DVM
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is there a an external signal on the K3 for ANT1/ANT2

[Wayne Burdick]

Guy,

You can use a computer to poll for antenna select status using the  
"AN;" command. This will tell you which TX antenna is in use.

If you don't have a computer in the system, you can use the "DIGOUT1"  
menu entry to obtain an antenna 1/2 indication on the DIGOUT1 pin of  
the ACC connector. DIGOUT1 is configured in the menu, and is per-band/ 
per-antenna. For example, on each band you could set it to OFF  
(floating) for ANT1 and ON (0V) for ANT2.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

> Questions:
>
> I may be looking for something that's right under my nose, but I've
> been digging and can't find it...
>
> ***>>> Is there a way in the various outputs to tell whether the radio
> is transmitting on ANT1 or ANT2.
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Re: [Elecraft] Is there a an external signal on the K3 for ANT1/ANT2

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

I need a voltage or not to drive switching circuits external to the K3
when using this with amplifiers. It is not a matter of the operator
knowing which one is being used. That, as you say, is adequately
shown.

On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 1:52 PM, ussv dharma  wrote:
> the screen shows ant1 or ant2 as to which antenna is being used
>
>
> If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're 
> headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM USSV 
> DHARMA
>
>
> --- On Sat, 8/21/10, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
>
>> From: Guy Olinger K2AV 
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Is there a an external signal on the K3 for ANT1/ANT2
>> To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
>> Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 7:47 AM
>> Questions:
>>
>> I may be looking for something that's right under my nose,
>> but I've
>> been digging and can't find it...
>>
>> ***>>> Is there a way in the various outputs to
>> tell whether the radio
>> is transmitting on ANT1 or ANT2.  This is an need that
>> is developing
>> out of my very successful use of diversity on 40 through 15
>> during the
>> IOTA contest out on North Carolina's Core Banks.  I am
>> in the process
>> of adding switching to listen in diversity on two
>> transmitting
>> antennas on 40-10, in addition to the more common diversity
>> on two
>> different receive antennas on 80 and 160.
>>
>> During IOTA, the ANT switch put the transmitting antenna of
>> a right
>> angle pair of identical antennas in the left ear, and it
>> was a very
>> easy concept to manage, which others in the group picked up
>> instantly.
>>
>> At home and facing dissimilar antennas and amplifiers I
>> would need the
>> ANT1/ANT2 state exported to throw switches.
>>
>> ***>>> A second question regards where one might
>> place a BNC jack that
>> has the "other" ant RX out jack brought out to the back
>> panel instead
>> of routed directly to the KRX3.  Is there a newer back
>> panel that
>> would support this?
>>
>> Explanation:
>>
>> If one is using diversity for 160 through 10 and has to
>> switch between
>> diverse RX antennas on low bands to listening diversely on
>> TX
>> antennas, the switching choice that now is made at kit
>> build time will
>> have to be made and then unmade as band changes progress
>> during the
>> contest.
>>
>> I know, I know, what planet have you been on, but it WORKED
>> very
>> nicely on Core Banks, particularly on 40 meters.
>>
>> I'm sure many of you have heard that very fast QSB later in
>> the
>> evening on 40 meters that can clip dits out characters and
>> change dahs
>> into dits.  After listening to it all night in the
>> IOTA I am 99%
>> positive that it is caused by rotating polarization, and
>> the drop is
>> when the rotation invokes that 30 dB cross-polarization at
>> 90 degrees
>> off the SINGLE antenna polarization in use at the station.
>> The
>> rotation was commonly around 10-20 seconds but varied
>> wildly and was
>> NOT at the same frequency or angle of rotation on different
>> incoming
>> signals.
>>
>> Simply toggling out of and into diversity mode would
>> respectively
>> toggle between:
>>
>> 1) aforementioned deep QSB, particularly bad on weaker
>> signals with
>> low antennas, and all weak signals in the pileup coming
>> from the
>> center of the headset.
>>
>> and
>>
>> 2) hearing the same signal rotate from one ear to another,
>> most of the
>> time without much of a dip, if the audio in BOTH ears is
>> used for
>> evaluation. The  rotation effect for weak signals
>> calling in a pileup
>> (we were a rare mult), would frequently spread out calling
>> signals
>> left to right in the headset. Different weak signals were
>> not uniform
>> in their cycle phase or timing.  It was notable that
>> this effect was
>> missing from LOUD signals from either EU or US, which
>> tended to be in
>> ONE EAR OR THE OTHER, not both. USA in the SW-NE wire and
>> EU in the
>> SE-NW wire.
>>
>> On high angle signals on 20 and 40 the separation would be
>> not so much
>> direction incoming as polarization in reception.
>>
>> The antenna was an identical pair of 28' on a side inverted
>> vee
>> doublets supported in the center on a 40' push up pole,
>> carefully
>> pulled out at right angles and fed with two 450 lines to a
>> pair of 4:1
>> voltage baluns right at the K3, and using the internal
>> tuner.  The
>> obvious mismatch to the KRX3 was worried about but did not
>> seem to
>> affect reception in any discernable way.  Also the
>> misc power in the
>> not-transmitting antenna while the other was transmitting
>> never once
>> operated the COR.  We had taken pains toward this in
>> the erection of
>> the antenna.  I doubt the low levels would have been
>> true if we had
>> been operating amps instead of barefoot.
>>
>> 73, Guy
>> __
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>

Re: [Elecraft] K3 power-on relay

[Ken Kopp]

Yes Don, I know the type you refer to ... black
cube with flat blade pins.  I have a couple left
over from my 17 VW's. (;-)

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP

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[Elecraft] Is there a an external signal on the K3 for ANT1/ANT2

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Questions:

I may be looking for something that's right under my nose, but I've
been digging and can't find it...

***>>> Is there a way in the various outputs to tell whether the radio
is transmitting on ANT1 or ANT2.  This is an need that is developing
out of my very successful use of diversity on 40 through 15 during the
IOTA contest out on North Carolina's Core Banks.  I am in the process
of adding switching to listen in diversity on two transmitting
antennas on 40-10, in addition to the more common diversity on two
different receive antennas on 80 and 160.

During IOTA, the ANT switch put the transmitting antenna of a right
angle pair of identical antennas in the left ear, and it was a very
easy concept to manage, which others in the group picked up instantly.

At home and facing dissimilar antennas and amplifiers I would need the
ANT1/ANT2 state exported to throw switches.

***>>> A second question regards where one might place a BNC jack that
has the "other" ant RX out jack brought out to the back panel instead
of routed directly to the KRX3.  Is there a newer back panel that
would support this?

Explanation:

If one is using diversity for 160 through 10 and has to switch between
diverse RX antennas on low bands to listening diversely on TX
antennas, the switching choice that now is made at kit build time will
have to be made and then unmade as band changes progress during the
contest.

I know, I know, what planet have you been on, but it WORKED very
nicely on Core Banks, particularly on 40 meters.

I'm sure many of you have heard that very fast QSB later in the
evening on 40 meters that can clip dits out characters and change dahs
into dits.  After listening to it all night in the IOTA I am 99%
positive that it is caused by rotating polarization, and the drop is
when the rotation invokes that 30 dB cross-polarization at 90 degrees
off the SINGLE antenna polarization in use at the station. The
rotation was commonly around 10-20 seconds but varied wildly and was
NOT at the same frequency or angle of rotation on different incoming
signals.

Simply toggling out of and into diversity mode would respectively
toggle between:

1) aforementioned deep QSB, particularly bad on weaker signals with
low antennas, and all weak signals in the pileup coming from the
center of the headset.

and

2) hearing the same signal rotate from one ear to another, most of the
time without much of a dip, if the audio in BOTH ears is used for
evaluation. The  rotation effect for weak signals calling in a pileup
(we were a rare mult), would frequently spread out calling signals
left to right in the headset. Different weak signals were not uniform
in their cycle phase or timing.  It was notable that this effect was
missing from LOUD signals from either EU or US, which tended to be in
ONE EAR OR THE OTHER, not both. USA in the SW-NE wire and EU in the
SE-NW wire.

On high angle signals on 20 and 40 the separation would be not so much
direction incoming as polarization in reception.

The antenna was an identical pair of 28' on a side inverted vee
doublets supported in the center on a 40' push up pole, carefully
pulled out at right angles and fed with two 450 lines to a pair of 4:1
voltage baluns right at the K3, and using the internal tuner.  The
obvious mismatch to the KRX3 was worried about but did not seem to
affect reception in any discernable way.  Also the misc power in the
not-transmitting antenna while the other was transmitting never once
operated the COR.  We had taken pains toward this in the erection of
the antenna.  I doubt the low levels would have been true if we had
been operating amps instead of barefoot.

73, Guy
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power-on relay

[Don Cunningham]

I know of the two way "A" relays, but the ones I am referencing are plug 
ins, have a multitude of mounts for bases and are VERY available even likely 
at WalMart.  I'll get more info when I build mine in if anyone is 
interested, but they are not in a "dusty bin" as they are in your new 
vehicle's fuse box, I wager, hi.
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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[Elecraft] K3 power-on relay

[Ken Kopp]

Long-in-the-tooth two-way shops know them as 
"A" relays,  but they're no longer used.  Maybe a 
shop near you still has some in a dusty bin. (:-)

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Thanks Wayne - just need to make a 'Y' lead now :-)
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
Why should I fear death? If I am, death is not. If death is, I am not. Why
should I fear that which cannot exist when I do?
-Epicurus, philosopher (c. 341-270 BCE)

On 21 Aug 2010, at 17:20, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> Yes. The 12 V aux current should be kept below 500 mA, and the P3+PR6 should 
> be well below this.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> On Aug 21, 2010, at 1:56 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
> 
>> I've seen the postings about providing power from the K3 Aux 12v socket - is 
>> there enough to drive the 6m Pre-amp and the P3?
>> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[Don Cunningham]

I would think we users are getting to a point where a good, automotive relay 
designed for continuous duty usage would be a good idea here.  Simply use 
the 12v auxilliary power to feed the coil of the relay and let the contacts 
of the relay feed power from our 12v supplies.  I don't remember the stock 
numbers of the parts, but we used these in an oilfield industrial 
application a few years ago and had VERY few failures, and when we did, they 
were readily available local to the unit being used.  They have a multitude 
of mounts so they should be easy to integrate into the shack.  That's the 
route I plan to take, that is if the relay pulls less than 500 mills, hi.
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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[Elecraft] VFO B doesn't work

[Ricardo A. Rodrigues]

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[Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[Ken Kopp]

Would it be "safe" to add the W2 to this mix?

K0PP


> Yes. The 12 V aux current should be kept below 500 mA, and the P3+PR6  
> should be well below this.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> On Aug 21, 2010, at 1:56 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
> 
>> I've seen the postings about providing power from the K3 Aux 12v  
>> socket - is there enough to drive the 6m Pre-amp and the P3?
>> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108

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Re: [Elecraft] advice on a rig

[Gary, W7TEA]

Susan, I whole heartedly agree with Toby.  The Omni VII is a fine rig.  If
you're operating CW, the optional filters are a must IMHO.  They act as much
as band pass filters as "distributed roofing filters."  

Have fun, Gary W7TEA

-
73,

Gary W7TEA  K3 #1001
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[Elecraft] P3 - 105

[Terry]

105 up and working - very nicely !
I think this was mentioned previously .. it would be very useful to be 
able to pick a `section` of the band to display without being tied to 
the K3 centre frequency, for instance, if a station was listening `up 10 
to 20` the span could be set to 10kcs and the whole of the `10 to 20 up` 
area viewed, rather than, at present, having to actually set the span to 
40 kcs to view that section, with the lower 20kcs of no interest.

Think that makes sense !

73
Terry
G4AMT
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[Wayne Burdick]

Yes. The 12 V aux current should be kept below 500 mA, and the P3+PR6  
should be well below this.

Wayne
N6KR


On Aug 21, 2010, at 1:56 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

> I've seen the postings about providing power from the K3 Aux 12v  
> socket - is there enough to drive the 6m Pre-amp and the P3?
> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
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[Elecraft] [P-3] Feature request for easier QSY

[kz5d]

Would it be possible to add a menu choice to assign a FN key to cause the K-3 
to QSY to the frequency of  a Marker? By requiring us to use the knob to Tap to 
QSY, it's very easy to move it slightly as you tap it and end up slightly off 
the desired frequency.

It would be much easier, in my opinion, to use the knob to set the desired 
frequency, then Tap FN4 or FN8 to cause the K-3 to QSY.

Otherwise, I'm very pleased with the P-3's performance.

73, 

Art KZ5D



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 : SSB modulation

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

As others noted, the audio equalizer in the K3 allows almost infinite
tweaking of the audio response to fit anyone's preferences. An excellent
starting point is the response curve of the famous Astatic D-104:

http://www.bellscb.com/products/microphones/astatic/base_mics/ASTATIC_D104_S
pecs.html

Using modern, inexpensive electret elements you can assume the mic frequency
response is flat from about 50 Hz to over 15 kHz, so all the shaping will
take place in the K3's equalizer. 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

[Byron KI6NUL]

JayR wrote:
> 
> 
> They sell a $12 "glow in the dark" trim ring and maybe a
>  Dick Tracy decoder ring comes in the same box..
> 
> 

Can't you just see that advertisement in the back of Boy's Life?  Heh.

Byron KI6NUL

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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

David,

Have you measured the strength of the BC carriers in the 6 MHz and 7 MHz 
"bands" after sunset as seen at the shack end of your antenna's feeder when 
terminated ?

If of any use to you I could send you some screen captures using a 1600 kHz 
span after sunset this evening, with the BC carrier levels marked. 7 MHz BC 
carrier levels received here off a 40m dipole under normal conditions 
usually reach + 5 dbm, sometimes a few db higher.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


David Cutter wrote on August 21, 2010 at 1:17 PM:

> Perhaps I should look at protecting the K3 subreceiver from the RPA-1, 
> even
> on receive mode :-(
>
> I seem to recall Wayne saying the rx input could take 2W although not
> recommended !


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Re: [Elecraft] need advice on rig

[ka9zap]

Hi Susan

I would also suggest playing with the RX eq I have serial # 3142 before 
the DSP change and found
that for my taste I liked the RX better if I pulled down the top two 
bands (#7) 2.4 kHz and
(#8) 3.2 kHz to  -5  this takes some of the high end shisssh hiss off 
receiver.
With a couple of (one time)  menu changes  you might find things better 
suited for you listening
pleasure.

If you rig is a later one the DSP board could be the latest one that 
will be better on your ears but if
its the earlier one then I think pulling down top two bands on the RX eq 
just might help you find the
feel / sound your looking for.

If you have K3ez utility loaded on your computer its easy to set the RX 
eq, if not use the [MENU]
tap to get to the main menu settings Page 52 on my manual revision D4.
Rotate the sub VFO B until you see RX EQ then press number the # key you 
want to change with the
VFO A knob setting the new value.
I have both 3.2 & 2.4 pulled down to -5 ...

Hope this makes sense and is something you can try Susan

Here is my subjective opinion I have had for the past 3 years plus a 
FT2000 DMU U-tuning kit
40/80 station, along came the K3  the born on date June 13 09 since 
having the K3 on
the air and doing a lot of A/B testing on RX the only thing I found to 
complain about with the K3
was the (thin) receive audio doing mostly cw this did not make that much 
difference to me. I did
the RX eq adjustment and have only transmitted on the FT2k 4 times all 
total now since the (Born
On Date) of the K3 there simply is no comparison in performance when 
push comes to shove
between these two radios.
Size was going to be an issue before I got my K3 running was my 
(preconceived opinion) but when
I started to play with the K3 size became a (no issue) right off.
After the first 6 months of A/B receive testing I hardly ever turn on my 
twice broke Yaesu on it's
a back up I don't think I will need anytime soon.

The only thing I miss is not having a triple band stacking register like 
the other radios in this class,
size and wait are a trade off and not a bad one at that.
This radio keeps evolving which is a very big plus no need to sell at 
half price to get the next
offering like the big 2 seem to have there customers doing every 2 1/2 
years or so.

Try setting you RX eq and see if this will help you find the sound your 
looking for.

88
Regards
Art
ka9zap

> -Original Message-
> rig
>
> Aloha:
>I have had my K3 since last October.  I think I have given it a fair
> trail.  It is just too darned complicated for me.  I have never been able to
> get it to give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb.
>
> I think I want to get rid of it.
>
> Can anyone advise me of a rig, same price range, for me to purchase?
>
> Susan
>
> If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're
> headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM
> USSV DHARMA 
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

[Pete Smith]

As long as the mood lighting doesn't extend to the back seat maybe a 
drop-down disco ball...

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000


On 8/21/2010 8:29 AM, Paul Huff wrote:
> This thread has probably gone on long enough but I couldn't resist making a
> comment.  The TenTec glow-in-the-dark dial ring reminds me of an option that I
> have on my 2010 Ford Fusion.  It has what is described as "mood lighting."  A
> small band of lights (I assume LEDs) outlines the center console cup holders,
> with a couple more that project down into the floor area around your feet.
> There are about 5 different colors that you can switch between.  The floor
> lights make white tennis shoes look a little strange!  Our salesman tried to
> push this as a big selling feature!  It's all rather silly and my wife and I
> have our "mood lighting" turned off - and that has nothing to do with our age 
> or
> moods!  ;-)
>
> 73,
> Paul - N8XMS
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

[Eric Fitzgerald]

We used a lot of glow sticks on Field Day to mark guy wires, feed lines, popup 
poles, masts and the like.  Gave the site a party atmosphere that was popular 
with the GOTA kids and young hams.  Looked cool if nothing else.

73 de Eric, KG6MZS


On Aug 20, 2010, at 9:13 PM, Ken Kopp wrote:

> 
> AND a glow-in-the-dark tuning knob!!  
> Be still, my beating heart ...
> 
> Why?  For what purpose?  Would be interesting to know.
> 
> 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue #2

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

On the XV432, can you vary the DC voltage measured at TP6 when you 
adjust the Input Attenuator?  TP6 is a built-in RF probe which measures 
the RF voltage at the output of U6.  If you can see that voltage change 
when adjusting the input attenuator, you can use it for peaking the 
bandpass filters.
On the XV222, there is no TP6, but you can use an external RF Probe to 
do the same thing.
If there is no output from U6, try the input.  The first step to your 
troubleshooting is to determine what works, and secondly to discover 
where in the chain of events the failure occurs.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Hoaglun wrote:
> Hi Don & group
>
> I tried using a low pass filter between the K60XV and the 432
> transverter and went thru the tune-up from scratch with similar results.
> I removed the LP filter.
>
> I measured the K60XV out at -3dBM or about 50mW which what I say last
> night as well. I put it on my counter & analyzer and notice that it
> there is something at 18MHz that is about +8-10 dB louder than the 28MHz
> IF.  --Interesting note.
>
> I then tried your second suggestion:  I reconfigured the transverter for
> a high power IF input,  JP3/JP4 2-3, and JP5/JP6 1-2, and the associated
> menu settings.  Using port A on the radio I tried rerunning the
> transverter setup and got similar results.
>
> Common theme: TP5 has almost no reading on it while adjusting R22.
> Adjusting the inductors does not cause a significant change in TP5.  (I
> can see it on the analyzer with a directional coupler on the output but
> it is a TINY signal.)
>
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No power on transmit

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

I think you are in for some Transmit Signal Tracing.  If you do not have 
a 'scope with a 10X probe or an RF Probe already, build up the RF Probe 
included with your K2 kit.
Then turn to Appendix E in the manual and follow the procedure for 
Transmit Signal Tracing.
Note that the steps on page 14, the "expected" values are shown for a 
properly working K2 at 5 watts.  The RF Voltages that you should see 
will be higher - up to the point of the failing stage where it will drop 
lower.  You are looking for that first point where the RF voltage is 
lower than the expected value.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian Denley wrote:
> I have completed the last assembly steps leading to Alignment and Test Part 
> 3 and started the testing.  Everything went OK until I keyed the transmitter 
> (using TUNE) at 2 watts.  The most power I can get on the internal power 
> meter is .5 watts.  I do see the current draw rise to about 0.44 amps (from 
> 0.22).  Adjusting L1,L2 have no effect so there must be a problem in the RF 
> circuit somewhere.  The receiver stil works fine.  I looked at T1-T4 but I 
> don't see anything wrong with the windings.  Anyone know what the most 
> probable causes are to start my troubleshooting phase?  BTW I used a 50 ohm 
> dummy load rated at 50 watts.  I will admit that installing T4 links was 
> extremely difficult due to the closeness of other components.
> Thanks
> Brian Denley
> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

[Paul Huff]

This thread has probably gone on long enough but I couldn't resist making a 
comment.  The TenTec glow-in-the-dark dial ring reminds me of an option that I 
have on my 2010 Ford Fusion.  It has what is described as "mood lighting."  A 
small band of lights (I assume LEDs) outlines the center console cup holders, 
with a couple more that project down into the floor area around your feet. 
There are about 5 different colors that you can switch between.  The floor 
lights make white tennis shoes look a little strange!  Our salesman tried to 
push this as a big selling feature!  It's all rather silly and my wife and I 
have our "mood lighting" turned off - and that has nothing to do with our age 
or 
moods!  ;-)

73,
Paul - N8XMS



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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[David Cutter]

Thanks Phil, you have a great site and I've often referred to it, as I do 
the W8JI site.

73

David
G3UNA


> "...I would suggest that you consider using a Reed relay or similar fast
> acting relay to short circuit the external preamp's input during transmit
> periods..."
>
> Take a look at the Omron signal relay, Mouser part number
> 653-G6A-274P40-DC12.  These relays operate in 3ms typical, 5ms max.  I use
> them in my ALS-600 QSK conversion and they work great.
>
> Phil - AD5X
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[David Cutter]

Perhaps I should look at protecting the K3 subreceiver from the RPA-1, even 
on receive mode :-(

I seem to recall Wayne saying the rx input could take 2W although not 
recommended !

73

David
G3UNA
>
> The RPA can output well over 1/2 watt, so don't expect it to act like a 
> limiter. It makes a good QRP transmitter.
>
> 73 Tom 

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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[Tom W8JI]

> If you are planning to use closely spaced Tx and Rx antennas, I would
> suggest that you consider using a Reed relay or similar "fast acting" 
> relay
> to short circuit the external preamp's input during transmit periods.

So long as the relay is accuated before RF appears, and held until after RF 
goes away.

> Of course if diodes are used for protection instead of a relay, the diodes
> could generate Tx harmonics which are then radiated by the Rx antenna.

Worse yet diodes destroy dynamic range. A typical switching silicon diode or 
fast rectifier starts to conduct at about 2.5 dBm, and that can be from an 
accumulation of many signals...even out of Ham bands. It takes special 
circuitry to not reduce dynamic range with diodes.

<>

It wasn't planned to do that. The relay would be held up by a capacitor as 
it discharges, but it could be modified.

<>

The RPA can output well over 1/2 watt, so don't expect it to act like a 
limiter. It makes a good QRP transmitter.

73 Tom 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

[juergen]

Hi Jay

They have time to develop mickey mouse products and yet they dont have the time 
and resources to write decent firmware for the Orion! 

Ten Tec have lost sight of their obligations to the many Orion owners whose 
radios are full of firmware bugs. If it sounds like sour grapes it is in 
regards to the Orion for me.

At least Elecraft have their firmware under control and dont need Halloween 
trinkets to distract customers from their failings.

73
John


--- On Sat, 8/21/10, Jay  wrote:

> From: Jay 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy
> To: "'DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL'" , "'Elecraft Reflector'" 
> 
> Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 3:36 AM
> Doug
> 
> They have not lost sight of their original mission.
> 
> They sell a $12 "glow in the dark" trim ring and maybe a
>  Dick Tracy decoder ring comes in the same box..
> 
> 73
> 
> Jay
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
> On Behalf Of DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:49 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy
> 
> 1.  When I was a kid (a long time ago), TenTec was
> known as the CW
> man's radio.
> 2.  As tubes faded away, the lament often heard was
> "real radios glow
> in the dark."
> 
> Well, check out tentec.com
> 
> 1.  They now say, "The SSB Company"  
> 
> 2.  You won't believe their approach to "glow in the
> dark" radios.
> Wonder how Elecraft will face this unique approach
> 
> I guess you can never tell what marketing approach will
> work.  :-)
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> de Doug KR2Q
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> 


  
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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[Phil & Debbie Salas]

"...I would suggest that you consider using a Reed relay or similar fast 
acting relay to short circuit the external preamp's input during transmit 
periods..."

Take a look at the Omron signal relay, Mouser part number 
653-G6A-274P40-DC12.  These relays operate in 3ms typical, 5ms max.  I use 
them in my ALS-600 QSK conversion and they work great.

Phil - AD5X 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3][XV144][K144XV] Considering Sale of XV144 to replace with K144XV, need advice.

[AD6XY]

You could sell it to me

But there are advantages in an external transverter. In my case I am
thinking of putting it and my 70 MHz (XV70) transverter a long way away from
the radio, to overcome long coax losses. Cable loss at 28MHz is not a
problem for my 30m run as there is more than enough drive and gain. The only
problem with this is the auxbus to select between the transverters and
operate the PTTs will not go 30m.

The K144XV has several faults. Itdoes not have a PTT output to drive a
linear - a mistake that should have been easily avoided by consulting the
community. The promised microwave compatible transverter output was not
implemented either. I think if the K144XV had included a PTT output I would
still have bought it just for convenience. If it had had the 144MHz
transverter ports it would probably be an even bigger seller.
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-XV144-K144XV-Considering-Sale-of-XV144-to-replace-with-K144XV-need-advice-tp5436851p5447315.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

[Jay]

Doug

They have not lost sight of their original mission.

They sell a $12 "glow in the dark" trim ring and maybe a
 Dick Tracy decoder ring comes in the same box..

73

Jay

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:49 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

1.  When I was a kid (a long time ago), TenTec was known as the CW
man's radio.
2.  As tubes faded away, the lament often heard was "real radios glow
in the dark."

Well, check out tentec.com

1.  They now say, "The SSB Company"  

2.  You won't believe their approach to "glow in the dark" radios.
Wonder how Elecraft will face this unique approach

I guess you can never tell what marketing approach will work.  :-)

Enjoy

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] test

[Mike]

  Welcome, Karl.

It's a lively group.

73, Mike NF4L

On 8/21/2010 4:13 AM, Karl Ahamer wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> just joined the list.
>
>
>
> vy 73'
>
>
>
> Karl VK2GKA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[David Cutter]

Hi Geoff

I did consider that and I get your point about the diode protection, I've 
had first hand experience !  To reduce my bench time creating my own 
amplifier and such like I was looking into using the RPA-1 from 
DXEngineering which has an automatic bypass mode.  I don't know if it will 
cope with QSK, but as a first stop that's what is in my mind to buy.  It 
would be easy enough to put a high speed relay on the same line, as you say 
to short the amplifier input if needed.  I think the spec says the RPA 
handles 30dBm signals as normal, so I'm thinking it will prevent damaging 
signals getting to the rx input.  I'll be doing some measurements to verify 
what's going on.  I think it might be worth an email to DXE for advice.

73
David
G3UNA

> If you are planning to use closely spaced Tx and Rx antennas, I would 
> suggest that you consider using a Reed relay or similar "fast acting" 
> relay to short circuit the external preamp's input during transmit 
> periods. Without it there is some risk that during transmit periods the 
> external Rx preamp's input device could be damaged, even if the preamp's 
> DC supply is turned off while transmitting.
>
> Of course if diodes are used for protection instead of a relay, the diodes 
> could generate Tx harmonics which are then radiated by the Rx antenna.
>
> 73,
>
> Geoff
> GM4ESD
>
> David Cutter write on Saturday, August 21, 2010 at 8:07 AM:
>
>> I'm thinking this might also act as a gate to prevent excessive rf 
>> getting
>> into the K3 2nd rx.  I'm planning to have a horizontal receive antenna
>> located adjacent to my vertical transmit antenna for diversity reception. 
>> I
>> was just investigating the ICE196, but this idea might be better.
>
>
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

If you are planning to use closely spaced Tx and Rx antennas, I would 
suggest that you consider using a Reed relay or similar "fast acting" relay 
to short circuit the external preamp's input during transmit periods. 
Without it there is some risk that during transmit periods the external Rx 
preamp's input device could be damaged, even if the preamp's DC supply is 
turned off while transmitting.

Of course if diodes are used for protection instead of a relay, the diodes 
could generate Tx harmonics which are then radiated by the Rx antenna.

73,

Geoff
GM4ESD

David Cutter write on Saturday, August 21, 2010 at 8:07 AM:

> I'm thinking this might also act as a gate to prevent excessive rf getting
> into the K3 2nd rx.  I'm planning to have a horizontal receive antenna
> located adjacent to my vertical transmit antenna for diversity reception. 
> I
> was just investigating the ICE196, but this idea might be better.



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[Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I've seen the postings about providing power from the K3 Aux 12v socket - is 
there enough to drive the 6m Pre-amp and the P3?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
Don't say you don't have enough time. You have exactly the same number of
hours per day that were given to Helen Keller, Pasteur, Michaelangelo,
Mother Teresa, Leonardo da Vinci, Thomas Jefferson, and Albert Einstein.
-H. Jackson Brown, Jr., writer

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[Elecraft] test

[Karl Ahamer]

Hi all,

just joined the list.

 

vy 73'

 

Karl VK2GKA

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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Preamps and the K3 12v Accessory Jack

[David Cutter]

I'm thinking this might also act as a gate to prevent excessive rf getting 
into the K3 2nd rx.  I'm planning to have a horizontal receive antenna 
located adjacent to my vertical transmit antenna for diversity reception.  I 
was just investigating the ICE196, but this idea might be better.

David
G3UNA


> Hi Rich,
>
> You could control 12 V to an external RX antenna or preamp using the
> KEY OUT signal pretty easily. This signal "floats" (open, or hi-Z)
> during receive, and goes to 0 V (ground) during transmit. The timing
> is perfect for such an application, because there's a delay between
> activation of KEY OUT and actual RF output.
>
> The KEY OUT signal would have to be buffered to create a "12 V on RX/0
> V on TX" signal capable of powering the external device. An
> alternative would be to use the signal to directly control an enable
> line on the device, if available and of the correct polarity.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Aug 20, 2010, at 8:58 PM, K3RWN wrote:
>
>> I had a thought for a future feature request.  For those of us who
>> use RX
>> antennas (active and/or preamp).  It would be really cool if the 12v
>> output
>> on the K3 could be triggered by the PTT.  If the 12v output jack
>> could be
>> set in the menus to 0v (OFF) on PTT we could power our preamps via
>> that jack
>> and kill the power on TX.  The K3 already has a built in delay for
>> RF output
>> to amplifiers which can be set in "ms" as needed.  Most modern
>> preamps go to
>> ground when power is removed.  This would be nice but I would assume
>> that
>> the 12v output is not under control of the firmware.  Just a thought
>> for
>> future expansion.
>
> 
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