Re: [Elecraft] K3 with CM500 headset

[Gary VK4FD]

Richard,

Not necessaryily so...the CM-500 does accentuate the lows rather nicely BUT 
when sigs are down, atmospherics rise...it does help to drop the low end 
response. Tweaking the highs up also helps.

IF you have near perfect hearing, flat on the RX EQ works OK so I am told by 
someone bragging he has great ears:-)


Gary


VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mike 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 10:15 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 with CM500 headset


  Richard -

  Since no one else has your ears, their settings are pretty much useless to 
you. 
  Adjust til you get what you like.

  73, Mike NF4L

  On 12/9/2011 4:32 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
  > I'd like some help from K3 folks using a CM500 headset with setting the 
RECEIVE Eq.
  > How can I use this to an advantage?
  >
  > Thanks,
  >
  > Richard Fjeld, n0ce
  > rpfj...@embarqmail.com
  > E=IR, it's the law.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

[FredJensen]

Every engineering new grad wants to be the Design Engineer, never 
knowing how complex and demanding Product Engineering can be.  Nearly 50 
email list posts leads to 1/16" change in screw length.  I'd be amazed 
and stunned, except I've seen it so many times.   Count up all the parts 
in your radio, multiply by all the possible dimensions that could 
matter, and then multiply by all the possible values for those 
dimensions [or reverse the order, multiplication is commutative], and 
only those who truly understand the magnitude of the National debt can 
understand a number that large.  And no, I am not a Product Engineer, 
nor do I play one on TV.  I just have a huge respect for them.  When was 
the last Nobel awarded to one?

I am amazed that the "Early Elecraft" decided to offer kits, and has 
succeeded so well, given all those like me who, given a technological 
challenge, cannot fail to screw it up, or so it seems.

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA
KX1, K2, K3,KPA100, P3, and misc other stuff

On 12/10/2011 4:06 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> The Z bracket should be secure and tight against the side of the heat sink.
> My KPA500 has 5/16" screws and they tighten the Z-bracket so it does not
> move. More recently there have been comments that the 5/16" screws are too
> long, and the length of those screws has now been reduced to 1/4" to ensure
> they don't "bottom out" against the threaded hole in the heat sink before
> they are tight.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The Z bracket should be secure and tight against the side of the heat sink.
My KPA500 has 5/16" screws and they tighten the Z-bracket so it does not
move. More recently there have been comments that the 5/16" screws are too
long, and the length of those screws has now been reduced to 1/4" to ensure
they don't "bottom out" against the threaded hole in the heat sink before
they are tight.

I don't know how many kits went out with screws that didn't properly
tighten, but if you are right that would explain it suddenly showing up now.


Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

I think I may have solved this problem. One of the other posts mentions that
the Z-bracket screws are too long and you don't get a tight fit. I changed
the five screws from 5/16" to 3/16" and did notice a better grip between the
bracket and the PA assembly. I have run it all evening and haven't heard a
click or a pop. I even ran the temp up and still nothing. Will it last? I
don't know, but it seems to have fixed it. The guy who suggested this has
submitted it to Elecraft for a change. Good luck and lets hear if any of you
have the same result.


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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Gents, the bottom line is to remember that the Bird is a 50+ year old
instrument with 50+ year old technology (I used a Model 43 Bird servicing
radios at Lockheed while in college in the mid 1950's - the same instrument
many Hams covet today). 

There is nothing "magic" about the Bird. It was *great* in 1950 but it's
simply not as good or no better than many wattmeters on the market today
using modern technology, even when it's freshly calibrated. And the quickest
way to screw up the calibration is to bang the slugs around in a box. Those
robust "hardware"-looking slugs are the most sensitive part of the
instrument. In the original Birds, they traveled in a well padded enclosure
with a little well for each slug (and the meter has two wells for additional
slugs). Even so they were recalibrated *every year* to maintain accuracy. 

But very precise power measurements are simply not important when looking at
transmitter outputs, etc. (Unless you are trying to get the FCC engineer to
recertify a transmitter, which I did several times a week on ships in the
early 1990's. In that case, HIS Bird is what counts, nothing else, Hi!). 

For lower levels, such as 5 watts or less, the oscilloscope or peak reading
voltmeter monitoring the RF voltage across an accurate dummy load is the
best way to make more precise measurements. 

The Elecraft DL1 20-watt dummy load includes a peak reading RF detector that
works with your DMM perfect for this. If you want to "roll our own" download
the DL1 manual. It has the schematic of the peak reading detector and the
formula to use to convert the readings into watts. 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

On 12/9/2011 6:09 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>
>>If it is an automatic antenna tuner, that is less of a problem.
> Except that the automatic circuitry, and it's power supply must also be
> isolated from ground. That part of the design problem seems non-trivial.
>

Seems fairly simple to me, use a transformer in the PS, and float the 
secondary side...

73, Ross N4RP

-- 
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

[Johnny]

Thank, Eric.  I really like your customer service. 73 Johnny vr2xmc

Sent from my  iPhone 4

"Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft"  於 2011年12月10日 上午9:33 寫道：

> Hi Mike,
> 
> We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
> 
> We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw 
> for the external screws since we started the company with the K2. These 
> are the same type of screw used by Alpha amps and a number of other ham 
> manufacturers.( I just got off the phone earlier today with Alpha 
> confirming this.)
> 
> While receiving occasional reports of rust from tropical and extremely 
> humid areas, most users have not reported any problems. As an example, I 
> live 1 mile from the ocean here in CA, and the screws on my 12+ year old 
> K2, my K3, KX1, K1 etc are all pristine. We created the K3 SS screwkit 
> for the K3 as a special kit for dxpeditioners etc who were operating in 
> extreme conditions. It consists of all of the exterior screws on the K3 
> (not just the 4-40 x 3/16 screws) and was bought by us in low volumes, 
> hence the higher price. We're probably breaking even on these after 
> kitting, order entry etc. We're certainly not getting rich selling the 
> SS screw kits. :-)
> 
> Also, the rust seen on extreme dxpeditions was restricted just to the 
> exterior screws. We haven't seen any serious corrosion with the interior 
> screws.
> 
> That said, the screw corrosion thread here has prompted us to revisit 
> this and to look at phasing in SS screws across the whole product line. 
> It is certainly happening in more cases than we, our you, would like to 
> see. We are actively looking at sources right now and I'll report back 
> to the list as we get something defined, both for new kits and for mod 
> kits to existing rigs. This is a pretty big project to change it all 
> over. We'll make sure to keep the cost on the SS screw mod kits very 
> low. Our goal is to make sure there is nothing standing in the way of 
> the K2, and or other products, being perceived as high quality products.
> 
> Also, in the near term, we'll replace any of the existing exterior 
> screws with the same type at no cost for corrosion. Just email 
> pa...@elecraft.com and let them know which screws you need and the qty etc.
> 
> 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
> 
> www.elecraft.com
> 
> 
> On 12/9/2011 7:14 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover screws.
>> 
>> They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.
>> 
>> The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit
>> not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.
>> 
>> Mike W0MU
>> 
>> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>> 
>> 
>> On 12/9/2011 5:28 AM, Phil&  Debbie Salas wrote:
>>> FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster Carr.
>>> Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and KPA500.
>>> 
>>> Phil - AD5X
>>> 
>>> __
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>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

[KD2A]

I think I may have solved this problem. One of the other posts mentions that
the Z-bracket screws are too long and you don't get a tight fit. I changed
the five screws from 5/16" to 3/16" and did notice a better grip between the
bracket and the PA assembly. I have run it all evening and haven't heard a
click or a pop. I even ran the temp up and still nothing. Will it last? I
don't know, but it seems to have fixed it. The guy who suggested this has
submitted it to Elecraft for a change. Good luck and lets hear if any of you
have the same result.

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Heat-Expansion-Pop-tp7075132p7080493.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] 25% of Lulu coupon for KE7X book

[Cady, Fred]

25% off coupon good until 23:59 on December 14. COUNTDOWN305
73,
Fred


Fred
fcady at ieee dot org
"The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration, and Operation"
www.ke7x.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

Errr Thanks Eric!

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/9/2011 6:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
>
> We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw 
> for the external screws since we started the company with the K2. 
> These are the same type of screw used by Alpha amps and a number of 
> other ham manufacturers.( I just got off the phone earlier today with 
> Alpha confirming this.)
>
> While receiving occasional reports of rust from tropical and extremely 
> humid areas, most users have not reported any problems. As an example, 
> I live 1 mile from the ocean here in CA, and the screws on my 12+ year 
> old K2, my K3, KX1, K1 etc are all pristine. We created the K3 SS 
> screwkit for the K3 as a special kit for dxpeditioners etc who were 
> operating in extreme conditions. It consists of all of the exterior 
> screws on the K3 (not just the 4-40 x 3/16 screws) and was bought by 
> us in low volumes, hence the higher price. We're probably breaking 
> even on these after kitting, order entry etc. We're certainly not 
> getting rich selling the SS screw kits. :-)
>
> Also, the rust seen on extreme dxpeditions was restricted just to the 
> exterior screws. We haven't seen any serious corrosion with the 
> interior screws.
>
> That said, the screw corrosion thread here has prompted us to revisit 
> this and to look at phasing in SS screws across the whole product 
> line. It is certainly happening in more cases than we, our you, would 
> like to see. We are actively looking at sources right now and I'll 
> report back to the list as we get something defined, both for new kits 
> and for mod kits to existing rigs. This is a pretty big project to 
> change it all over. We'll make sure to keep the cost on the SS screw 
> mod kits very low. Our goal is to make sure there is nothing standing 
> in the way of the K2, and or other products, being perceived as high 
> quality products.
>
> Also, in the near term, we'll replace any of the existing exterior 
> screws with the same type at no cost for corrosion. Just email 
> pa...@elecraft.com and let them know which screws you need and the qty 
> etc.
>
> 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
>
> www.elecraft.com
>
>
> On 12/9/2011 7:14 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
>> Thanks.
>>
>> I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover 
>> screws.
>>
>> They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.
>>
>> The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit
>> not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.
>>
>> Mike W0MU
>>
>> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>>
>>
>> On 12/9/2011 5:28 AM, Phil&  Debbie Salas wrote:
>>> FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster 
>>> Carr.
>>> Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and 
>>> KPA500.
>>>
>>> Phil - AD5X
>>>
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

[Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF]

Another reason why I love Elecraft products!
The willingness to go that little bit extra for their customers, thanks 
Eric.
(And I'll grab a SS kit for my amplifier and my P3 when they're ready 
thanks) :)

73 de
Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
K3 #4257, P3#1629, KPA-500 #161

- Original Message - 
From: "Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft" 
To: "W0MU Mike Fatchett" 
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws


> Hi Mike,
>
> We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
>
> We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw
> for the external screws since we started the company with the K2. These
> are the same type of screw used by Alpha amps and a number of other ham
> manufacturers.( I just got off the phone earlier today with Alpha
> confirming this.)
>
> While receiving occasional reports of rust from tropical and extremely
> humid areas, most users have not reported any problems. As an example, I
> live 1 mile from the ocean here in CA, and the screws on my 12+ year old
> K2, my K3, KX1, K1 etc are all pristine. We created the K3 SS screwkit
> for the K3 as a special kit for dxpeditioners etc who were operating in
> extreme conditions. It consists of all of the exterior screws on the K3
> (not just the 4-40 x 3/16 screws) and was bought by us in low volumes,
> hence the higher price. We're probably breaking even on these after
> kitting, order entry etc. We're certainly not getting rich selling the
> SS screw kits. :-)
>
> Also, the rust seen on extreme dxpeditions was restricted just to the
> exterior screws. We haven't seen any serious corrosion with the interior
> screws.
>
> That said, the screw corrosion thread here has prompted us to revisit
> this and to look at phasing in SS screws across the whole product line.
> It is certainly happening in more cases than we, our you, would like to
> see. We are actively looking at sources right now and I'll report back
> to the list as we get something defined, both for new kits and for mod
> kits to existing rigs. This is a pretty big project to change it all
> over. We'll make sure to keep the cost on the SS screw mod kits very
> low. Our goal is to make sure there is nothing standing in the way of
> the K2, and or other products, being perceived as high quality products.
>
> Also, in the near term, we'll replace any of the existing exterior
> screws with the same type at no cost for corrosion. Just email
> pa...@elecraft.com and let them know which screws you need and the qty 
> etc.
>
> 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
>
> www.elecraft.com
>
>
> On 12/9/2011 7:14 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
>> Thanks.
>>
>> I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover 
>> screws.
>>
>> They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.
>>
>> The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit
>> not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.
>>
>> Mike W0MU
>>
>> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>>
>>
>> On 12/9/2011 5:28 AM, Phil&  Debbie Salas wrote:
>>> FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster 
>>> Carr.
>>> Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and 
>>> KPA500.
>>>
>>> Phil - AD5X
>>>
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Don Wilhelm]

Sorry I hit Send too soon --,the 5% error with a 250 watt slug is 12.5 
watts - if the wattmeter has been recently calibrtrated.  So a reading 
of 25 watts can have an actual; power between 12.5 and 37.5 watts!  This 
is with one of the most highly respected wattmeters -- when the power is 
lower than 50 watts, you can do better with simple measurement tools.
0
I prefer using the RF voltage developed across a 1% 50 ohm dummy load to 
give me a more accurate power reading than any analog power meter I have 
found.

Please take my comments in context - they are limited to a 50 ohm 
environment and are quite dependent on the precision of the dummy load.  
If I want an approximation, I will use the words provided by my word 
processor, but if I want to be exact, I will use the dictionary

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/9/2011 8:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Mike. but 5% of full scale for a 100 watt slug is 5 watts.  That is
> exactly the point being made.  The error is a percentage of the Full
> scale reading, and not a percentage of the actual reading.
>
> A 250 watt slug can have an error of 37.5 watts - whether the power
> reading is at 10  watts or 50 watts
>al that can be concluded it that there is some power output - the
> number displayed by the meter cannot be relied on if the power is
> significantly lower than the power ratting of the slug .
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/9/2011 7:11 PM, Mike wrote:
>> 5% of 50 watts is not 5 watts.
>>
>> 73, Mike
>>
>> On 12/9/2011 10:32 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
>>> **full scale** rating according to Bird.  Full scale
>>> rating, is the rating on the slug.
>>>
>>> That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
>>> accuracy is +/- 5W (5%).   So, if your wattmeter is reading
>>> 50W, the actual RF power could actually be 45 or 55 W
>>>
>>> 73
>>> K1NR
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:08:55 -0500
>>> Mikewrote:
 Wait.

 Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the
 real power would be between
 95 and 105 watts, right?
 If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would
 fall in a range of less than 45
 to 55 watts?

 Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did
 I misunderstand what you said?

 73, Mike NF4L


 On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of
 the
> full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5
 Watts.
>   So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0
 registered
> on the meter, the meter is still within its rated
 accuracy.
> Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter
 scale
> end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
> would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
> meter range, which means that one would want a 10W
 slug.
>  Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W
 HF
> slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
>
> 73
> K1NR
>
>
> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
>  Nate Bargmann wrote:
>>>  From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
>> element leads to
>> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate
 when
>> the reading is
>> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
>> element (is that
>> even available?) would be ideal provided no more than
 5W
>> is put through
>> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
>> provide a safety
>> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have
 both
>> elements and
>> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one
 for
>> a final check.
>>
>> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of
 all
>> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
>>
>> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
>>
>>> __
 Elecraft mailing list
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 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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 http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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>>> http://www.nni.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

Wayne,

Thanks!  Elecraft comes through again!

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/9/2011 6:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
>
> We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw 
> for the external screws since we started the company with the K2. 
> These are the same type of screw used by Alpha amps and a number of 
> other ham manufacturers.( I just got off the phone earlier today with 
> Alpha confirming this.)
>
> While receiving occasional reports of rust from tropical and extremely 
> humid areas, most users have not reported any problems. As an example, 
> I live 1 mile from the ocean here in CA, and the screws on my 12+ year 
> old K2, my K3, KX1, K1 etc are all pristine. We created the K3 SS 
> screwkit for the K3 as a special kit for dxpeditioners etc who were 
> operating in extreme conditions. It consists of all of the exterior 
> screws on the K3 (not just the 4-40 x 3/16 screws) and was bought by 
> us in low volumes, hence the higher price. We're probably breaking 
> even on these after kitting, order entry etc. We're certainly not 
> getting rich selling the SS screw kits. :-)
>
> Also, the rust seen on extreme dxpeditions was restricted just to the 
> exterior screws. We haven't seen any serious corrosion with the 
> interior screws.
>
> That said, the screw corrosion thread here has prompted us to revisit 
> this and to look at phasing in SS screws across the whole product 
> line. It is certainly happening in more cases than we, our you, would 
> like to see. We are actively looking at sources right now and I'll 
> report back to the list as we get something defined, both for new kits 
> and for mod kits to existing rigs. This is a pretty big project to 
> change it all over. We'll make sure to keep the cost on the SS screw 
> mod kits very low. Our goal is to make sure there is nothing standing 
> in the way of the K2, and or other products, being perceived as high 
> quality products.
>
> Also, in the near term, we'll replace any of the existing exterior 
> screws with the same type at no cost for corrosion. Just email 
> pa...@elecraft.com and let them know which screws you need and the qty 
> etc.
>
> 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
>
> www.elecraft.com
>
>
> On 12/9/2011 7:14 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
>> Thanks.
>>
>> I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover 
>> screws.
>>
>> They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.
>>
>> The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit
>> not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.
>>
>> Mike W0MU
>>
>> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>>
>>
>> On 12/9/2011 5:28 AM, Phil&  Debbie Salas wrote:
>>> FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster 
>>> Carr.
>>> Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and 
>>> KPA500.
>>>
>>> Phil - AD5X
>>>
>>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Assembly Question

[Jim Bennett]

Sorry about this, guys - this post went out days and days ago - why it is just 
now showing up is beyond me.. AND, the problem is fixed.

On   Saturday, Dec 3, 2011, at  Saturday, 1:31 AM, Jim Bennett wrote:

> I Just started assembling my KPA500 serial number 0585 this evening. All was 
> going OK until I got to the point where I mount the Z-bracket to the PA/LPF 
> heat sink. The book sez to use 4-40 5/16" black flat head screws. Using this 
> size screw does NOT pull the Z-bracket tight against the heat sink. I've 
> measured these screws three times and I am certain I'm using 5/16" screws. If 
> I use a 3/16" screw, it works fine. Also, I have verified that I've 
> positioned the PA/LPF properly. So, is the documentation wrong, or is this 
> Z-bracket supposed to be wobbly and not tight against the heat sink?
> 
> Thanks, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi Mike,

We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.

We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw 
for the external screws since we started the company with the K2. These 
are the same type of screw used by Alpha amps and a number of other ham 
manufacturers.( I just got off the phone earlier today with Alpha 
confirming this.)

While receiving occasional reports of rust from tropical and extremely 
humid areas, most users have not reported any problems. As an example, I 
live 1 mile from the ocean here in CA, and the screws on my 12+ year old 
K2, my K3, KX1, K1 etc are all pristine. We created the K3 SS screwkit 
for the K3 as a special kit for dxpeditioners etc who were operating in 
extreme conditions. It consists of all of the exterior screws on the K3 
(not just the 4-40 x 3/16 screws) and was bought by us in low volumes, 
hence the higher price. We're probably breaking even on these after 
kitting, order entry etc. We're certainly not getting rich selling the 
SS screw kits. :-)

Also, the rust seen on extreme dxpeditions was restricted just to the 
exterior screws. We haven't seen any serious corrosion with the interior 
screws.

That said, the screw corrosion thread here has prompted us to revisit 
this and to look at phasing in SS screws across the whole product line. 
It is certainly happening in more cases than we, our you, would like to 
see. We are actively looking at sources right now and I'll report back 
to the list as we get something defined, both for new kits and for mod 
kits to existing rigs. This is a pretty big project to change it all 
over. We'll make sure to keep the cost on the SS screw mod kits very 
low. Our goal is to make sure there is nothing standing in the way of 
the K2, and or other products, being perceived as high quality products.

Also, in the near term, we'll replace any of the existing exterior 
screws with the same type at no cost for corrosion. Just email 
pa...@elecraft.com and let them know which screws you need and the qty etc.

73, Eric   WA6HHQ

www.elecraft.com


On 12/9/2011 7:14 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
> Thanks.
>
> I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover screws.
>
> They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.
>
> The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit
> not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.
>
> Mike W0MU
>
> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>
>
> On 12/9/2011 5:28 AM, Phil&  Debbie Salas wrote:
>> FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster Carr.
>> Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and KPA500.
>>
>> Phil - AD5X
>>
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike. but 5% of full scale for a 100 watt slug is 5 watts.  That is 
exactly the point being made.  The error is a percentage of the Full 
scale reading, and not a percentage of the actual reading.

A 250 watt slug can have an error of 37.5 watts - whether the power 
reading is at 10  watts or 50 watts
  al that can be concluded it that there is some power output - the 
number displayed by the meter cannot be relied on if the power is 
significantly lower than the power ratting of the slug .

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/9/2011 7:11 PM, Mike wrote:
> 5% of 50 watts is not 5 watts.
>
> 73, Mike
>
> On 12/9/2011 10:32 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
>>>  From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
>> **full scale** rating according to Bird.  Full scale
>> rating, is the rating on the slug.
>>
>> That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
>> accuracy is +/- 5W (5%).   So, if your wattmeter is reading
>> 50W, the actual RF power could actually be 45 or 55 W
>>
>> 73
>> K1NR
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:08:55 -0500
>>Mike   wrote:
>>> Wait.
>>>
>>> Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the
>>> real power would be between
>>> 95 and 105 watts, right?
>>> If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would
>>> fall in a range of less than 45
>>> to 55 watts?
>>>
>>> Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did
>>> I misunderstand what you said?
>>>
>>> 73, Mike NF4L
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
 The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of
>>> the
 full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5
>>> Watts.
  So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0
>>> registered
 on the meter, the meter is still within its rated
>>> accuracy.
 Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter
>>> scale
 end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
 would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
 meter range, which means that one would want a 10W
>>> slug.
 Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W
>>>HF
 slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??

 73
 K1NR


 On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
 Nate Bargmannwrote:
>>From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
> element leads to
> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate
>>> when
> the reading is
> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
> element (is that
> even available?) would be ideal provided no more than
>>> 5W
> is put through
> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
> provide a safety
> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have
>>> both
> elements and
> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one
>>> for
> a final check.
>
> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
>
> -- 
>
> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of
>>> all
> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
>
> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
>
>>>
>> __
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>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>> http://www.nni.com/
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KXAT3 versus T1 ?

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Phil,

The KXAT3 has a few advantages over the T1 when used with the KX3:

- wider matching range (16 network elements vs. 14)

- nothing extra to carry

- well-integrated with the radio (for example, you can use the menu to
   see what the ATU settings are, test the relays manually, etc.)

- automatically recalls settings per-band and per-segment within each  
band

- switchable low-pass filter components that optimize receive
   performance when you're listening in the AM broadcast band

Of course the T1 is very small, and would be a good choice if you had  
multiple rigs you wanted to use it with. It runs from a 9-V battery  
and draws no current during normal operation.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 9, 2011, at 4:53 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

> The new forthcoming KX3 includes an optional 20-watt automatic tuner  
> called the KXAT3.  Question:  is this the same as or better than the  
> T1 20-watt auto-tuner?  Are there clear advantages to owning the  
> KXAT3 versus maybe using the T1 for portable/field QRP operations.
>
> Thanks,
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
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[Elecraft] [KX3] KXAT3 versus T1 ?

[Phil Hystad]

The new forthcoming KX3 includes an optional 20-watt automatic tuner called the 
KXAT3.  Question:  is this the same as or better than the T1 20-watt 
auto-tuner?  Are there clear advantages to owning the KXAT3 versus maybe using 
the T1 for portable/field QRP operations.

Thanks,

73, phil, K7PEH
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting Screws

[Bill K9YEQ]

Tony,

Great point...  Stainless vs. aluminum?   Unless you have a need based on
use... I would stick with the supplied "softer" screws to avoid unnecessary
wear when removing and re-installing.  My standard screws on K2, KX1 and K3
are doing just super, no rust. I did FT on both the K2 and KX1 and I cannot
tell you how many times I removed the case. Stainless is not very forgiving
with other materials.  The D connectors Elecraft uses are aluminum... easily
replaced.  But if you stay with the provided screws there should be little
issue.  I have no need for stainless at this point, but would consider a set
with the KX3 if I use in the car... we do have plenty of salt in the
atmosphere during the winter.  Just look at the rust damage to exposed soft
metal.

 I don't have salt in my atmosphere in the shack, but I do have some heavy
humidity during the summer.  I live just West of Lake Michigan and just east
of Green Bay.  Normal humidity is 40-60%.  

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-


On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 12:35 PM, K7WIA  wrote:
> If I had a problem with the screws rusting, I would be replacing mine 
> with this.
>
> http://www.fastener-express.com/button-socket-screws-black-anodized-al
> uminum.aspx
>

They are neat-looking, but don't tighten 'em too much. It's oh-so-easy to
strip out that little hex recess, as I have found to my sorrow.

Tony KT0NY


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with CM500 headset

[Mike]

Richard -

Since no one else has your ears, their settings are pretty much useless to you. 
Adjust til you get what you like.

73, Mike NF4L

On 12/9/2011 4:32 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> I'd like some help from K3 folks using a CM500 headset with setting the 
> RECEIVE Eq.
> How can I use this to an advantage?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Richard Fjeld, n0ce
> rpfj...@embarqmail.com
> E=IR, it's the law.
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Mike]

5% of 50 watts is not 5 watts.

73, Mike

On 12/9/2011 10:32 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> > From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
> **full scale** rating according to Bird.  Full scale
> rating, is the rating on the slug.
>
> That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
> accuracy is +/- 5W (5%).   So, if your wattmeter is reading
> 50W, the actual RF power could actually be 45 or 55 W
>
> 73
> K1NR
>
>
> On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:08:55 -0500
>   Mike  wrote:
>> Wait.
>>
>> Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the
>> real power would be between
>> 95 and 105 watts, right?
>> If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would
>> fall in a range of less than 45
>> to 55 watts?
>>
>> Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did
>> I misunderstand what you said?
>>
>> 73, Mike NF4L
>>
>>
>> On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
>>> The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of
>> the
>>> full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5
>> Watts.
>>> So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0
>> registered
>>> on the meter, the meter is still within its rated
>> accuracy.
>>>
>>> Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter
>> scale
>>> end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
>>> would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
>>> meter range, which means that one would want a 10W
>> slug.
>>>Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W
>>   HF
>>> slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
>>>
>>> 73
>>> K1NR
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
>>>Nate Bargmann   wrote:
>  From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
 element leads to
 very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate
>> when
 the reading is
 as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
 element (is that
 even available?) would be ideal provided no more than
>> 5W
 is put through
 the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
 provide a safety
 margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have
>> both
 elements and
 use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one
>> for
 a final check.

 73, de Nate N0NB>>

 -- 

 "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of
>> all
 possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

 Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us

>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 (was: K3-Twin with Remoterig)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Someone with sharp eyes will catch my mistake, so I'll correct it first. I
should have said,  The first time I saw 4:1 baluns being sold to Hams was to
make it easy to connect the 300 ohm feeder to such a folded dipole to the
output of a rig designed to feed 75 ohms instead of 50 ohms. 

Many Ham rigs using pi-network output in the 1950's and 60's specified a
nominal load impedance of 75 ohms, although most networks were adjustable
over a fairly large range.

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

In the 1960's one very popular and cheap H.F. antenna was the folded dipole.
Often they were made from the ubiquitous 300 ohm "twin lead" used on TV
antennas and fed with the same twin lead since the impedance of a folded
dipole is close to 300 ohms. The first time I saw 4:1 baluns being sold to
Hams was to make it easy to connect the 300 ohm feeder to such a folded
dipole to the output of a rig designed to feed 50 ohms. 

As Hams migrated away from rigs with tunable output networks to rigs with
fixed tuned outputs, MFJ and others produced a line of antenna tuners
specifically designed to correct feed line mismatches since that could no
longer be done at the rig. They included the popular 4:1 balun for those who
were feeding various open wire lines (typically 300 to 600 ohms but which
may have significant SWR - so the impedance might vary much more). 

It seems that many Hams considered the 4:1 ratio some sort of magic number,
when all it was intended to do was provide a good transfer between 300 ohms
and 50 ohms.


Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

[Alan Bloom]

If the balun is at the input, then there can be only one antenna
connected at the output.  I guess that's another reason to put the balun
at the output.

Alan N1AL


On Fri, 2011-12-09 at 05:07 -0500, Ken wrote:
> On Dec 8, 2011, at 10:51 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
> 
> > The disadvantage of putting the balun at the input is that none of the
> > tuner circuitry can be grounded.  For example, the control shafts of the
> > variable capacitors have RF voltage on them, so the knobs must be
> > isolated.  
> 
> 
> If you have the balun on the input to the tuner, can you have ANY SO-239 
> outputs and still be balanced? Or it it limited to balanced line output ONLY 
> (e.g. open wire or ladder line), no coax outputs?
> 
> Ken
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Assembly Question

[Dave Johnson]

The assembly manual is wrong, I notified Elecraft a few days ago of the
same issue. You should fnd there are enough smaller screws to not run short
when you use them for the Z bracket to heatsink assembly.

73  Dave, G4AON
KPA500 #573

"I Just started assembling my KPA500 serial number 0585 this evening. All
was going OK until I got to the point where I mount the Z-bracket to the
PA/LPF heat sink. The book sez to use 4-40 5/16" black flat head screws.
Using this size screw does NOT pull the Z-bracket tight against the heat
sink. I've measured these screws three times and I am certain I'm using
5/16" screws. If I use a 3/16" screw, it works fine."
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

[Jim Brown]

On 12/8/2011 7:51 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
> There's a simple way to look at this that requires no high-level math or
> complicated analysis.
> __
>I1 -->   | |  | | I3 -->
>| |--| |---
> Transmitter   |  BALUN  |  |  TUNER  |Antenna
>| |--| |---
>I2 -->   |_|  |_| I4 -->
>
> The purpose of the balun is to eliminate the common-mode current.  The
> CM current is the NET current, that is, I1 + I2 at the input and I3 + I4
> at the output.  The balun does not store electrons, so it must be that:
>
>  Input common-mode current = output common-mode current.
>
> That is true for both the balun and the tuner.  No matter whether the
> balun is on the transmitter or antenna side of the tuner it does an
> equally good (or bad) job of choking the common-mode currents.
>
> The advantage of putting the balun at the input is that the
> differential-mode voltages and currents (the ones you want) are
> well-controlled because of the constant 50-ohm impedance.  The DM
> current or voltage at the output can be much higher, depending on the
> load impedance.  Of course, the common-mode current and voltage are the
> same at the input and output, but even so the worst-case stress on the
> balun should be less when it is at the input.
>
> The disadvantage of putting the balun at the input is that none of the
> tuner circuitry can be grounded.  For example, the control shafts of the
> variable capacitors have RF voltage on them, so the knobs must be
> isolated.

Change the word "balun" to common mode choke, and I'm with you up to here.

>   If it is an automatic antenna tuner, that is less of a problem.

Except that the automatic circuitry, and it's power supply must also be 
isolated from ground. That part of the design problem seems non-trivial.

> Bottom line?  The ARRL is not necessarily "wrong" to put the balun at
> the tuner input.  It's just a matter of whether you think the lower
> worst-case current/voltage on the balun is worth the hassle of floating
> the tuner ground.

I agree with your analysis, Alan, with the exception noted.

73, Jim K9YC

>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
> On Thu, 2011-12-08 at 18:59 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> This is of interest to me, because in my first experiences with antenna
>> forums (or was it newsgroups at the time),  I recall a lot of exchanges
>> with Tom W8JI on exactly the "balun at the tuner input and isolated
>> unbalanced tuner".  I concur with Tom - it does not work -- both from a
>> theoretical basis, and also from Tom's measurements.
>>
>> This was "way back when" - as I recall my situation when all this was
>> going on, I was running Windows 95 and the year was between 1997 and 1998.
>>
>> In the timeframe of this discussion, Zack Lau (ARRL engineer)  who had
>> first published the "balun at the tuner input" concept as a QRP tuner,
>> had retracted that design because it did not maintain balance, but Dean
>> Straw (ARRL engineer, editor, etc.) published his design of a high power
>> tuner using the same concepts, and that design can still be seen in the
>> ARRL publications.
>>
>> Apologies for the comments into the politics of the ARRL decisions on
>> what is to be published, but that is both a bit of the history as I know
>> it as well as my view of the technical side of this issue.
>>
>> If anyone can tell me how you can run a signal through a balun - and
>> have equal and opposite currents at its output, and then run it through
>> an unbalanced network with unequal elements in the two series legs and
>> still maintain equal and opposite currents and phase, and I will then
>> concede that an isolated unbalanced tuner with a balun at the input will
>> work, but until that is presented to me along with detailed engineering
>> level test data (not just "it works"), I will continue to believe that
>> using a balun on the input of an isolated unbalanced tuner is a "pipe
>> dream" that does not mesh with reality.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> aOn 12/8/2011 6:28 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
>>> Hi Ignacy,
>>>
>>> This is a common misconception. (One which I held until recently. :-) It
>>> turns out there is no advantage to placing the balun at the input of the
>>> L-Network tuner. Since one end of the balun is grounded by the input to
>>> the tuner, it is still presented with the same stresses under high SWR
>>> situations. Baluns at the input and output both drive balanced loads
>>> equally well.
>>>
>>> We've now put together a web page describing the impact of placing the
>>> balun at the input or at the output of a L-Network tuner. See:
>>>
>>> http://www.elecraft.com/KAT500/input_versus_output_balun.htm
>>>
>>> At the bottom of that page are several links providing detailed
>>> technical analysis of these configurations. The first two, by W8JI and
>>> W7EL are very clear discussions of this issue.
>>>
>>> 73, Eric   WA6

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Assembly Question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

You should have gotten an errata sheet showing that you need to 1/4" screws
there. The screws were to be packaged in a separate envelope. If they are
not in there, call Elecraft or drop an e-mail to K3support at Elecraft dot
com.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Bennett
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 1:31 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 Assembly Question

I Just started assembling my KPA500 serial number 0585 this evening. All was
going OK until I got to the point where I mount the Z-bracket to the PA/LPF
heat sink. The book sez to use 4-40 5/16" black flat head screws. Using this
size screw does NOT pull the Z-bracket tight against the heat sink. I've
measured these screws three times and I am certain I'm using 5/16" screws.
If I use a 3/16" screw, it works fine. Also, I have verified that I've
positioned the PA/LPF properly. So, is the documentation wrong, or is this
Z-bracket supposed to be wobbly and not tight against the heat sink?

Thanks, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 (was: K3-Twin with Remoterig)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

In the 1960's one very popular and cheap H.F. antenna was the folded dipole.
Often they were made from the ubiquitous 300 ohm "twin lead" used on TV
antennas and fed with the same twin lead since the impedance of a folded
dipole is close to 300 ohms. The first time I saw 4:1 baluns being sold to
Hams was to make it easy to connect the 300 ohm feeder to such a folded
dipole to the output of a rig designed to feed 50 ohms. 

As Hams migrated away from rigs with tunable output networks to rigs with
fixed tuned outputs, MFJ and others produced a line of antenna tuners
specifically designed to correct feed line mismatches since that could no
longer be done at the rig. They included the popular 4:1 balun for those who
were feeding various open wire lines (typically 300 to 600 ohms but which
may have significant SWR - so the impedance might vary much more). 

It seems that many Hams considered the 4:1 ratio some sort of magic number,
when all it was intended to do was provide a good transfer between 300 ohms
and 50 ohms.


Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

I can attest to what Vic says. I have an 88-foot long doublet, hung about 45
feet up, fed with 85 feet of 600-ohm ladder line. At the shack end I have a
1:1 balun, and then about six feet of RG/8X running to the K3. The K3's
tuner likes the combination. I tried replacing the 1:1 balun with a 4:1 from
the same manufacturer. The K3 was quite unhappy with the change in
components. The 4:1 went back on the shelf, the 1:1 went back inline. YMMV

Jim / W6JHB

On   Thursday, Dec 8, 2011, at  Thursday, 9:14 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

> It is a common misconception that a 4:1 balun is the best choice to feed a
tuned balanced 
> line. The assumption is often made that this is appropriate because the
characteristic 
> impedance of ladder line or open-wire line is higher than the 50-ohm coax
that's connected 
> to the balun's input.
> 
> Actually, since the tuned line is being operated at a high SWR, the
impedance seen by the 
> balun will vary all over the map. It may be very high or very low. This is
a very tough 
> job for the balun, and in some circumstances it can be quite lossy. This
is why a real 
> balanced tuner is better than an unbalanced tuner followed by a balun.
> 
> A 1:1 balun is likely to have lower losses in this application, although
there might be 
> combinations of frequency and line length where a 4:1 is better. I hope
that Elecraft is 
> planning to make their balun either 1:1 or switchable.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PSK31 users

[Rick Bates]

You can use the line in/out for PSK in the DATA-A mode.  Then you don't
worry about speakers, headset or microphone.  With the bonus that you don't
have to reset the levels every mode change.

Rick WA6NHC

-Original Message-
From: Richard Fjeld

The keyboard was hiding it. I had been playing with SDR-IF and had left a
pair of headphones plugged into the front jack on the computer (1/8 inch
plug). It opened the audio path to the Line-Out jack on the rear of the
computer. I unplugged the headphones, and viola'.

Richard Fjeld, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Assembly Question

[Robert Dorchuck W6VY]

I had the same problem (and I think several others have also).  Gary told me to 
use the shorter screws so it would be snug.  They really need 1/4"  screws or 
deeper holes.  Mine was serial 370.

Bob  W6VY

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2011 01:31:28 -0800
From: Jim Bennett 
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 Assembly Question
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII

I Just started assembling my KPA500 serial number 0585 this evening. All was 
going OK until I got to the point where I mount the Z-bracket to the PA/LPF 
heat sink. The book sez to use 4-40 5/16" black flat head screws. Using this 
size screw does NOT pull the Z-bracket tight against the heat sink. I've 
measured these screws three times and I am certain I'm using 5/16" screws. If I 
use a 3/16" screw, it works fine. Also, I have verified that I've positioned 
the PA/LPF properly. So, is the documentation wrong, or is this Z-bracket 
supposed to be wobbly and not tight against the heat sink?

Thanks, Jim / W6JHB


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] For Sale: K1 #589

[Mike Morrow]

> ... is that K1 still available?  If so, what firmware version does it have? 

I don't mean to answer for John, but perhaps this is some useful information:

The firmware of the K1 front panel PIC hasn't changed since January 2001 
(version 1.09), which would be earlier than K1 serial 589.

IIRC, the last significant K1 firmware change was for the KAT1 antenna tuner
PIC (version 1.30) about ten years ago.

K1 development has been *real* stable for the past decade, due to lack of 
anything to complain about! :-)

73,
Mike / KK5F
K1 s/n 175 (November 2000)



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[Elecraft] KPA100 & KAT100

[Fred Jensen]

Both have been sold.  Thanks for all the inquiries.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[TJ Campie]

Well in light that I cannot get 4w requested power on the K3 to reach 40v
p-p, I'll try to do a full system reset and redo all of the calibration
procedures.  How do I access the reset command?

TJ W0EA
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[Elecraft] KAT500 metering?

[NZ8J]

I got in late on the KAT500 discussion and was wondering if it has been
determined if it will have a swr/wattmeter built in similar to the W2 in
design? I didn't see anything in past posts.
Thanks 
Tim
NZ8J

K3 3334
P3 (in transit from Elecraft) 
KPA500 (on the horizon)   :)

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[Elecraft] KPa500 internal clicks

[KD2A]

Lately I have been hearing what sound like random clicks coming from my amp
after transmitting for a short time. Power is good and fan comes on as
needed. I don't remember hearing any sounds at all other than the fan  when
the amp was new. Any one else having the same experience with the KPA500?

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPa500-internal-clicks-tp7061764p7061764.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K2 ALC question

[Andreas Hofmann]

My K2 is a few years old and I have used it exclusively for CW. Now, I am 
setting it up for SSB with a Heil Pro set.  SSB is working and sounds good 
however some people tell me it could have a little bit more punch. I think I 
have the IMD mod done too.

When I talk loudly, where should the ALC  peak?  I know it is going from right 
to left, but I try to figure out what level I should hit during the peaks.

Thanks
Andreas
KU7T
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[Elecraft] K3 – KPA3 ERR 12V – FAULT FOUND

[Giancarlo Moda]

K3 – KPA3 ERR
12V – FAULT FOUND

Hi all, while
experimenting on the K3 (SN 01757) 1st mixer replacement, with the
I7SWX 2T H-Mode Mixer , we proceed on the calibration routine on TX. No errors
were reported for the 5W and 50W power output.
While testing
the RF output (dummy load) on all band we discovered the 80m band would not 
output more than
65W, while on all other bands we were around 100+ W. The K3 was never tested  
or used on 160 and 80m by the owner.

We believe we
have a problem with the low pass filter. 

We checked for burning or damage the
LPF area. To do this the KP100 was removed and then reinserted. Testing the K3
we had KPA3 ERR 12V. We could not understand why we had such a failure as
nothing was done to the amplifier and main unit.

Checked ckt
breaker and 12V PA voltage, all OK. We searched on the Elecraft List for KPA3
ERR 12V thread but we could not get any valued information, apart info on
potential problems due to contact pins oxidation. We replaced connectors with
golden pins ones but no changes. 

From Elecraft support we got some suggestions
regarding what to check or send the equipment to a service center. As
homebrewers this last point is not easy to be accepted … hi.
Manual does not
explain how this Error is being monitored. We studied the circuit starting from 
the
KPA3. 12PA is being detected by R16 and R15 on the KPA3 and generate signal
V12SPA on pins 11-12 on P68A. The V12SPA signal is then processed by the CPLD.
The V12SPA voltage is around 3V for old K3 and 0.6V with new ones or
those where the 1N4148 diode has been added (KPA3 12V Sense Mod, Rev B).
 
What  we
discover is that we had no voltage at V12SPA. 


Checking the KPA3 board we found out
one of the metal contacts of R16 vas broken. Maybe the removal and reinsertion
bent the PCB and the resistor was damaged or it was critically at assembly. Now
K3 is operating OK but we still have the low power problem on 80m. We have
requested to Support the components data as values are not reported on the
circuit diagram. Anyone had similar problem?
 
Best 73
 
Gian,
I7SWX; Sergio, IK8TNG; Mario, IZ8DBJ
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[Elecraft] K2 ALC question

[Andreas Hofmann]

My K2 is a few years old and I have used it exclusively for CW. Now, I am 
setting it up for SSB with a Heil Pro set.  SSB is working and sounds good 
however some people tell me it could have a little bit more punch. I think I 
have the IMD mod done too.

When I talk loudly, where should the ALC  peak?  I know it is going from right 
to left, but I try to figure out what level I should hit during the peaks.

Thanks
Andreas
KU7T
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 91, Issue 5

[Allen Patterson]

Re KX3, Is anyone working on APPS, like for the Apple iPad and iPhone?
Allen Patterson, KC7SYR

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 4, 2011, at 9:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

> Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
>elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. W2 (Phil LaMarche)
>   2. Re: K3 and HRD turning AGC off (Courtney Krehbiel KD6X)
>   3. K2 with the W2 Wattmeter kit (Ray Spreadbury)
>   4. Re: K3 and HRD turning AGC off (Wayne Burdick)
>   5. Re: K2 with the W2 Wattmeter kit (Augie "Gus" Hansen)
>   6. Re: K2 with the W2 Wattmeter kit (Don Wilhelm)
>   7. KH3 PERMISSION TO LAND (ussv dharma)
>   8. KX3 I/Q SDR questions (Richard Fjeld)
>   9. Re: KX3 I/Q SDR questions (Tony Estep)
>  10. Re: KX3 I/Q SDR questions (Wayne Burdick)
>  11. Re: KX3 I/Q SDR questions (Greg)
>  12. Re: K3 and HRD turning AGC off (ik1bxn)
>  13. Re: KX3 I/Q SDR questions (Tony Estep)
>  14. Re: KX3 I/Q SDR questions (Greg)
>  15. Re: P3 Center Freq save per band (Gill W4RYW)
>  16. K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (ai6ii)
>  17. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (ai6ii)
>  18. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (Don Wilhelm)
>  19. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (ai6ii)
>  20. Help with K3 and Signalink USB (Doug Shields)
>  21. Re: Help with K3 and Signalink USB (W0MU Mike Fatchett)
>  22. Re: Help with K3 and Signalink USB (Tony Estep)
>  23. Clamp-on RF current meters - a question for Ian andothers..
>  (VK7JB)
>  24. Help with K3 and Signalink USB - FIXED!! (Doug Shields)
>  25. Re: Help with K3 and Signalink USB - FIXED!! (W0MU Mike Fatchett)
>  26. Fix for K3 and Signalink USB (Doug Shields)
>  27. headphone problem (Joe K2UF)
>  28. Re: headphone problem (W0MU Mike Fatchett)
>  29. Re: headphone problem (W0MU Mike Fatchett)
>  30. Re: headphone problem (Joe K2UF)
>  31. Re: Clamp-on RF current meters - a question for Ianand
>  others.. (Ian White GM3SEK)
>  32. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (briana)
>  33. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (ai6ii)
>  34. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (Larry Phipps)
>  35. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (Tony Estep)
>  36. Re: K3 Beta 4.42 and LP Bridge (Wayne Burdick)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2011 12:25:42 -0400
> From: "Phil LaMarche" 
> Subject: [Elecraft] W2
> To: 
> Message-ID: <03a201cc9a45$3c16a640$b443f2c0$@verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> The W2 is sold and thanks for all the emails.
> 
> 
> 
> Phil
> 
> 
> 
> Philip LaMarche
> 
> 
> 
> LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
> 
> 
> 
>  p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
> 
>  www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com  
> 
> 
> 
> 727-944-3226
> 
> 727-937-8834 Fax
> 
> 727-510-5038 Cell 
> 
>   www.w9dvm.com
> 
> K3 # 1605
> 
> KPA500 # 029
> 
> P3 #1480
> 
> 
> 
> CCA 98-00827
> 
> CRA 1701
> 
> W9DVM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 09:43:21 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Courtney Krehbiel KD6X 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD turning AGC off
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Message-ID: <1320338601640-6959674.p...@n2.nabble.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> I also have been having problems where the AGC suddenly shuts off while using
> HRD V.5 with the K3/P3 combination.  It's not caused by RF because often
> this happens when I'm not even in the shack.  I did find what seems to be a
> solution for me, so I thought I'd post back and hopefully help others
> similarly afflicted.  My ah-ha moment came when I looked at the P3 manual
> and realized that the RS232 path to the K3 went through the P3.  (Figure on
> p.13 of the P3 manual.)  The communication between the P3 and K3 is always
> fixed at 38400 baud.  However, the communication between the computer and P3
> can be changed.  My  HRD to P3 link was originally set at the default of
> 38400 baud.  I used the RS232 menu selection on the P3 to set the speed to
> 9600 baud and made the same corresponding change to the connection
> parameters in HRD on the PC.  I haven't had any problems with the AGC
> dropping since then, and I haven't noticed any significant differnce in the
> functionality of HRD's ability to control/read the K3.
> 
>  -- Courtney  KD6X
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-and-HRD-turning-AGC-off-tp6340160p6959674.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> 
> 
> -

Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 (was: K3-Twin with Remoterig)

[Jim Bennett]

I can attest to what Vic says. I have an 88-foot long doublet, hung about 45 
feet up, fed with 85 feet of 600-ohm ladder line. At the shack end I have a 1:1 
balun, and then about six feet of RG/8X running to the K3. The K3's tuner likes 
the combination. I tried replacing the 1:1 balun with a 4:1 from the same 
manufacturer. The K3 was quite unhappy with the change in components. The 4:1 
went back on the shelf, the 1:1 went back inline. YMMV

Jim / W6JHB

On   Thursday, Dec 8, 2011, at  Thursday, 9:14 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

> It is a common misconception that a 4:1 balun is the best choice to feed a 
> tuned balanced 
> line. The assumption is often made that this is appropriate because the 
> characteristic 
> impedance of ladder line or open-wire line is higher than the 50-ohm coax 
> that's connected 
> to the balun's input.
> 
> Actually, since the tuned line is being operated at a high SWR, the impedance 
> seen by the 
> balun will vary all over the map. It may be very high or very low. This is a 
> very tough 
> job for the balun, and in some circumstances it can be quite lossy. This is 
> why a real 
> balanced tuner is better than an unbalanced tuner followed by a balun.
> 
> A 1:1 balun is likely to have lower losses in this application, although 
> there might be 
> combinations of frequency and line length where a 4:1 is better. I hope that 
> Elecraft is 
> planning to make their balun either 1:1 or switchable.

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[Elecraft] AGC mush or noise

[Ron Leech]

Can you at Elecraft not make a program that you could send out that 
would clone the K3 radio programming so that the user could send it back 
to Elecraft for examination for errors and or possible a program update 
to rectify the up coming complaints that could give it bad name.
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[Elecraft] KPA500 Assembly Question

[Jim Bennett]

I Just started assembling my KPA500 serial number 0585 this evening. All was 
going OK until I got to the point where I mount the Z-bracket to the PA/LPF 
heat sink. The book sez to use 4-40 5/16" black flat head screws. Using this 
size screw does NOT pull the Z-bracket tight against the heat sink. I've 
measured these screws three times and I am certain I'm using 5/16" screws. If I 
use a 3/16" screw, it works fine. Also, I have verified that I've positioned 
the PA/LPF properly. So, is the documentation wrong, or is this Z-bracket 
supposed to be wobbly and not tight against the heat sink?

Thanks, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 91, Issue 40

[w3cmp]

- Original Message -
From: elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 12:00:33 PM 
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 91, Issue 40 

Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to 
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit 
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." 


Today's Topics: 

1. Re: KPA500 - key down current on CW (David Ferrington, M0XDF) 
2. Soft case for KX3 (Phillip Shepard) 
3. Elecraft SSB Net results (11/27/11) (Edward R. Cole) 
4. Re: Soft case for KX3 (Jon K?re Hellan) 
5. Dust cover for the KX3 (Rose) 
6. Re: Dust cover for the KX3 (va3...@gmail.com) 
7. Re: KPA500 - key down current on CW (Roy Morris) 
8. K3 Matching Power Supply (KQ8M) 
9. KX3 cover... (John Ragle) 
10. Re: KPA500 - key down current on CW (Brian Alsop) 
11. Re: Dust cover for the KX3 (Fred Jensen) 
12. Re: KPA500 - key down current on CW (Roy Morris) 
13. Re: KX3 cover... (Fred Jensen) 
14. Re: KPA500 - key down current on CW (Ron D'Eau Claire) 
15. Can the K3 toggle between two power levels? (Mike Weir) 
16. Re: Can the K3 toggle between two power levels? (Nate Bargmann) 
17. Can the K3 toggle between two power levels? (Richard) 
18. 6m kw solid state amplifiers at an affordable price 
(Lance Collister, W7GJ) 
19. Re: K2 for Sale - K2/10 with most options (K7MDL) 
20. K3s on Malpelo (Tony Estep) 
21. [ot] rf from smart meters (Mike Rodgers) 
22. Re: [ot] rf from smart meters (Bob Cunnings) 
23. Re: K3 together with P3 and EXPERT 1k possible? (DL2FI. Peter) 
24. OT: Smart metering (Ken G Kopp) 
25. Re: [ot] rf from smart meters (Bill W4ZV) 
26. Re: [ot] rf from smart meters (John Ragle) 
27. Re: I?ve just found something incredible! (Dan Atchison) 
28. Re: [ot] rf from smart meters (Brian Alsop) 
29. QSK OFF (Paul VanOveren) 
30. Re: QSK OFF (Grant Youngman) 


-- 

Message: 1 
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 17:03:03 + 
From: "David Ferrington, M0XDF"  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - key down current on CW 
To: Jim Sheldon  
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Message-ID: <2c1a54a8-ef36-41eb-b195-bc1fdc33f...@alphadene.co.uk> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii 

Thank you very much, just what I wanted to know. 
73 de M0XDF 
-- 
When a distinguished but elderly scientist states that something is possible he 
is almost certainly right. When he states that something is impossible, he is 
very probably wrong. 
-Arthur C Clarke, science fiction writer (1917-2008) 

On 28 Nov 2011, at 16:36, Jim Sheldon wrote: 

> On my resonant Tribander with 1.2.1 SWR and the bargraph indicating 500W 
> output, mine pulls 11.9 amps with the HV measuring 62.5 volts for a drain 
> input power of 743.75 watts. The amp is being run on a mains voltage of 240. 
> Drive power from the K3 indicates 28 watts. 
> 
> Jim - W0EB 
> 
>> Purely as a matter of interest, how much current does the KPA500 
>> draw on CW key down? 
>> 73 de M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???) 



-- 

Message: 2 
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 09:25:43 -0800 
From: "Phillip Shepard"  
Subject: [Elecraft] Soft case for KX3 
To:  
Message-ID:  
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

Does anyone know if Rose is making a padded, soft case for the KX3 that will 
protect it inside a backpack? 

73, 
Phil, NS7P 

-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of John Flynn 
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 8:26 AM 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 and Pelican case? 


Good Day Everyone, 

Has anyone figured out which Pelican case will accommodate the KX3? 

Txn es 73 

John KK4BOB 

-- 
John Flynn 
Tallahassee, Florida 
USA 
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-- 

Message: 3 
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 08:42:01 -0900 
From: "Edward R. Cole"  
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (11/27/11) 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Message-ID: <20281742.pashg19s010...@denali.acsalaska.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed 

In fact, Phil, my K3/10 probably qualifies as QRP full-time though I 
do get 16w out at max on 2m. I think you will notice the difference 
the first time I check-in at 300w ;-) Still haven't started work on that kit. 

My current interest is mod

Re: [Elecraft] K3-Twin with Remoterig

[W0SD Ed Gray]

I wanted to add the importance of flexibility not for just a group 
situation but when just one person is involved. I have been blessed to 
be able to travel a lot and taking a K3 or future K3/0 can be a real 
hassle sometimes even in the USA to say nothing to some countries. If 
you have ever had your equipment confiscated, stolen etc. you know about 
the hassles. Certainly flying it is always a hassle at every check where 
a computer goes through no problem. Also sometimes you want to use the 
K3 where you are at and still use your home station remotely with out a 
bunch of reconfiguation changes. There are many others as to why 
flexibility is important and it appears Microbit understands this and 
that one can pretty seamlessly move from TWIN to future K3/0 to remote 
control via say TRX Manager and just a computer, etc. Why not let the 
software do the work rather than have to do a bunch of re-configuring 
all the time. It is exciting to me that this looks like it will soon be 
reality and should make it easier for people to use a station remotely.

Looking to the future I will say for most K3 owners I believe the 
popular way to do remote operate with their K3 will be the K3/0 with say 
a Microbit control box. It will be really easy and not a lot to carry 
around. A key here is when you are home that you can use your station 
locally with out much hassle and from what my experience has been so far 
this is not an issue.

Ed W0SD

On 12/9/2011 9:38 AM, W0SD Ed Gray wrote:
> Hi Mitch,
> I certainly have some things to learn. There really is not a lot of
> detail on how the "paths" work but Mike from Microbit is very helpful.
> What is was trying to say for logging/control with say TRX Manager is
> that I can do it two ways.
>
> First way uses my laptop COM1 and set USB to COM0 to YES.
> Second way uses my laptop set to the Virtual port for COM1 and I set USB
> to COM1  YES and USB to COM0 and USB to COM2 to NO
>
> I will have to try what you say in regards to to mode-6 etc.  In  the
> manual mode-6 did not seem to apply to logging/control with say TRX
> Manager at all but says  such as antenna switching control. Apparently
> you are telling me I can do logging/control with say TRX Manager this way.
>
> I also heard an exciting thing this morning from Mike at Microbit and he
> gave me a download URL. As I understand it with this version I can  use
> the TWINS or just use remote control with very little changes, ie just
> one K3. There are a lot of advantages to this and certainly increases
> the flexibility a good deal. It will not be as important when the
> Hardware radio panel interface shows up and if it is at a price that
> people will want to spend.  However I think it will always be important
> for flexibility to be able to operate remotely with a TWIN(eventually a
> hardware radio panel interface) with the Microbit Control RCC box or
> just with the computer and control RCC box and make changing between
> them very easily so as you say it just makes it even more feasible for a
> number of people to share one fully equipped K3 at a very good site with
> good antennas as a relatively low cost per user.  I think a big key to
> this is to not have to do much reconfiguring as the control goes from
> one person to another and they can use a K3 or a hardware radio panel
> interface, just a computer with say TRX Manager, etc.
>
> Thanks for your continued help Mitch!  I think people thinking about
> using the K3 remotely can do so with confidence that there is plenty of
> help in getting things working and already in just a few days it has
> gotten a lot easier.
>
> Ed W0SD
>
> On 12/9/2011 6:35 AM, Mitch Wolfson DJØQN wrote:
>> Hi Ed,
>>
>> Thanks for letting us know about your experiences with the Elecraft
>> Twin firmware.
>>
>> As you know, I have been testing this for a couple of months now and
>> have been very impressed. There are a couple of bugs on the K3
>> firmware side that I am sure will be resolved soon, but this is not
>> top priority.we are all waiting for the KX3 firmware to be
>> completed! ;-)
>>
>> The details about the cables is actually well documented in the
>> RemoteRig manual; there are schematics for all the cables in that
>> section. Of course, someone may of course choose to buy a cable set,
>> but you can make your own if you wish. The most important custom cable
>> is the one that allows powering-on the remote K3 when you power-on
>> locally, since the K3 does not allow one to turn it on by using a CAT
>> command.
>>
>> Where I disagree with you is your comment about having to set COM1 to
>> USB. I have never experienced a  need to do so, and indeed have none
>> of my serial ports set to USB mode (although of course I could switch
>> COM1 to USB for CAT if I wanted to).
>>
>> I run COM2 as "logical parallel with COM0" as per the manual, as well
>> as COM1 in mode-6 (CAT to COM2). This allows one to use CAT both on
>> the remote PC without any wiring change when operating

[Elecraft] schurr key for sale

[davead7ij]

I have a schurr profi-2  (duel paddle) key new in the box has never been used 
that I would like to sell for $250.00 if anyone is interested please call me at 
801 796-8211 TNX Dave AD7IJ
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] For Sale: K1 #589

[Jim Rodenkirch]

John: is that K1 still available?  If so, what firmware version does it have? 
72, Jim Rodenkirch, K9JWV

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-For-Sale-K1-589-tp6479827p7055450.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3: output power low only on 17m SSB!!

[Brian Machesney]

I'm hoping someone else has experienced this, because it's too weird for me
to figure out.

When I QSY to 17m phone and begin to speak into the mic, I get very low
output power. The only way I can get to full output is to switch to CW and
begin transmitting, during which I see the output power rise to the
expected 100W. This is the only band on which this problem occurs.

Using the latest firmware.

Any clues?

Brian K1LI
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[Elecraft] K3 Strange problem

[Joe Ford]

This is a new (but not my first k3). It has the KPA3,
KAT3, KRX3, KXV3A and P3. I have 2 antennas connected to the KAT3. Ant1 is a
beam, Ant2 is an 88’ long dipole fed with ladder line to an Elecraft 4:1 balun
then with coax to the rig. The KAT3 normally tunes it 1:1 on 80/40/30/20, which
are the only bands I use it on.


Today on the 30m band I heard a dx station working a
pileup up. I pushed A>B,Split and Sub. When I keyed the K3 to call the DX, I 
got the HIGH SWR message.
Now when I tap ATU TUNE, the SWR maxes out, power out drops, the relays go
crazy, it tunes to 2:1, power goes to whatever I have it set for and tuning
stops.
 
It only does this on 30m. It tunes to 1:1 on the other bands. If I switch to
ANT1 on 30m it tunes to 1:1.3. Same with ANT1, SPLIT and SUB selected. My K2
with KAT100 tunes the same antenna to 1:1 on 30m. I’ve had this antenna up for 
several
years and it works as well as you would expect, it’s only about 35 feet in the
air.

Yesterday it did this same thing, but after trying to locate the source of the
problem for awhile, I powered down and disconnected everything from the back of
the K3. Then moved the K3 to a different location because I wanted to bypass
the antenna switch and hook directly to the coax coming from the balun. With 
just
the antenna and power supply connected I tried the
antenna on 30m and continued getting 2:1 SWR. But, this is strange, I placed 
the K3 back to its normal location, reconnected everything and when I tuned the
dipole on 30m it went to 1:1. I had a qso with it on 30m last night and the swr
was fine. Today it was fine until I went A>B, SPLIT and SUB to call the DX.
Then I keyed and got the HIGH SWR again. 

That’s where I am now. It shows full power out even though SWR is at 2:1. I
can’t duplicate the problem on any of the other bands. The K3 is only a few
weeks old. I can’t remember if I was ever able to do an ANT TUNE after doing 
SPLIT/SUB on 30m, probably not. I have the Auxilary antenna connected to the
BNC. KRX3 in Config is set to Ant=Atu.

I’ve tried everything I can think of. Why did it go HIGH SWR the first time I
used the SUB rcvr? I did the memory clear for the KAT3 but it made no
difference. 
 
I hope someone can help me.  Thanks,
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[Elecraft] K3 with CM500 headset

[Richard Fjeld]

I'd like some help from K3 folks using a CM500 headset with setting the RECEIVE 
Eq.
How can I use this to an advantage?

Thanks,

Richard Fjeld, n0ce
rpfj...@embarqmail.com
E=IR, it's the law.
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[Elecraft] K3 PSK31 users

[Richard Fjeld]

PSK-31 users. Here's one for your notebook. It may save you some consternation.

It had been a few months since I used HRD/DM780 to run PSK31 in DATA A mode on 
my K3.
Everything seemed to be working fine except I had no output. I checked 
EVERYTHING, even re-read the manual. PSK31-D worked with the paddle, but not 
DATA-A.

I was moving the mouse to select the K3 utility to re-load the firmware when I 
discovered the problem.
The keyboard was hiding it. I had been playing with SDR-IF and had left a pair 
of headphones plugged into the front jack on the computer (1/8 inch plug). It 
opened the audio path to the Line-Out jack on the rear of the computer. I 
unplugged the headphones, and viola'.

Richard Fjeld, n0ce
rpfj...@embarqmail.com
E=IR, it's the law.
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Re: [Elecraft] Multiple ACC ports needed

[Keith Heimbold]

Please disregard question. Sorry for inconvenience.

Thanks,

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 9, 2011, at 1:23 PM, "Joe Subich, W4TV"  wrote:

> 
> Check the reflector archives.  This has been discussed "many* times.
> 
> The "simple" solution is an "all 15" Y-cable:
> 
>   www.cablewholesale.com  p/n 10H1-27708
> 
> It's still listed for $3.44 in single quantity with a notation "in
> stock - Usually ships same day"
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
> On 12/9/2011 3:54 PM, Keith Heimbold wrote:
>> All -
>> 
>> I am a new K3 owner and I just noticed that my K3 needs to connect both the 
>> 6m preamp and my Quadra amplifier to the ACC port on the K3. Does anyone 
>> know of a device or cable that would allow me to bridge across multiple 
>> external devices.  Any assistance would be much appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Keith
>> AG6AZ
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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Re: [Elecraft] Multiple ACC ports needed

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Check the reflector archives.  This has been discussed "many* times.

The "simple" solution is an "all 15" Y-cable:

www.cablewholesale.com  p/n 10H1-27708

It's still listed for $3.44 in single quantity with a notation "in
stock - Usually ships same day"

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 12/9/2011 3:54 PM, Keith Heimbold wrote:
> All -
>
> I am a new K3 owner and I just noticed that my K3 needs to connect both the 
> 6m preamp and my Quadra amplifier to the ACC port on the K3. Does anyone know 
> of a device or cable that would allow me to bridge across multiple external 
> devices.  Any assistance would be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith
> AG6AZ
>
> Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
> __
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] Multiple ACC ports needed

[Keith Heimbold]

Disregard email. I found the proper connector.

Sorry to bother everyone.

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 9, 2011, at 12:54 PM, "Keith Heimbold"  wrote:

> All -
> 
> I am a new K3 owner and I just noticed that my K3 needs to connect both the 
> 6m preamp and my Quadra amplifier to the ACC port on the K3. Does anyone know 
> of a device or cable that would allow me to bridge across multiple external 
> devices.  Any assistance would be much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Keith 
> AG6AZ
> 
> Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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Re: [Elecraft] AM with FM filter (was: Re: [Elecraft_K3] Re: Close to Ordering)

[Duncan Carter]

On 11/7/2011 5:16 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
>
> Why not go to the confurgation menue and change the filter setting from
> 13 to 6 khz. I bet it will work.
>
That's what you need to do to use the FM filter on AM - lie to the K3.
>
>
> I dont have the filter so I can not check it out.
>
> I am not sure what effect this would have on the TX width, maybe someone
> can check it out.
>
> ~73
> Don
> KD8NNU
>
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2011 at 1:34 PM, Oliver Dröse wrote:
>
> > Hi Joe,
> >
> > interestingly you CAN transmit AM with the FM filter! But it just
> > works for one over. ;-)) Found it out by chance during the last few
> > weeks with the nice 10 m conditions when tuning to the AM portion of
> > the band. I only have the FM filter fitted (besides CW/SSB filters)
> > and running firmware 4.42 beta (not tested with other ones) I can
> > transmit in AM. Just AFTER releasing the PTT I will get an TXFILERR on
> > the VFOB display and will not be able to transmit anymore. You need to
> > power-off and on the radio then to make it work again. As that is no
> > good QSO practice and you probably miss a few sentences from your QSO
> > partner during "K3 reboot" I just did one QSO that way (and
> > furthermore I am not really interested in AM just wanted to try it
> > out). ;-))
> >
> > Just my observations on that topic. Besides I completely agree with
> > you, I do not see why you should not be able (or better "allowed") to
> > transmit AM through the FM filter ...
> >
> > 73, Olli - DH8BQA
> >
> >
> >
> > - Original Message - From: "Joe Subich, W4TV"
> > mailto:lists%40subich.com>>
> > To: mailto:Elecraft_K3%40yahoogroups.com>>
> > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 6:13 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft_K3] Re: Close to Ordering
> >
> >
> >>
> >>> If you wish to transmit AM, you'll need a 6 kHz filter.
> >>>
> >>> If you wish to transmit FM, you'll need a 13 kHz FM filter.
> >>
> >> This still bugs me ... *WHY* won't Wayne enable AM transmit
> >> with the FM filter? I've run multiple tests with a spectrum
> >> analyzer and can find no image when I set the bandwidth of
> >> the FM filter to 6 KHz to enable AM and generate a test signal
> >> with the two-tone generator.
> >>
> >> I don't want to waste one of the limited filter slots for both
> >> AM and FM filters but I want to be able to transmit either mode
> >> if so inclined.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> ... Joe, W4TV
> >>
> >>
> >
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[Elecraft] Multiple ACC ports needed

[Keith Heimbold]

All -

I am a new K3 owner and I just noticed that my K3 needs to connect both the 6m 
preamp and my Quadra amplifier to the ACC port on the K3. Does anyone know of a 
device or cable that would allow me to bridge across multiple external devices. 
 Any assistance would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Keith 
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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[Elecraft] Stainless screws

[Nelson Wittstock]

I have been a satisfied customer of a place called the Bolt Depot.  As a 
matter of fact I restored my car using them as a primary source for almost 
all of the hardware.  For example, they have 3/16" 4-40 machine screws in 
stainless for five cents each with no minimum order. They carry a vast 
variety of fasteners.  No connection, just a happy customer.

http://www.boltdepot.com/

Nelson, K8DJC 

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Re: [Elecraft] mush in the ear of the beholder

[Keith Heimbold]

I am new to the K3 (about two weeks now) and it is such a sensitive and 
selective rig compared to my FT950 that I am constantly adjusting volume 
because DX comes in at levels I would not hear with the 950 especially since i 
can adjust NB and DSP so much more effectively, and then I get blasted when 
someone comes in with +20 signal. I don't have the preamp on either in most 
cases. 

Guess I just need to be quicker on the volume dial. I will take it though since 
now I can actually hear those once non-intelligible signals. Nice problem to 
have.

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 9, 2011, at 12:37 PM, "Guy Olinger K2AV"  wrote:

> Easier to read because the K3 does not add an extra layer of obscuring mush
> from intermodulation products, as does, for instance, my FT1000MP.  BUT it
> now makes it possible to hear previously unknown unavoidable effects of
> many signals right at the noise.  Sometimes things are more peaceful if you
> don't know much  :>)
> 
> 73, Guy.
> 
> On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 12:17 PM, Tony Estep  wrote:
> 
>> I subscribe to a group dedicated to the other "gold standard" DX
>> radio. Here is a paraphrase of a query that was sent to that group
>> from a DX station after the CQWW. The station had radio X at the main
>> position, and a K3 at the multiplier position:
>> 
>> ...all the operators complained about the signals in heavy pile-ups on
>> CW on the low bands. It was very difficult to distinguish the
>> different signals.
>> They told me that it was easier to work the pileups with the K3
>> 
>> I'm sure this won't change anybody's mind about anything, butI'm just
>> sayin'
>> 
>> 73, Tony KT0NY
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
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Re: [Elecraft] mush in the ear of the beholder

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Easier to read because the K3 does not add an extra layer of obscuring mush
from intermodulation products, as does, for instance, my FT1000MP.  BUT it
now makes it possible to hear previously unknown unavoidable effects of
many signals right at the noise.  Sometimes things are more peaceful if you
don't know much  :>)

73, Guy.

On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 12:17 PM, Tony Estep  wrote:

> I subscribe to a group dedicated to the other "gold standard" DX
> radio. Here is a paraphrase of a query that was sent to that group
> from a DX station after the CQWW. The station had radio X at the main
> position, and a K3 at the multiplier position:
>
> ...all the operators complained about the signals in heavy pile-ups on
> CW on the low bands. It was very difficult to distinguish the
> different signals.
> They told me that it was easier to work the pileups with the K3
>
> I'm sure this won't change anybody's mind about anything, butI'm just
> sayin'
>
> 73, Tony KT0NY
>
>
>
>
> --
> http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352
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Re: [Elecraft] solder / lamp

[Fred Jensen]

FWIW:  I built my K2 and KX1 using a 1 lb roll of 63/37 0.015" solder 
I've had for a hundred years.  I never had feed-rate problems, and was 
able to very finely control how much solder went into the holes. 
There's still about 1/3 lb of solder on the roll.

My wife bought me a magnifying lamp encircled with very bright white 
LED's.  It eliminates shadows.  There is a little optical distortion if 
you look through the edges of the glass, but it works a lot better for 
me than the Optivisor I tried.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

On 12/8/2011 9:24 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> I suggest Kester 285 solder in the 37/63 alloy mix.  A diameter of 0.20
> is a good compromise between a decent feed rate and getting too much
> solder on the connection before you know what is happening.
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Eugene Balinski]

I did mention that in an earlier email. If you look at the
Bird 43 meter, the scale is not linear.  There is scale
compression at either end.  To get the most readibility,
one would want a slug that would place the expected
meassurement in the center of the meter...

73

Gene K1NR




On Fri, 9 Dec 2011 08:09:27 -0800 (PST)
 VE3GNO/YO3GJC Daniel  wrote:
> The 5% accuracy of the wattmeter is not constant over the
> entire range from the 1st division of the scale
> coresponding to 1W or so to last 100W and can variate,
> they say is up to 5%. Now where is the best precision
> hard to say but might be in the middle range or full
> scale.
> 
> 
> VE3GNO/YO3GJC Daniel
> 
> 
> 
> From: Eugene Balinski 
> To: n...@nf4l.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Sent: Friday, December 9, 2011 10:32:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w
> calibration?
> 
> >From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
> **full scale** rating according to Bird.  Full scale
> rating, is the rating on the slug.  
> 
> That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
> accuracy is +/- 5W (5%).  So, if your wattmeter is
> reading
> 50W, the actual RF power could actually be 45 or 55 W
> 
> 73
> K1NR
> 
> 
> On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:08:55 -0500
> Mike  wrote:
> > Wait.
> > 
> > Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts,
> the
> > real power would be between 
> > 95 and 105 watts, right?
> > If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would
> > fall in a range of less than 45 
> > to 55 watts?
> > 
> > Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or
> did
> > I misunderstand what you said?
> > 
> > 73, Mike NF4L
> > 
> > 
> > On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> > > The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of
> > the
> > > full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5
> > Watts.
> > >    So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0
> > registered
> > > on the meter, the meter is still within its rated
> > accuracy.
> > >
> > >
> > > Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter
> > scale
> > > end compression.  To get the most accurate reading,
> one
> > > would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of
> the
> > > meter range, which means that one would want a 10W
> > slug.
> > >  Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W
> >  HF
> > > slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
> > >
> > > 73
> > > K1NR
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
> > >  Nate Bargmann  wrote:
> > >> > From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a
> 100W
> > >> element leads to
> > >> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate
> > when
> > >> the reading is
> > >> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W
> HF
> > >> element (is that
> > >> even available?) would be ideal provided no more
> than
> > 5W
> > >> is put through
> > >> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
> > >> provide a safety
> > >> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have
> > both
> > >> elements and
> > >> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W
> one
> > for
> > >> a final check.
> > >>
> > >> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
> > >>
> > >> -- 
> > >>
> > >> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of
> > all
> > >> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
> > >>
> > >> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more:
> http://www.n0nb.us
> > >>
> > 
> > 
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws - plus remote, redisigned front pannel.

[Ivo Pezer E73A/9A3A]

When I first went to operate from T70A, during the last year CQ WW CW, the 
T70A club members were all eager to see K3. The first thing they observed 
was rusty screws, so it was not easy to convince some of them that K3 is not 
a toy, but real contest machine

Another thing that I would suggest to Elecraft is to offer, as an option, 
large, remotelly attachable front panel,  redisigned for ease of everyday 
use. I am sure some of us would not mind having a large, oversized remote 
front panel that could allow easier access to the often used knobs/controls 
and also visually make K3 appear  bigger, comparable to its on the air 
performance. Having an FT 990 as a R2 in my SO2R setup, every time I access 
oversized knobs, it reminds me that in the heat of the battle these things 
also affect overall perfornace, by reducing stress of trying to quickly 
reach small, hard-to-access knobs and conrols

73 Ivo I7/9A3A




- Original Message - 
From: "Johnny Siu" 
To: "Cady, Fred" ; "W0MU Mike Fatchett" 
; "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2011 3:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Rusting screws


> Hello Gentleman,
>
> All the screws in K3, P3 and KPA500 show signs of rusting after two months 
> in VR2. I trust the provision of SS screws as a kind of standard provision 
> (not optional) should have minimal effects on the costings.
>
> The picture of my shack shown in www.qrz.com shows the environment of my 
> QTH.
>
> For radio equipment at the elite class (like elecraft radios), I would not 
> expect to see rusting screws. Equally speaking, I do not expect the 
> quality of screws used in Elecraft radios is the same as that in MFJ.
>
> The screws of my Kuranishi antenna analyser BR510 show no sign of rusting 
> after years of usage.
>
> TNX & 73,
>
>
> Johnny VR2XMC
>
>
> 
> 從︰ "Cady, Fred" 
> 收件人︰ W0MU Mike Fatchett ; Elecraft Reflector 
> 
> 傳送日期︰ 2011年12月8日 (週四) 10:09 PM
> 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws
>
> You think the screws on the K3 get rusted, you ought to see the screws
> on the MFJ antenna analyzer after a week on C6.
> Fred KE7X
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0MU Mike
> Fatchett
> Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 10:19 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: [Elecraft] Rusting screws
>
> Nearly all my case screws on my K3 and KPA 500 are showing signs of rust
>
> after being in Saint Lucia for just 11 days.   Mother nature is
> relentless down there!
>
> --
> Mike W0MU
>
> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
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[Elecraft] K3 Menu lockout ?

[ERIC MANNING]

Is there a way to prevent access to the Config Menus by a guest operator?

[Handy for Field Day, visiting relatives etc]

Eric
VA7DZ

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

[Joe Word]

This is what I know at this point. Based on comments on this board and
private emails, this is a common issue, I would think a good many
people that don't think they have the issue just don't hear it due to
hearing loss or head phone use. It happens with both factory made and
kits.

I tried to resolve mine by loosening the top panel screws (so not
torqued), but no help.
I loosened the transformer bolt and re-tighten it (it was tight to
start with), but no help.

Could this be from the heat sensing device that triggers the fan?

Joe  N9VX

On Thu, Dec 8, 2011 at 12:37 PM, Joe Word  wrote:
> My KPA500 has developed a heat expansion pop. When it heats up and
> then cools down I get a pop from inside the amp. It does this now
> every time I make a SSB transmission.
>
> Anyone else experience this? If so, any resolution?
>
> Joe  N9VX
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting Screws

[Tony Estep]

On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 12:35 PM, K7WIA  wrote:
> If I had a problem with the screws rusting, I would be replacing mine with
> this.
>
> http://www.fastener-express.com/button-socket-screws-black-anodized-aluminum.aspx
>

They are neat-looking, but don't tighten 'em too much. It's oh-so-easy
to strip out that little hex recess, as I have found to my sorrow.

Tony KT0NY


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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting Screws

[K7WIA]

They also have them in flat head

http://www.fastener-express.com/flat-screws-black-anodized-aluminum.aspx

Ed K7WIA

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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting Screws

[K7WIA]

If I had a problem with the screws rusting, I would be replacing mine with
this.

http://www.fastener-express.com/button-socket-screws-black-anodized-aluminum.aspx

Ed  K7WIA

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Re: [Elecraft] solder / lamp

[Jim Wiley]

Check Magnifier.com for their HVM-5L lighted magnifier.  It comes with a 
set of 4 interchangeable  lenses giving  1.2X, 1.8X, 2.5X and 3.5X 
magnifications.  The lenses clip into the headband.  No peripheral 
vision restrictions.  Does not have a knob-adjustable headband, but the 
slide-clamp adjuster works well and is easy to use. Most importantly,it 
can be worn over your normal glasses, so any corrective prescriptions n 
your regular glasses can be retained.   Inexpensive too, only $22 plus 
shipping.   Optivisors are nice, no question about that, but the HVM-5L 
is one heck of a better deal.  I am very happy with the one I got. 
No connection, etc.


Here is a link:   http://www.magnifier.com/hands_free_magnifier.htm


- Jim, KL7CC



Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I've got #4 lenses in my OptiVisor. Since it is designed to wear it over my
> normal reading glasses I can change the magnification by taking my reading
> glasses off, but seldom do.  
>
> In addition to Hamfests, you can find Optivisors at most hobby and crafts
> stores. 
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> Choose the magnfication carefully - some powers require that you place the 
> soldering iron at your nose - not a comfortable situation. Choose 
> carefully, and try several different diopters at a hamfest (if you are 
> able) before making a decision about which is best for you.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] solder / lamp

[Rick Dettinger]

OptiVisors also restrict peripheral vision.  Keep that in mine while  
reaching for the hot soldering iron.  I had to interrupt work on a kit  
for a trip to the emergency room!  I thought that I knew just where to  
reach. I was a little off.

73,
Rick   K7MW



On Dec 9, 2011, at 10:07 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I've got #4 lenses in my OptiVisor. Since it is designed to wear it  
> over my
> normal reading glasses I can change the magnification by taking my  
> reading
> glasses off, but seldom do.
>
> In addition to Hamfests, you can find Optivisors at most hobby and  
> crafts
> stores.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> Choose the magnfication carefully - some powers require that you  
> place the
> soldering iron at your nose - not a comfortable situation. Choose
> carefully, and try several different diopters at a hamfest (if you are
> able) before making a decision about which is best for you.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] solder / lamp

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I've got #4 lenses in my OptiVisor. Since it is designed to wear it over my
normal reading glasses I can change the magnification by taking my reading
glasses off, but seldom do.  

In addition to Hamfests, you can find Optivisors at most hobby and crafts
stores. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Choose the magnfication carefully - some powers require that you place the 
soldering iron at your nose - not a comfortable situation. Choose 
carefully, and try several different diopters at a hamfest (if you are 
able) before making a decision about which is best for you.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting Screws - McMaster Carr

[Don Wilhelm]

I have dealt with McMaster Carr for many years, and I regard them as my 
premier hardware supplier.  If I want only one, I will try to see if the 
local Ace Hardware has it, but if I want more than 1 or two, McMaster 
Carr is the "go to" place - certainly I may have to buy in quantities of 
10 or 100, but the price is right and the service in my location is 
"next day" for UPS ground shipping.   If it is screws, thimbles, brass 
rods, copper sheet, or most any other kind of hardware, that is the 
place to go IMHO.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/9/2011 12:41 PM, edevelope...@yahoo.com wrote:
> Phil, a big thanks to you for this information!
>
> I do have stainless screws in my K3, but the black coating on several of them 
> wasn't good from the beginning, and now 18 months later they have a 
> pure-stainless appearance, though the rig has never left my NJ QTH. It was 
> mildly bothersome as a purely cosmetic issue, but not worth pestering 
> Elecraft about, given their incomparable service to me on other items.
>
> So I can now get 100 at a reasonable cost and replace those few and also 
> stainless-ize my P3.
>
> I also discovered a number of other hard-to-find items at McMaster-Carr, too.
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[Elecraft] Rusting Screws

[edevelope...@yahoo.com]

Phil, a big thanks to you for this information!

I do have stainless screws in my K3, but the black coating on several of them 
wasn't good from the beginning, and now 18 months later they have a 
pure-stainless appearance, though the rig has never left my NJ QTH. It was 
mildly bothersome as a purely cosmetic issue, but not worth pestering Elecraft 
about, given their incomparable service to me on other items.

So I can now get 100 at a reasonable cost and replace those few and also 
stainless-ize my P3.

I also discovered a number of other hard-to-find items at McMaster-Carr, too. 
My 1965-vintage home has some zinc/steel bridle rings on the siding that now 
route CATV coax, and I looked everywhere for these as I wanted more of them. 
These have a wood-screw end and a split ring that makes it easy to put coax 
into and take the coax out of them.

Lo and behold, 1-inch bridle rings at McMaster-Carr, 3/16" X 1" Length Wood 
Screw Thread, 1" Ring ID, packs of 10, $4.68/pack, part number 1706T31. They 
have larger sizes too and are available with or without plastic inserts.

I also found a constant-tension t-bolt hose clamp for my weedeater there, but 
that's another story.

Add me to the list of those who agree that stainless hardware should become 
standard issue as is befitting of all of the fine Elecraft gear. 

73 de Tyler, KC2LST


-
FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster Carr. 
Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and KPA500.

Phil - AD5X 
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Re: [Elecraft] No Voice

[Natan Huffman]

Thanks to all and especially Tony K2SG who knew exactly what to do.

73

Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR

On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 10:59 AM, Natan Huffman  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Just received a new K3 and I can't seem to get it to transmit any of the
> voice modes.  I have done the following:
>
> Upgraded firmware as instructed, Verified both VFO's are on USB or LSB,
> enabled the Front Panel connector, Verified all CONFIG files.  Any other
> ideas to get SSB out of the K3/  CW works perfectly and I'm using a factory
> Elecraft microphone too and with the factory mic, I do not get anything at
> all.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
> Freeville, NY
>
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[Elecraft] mush in the ear of the beholder

[Tony Estep]

I subscribe to a group dedicated to the other "gold standard" DX
radio. Here is a paraphrase of a query that was sent to that group
from a DX station after the CQWW. The station had radio X at the main
position, and a K3 at the multiplier position:

...all the operators complained about the signals in heavy pile-ups on
CW on the low bands. It was very difficult to distinguish the
different signals.
They told me that it was easier to work the pileups with the K3

I'm sure this won't change anybody's mind about anything, butI'm just sayin'

73, Tony KT0NY




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Re: [Elecraft] kx3 and sdr software

[Edward R. Cole]

For simple receive-only SDR sw this will work as most have a 
soundcard interface option, but I still see a problem controlling the 
KX3 VFO, mode changing, and transmitter Keying without sw dependent 
drivers for the KX3.  This is definitely out of my expertise but 
based on getting new hardware to work with certain SDR programs.

I'm not saying it can't be done; I am saying a computer programmer 
will have make a KX3 driver for some SDR sw out there.  LP-Pan is the 
most simple of SDR and is not tuned and is receive-only.  Spectravue 
controls the frequency in the SDR-IQ via USB.  I can use Spectravue 
for the LP-Pan because the only connection needed is the soundcard 
(which Spectravue supports).  But without a driver I still don't see 
how Spectravue can control the KX3.  You say CAT (that's not a 
universal standard, is it?).

I'm sure, in time, that sw programmers will support interfacing to 
the KX3 from many of the SDR programs out there.  Initially, many do 
support soundcard input as long as the KX3 VFO manually tuned and 
transmitter manually keyed.

An example is JT-65 which probably will work if the KX3 support use 
of RTS or DTR for keying PTT as modulation is via the soundcard and 
reception is via a soundcard.  Probably most of the psk and rtty 
programs will work for the same reason.

Linrad is complicated.  It will work for receive-only but when 
combined with MAP-65 there is rig-control and I am uncertain that 
will work with out a specific driver being added for MAP-65.

I have not used PowerSDR so cannot speculate on it.

Like I already said this is outside my expertise, so just a guess.

73, Ed - KL7UW
--

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 2011 19:02:26 -0600
From: Tony Estep 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] kx3 and sdr software
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

If I understand it correctly, the KX3 puts out I-Q audio that can go
directly into a sound card, and has an RS232 port that can go directly to a
CAT connection on a computer.

Some SDR hardware receivers or transceivers interface with SDR programs via
USB to control frequency. An example is the Softrock Ensemble, which uses a
Si570 chip to generate the local oscillator frequency. The Si570 is tuned
via a USB connection which in turn is linked to a program like Rocky by a
driver. The Softrock does not have CAT control, and Rocky will not send CAT
commands.

But for the KX3, none of this is relevant. No drivers are needed. It will
be exactly like hooking up LP-Pan, which just needs a sound card and a
serial connection.

Tony KT0NY


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[VE3GNO/YO3GJC Daniel]

The 5% accuracy of the wattmeter is not constant over the entire range from the 
1st division of the scale coresponding to 1W or so to last 100W and can 
variate, they say is up to 5%. Now where is the best precision hard to say but 
might be in the middle range or full scale.


VE3GNO/YO3GJC Daniel



From: Eugene Balinski 
To: n...@nf4l.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, December 9, 2011 10:32:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

>From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
**full scale** rating according to Bird.  Full scale
rating, is the rating on the slug.  

That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
accuracy is +/- 5W (5%).  So, if your wattmeter is reading
50W, the actual RF power could actually be 45 or 55 W

73
K1NR


On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:08:55 -0500
Mike  wrote:
> Wait.
> 
> Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the
> real power would be between 
> 95 and 105 watts, right?
> If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would
> fall in a range of less than 45 
> to 55 watts?
> 
> Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did
> I misunderstand what you said?
> 
> 73, Mike NF4L
> 
> 
> On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> > The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of
> the
> > full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5
> Watts.
> >    So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0
> registered
> > on the meter, the meter is still within its rated
> accuracy.
> >
> >
> > Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter
> scale
> > end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
> > would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
> > meter range, which means that one would want a 10W
> slug.
> >  Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W
>  HF
> > slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
> >
> > 73
> > K1NR
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
> >  Nate Bargmann  wrote:
> >> > From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
> >> element leads to
> >> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate
> when
> >> the reading is
> >> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
> >> element (is that
> >> even available?) would be ideal provided no more than
> 5W
> >> is put through
> >> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
> >> provide a safety
> >> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have
> both
> >> elements and
> >> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one
> for
> >> a final check.
> >>
> >> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
> >>
> >> -- 
> >>
> >> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of
> all
> >> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
> >>
> >> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
> >>
> 
> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] No Voice

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

You need to turn the bias on.  push the 2 button while setting the mic 
for front panel.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/9/2011 8:59 AM, Natan Huffman wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Just received a new K3 and I can't seem to get it to transmit any of the
> voice modes.  I have done the following:
>
> Upgraded firmware as instructed, Verified both VFO's are on USB or LSB,
> enabled the Front Panel connector, Verified all CONFIG files.  Any other
> ideas to get SSB out of the K3/  CW works perfectly and I'm using a factory
> Elecraft microphone too and with the factory mic, I do not get anything at
> all.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
> Freeville, NY
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[Elecraft] No Voice

[Natan Huffman]

Hello,

Just received a new K3 and I can't seem to get it to transmit any of the
voice modes.  I have done the following:

Upgraded firmware as instructed, Verified both VFO's are on USB or LSB,
enabled the Front Panel connector, Verified all CONFIG files.  Any other
ideas to get SSB out of the K3/  CW works perfectly and I'm using a factory
Elecraft microphone too and with the factory mic, I do not get anything at
all.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
Freeville, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] K3-Twin with Remoterig

[W0SD Ed Gray]

Hi Mitch,
I certainly have some things to learn. There really is not a lot of 
detail on how the "paths" work but Mike from Microbit is very helpful.  
What is was trying to say for logging/control with say TRX Manager is 
that I can do it two ways.

First way uses my laptop COM1 and set USB to COM0 to YES.
Second way uses my laptop set to the Virtual port for COM1 and I set USB 
to COM1  YES and USB to COM0 and USB to COM2 to NO

I will have to try what you say in regards to to mode-6 etc.  In  the 
manual mode-6 did not seem to apply to logging/control with say TRX 
Manager at all but says  such as antenna switching control. Apparently 
you are telling me I can do logging/control with say TRX Manager this way.

I also heard an exciting thing this morning from Mike at Microbit and he 
gave me a download URL. As I understand it with this version I can  use 
the TWINS or just use remote control with very little changes, ie just 
one K3. There are a lot of advantages to this and certainly increases 
the flexibility a good deal. It will not be as important when the 
Hardware radio panel interface shows up and if it is at a price that 
people will want to spend.  However I think it will always be important 
for flexibility to be able to operate remotely with a TWIN(eventually a 
hardware radio panel interface) with the Microbit Control RCC box or 
just with the computer and control RCC box and make changing between 
them very easily so as you say it just makes it even more feasible for a 
number of people to share one fully equipped K3 at a very good site with 
good antennas as a relatively low cost per user.  I think a big key to 
this is to not have to do much reconfiguring as the control goes from 
one person to another and they can use a K3 or a hardware radio panel 
interface, just a computer with say TRX Manager, etc.

Thanks for your continued help Mitch!  I think people thinking about 
using the K3 remotely can do so with confidence that there is plenty of 
help in getting things working and already in just a few days it has 
gotten a lot easier.

Ed W0SD

On 12/9/2011 6:35 AM, Mitch Wolfson DJØQN wrote:
> Hi Ed,
>
> Thanks for letting us know about your experiences with the Elecraft 
> Twin firmware.
>
> As you know, I have been testing this for a couple of months now and 
> have been very impressed. There are a couple of bugs on the K3 
> firmware side that I am sure will be resolved soon, but this is not 
> top priority.we are all waiting for the KX3 firmware to be 
> completed! ;-)
>
> The details about the cables is actually well documented in the 
> RemoteRig manual; there are schematics for all the cables in that 
> section. Of course, someone may of course choose to buy a cable set, 
> but you can make your own if you wish. The most important custom cable 
> is the one that allows powering-on the remote K3 when you power-on 
> locally, since the K3 does not allow one to turn it on by using a CAT 
> command.
>
> Where I disagree with you is your comment about having to set COM1 to 
> USB. I have never experienced a  need to do so, and indeed have none 
> of my serial ports set to USB mode (although of course I could switch 
> COM1 to USB for CAT if I wanted to).
>
> I run COM2 as "logical parallel with COM0" as per the manual, as well 
> as COM1 in mode-6 (CAT to COM2). This allows one to use CAT both on 
> the remote PC without any wiring change when operating locally, as 
> well as CAT over the remote RRC. Of course, then you can't use COM1 
> for rotor or other control, but there are other solutions for that.
>
> The K3/0 will be a killer for high-performance remote 
> stations..the current most popular rig with a separate control 
> head used by RemoteRig installations is the TS-480. The Elecraft 
> solution will allow the same type of flexible (hardware based) 
> experience for multiple remote users, by sharing one fully equipped K3 
> at relatively low cost per user, but providing significantly better 
> performance than the TS-480 provides.
>
> Anyone that is interested in remote operation using a hardware radio 
> panel interface should be very excited about this new offering from 
> Elecraft and Microbit.
>
> 73,
> Mitch DJ0QN
>
> On 09.12.2011 05:09, W0SD Ed Gray wrote:
>> I have the Elecraft "TWIN" setup working with the Microbit control and
>> remote boxes. The instructions in the Micorbit RRC-1258 MII manual are
>> pretty good. The URL is www.remoterig.com. The one thing that is not
>> clear IMHO is the last line of the setup for the K3 TWIN:
>> COM2 Mode listed as Logical Parallel with COM0 is not in the radio
>> settings but are in the Serial settings and are for both the control and
>> remote(radio) boxes.
>>
>> It is also not mentioned that USB used as COM0 should be YES under the
>> Control Radio Settings and USB used as COM1 and USB used as COM2 should
>> be NO.
>>
>> One thing I missed without going over things a second time is that the
>> cable between the Control bo

Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Eugene Balinski]

>From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
**full scale** rating according to Bird.  Full scale
rating, is the rating on the slug.  

That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
accuracy is +/- 5W (5%).   So, if your wattmeter is reading
50W, the actual RF power could actually be 45 or 55 W

73
K1NR


On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:08:55 -0500
 Mike  wrote:
> Wait.
> 
> Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the
> real power would be between 
> 95 and 105 watts, right?
> If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would
> fall in a range of less than 45 
> to 55 watts?
> 
> Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did
> I misunderstand what you said?
> 
> 73, Mike NF4L
> 
> 
> On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> > The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of
> the
> > full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5
> Watts.
> >So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0
> registered
> > on the meter, the meter is still within its rated
> accuracy.
> >
> >
> > Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter
> scale
> > end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
> > would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
> > meter range, which means that one would want a 10W
> slug.
> >   Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W
>  HF
> > slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
> >
> > 73
> > K1NR
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
> >   Nate Bargmann  wrote:
> >> > From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
> >> element leads to
> >> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate
> when
> >> the reading is
> >> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
> >> element (is that
> >> even available?) would be ideal provided no more than
> 5W
> >> is put through
> >> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
> >> provide a safety
> >> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have
> both
> >> elements and
> >> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one
> for
> >> a final check.
> >>
> >> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
> >>
> >> -- 
> >>
> >> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of
> all
> >> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
> >>
> >> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
> >>
> 
> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

Thanks.

I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover screws.

They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.

The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit 
not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/9/2011 5:28 AM, Phil & Debbie Salas wrote:
> FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster Carr.
> Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and KPA500.
>
> Phil - AD5X
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Aux cable for KPA500

[Jim Sheldon]

The AUX cable is necessary if you want the K3 to set the proper drive level to 
the KPA500 when you switch it to OPERATE and revert to 100 watts (or whatever 
other power you had set) when you switch the KPA500 back to STANDBY or turn it 
off.  The RS-232 connection on the amp is used only for updates to the internal 
firmware and not to communicate with the K3.

If you don't use other features that are available on the K3's AUX connector, 
you could build up a cable yourself, but DO NOT use a computer VGA MONITOR 
cable as it's wired differently and won't work properly according to the KPA500 
manual.

I like the Y connection as I do use the AUX connection on the K3 for direct FSK 
and PTT input from my RTTY program.  That way I can keep the K3 in FSK-D and 
run the CW paddles for a quick DX QSO if I don't want to start up MMTTY for a 
more detailed RTTY operation.  If I do run MMTTY, I don't have to swap modes on 
the K3 since I'm already in FSK-D mode rather than AFSK (FSK-A).

Jim - W0EB


> Have most of been ordering the aux cable with the amp? I'm just
> trying to see
> if it's worth having.
>
> 73, John N1JM
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Aux-cable-for-KPA500-
> tp7078405p7078405.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Aux cable for KPA500

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

Yes.  It allows quite a bit of flexibility.  If the amp is in standby 
the radio can be set to 100w out.  When the amp is in OPER mode the 
radio will lower the power to the output of your choosing.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 12/9/2011 7:39 AM, John_N1JM wrote:
> Have most of been ordering the aux cable with the amp? I'm just trying to see
> if it's worth having.
>
> 73, John N1JM
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
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> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Aux cable for KPA500

[John_N1JM]

Have most of been ordering the aux cable with the amp? I'm just trying to see
if it's worth having.

73, John N1JM

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

You read it right.  A newly calibrated Bird slug (how many hams have 
recently calibrated Bird wattmeters and slugs?) is specified to have an 
accuracy of 5% OF FULL SCALE.  So yes, a 100 watt slug can be in error 
by as much as 5 watts - anywhere on the scale.  A reading of 50 watts 
indicates a power somewhere between 45 and 55 watts. a reading of 25 
watts indicates a power somewhere between 20 and 30 watts, and a reading 
of 10 watts indicates a power somewhere between 5 watts and 15 watts.

In other words, use a Bird slug that is close to the power level that 
you are trying to measure, and consider how long it has been since that 
meter and slug have been calibrated before making any absolute 
statements about the power accuracy.

BTW, you can use the "RF voltage across a precision dummy load" to 
calibrate your wattmeter (at any power level).  Doing that on a periodic 
basis will give you faith in the integrity of your measurement tools.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/9/2011 9:08 AM, Mike wrote:
> Wait.
>
> Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the real power would be 
> between
> 95 and 105 watts, right?
> If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would fall in a range of less 
> than 45
> to 55 watts?
>
> Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did I misunderstand 
> what you said?
>
> 73, Mike NF4L
>
>
> On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
>> The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of the
>> full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5 Watts.
>> So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0 registered
>> on the meter, the meter is still within its rated accuracy.
>>
>>
>> Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter scale
>> end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
>> would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
>> meter range, which means that one would want a 10W slug.
>>Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W  HF
>> slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
>>
>> 73
>> K1NR
>>
>>
>> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
>>Nate Bargmann   wrote:
  From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
>>> element leads to
>>> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate when
>>> the reading is
>>> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
>>> element (is that
>>> even available?) would be ideal provided no more than 5W
>>> is put through
>>> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
>>> provide a safety
>>> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have both
>>> elements and
>>> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one for
>>> a final check.
>>>
>>> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
>>> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
>>>
>>> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
>>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Mike]

Meant to say:

If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would fall in a range of less 
than 47.5
to 52.5 watts?


On 12/9/2011 9:08 AM, Mike wrote:
> Wait.
>
> Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the real power would be 
> between
> 95 and 105 watts, right?
> If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would fall in a range of less 
> than 45
> to 55 watts?
>
> Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did I misunderstand 
> what you said?
>
> 73, Mike NF4L
>
>
> On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
>> The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of the
>> full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5 Watts.
>> So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0 registered
>> on the meter, the meter is still within its rated accuracy.
>>
>>
>> Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter scale
>> end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
>> would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
>> meter range, which means that one would want a 10W slug.
>>Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W  HF
>> slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
>>
>> 73
>> K1NR
>>
>>
>> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
>>Nate Bargmann   wrote:
  From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
>>> element leads to
>>> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate when
>>> the reading is
>>> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
>>> element (is that
>>> even available?) would be ideal provided no more than 5W
>>> is put through
>>> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
>>> provide a safety
>>> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have both
>>> elements and
>>> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one for
>>> a final check.
>>>
>>> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
>>> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
>>>
>>> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
>>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Mike]

Wait.

Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the real power would be 
between 
95 and 105 watts, right?
If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would fall in a range of less 
than 45 
to 55 watts?

Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy.  Or did I misunderstand what 
you said?

73, Mike NF4L


On 12/8/2011 11:59 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> The accuracy of Bird elements is typically  +/- 5% of the
> full scale value.  For a 100 W Slug, that is +/- 5 Watts.
>So theoretically speaking, with 5W in, and 0 registered
> on the meter, the meter is still within its rated accuracy.
>
>
> Additionally on the model 43 meter, there is meter scale
> end compression.  To get the most accurate reading, one
> would want to have the 5W reading at the middle of the
> meter range, which means that one would want a 10W slug.
>   Unfortunately I do not believe that Bird makes a 10W  HF
> slug any more.  Perhaps they need an Elecraft W2 ??
>
> 73
> K1NR
>
>
> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:47:27 -0600
>   Nate Bargmann  wrote:
>> > From my experience, trying to measure 5W with a 100W
>> element leads to
>> very inaccurate readings.  The Bird is most accurate when
>> the reading is
>> as near to full scale as possible.  That means a 5W HF
>> element (is that
>> even available?) would be ideal provided no more than 5W
>> is put through
>> the meter.  A 10W element would be less accurate but
>> provide a safety
>> margin for the meter.  Even better would be to have both
>> elements and
>> use the 10W one to get in the ballpark and the 5W one for
>> a final check.
>>
>> 73, de Nate N0NB>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> "The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
>> possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
>>
>> Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
>>


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 update

[Cortland Richmond]

You are assuming that the choking impedance is what the transmission 
line used for a winding sees; THAT is always whatever impedance the SWR 
presents.  The 2500 Ohm choking impedance is only seen by current on the 
outside of the cable, a good deal less power (thus voltage) than what is 
inside.   It need only be insulated enough to prevent arcing from output 
to adjacent turns.

Cheers!

Cortland
KA5S

On 12/8/201116:43 n09e wrote:
> Imagine choke constructed with RG174 looped through a toroid 10 times.  Also
> imagine output resitstance 2500 Ohms and 100W power.
>
> On input, RG174 has a peak voltage of 100V. No problem.
>
> On output, RG174 has a peak voltage of 1000V. It would melt in seconds.
>
> What is wrong here? Assumptions?
>
> Ignacy

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[Elecraft] Remote Rig

[Ed Caplan]

Any plans to place the remote rig control hardware in a K3 box? This would 
allow a lot of flexibility.


Ed  W3CC
  
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

To set everything to factory defaults, do an EEINIT.  I suggest saving 
your configuration first using K3Utility just in case you want to go 
back to whatever you had.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/9/2011 5:22 AM, Bill McDowell wrote:
> Lots of great information in this thread, but no answer for TJ yet.
>
> "is there a way to reset it to the
> factory setting?"
>
> 73
> Bill, K4CIA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 update

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

May I add to Don's comment by noting that other benefits to be gained from 
the use of a properly designed link coupled tuner (we used to call them 
Antenna Matching Units or AMUs) are:

1) This type of tuner being a bandpass circuit helps to reduce the level of 
unwanted signals reaching the receiver, e.g. Medium and Shortwave broadcast 
signals, which if not  reduced in level could result in receiver 
generated intermodulation products being heard. This type of tuner also 
reduces the level of the transmitter's harmonics reaching the  antenna.

2) That if a ferrite or iron cored balun (sorry Jim) is used with this type 
of tuner, it would be placed in the link circuit where the impedance is 50 
+j0 ohms - or close to this value, and   it would not be exposed to 
large values of reactance.

3) Placing a balun at the end of a feeder exposes the balun to all of the 
signals arriving down the feeder, which in some situations could be strong 
e.g. Medium Wave and / or  Shortwave BC signals. This could result in 
numerous intermodulation products being generated by the balun's core, some 
of which might end up in our bands. One has to careful
as well that a ferrite/ iron cored balun connected to the feeder or 
antenna's feedpoint does not increase the level of radiated transmitter 
harmonics.

73,
Geoff
LX2AO



On Dec.09, 2011 at 3:53 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


> For those who want a really high efficiency balanced tuner, go to ARRL
> publications back several years to find a link coupled tuner.

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[Elecraft] KPA 500 pops

[r miles]

I get an occasional mild pop but not the loud pops as others report. 
Mine was factory built. The noises are nothing like hearing a spider or 
ant getting zapped in the old SB 220. Actually the clicks remind me the 
amp is on. It's so quiet otherwise.

K9IL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3-Twin with Remoterig

[Mitch Wolfson DJØQN]

Hi Ed,

Thanks for letting us know about your experiences with the Elecraft Twin 
firmware.

As you know, I have been testing this for a couple of months now and 
have been very impressed. There are a couple of bugs on the K3 firmware 
side that I am sure will be resolved soon, but this is not top 
priority.we are all waiting for the KX3 firmware to be completed! ;-)

The details about the cables is actually well documented in the 
RemoteRig manual; there are schematics for all the cables in that 
section. Of course, someone may of course choose to buy a cable set, but 
you can make your own if you wish. The most important custom cable is 
the one that allows powering-on the remote K3 when you power-on locally, 
since the K3 does not allow one to turn it on by using a CAT command.

Where I disagree with you is your comment about having to set COM1 to 
USB. I have never experienced a  need to do so, and indeed have none of 
my serial ports set to USB mode (although of course I could switch COM1 
to USB for CAT if I wanted to).

I run COM2 as "logical parallel with COM0" as per the manual, as well as 
COM1 in mode-6 (CAT to COM2). This allows one to use CAT both on the 
remote PC without any wiring change when operating locally, as well as 
CAT over the remote RRC. Of course, then you can't use COM1 for rotor or 
other control, but there are other solutions for that.

The K3/0 will be a killer for high-performance remote stations..the 
current most popular rig with a separate control head used by RemoteRig 
installations is the TS-480. The Elecraft solution will allow the same 
type of flexible (hardware based) experience for multiple remote users, 
by sharing one fully equipped K3 at relatively low cost per user, but 
providing significantly better performance than the TS-480 provides.

Anyone that is interested in remote operation using a hardware radio 
panel interface should be very excited about this new offering from 
Elecraft and Microbit.

73,
Mitch DJ0QN

On 09.12.2011 05:09, W0SD Ed Gray wrote:
> I have the Elecraft "TWIN" setup working with the Microbit control and
> remote boxes. The instructions in the Micorbit RRC-1258 MII manual are
> pretty good. The URL is www.remoterig.com. The one thing that is not
> clear IMHO is the last line of the setup for the K3 TWIN:
> COM2 Mode listed as Logical Parallel with COM0 is not in the radio
> settings but are in the Serial settings and are for both the control and
> remote(radio) boxes.
>
> It is also not mentioned that USB used as COM0 should be YES under the
> Control Radio Settings and USB used as COM1 and USB used as COM2 should
> be NO.
>
> One thing I missed without going over things a second time is that the
> cable between the Control box COM2 and the K3 CAT is a cross over. The
> cable between the remote box COM2 and the K3 CAT on the remote K3 is a
> straight cable.
>
> The Microbit documentation never talks about the information from
> Elecraft on getting in and out of the TERM mode. This was necessary for
> me to get things working. Once it is running then it happens
> automatically unless you get out of TERM and back to NORM.
> You need the cables as describe in the Microbit documentation.
>
> It is very impressive and works "SUPER" and makes remoting over the
> Internet or over LAN a breeze once you get by some lack of documentation.
>
> For logging/control one can use say COM1 from your computer and a serial
> cable to COM1 on the Control Microbit box. These settings are discussed
> under Logging or computer control, RTTY etc. in the Microbit manual but
> IMHO they are not complete. If you want to use a serial cable between
> your computer for logging and control and use say COM 1 out of your
> computer. Set your logging control program to the same in this case COM1
> and be sure the baud rate is the same everyplace. You still leave USB to
> COM0 as YES. Be sure to do what the Micorbit manual says in regards to
> the mode 7 settings.
>
> If you want to use your USB cable to the RCC control unit for
> logging/control and not have a serial cable then you have to set USB to
> COM0 to NO and set USB to COM1 to YES and set your logging/control for
> the virtual COM port that your computer has for COM 1 if that is what
> you are using.
>
> REMEMBER TO APPLY YOUR SETTINGS and not just SUBMIT!!!
>
> If you want to control a K3 remotely using the Microbit boxes, ie not
> use two K3's but just the remote one I have documented that in the
> Microbit forum and how to control one rotor and do CW. I have RTTY to do
> yet and control of rotors and antenna switching outside the Microbit
> boxes. You can do virtually everything with TXR manager in regards to
> controlling the K3.
>
> The "TWIN set up is very nice but you have to spend the money for a
> second K3. This makes the prospect of a K3 (0)with no RF that Eric
> mentioned very interesting! It would be nice to have something less
> valuable and smaller to carry with you and most things are a 

Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws

[Phil & Debbie Salas]

FWIW - I bought #4x1/4" SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster Carr. 
Price is $3.91/100.  Part number 96640A054.  I use them on my K3 and KPA500.

Phil - AD5X 

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Re: [Elecraft] Dear Santa

[David Windisch]

Izzat the one with the 3K DWIM!! buttons, knobs and macros?
MC&HNY,
Dave, N3HE

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[Elecraft] Rusting screws

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Mike,
 
Totally agreed and you express better than I am.  Under a bulk purchase, the 
provision of SS screws as a standard (not optional) would cost minimal extra 
especially when compared with the high value purchase of Elecraft radios.
 
Whether it is "giving something not really needed" or "having a choice of 
something not needed" is NOT an issue at all.

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC



 從︰ W0MU Mike Fatchett 
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
傳送日期︰ 2011年12月8日 (週四) 11:26 PM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Rusting screws
 
I agree with most of the others,  SS need to be the standard.  These  
rigs are expensive.  Top of the line rigs and amps should not be rusting 
away after a week.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 built - can I reset the 5w calibration?

[Bill McDowell]

Lots of great information in this thread, but no answer for TJ yet.

"is there a way to reset it to the
factory setting?"

73
Bill, K4CIA  
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun on tuner input?

[Ken]

On Dec 8, 2011, at 10:51 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:

> The disadvantage of putting the balun at the input is that none of the
> tuner circuitry can be grounded.  For example, the control shafts of the
> variable capacitors have RF voltage on them, so the knobs must be
> isolated.  


If you have the balun on the input to the tuner, can you have ANY SO-239 
outputs and still be balanced? Or it it limited to balanced line output ONLY 
(e.g. open wire or ladder line), no coax outputs?

Ken
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