[Elecraft] [K3] Tokyo Hy-Power HL-1.2KFX amp interfacing (to ALC or not to ALC?)

[John Shadle]

I'm considering adding a THP HL-1.2KFX solid state amp to the K3S station I
have, and was wondering how others have done this. There seems to be
conflicting info on the "right way" to do things.

1. The THP manual states that ALC should be used to control the amp, but
2. Elecraft support (and documents) suggest that ALC should not be used for
any amps.

Of course, that begs the question "Why is ALC included at all on the
K3/K3S?", but...anyway.

Elecraft support suggested I ask the reflector what other folks do, so I
am. Looking forward to your replies.

Thanks!
-john NE4U
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: E-Bay charges

[John Shadle]

Hi Ken,
I think you must have an eBay Store, because that is the only way fees
could be that low. In that case, you have to pay a monthly "Store fee" to
get that rate. If you are doing high volume, that makes sense.

http://pages.ebay.com/sellerinformation/stores/Subscriptions.html

For the regular user, having a store doesn't make sense. Fees for regular
folks are 10% on the final value of the auction price (more if you have a
reserve price or other options). Plus, PayPal takes ~3% off the transaction
off the top. Then, eBay takes 10% of the amount of shipping you charge, too
(!).

http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/fees.html

If a regular seller (not someone with a Store) can get away with not using
PayPal, I'd love to know how. I'm not saying it can't be done -- but I
guess I haven't figured that one out yet. ;-)

-john NE4U


On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 10:53 AM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Hi John!
>
> I have a 100% rating for about 200 transactions and AFIK, E-Bay's fee is a
> bit less that 4% and PayPal use is not a condition of use.
>
> Virtually all of Rose's case and cover orders are paid via PayPal.  Never
> had a problem.
>
> 73
>
> K0PP
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Place to Sell Equipment?

[John Shadle]

I've done business on eBay, eham.net classifieds, and swap.qth.com boards.
All have yielded acceptable results. I've never been burned at any of them
as a seller.

I recently sold my K3 on eBay, but would've preferred to sell it on eham.net
or swap.qth.com. eBay, as you know, takes about 15% off the top (including
the required use of PayPal). So, figure on that...

The fellow who bought my K3 on eBay could've received a hefty discount if
he had bought it from my eham.net or swap.qth.com listing, as the price
there was 15% less. His loss! ;-)

73
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] RESOLVED (was: acceptable network switch (aka Linksys produces birdies))

[John Shadle]

I don't want to say it was the Linksys network switch -- but "it was the
Linksys network switch".

Just replaced it with a Netgear switch with a metal enclosure (GS305, for
those keeping score at home). Plugged it in, plugged in the network devices
(VoIP phone, laptop), and went downstairs to scan the bands for potential
issues. The Linksys, as you may remember, produced noise every 30kHz or so
on 40m (worst) and also on other bands. It was S9+ noise. Really
irritating. The Netgear produces no such noise on 40m or any other band
that I can discern.

So, it's nice to have this resolved without having to re-wire the entire
house or search out another part to replace. :-)

Thanks for all of your help -- and I highly recommend the Netgear GS305 if
you are looking for a 5 port network switch!

73
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] data modes (USB/LSB or DATA) using KIO3B sound card interface

[John Shadle]

I looked in the K3S manual, and the instructions on setting up data modes
(p. 33) fail to mention the use of the KIO3B internal sound card. Are there
instructions (erratum?) available on how to set up data modes (using DATA
or USB/LSB) with this new feature?

Probably a simple answer to this question -- I'm just having trouble
finding it.

Thanks!
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] KAT500 utility works -- then doesn't

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
After finishing up my K3S build with only one incident (the 400Hz filters
mysteriously not working in the new rig -- they are now at Elecraft for
testing, FYI), I am reconnecting my K3S and the rest of my station.
Finally, I got motivated to finally get my KAT500 connected to my computer!

I installed the latest version of the utility and all was good. I was able
to view the SWR and FWD/REF power as the unit trained itself (after
clearing the memories, first). Then, without warning, the utility stopped
recognizing the KAT500. The COM port is still there and it hasn't changed,
but the KAT500 is no longer found. Many options are now grayed out.

I've tried changing the COM port assignment for the KXUSB adapter, but that
does nothing. I tried removing then reinstalling the adapter, which also
results in no change.

Any ideas what is going on? Could RF have somehow gotten into the
controller in the KAT500 to make it not respond to the KXUSB polling?

The KAT500 still tunes as usual, but I'm just not able to access the unit
at all via the computer interface.

Thanks for your help.
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] closing out some K3S issues ("failed" 400Hz filters, failed KXUSB)

[John Shadle]

OK. I have to come clean and admit that despite more hours with a soldering
iron than I would care to count, I made a major error when I completed my
recent K3S build.

You know that REF CAL procedure where you zero beat WWV? Well... let's just
say that I somehow managed to set the oscillator to a value way out of the
expected range.

I swear I heard that slow beat note about 2Hz away from where the value
should have been, but now I don't know how. I re-did the REF CAL procedure
using 15MHz WWV today, and now things are hunky dory. The gents at Elecraft
provided too much kind support to help figure out my problem and I hope
they can forgive me for the time of theirs I wasted. :-)

Now, as for the KXUSB not communicating with my KAT500 -- that one is still
a mystery, but it appears to be an issue with a KXUSB instead of the KAT500
(whew!). I crafted a serial to stereo cable to connect the KAT500 to my
computer, and things worked just fine the first time. I hate to use that
serial port for this, but I may have to as the KXUSB is out of warranty
(purchased November 2014) despite its first use being last night. Ah well.

Thanks for listening, and I hope that this can be a lesson to each of you.
Take time on your builds. Don't stay up too late, or do things when you're
tired -- or you might completely mess up the REF CAL procedure and cause
your narrow filters to "fail".

73
-john NE4U
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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[John Shadle]

I tried putting loads of mix 31 toroids on the lines, and it did very
little. I'm wondering of moving to gigabit will change things.

I tried using different power supplies I had on hand, but those had
absolutely no effect on the noise. It's coming from the network switch.

-john NE4U
On Feb 6, 2016 11:24 AM, "Larry Gauthier (K8UT)" <k...@charter.net> wrote:

> John
>
> I think I have been mis-understood; or perhaps I mis-spoke. ;-)
>
> I could not migrate to gigabit ethernet from 10 MBPS because the CAT5
> cable I was using only had two available pairs. I replaced the CAT5 with
> CAT6 with 4 available pairs, but that alone would not have solved my birdie
> problem. The real "fix" was in the move from 10 -> 1000. I do not believe
> that changing cables alone will solve your problem.
>
> -larry (K8UT)
> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
> Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 10:14 AM
> To: David Ahrendts
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
> Linksysproduces birdies)
>
> Thank, all. I may have to look into that. It may just involve changing out
> some runs of the cable. I used either CAT5 or CAT5e in all my runs. Just
> odd that the noise is coming from the one location and not the others,
> though. Ah well!
>
> -john NE4U
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:15 AM, David Ahrendts <davidahren...@me.com>
> wrote:
>
> John, I’ll concur with Larry. I have several D-Link gigabit switches using
>> CAT6 cable with no apparent noise, and I believe their “green” technology
>> actually shuts off unused ports when not in use. Amazon.
>>
>> David A., KK6DA, LA
>>
>> On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) <k...@charter.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> John,
>>
>> I had a similar situation here with a LinkSys switch. Tried a NetGear
>> switch and the birdies moved - but were still present. Solved the problem
>> by moving all networked devices from cat5 10 mb to cat6 1000t gigabit
>> ethernet.
>>
>> -larry (K8UT)
>> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
>> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
>> Linksysproduces birdies)
>>
>> I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
>> tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 20-30Hz
>> on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
>> with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 birdies".
>> I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies
>> could be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!
>>
>> Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
>> being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
>> noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
>> connections to various devices (network storage, my shack computer, and
>> the
>> line that runs to my upstairs office). It just so happens that I had
>> installed a network switch recently (produced by Linksys, and on sale at
>> Best Buy last week). I unplugged the cable going to that switch, and the
>> noise went away. I then plugged it back in, and went to the office and
>> disconnected the power from the Linksys switch. Noise is gone again.
>>
>> So, I'm looking for a new network switch. Does anyone have advice on what
>> has worked for them?
>>
>> Alternately, any idea on how to get the network switch from producing
>> these
>> awful birdies?
>>
>> I'm *not* looking for a new router -- but just a switch.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> -john NE4U
>> Madison, WI
>> __
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>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>> P

Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[John Shadle]

Thank, all. I may have to look into that. It may just involve changing out
some runs of the cable. I used either CAT5 or CAT5e in all my runs. Just
odd that the noise is coming from the one location and not the others,
though. Ah well!

-john NE4U

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:15 AM, David Ahrendts <davidahren...@me.com> wrote:

> John, I’ll concur with Larry. I have several D-Link gigabit switches using
> CAT6 cable with no apparent noise, and I believe their “green” technology
> actually shuts off unused ports when not in use. Amazon.
>
> David A., KK6DA, LA
>
> On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) <k...@charter.net>
> wrote:
>
> John,
>
> I had a similar situation here with a LinkSys switch. Tried a NetGear
> switch and the birdies moved - but were still present. Solved the problem
> by moving all networked devices from cat5 10 mb to cat6 1000t gigabit
> ethernet.
>
> -larry (K8UT)
> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
> Linksysproduces birdies)
>
> I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
> tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 20-30Hz
> on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
> with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 birdies".
> I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies
> could be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!
>
> Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
> being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
> noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
> connections to various devices (network storage, my shack computer, and the
> line that runs to my upstairs office). It just so happens that I had
> installed a network switch recently (produced by Linksys, and on sale at
> Best Buy last week). I unplugged the cable going to that switch, and the
> noise went away. I then plugged it back in, and went to the office and
> disconnected the power from the Linksys switch. Noise is gone again.
>
> So, I'm looking for a new network switch. Does anyone have advice on what
> has worked for them?
>
> Alternately, any idea on how to get the network switch from producing these
> awful birdies?
>
> I'm *not* looking for a new router -- but just a switch.
>
> Thanks.
> -john NE4U
> Madison, WI
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>
>
>
>
>
> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com
>
>
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3S audio disappears with narrow filter selection

[John Shadle]

Hi,
I completed the build last night, and I am putting the rig through its
paces. I previously had a K3, so I am familiar with the menu and
configuration.

I configured the filters in the K3S as follows

FL1 - 6 kHz
FL2 - 
FL3 - 2.7kHz (-0.95 offset)
FL4 - 700 Hz (+.04 offset)
FL5 - 400 Hz

I have tuned to a strong carrier (on CW) and then progressively narrowed my
bandwidth. When I hit FL5, the audio is strongly attenuated. It basically
disappears. I thought that something was wrong with my configuration, so I
checked it again. FL5 was set for 400 Hz, which the filter in FL5 is.

I performed several experiments. Choosing the filter with the XFIL button
does the same thing. Audio is present with FL3 (2.7kHz) and FL4 (700Hz),
but gone with FL5 (400Hz).

Then, I went into the firmware and changed the bandwidth of FL5 to a
narrower value (e.g. 250 Hz). I returned to listening to the audio and
using XFIL produced the same results as before; however, when I tuned down
from 700Hz to 400Hz, the audio was still there. When I went to 300Hz it was
still there -- but it disappeared at 250 Hz (as I had set the filter's
bandwidth in the firmware). Help!

There's gotta be something simple but critical I'm missing...somewhere.

Before you suggest it -- yes, I have tried to up the dB of the filter
compensation for FL5 (400Hz). I increased it to the highest value, and the
signal is still basically gone -- but maybe slightly higher.

-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksys produces birdies)

[John Shadle]

I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 20-30Hz
on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 birdies".
I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies
could be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!

Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
connections to various devices (network storage, my shack computer, and the
line that runs to my upstairs office). It just so happens that I had
installed a network switch recently (produced by Linksys, and on sale at
Best Buy last week). I unplugged the cable going to that switch, and the
noise went away. I then plugged it back in, and went to the office and
disconnected the power from the Linksys switch. Noise is gone again.

So, I'm looking for a new network switch. Does anyone have advice on what
has worked for them?

Alternately, any idea on how to get the network switch from producing these
awful birdies?

I'm *not* looking for a new router -- but just a switch.

Thanks.
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3DVR question - output to computer via KIO3B?

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
Looking at the manual, this isn't clear, so I'm going to ask here.

If you record a QSO using the K3DVR, for example, is there any way to get
that file to a computer (and off the K3 or K3DVR)? Possibly by using the
KIO3B USB output?

Thanks!
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: K3/100 + new synth + ATU

[John Shadle]

Had a couple of bites, but nothing firm yet.

K3
- 2.7 kHz 5-pole SSB/CW filter
- 100W PA (KPA3)
- 100W ATU (KAT3)
- KXV3A - transverter/receive antenna interface
- KSYN3A upgrade (new synth which is shipped with all K3S radios)

Mods have been completed to bring this up to spec. S/N 110. Non-smoking
environment, and always used as a base station -- not mobile.

Priced to move at $2150 including shipping to your QTH (lower 48 only). $50
discount for local (Madison, WI) pick-up. New K3S rigs with these features
are $3000 + shipping (!). Let's make a deal!

Prefer USPS Money Order or bank cheque. Personal checks will be held for 10
business days after deposit to clear.

Photos available at
https://www.flickr.com/photos/shadle/albums/72157663125687982

73
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: K3/100 + ATU + KSYN3A + other upgrades

[John Shadle]

I am considering upgrading to a new K3S, and I have a K3, currently.

What I am selling would be a basic model (10W) plus the 100W amplifier and
the 100W internal ATU. The stock 2.7kHz filter would be included. The
synthesizer has been upgraded to the latest version (KSYN3A) and other
hardware upgrades have been completed to make it current. A list of
upgrades completed will be included, along with full documentation.
Firmware is current. S/N is 110.

Physically, the rig is in excellent condition. There are no
scratches/dings. I am a non-smoker, and it has never been exposed to
cigarette, pipe, or cigar smoke.

For reference, a new K3S *kit* with these options, shipped from CA, would
be ~$3000 (go ahead and build it yourself on their site and check); of
course, factory built versions cost several hundred dollars more.

Asking for $2325 via PayPal (or $2250 via bank cheque or personal check
[shipped after the payment clears]). I will double box the rig and include
all of the relevant manuals.

Photos available upon request.

73
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: K3 100W w/ ATU, upgraded synth, etc.

[John Shadle]

Considering purchasing a K3S and am interested in helping someone else
realize their dream of owning an amazing rig, in the process.

K3/100 (S/N 110)
- KSYN3A (upgraded synth)
- KAT3 (100W antenna tuner)
- KBPF3 (general coverage receive filter)
- KXV3A (RX Ant, IF Out & Xvrtr Int)
- 2.7 kHz SSB/CW filter
- K3DSPUPGD (Rev. D DSP board)
- K3DSPLPF (Low Pass Filter to roll off RX audio above 4 kHz)

This K3 has received all of the recommended upgrades and is as up-to-date
(except the newly released KIO3B module) as possible. Documentation will be
provided with the transceiver of all upgrades.

Asking $2750 + actual shipping to your QTH (or local pick-up). USPS Money
Order or bank cheque/cashier's check preferred.

Works 100%. Non-smoking home, excellent physical condition, etc. Photos
available upon request.

Rig will be double-boxed and shipped via UPS.

73
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] What crystal filter do you use the most?

[John Shadle]

I am one of those folks who has the INRAD 700Hz filter (special-ordered by
the guys at UNPCBs, http://www.unpcbs.com/). I use it exclusively for
scanning the bands on CW. When I want to get tighter, I have the 400Hz
filter below that. I've found that combination works wonderfully for me.

For SSB, I just have the stock 5 pole filter. I also have the AM filter,
but only use it for SWLing.

73
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] WTB: Elecraft KPA-500

[John Shadle]

Please let me know if you are selling your KPA-500.
Thanks!
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3DVR alternatives

[John Shadle]

I use N3FJP's software, and I know he has this capability (and I have used
it in the past) to play a .wav file using a function key from your
keyboard. Easy, peasy.

Also, you might check out the Vocal Keyer by KG4JJH or the commercial
version of the same project, called the LogiTALKER by Idiom Press.

KG4JJH model - http://www.kg4jjh.com/vocalkeyer.html
Idiom model - http://www.idiompress.com/logitalker.php

I did a PCB run for the KG4JJH model a while back (4-5 years ago?), and
there is also a Yahoo! Group for support on this (but it sees little/no
traffic).

Good luck!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] NaP3 / CW Skimmer integration using only K3 as RX

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I know that I have seen a blog post by a non-US ham about doing this, but I
can't seem to locate concrete instructions on his site or elsewhere.

My setup is as follows.
- K3
- LP-Bridge to share serial ports for rig control and logging
- LP-PAN using NaP3
- E-MU 0202 USB sound card

NaP3 works fine with this setup, but I can't get CW Skimmer to load while
NaP3 is running. Once I shut down NaP3, I can run CW Skimmer with no issues.

Anyone have tips on how to use both NaP3 as well as CW Skimmer
simultaneously with this setup?

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] autotuner for K3 with AL-811 amp (KAT500 or other) / random wire antenna

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I've been enjoying using an AL-811 to help bust the pile-ups with my long
wire antenna and Dentron Super Tuner Plus (manual tuner), but would really
like to add a QRO autotuner to the mix.

Currently, my K3 and AL-811 sit on my desk. The Dentron sits about 15' away
on top of a bookshelf next to the basement window where my antenna enters
the shack (one wire for the radiator and one wire to the radial field). The
Dentron has a random wire and ground post on the rear, which makes
tuning this antenna a breeze (but I have to get out of my chair and re-tune
whenever I switch bands).

I'm considering the KAT500, but wonder how it would work for this
situation. Here are my two (please suggest more) solutions:

1. Put the KAT500 right next to the K3 and AL-811 on my desk, run a 15'
long 50 ohm line to a balun which would attach to the antenna outside my
basement window. Computer control is easy because the KAT500 and K3 are
right next to each other.
2. Put the KAT500 right next to the antenna and run a short (2-3') 50 ohm
line to a balun which would attach to the antenna outside my basement
window. A 15' line from the amp to the tuner would be required and no
computer control would be possible.

If I go with Option 1, then I am trying to match the 50 ohm line for 15'
before I get to the balun/antenna outside the window.
If I do with Option 2, then I won't be able to use the K3/KAT500 AUXBUS
features (I had emailed Elecraft support about this in the past and they
suggested not using a 15' long AUXBUS connector).

Anyone else tuning random wires with the KAT500? How do you do it?

Should I be considering another tuner altogether? I don't want to break the
bank, but I do want a workable solution.

73
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: Elecraft EC2 Enclosure

[John Shadle]

*** For Sale ***
EC2 project enclosure (unused/new)
* Includes all hardware needed to build the box
* Great if you are building a separate KAT100/KPA100 for your K2/10
* Nice size for many projects/homebrew rigs/test gear

Retail $79.95 from Elecraft + shipping
Asking $68 + shipping

Prefer payment by cashier's check or USPS Money Order. Will accept PayPal
if you are willing to pay their fees (should be $2-3 extra).

Please inquire off list.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: **another** EC2 project enclosure

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I wanted to let you know that in digging through my stuff, I found
*another* EC2 project enclosure.

The first one has sold, in case you were wondering.

Asking $68 + shipping (probably ~$7 or so for First Class postage).

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: EC2 project enclosure

[John Shadle]

*** For Sale ***
EC2 project enclosure
* Includes all hardware needed to build the box
* Great if you are building a separate KAT100/KPA100 for your K2/10

Retail $79.95 from Elecraft
Asking $68 + shipping

Prefer payment by cashier's check or USPS Money Order. Will accept PayPal
if you are willing to pay their fees (should be $2-3 extra).

Please inquire off list.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] KRX3 rave

[John Shadle]

Possibly the best option for the K3 (beyond a good set of filters) has to
be the KRX3 sub receiver, in my opinion.

I have found this especially helpful in quickly and easily finding the
worked station for split operations. With all of the W1AW/x operations this
year--most of them running split--being able to listen to them in one ear
and search for the portion of the band up where they are working has been
an invaluable time saver and increased my successful QSO rate.

It's the same case when DX stations are calling on one frequency and
listening elsewhere. I can just quickly tune the sub and find the QSX
frequency within 2-3 calls usually. Win!

It was a tough decision for me when I was building my K3 system. I wasn't
sure if I wanted to choose the P3 or the KRX3 (and I couldn't afford both).
I went with the KRX3 and feel like I made the right decision for me. What a
great accessory!

73
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] SSB no output

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
Here is the problem. I am using my K3 in SSB mode. I key down the mic, and
it shows the red LED TX quite bright, but no power is coming out.
However, when I key the radio with the audio input from the computer (using
N3FJP's AC Log software) I am able to play a recorded file (e.g., W4PAH,
Thank you, you are 59 into Wisconsin, etc.).

I've tried both my hand mic and my desk mic. No difference in behavior.

I haven't changed any settings that I can recall. Help!

-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] SSB no output

[John Shadle]

Wow! Thanks for all the positive and helpful comments. I feel like a
fool...somehow I had MIC GAIN down to 0. I am clearly the most talented guy
on this list! ;-)

Ha.

-john W4PAH


On Thu, Mar 6, 2014 at 5:56 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:

 Hi all,
 Here is the problem. I am using my K3 in SSB mode. I key down the mic, and
 it shows the red LED TX quite bright, but no power is coming out.
 However, when I key the radio with the audio input from the computer (using
 N3FJP's AC Log software) I am able to play a recorded file (e.g., W4PAH,
 Thank you, you are 59 into Wisconsin, etc.).

 I've tried both my hand mic and my desk mic. No difference in behavior.

 I haven't changed any settings that I can recall. Help!

 -john W4PAH


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[Elecraft] [K3] TUNE button not working on 15m

[John Shadle]

I am trying to use the TUNE button to help provide a constant carrier, as I
always do, with my external Dentron tuner. Everything works great--except
it is exhibiting strange behavior on 15m. When I hit TUNE it won't hold the
TX 15W (what I have set as the output power). In fact, it shows 0W and
won't stay on at all.

Any help? Hoping to work some 15m contacts this weekend. :-(

73
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] K3/AL-811 questions

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
This could be tangentially related to a K3 issue, or maybe K3 experts can
give some insight here. FYI, when I am not using the amp, I can get 100W
from my K3 with no problem. Please keep reading...

I have been using my AL-811 (not new, but new to me) successfully at 500W
for the past few weeks. Recently (actually, the second time this has
happened), my fuses both blew and I replaced them. Since I replaced them,
behavior has not been typical. I can't get anything over 200W (most is in
the 175W range). I use a tuner after the amp, and I know that the antenna
is matched quite well to the amp, but my SWR meter on my rig (K3) is
showing a high value.

When I tune up at 20-25W I can get about 100W out from the amp. When I move
to 50-65W I get  200W. And there is clicking. I can't tell if it's a relay
or if it's something else.

So, the main issues are
1. High SWR from the rig to the amp (when the antenna is  2:1 SWR to the
amp)
2. Low power from the amp to the antenna

Happy to provide other information if folks have ideas on where to look.

Thanks.
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/AL-811 questions

[John Shadle]

I should also note that sometimes the amp simply being powered on (not in
OPER position, but just ON) has flipped my GFCI. This has happened a few
times.

So odd. And annoying, since my computer is also plugged in there--which
requires a restart! ;-)

-john W4PAH


On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 11:46 AM, Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:

 John -

 I've got an AL-811 but this (luckily) has not happened to me. I suggest a
 call to Ameritron / MFJ, as it sounds like a component in the input
 circuitry in the amp has gone flakey: able to withstand low amounts of RF
 but fails under higher power. I had an issue with my AL-811 not being able
 to load up on 80 meter CW - they were extremely helpful on the phone.

 Jim / W6JHB


 On Aug 9, 2013, at 8:37 AM, John Shadle wrote:

  Hi all,
  This could be tangentially related to a K3 issue, or maybe K3 experts can
  give some insight here. FYI, when I am not using the amp, I can get 100W
  from my K3 with no problem. Please keep reading...
 
  I have been using my AL-811 (not new, but new to me) successfully at 500W
  for the past few weeks. Recently (actually, the second time this has
  happened), my fuses both blew and I replaced them. Since I replaced them,
  behavior has not been typical. I can't get anything over 200W (most is in
  the 175W range). I use a tuner after the amp, and I know that the antenna
  is matched quite well to the amp, but my SWR meter on my rig (K3) is
  showing a high value.
 
  When I tune up at 20-25W I can get about 100W out from the amp. When I
 move
  to 50-65W I get  200W. And there is clicking. I can't tell if it's a
 relay
  or if it's something else.
 
  So, the main issues are
  1. High SWR from the rig to the amp (when the antenna is  2:1 SWR to the
  amp)
  2. Low power from the amp to the antenna
 
  Happy to provide other information if folks have ideas on where to look.
 
  Thanks.
  -john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/AL-811 questions

[John Shadle]

I called Ameritron/MFJ and they suggested that the tubes were bad and that
D16 may possibly be bad as well. Apparently that has to do with metering.

Another fellow (off-list) suggested that the GFCI blowing has to do with a
leak to the ground. So, that could be a bad tube, right? Or something
else...

Guess I should start with tubes. Best place to get the 811A tubes still RF
Parts?

Thanks.
-john W4PAH


On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:04 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.orgwrote:

 Definitely sounds like something is damaged in the amp. It's hard to
 say what without more diagnosis than can be covered here.

 That clicking that you hear my be arcing. You want to STOP when you
 hear that, as it will cause further damage inside the amp.

 Sounds like you need to find someone with experience who can help you
 troubleshoot the amp... or try Ameritron support, as Jim suggests.

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML



 On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 8:48 AM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com
 wrote:
  I should also note that sometimes the amp simply being powered on (not in
  OPER position, but just ON) has flipped my GFCI. This has happened a few
  times.
 
  So odd. And annoying, since my computer is also plugged in there--which
  requires a restart! ;-)
 
  -john W4PAH
 
 
  On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 11:46 AM, Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:
 
  John -
 
  I've got an AL-811 but this (luckily) has not happened to me. I suggest
 a
  call to Ameritron / MFJ, as it sounds like a component in the input
  circuitry in the amp has gone flakey: able to withstand low amounts of
 RF
  but fails under higher power. I had an issue with my AL-811 not being
 able
  to load up on 80 meter CW - they were extremely helpful on the phone.
 
  Jim / W6JHB
 
 
  On Aug 9, 2013, at 8:37 AM, John Shadle wrote:
 
   Hi all,
   This could be tangentially related to a K3 issue, or maybe K3 experts
 can
   give some insight here. FYI, when I am not using the amp, I can get
 100W
   from my K3 with no problem. Please keep reading...
  
   I have been using my AL-811 (not new, but new to me) successfully at
 500W
   for the past few weeks. Recently (actually, the second time this has
   happened), my fuses both blew and I replaced them. Since I replaced
 them,
   behavior has not been typical. I can't get anything over 200W (most
 is in
   the 175W range). I use a tuner after the amp, and I know that the
 antenna
   is matched quite well to the amp, but my SWR meter on my rig (K3) is
   showing a high value.
  
   When I tune up at 20-25W I can get about 100W out from the amp. When I
  move
   to 50-65W I get  200W. And there is clicking. I can't tell if it's a
  relay
   or if it's something else.
  
   So, the main issues are
   1. High SWR from the rig to the amp (when the antenna is  2:1 SWR to
 the
   amp)
   2. Low power from the amp to the antenna
  
   Happy to provide other information if folks have ideas on where to
 look.
  
   Thanks.
   -john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] *FOR SALE* Elecraft AF1 w/ W8FGU enclosure

[John Shadle]

Continuing to pare down the shack. I offer my Elecraft AF1 ($59.95)
and the W8FGU Lexan enclosure ($29.95).

Works very well to bring the signals out of the noise.

Filters: Variable Cutoff Low pass filter (SSB/CW) plus two levels of
narrow CW bandpass filtering with tunable center frequency.
Built-in audio amplifier with volume control.
Power: 9V battery or external 12 to 14 VDC

Photo looks like this (photos available upon request):
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/pics/enclosures/AF1/AF1-Finished.jpg

Asking $75 + shipping to your QTH  [Total value $89.90.]. Check, money
order, or bank cheque preferred.

73
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Headphone recommendations for K3

[John Shadle]

Dave,
I love my Sony MDR-7506 headphones. They are comfortable and not tight
on the head (but are over-the-ear headphones, not earbuds), but the
cushions provide a good seal between your listening and the outside
noise. They're also great for listening to music.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E

They're pricey at ~$100 from Amazon (also available other places).
Gold connector and screw-on 1/4 connector (to the 1/8 standard
connector).

I use them along with the Elecraft MD2 microphone. Good combination
for both SSB and CW.

Good luck!
-john


 Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 14:10:56 -0400
 From: Dave Weiss davidhwe...@gmail.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] Need Headphone recommendations for K3
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:
 CAOi4EU=StQJAX=7No3mmKZk5SMO8VJn8CTQh5=zxkmmty7u...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 *Hi Gang:*
 *
 *
 *I have been using a Heil Proset Plus for 5 years and have finally had it
 with the pressure that they create on my ears. *
 *Changing the ear muffs and cover does not help, not that I expected that
 but I did it because I had them.  The CQWW SSB contest was a killer for me
 and I am done with them!*
 *
 *
 *I would like some recommendations on a high quality replacement with ear
 buds and a high quality mike that works well with the K3.*
 *
 *
 *My research has just begun so any guidance would be appreciated.
 *
 *
 *
 *-- 73
 Dave  K3FT*
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[Elecraft] FS: MFJ-259B antenna analyzer

[John Shadle]

MFJ-259B antenna analyzer for sale. Excellent, working condition. HF
through 180 MHz. Includes an AC adapter, as well.

New price is $289.95.
Optional Pelican 1200 hard-sided case can be added for $32 (retails for ~$40).

MFJ-259B only is $240.00
MFJ-259B + Pelican 1200 case is $272.00

Buyer to pay actual shipping for their choice of carrier (USPS, UPS, FedEx).

Prefer USPS MO for payment.

Please contact off list if interested.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] KRX3 installed and ERR VCO / ERR PL1

[John Shadle]

Even though it's quite embarrassing, I wanted to let folks know about
the resolution of this issue. It's also great to have my problem and
solution live in perpetuity on the list in case someone else has this
issue arise when they are adding their KRX3.

To recap, the issue I had was that neither my main nor my aux KSYN3
would complete the calibration procedure if there was a KSYN3
installed in the aux slot. If there was just a KSYN3 installed in the
main slot, everything was hunky dory.

I tried adding DeoxIT to the slots where the main and aux KSYN3 are
installed. That made it easier to remove/replace the units, but didn't
help the main problem at all. I checked the voltage at J1 and J2 of
the KREF3 board, and they were both within range (a little over .9V).
I double-checked to make sure that all the TMP cables were in place,
and that all the plug-in modules were aligned correctly.

*Finally*, I checked the bottom of the board one last time, especially
the work I had recently completed (a couple of upgrades and adding a
resistor to change the value at R91). My error was in the resistor
didn't have a good soldering joint at the point where the leaded
add-on 27 ohm resistor was added and where the 100 ohm SMT resistor
was previously. I reflowed solder there, and then voila, the rig will
complete the calibration procedure for both KSYN3 modules! When I was
checking the resistance before, I think I was inadvertently pushing
the leaded resistor against the SMT resistor, thus making a connection
(albeit temporary) and showing the expected value of 27 ohms. D'oh!

Thanks again to Gary and everyone on the list for their assistance.
I'm looking forward to playing around a bit with the newly upgraded K3
this weekend.

73
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI

On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 11:35 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi,
 I completed the installation of my KRX3 this evening (and upgraded the
 DSP board on my main RX, too).

 When I first turned the unit on, I received ERR PL1. This cleared out,
 then I tried to calibrate the synthesizers. First, I tried the SUB. It
 went through its procedure and then returned E 5 ERR VCO. I did
 the same thing with the main synthesizer, and received the same
 result.

 I did have to add the 27 ohm resistor (tested the resistance
 afterwards, and it was as expected--around 27 ohms instead of 100
 ohms). I also added the jumper wire for automatic front-end
 protection.

 I do have an older K3 (S/N 110), so perhaps that's to blame...?

 Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] KRX3 installed and ERR VCO / ERR PL1

[John Shadle]

Hi,
I completed the installation of my KRX3 this evening (and upgraded the
DSP board on my main RX, too).

When I first turned the unit on, I received ERR PL1. This cleared out,
then I tried to calibrate the synthesizers. First, I tried the SUB. It
went through its procedure and then returned E 5 ERR VCO. I did
the same thing with the main synthesizer, and received the same
result.

I did have to add the 27 ohm resistor (tested the resistance
afterwards, and it was as expected--around 27 ohms instead of 100
ohms). I also added the jumper wire for automatic front-end
protection.

I do have an older K3 (S/N 110), so perhaps that's to blame...?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] KRX3 and KBF3 install question

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I'm working on my KRX3 install and am wondering if I should move my
KBF3 (currently installed on my main RX) to my subreceiver, or leave
it in my main receiver.

Are there advantages/disadvantages to either situation, as far as
sensitivity of RX for ham bands and bands outside the ham bands?

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] FS: AF1 + enclosure

[John Shadle]

Paring down the station...

Elecraft AF1 Active Filter ($59.95)
W8FGU AF1 Active Filter Enclosure ($29.95)

Total new is $89.90. Your price is $76.00 + shipping.

Please contact me off list to arrange for shipping and terms.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] FS: Buddipole parts for antenna experimenters / spare parts

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
Having just sold my Buddipole Deluxe and Buddistick, I happened upon
another few parts that I am looking to get rid of...

1x VersaTee ($45.00) http://www.buddipole.com/versatee.html [This
VersaTee has the Center Tee Adapter molded to the base.]
1x Counterpoise Wire Adapter ($4.50)
http://www.buddipole.com/noname2.html [Older style without arms.]
2x Standard 22 Accessory Antenna Arms ($20 x 2)
http://www.buddipole.com/exanar.html
1x Long (10') Black Telescopic Whip ($18.00)
http://www.buddipole.com/lotewh.html
1x Buddipole Coil ($37.50) http://www.buddipole.com/bucoset.html
1x Coil Clip (~$3.00) http://www.buddipole.com/coilclips.html

This could be called the poor-man's Buddistick. You could easily use
the coil clip, telescoping whip, and a length of wire (not included)
to create a Buddistick on top of a small painter's pole (or
similarly threaded pole). Alternately, this would be a good choice if
you are interested in picking up some of these parts at a discount, as
spares for your Buddipole setup.

New, the parts would cost ~$148. Your cost is $125 + shipping.

Please contact me off-list if you're interested in purchasing these parts.

Photos available upon request.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] FS: Buddipole (deluxe) + accessories, Buddistick + accessories

[John Shadle]

In order to help finance some upcoming Elecraft purchases, I'm selling
my Buddistick and Buddipole. Please read below for details.

Since Elecraft sells these products, I figure it's fair game to post
them as for sale here. ;-)

First, the Buddistick. Includes the basic Buddistick package ($139), 1
Buddistick-to-Mast adapter ($8), and the Vertical Antenna Clamp
($24.50). The total price of this package, new, would be $171.50. Your
price is $145 + shipping to your QTH.

Next, the Buddipole. Includes Buddipole Deluxe Package w/ guying kit
($424) [black], 1 pair 4 section lightweight shock-cord whip antennas
($105), and the Wire Assembly ($15) [for using the Buddipole as a
vertical, similar to the Buddistick]. Total price of this package,
new, would be $544. Your price is $460 + shipping to your QTH.

Photos available upon request. Prefer USPS MO for payment.

Please contact me off list if you're interested.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
COM port on my desktop computer.

I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
for both rig control and CW keying.

My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
Is this acceptable practice?

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
through to both COM ports? Wouldn't COM 1 only look for the
appropriate rig control signals and COM 2 only look for the
appropriate CW keying signals? Or not...?

Thanks, Iain!
-john W4PAH

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:51 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org wrote:
 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Sure! It'd probably be safest to make the splitter yourself - the
 rig-control side needs TXD, RXD and ground, and the keying side
 needs RTS, DTR and ground.

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Good point, Iain.

The only problem is that I'd like to get the project done quickly, and
I'm not sure Radio Shack sells these DB9 shells any longer. Off to
Digikey/Mouser I go...

73
-john W4PAH

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:58 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org wrote:
 Hi John,

 I didn't want to suggest that without having tried it (and it may vary
 between COM port implementations). I'm thinking that there may be some
 interaction between the two COM ports if they're electrically
 connected together - e.g. if you tell the rig-control port to set RTS
 and DTR to always low, that might pull down the voltage generated by
 the keying port, and cause it to not work you could try it, I
 suppose

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML


 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:54 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
 through to both COM ports? Wouldn't COM 1 only look for the
 appropriate rig control signals and COM 2 only look for the
 appropriate CW keying signals? Or not...?

 Thanks, Iain!
 -john W4PAH

 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:51 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org 
 wrote:
 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Sure! It'd probably be safest to make the splitter yourself - the
 rig-control side needs TXD, RXD and ground, and the keying side
 needs RTS, DTR and ground.

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Ah forget it. I needed to use the right search term...

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=kw=d-suborigkw=d-subsr=1

Maybe creating my own cable is the way to go after all.

-john

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:03 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Good point, Iain.

 The only problem is that I'd like to get the project done quickly, and
 I'm not sure Radio Shack sells these DB9 shells any longer. Off to
 Digikey/Mouser I go...

 73
 -john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Thanks, Don. Are you talking about the PTT IN and KEY OUT RCA jacks?

I Googled one transistor keying circuit and it came back with some
amplifier keying circuits. Is that what I should be looking for, or
something else? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but I'm just having a
hard time seeing it. ;-)

Take care.
-john W4PAH

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:20 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 John,

 I would suggest that you use the one transistor keying circuit (Google and
 you will find many sources) for the keying and PTT. Connect the output of
 the one transistor keyer to the K3 rear panel keying input and PTT input.

 You will still have the problem that the computer will activate those
 signals when the computer boots, so boot the computer and than turn on the
 K3 - or take other common sense precautions like switching the K3 to a dummy
 load during computer boot times.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:

 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] GFI outlet, 100W on 20m, and *poof* (RFI?)

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I realize that this is tangentially related to Elecraft gear since I'm
using a K3 and experiencing this issue, but I thought someone else may
have some knowledge to share with me to help me solve my problem.

Recently I stopped using a 25' long extension cord to power my
computer, power supply, and other accessories and installed a 2 gang
box directly off of the main electrical panel, where my shack happens
to be (in the basement). While our basement is waterproofed, it still
has a concrete floor, which requires a GFI outlet (according to my
electrician). To do my due diligence, I installed one GFI in the 2
gang box and 1 regular 3-prong grounded outlet. I have my shack
computer, my power supply, and my transformer for my SGC SG-231
autotuner plugged into this.

Last night I tuned up (15W) 20m and was hoping to work some DX. My SWR
showed 2.0:1 on my SWR meter and on the K3. All is good. When I keyed
down with 100W, the GFI tripped and my shack computer, power supply,
etc. shut off.

I'm using Leviton smartlockpro 20A GFCI outlets from Home Depot.
They're not cheap, but maybe they don't have adequate RFI protection
(obviously).

I suppose the first solution is to remove the GFI from the situation,
but I thought using it was the right thing to do. Any personal
anecdotes or advice would be welcome.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] N3FJP rig control settings?

[John Shadle]

Hi Terry,
I have been using N3FJP's AC Log for a while, both with my K2 and now
my K3. I haven't had any trouble at all with DX spotting and clicking
on a spot to do a frequency change with either rig. I can take a look
at my settings if you like.

So, basically, clicking on a spot doesn't work? You're getting the
wrong mode and even frequency? That's strange...

N3FJP recently updated AC Log and it's a much improved program. It's
now at version 3.2 (although I have only upgraded to 3.1 so far,
myself). If you purchased it in the past, you're entitled to a free
upgrade.

It might be best to try to post your question to the AC Log list, too.
I've found Scott and the rest of the list members invaluable in
setting up the software.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/N3FJP_Software_Users/

73
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI

 If anyone has been successful in finding a way to send DX spot rig command 
 strings *smoothly* from N3FJP's ACLog to a K3, would you please email me with 
 the software settings you've used.  I have not been able to get ACLog to 
 interface well with my K3 (#474) since I bought the rig (the software worked 
 fine with my FT1000MP).  The software reads the K3 data just fine.  But DX 
 spot clicks seem to go very slowly and the mode, band and frequency changes 
 seem to be all mixed up.  Scott, N3FJP, told me that Elecraft sends the 
 commands to the K3 in a non-standard format but claims to generally 
 support the Elecraft line. The command string references I have found in the 
 K3 manual have not been successful, but I don't rule out an error on my part 
 there.

 Other than recommending other logging programs can anyone offer an ACLog 
 command solution. I'm not a contester and have tried all the popular 
 logging/rig control offerings that many of you use.  Most programs offer WAY 
 too many features for my needs.  Many thanks.

 73,

 Terry, W0FM
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 8-pin to stereo mic cable?

[John Shadle]

Thanks for the clarification, Don.

I was reading my hard-copy manual (Rev. C1, November 18, 2007) and it
states on p. 26 that An 8-pin to 3.5-mm adapter cable is available
(pg. 42).. However, on p. 42 there are two headings--Options and
Firmware Upgrades--and no mention of this cable, so that left me
confused.

So, the cable doesn't exist, I suppose?

I was just looking for a way to clean up my desk a bit. Ah well.

73
-john W4PAH

On Mon, Mar 12, 2012 at 1:00 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 John,

 I think the neatest converter cable is the K3 itself - just plug the 8 pin
 connector into the front panel.
 I don't know of any adapter that will bring out the PTT and AF lines from
 the 8 pin Foster connector to 3.5mm AF and RCA plugs that can be used on the
 back panel.  Homebrew can provide that, but I know of none off the shelf,

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 3/12/2012 12:01 AM, John Shadle wrote:

 I should've clarified. I'm using the Elecraft MD2 desk mic. It has a
 Y-connector with a 1/4 jack (for the footswitch) connected to the
 8-pin mic connector for the front of the K3 (or K2).

 In order of preference, here is what I'm curious about their existence:
 1. A 1/8 plug to the 8-pin mic jack to connect the 8-pin mic plug to
 my MD2 (which also allows the footswitch to be used attached to the
 Y-connector)
 2. A 1/8 plug to the 8-pin mic jack to connect the 8-pin mic plug to
 my MD2 (footswitch us connected to the RCA PTT on the rear, instead)

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH

 On Sun, Mar 11, 2012 at 9:58 PM, John Shadlesha...@katzenfisch.com
  wrote:

 Hi all,
 Are there any recommended 8-pin to stereo mic cables for the K3 (for
 moving the mic to the rear panel), or will just any old one do?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI

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[Elecraft] [K3] 8-pin to stereo mic cable?

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
Are there any recommended 8-pin to stereo mic cables for the K3 (for
moving the mic to the rear panel), or will just any old one do?

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 8-pin to stereo mic cable?

[John Shadle]

I should've clarified. I'm using the Elecraft MD2 desk mic. It has a
Y-connector with a 1/4 jack (for the footswitch) connected to the
8-pin mic connector for the front of the K3 (or K2).

In order of preference, here is what I'm curious about their existence:
1. A 1/8 plug to the 8-pin mic jack to connect the 8-pin mic plug to
my MD2 (which also allows the footswitch to be used attached to the
Y-connector)
2. A 1/8 plug to the 8-pin mic jack to connect the 8-pin mic plug to
my MD2 (footswitch us connected to the RCA PTT on the rear, instead)

Thanks!
-john W4PAH

On Sun, Mar 11, 2012 at 9:58 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 Are there any recommended 8-pin to stereo mic cables for the K3 (for
 moving the mic to the rear panel), or will just any old one do?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] FS: 13 kHz FM filter KFL3B-FM

[John Shadle]

The filter has been sold. Thanks for your interest!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] WTB: KRX3 High Performance Subreceiver

[John Shadle]

If you are looking to unload your KRX3, please contact me off-list.

Please include a description of the filters included (if any) and your
expected cost.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] FS: 13 kHz FM filter KFL3B-FM

[John Shadle]

The 13 kHz FM filter for K3 is excess to my needs.

Asking $125 (free shipping to US).

Please contact me off-list.

Thanks
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] [K3] using a footswitch for PTT

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I am finally getting the ol' radio back up and running after a few months
of packing and moving from NC to WI. In my past life (in NC) I was mostly
CW, but now that the shack is in the basement I want to get back on SSB.

I have an Elecraft desk mic (the Heil version from a few years ago). It has
an input for a 1/4 footswitch controller for PTT. I've never used a
footswitch before, so this is all new to me.

I don't have a Heil footswitch, but do have an older Yamaha foot pedal
which I picked up at a yard sale a couple of years ago. It creates a closed
circuit whenever I depress the switch (and is open otherwise). The odd
thing is that whenever I plug in this footswitch, the PTT is engaged when
the switch is plugged in--and the PTT is disengaged when I depress the
switch. This seems like odd behavior to me. Is there something in the menu
that I need to change? Advanced mic parameters? I'm kinda lost.

I cracked the case open to view the innards, but it's just two wires (tip
and ground for the 1/4 cable) and a switch. I don't think there's anything
I can do in there to modify things.

The model appears to be a Yamaha FC5 (
http://usa.yamaha.com/products/music-production/accessories/footswitches/fc5/?mode=model),
although I can't find a model number on it.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] using a footswitch for PTT

[John Shadle]

I just checked again and, yes, it's wired to OPEN when depressed and CLOSED
otherwise. Hrm.

Can I use this for PTT or is it simply junque?

-john W4PAH

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Rose elecraftcov...@gmail.com wrote:


 Hi John,

 Could the switch actually be a DPST and wired to -open- when the
 switch is depressed?  There are some musical (band) applications
 where this would be the case.

 73!

 Ken - K0PP

 On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 5:06 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.comwrote:

 Hi all,
 I am finally getting the ol' radio back up and running after a few months
 of packing and moving from NC to WI. In my past life (in NC) I was mostly
 CW, but now that the shack is in the basement I want to get back on SSB.

 I have an Elecraft desk mic (the Heil version from a few years ago). It
 has
 an input for a 1/4 footswitch controller for PTT. I've never used a
 footswitch before, so this is all new to me.

 I don't have a Heil footswitch, but do have an older Yamaha foot pedal
 which I picked up at a yard sale a couple of years ago. It creates a
 closed
 circuit whenever I depress the switch (and is open otherwise). The odd
 thing is that whenever I plug in this footswitch, the PTT is engaged when
 the switch is plugged in--and the PTT is disengaged when I depress the
 switch. This seems like odd behavior to me. Is there something in the menu
 that I need to change? Advanced mic parameters? I'm kinda lost.

 I cracked the case open to view the innards, but it's just two wires (tip
 and ground for the 1/4 cable) and a switch. I don't think there's
 anything
 I can do in there to modify things.

 The model appears to be a Yamaha FC5 (

 http://usa.yamaha.com/products/music-production/accessories/footswitches/fc5/?mode=model
 ),
 although I can't find a model number on it.

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] using a footswitch for PTT

[John Shadle]

Here's an update with photos of the innards.

I think there might be a way to rewire this one, but it would require
cutting part of the switch. Not sure about that... Right now it's shaped
like an S when not depressed:

    (white wire connects here)
{
 ---
}
 (black wire connects here)

When the pedal is depressed, it looks more like this:

    (white wire connects here)

 ---
/}
 (black wire connects here)

So, the switch is open. See the photos here.

https://picasaweb.google.com/john.shadle/YamahaFootswitchForPTTOnTheK3?authuser=0authkey=Gv1sRgCNTGxcrS-qLoegfeat=directlink

-john

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 12:06 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:

 Hi all,
 I am finally getting the ol' radio back up and running after a few months
 of packing and moving from NC to WI. In my past life (in NC) I was mostly
 CW, but now that the shack is in the basement I want to get back on SSB.

 I have an Elecraft desk mic (the Heil version from a few years ago). It
 has an input for a 1/4 footswitch controller for PTT. I've never used a
 footswitch before, so this is all new to me.

 I don't have a Heil footswitch, but do have an older Yamaha foot pedal
 which I picked up at a yard sale a couple of years ago. It creates a closed
 circuit whenever I depress the switch (and is open otherwise). The odd
 thing is that whenever I plug in this footswitch, the PTT is engaged when
 the switch is plugged in--and the PTT is disengaged when I depress the
 switch. This seems like odd behavior to me. Is there something in the menu
 that I need to change? Advanced mic parameters? I'm kinda lost.

 I cracked the case open to view the innards, but it's just two wires (tip
 and ground for the 1/4 cable) and a switch. I don't think there's anything
 I can do in there to modify things.

 The model appears to be a Yamaha FC5 (
 http://usa.yamaha.com/products/music-production/accessories/footswitches/fc5/?mode=model),
 although I can't find a model number on it.

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] using a footswitch for PTT

[John Shadle]

That's exactly the case--and what I was thinking about doing.

I was also considering desoldering the center arm of the switch and bending
it up, to connect it to the top arm of the switch; however, being that the
center part is plastic, I'm not sure it would survive this process.

-john W4PAH

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 1:38 PM, Ross Primrose N4RP n...@aiko.com wrote:

 Looking at the pictures, it looks like the center arm of the switch is
 connected to the pole the black wire is connected to just to the left of
 where the black wire is soldered. It looks like if you broke that
 connection, and connected the white wire to the center arm of the switch,
 it would only be connected to the black wire when the switch is
 depressed

 73, Ross N4RP


 On 1/9/2012 1:31 PM, John Shadle wrote:

 Here's an update with photos of the innards.

 I think there might be a way to rewire this one, but it would require
 cutting part of the switch. Not sure about that... Right now it's shaped
 like an S when not depressed:

     (white wire connects here)
 {
  ---
 }
  (black wire connects here)

 When the pedal is depressed, it looks more like this:

     (white wire connects here)

  ---
 /}
  (black wire connects here)

 So, the switch is open. See the photos here.

 https://picasaweb.google.com/**john.shadle/**
 YamahaFootswitchForPTTOnTheK3?**authuser=0authkey=**
 Gv1sRgCNTGxcrS-qLoegfeat=**directlinkhttps://picasaweb.google.com/john.shadle/YamahaFootswitchForPTTOnTheK3?authuser=0authkey=Gv1sRgCNTGxcrS-qLoegfeat=directlink

 -john

 On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 12:06 PM, John Shadlesha...@katzenfisch.com
  wrote:

  Hi all,
 I am finally getting the ol' radio back up and running after a few months
 of packing and moving from NC to WI. In my past life (in NC) I was mostly
 CW, but now that the shack is in the basement I want to get back on SSB.

 I have an Elecraft desk mic (the Heil version from a few years ago). It
 has an input for a 1/4 footswitch controller for PTT. I've never used a
 footswitch before, so this is all new to me.

 I don't have a Heil footswitch, but do have an older Yamaha foot pedal
 which I picked up at a yard sale a couple of years ago. It creates a
 closed
 circuit whenever I depress the switch (and is open otherwise). The odd
 thing is that whenever I plug in this footswitch, the PTT is engaged when
 the switch is plugged in--and the PTT is disengaged when I depress the
 switch. This seems like odd behavior to me. Is there something in the
 menu
 that I need to change? Advanced mic parameters? I'm kinda lost.

 I cracked the case open to view the innards, but it's just two wires (tip
 and ground for the 1/4 cable) and a switch. I don't think there's
 anything
 I can do in there to modify things.

 The model appears to be a Yamaha FC5 (
 http://usa.yamaha.com/**products/music-production/**
 accessories/footswitches/fc5/?**mode=modelhttp://usa.yamaha.com/products/music-production/accessories/footswitches/fc5/?mode=model
 ),
 although I can't find a model number on it.

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI

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 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the
 minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired
 communications.”


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[Elecraft] KXPA100 timeline?

[John Shadle]

I see that KX3 Ordering and Shipping dates will be Fall-Winter 2011
according to Elecraft's web site
(http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/kx3.htm). Will the KXPA100 be available
at that time as well? If so, have any more details been released about
it (kit like the K2 or semi-kit like the K3; price range; cost of the
KXAT100 autotuner)?

Also, are any details available on how it will integrate with the K2?
It would be cool if it would integrate similar to the KPA100 in that
you can have continuous selection of output power from 0-100W. Just a
thought... :-)

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] wire antenna lengths for portable operations

[John Shadle]

I'm headed up to KL7-land next week and am going to take the K2 with
me. I was thinking about using the KAT2 to tune a wire attached to the
BL2 (at the 1:1 setting).

Probably going to cut some teflon-coated wire this evening and pack it
away in the bag.

I'm seeking input on the best lengths of wire to cut for the active
part of the antenna as well as the counterpoise.

If you have any other comments on this setup, I'd love to hear them,
too. In the past, I've used the K2 attached to my homebrew vertical
(SGC SG-239 at the base of a elevated ground plane vertical), so this
is my first adventure with random wire antennas.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] KX3 and KXPA100 pricing?

[John Shadle]

Having never been to Dayton, I don't know what the protocol is--but is
KE9V (who graciously provided the photos) able to also provide prices
to us for these new offerings?

Or, will they be appearing from Wayne and Eric in the coming days?

The KX3 looks cool, but the KXPA100 is more interesting at this point to me.

-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] KX3 100w amp

[John Shadle]

Does this device have a name yet?

The KX3 sounds neat, but I'd love to get my hands on a 100w amp for
5/10w radios.

Will it be a solder kit or modular like the K3?

-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

[John Shadle]

This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
(I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).

I power cycled the radio and then received a multitude of errors upon
power-up (including ERR IO1 and ERR PL1 among others). In addition to
that, the fans were running (I have the 100w amp as well).

I turned the radio off for a minute or so, and now the error has
resolved. I've had the issue of the no power out when TUNE-ing in the
past, but never this before.

Help!
-john W4PAH
K3 #110
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

[John Shadle]

Add to this the fact that the radio now is only putting out 12W
instead of 100W. :-(

Thanks for any assistance.

-john W4PAH

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:28 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
 then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
 wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
 (I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).

 I power cycled the radio and then received a multitude of errors upon
 power-up (including ERR IO1 and ERR PL1 among others). In addition to
 that, the fans were running (I have the 100w amp as well).

 I turned the radio off for a minute or so, and now the error has
 resolved. I've had the issue of the no power out when TUNE-ing in the
 past, but never this before.

 Help!
 -john W4PAH
 K3 #110

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

[John Shadle]

That was my first thought, Ron.

I had previously had my TUN PWR set to 25W, but when I looked at that
menu item it was set to 12W. I had not changed the setting.

The KPA100 was no offline in the config menu at all.

I reflashed the firmware and now it's all working, I think. The
LP-100A wattmeter is showing about 75W out with a 1.6 SWR into my
antenna (the K3 says I'm getting 100W out). That seems a little low to
me. Next I'll try a dummy load...

The investigation continues.

-john

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:46 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
 Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
 more than 12W out sounds like the KPA100 is off-line. Considering how
 confused the K3 acted previously, I'd check the CONFIG menu to ensure it
 still shows the KPA100 as Installed.

 Ron AC7AC
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

[John Shadle]

Doing that now. Thanks, Gary.
-john

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
 Aaaargh...dang fingers...CONFIG TX GN
 Sheesh
 Gary

 On 5 May 2011 12:51, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Plus do a full congig TX etc
 Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

[John Shadle]

Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
load on all bands. Hmmm.

Thoughts?

Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...

-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

[John Shadle]

OK. I'm really going to bed now--but before I do I noticed that I can
turn the TX ALC 'off' in the CONFIG menu and manually adjust the TXGN
HP for each band to achieve the 100W into the dummy load (as measured
through the LP-100A).

Is this advisable?

-john W4PAH

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 11:15 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
 load on all bands. Hmmm.

 Thoughts?

 Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...

 -john W4PAH

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[Elecraft] [K3] WANTED: KBPF3

[John Shadle]

If anyone has a KBPF3 excess to their needs, please drop me a line
with your price including shipping to 27510 (Carrboro, NC).

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] FS: KX1 + all accessories

[John Shadle]

I'm considering the purchase of a K3, but first I need to dump some radios.

This is KX1 S/N 1601 built by me. It contains the 30m/80m module, the
ATU, and the Elecraft paddle.

Retail price is $570 + shipping.

It can be yours for $475 shipped USPS Priority Mail (in the USA). If
you pay by PayPal, the total will be $490.

Photos of the build (it was obsessively documented by me) may be seen here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shadle/sets/72157600234104771/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shadle/sets/72157600249617108/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shadle/sets/72157600324008987/

Please contact me off-list.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: KX1 + all accessories

[John Shadle]

The KX1 has been sold. Thanks.
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] FS: KPA100 + KAT100 in EC2

[John Shadle]

Trying to raise money for a new transceiver and am going to bring my
K2 back to QRP by selling these accessories.

This is for a KPA100 ($399.95) mounted in an EC2 ($79.95) with the
KAT100 ($219.95). Total value is approximately $700.

The KPA100 was built by KZ1X and has all of the updates which make it
up to current spec.

The KAT100 was built by me (W4PAH) this past year.

All you have to do to have 100W and an autotuner with your QRP K2 is
connect the two with coax (and add an external coax jumper between the
KPA100 and KAT100).

I'm offering this package for $585 + shipping ($603 if you pay via
PayPal). Shipping should be about $15 or so, I'm guessing.

I would consider splitting the package if you only need one of these
(the KAT100-2 or the KPA100).

Please contact me off list.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] headphone jack replacement tips?

[John Shadle]

I think I finally might get to replacing my failed headphone jack this
weekend. Anyone have any tips for this little job? I recall that there
are more than a few pins to desolder.

Also, does it make sense to not put stress on the headphone jack in
the future by plugging my headphones into the external speaker jack on
the rear of the unit? My headphone cable is plenty long to reach
there, and would rather not have to replace this again in the
future--as it seems to be the case with many folks.

Thanks.
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] where there's the smell of smoke...

[John Shadle]

Hi Don,
Thanks for the response.

I received an off-list reply from another fellow who mentioned U6 on
the KPA100 being an issue--but he said that I should be using the 3
conductor cable to connect the KPA100 to the USB-to-serial adapter. To
clarify, I *am* using the adapter in the KPA100 manual (DB9 female on
one end DB9 male on the other end) to connect to the USB-to-serial
cable.

In any case, I do agree that there is an issue related to the key or
something being shorted to ground--but I don't think that keying the
rig for the less than 2 minutes it took for me to run upstairs to get
my headphones would've caused something to burn up (which is
definitely what happened).

I'm concerned about the fact that I saw a small spark when I plugged
in the USB to my laptop and what ramifications that may have for the
KPA100 unit or its circuitry related to the rig control/DB9.

The key was definitely all the way in, though, I'll check that this
afternoon during my son's nap.

Thanks!
-john

On Sat, Jan 22, 2011 at 8:28 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  John,

 Maybe you are working on it too late :-) .

 If the keying stops when the key is removed, I would suspect the key and
 cable rather than the K2.
 To see if there is a key jack problem, plug a bare 3.5mm stereo plug into
 the jack.

 If your plug is only partly inserted, the dash contact in the key jack can
 be touching the shell - that will key the K2 with dashes momentarily until
 the plug is seated.

 As a side-note -- I have found several K2 owners who severely tighten the
 dress nut on the key jack (and the BNC jack as well).  That really is not
 necessary and can damage the jack.  Just tighten a little bit beyond finger
 tight.  The nut holds neither the rear panel nor the jack in place, it is
 just there for appearance - just tight enough to keep the nut from backing
 itself off is sufficient.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 1/21/2011 10:25 PM, John Shadle wrote:

 First follow-up.

 When I unplugged the key from the back of the rig, the keying stops.
 If I change the input to hand then it keys continuously (once I plug
 the key back in). Again, if I remove the key, the keying stops.

 Hope this helps.

 Still not sure what in the world I fried. Haven't opened up the case
 to check yet. Need to get to bed now. Zzzz.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] where there's the smell of smoke...

[John Shadle]

Don,
How are you always right? ;-)

I checked the key and there was definitely a bad connection there.
Things *appear* to be working just fine. I just had QSOs with WV and
MI.

Still trying to figure out why I got the burning smell, though. That
is quite curious...

Any ideas on that one?

-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] where there's the smell of smoke...

[John Shadle]

I just plugged in my rig and was getting ready to operate this evening
when something horrible happened.

I have a serial to USB cable which I use for rig control (between the
KPA100 and my laptop). I notice that when I plugged it in there was a
spark (at the computer end). Probably static charge from the fact that
I operate on a carpeted floor. I didn't think any more about it.

Next, I go upstairs to get my headphones (since my speaker isn't
working) and when I come down I smell a horrible burning smell and my
rig is keying CW (even though the key is open) and I can't stop it. I
unplugged the rig and removed power, then tried again, but got the
same result.

Where do I even begin? :-(

Thanks.
-john
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] where there's the smell of smoke...

[John Shadle]

First follow-up.

When I unplugged the key from the back of the rig, the keying stops.
If I change the input to hand then it keys continuously (once I plug
the key back in). Again, if I remove the key, the keying stops.

Hope this helps.

Still not sure what in the world I fried. Haven't opened up the case
to check yet. Need to get to bed now. Zzzz.

On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 10:00 PM, John Shadle m...@w4pah.com wrote:
 I just plugged in my rig and was getting ready to operate this evening
 when something horrible happened.

 I have a serial to USB cable which I use for rig control (between the
 KPA100 and my laptop). I notice that when I plugged it in there was a
 spark (at the computer end). Probably static charge from the fact that
 I operate on a carpeted floor. I didn't think any more about it.

 Next, I go upstairs to get my headphones (since my speaker isn't
 working) and when I come down I smell a horrible burning smell and my
 rig is keying CW (even though the key is open) and I can't stop it. I
 unplugged the rig and removed power, then tried again, but got the
 same result.

 Where do I even begin? :-(

 Thanks.
 -john

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[Elecraft] [K2] no speaker audio (perhaps bad headphone jack?)

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I read through the archives and am wondering if I may have fallen prey
to the bad headphone jack problem. I am able to hear just fine when
I have my headphones plugged in, but get no audio out of the speaker
when I remove the headphones.

For the record, the speaker *did* work at one point...and I only
started using the rig in October. Although I do pull the headphones
out quite a bit since that's what I use to listen when I operate. This
problem started a few weeks ago and I'm just now starting to think
about trying to find a solution to it.

I'm using the K2 with the KPA100 mounted on top. (At one point I had
the KAT100/KPA100 in the same enclosure, but I have since moved to an
SGC SG-239 at the base of my vertical and no longer need the KAT100 at
this time.)

Any tips for troubleshooting this problem?

Thanks.
-john W4PAH
K2 S/N 5684
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] no speaker audio (perhaps bad headphone jack?)

[John Shadle]

Dave Sergeant d...@davesergeant.com wrote...

 You have probably already checked this, but:

 Is the lead to the speaker plugged into P5 on th RF board?
 Do you get audio if you plug the headphones or a speaker into the rear
 Ext Speaker socket?
 Is the speaker itself OK, and all wiring intact?

I'll check all of that tonight and report back. Don must've slept in
this morning. Surprised he hasn't replied yet. ;-)

-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] no speaker audio (perhaps bad headphone jack?)

[John Shadle]

No audio from the external speaker output. Nothing happens when I
wiggle the speaker cable (which was plugged into P5 on the RF board.
Everything else appears to be just fine. I suppose the next step is to
email the folks at pa...@elecraft.com...

Thanks, all.
-john
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[Elecraft] [K2] KDSP2 settings for CW

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I have been fiddling with the KDSP2 for a while and am trying to get
my head around the settings for optimal CW reception. Yes, I know
that's all subjective, but I'd be interested in hearing what folks are
using for the denoiser settings (beta, decay, CW gain) as well as the
CW filter gain.

Default values are as follows:

Denoiser
* beta 89
* decay 71
* CW gain 0.00 dB
CW filter
* gain 0.00 dB

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] KDSP2 rave!

[John Shadle]

For some reason the noise level was higher than normal at my QTH last
night on 40m. I struggled to pick out the signals at all--but heard a
faint CQ around 7.117 MHz. I fiddled around with the stock crystal
filters as well as the KDSP2's filters but was only able to hear the
signal well after using the denoiser in the KDSP2's menu. I know that
I still have a lot to learn about the KDSP2's functionality, but I
just wanted to comment on what an amazing addition this is to an
already excellent radio! With the KDSP2 denoiser engaged, W6RO (The
Queen Mary, Long Beach, CA) was 339; otherwise, it was very
unworkable.

Also, I find that I like the soft filters better than the hard
filters from the KDSP2. They seem more pleasing to the ear, in my
opinion.

Having finally finished my K2 in October (after a 2 1/2 year-long
journey) and throwing away the mic for a while in order to hone my
CW skills, I have been able to QSO with nearly 1/2 of the US states on
30m and 40m. My goal is to get all states confirmed by May so I can
get my cards checked at RARSfest in Raleigh for WAS 40m CW. Wish me
luck!

73
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] For Sale: items added, updated

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I added a few more items to the list over the past couple of days as
well as some more photos of the items already on the list. Thanks for
all the buyers helping me clean out my closet. Still plenty of things
left!

http://www.w4pah.com/fs.html

Oak Hills Research SCF-1A (switched capacitor filter)
MFJ-207 SWR analyzer
AEA PK232DSP multimode data controller (with extras!)
Elecraft KAF2 (audio filter and clock for Elecraft K2)
Kenwood TM-V7A dual-band FM mobile rig
Icom IC-2100H 2m FM mobile rig, 55W
BK Tool Kit 2707A multimeter
IBM ThinkPad 760ED
2 pieces 512MB RAM (DDR 333MHz CL2.5 PC2700U)

If you're curious, you can view the items already sold or claimed on this page.

http://www.w4pah.com/fs_sold.html

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] For Sale: updated

[John Shadle]

I made a web site with embedded photos so it's easier to see.

http://w4pah.com/fs.html

Included now:
- Elecraft KBT2 (unbuilt)
- Elecraft KAF2 (built)
- PIC-EL (built)
- NJQRP DDS Daughtercard (built)
- Kenwood TM-V7A (dual-band 70cm/2m rig, plus goodies)
- ICOM 2100H (2m 55w)
- SignaLink SL-1 Rev. B
- LDG RBA-1 4:1 balun
- Vista IV-R power supply
- DBJ-2 dual-band J-pole (constructed by Ed Fong)
- BK Tool Kit 2707A multimeter
- IBM ThinkPad 760ED
- 2 pieces of 512MB RAM (pulled from my ThinkPad T42)

Please send all offers to me directly.

73
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] FS: KBT2 and KAF2

[John Shadle]

I decided not to install the KBT2 and am using the KDSP2, so I have no
need for the KAF2.

The KBT2 is an unbuilt kit. It does not include the battery
(replacement batteries are available directly from Elecraft), so
technically this is the KBT2-X. Retail price is $49.95. I'm offering
it for $37.50 + shipping. Instruction manual included (of course).

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/93pTJxeI5OtBZl5H41KO5F-eQuSQ3BMD8eX_AkX6CjM?feat=directlink

The KAF2 is built (not by me). Instruction manual is included. Retail
price is $79.95. I'm offering it for $60 + shipping.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r1vB0qVsptbEThYsXpNSBl-eQuSQ3BMD8eX_AkX6CjM?feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dkIlIe7PUD3uwQ6khH0IT1-eQuSQ3BMD8eX_AkX6CjM?feat=directlink

Please contact me off-list if interested. If you would like both, then
I will combine/discount the shipping costs.

I prefer money orders (or bank checks) or PayPal [in that order]. If
you pay with PayPal, the actual cost will be calculated using
http://thefeecalculator.com/. For example, if the total cost is $50,
then you would pay $51.80. I only do this so that I don't lose money
on PayPal fees.

Thanks.
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] DE9 versus DB9, and how I can make a replacement cable

[John Shadle]

Hi,
I completed the K2 and KAT100/KPA100 (in an EC2) project. Everything
is playing well together, but there are some cable issues I'd like
to resolve in order to make it less messy when I bring the radio out
of the closet to operate.

First of all, I plan on making a short (~4) jumper, which is required
between the KPA100 and KAT100.

Secondly, I'd like to construct a single connection between the main
rig and the autotuner/amp.

I already have the long Y cable built, but won't always be using
computer control. Is it possible to get the DE9 shell, connectors, and
the shielded wire from another source? Can I use DB9 connectors, or
are they totally different from DE9's? I feel like this has been
hashed out in the past (and perhaps in a manual), but I can't seem to
find it.

If it's just a matter of ordering a replacement cable and connectors
from Elecraft, then fine; however, if I can pick up these parts
locally (or through Mouser, Digikey, etc.) then I may opt for that.

Thanks for your assistance in advance.
-john W4PAH
K2 #5684
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] DE9 versus DB9, and how I can make a replacement cable

[John Shadle]

Right, Don. That's what I'm trying to replace is the cable from the
KIO2 to the KPA100 (or KAT100). I have the Y cable constructed (PC --
K2 -- tuner/amp) but would like to make just a simple cable for when
I don't need the computer control (e.g., K2 -- tuner/amp) and don't
want all of that extra wire hanging around. Just looking to figure out
where to get replacement parts.

I suppose the DB-9 would be a find replacement. I looked at DigiKey a
few minutes ago and they have those as well as backshell assemblies.
The four-conductor cable only comes in rolls, as far as I can tell, so
I might just steal a short length from the Y cable I already made.

-john

On Thu, Oct 28, 2010 at 9:49 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  John,

 I believe you have the KAT100-2, so you plug the KPA100 ribbon cable into
 the KAT100.  That makes the connection for all signals that appear on the
 external cable.  You only need one cable from the KIO2 - and it plugs into
 either the AUX I/O on the KAT100 or the KPA100, no need for both.  You
 should not have to construct anything other than what you already have.

 Externally, the only connection between the KPA100 and the KAT100 is a short
 piece of coax and there should never be a need to remove it.

 Technically, the 9 pin D-sub connector is the DE-9, but is often mis-named
 as a DB-9.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 10/28/2010 9:25 AM, John Shadle wrote:

 Hi,
 I completed the K2 and KAT100/KPA100 (in an EC2) project. Everything
 is playing well together, but there are some cable issues I'd like
 to resolve in order to make it less messy when I bring the radio out
 of the closet to operate.

 First of all, I plan on making a short (~4) jumper, which is required
 between the KPA100 and KAT100.

 Secondly, I'd like to construct a single connection between the main
 rig and the autotuner/amp.

 I already have the long Y cable built, but won't always be using
 computer control. Is it possible to get the DE9 shell, connectors, and
 the shielded wire from another source? Can I use DB9 connectors, or
 are they totally different from DE9's? I feel like this has been
 hashed out in the past (and perhaps in a manual), but I can't seem to
 find it.

 If it's just a matter of ordering a replacement cable and connectors
 from Elecraft, then fine; however, if I can pick up these parts
 locally (or through Mouser, Digikey, etc.) then I may opt for that.

 Thanks for your assistance in advance.
 -john W4PAH
 K2 #5684
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[Elecraft] [K2] wobbly VFO knob, other knob issues

[John Shadle]

My K2 is very low use (just finished it a few weeks ago). When I turn
the main VFO knob it wobbles a *lot*. It seems like it especially
wobbles vertically, but also other directions as well.

I tightened the screws (which were already tight, by the way) and that
didn't help at all.

Any ideas?

Also, it seems like sometimes when I turn the knob a certain way for a
long time (e.g., counterclockwise) it starts to get really tight and
I have to turn it clockwise for it to ease up. Maybe I like to scan
down a lot--but this seems kinda odd for the knob to get tight like
this.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] wobbly VFO knob, other knob issues

[John Shadle]

Problem solved. Thanks to a list member who wrote me off-list. The nut
was loose and it was catching the felt washer.

73
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] S/N 5684 complete (finally!)

[John Shadle]

I finished my K2 a few weeks ago and have to first thank Don W3FPR for
helping me with the alignment and final check-out. After bringing it
back home, I went to work on the KAT100-2. That was a few
evening/afternoon project, but it is done and it has been mated with
KZ1X's old KPA100 very nicely (which is the only part of my K2 setup
that I didn't build). Thanks to Don (again) for his assistance on this
reflector for information on mating the KPA100 to the KAT100-2, and to
the base K2.

This past weekend I finally got the rig on the air for the first time.
I have a small (slightly less than 1/4 wave on 17m) ground-plane
vertical mounted on a fence post about 20' behind my townhome.
Definitely not the most optimal of working conditions, but it's the
best I can do for now. The KAT100-2 was able to make very good matches
to my feedline and antenna on most of the bands I wanted to work. I
spent a few hours over the course of this past weekend on 20m and 40m.
On 20m SSB I picked up a little DX (Switzerland, Germany, Hungary) and
a few special event stations and ragchews with folks in CO, MA, VT,
MS, and WI. On 40m CW I was able to have a couple of short QSOs with
folks in PA and IA before QSB and QRN got the best of us.

What a lot of fun it is to use a rig that you built yourself--and have
folks come back to you with excellent signal reports, too!

You'll notice that my S/N is about 1500 back. I bought the base kit
second-hand (eBay) from a fellow in late 2007/early 2008 and began
work on the kit in March '08. Since then, my first son was born (June
'08), I started a new job (September '08), we moved to a new home
(March '09) and life got in the way of me completing the kit in a
normal amount of time. Well, 2 1/2 years later I'm finally on the air!
It definitely feels like an accomplishment.

Thanks for a wonderful kit-building experience and now a wonderful
operating experience. I know I have a lot to learn about all of the
K2's features, but I feel well on my way...and I'm already thinking
about what mods I want to make to the rig (and my station) next!

73
-john W4PAH
Carrboro, NC
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[Elecraft] [K2] length of control cables between K2 and KAT100/KPA100

[John Shadle]

I'm almost done with the construction of my K2 twins (K2,
KAT100/KPA100) and am about to construct the control cable for the K2
-- KAT100/KPA100 -- PC.

The instructions from the KIO2 state that the length of the cable can
be up to 15' (the total length included in the kit), but the KAT100
manual states that it should be 2' (between the K2 and the KAT100).
The KAT100 instructions also state that A longer cable can also be
used, but it will have to be tested to ensure that is is not subject
to RF interference. Other conflicting information comes from the KIO2
manual (first page) which states that RS-232 interfaces are often
significant sources of RFI but that the KIO2's serial interface
provides an HF crystal oscillator (operating well outside of any ham
band) to generate the negative driver voltage.

So, which is it? ;-)

I understand that the cable can pick up stray RF (I'm guessing that's
why the KAT100 instructions state to make the cable as short as
needed). Are the cables sufficiently shielded, or not? Should I
consider purchasing other 4 conductor cables to replace the ones in
these kits?

As I sidenote, if anyone has information about using USB to serial
converters for K2 rig control, please reply with that as well. I'm
about to go searching through the archives now on that subject...

Thanks
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] WANTED: side panels for K2 or EC2

[John Shadle]

If you have an extra pair laying around, I'd be interested in taking
them off of your hands.

I'm pretty sure that Elecraft doesn't sell these individually...

Please reply directly.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] [K2] sanity check for winding T1 and T2 on KSB2 module

[John Shadle]

I'm nearing the end of my K2 build, and am working on the KSB2 module
at the moment. On page 11 of the most recent version of the manual
(Rev E), it shows the secondary winding going against the grain of
the primary winding. I really want to start with wire 2 on the same
side of the toroid as wire 3. The picture shows wire 2 on the same
side as wire 4. This makes winding more difficult and doesn't allow
for me to go parallel to the primary winding.

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KSB2%20manual%20rev%20E.pdf

Is this just a bad schematic, or does it matter what side of the core
1-2 are, relative to 3-4?

Same goes for T2, since it uses the same schematic.

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] sanity check for winding T1 and T2 on KSB2 module

[John Shadle]

Thanks, Don. That's what I was guessing--but I wanted some expert
opinions before I started tinning leads and soldering.

-john W4PAH

On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 9:00 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  John,

 The winding direction does not matter - just the turns ratio.  So wind to so
 the green turns do not cross over the red winding and it will be neater and
 work just as well.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 9/16/2010 8:42 PM, John Shadle wrote:

 I'm nearing the end of my K2 build, and am working on the KSB2 module
 at the moment. On page 11 of the most recent version of the manual
 (Rev E), it shows the secondary winding going against the grain of
 the primary winding. I really want to start with wire 2 on the same
 side of the toroid as wire 3. The picture shows wire 2 on the same
 side as wire 4. This makes winding more difficult and doesn't allow
 for me to go parallel to the primary winding.

 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KSB2%20manual%20rev%20E.pdf

 Is this just a bad schematic, or does it matter what side of the core
 1-2 are, relative to 3-4?

 Same goes for T2, since it uses the same schematic.


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[Elecraft] K2: current documentation on remoting KPA100/KAT100?

[John Shadle]

I know of this one link.

http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html

Is this the most current/best guide for remoting the KPA100/KAT100?

Are there other guides which offer different/better information?

Thanks.
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: current documentation on remoting KPA100/KAT100?

[John Shadle]

Yes, Don, that's what I'm planning on doing.

I have a KPA100 already built, and have the EC2 with the larger front
panel for the KAT100, which I'm planning to build the KAT100 into.

So, basically I just need to install a BNC cable in the rear of the
KAT100-2 and drop in the KPA100 into the KAT100-2?

Are there other resistors, diodes, etc. that need to be changed in the
KAT100 or the KPA100 (or the K2 RF board) to make this work? Or is it
really that simple--adding a BNC connector and plugging the KAT100
into the KPA100?

-john W4PAH

On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 10:33 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  John,

 That guide is still good if you read the update notes.

 However, if you are mounting both the KAT100 and the KPA100 both in the same
 EC2 enclosure it is much easier.
 Order the KAT100-2, and you will find it has the 10 pin connector for the
 KPA100 control cable as well as the DC and antenna connectors - so all you
 need to do is plug the KPA100 to those connectors.  When you make up the
 control cable indicated in the KAT100 manual, that one cable is then
 sufficient to bring the K2 control signals to the KPA100 and KAT100 combo,
 plug it either into the KAT100 or the KPA100.  You will need a BNC to BNC
 cable between the K2 and the KAT100 AUX RF jack, and you will need a short
 PL259 to PL259 coax to connect from the KPA100 to KAT100 input.
 The KIO2 or a suitable substitute is needed in the K2.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 9/13/2010 10:08 AM, John Shadle wrote:

 I know of this one link.

 http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html

 Is this the most current/best guide for remoting the KPA100/KAT100?

 Are there other guides which offer different/better information?

 Thanks.
 -john W4PAH


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: current documentation on remoting KPA100/KAT100?

[John Shadle]

Also, I just found this conversation from a while back. You reply with
a very similar note, Don. ;-)

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-REMOTE-KPA100-KAT100-td469168.html

And, there are some folks who chime in with their own experiences
doing this. It does sound like a very easy job!

I was working on my KSB2 last night and hope to finish it this week,
then to stuff all of the modules in the K2 and prepare for filter
alignment and final check-out. This multi-year project is about to be
complete!

-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] air travel with SLA batteries (was Re: OT Carrying radios on commercial flight)

[John Shadle]

Here is a relevant post I recently submitted to the QRP-L lists which
may be of interest to folks here.

For the record, no one asked me to turn anything on.

-john W4PAH

Hi all,
I recently made a trip to Anchorage, AK for work and decided to carry
on two 17Ah SLA (sealed lead-acid) batteries to support my operations.
Some folks on the list said don't risk it and ship them ahead of
time. Others said, tape the terminals and pack them in your
carry-on.

Since I had done this in the past (with 7Ah batteries) I decided to
risk it again.

I found a web page on the TSA's site which was helpful and printed it
out to carry with me.

http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/batteries.shtm

This ultimately proved helpful during my departure from RDU (Raleigh
Durham Airport) on Saturday morning. The TSA agent (who had 1 stripe
on his shoulder-boards) told me that unless I had an electric
wheelchair, I wasn't allowed to carry on these batteries. I explained
to him that I had taped the terminals and packed them in bubble-wrap
to protect them from damage. I showed him the web page which I had
printed out which stated that you must Place each battery in its own
protective case, plastic bag, or package, or place tape across the
battery's contacts to isolate terminals. Isolating terminals prevents
short-circuiting.

I had followed all of the rules. He brought over his supervisor who
had three stripes on her shoulder boards (I have no idea how many you
can have, but I saw folks with one, two, and three). She read my
printout and looked in a manual she had. After reading it a few
minutes she let me pass. I thanked the one-striper for his patience
(and tried not to do so in a sarcastic or snarky way), and re-packed
my bag. Success!

On the way back from my trip, I was again pulled aside and another
one-striper unpacked my carry-on and ran everything through again. He
said, Oh, you must be an amateur radio operator. We had a short
conversation. He was impressed with the radios and stuff I had. ;-) No
questions at all, he just wanted to make sure the SLA batteries
weren't concealing something in the x-ray image that could've been
below or above them in the bag.

So, I think in the future the lesson learned is to be prepared by
following the rules for protecting your batteries from the TSA's web
site (tape over terminals to prevent a short, pack the batteries in
bubble wrap or a bubble-wrap envelope), printing out the page from the
TSA's web site, and be patient as you go through all levels of TSA
employees until you reach someone who actually knows the rules.

73
-john W4PAH

P.S. I wasn't able to do much operating at all while in Alaska,
unfortunately. My free day ended up being very rainy and I wasn't able
to find a covered picnic table at the city park where I visited.
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[Elecraft] K2: K2KSB2XTLS installation question

[John Shadle]

Hi,
I'm trying to finish up my K2 and am preparing to install the
K2KSB2XTLS mod. I understand where these crystals go on the KSB2
board, but am trying to figure out which crystals I remove from the RF
board. Looks like probably X7-X11, but that leaves me with 2 extra
crystals for the RF board. Where do they go?

Thanks in advance.
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] OT: sideband filtering (USB v. LSB)

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
Please forgive me for this non-Elecraft intrusion. I'm hoping that
someone can help me out with a question about modifying rigs to
operate on the opposite sideband. Please continue reading below for my
reason why...

I'm trying to modify Dave Benson's PSK-20 rig to operate on USB (it
currently operates on LSB, even though it is a 20m rig for PSK31). I
want to replace the 5.07MHz LO with a DDS module to allow for tuning
across the entire 20m ham band.

I emailed Dave about this and he responded that I suspect your
talking about going anywhere in the band - a DDS-based signal in place
of that oscillator would let you go anywhere in the band. That's
exactly what I'm hoping for. He gave me another hint in the following
sentence:

...you need to pull the 9MHz LO to the other side of the filter
passband so that the rig is operating on the (standard) upper sideband
on 20m.

The theory of operation and the schematic may be found on pages 6-9 here:

http://smallwonderlabs.com/PSK20_Manual.pdf

I'm no RF engineer, but just a kit builder who is trying to understand
how his radios work. ;-)

The manual states (on page 7) that Single-sideband filtering is
performed by a second filter comprising Y7-Y10 and related capacitors.
After passing through the transmit IF filter comprising Y7-10 and
related components, the signal has been reduced to a 9 MHz SSB signal.
It's output drives 2nd mixer U7. This mixer is also driven by a signal
from the 5.07 MHz LO, Colpitts oscillator Q9 and associated
components.

From this, I am guessing that:
- Y7-Y10 and related capacitors reject the USB signal
- Something must change (the value of the capacitors C19-C23?) to
allow for the LSB signal to be rejected and the USB signal to pass

I'm not sure where to figure out how to pass the USB signal, though.
That's where I'm getting stumped.

Also, I'm not sure exactly where to place the outputs of the DDS
signal generator. This will replace the 5.07MHz LO (page 9, middle of
page, right-hand side). Should I just not install the crystal (Y6) and
put the output of the DDS in its place, or should I remove all
components related to the 5.07MHz LO and have the input of the DDS at
R48/R49?

If there are other places I might be passing my questions to, please
let me know. Sorry again for the intrusion.

73
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] T1: resistance check problems before final assembly

[John Shadle]

On p. 22 of the T1 assembly manual it states that resistance between D3 
anode and the - pad near D7 should be 100Kohms. That's good.

However, it then states that when I press S1 I should see resistance 
between 117k and 130k ohms. I have 148k ohms.

Is this a problem? If so, what should I check? I've tried switching the 
leads of my multimeter, but that doesn't appear to affect anything.

Thanks for your help.
-john W4PAH
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[Elecraft] K2 SSBCAPKT: 2.4kHz or 2.6kHz SSB bandwidth?

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I'm trying to get my K2 finished soon and am hoping to work on the
KSB2 module this weekend and early next week before some work/leisure
travel to California. One mod I'm planning on incorporating in the
KSB2 module is the SSBCAPKT, which allows for either 2.4 or 2.6 kHz
SSB signals.

I've checked my BFO and I can do either mod, so that is not an issue.
I'm wondering what I will be gaining/losing in either case. If I can
do 2.6, should I do it?

Any experience/assistance is appreciated.

73
-john W4PAH
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