Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 metering

[Ken Winterling]

Check the KPA500 manual. From memory, the max throughput in standby is
200W. As I say, check my memory against the manual.

*Ken*
*WA2LBI*




On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 6:36 PM Mike Murray  wrote:

> If a KPA500 is in standby, can it be used to determine power output from
> another amp by feeding the signal thru the KPA?  I don't currently have an
> external power meter I can utilize to check output of an SB200, but I also
> don't want to risk damaging the KPA.
>
> 73,
> Mike - W0AG
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT 500 Loses Match

[Ken Winterling]

Paul,

Connect a dummy load in place of the antenna and repeat your testing.
This will eliminate the antenna as a possible source of RFI.

Report the results of your tests,

GL!

*Ken*
*WA2LBI*




On Fri, Jan 12, 2024 at 4:47 PM Paul Ecker  wrote:

> I am experiencing a new problem for me, with my KAT 500. So far I've
> noticed this issue on 30M. I am using a dipole cut only for 30M with an SWR
> of 1.2 to 1.3 max SWR across the band. I “trained the tuner” at 20khz
> segments on 30M.
>
> Setup is K4D, KAT 500 & KPA 500. Win 10 pc.
>
> Running CW, I can start transmitting and all is fine- my LP100A is showing
> 1.2 SWR and am getting max power out of the radio. Then all of sudden the
> SWR jumps to >9.0. The KAT starts chattering and finds a new match. But if
> I start transmitting again – pwr out is only about 10 W at that new match,
> and eventually the tuner becomes untuned again. Sometimes, it will then
> hold the tune but still only getting abt 9-10w power out. The issue occurs
> with KPA500 both on and off.
>
> Does this sound like a KAT 500 problem or maybe an RFI problem.
>
>
> 73 Paul
>
> w2eck
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise from KAT500?

[Ken Winterling]

Eugene,

This may or may not address your issue but the KAT500 user manual reports
that a signal may be heard from an oscillator in the unit. The manual
advises that this can be shut down when not in use by running the KAT500
Utility.

Below is the reference to Idle Sleep in the manual.


*Idle SleepIn some installations a 28004.5 MHz signal may be heard from an
oscillator in the KAT500. If this is an issue, you can cause the KAT500
oscillator to shut down when it is not needed. Click on Idle Sleep to put a
check in the radio button. The oscillator will stop running shortly after
the last key press or the last data communication with other equipment and
restart automatically when needed.*

*Ken*
*WA2LBI*




On Sat, Dec 2, 2023 at 5:14 PM W2HX  wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have my new (to me) KAT500 up and running but I am noticing it is
> introducing quite a lot of noise when "inline" but the noise is gone in
> "bypass."
> Here is a video I made of the situation. The video shows the issue on 60m,
> but I will note, that I also checked the situation on 20m and it is the
> same. The problem is significant and might prohibit me from using the
> KAT500.
>
> Anyone know what might be going on?
> https://youtu.be/5EvByZDYI3g
>
>
> 73 Eugene W2HX
> Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@w2hx/videos
>
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Re: [Elecraft] TL-922

[Ken Winterling]

Be careful with the TL-922. An unmodified TL-922 has about 100VDC on the
keying line. I'm not familiar with the K3 so I don't know if its keying
circuit can handle that voltage/current.

I would check the K3 manual for its keying circuit specifications and also
measure the TL-922 keying line voltage. You may need a keying line buffer
(small relay or solid state high voltage transistor) between the K3 and the
amp.

*Ken*
*WA2LBI*




On Wed, Mar 29, 2023 at 4:05 AM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 3/29/2023 12:02 AM, Josep Torres via Elecraft wrote:
> > Have a couple of Kenwood TL-922’s around and was thinking to connect one
> to a K3.
>
> Hi Josep,
>
> I don't know that amp, but I've got K3s that I've used with both
> Elecraft and non-Elecraft amps -- three different Ten Tec models, an
> ACOM, and an Expert. In all cases, it was a matter of figuring out what
> pin on what connector puts the amp in TX mode, and using the Power
> setting on the K3 to set drive level. For all of those amps, a simple
> through cable from the K3 Key Out jack to the amp Key In worked. In
> general, the manuals for both K3 and the amps are our friend.
>
> You've got a great station -- I'm near San Francisco, and we've worked
> on CW on 160, 80, and 10! Not an easy path.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Stacking KPA on KAT

[Ken Winterling]

Like Jim, I've had my KPA on top for years. No heat issues because the KPA
generates the heat and it is on top.

Also, with all of the cables attached to the KAT500 I find it is better
having the KAT on the bottom so the cables lay flat on the table rather
than all of them arching over the back of the KPA amp.

*Ken*
*WA2LBI*




On Sat, Jul 23, 2022 at 11:37 AM James Bennett via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Paul,
>
> That’s exactly the way I’ve had my pair set up for years - works great.
>
> Jim / K7TXA
>
> > On Jul 23, 2022, at 9:33 AM, Paul Ecker  wrote:
> >
> > I am re-arranging the shack desk. Is anyone stacking the KPA500 on top of
> > the KAT 500? Any weight or heat issues ? Or is it ok to do?
> >
> > 73 Paul w2eck
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Re: [Elecraft] Oh Crap

[Ken Winterling]

How about this tool? I've used smaller versions to remove pins in connetors.

AmazonSmile: Headphone Plug Extraction Tool- Remove Broken Headphone Plug
from Headphone Jack of Mobile Devices : Electronics


*Ken*
*WA2LBI*


On Wed, Jul 20, 2022 at 12:38 PM Chris Cox, N0UK  wrote:

> I have suffered the very same failure but on my K3.  Despite extensive
> attempts on my part, removing the dislodged tip has proven futile and it
> appears that the female jack will need to be replaced.  Removing it might
> help but it’s just too finicky for me.
>
> Chris Cox, N0UK
> chr...@chris.org
> https://www.credly.com/go/IR77aRbH2rFDdOiymuxu2w
>
>
>
> > On Jul 18, 2022, at 07:30, Douglas Speer 
> wrote:
> >
> > I received my Ship Group 3 Elecraft K4;  in the middle of an across
> country move.  So it remained in the box until this past weekend. While
> setting up, in error I plugged my 1/4” tip/ring/ground paddle connector
> into the 1/4” KEY Jack on the back of the rig instead of the correct PADDLE
> jack. When I pulled the plug out of the KEY jack, the tip of the 1/4” plug
> broke off and is now lodged inside the KEY jack.
> >
> > It looks as if I will need to open the cabinet in order to extract the
> tip piece.  I can’t find any online photos of an open K4. Looks as if I
> should open the top.  Has anyone out there had the top cover off?  Any
> advice or precautions I should be aware of?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Kenwood MC-60 Mic with a K3?

[Ken Winterling]

Option "D")  Make an adapter that swaps the leads so you can use the
unmodified MC-60 on the Elecraft.

I prefer to make adapters for my rigs so I can use (almost) any mic I have
on (almost) any rig I have.

73,

*Ken*
*WA2LBI*




On Tue, May 17, 2022 at 4:46 PM Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:

> On 2022-05-17 1:19 PM, Eric Fitzgerald wrote:
>  >
>  > Can you use a Kenwood MC-60 desktop mic with an Elecraft K3?
>
> If you have an MC-60 (not MC-60A), you can use it "as is".  The
> only difference is that Elecraft and Kenwood reverse pins 5 and 6.
> Pin 5 is +8V for Kenwood, Pin 6 is +5V for Elecraft.
>
> If you have the "non 'A'" version of the MC-50 or MC-60, pins 5
> and 6 are not used.  If you have the "A" versions pin 5 is used
> to power the preamp in the base of the mic.  If you have the "A"
> versions you will need to do one of the following:
>   A) swap pins 5/6 in the Foster plug on one end of the coiled cord
>   B) move the wire from pin 5 to pin 6 on the 8 pin jack where the
>  coiled cord (PG-4C) connects on the base of the mic
>   C) leave the preamplifier (mic amp) switch in the "out" position.
>
> 73,
>
> ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 2022-05-17 1:19 PM, Eric Fitzgerald wrote:
> > Hello Wise and Powerful Reflector;
> >
> > Can you use a Kenwood MC-60 desktop mic with an Elecraft K3?  I seem to
> > recall the front panel jack is the same pin configuration as a Kenwood.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Eric KG6MZS
> >
> > www.kg6mzs.com
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering Tool Recommendations?

[Ken Winterling]

As I read that I could "hear" K2ORS, Jean Shepherd,   narrating the text with 
his inflections and enthusiasm. 
⁣
Ken 
WA2LBI​

On Mar 14, 2022, 19:46, at 19:46, Dave W8OV  wrote:
>I wonder how many of us have discovered Wayne's methods all by
>ourselves?
>
>Good one, Wayne!
>
>73,
>
>Dave W8OV
>
>On 3/14/2022 17:35, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> The following is only tangentially related, but it has to be dusted
>off periodically:
>>
>>  https://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html
>>
>> I wrote this long ago. Hopefully it's still as dubiously relevant as
>ever.
>>
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering Tool Recommendations?

[Ken Winterling]

I've had the Hakko 808 for many years. It has been used on through hole PCBs, 
boat anchors, toys, etc. There hasn't been any shortage of suction. Just keep 
the collection tube clean.  My only regret is that I didn't purchase it years 
earlier!

⁣
Ken 
WA2LBI​

On Mar 14, 2022, 18:25, at 18:25, Dave Fugleberg  wrote:
>Back when I was a bench tech doing component level repair, I used a
>vacuum
>desoldering station from Pace (I forget the model). That thing worked
>great- I pulled hundreds (maybe thousands) of through-hole parts from
>boards with it.
>
>They were (and are) expensive, but so are time and PC boards, so my
>employer equipped every bench with one. It had a glass tube in the
>handset
>that collected the solder. As long as you cleaned it regularly, it
>worked.
>
>I recently looked at some used ones but still couldn’t justify the
>price
>for my hobby needs, so I continue to use a variety of means to remove
>solder. None are as good as the Pace. I’ve been tempted to buy a Hakko
>or
>one of its knock offs, but reviews generally say they don’t have enough
>suction. I’d love to hear an honest comparison between the Pace and the
>Hakko from someone who has used both.
>
>73 de W0ZF
>
>On Mon, Mar 14, 2022 at 9:26 AM jerry  wrote:
>
>> It's hard to beat a good old big blue Soldapullt.
>>
>>To remove the offending part with minimal damage to its
>surroundings,
>> it's generally
>> wise to chop the part off its leads first.  Then if you have access
>to
>> both sides of the
>> board, you can heat each land with a soldering iron and pull the lead
>> out with a pair
>> of tweezers or needle-nose pliers.  Then suck the land clean with the
>> soldapullt.
>> Alternatively, you can clean it with solder wick, and poke the hole
>> through with a
>> toothpick.
>>
>>I haven't had much luck with desoldering irons.  I did buy a
>> desoldering station.
>> It has a vacuum pump in the base unit, and a separate iron in a
>stand,
>> with a vacuum
>> chamber and filter.  The pump starts when you pull the trigger on the
>> iron.  It's a
>> Chinese copy of a Hakko.  First of all, the pump is not very strong.
>> Not that much airflow
>> or suction.  Much less than a Soldapullt.  Second, it takes it a LONG
>> time to warm up,
>> I guess because the desoldering head has high mass.
>>
>> - Jerry KF6VB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2022-03-13 22:06, Tony wrote:
>> > All:
>> >
>> > Can anyone recommend a budget de-soldering iron that can be used in
>> > tight places? I need to remove a small component that has a few
>> > surface mount devices close by so the iron would need to have a
>small
>> > tip.
>> >
>> > Also need advice on the best soldering iron to use for this type of
>> > work as well as the best low-temp Rosin core solder to use.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Tony -K2MO
>> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Mic adapter: Icom SM-50 to K3 mic input jack

[Ken Winterling]

Bob,

Can you build adapters if you have schematics?
DIY gives you lots of possibilities.
⁣
Ken
WA2LBI​

On Nov 2, 2021, 09:35, at 09:35, Bob KD7YZ  wrote:
>Hello Elecraft List
>
>I have no microphone for my K3. I am usually on CW or the digital
>modes.
>Now I want to get on the KY Phone Net on 3838.
>
>So I talked DXEngineering and they know of no adapter plug/cable.
>
>So, I have an Icom SM-50 mic  and a Yaesu MD-100 mic.
>
>Anyone know of an adapter connector that would fit either to adapt them
>to the K3?
>Or maybe a universal box that lets me plug all the mic's in and have a
>cable to the K3 
>Also run an Icom IC-9700 FWIW.
>
>thanks!
>
>
>--
>73,
>KD7YZ Bob EM88LL
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500/KPA500 with IC-7610?

[Ken Winterling]

I have had the IC-7610 and the KPA500/KAT500 for over three years and it
works very well when I switch bands with the intention of transmitting. My
"nit" to pick is that the KAT500, as has been said, can not be preset by
the IC-7610 in receive. It can preset the KPA500, for all bands but WARC,
by using a DIY "band data" voltage cable (Icom doesn't support band data
voltages for the WARC bands).

If I want to *listen* to different frequencies on the IC-7610 that are on
different antennas connected to the KAT500 I have to manually select the
antenna on the KAT500. This makes scanning frequencies on the IC-7610
impossible.

The KPA1500, that combines an amp and antenna matcher (aka tuner), can read
Icom CI-V data and preset both the amp and the "tuner". This feature should
have been/should be available for the KPA500 and KAT500. I believe the
KPA500 and KAT500 can read data from Kenwood and Yaesu transceivers. Why
was Icom left out of the mix?

Ken
WA2LBI





On Sun, Aug 1, 2021 at 4:33 PM CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & KX3 with KPA500/KAT500

[Ken Winterling]

I use this four position AV switch to select the keying line. Since it can
switch three connections (L/R audio, video) you can get creative. Although
I don't use ALC it could also be switched along with the keying line.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1

Ken
WA2LBI





On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 3:37 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 7/30/2021 9:43 AM, Phil Hystad via Elecraft wrote:
> > Can this be done and if so has this been written up or documented
> someplace?
>
> The KAT500, KPA500, and KPA1500 have excellent frequency sensing, so
> nothing more than a SPDT coax switch is required. I suspect that the key
> lines from the KX3 and K3 can be paralleled. For many years, I've run
> the Key inputs of a KPA500 (and now KPA1500) wired in parallel.
>
> In my station, a K3 is switched between an 87A and a KPA1500. I'm doing
> it with a pair of Tohtsu SPDT coax relays on input and output. Before
> the KPA1500, the KPA500 gave me 500W on 6M, while the 87A was the HF
> contesting amp. Now the 87A is standby.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500/KPA500 with IC-7610?

[Ken Winterling]

Chuck,

I, too, have been using an IC-7610 with the KAT500/KPA500 combination for
several years. My IC-7610 TUNER jack is connected to the TUNE jack on the
rear of the KAT500 via a LDG Electronics IC-PAC-6 cable. While the TUNE
button on the IC-7610 or the TUNE button on the KAT500 activates the
IC-7610 10W tune function and causes the KAT500 to tune, the Elecraft
KAT500 manual stated "If a tune cycle is performed, 20 watts or more will
produce more accurate tuning".

My procedure is to switch to RTTY mode on the IC-7610 and key the rig. The
KAT500 matches the load and I return the rig to the previous mode. This
literally takes only a few seconds. Yes, the TUNE button works but I have
found that sometimes my method produces a better match. Be sure to follow
the KAT500 "training" procedure to store your various bands and frequencies
in the tuner so they can be quickly recalled.

As has been mentioned, you have to manually adjust your output as you
switch between the amp and full power. I have a Brother P-Touch label on
the amp to remind me about max power input.

As for obtaining a tuner cable, you can get one from LDG, and other
vendors. The IC-PAC-6 cable is 6' long while the IC-PAC cable is 14" long.
https://ldgelectronics.com/index.php/products/accessories/cables/

GL & 73!

Ken
WA2LBI



On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 12:55 PM Buck  wrote:

> I am running that combo now.  Plug a Ten-a-Tuner ($10) from W2ENY.com
> into the antenna tuner jack on the back of the 7610 or 7300.  When you
> push the rig's tune button it will send a 10w signal for about 8
> seconds.  The KAT500 reads the frequency and makes the switch also
> sending the info to the KPA500.
>
> You have to manually reduce the drive power from the 7610 or the amp
> will fault when you transmit.
>
> It is not as elegant as the Elecraft system but it works reasonably
> well.  I was told there was a cable that would connect the 7610 but I
> could not get my home-brew one to work.  If someone can point to a
> source, I would appreciate it.
>
> Buck, K4IA
> Honor Roll
> 8BDXCC
> Author EasyWayHamBooks.com
> License and Operating Manuals
>
> On 7/30/2021 9:12 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:
> > I'm currently running the K3S with the KAT500/KPA500 combo.  It works
> > great.
> >
> > I'm starting to look at what my next rig might be, and have tentatively
> > narrowed it down to the K4 and IC-7610.  I know the K4 will integrate
> with
> > the KAT/KPA just as well as the K3 does.
> >
> > How about the IC-7610?  Are there significant drawbacks in the
> > integration?  How well does the iCom handle things like training the KAT
> > for a new antenna via the rig TUNE button, or changing power levels
> > between barefoot and QRO, for example?   Are power settings per band
> > supported?
> >
> > Any advice appreciated!
> >
> > 73 de Chuck, WS1L
> >
> > chandler...@gmail.com
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Temperature or Warmth of KPA500 when "Off" ?

[Ken Winterling]

I use a sine wave UPS in the shack and an IOTA 55 amp power supply for
the rigs is plugged into that. Power blips and short outages do not affect
the station with the exception that the KPA500 will drop out since it is
running on 240V.  The UPS provides more than enough time to safely shut
down the rig(s) if necessary.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 4:30 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 7/1/2021 10:49 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
> > As to shutting down the Elecraft equipment.
>
> It is VERY important to turn the K3 and K3S off at the radio, NOT by
> killing power it. When turned off, the rig writes its current  state to
> memory, so comes back to where it was when turned on next. If power
> drops while it's running, it returns to the last saved state.
>
> But if power drops for a second or so and is restored, the radio can
> come back up in a strange state that doesn't work. I've had this happen
> at least twice. K6XX taught me to leave the radio off without power for
> 15-30 minutes, then turn it back on. Both times I've done this, it came
> back just fine to the last saved state. Worst case, it may be necessary
> to do an EEINIT.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Temperature or Warmth of KPA500 when "Off" ?

[Ken Winterling]

John,

You could build a 220/240V outlet with a remote switch using a couple
electrical boxes.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 1:01 PM John Nicholson 
wrote:

> Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a 220V power strip? My
> searches come up empty handed. I would like to plug the KPA500 into the
> strip to turn it totally on off. The power switch on the back of the amp is
> inconvenient to reach in my shack.
>
> John K7FD
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Temperature or Warmth of KPA500 when "Off" ?

[Ken Winterling]

Phil,

No need to unplug the KPA500 when not in use. There is a master power
switch on the rear panel that will disconnect everything.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 11:41 AM Louandzip via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

>  I use a clamp on ammeter and a short power cord jumper with the wires
> separated where I can clamp over the black wire.  That quantitatively tells
> me the power being consumed/dissipated. Keep in mind temperature is
> intensive whereas heat is extensive.
>
> Lou W7HV
>
> On Wednesday, June 30, 2021, 9:32:28 AM MDT, Phil Hystad via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
>  Living in the Pacific Northwest and having just gone through a big bath
> of heat I have become a temperature detective.  Anything not being used
> should not be radiating in the infrared spectrum above surroundings.  Thus,
> all of my radios are off.
>
> Or, so I thought.  I forgot that the KPA500 was still on though off and I
> put my hand on the side of the cabinet and discovered some dastardly warmth
> — a “no-no” in this non-air-conditioned house.  So, I unplugged the KPA500
> for the time being.
>
> But, I was surprised.  I would have guessed that I would not be able to
> sense any warmth from the cabinet as the surrounding environment should
> have kept it cooler.  It was not hot.  Just warm to the touch.  Definitely
> not as warm as my iMac computer that I am using at the moment.
>
> I should get my infrared temperature sensor and measure the actual
> radiated temperature and maybe I will do that some day.
>
> But, is this normal?  I assume that there is a small current powering a
> micro processor and its related circuitry but should it be actually that
> warm — is there a cpu burning "idle loop" used and thus causing high
> current flow thru the processor.
>
> If it were not for the fact that breakfast is almost ready (steel cut
> oatmeal) I would plug the KPA500 back in and wait a while and then measure
> the temperature of the cabinet.  I will do that later.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
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Re: [Elecraft] Don't Shoot!

[Ken Winterling]

Richard,

If there is any overshoot, my KPA500 hasn't complained. I have both an
IC-7300 and an IC-7610.  The KPA500 is teamed with the KAT500.
The keying line is routed through the KAT500 and the rigs are both set for
a 15ms transmit delay.
I do not run an ALC line on either rig. The rig power is set to roughly
21%; adjusted slightly as necessary.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 8:10 PM Richard  wrote:

> Is there an RF overshoot problem using an IC-7300 with a KPA500?
>
> Richard - W4KBX
> _
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 with Icom 7300

[Ken Winterling]

Steven,

I use a KPA500 (and KAT500 tuner) with both an IC-7300 and an IC-7610. Both
have the transmit delay set for 15ms.
The amp is keyed directly from either rig using RCA/RCA cables from the
SEND jack to the amp's keying jack.
I do not use a keying line buffer between the amp and either rig. The amp
has a very low voltage/current keying circuit.
I also do not use the ALC line. Transmit power is set at about 21%.

The only other important cables are the coax from the radio to the amp and
from the amp to the tuner. I also have a cable
from the 7300 or 7610 tuner port to the KAT500.  Your LDG tuner probably
already has the cable.

I don't believe the LDG tuner can interrupt the keyng line to the mp the
way the KAT500 can. You will need to be careful to
put the amp in standby before initiating ay tuning operation so you do not
hot switch the amp or provide it with a very high SWR
or no antenna connection.

GL!

Ken
WA2LBI





On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 5:16 PM Steven Roth  wrote:

> I am running an Icom 7300 with an LGD tuner.  Putting together the KPA500
> kit.  Can anyone with same setup give me advice on cable hookups between
> radio and amp?  Are there any IC 7300 settings required?  Yes, I have the
> manuals.
>
> Thanks, Steve AD4K


>
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Re: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

[Ken Winterling]

The cable between the IC-7610 and the KAT500 does two things. First, it
supplies power to the KAT500 so it turns on when the IC-7610 is powered up.
Second, it allows the TUNER button on the IC-7610 to cause the '7610 to
switch to CW mode and transmit an approximate 10W signal. That, in turn,
causes the KAT500 to attempt to find a matching solution to the selected
antenna. You shouldn't need one of those "tuner plugs" as that function is
built into the KAT500 when connected by the AH-4 Molex cable wiring. The
above assumes that you have the KAT500 connected to the IC-7610 ANT1
antenna port.

If your KAT500 is not working that way with the IC-7610 TUNER button then I
would recheck the cable wiring and verify that the KAT500 is connected to
ANT1 on the IC-7610. If those are good it is possible there is a problem
with the KAT500.

Good luck!

Ken
WA2LBI






On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:06 PM Buck  wrote:

> Auto-sense works.  I just don't understand why Icom/Elecraft would even
> suggest hooking up the molex connector to the KAT500 if it doesn't do
> anything.  It is a waste of time.
>
> I got the W2GNY plug to fool the 7610 into transmitting as 10 signal and
> it works.  I guess I will stick with that.
>
> Buck, k4ia
> Honor Roll
> 8BDXCC
> EasyWayHamBooks.com
>
> On 4/19/2021 2:31 PM, Ken Winterling wrote:
> > Buck,
> >
> > I have had the IC-7610 and KAT500/KPA500 for almost three years and they
> > are a very nice pair (or trio..). The IC-7610 doesn't "control" the
> > KAT500 per se. Changing bands/frequencies on the IC-7610 doesn't cause
> > any response from the KAT500. Only when the IC-7610 transmits does the
> > tuner detect (sense) the RF and then adjust the capacitors and inductors
> > to match to the current antenna. An Elecraft transceiver, OTOH, does
> > communicate with the KAT500 (and KPA500) and changes
> > bands/frequencies/antenna ports as the bands and frequencies are changed.
> >
> > The KPA500 responds the same way and changes bands by sensing transmit
> > RF. You can build a "band data" cable to interface the IC-7620 to the
> > KP500 and it will, with restrictions, follow the band selected by the
> > IC-7610. The restriction is that Icom's band data voltages do not
> > support the WARC bands. As a result, both 24 mHz and 28 mHz select
> > 28mHz; both 18 mHz and 21 mHz select 21mHz. So, for all bands except
> > WARC, the KPA500 will follow band selections made on the IC-7610 (or
> > almost any other Icom such as the IC-7300, etc.).
> >
> > I can send you a diagram of the band data cable if you would like. It is
> > only marginally useful and most ops of non Elecraft gear seem to just
> > let the KPA500 (and KAT500) RF sense the transmitted RF to make
> > necessary selections. Be sure to read the KAT500 manual section
> > regarding "training" your tuner.
> >
> > GL!
> >
> > Ken
> > WA2LBI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 2:05 PM Buck  > <mailto:radiok...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> > I made up the cable from the Molex to the TUNE on the KAT500 as
> > described and have checked continuity from end to end.  All OK.
> >
> > I have the SEND from the 7610 connected to the PTT RLY on the KAT500.
> >
> > When I change bands, nothing happens.  Is there another setting I
> need
> > to change in the 7610?
> >
> > Buck, k4ia
> > Honor Roll
> > 8BDXCC
> > EasyWayHamBooks.com
> >
> > On 4/19/2021 10:35 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:
> >  > Buck -
> >  >
> >  > The KAT500 Rev D1 Manual, pages 13, 14 and 15 cover the Icom
> > connections.
> >  >
> >  > The "AH4" cable (the one you're describing) powers the KAT500 and
> > controls
> >  > the "Tune" function.  If yours isn't doing anything, the cable is
> > probably
> >  > defective.
> >  >
> >  > What else do you have connected?
> >  >
> >  > 73
> >  > Lyn, W0LEN
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > -Original Message-
> >  > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> > <mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>
> >  > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> > <mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>] On Behalf Of Buck
> >  > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 7:42 AM
> >  > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> >  > Subject: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

Re: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

[Ken Winterling]

Buck,

I have had the IC-7610 and KAT500/KPA500 for almost three years and they
are a very nice pair (or trio..). The IC-7610 doesn't "control" the KAT500
per se. Changing bands/frequencies on the IC-7610 doesn't cause any
response from the KAT500. Only when the IC-7610 transmits does the tuner
detect (sense) the RF and then adjust the capacitors and inductors to match
to the current antenna. An Elecraft transceiver, OTOH, does
communicate with the KAT500 (and KPA500) and changes
bands/frequencies/antenna ports as the bands and frequencies are changed.

The KPA500 responds the same way and changes bands by sensing transmit RF.
You can build a "band data" cable to interface the IC-7620 to the KP500 and
it will, with restrictions, follow the band selected by the IC-7610. The
restriction is that Icom's band data voltages do not support the WARC
bands. As a result, both 24 mHz and 28 mHz select 28mHz; both 18 mHz and 21
mHz select 21mHz. So, for all bands except WARC, the KPA500 will follow
band selections made on the IC-7610 (or almost any other Icom such as the
IC-7300, etc.).

I can send you a diagram of the band data cable if you would like. It is
only marginally useful and most ops of non Elecraft gear seem to just let
the KPA500 (and KAT500) RF sense the transmitted RF to make necessary
selections. Be sure to read the KAT500 manual section regarding "training"
your tuner.

GL!

Ken
WA2LBI





On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 2:05 PM Buck  wrote:

> I made up the cable from the Molex to the TUNE on the KAT500 as
> described and have checked continuity from end to end.  All OK.
>
> I have the SEND from the 7610 connected to the PTT RLY on the KAT500.
>
> When I change bands, nothing happens.  Is there another setting I need
> to change in the 7610?
>
> Buck, k4ia
> Honor Roll
> 8BDXCC
> EasyWayHamBooks.com
>
> On 4/19/2021 10:35 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:
> > Buck -
> >
> > The KAT500 Rev D1 Manual, pages 13, 14 and 15 cover the Icom connections.
> >
> > The "AH4" cable (the one you're describing) powers the KAT500 and
> controls
> > the "Tune" function.  If yours isn't doing anything, the cable is
> probably
> > defective.
> >
> > What else do you have connected?
> >
> > 73
> > Lyn, W0LEN
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Buck
> > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 7:42 AM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610
> >
> > Anyone who has succeeded, I could use some help.  The connection from
> > the 7610 molex antenna tuner jack to the "Icom in" jack on the KSAT500
> > doesn't do anything.
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Kpa500 not playing with my IC-7600

[Ken Winterling]

Tom,

While I do not have an IC-7600 I do use an IC-7610 with a KPA500; the cable
should be the same.
I use a DIY band data cable to connect the IC-7610 to the KPA500 and it has
worked for almost three years.

I'm curious as to the exact part numbers of the cables you purchased from
the two different vendors.
What are the vendor names?
Do you have a schematic diagram of either/both cables?

If you are interested, I can send you a schematic of the cable I built.

73,

Ken
WA2LBI





On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 2:43 PM Tom Ewing via Elecraft

wrote:

>
> Good day, and thanks for reading.
>
> My newly acquired KPA500 doesn’t want to play with my IC-7600.
>
> In operate mode when I key the radio, the LEDs on the KPA500 display solid
> into the yellow, and there is no output. The amp is not faulting.
>
> I’m using an Icom 7 pin DIN cable (two actually from two different
> vendors) and tried two different radios, both IC-7600s with the same
> result.
>
> In the KPA menus, I have set the “radio” option to “analog”.
>
> Am I missing something else?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tom
> W0XXX
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500+KAT500 interfacing

[Ken Winterling]

I would like to see an Icom CI-V interface for the KPA500/KAT500
combination. This is built into the KPA1500 which is a combination
amp/tuner/antenna selector switch. The KPA1500 "speaks" Elecraft, Kenwood,
Yaesu, and Icom. The KPA500 can use Icom "band data" voltages but that
doesn't support the WARC bands. There is also no communication with the
KAT500 to tell it what band/antenna to use.

Yes, the KPA500/KAT500 combination switches perfectly to the proper band,
frequency, and antenna on *transmit *but does nothing on receive.  When
just listening it is necessary to manually press the ANT(tenna) button on
the KAT500 to select the proper antenna for the selected frequency (band)
on the Icom radio. If you are trying to scan memories that doesn't work at
all. Having the ability for the KAT500 to follow the receiver so it could
select the proper band/antenna would be very helpful.

Has anybody built such an interface or know of an existing commercial
device that will perform the above function?

73,

Ken
WA2LBI





On Wed, Nov 18, 2020 at 4:01 PM Andy Durbin  wrote:

> Some people seem to get quite hostile when I carefully distinguish between
> "band data" and "frequency data".  For that reason I didn't emphasize that
> KAT500 needs FREQUENCY not BAND.
>
> The cable for "KPA500 polls Kenwood and KPA500 and KAT500 listen to
> Kenwood" can be cobbled together for probably under $10 assuming you don't
> have the connectors and cable in the junk bin.  You can also buy the cable
> from Elecraft.  It works fine as long as you accept that KAT500 can only
> follow VFO A (limitation of current firmware).  I was not satisfied with
> this (and other limitations) so I launched on a long, educational,
> rewarding, and sometimes frustrating, project to build a controller that
> made the Kenwood/KPA500/KAT500 interface work the way I though it should (I
> don't claim it works correctly , only that it works the way I want it to).
>
> I've provided the link before but links a cheap so here it is again -
> https://tinyurl.com/ycrszzbe
>
> 73,
> Andy, k3wyc
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500: Fails to tune, and shows 3:1 on good antenna on 18 MHz.

[Ken Winterling]

GL!

Ken
WA2LBI





On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 7:53 AM Dave Cole  wrote:

> Hi ken,
> Added the dummy, no problems, so it is the antenna...  Also, given it is
> a 6BTV with the 18 meter add on, and all other bands work, it is not the
> feedline...
>
> This makes it simple to fix!  It is either a break with the laws of
> physics as we understand them today-- or a connection has come loose.
> Given there are only two connections...  I suspect it will be a simple fix.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 9/13/20 4:24 PM, Ken Winterling wrote:
> > When you have issues like this the best test is to use a known good
> > dummy load. That removes the antenna system from the equation. See what
> > happens on 18mHz when transmitting into the summy load.
> >
> > Ken
> > WA2LBI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 13, 2020 at 6:58 PM Dick Dievendorff  > <mailto:d...@elecraft.com>> wrote:
> >
> > When unpowered the KAT500 is bypassed, ANT1.
> >
> > When the ATU is in mode BYP, yes, it’s bypassed.
> >
> > 73 de Dick, K6KR
> >
> >  > On Sep 13, 2020, at 15:52, Dave Cole  > <mailto:d...@nk7z.net>> wrote:
> >  >
> >  > Hello,
> >  > My KAT500 which worked yesterday, now shows a 3:1 on 18 MHz.,
> > only. Antenna is a single feedline to a 6BTV, and an analyzer says
> > all is good at low power.  At 100 watts, all seems good.
> >  >
> >  > All other bands seem OK at high power.
> >  >
> >  > Question:  When in bypass, is the entire tuner bypassed?
> >  > Question:  When turned off is the tuner bypassed?  Which antenna
> > is default?
> >  > --
> >  > 73, and thanks,
> >  > Dave (NK7Z)
> >  > https://www.nk7z.net
> >  > ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> >  > ARRL Technical Specialist
> >  > ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> >  > __
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> >  >
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500: Fails to tune, and shows 3:1 on good antenna on 18 MHz.

[Ken Winterling]

When you have issues like this the best test is to use a known good dummy
load. That removes the antenna system from the equation. See what happens
on 18mHz when transmitting into the summy load.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Sun, Sep 13, 2020 at 6:58 PM Dick Dievendorff  wrote:

> When unpowered the KAT500 is bypassed, ANT1.
>
> When the ATU is in mode BYP, yes, it’s bypassed.
>
> 73 de Dick, K6KR
>
> > On Sep 13, 2020, at 15:52, Dave Cole  wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> > My KAT500 which worked yesterday, now shows a 3:1 on 18 MHz., only.
> Antenna is a single feedline to a 6BTV, and an analyzer says all is good at
> low power.  At 100 watts, all seems good.
> >
> > All other bands seem OK at high power.
> >
> > Question:  When in bypass, is the entire tuner bypassed?
> > Question:  When turned off is the tuner bypassed?  Which antenna is
> default?
> > --
> > 73, and thanks,
> > Dave (NK7Z)
> > https://www.nk7z.net
> > ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> > ARRL Technical Specialist
> > ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Max power thru KPA 500 when off.

[Ken Winterling]

Brian,

According to the Elecraft KPA500 manual:

   1. *Never exceed 40 watts of drive to the KPA500 in OPER mode.*
   2. *You may run up to 200 watts through the KPA500 in STBY.*

I
Ken
WA2LBI





On Sat, Aug 1, 2020 at 1:51 PM Brian Comer  wrote:

> I have reason to connect two KPA 500s in series. What is the max power that
> can be input to a KPA 500 when it is turned off?
>
> Brian KF6C.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Convert a KXUSBa cable to KUSB

[Ken Winterling]

Bill,

I haven't looked into the electronic validity of what you are asking but I
would recommend building an adapter with a female jack and DB-15 vs cutting
off a working connector.

Ken
WA2LBI



On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 9:21 AM Bill Cotter  wrote:

> Somehow in the entropy of the universe and my cluttered shack/shop,
> I have managed to lose my KUSB cable for my K3. I found the earlier
> (silver) cable, but it doesn't have the FTDI chip and won't work
> with Win-10. In the process of searching for the KUSB I have
> managed to unearth two KXUSBa cables for my KX3.
>
> Since I don't need two KXUSB cables, I am contemplating cutting off
> the mini phone plug and wiring up a DB-15. Has anyone done this?
> And, anyone see a downside?
>
> Thanks es 73 Bill N4LG
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[Ken Winterling]

Dave,

Do you own either/both the KPA500 or KAT500 and are familiar with their
operation?

The KPA500 is not involved in the receive path, it is only used for
transmitting, so it doesn't cause an issue on receive.  When in standby the
amp is bypassed and the T/R circuit feeds the input to the output. That
output is connected to the KAT500 input.  My antenna system, for various
bands, is connected to the three outputs.

Yes, if I just want to monitor a number of bands/frequencies I can press
the KAT500 mode button repeatedly until the unit is in BYPass so that it
won't attenuate receive signals. Unless the KAT500 is bypassed the
last tuning solution will be applied regardless of band or frequency
selected on the rig.

Then, for each frequency I want to monitor, I can then press the ANT button
on the KAT500 repeatedly until the correct antenna for the desired
frequency is selected. Depending on the memory or VFO band/frequency
selected it may be necessary to do this repeatedly. This will not work at
all in the case of scanning.

When done listening on various bands/frequencies and I want to return to
transmitting I have to press the KAT500 mode button repeatedly until the
unit is in MANual.  Then press the ANT button on the KAT500 repeatedly
until the correct antenna for the desired frequency is selected.  All off
this is doable but I'm looking for a more automatic system like that
built-in to the Elecraft equipment.

It appears that I need to design and build what I want.  I've taken up more
than enough forum time on this subject so it can be closed.

Thanks to All,

Ken
WA2LBI





On Fri, Jun 19, 2020 at 11:47 PM Dave  wrote:

> Ken,
>
> Can’t you simply press a couple of buttons on the KPA500 and the KAT500 to
> listen on a different band? No RF required. No tune required.
>
> 73,
> Dave N8AG
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[Ken Winterling]

 John,

The radio, an IC-7610, and the fact that I use a HB band data cable to the
KPA500, was included in my original post.  The band data cable switches the
bands on the amp, except for WARC, but there is no communication to the
KAT500 so it remains on the last band/frequency and antenna selected at the
last application of RF.  The problem is that if I am just listening and
select another band the KAT500 will not move to the correct band and
antenna. This is not a problem if I intend to operate on the new band but
it is particularly inconvenient when simply switching between radio
memories to check for activity on stored frequencies which could be on any
band/antenna.  It also affects memory scanning for the same reason.  After
a band change the KAT500 is not on the correct band and antenna so the
received signal is greatly attenuated.

Elecraft transceivers "talk" to both the KPA500 and the KAT500 and keep
them updated with frequency changes so the KAT500 selects the proper tuning
and antenna for the frequency selected on the rig without transmitting.
I'm looking for a solution that mimics Elececraft's operation.  An Arduino
project has been suggested to me and I might need to learn to program one
to read Icom CI-V data and communicate with both the KPA500 and KAT500 if I
can't find any other solution.  Apparently I'm in a very small minority
that would find this feature useful.

As for using a Top Ten band decoder, or any other decoder, to switch the
antenna system external to the KAT500 would not help with the KAT500 issues
of remaining on the last RF-selected band and antenna.  Simply changing the
antenna external to the KAT500 does not help with the KAT500 still being
tuned to the wrong band and antenna and attenuating the received signal.

*Ken *
*WA2LBI *
*LG G6 *


-- Original message--
*From: *j...@kk9a.com
*Date: *Fri, Jun 19, 2020 09:55
*To: *elecraft@mailman.qth.net;
*Cc: *
*Subject:*Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

The KAT500 only has three outputs which for me is insufficient and I
do not even operate WARC bands.  For the last couple of decades I have
used a Top Ten band decoder to switch antenna relay boxes. This worked
perfectly with my Yaesu line and now with my Elecraft K3S's.  You did
not mention your radio type in this post but if it has a band output
you could do the same and always be on the correct antenna.

John KK9A



Ken wa2lbi wrote:

I've had the amp and tuner for more than two years so I know about their RF
sensing. It works well when I'm changing bands with the intent of
transmitting.   However, as I said, that does not work when I am
changing bands on the rig to listen to different bands or scanning
different bands. If I am on 75M and want to check the conditions on 20M I
can't simply select 20M or a 20M memory and listen.  I have to transmit so
the KT500 will select the correct antenna.  If I'm not on a memorized
frequency in a KAT500 "bin" it will start tuning, taking up even more
time.

I'm looking for a solution that presets the KPA500 band, the KAT500 band,
and the KAT500 antenna without transmitting.  I believe an Elecraft
transceiver connected to the KPA500 and KAT500 can do that.

Ken
WA2LBI

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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[Ken Winterling]

I've had the amp and tuner for more than two years so I know about their RF
sensing. It works well when I'm changing bands with the intent of
transmitting.   However, as I said, that does not work when I am
changing bands on the rig to listen to different bands or scanning
different bands. If I am on 75M and want to check the conditions on 20M I
can't simply select 20M or a 20M memory and listen.  I have to transmit so
the KT500 will select the correct antenna.  If I'm not on a memorized
frequency in a KAT500 "bin" it will start tuning, taking up even more
time.

I'm looking for a solution that presets the KPA500 band, the KAT500 band,
and the KAT500 antenna without transmitting.  I believe an Elecraft
transceiver connected to the KPA500 and KAT500 can do that.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Thu, Jun 18, 2020 at 2:22 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> Hi Ken,
>
> All it takes to band switch both amp and tuner is a dit or a tap on the
> mic.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On 6/18/2020 10:23 AM, Ken Winterling wrote:
> > There is no provision at all to communicate with the KAT500 so it
> > must RF sense to switch bands and select the correct antenna.  While this
> > works well when transmitting it is of no value when you are just
> listening
> > or scanning.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[Ken Winterling]

I own a KPA500 and KAT500.  Both work very well with my Icom IC-7610 but
operation could be improved if they could communicate with the Icom CI-V
bus.  I do not own a KPA1500 but from my research I see it can communicate
directly with the Icom CI-V bus to switch the amp AND the internal
tuner/antenna selector when connected to an Icom rig without any RF being
transmitted. The KPA500 and KAT500 have no such CI-V capability.

The Icom band data connection on the amp works but does not address the WARC
bands. There is no provision at all to communicate with the KAT500 so it
must RF sense to switch bands and select the correct antenna.  While this
works well when transmitting it is of no value when you are just listening
or scanning.  The KAT500 will remain on the last band and antenna where RF
was present.  For example, my KAT500 has a 75M dipole on ANT 1 and a
40M-10M fan dipole on ANT 2.  If I am listening on 75M and then switch
bands to 20M the KPA500 will switch bands using the band data cable I built
(but not on the WARC bands...) but the KAT500 remains on ANT 1 and tuned
for the 75M frequency.  Of course, this seriously attenuates the 20M
signals.

I would like to see a plug-in product that connects to the IC-7610 (or
other Icom), the KPA500, and the KAT500 that reads the Icom CI-V bus
commands and sets BOTH the KPA500 and KAT500 to the correct band without
transmitting, and in the case of the KAT500, also selects the proper
antenna for the frequency.  Since the KAT500 antenna is assigned per band
in the KAT500 programming I believe the KAT500 would only need to know the
frequency then it would select the proper antenna from its internal memory.

If such an Icom CI-V plug-in device already exists that addresses BOTH the
KPA500 and KAT500 issues outlined above please direct me to the product(s).

Thanks & 73,

Ken
WA2LBI





On Thu, Jun 18, 2020 at 12:29 PM Gmail - George  wrote:

> Paula Keezer NX1P modified a KPA500 to allow it to be driven to about 500
> watts by a KX3.
> She published it - but I can not find it on the web.
> The mod increased the gain by less than 3 db (seems I recall 2.something).
> You would need the 12 to 15 watts to drive it to about 500 watts.
>
> The modification involved removing the input pad and modifying the feed
> back
> loop to the microprocessor.
> I thought about doing the mod to be able to run a net with my KX3 if my K3
> quit.
> I have a KXPA and decided not to do the modification.
> I can just remove my KX3 & KXPA from my truck if I ever need a backup to
> drive the KPA500. Probably 10 minutes work and find the bag of portable
> cables.
>
> BTW - Ms. Keezer's modification was very detailed and she had many
> cautions
> regarding doing the modification.
> It defiantly was not a matter of "cutting a jumper" to remove the input
> pad.
> You need remove the pad parts and change the number of turns in a
> transformer.
>
> Defiantly would void the warranty and make factory repairs iffy depending
> on
> Elecraft's policies.
> Other manufacturers  I have worked with would restore the amp to factory
> while repairing it.
>
> As a ham you are not limited to the 15 db gain restriction - the
> manufacturer is but not you.
>
> 73
> George AI4VZ
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Charlie T
> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2020 9:06 AM
> To: 'Nr4c'
> Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500
>
> Isn't there some sort of "jumper" or ???, that will increase the gain to
> something other than the ridiculous and prohibitive +13 dB figure,  for
> "international" (wink-wink) sales, sorta like the "MARS" mod in almost all
> radios these days?
>
> 99.9% of the chicken band users today are happy with their 5 watt radios.
> However, that restrictive and useless  +13 gain law does NOTHING to stop
> the
> REALLY big guns on 27.025 who typically run amps using tubes that have
> HANDLES on them!
> (I've personally seen channel 6 mobile set-ups running power in excess of
> 25
> kilowatts.)
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> On
> Behalf Of Nr4c
> Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 3:14 PM
> To: Paul Gacek 
> Cc: Don Putnick ; Elecraft Reflector
> 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500
>
> The KAT500 has three antenna out ports. It only needs one In so the KPA500
> needs only one out port.
>
> As for the 10 W in and 500 out idea.  That is prohibited by law. They’re
> only allowed to sell an amp with max gain of 13dB.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
>
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> 

Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KS

[Ken Winterling]

If you insert a jumper in the jack on the side it raises the voltage to
14.2.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 3:59 PM Richard Donner 
wrote:

> Hi Ken
> Thanks for the info.
> I am  not in a rush yet.   I noticed that the voltage is 13.4.. Maybe a
> little higher might be better.  Not sure on the last point.
> I will check what else they make
> TU   73
> Richard
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 12:51 PM Ken Winterling  wrote:
>
>> Richard,
>>
>> I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (
>> https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls55.htm).  It provides 55 amps,
>> doesn’t produce RFI, is audibly quiet, and rugged.  The dimensions are 9.7"
>> x 6.7" x 3.4" and the weight is 5.0 lbs.  Mine is on 24/7/365.  IOTA also
>> makes them in other output voltages and currents.
>>
>> Ken
>> WA2LBI
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 15:21 Richard Donner 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I need  to get a new power supply for my upcoming K4 and accessories
>>> before
>>> my present 40 year old supply goes belly up.
>>> I want reliability and no fussing , fixing or modifying  things. Any
>>> recommendations.
>>> I heard that some of the old brands are not what they used to be.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Richard   wa6kyr
>>>
>> --
>>
>> Ken
>> WA2LBI
>>
>> Sent from one of my mobile devices
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KS

[Ken Winterling]

Richard,

I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (
https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls55.htm).  It provides 55 amps, doesn’t
produce RFI, is audibly quiet, and rugged.  The dimensions are 9.7" x 6.7"
x 3.4" and the weight is 5.0 lbs.  Mine is on 24/7/365.  IOTA also makes
them in other output voltages and currents.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 15:21 Richard Donner  wrote:

> I need  to get a new power supply for my upcoming K4 and accessories before
> my present 40 year old supply goes belly up.
> I want reliability and no fussing , fixing or modifying  things. Any
> recommendations.
> I heard that some of the old brands are not what they used to be.
> Thanks,
> Richard   wa6kyr
>
-- 

Ken
WA2LBI

Sent from one of my mobile devices
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Re: [Elecraft] Hum on KPA1500

[Ken Winterling]

Carl,

Does this also happen when directly connected to a dummy load?  If not then
maybe you have an RFI problem.  Check all antenna connections and jumpers.

GL!

Ken
WA2LBI



On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 4:51 PM Carl Yaffey  wrote:

> I have developed a loud hum with the KPA1500 on 17m and 15m. A slight hum
> on 20m. All other bands, no hum.
> It’s power dependent. Loud at full power, hum reduces as power is lowered.
> Not too bad at 500w.
> Suggestions?
> 73.
>
> Carl, K8NU.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fault

[Ken Winterling]

Ken,

I have the same amp but have not experienced the problem you describe.
When issues like this occur it is best to isolate the suspect device to
minimize the variables.

Before doing anything have you tried turning off the power switch on the
rear of the amp?  Wait 10 seconds then turn the switch to ON.  Press the
front panel power ON button and check the panel buttons.

If that doesn't correct the issue then disconnect every cable from the amp
except the power cord and antenna.  Connect the amp to a dummy load.  Turn
off the power switch on the rear of the amp.  Wait 10 seconds then turn the
switch to ON.  Press the front panel power ON button and check the
panel buttons.

If that fails to correct the problem you probably need Elecraft support.

Keep the group posted.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 4:19 AM Ken Chandler  wrote:

> Hi guys
> While I'm waiting for Elecraft support to come forward with a suggestion,
> I thought I'd share my KPA500 (sn 0212) Amp's fault to see if it rings any
> new year bells with anyone...hi
> Just be4 Xmas I started getting an occasional fault whereby the Standby
> switch would lock up, then after a few minutes another press of STBY and it
> would go Green.
> However now it's locked on STBY and won't budge plus all the other press
> switches are locked out too like EDIT etc.
> Other strange things are happening too, pressing tapping EDIT changes the
> band in the Amp.
> In 2019, I installed the USB kit into my K3, previous to this I've fully
> upgraded the K3 to full spec.
> When the K3 and Amp are both turned on the Amp senses the K3's current
> band setting, but everything on the Amp is locked up.
>
> Appreciate any info or suggestions chaps!
>
> HNY
> Regards
>
> Ken.. G0ORH - K3 full K line plus K2.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] When Transmitting on FT8 - KPA500 has issues - KD8ZYD

[Ken Winterling]

Fred,

Does this condition also happen on SSB, RTTY, CW or only while running
digital mode?

Is it possible the PTT/key line is being dropped?  When the power drops is
there an asterisk (*) on the left side of the KPA500 display?  An asterisk
will appear on the left side of the LCD display if there is a valid PA KEY/
PTT signal is being received from the transceiver. If there is no asterisk
the amp isn't receiving a valid PA KEY/PTT signal from the transceiver.  If
there is an underscore instead of an asterisk it means that the amplifier
keying is being inhibited by a low signal on pin 11 of the AUX connector.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Mon, Jul 1, 2019 at 9:06 PM Fred  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500 and a SignaLink for sound.  Sometimes when
> I transmit on FT8 running full power on the KPA500, the KPA500 will click
> on/off.  The power doesn't turn on/off, it seems like a relay inside.  The
> power meter will go to about 500 watts, then down to 0, then to abut 500
> watts...and down to 0 maybe once a second.  I have a short video I can send
> if someone would like to see it.  When I bypass the KPA500 and use 50 watts
> or so just on the K3, no issues.
>
> Please let me know if you have any questions.
>
> 73, Fred
>
> KD8ZYD
> --
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Silent power supply for a K3s

[Ken Winterling]

I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (https://www.iotaengineering.com/
dls55.htm).  It provides 55 amps, doesn’t produce RFI, is audibly quiet,
and rugged.  Mine is mounted under the radio table and is on 24/7/365.. I
never hear it. Iota also makes them in other output currents and voltages.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 3:27 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> I find Mark's point very important.   Obtain and use a supply which is
> more than adequate for the service or load.  Thus a 25 amp supply
> feeding a radio drawing 20+ amps will need lots of cooling.   This is
> not the way to do it.   Get a 50 amp supply for a radio drawing 20+ amps
> and the fan(s) will likely never come on. Go the cheap way and get
> the cheap results.Do it right and be happy.   Don't be a cheap ham
> and then complain about the product you purchased.
>
> There is more to choosing a power supply than volts and amps. How about
> duty cycle?  And CCS rated supplies vs. ICAS rated supplies.   Humm...
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 6/9/2019 2:12 PM, Mark Murray via Elecraft wrote:
> > Peter,
> >
> > Check out the high amperage 13,8 volt power supplies offered by Samlex
> > America at the following link, and in particular their 100-amp -plus
> > (continuous) supplies where the fans do not activate for low draws.  You
> had
> > mentioned something about price not being so important.  These ain't
> cheap.
> > 73 de Mark .w2or.
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 AC Mains wire colours

[Ken Winterling]

Doug,I don't have a KPA1500 but these are the standard power cord wire
colors and functions:

*Function   USA  Europe*
Neutral   WhiteBlue
Hot Black Brown
Ground   Green   Green/Yellow stripe

If there is any doubt you can send an email to Elecraft; they are very
responsive and helpful.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Sat, May 18, 2019 at 5:36 AM Doug Turnbull  wrote:

> Dear OMs or YLs,
>  I have a new KPA1500 for use in Europe.  Mine came from Elecraft
> direct
> and thus has a US style mains plug and I assume US colour coded AC power
> lead.What are the USA colours for Live, Neutral and Ground?
>
> The manual does not supply a schematic and I do not want to open the amp at
> this time.   I can look on line for this information but am asking as
> regards the KPA1500 so as to be certain.
>
> Thank you.
>
>  73 Doug EI2CN
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Mobile high power

[Ken Winterling]

I believe all of the vehicles I've owned have had a statement in their
manuals about transmitters.  Despite that, vehicles from many
manufacturers, domestic and foreign, are used in services that use
transmitters such as police, fire, ambulance, taxi, etc.  Some services use
multiple radios in vehicles covering everything frequencies from HF through
900mHz (and above?) and varying power levels.  I have yet to see one of
those vehicles have any RF-related problems affecting vehicle electronics.

If commercial radio installation companies can install transmitters in all
of these vehicles without harm it seems to me that hams can do it using
similar installation procedures.  They are carfeul as to where power is
sourced and fused as well as to how power, control, and antenna wires are
routed in the vehicle.  None of my radio installations since 1970 have ever
caused a problem in any vehicle I owned.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 12:51 PM Steve Sergeant  wrote:

> My 2014 Honda Insight includes an almost identical statement in its manual.
>
> I've only dared operate HTs with magmounts in this car, so far with
> impunity.
>
>
> On 5/6/19 9:45 AM, Phil Hystad via Elecraft wrote:
> > My 2018 Toyota RAV4/Hybrid has a warranty statement saying “Do not
> operate mobile based radio transmission equipment” and that this could (not
> would but could) violate the warranty.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Wing Nut Replacement

[Ken Winterling]

Below is another solution.  Hurricane wing nut drivers are a possibility.
On small wing nuts I have used a cup hook driver bit.   They look like a
"Y".

Wing Nut/Bolt Driver:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-SpeedLoad-Wing-Nut-Bolt-Driver-AR2011G/205193156?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-7_POWER+TOOL+ACCESSORIES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c7170034127227%7c5873933021549%7c92700031755124901=EAIaIQobChMIwbOL94KC4gIVEovICh39lgL1EAQYASABEgL1_fD_BwE=aw.ds



Ken
WA2LBI


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 7:46 PM Jim N7US  wrote:

> That's nicer than my solution, which was to set the back of the amplifier
> on
> a temporary spacer (a thin book?) and remove the spacer after tightening
> the
> wing nut and plugging in the power cord.
>
> Jim N7US
>
> -Original Message-
>
> I usually struggle to reinstall the wing nut on the KPA1500 ground stud
> because there is so little room underneath the cooling fans for your
> fingers.
>
> I decided to replace it with a brass knurled "thumb nut" which leaves a bit
> more room.  Before / after photos here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/jVY2uYecP6a3VuGk7
>
> This is an #8-32 brass knurled "cap nut" (sic), Lowe's Item #137190
> <
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Count-8-Brass-Standard-SAE-Cap-Nuts/3012
> 498>
> (widely available from other sources too).  One nice thing about the Lowe's
> web site:  they display the aisle and shelf where you can find it at your
> local store, a cool feature that other brick and mortar stores should copy.
> Select your local store at the top.
>
> Pros of thumb nut vs. wing nut:  easier to start and remove, looks nice
> Cons:  can't tighten it as much as the wing nut without pliers, and it
> rolls
> under the amp easily if you drop it.
>
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- Strange speaker problem

[Ken Winterling]

Joel,

I don’t own a K3 so I am not familiar with all of the audio output settings
but is it possible you have a set of headphones plugged in that is
disconnecting the speaker? If not, maybe a dirty headphone jack?

Ken
WA2LBI

On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 20:44 Joel Hallas  wrote:

> Tonight, when I turned on my early (sn 431), but upgraded to current, K3, I
> was surprised to find I had no speaker audio with either internal or
> external speaker(s). My first thought was that I had somehow fried the
> speaker AF amp chip. But then I found that the speaker audio worked fine if
> the CONFIG were set to SPKR + PH = yes. That would seem to rule out the
> speaker amp as the problem.
>
> Anyone experience this, or have any ideas?
>
> Thanks much!
>
> Regards, Joel Hallas, W1ZR
>
>
>
>
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-- 

Ken
WA2LBI

Sent from one of my mobile devices
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Re: [Elecraft] PS Comparison: Powerwerz SS-30DV vs. MFJ-4230MVP

[Ken Winterling]

Bob,

I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (
https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls55.htm).  It provides 55 amps, doesn’t
produce RFI, is audibly quiet, and rugged.  Mine is on 24/7/365.  Iota also
makes them in other output currents.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 8:57 PM krug261--- via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Greetings all,
>


> I am in the market for a compact power supply. The fact that Elecraft
> suggests/sells a third-party unit (SS-30DV) provides an automatic sense of
> comfort. However, always trying to complicate life I was also looking at
> the MFJ-4230MVP. Same dimensions, weight, power connections. I do like the
> variable voltage control on the MFJ. Not sure why I would need it, but
> seems useful.
>


> I doubt if anyone has BOTH units, but even your impressions of either of
> them would be very helpful.
> Thanks and 73, Bob KA2TQVKX3 #9842
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA/KAT500 Mystery Fail

[Ken Winterling]

Jack,

I assume the two cables you use are the RF coax cable and the PTT keying
line, correct?  The keying line should connect from the rig, then to the
KAT500, and finally the KPA500.  This allows the KAT500 to disable the
keying for the KPA500 during tuning or high SWR conditions.

It is possible that with moving the cables between the two rigs the keying
line cable has been damaged.  I have seen this before where a cable works
fine in one jack but not in another.  It is a matter of the cable being in
just the right position.  If you rotate it slightly it goes OC (Open
Circuit).

To simplify troubleshooting I would eliminate the KAT500 and plug the
keying line directly from the IC-7100 into the KPA500.  Put the amp on a
dummy load.

You said the '7100 doesn't key the KPA500.  You can check the KPA500
display for an asterisk (*) on the left side indicating that the amp is
receiving a keying signal (contact closure to ground) from the rig
('7100).  If you do not see that asterisk (*) then the amp is not  being
keyed by the rig.  Try a different cable to the rig.

If that doesn't work then try leaving the keying cable plugged into the amp
and unplugging the cable from the rig.  Touch to ground the center
conductor of the end of the cable you removed from the rig.  It should key
the amp and show the asterisk (*) in the display.  If the amp keys with the
cable grounded then it it time to look at the keying jack/circuit of the IC
-7100.

Let us know what you find.

Ken
WA2LBI





On Sun, Mar 10, 2019 at 10:28 AM  wrote:

> All,
>
> I have been using the KPA500/KAT500 combo with an IC-7300 and an IC-7100
> for
> around a year now. They are cabled and configured as per the Elecraft
> device
> manuals. The cabling is identical for the two transmitters (actually, I use
> the same 2 cables for both). All has been working properly with both radios
> until very recently. The amp and the tuner continue to behave properly with
> the 7300.



> The KAT500 continues to work perfectly with the 7100, however the
> KPA500 no longer band switches when I change bands on the 7100 and key up.
> In addition, the amplifier will not key. The 7100 still can put out full
> power with the KAT500 in line. I have not changed any setting in any of the
> 3 devices to my knowledge. It is like the KPA500 has become deaf to the
> IC-7100.
>
> After switching back and forth and looking at all device settings, I am
> baffled at this point! Is there anything in the way of rig to amplifier
> line
> signals that could inhibit band switching by the amplifier but not by the
> antenna tuner?
>
> Thanks for your thoughts.
>
> KD4IZ
>
> Jack Spitznagel
>
> FM19oo
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 refuses to turn on

[Ken Winterling]

Jim,

If you don't have a schematic you should download one.  According to the
schematic there isn't any internal fuse.
The 12VDC is passed from the rear panel jack through a polarity protection
diode to a choke then to a voltage regulator, a LM7805.

To start, you need to open the case and check that there is 12V on the jack
*inside* the case.  Then check if there is 5V at the regulator output.

If there isn't 5V at the outout check the regulator input side for
approximately 12VDC and work back through the choke and diode until you
find the defective component.

If the LM7805 has 5V on the output then it is likely there is a logic
failure and you should contact Elecraft.

Gl!

Ken
WA2LBI


On Thu, Feb 14, 2019, 09:01 Jim Douglas via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:

> Hi All,I have the K line here. I was listening to a QSO and out of the
> blue my KAT500 lost power.I disconnected everything from the KAT500 and
> then reconnected. The power plug has 12 volts so that is not the
> problem.The KAT500 was set up to turn on automatically when I turned on the
> power supply and now that does not work anymore.When I press the mode
> button to turn on the tuner that does not work now either. Where do I start
> looking?


Thanks, Jim Douglas  K2ZF
> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Sorta OT - assistive technology assistance

[Ken Winterling]

JR,

Another approach to help your friend is to buy and install an inexpensive,
simple mixer as he can clearly make use of it now.  You can still build a
mixer for the experience.  After taking whatever time is necessary for
designing, building, and debugging in your shop you can try it out at your
friend’s location for a “real world” evaluation by a real “end user”.  His
feedback may give you an opportunity to provide improvements to your design
or tailor it to his specific needs/desires.

Ken
WA2LBI



On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 10:57 Walter Underwood 
wrote:

> Since you are dead set on building one from scratch, start here.
>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=audio+mixer+circuit
>
> You'll see a lot of four-channel mixers because quad op-amps are cheap,
> under $1.
>
> This one has the pots before the op amps.
>
> https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-an-audio-mixer/
>
> This one has the pots after the op amps.
>
> http://www.theorycircuit.com/audio-mixer-circuit/
>
> I’d be interested in the parts cost after you have chosen a design.
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
> > On Jan 10, 2019, at 11:36 PM, Richards  wrote:
> >
> > THANK YOU for the several replies to my mixer circuit question - both on
> and off the list.  Unfortunately, few actually answered the original
> question,  most often advising me to abandon the project or mix on a
> computer sound card.
> >
> > First - Thanks, Steve, for your input based on personal experience.
>  While I am familiar with your mixer, Tom prefers a device with stereo
> channels and outputs for both headphones and powered speakers. The model
> under consideration has only two control pots, making it easier to manage.
>  Tom truly appreciates your personal input and direct correspondence off
> list.   He puts a lot of stock in your take.
> >
> > Second - Tom prefers a simple hardware solution.   Locating a manual
> control next to the rig is much easier (for him) to manage, than mixing
> with a computer sound card.   Navigating multiple operating system windows
> is a serious challenge because he cannot see the monitor or use a mouse.
> This is not the preferred method for a contest or snagging rare DX before a
> pileup ensues.  Mixing on a computer would be very inconvenient;  close
> your eyes and try it some day!   It's easy for you to say ... but, not so
> easy for my friend to do.
> >
> > Third -  We can simply purchase a commercial product  (I recommend the
> Rolls MINImix MS22s stereo mixer, with just two pots, and outputs for both
> headphones and speakers)
> >
> > UNFORTUNATELY, THAT DEFEATS THE WHOLE POINT BEHIND MY QUESTION.
> >
> > While I do NOT wish to look a gift horse in the chops, or appear
> ungrateful for the advice received so far;  money is not the object as I
> want to LEARN how this type of circuit works, and do a favor for a friend,
> in one stroke. Advising me to save money and just buy a turn-key,
> off-the-shelf solution hardly fits the HAM RADIO TRADITION of
> experimentation and self-determination,  and teaches me nothing about
> circuit design.   I was hoping to build something MYSELF- earning that
> heady sense of self-satisfaction that accompanies the completion of a
> successful home brew project.  Considering all the experts on this list,
> including world class board certified AES audio man Jim Brown, I figured a
> simple summing circuit would be a snap.
> >
> > I close this thread with a big THANK YOU on behalf of my  ... um ...
> "client,"  whilst I repair to the proverbial drawing board to renew my
> search for a simple summing circuit.
> >
> > Happy trails to all.   JR
> >
> > (We return you to your regular daily programming content) ;-)
> >
> > -
> >
>
> --

Ken
WA2LBI

Sent from one of my mobile devices
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Re: [Elecraft] Yama CM-500 Replacement

[Ken Winterling]

Dick,

You said “My preferred headphone jacks are 1/4", and I've had trouble with
3.5mm to 1/4" adapters from another manufacturer staying solidly
connected.”  I agree, the 1/4” jacks/plugs are more rugged than the 3.5mm
especially for devices like headphones that are constantly
plugged/unplugged.

I rarely use “adapters” except for testing or “emergencies” as they put a
strain on the panel-mounted jack especially if the jack is a 3.5mm
supporting a 1/4” plug.  That is a long “lever” sticking out of the panel
on a tiny plug.  it is prone to damaging the panel jack and can be easily
bent by accidentally bumping it or pulling it sideways with the headphones.


My preference is to use “adapter cables” with a proper mating plug and jack
on a short cord.  It takes the strain off the panel-mounted jack.  The cord
should be long enough so that the jack is laying on the operating desk when
the plug is inserted in the panel jack.  You can buy cords with the proper
plugs and jacks or build them yourself.

This is also applicable to those RJ-45 type mic connectors.  I use a short
CAT5/CAT6 cable with a dual female data coupler to connect the mic to the
rig.  Use an adapter for every mic with a RJ-45 and will probably never
experience a failure of the mic plug clip.  If the adapter cable clip
breaks you only need to replace the short CAT cable jumper.

I have used adapter cords for years and never had damage to any mic or
panel jack.

Ken
WA2LBI

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 09:37  wrote:

> These are personal opinions, and headphones are a personal topic...  I
> have a substantial headphone collection from all the usual suspects
> gathered over the years. I seem to collect these things.
>
> An Inrad W1 from Vibroplex has become my favorite. My preferred headphone
> jacks are 1/4", and I've had trouble with 3.5mm to 1/4" adapters from
> another manufacturer staying solidly connected. I find the W1 more
> comfortable than most other headsets I have.  It has a relatively long cord
> and feels and looks sturdy. They grip my head a bit less tightly and feel a
> bit lighter than some of the other high-end over-ear headsets, but the
> isolation is quite good. I also like its dynamic microphone.
>
> I found a Sony wireless (Bluetooth) noise-cancelling headset WH1000XM3 on
> sale at Costco recently. It also has a wired connection, and should be
> useful to listen to content from my mobile phone or tablet when on an
> airplane, or to plug into the plane's entertainment system.  It lacks a
> microphone. It's relatively light and comfortable, but I haven't yet used
> it for a long contest.
>
> My old favorite Sony MD-V headset is still sometimes a good fit. I think
> it's now called an MDR-7506. It also lacks a microphone.
>
> I find it helpful to change headsets from time to time, just to change the
> pressure points. So I have several headsets around...
>
> 73 de Dick, K6KR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> On Behalf Of Richard Thorne
> Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 04:11
> To: James Bennett ; Elecraft Reflector Reflector <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Yama CM-500 Replacement
>
> Jim,
>
> I have a pair of Yamaha C-500's which I like a lot, however, I wanted to
> try something different that was built a little better.
>
> I picked up an Inrad W1 from Vibroplex.  Physically they are built much
> better than the CM-500.  They are over the ear like the CM-500's and they
> do a bit better job keeping the noise out.
>
> They are a little heavier than the CM-500 and have a a little more
> pressure (ie clamping) on your head.
>
> You will need a 1/4" to 1/8" stereo adapter for the phones if your rig has
> an 1/8" jack for the headphones.
>
> I've had the headset since October and used it for a serious effort during
> Nov Sweepstakes.  I had no issues during the 24 hour contest. They are
> keepers in my opinion.
>
> The mic is dynamic and I'm getting good audio reports.
>
> They are in a different price range than the CM-500 but worth adding to
> your list of candidates.
>
> Rich - N5ZC
>
> On 1/8/2019 9:00 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> > Sad to say, but my trusty old CM-500 headphones with boom mic finally
> bit the dust. The ear pads had started rotting away, leaving me with black
> pieces of gunk on my ears after every on-air session. Tried replacing the
> pads with a set of Koss pads but they simply were too small and I wound up
> breaking off the connectors going to the speakers. Life is too short to
> spend any more time messing with them, so it’s time to look for a
> replacement.
> >
> > I’d like to hear from others who are using a similar type of
> headphone/mic combo - one that is a direct plug-in to the back of a K3 like
> the Yamaha CM-500. If Yamaha would offer replacement parts to their users
> I’d consider getting another CM-500, but they don’t and I’m not inclined to
> buy something again that cannot easily be repaired.
> >
> > Suggestions…?
> >
> 

Re: [Elecraft] Killed the KPA500 :)

[Ken Winterling]

The power up state, “standby” or “operate”, is programmable.  I’ve always
felt is was safer to have an amp power up in standby in most cases.  Some
remote operators may want it to power up in “operate” but would have to
take measures to ensure the exciter was in standby at the time.

Ken
WA2LBI

On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 08:58 Michael Blake via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> My KPA500 does not power up in operate.  It always powers up in Standby.
>
> 73 - Mike - K9JRI
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Nov 16, 2018, at 8:52 AM, Michael Walker 
> wrote:
> >
> > I have the schematics, as someone was kind enough to send them to me.
> >
> > Yes, I forgot the KPA500 powers up in Operate.  It is the only Amp I own
> > that does this.
> >
> > I will mention it to Elecraft when I chat with them later today and
> suggest
> > the default should be the other way around.
> >
> > Mike va3mw
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 8:27 AM ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
> >
> >> "The unit was powered on and it came up in operate mode while the HF
> radio
> >> was in TX at 100w on 6M. End result is that the magic smoke got out. :)"
> >>
> >>
> >> I suspect this is a very common mistake for ops who sometimes use the
> amp
> >> and sometimes operate barefoot. I thought the KPA500 was designed to
> >> protect against that user error. Seems I was wrong.
> >>
> >>
> >> Suggest you contact support for schematics. Unless their policy has
> >> changed recently they will provide them to you.
> >>
> >>
> >> Andy, k3wyc
> >> __
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> >>
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> >>
> > __
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>
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-- 

Ken
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: KAT-500 interface cable question

[Ken Winterling]

The LDG IC-PAC-6 tuner cable is plug-n-play with the KAT500 and Icom’s that
support the mating external tuner connector.  It is 6’ long and costs $12
(plus shipping).  This is the same cable that came from my LDG tuner and it
works with my KAT500.

The cable also comes in a 14” version but that might be a rather snug fit
even if the KAT500 is stacked with a KPA500.  You wouldn’t have much room
to move either device to see the rear panels unless you moved the stack as
a unit.

LDG Electronics IC-PAC-6
SKU: ZLD-IC-PAC-6
https://www.gigaparts.com/ldg-electronics-ic-pac-6.html

Ken
WA2LBI

On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:14 Clint Talmadge  wrote:

> From: 
> Date: Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 10:54 AM
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KAT-500 interface cable question
> To: 
> Cc: Clint Talmadge 
>
>
> Clint,
>
> I looked at that as a possibility, did a cursory look at an MFJ auto-tuner
> schematic, then decided that it was too easy to make one with spare parts
> and heat shrink. I would hate to spend $20 plus shipping - only to have to
> cut off the heat shrink on the MFJ cable, disassemble, do surgery to
> replace the Molex, and put on new heat shrink if I chose poorly.
>
> Using the home brew cable, my 7300 and 7100 both work well with the KAT500
> which I use with a KPA500. Next projects will be to make a patching switch
> to pop between the two for when I do simplex DV on HF.
>
> I have not tried to use my KX3 with the KPA/KAT500 combo, but assume it
> would be easy.
>
> KD4IZ
> Jack Spitznagel
> FM19oo
>
>
>
> Jack - etal - I checked my parts and did not have the 4 Pin Molex needed,
> or the 2.1mm power plug. In looking for the Molex connector I found the
> cable which is exactly what is needed. The connectors and the wiring are as
> specified in the manual. When I first looked into it I thought the sleeve
> of the 3.5mm Stereo plug was left open but it was pointed out to me that it
> is in fact also ties to pin 4 of the Moles which is ground.
>
> You are very correct about the $20 plus shipping but I figured I would have
> to order the other two connectors and pay shipping on them also. One of the
> joys of living "out in the woods" is being able to string wires and install
> towers any where you want, but when you need a part you get to pay
> shipping.
>
-- 

Ken
WA2LBI

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Re: [Elecraft] Covers for Elecraft (and other) Gear

[Ken Winterling]

I can second that.  Jeff does a great job.  I got the single combination
cover for the KPA500/KAT500 with the two units stacked.  I had him add a
flap to the rear.  When I slide the cover on from the front the flap slides
out over the cables attached to the amp and tuner and covers the backs of
the units and cable connections of both units.  The rear of the units and
the attached cables remain dust free.



On Tue, Oct 23, 2018 at 20:30 eric norris via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I've been buying covers from a guy on Ebay that I am very happy
> with--including new KPA1500 covers.  Here's the link:
> jse-repair on eBay
> |   |
> jse-repair on eBay
>
> Follow jse-repair on eBay. Buying, Selling, Collecting on eBay has never
> been more exciting!
>   |   |
>
> 73 Eric WD6DBM



> --

Ken
WA2LBI

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Re: [Elecraft] HRD slow accessing K3 frequency controls

[Ken Winterling]

Bill,

Have you run the Windows Task Manager to see if the cpu, disk and/or memory
is being heavily utilized; stuck at 100% or thereabouts on a regular basis?

Ken
WA2LBI




On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 12:13 AM, Bill  wrote:

> Computer has a serial board with two ports. One for the K3 (P3) and one
> for the 480. Not used for anything else. No adapters.
>
> Pulled a two month old backup SSD out of the safe. No go - did not work
> then either.
>
> I am sure the computer is busy doing something - which I don't know about
> - causing a resource hog delay.
>
> This is why 99% of the time, I am running Linux Mint. But, the number of
> programs that really are good for ham radio and work on Linux is small.
> Most of the stuff is garbage. So I keep Windows around.
>
> I did find an Apple driver update - took it out and noticed no difference.
>
> This is becoming one of those things that is taking more time than it is
> worth. I think this is how MS wear their customers down. Long live Linux!
>
> Bill W2BLC
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] RS232 xcvr control when serial ports are occupied

[Ken Winterling]

Get an inexpensive RS-232 breakout box.  The LEDs and jumpers will help you
see what is happening on the data and control lines and enable you to
make/verify any cable you need.  Compact gender changers address the
male/female connector issue as well as the 25 pin/9 pin conversion.  I
still have a couple boxes that I used back in the 70s.

Ken
WA2LBI

On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 08:30 George Danner  wrote:

> In broadcasting - we learned very quickly interfacing equipment with
> RS232,
> that if it worked once it would continue to work.
>
> Back in the beginning of using RS232 interfaces (cira. 70s) one of our the
> engineers made a box with input/output pigtails in both male and female
> with
> a rotary switch that switched between straight through and "reverse" for
> all
> the various signals. Later we added 9 pin pigtails. Using that box quickly
> let us know what would work and how to make the interface cable.
>
> 73
> George AI4VZ
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Walter Underwood
> I never really understood RS-232 until I read “Technical Aspects of Data
> Communication” by John McNamara. Very clear. Not sure it is worth getting
> the book just for that, but you might check a library.
>
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-- 

Ken
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 amplification and microphone

[Ken Winterling]

Michael,

I have the KPA500 and the KAT500 but use them with an Icom IC-7610.  The
amp and tuner are a great combination.

Regarding the mic and varying power, you need to maintain a consistent
distance from the mic and a consistent audio level when speaking into the
mic or your power will drop off.   Watch the mic gain setting, you don’t
want it so sensitive that the mic picks up room noise.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Sat, Jun 30, 2018 at 09:29 Michael Gillen via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Hello guys!
>
> I got my very first amp on Wednesday, a KPA500 and started using it along
> with the KAT500 I ordered and a K3S I purchased last month.
>
> Here is my question: I noticed that when I transmit, the power output
> varies significantly depending upon how close my mouth is to the Kenwood
> MC-60 microphone (no batteries in the mic). Is this normal? And how do I
> make this more consistent? Try to always put my mouth in the same relative
> position? Buy a different microphone?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
> KK6RWK



> --

Ken
WA2LBI

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Noise While Off

[Ken Winterling]

Dick,

The KPA500 has a power supply switch on the rear panel adjacent to the
socket for the power cord.   When you press the OFF button on the front
panel the control circuitry is still active.  This permits software to
remotely power up the amp.  If you turn off that rear switch all power is
removed from the amp; the same as pulling the plug from the wall socket.

Ken
WA2LBI




On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 13:38 Richard Wade  wrote:

> Yesterday I heard a faint "hum" in my shack but all of my gear was off.  It
> sounded like possibly a fan running or power supply noise.  I did a very
> scientific test of the sound source by putting my ear to each piece of
> equipment in my shack and soon found that the noise was coming from my
> KPA500!  The amplifier was off but was still connected to the shack ac
> power.  I then removed the power cord from the KPA500 and the noise
> disappeared.  Does anyone have any idea how this could  happen?
>
> By way of further background, I have been dealing with QRN from a recently
> installed solar system.  I have traced the source of that noise to the
> solar system by confirming that the QRN goes away when the solar system is
> turned off while running my K3s on battery power.
>
> If I had to venture a guess, I would say that somehow the unpowered KPA500
> was picking up noise on the shack wiring.  Very strange. Is that possible??
>
> Dick, WM6G
>
-- 

Ken
WA2LBI

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