[Elecraft] K2 CAT

[jerry]

Hello K2 experts!

   I have a question about the CAT support - as implemented in the 
KPA100.  Is there a CAT command

to set transmit power?

   The situation is - the K2 is my main CW machine.  It has two killer 
features:  1) It has true quiet
diode-switched QSK.  and 2)  It fits perfectly under my two big computer 
monitors.  So I can log & mill-copy.  And also listen to the bands while 
I do work stuff.


   You'd think that 100W was plenty for CW - but I have gotten some weak 
reports from stations that I could hear well.  As a ragchewer, I prefer 
to be easily copy-able.  I have a homebrew 1100W LDMOS linear, but I 
could not use it with the K2 - because the linear has no bandswitch.  
Instead, it relies on Yaesu "BCD" data from the radio.  I wound up with 
this for two reasons - 1) Safety of the very expensive LDMOS device and 
2) the touch screen that I have has a problem where touch does not work.


   So I built a little box.  I reverse engineered the Auxbus just enough 
to recognize band changes, and my box outputs the 4 "BCD" bits.  Yeah I 
know that Elecraft markets a similar box, but where's the fun in that?  
My box has a Raspberry pi Pico.


  Generally, operating barefoot I use 80-100W.  But the linear would 
prefer that its drive be 17W or so.
It's completely protected; if the drive is too high, it will just shut 
down.  Then I have to press a button on the front panel to transmit 
again.


I was just thinking... if the CAT interface can set the power, I could 
have my little box do that.  The Pico has a couple of UARTs, and one of 
them could talk to the RS232 port.  So when I set my linear from
Standby to Operate, it could tell the box, and the box could magically 
set the power on the K2 to what's appropriate.


     - Jerry, KF6VB
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[Elecraft] K3s/P3 FS in the Greater Charlotte NC area

[Jerry Moore]

Anyone in the Greater Charlotte NC area looking to buy a K3s/P3?
I have a clean, low hours, non-smoker setup. Fred Cady books, all printed 
manuals/docs.
Respond offlist, Thank you.

Jerry D. Moore
AE4PB

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 down power on 20M

[jerry]

OK,

   With a dummy load - actually a 500W Bird 30dB attenuator - the 
displayed power out came up to 78W.
I tried adjusting the bandpass filter - it was already spot on.  They 
use one filter for 40M and 30M,
and you go back & forth between the two.  It was already perfectly 
peaked & tweaked.


   What about the KPA100?  I turned the power down to 10W, taking it out 
of the circuit.

20M - 9.6W
30M - 10.23W

  With power set to 40W:
20M - 41.7W
30M - 42.5W

  With power set to 60W:
20M - 56.8W
30M - 62.5W

  With power set to 80W:
20M - 71W
30M - 77.6W

  With power set to 100W:
20M - 78.6W
30M - 91.7W

 With power set to 110W:
20M - 78.6W
30M - 98.5W

  I suspect that the problem is in the KPA-100.  Maybe a wrong value in 
the LPF?
Power out with control set fully clockwise, into the dummy load, 
measured by the Telepost:

80M - 120W
40M - 104W
30M - 97.7W
20M - 79.4W
17M - 98.3W
15M - 88W
10M - 74.5W

  Interesting, according to the KPA100 manual, 20M and 17M share an LPF. 
 If it was out of whack, I'd expect 17M to be MORE

effected than 20.

   - Jerry, KF6VB






On 2024-03-16 09:10, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

But before that, I should redo the test with a dummy load.

Yes.

And it's not just gain decreasing with rising frequency, because it 
does 92W on 15M, 76W on 10M.

First suspicion ... check the alignment of your bandpass filters.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/16/2024 11:56 AM, jerry wrote:

Hello,

    I've been doing a bit of operation with my K2 lately.  It really 
is a joy on CW, and it fits perfectly under my big computer
monitors.  But I have noticed   On 40M, it does 101W out.  But on 
20, only 63W.  This is measured with a Telepost LP-100A vector

wattmeter.  The SWR is 1.4 to 1.

   And it's not just gain decreasing with rising frequency, because it 
does 92W on 15M, 76W on 10M.


   Guess it's time to get out the schematics...  But before that, I 
should redo the test with a dummy load.


      - Jerry, KF6VB










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[Elecraft] K2/100 down power on 20M

[jerry]

Hello,

   I've been doing a bit of operation with my K2 lately.  It really is a 
joy on CW, and it fits perfectly under my big computer
monitors.  But I have noticed   On 40M, it does 101W out.  But on 
20, only 63W.  This is measured with a Telepost LP-100A vector

wattmeter.  The SWR is 1.4 to 1.

  And it's not just gain decreasing with rising frequency, because it 
does 92W on 15M, 76W on 10M.


  Guess it's time to get out the schematics...  But before that, I 
should redo the test with a dummy load.


 - Jerry, KF6VB










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Re: [Elecraft] K4D for bargain price on eBay

[jerry]

On 2024-03-14 07:51, Gregory Mitchell wrote:


think the cost per toroid/snap-on


Here's something I found out about snap-on ferrites:  Don't depend on 
the plastic shell.  I had installed snap-ons
on the power leads of my homebrew LDMOS linear.  When I transmitted, I 
could hear my voice coming out of the box.
It was the ferrites buzzing.  I popped them apart, reinstalled with a 
drop of cyanoacrylate glue on each surface, and

all was well.

 - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] K4D for bargain price on eBay

[jerry]

On 2024-03-12 08:56, ev...@pa2kw.com wrote:

If someone could tell what manufacture/type/model these cores are, I'm
sure you can get this done for $20



*** Generally, it's well known what mix is required.  Here's a good 
article by Palomar Labs:


https://palomar-engineers.com/ferrite-products/ferrite-cores/ferrite-mix-selection


 - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Manual building method

[jerry]

On 2024-03-07 15:40, Fred Jensen wrote:

I'm colorblind and can't read color codes so every resistor
was checked with the ohmmeter.  I asked my wife once to read a couple
of color codes ... "That one is sort of a pinkish salmon, this one is
a light mauve."  Gave up on that.


I've sort of given up on resistor color codes myself.  The colors just
aren't as bright as they used to be;  they have more bands, and it's 
hard
to tell which is the first band and which is the last.  So I use one of 
those

little Chinese component testers with a ZIF socket.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YNB7K8G

It also works great for transistors, diodes & capacitors

    - Jerry, KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] Beware of junk mail: "four pictures to you from Elecraft List"

[jerry]

In my experience all these sleuthing techniques beyond looking at the
sending address are largely a waste of time and money unless you have 
the

ability to pursue the originating entity. My magic is the delete option


*** That's what I mostly do too.  Sometimes, I call my little boy to 
show him.
He's 10 years old, and will surely be getting his own email soon, and he 
needs

to know how to recognize this stuff.

  Speaking of pictures - my mailer has a setting to disable showing them 
inside emails.
It can be selectively enabled for specific addresses.  The reason for 
this is that
when you see a picture inside an email, it's often a link.  Your mailer 
reads the link
and automatically goes & gets the picturefrom the spammer's server.  
Which gives the

spammer a fair amount of information about your machine & environment.

   - Jerry, KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] Beware of junk mail: "four pictures to you from Elecraft List"

[jerry]

Once you find the initial IP address in the headers, you can use any 
number
of online searches to find out who it belongs to.  If you get a notice 
from
"Fedex", and it's from an IP that belongs to an ISP in Bulgaria, that's 
a pretty

good hint.

I mostly use this sort of search to satisfy my curiosity - but I 
generally already
know that it's a scam.  Often the English is bad, there are non-native 
expressions

etc.  But I don't expect that to continue.

 Sooner or later, the scammers will learn to do perfect American 
English.  Or will they?
  I've heard that grammatical gaffes help select for marks who are not 
smart or well educated -

because they're where the money is.

    - Jerry, KF6VB





On 2024-01-03 07:18, Bill Lederer wrote:

If you use google mail/gmail, there is a feature called "Show
Original" that you see if you click the three dots in the upper right
corner of the email.

You can also report phishing from that drop-down.

On Tue, Jan 2, 2024 at 6:08 PM jerry  wrote:


The email address means little.  Email systems will accept whatever
you
type in.  What's more meaningful is the originating IP address.
That's
hard to fake.  Most mailers have a "show headers" feature so you can
see
all the machines that the email passed through.

- Jerry, KF6VB

On 2024-01-02 14:26, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:

This underlines how important it is to use an e-mail program that
displays the originating address.  That "you've won a ..."  e-mail
from a major retailer is quickly revealed to be from some obscure
address (not Home Depot or Walmart, after all).  A couple of days

ago,

I received a message purportedly from a relative of my

sister-in-law,

who passed away last fall.  Happily, the originating address was a
giveaway - "Amanda Rosman ".

73, Pete N4ZR

On 1/2/2024 4:13 PM, Dave wrote:

I don't know if anyone else on the Elecraft list is receiving

this

nonsense, but I have reported it for enforcement action to the UK
Government reporting centre.

73 Dave G4AON
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--

--w8lvn--

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Re: [Elecraft] Beware of junk mail: "four pictures to you from Elecraft List"

[jerry]

The email address means little.  Email systems will accept whatever you
type in.  What's more meaningful is the originating IP address.  That's
hard to fake.  Most mailers have a "show headers" feature so you can see
all the machines that the email passed through.

       - Jerry, KF6VB


On 2024-01-02 14:26, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:

This underlines how important it is to use an e-mail program that
displays the originating address.  That "you've won a ..."  e-mail
from a major retailer is quickly revealed to be from some obscure
address (not Home Depot or Walmart, after all).  A couple of days ago,
I received a message purportedly from a relative of my sister-in-law,
who passed away last fall.  Happily, the originating address was a
giveaway - "Amanda Rosman ".

73, Pete N4ZR

On 1/2/2024 4:13 PM, Dave wrote:

I don't know if anyone else on the Elecraft list is receiving this
nonsense, but I have reported it for enforcement action to the UK
Government reporting centre.

73 Dave G4AON
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Re: [Elecraft] Using a RSP1a as a Panadapter

[Jerry Moore]

Andy, I used an SDR for a while and found it more trouble than it was worth 
imho. I just wanted something to work without any fuss so I splurged and picked 
up the P3. No regrets at all. 
Hope that helps. 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Andy Durbin
Sent: Tuesday, January 2, 2024 7:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Using a RSP1a as a Panadapter

"I see some people are using HDSDR software - I did try installing that, but it 
insists on using OmniRig v2, whereas my Logging program (Log4OM) and WSJT-X use 
OmniRig v1.1 and I'm not sure I can make the swap to Omnirig 2."

I use an RSP with OmniRig 1.20 and HDSDR 2.76a.  Support for OmniRig 1 was 
removed in HDSDR 2.80.  The combination makes a very useful panadapter and I 
find it unfortunate that the original OmniRig is no longer supported.

Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] SALE > Elecraft KX3-2M Transverter Board Option.

[Jerry Moore]

I still haven't taken the time to get the value of my setup.. maybe after the 
first of the year. 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of ken057...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2023 3:57 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] SALE > Elecraft KX3-2M Transverter Board Option.

Hello all,
I have the KX3-2M Transverter option board for sale. It's about four years old.
I don't need the board for 2m FM and putting up a large outdoor beam for SSB at 
this HOA location isn't possible. 
During testing, it receives and transmits fine on my attic vertical into local 
repeaters.
Removed it from the KX3 while following the manual and ESD procedures.
A hard copy of the installation/operating manual is included.
Photos available.
I think Elecraft is up to $300.00 for this board!
No returns or refunds for all the standard reasons.

$185.00 shipped to CONUS only.
Shipping prices are just out of site now!
PayPal, friends/family, Zelle, Postal Money order or a cleared personal check 
are all ok.
Thanks for looking,
Ken, W2GIW


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[Elecraft] Correction, pricing info for k3s/p3

[Jerry Moore]

Correction. K3S/P3

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>

From: Jerry Moore
Sent: Monday, December 4, 2023 6:54:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Where's the best place to get K4s pricing information ?

Ty

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
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[Elecraft] Where's the best place to get K4s pricing information ?

[Jerry Moore]

Ty

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android
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Re: [Elecraft] Power oscillation problem (KPA500+KAT500)

[jerry]

Is the internal autotuner of the TS590S on?

  - Jerry

On 2023-11-21 04:50, Andy Durbin wrote:

Thanks to those that replied with suggestions.

This morning I ran some additional testing.  I found I could induce
the oscillation at 70 W KPA500 output power.  With KPA500 switched to
STBY I could run 100 W from my TS-590S with no anomalies.  The only
change in the antenna system configuration is that KPA500 is in STBY
not OPER.

The time for onset of oscillation , and the frequency of oscillation,
both depend on the power level. The higher the power the quicker the
onset and the higher the frequency.  To me that suggests a thermal
problem rather than voltage induced breakdown.

The only ferrite in the 40 m antenna system is in the KPA500 LPF and
the KAT500 tuning inductors.  The KAT500 inductor configuration was
the same for 100 W STBY and 70 W OPER test.   Those two facts would,
if taken in isolation,  suggest a problem in the KPA500 40 m LPF.
However, the LPF seems happy at 500 W with the dummy load.

I'm finding it hard to find a failure mode that fits all the test data.

73,
Andy, k3wyc

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Re: [Elecraft] List guidelines, please review.

[Jerry Moore]

Right, I was just trying to find out how much my setup is worth to help decide 
if I wanted to part with it. 
*shrug*. 
If there's a better place suggest off list I guess. 
Tnx. 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of David Ferrington, M0XDF
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2023 11:28 AM
To: AB2E Darrell 
Cc: ElecraftList 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] List guidelines, please review.

Agreed
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)

> On 31 Oct 2023, at 15:05, AB2E Darrell  wrote:
> 
> I also agree with Dave and Wes.
> Keeping up with current resale values is useful to me.
> 73
> Darrell AB2E
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>  on behalf of Wes 
> 
> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2023 5:22 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] List guidelines, please review.
> 
> I'm with Dave on this one.  I see guys setting up complicated email filters to
> sort messages into different folders, etc,   I just look at the subject and,
> more often that not, hit the delete key.
> 
> Since I have a K3 in a box under the desk that I should be selling I'm 
> interested in what the market is too. Leave well enough alone.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
> On 10/27/2023 3:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Why do you think that for sale posts have little value to the list at large??
>> I very much appreciate knowing what is available since Elecraft no 
>> longer supports such a high percentage of their products, and I 
>> appreciate knowing what the going prices for those items are.  Why 
>> should I have to go to multiple places elsewhere with much lower 
>> membership to search for that information?
>> 
>> There a LOTS of posts made to the Elecraft reflector that don't 
>> interest me in the least.  A keypress to delete them takes but an 
>> instant and I can sort though an entire day's posts in a matter of seconds 
>> ... literally.
>> 
>> Dave  AB7E
>> 

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Re: [Elecraft] XV 144 trasnverter for sale

[jerry]

On 2023-10-26 20:29, Gwen Patton wrote:

If the guy wants to sell it for $600, and your think it's too high, 
just

move on. Haggling is for hamfests.


*** At the hamfest, I met a fellow with a nice little MFJ frequency 
counter.


How much? ( I was thinking maybe $40 )

Well, on Ebay, they go for $100.  But I'm only asking $99!  And you 
won't have to

   pay shipping or sales tax!

He followed me for a few steps as I left, trying to convince me.



As often happens, I thought of what to say afterwards:

If I'm on Ebay looking at an MFJ frequency counter, it's probably 
because I'm specifically
looking FOR an MFJ frequency counter.  In that case, the $100 is 
possibly reasonable.  At the flea
market OTOH, I'm not looking for a specific item - just for anything 
that hits my fancy.  It probably takes a lower price to "hit my fancy" 
than if I'm specifically looking.


       - Jerry, KF6VB
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[Elecraft] Thinking of selling my K3S/P3, how do I get hours of operation??

[Jerry Moore]

I'll get a list up of the options/serial number..etc, non-smoker, low hours/use,

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Randy via Elecraft 
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 7:38:21 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Randomly Changes Modes

Hi All
 My K3 has developed an issue.  It randomly switches to  USB from CW, 
especially when I am turning the main tuning knob but sometimes when I am 
parked on a freq. Any ideas as to what the solution is? 73 Randy
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[Elecraft] Flea Market Deal

[jerry]

Well,

   Somebody got a good deal at the Pacificon flea market this 
morning...a K3 with the upgraded synthesizer and also a P3 - for less 
than $1200.  I was really considering it...   But I have so many radios 
already, and where would I put it?  Actually need to thin the herd :).  
There was another vendor with a K3 ( but no P3 ) for $1300.


   - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The day I found out I was going to be an engineer

[jerry]

On 2023-09-15 17:31, Wayne Burdick wrote:

I was 8 years old.


*** I've been trying to interest my 9 year old in electronics & radio.  
Am leveraging his love for making things.  Which

mostly is alas focused on Legos.

   When the COVID hit, I immediately got on Amazon and ordered the 
biggest, most elaborate "snap circuits" kit.  It was sort
of a bust.  He did a few of them and lost interest.  The trouble with 
snap circuits is that the elaborate ones - the ones that
do interesting things - depend on ICs that they have packaged up.  Black 
boxes that hide all the fun.  Also, for some strange

reason, Snap Circuits doesn't use schematics in their workbooks.

   I like the old Radio Shack multi-project kits better, and I got him 
the last-biggest one that they made.  Actual

schematics.

   I had him build a Velleman kit that I had laying around.  He was 
scared of the soldering iron.  I said "just don't touch

the metal part" :).

    - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Band Data

[jerry]

On 2023-09-01 12:55, Michael Carter wrote:

Hi Jerry,

There is no simple access to band data in
the K2 unless you want to reverse engineer
the AUXBUS protocol.


*** Considering that it's probably a low-speed
async protocol, that might not be that hard.

  Depending on how

your homebrew amp selects its lowpass
filter options, you may be able to pick up
the relay control signals for the K2's bandpass
and lowpass filter banks and use those
to encode a band data word in the format
used by Yaesu.


*** Yeah, I was thinking of doing just that.  Little
green wires and a pin header.  Then a little board with
a microprocessor to convert the 1-low-per-band to the
needed 4-bit word.  Might be able to do it with a diode
matrix.

 There is no isolated connector

on the K2 Front Panel, Control, or RF boards
that makes available those relay control lines,
so you would have to tap the traces where
those control signals are exposed.

Perhaps you can comment more on the
homebrew amp design with regard to
lowpass filter selection?


*** Sure.  The amp uses a W6PQL RF deck and LPF.  It has a
four-inch touch screen and a Teensy 4.1 microprocessor card.  I
wrote the software.  It's my third recent solid state linear, and
I burned out my share of devices on the other two.  Didn't want
to burn out this one - it's a $230 chip soldered to a heat spreader,
and would be both expensive and a PITA to replace.  So there is no
bandswitch.  In addition, there is a protection card that turns off the
power to the RF deck for

* Excessive drive
* Excessive drain current
* Excessive power output
* Excessive antenna SWR
* Wrong LPF selected

   Even with that last, I prefer to have the linear set its band
from the exciter data.  Belt & suspenders...

   People have commented that I should find Elecraft's universal 
adapter.

My answer to that is - yeah it would be easy, but not much fun.  I have
plenty of radios

The band data is a four-bit word.  1 = +5V, 0 = 0V.
 - illegal.
0001 - 160M
0010 - 80M
...etc.
 - illegal

It works flawlessly with my FTDX10.  It also works with my T41-EP 
homebrew

transceiver.  The linear doesn't have true TTL
inputs:  its internal CPU is a 3.3V device, so there is a voltage 
divider at each

band data input.

I see that the aux bus cable - for PC connection - is documented.  Looks 
like pin 1
is the shell, pin 2 & 3 are the RXD and TXD, and pin 5 is the common.  
And the protocol
is async RS-232 4800 baud, 2 stop bits.  There is also power available ( 
I assume 12V )
max 50mA on pin 8.  I think an AtTiny84 would do it - but I'd need to 
also put in an

RS-232 converter chip to deal with that pesky negative voltage.

There's another pin called "AuxBus".  That's probably a more difficult 
nut to crack.


    - Jerry, KF6VB
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[Elecraft] K2 Band Data

[jerry]

Hello All,

   I'm interested in putting my K2 on the air with my homebrew LDMOS 
linear.   My amp doesn't have a bandswitch - it gets Yaesu band data.  
Follows the transceiver from band to band like a puppy.  I like it that 
way, because
it's always on the right band, and I don't fry the LDMOS.  The linear 
gives full output with about 10W of drive - so a perfect match for the 
base K2.


   Is there any convenient connector inside the radio with band data?  
Doesn't have to be the 4-bit binary that

the linear expects... I would make up something to convert it.

- Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] A dumb question about lightning

[jerry]

Interesting.  Suppose the service entrance is at one end of the house,
and the ham shack at the other end?  I don't think it's physically
possible to provide a low inductance path that's 60 feet long, is it?

   Would a solution be to DC-isolate the station from the grounded 
antenna?
Say with a wideband toroid 1:1 transformer?  Then ground the station 
through the

3rd pin of the AC outlet?

   Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, lighting is rare.  It used to be 
entirely
unheard of - we just don't get the kind of convective weather that 
produces it. We're more about coastal stratus.  But with climate change, 
that might be changing.  There was quite a display once last year.


- Jerry, KF6VB


On 2023-07-31 13:20, Fred Jensen wrote:

Be very careful of advice regarding lightning protection.  There are
some very good sources, starting with the NEC and including material
from ARRL.  Some is somewhat non-intuitive.  For example, the NEC
requires that any additional "earth electrodes" [aka ground rods] be
bonded to the service entrance earth electrode with a low inductance
path. There's been quite an array of advice circulating here recently,
much of it wrong, some dangerous.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Geoffrey Feldman wrote on 7/28/2023 5:02 PM:
  First thing and foremost - switches are mostly not relevant to 
protection.
Energy that can travel 1000' through the sky is likely to continue 
across
most switches.   So, the utmost of safety is what you indicated you 
did -
disconnect.  By disconnect, I mean either disconnect outside the 
building,
leaving the feed on the ground or leave the feed connected to a copper 
plate
that is in turn connected to an 8' deep ground stake.  On the inside 
of the
house, disconnect the lines from that plate and leave them on the 
floor.
Another such stake near the feed point of the antenna is also a great 
idea.
If it's possible to lower the antenna when not in use, that's a great 
idea.

This should be the default when not in use.

  You have the belief that no grounding system is perfectly effective 
(for all
imaginable strikes) - maybe, but a good grounding system is far better 
than

foolishness.   A grounding system, or an antenna is not a "lightning
magnet". If it doesn't strike it won't. If it does it will and the 
grounding
system assures the energy will be less likely to cause harm. Some 
places and
circumstances are more or less likely but everywhere is possible.   If 
that

possibility happens, a good grounding system is why it is likely to be
survived.

  A key thing to understand is that when Lightning strikes in nature, 
all the
energy travels along the surface of the ground.  It can do this for 
many
feet and be lethal doing it.  Anything that stands along the radius 
from the
point of the strike (one part closer and the other further) is in 
danger.
Four legged animals, having more distant contact points, more 
dangerous.

The purpose of a ground stake (8' straight down) is to channel the
electricity deep, rather than along the surface.

  Don't use emotional theories.  Read the lightning mitigation and 
grounding
books offered by the ARRL. Use UL approved conductors and stakes.  Do 
not

use your homes electrical service ground stake. Keep that separate.

  All the above is a "cliffs notes" and so is anything else posted 
here. Read

the books.  Ask senior members of a local club,  to review your plan.

  W1GCF Geoff


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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Operation

[jerry]

Many years ago, my contribution to a club Field Day effort was a set of 
single band low pass filters.
Each one in a minibox with an SO-239 at each end. They seemed to help.  
Not for running CW & SSB

on the same band, though.

    - Jerry, KF6VB


 -

On 2023-07-01 08:13, Wes wrote:

Retire that radio, operator or both.


On 7/1/2023 7:33 AM, George Thornton wrote:
Our group was a 6A.  The signal was from the 20 meter voice station in 
our group.  This station in the picture was GOTA operating under a 
separate call sign.


The 20 meter voice station showed up large on our waterfall, but we 
kept elsewhere on the band and no problems.


There was another station of ours operating CW on 20 meters, separated 
by about 400 ft. in elevation.  We had no problems with them.


Interestingly, at one point the 20 meter station chair contacted me 
and said he was being desensed by us and the 20 meter CW station.  I 
think they were using an Icom rig.


The conclusion, the K4 is just as well protected from adjacent station 
interference as the K3. Elecraft is the rig of choice in a 
multi-station operation.






-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Wes

Sent: Saturday, July 1, 2023 6:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Operation

How about publicly shaming the guy whose signal is occupying the band 
in this photo?  Or is that receiver overload?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wJrLrryYkPrh7t1C8

Wes  N7WS

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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Operation

[jerry]

On 2023-06-26 17:32, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/26/2023 4:08 PM, Wes wrote:
You simply have to be nice to the inexperience operators and coach 
them along.


It's far more than that -- far too many stations run high power.


*** Didn't they make a rule this year that everybody's limited to 100W?

   - Jerry, KF6VB


 We

added an SSB station one year from a 5,000 ft peak; it was a complete
exercise in frustration. CW is FAR more effective under crowded band
conditions.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Pro 7 headset with KX3 - RF feedback?

[jerry]

On 2023-05-18 17:20, Drew Arnett wrote:



Love the big bulky heavy over the ear headphones.  :-)


*** I just scored a pair of these at the local ham swap...
for $10.  Yes, the Heil Pro7.  Works FB on receive. Haven't tried them 
on transmit yet;

waiting on connectors to make up a patchcord.

- Jerry, KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] TL922

[jerry]

On 2023-03-29 15:05, Robin wrote:


I THINK the 100 volts is minus


The relay keying voltage is generally negative on tube linears.  It does
double duty - runs the relays, and biases the tubes off during receive.

  - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] Vertical antennas Was: KX3 and KPA1500 compatibility

[jerry]

I too have a 6BTV.  It used to have 50 radials.  They were a pain in the 
whatchum, always getting caught by the weed whacker.  But

they made a big difference in the performance of the antenna.

Now, it has one "radial".  Actually an Ufer ground, consisting of a 
concrete slab, 70 feet long by 10 feet wide, with 80 feet
of 8AWG copper wire buried in it.  The slab is actually a solar 
collection field for our swimming pool.   I left a space in the middle 
for the antenna.  I was going to do radials, but had a sudden thought - 
I'd be a fool if I didn't bury some wire in that concrete.  So I ran to 
the local hardware store, grabbed a roll of 8AWG off their rack, and 
strung it around the site, hooking it up to the rebars.  Then they came 
and poured the concrete.


  The Ufer ground seems to perform about as well as the radials did.  If 
it didn't, I would have run radials


      - Jerry, KF6VB

\
On 2023-03-06 14:59, Alan Bloom wrote:

On 3/6/23 15:08, Jim Brown wrote:
Most (but not all) verticals need radials to transmit a decent signal. 
A vertical that needs radials is a lousy TX antenna without them.


Right.

I use a 6BTV, which is a 6-band trap vertical about 24 ft tall. With a
barefoot K4 at 100W I get out quite well.  Obviously I can't compete
with the "big guns" running kilowatt amplifiers and beams at 120 feet,
but I do work lots of DX.  I can crack most pileups with enough
patience.

The trick is that the antenna has 40 radials, each one 32 ft long
buried an inch or two in the sand at my desert location.

The old joke that a vertical is an antenna that radiates equally
poorly in all directions is only true if you have a poor radial
system.

Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-KX] Peter Martinez And The CW-To-PSK31 Feature

[jerry]

On 2023-02-05 11:01, a...@elecraft.com wrote:
Some would argue there's no activity in ham radio, or perhaps life 
itself,
more rewarding than making RTTY contest QSOs using a 1 pound radio 
with a

whip and an attached keyer paddle


You mean I no longer need my 75-pound Model 15 Teletype machine to
send/receive RTTY?


*** I had one of those!  It didn't have a case.  Pretty loud... :).
Long live Baudot!

  - Jerry, KF6VB
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[Elecraft] Elecraft (Parts and info)

[Jerry Uhte via Elecraft]

Just a note to commend the staff at Elecraft (Rob) who helped me obtain some 
parts for my K2 and provide info on getting help in the repair from a tech 
providing service work !



   Thanks , 

    Jerry Uhte   K9UT
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[Elecraft] K9UT testing

[Jerry Uhte via Elecraft]

Testing 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K4][K3][K2] FS: David Clark H10-20 Aviation Headset

[jerry]

Not to mention that pilots call them David "Clamp" Clarks.  Aviation
headsets in general are not the epitome of comfort.

  Small airplanes are like sitting in a steel garbage can
while people pound on it with hammers.

    - Jerry, KF6VB

On 2022-12-17 12:33, Gil Drynan wrote:

I had a problem with a David Clark as it emphases certian frequencies.
When I was moderating a net on the intertie it would disconnect the 
link

to Scapouse (sp). Had to use a different headset.

GIL

W7Gil



                   "W3DVX Rescues Legacy Elecrafts"
Hello,

For Sale:  David Clark H10-20 Aviation Headset

It’s the perfect headset for the ham who uses headphones with a mic 
boom

attached.

Perfect for use in noisy environments—the cockpit of a 172 is 
LOUD—and

when you put these on, all is quiet. The microphone ignores background
sound, and you speak close to the mic. It’s an M-7A electret mic, 
which
does need bias; the K2 needs a 5.6K resistor (probably already there 
if

you use Elecraft MH2, 4 etc.) Tested with my K4 with bias turned on.

Photos and more info: Christmas sales at
https://wilcoxengineering.com/2020/06/09/selling-extra-equipment/

Happy Holidays,

Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40, K4D-384, SKCC 22955)
570-916-9590 (cell, text)
https://WilcoxEngineering.com

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 v power source for Elecraft Transceivers

[jerry]

On 2022-12-06 10:54, Edward Mccann wrote:



Clearly case of stimulation of overactive ham hormone resisting
disposal of anything looking potentially useful.

*** That happened to me!   I was working at a railroad electronics shop. 
It

was around 1985.

One day, the boss decided to clean house.  Among the many goodies I 
rescued

from the dumpster were

* 4 Large 48VCT power transformers
* A berry box of TO-3 PNP Darlington transistors
* A giant heat sink, drilled for TO-3 transistors

...So I built a power supply.  I bolted 5 of those Darlingtons to the 
monster
heatsink, put them in parallel with emitter resistors, in the negative 
leg of
the output of my bridge rectifier, which was bolted to a thick aluminum 
bottom
plate.  This allowed me to ground the collectors of the transistors and 
dispense
with insulating washers.  Using the input taps of the power transformer, 
I was able

to adjust it for just the right head room.

  That supply did 20A with no fuss whatsoever.  I think it was actually 
capable

of 40A.

  This year, I dug it out of the junk, powered it up - and it still 
works!  Not

only that, it was 12.000V.

  Another use I found for this stuff - the flea market had yielded up a 
mint condition
Galaxy V transceiver.  But it had no power supply.  I took apart one of 
those big 48V

power transformers and rewound it, to make a supply for the V.

 - Jerry, KF6VB







Thanks all!

Ed McCann
AG6CX

On Dec 6, 2022, at 10:47 AM, Edward Mccann  
wrote:


Tnx Jim.
Label claims  to be 12DC out, but clearly needs to be measured as 
investigation proceeds!

Minimal specs, but autopsy underway.

Ed McCann
AG6CX



On Dec 6, 2022, at 10:29 AM, Jim Brown  
wrote:


On 12/6/2022 10:16 AM, Edward Mccann wrote:
Slightly off topic, I will admit, but in reworking garden walkway 
low-voltage (12 v DC) I made surplus a 200 VA transformer.


Is what you have a transformer (two windings on ferrous core, 
providing low voltage AC) or a power supply (transformer plus 
circuitry to provide DC output?


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K3/K3s component level repair parts and components

[Jerry Moore]

Are the discrete components available for the boards and does Elecraft have 
(and will they share it) a ranked list of most failed to least failed they can 
provide to us? 

I'm just thinking that over time we, as hams, may need to do some of the 
repairs ourselves and it might be a good idea for us to have some small stock 
of components (even if we send the unit in for repair, we can help stock parts 
so Elecraft doesn't have to keep inventory). 

Just a question/idea. 
Thanks in advance. 
.. AE4PB

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[Elecraft] K3/K3s component level repair parts and components

[Jerry Moore]

Are the discrete components available for the boards and does Elecraft have 
(and will they share it) a ranked list of most failed to least failed they can 
provide to us? 

I'm just thinking that over time we, as hams, may need to do some of the 
repairs ourselves and it might be a good idea for us to have some small stock 
of components (even if we send the unit in for repair, we can help stock parts 
so Elecraft doesn't have to keep inventory). 

Just a question/idea. 
Thanks in advance. 
.. AE4PB
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fluorescent RFI solved

[jerry]

There are also Edison-based LED bulbs specifically made to be RF-quiet
for garage door openers.

 - Jerry, KF6VB

On 2022-11-26 14:05, Al Lorona wrote:

and now I
can't even tell that the lights are on... there's no RF noise!

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Re: [Elecraft] Running high power

[Jerry Moore]

I'm 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave (NK7Z)
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2022 9:16 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Running high power

Al,

Are you by chance running an end fed antenna?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 11/23/22 05:59, Wes wrote:
> I run a KPA500 all of the time; essentially, I run a 500W transceiver.   
> I have never had an issue as you describe.  The only chokes in the 
> shack are the ones molded onto the various computer cables that come with 
> them.
> 
> Outside, I use a homebrew W2DU type balun (sorry Jim) at the feedpoint 
> of my 40-80M inverted-vee and a commercial sleeve balun on my little 
> triband beam. BTW, both of these antennas are used off-resonance, 
> tuned with a KPA500 in the shack for WARC bands. According to 
> conventional wisdom, I do everything wrong. Grounding and bonding is a 
> combination of single-point and daisy-chain.  I don't have pounds of 
> ferrite on every wire, I use a switch mode power supply for all of the 
> low voltage stuff and a Rigrunner distribution box.  And the whole 
> station runs on a 120V 20A circuit.
> 
> I suspect that you have a rectifying joint some place.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
> On 11/22/2022 3:36 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
>> I'm really curious to ask those on this list who run high power:
>>
>> Do you find that you get into all kinds of devices around the house?
>>
>> I ran the KPA-500 in an extended manner for really the first time 
>> during the Phone SS and immediately:
>>
>> 1/ interfered with FM broadcast radio.
>>
>> 2/ caused the internet to drop out every time I keyed up on the lower 
>> bands.
>>
>> Am I the only one? Those of you who run high power all the time... 
>> how do you deal with these annoyances?
>>
>> Al  W6LX/4
>> ___
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Running high power

[Jerry Moore]

I'm constantly amazed at the lengths we'll go as hams to overcome the poor 
engineering and manufacture of consumer products.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2022 5:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Running high power

On 11/22/2022 2:36 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
> 1/ interfered with FM broadcast radio.
> 
> 2/ caused the internet to drop out every time I keyed up on the lower bands.
> 
> Am I the only one? Those of you who run high power all the time... how do you 
> deal with these annoyances?

Both are caused by lousy design of the equipment. Band-aids are SERIOUS common 
mode chokes on every wire connected to the victim. Follow guidelines for HF 
transmitting chokes for the bands involved, winding each individual cable 
through a #31 2.4-in i.d. toroid. Those wires are receiving antennas coupling 
RF into that badly designed stuff, and chokes kill RF current on them.

http://k9yc.com/2018Cookbook.pdf

3/4-in and 1-in i.d. #31 clamp-ons can work with 4-5 turns, but they MUST be 
wound in sequence around the core. See the photo on page 10 in 
http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf

As Vic has noted, use a serious choke at the feedpoint of every antenna, use 
only coax-fed antennas, matched to the feedline resonant on the bands where 
they are used, using that same Cookbook as a guide. Try to locate antennas as 
far as practical from victim equipment. An end-fed antenna, vertical or 
otherwise, ending in the shack is a recipe for RFI to equipment. ALWAYS provide 
a serious counterpoise for any end-fed antenna. If you don't, that antenna will 
use everything in your home as a counterpoise, causing RFI.

In summary, take antennas seriously, -- their design, their location, chokes at 
the feedpoint, bonding in the shack. Avoiding the problems you describe is 
nothing more or less good engineering practice.

Also, some cable/DSL modems are notorious for RFI susceptibility. W8JI solved a 
problem by complaining to the vendor, who gave him a replacement. This usually 
requires taking the complaint up one or more levels.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] QRP and Contesting

[Jerry Moore]

And that is why a lot of hams are afraid of getting one the air with cw. 
Elitist ops.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Jim Brown 
Sent: Tuesday, November 8, 2022 4:49:45 PM
To: Reflector Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] QRP and Contesting

I made more than 1,000 QSOs in Sweepstakes this weekend, and the most
frustrating, by far, were from a couple of dozen QRPers who 1) never
heard of dupe checking; and 2) sent by hand with pretty lousy fists.
Late Sunday evening, while calling CQ on another band, I waited a couple
of  minutes for a VA2 station to get a fill on the serial number from a
QRPer who couldn't send it correctly, probably because he hadn't worked
enough CW to have a decent fist. The problem was NOT signal strength. I
had the same problem with half of the casual QRPers I worked.

Both of these problems are easily solved by using a contest logging
program, both to log and to send CW. This is not a slam on QRP operation
-- I've worked a lot of contests QRP, and one of my best buddies, W6JTI,
WINS or places in the top two or three in the many contests he enters
QRP. Frank made 554 QSOs in SS last weekend, and made the sweep of all
84 sections (NOT easy with HIGH power).

Why does this matter? Because MANY contesters take it seriously, and
most can finish a Sweepstakes QSO in 30-40 seconds. Most of us, me
included, are happy to work and encourage new contesters, but it's very
frustrating when someone can't send CW due to lack of practice, and
calls to work us a second or even a third time because he's too lazy to
check of dupes, taking well over a minute to finish a QSO.

73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Noise Reduction

[Jerry Moore]

There's an extensive procedure in the manual that I bought separately from the 
rig. My stuff is in storage,  however, the process for noise reduction worked 
solid for me. The k3s book from Fred Cady https://elecraft.com/collections/books

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Richard 
Sent: Sunday, November 6, 2022 8:33:08 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3S Noise Reduction

Is there ANY way to make the NR feature work worth a damn? In general, when I 
turn it on, the audio level drops to almost nothing, and none of the Adjustment 
setting do much of anything.

My other two radios, an old Icom and a new Icom, both have very effective NR 
features.

Is this a design heartbreak, or is my radio looking at ANOTHER trip to the 
factory?

Firmware # UC 05.67

Cheers.

Richard Kunc
W4KBX
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft 80M SSB Net Announcement and NO time change

[jerry]

So at what Zulu time is the Net?

   - Jerry, KF6VB

On 2022-11-06 10:43, Dave New wrote:

A reminder that the Elecraft 80M SSB net meets weekly on Sunday
evening, 9pm ET, on 3775 kHz (Advanced class portion of the band).

There is NO time change for this net, as there are many local nets on
80M that do not change time when we go to/from daylight saving time,
so we 'go with the flow' and keep the same time to avoid conflicts
with other nets that share the same frequency before/after our net.

Hope to see you on 80M SSB this evening.

73,

-- Dave, N8SBE



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 that has gone deaf

[Jerry Moore]

>> I do notice that if I touch some areas on the bottom board the signal 
>> does increase.
>>
Cold solder joint perhaps? 
If you tap the board does the signal follow the taps? E.G. it increases in 
level briefly then returns to it's previous level?
If you warm the board slightly with a hair dryer does it all of a sudden just 
start working? 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jan Erik Holm via Elecraft
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2022 3:32 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 that has gone deaf

I have a K3 that has got just a little bit deaf.
It´s like this, on 28 MHz it´s about 17 dB down, on 24 MHz 13 dB, on 21 MHz 7 
dB. 14 MHz and down just about nothing.
Guess it still can be D25. I will swap it with my second K3 and start to repair 
it tomorrow.

If someone has had anything similar it would be nice to know.

73 Jim SM2EKM
---
Den 2022-10-13 kl. 01:49, skrev David Hachadorian:
> Hi George,
> 
> Maybe the second paragraph from Elecraft here will help:
> https://marc.info/?l=elecraft=145323127930319=2
> 
> 73
> 
> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
> Yuma, AZ
> 
> On 10/12/2022 9:54 AM, George Fremin III wrote:
>> I have a K3 that has gone deaf.  It can bearly hear my XG1 at 50 uV 
>> plugged into either the RX or ANT-1 ports.
>>
>> It does not have an antenna tuner.
>>
>> I have removed KXV3 option and put jummpers in W1 and W2.
>>
>> It remains deaf.
>>
>> >From doing some reading I see that D25 could be the issue.
>> Is there a way for me to prove that or do I just need to replace D25 
>> to find out?
>>
>> I do notice that if I touch some areas on the bottom board the signal 
>> does increase.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Amplifiers are now shipping from Stock

[jerry]

On 2022-10-07 15:41, Gary Memory wrote:
 I ordered parts from Mouser for my own needs over a year ago.  The

last note I received has marked it for delivery in 2024.


*** I never order anything that's not "in stock".  If Mouser doesn't 
have it, I look

at digikey etc - if those run dry, I find a different part.

       - Jerry, KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S

[Jerry Moore]

? This looked like it was directly to me?
I'm not planning to sell my K3/P3 anytime soon, 
Thanks for the interest. 
Jerry
AE4PB

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave (NK7Z)
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2022 3:34 PM
To: Dave Kelley via Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3S

Hi,
If you do decide to sell your K3S, I am interested...
--
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources 
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Re: [Elecraft] A plug for one of Elecraft's lesser-known kits

[jerry]

On 2022-09-11 05:39, John Harper wrote:

Or, better yet, just turn the transmitter down
to a 10-watt (or less) output if using a 30dB coupler.


Better to use an attenuator.  Too easy to forget - and Poof!  Also, it's 
better to
test a transmitter at full power.  That's where you get distortion.  And 
transmitters

set down low are known to give off full power spikes.

- Jerry, KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and its "TUNE" selection. (With mag loop)

[jerry]

On 2022-08-24 16:19, Fred Jensen wrote:

Tuning on most mag loops is very touchy, and more so on lower
frequencies, because of the extremely high Q.  My Alexloop has a
reduction gearbox on the capacitor,


*** What kind of motor does it have?  I've been planning to use a
stepper, controlled by a microcontroller.  Use frequency data from
the radio ( or at least band data ) to get it into the ballpark, and
then zero in onto resonance.

  It's not going to be a portable system.  The size of the capacitor 
alone
guarantees that.  I'm going to either mount it on a mast, or on top of a 
shed.


   - Jerry, KF6VB




 and I wish it had 3 times the

reduction it has.  I doubt you could get close enough with a
motor-driven cap to a preset position. And, exact resonance matters.
However, it's pretty easy these days to use a V-I sensor and a phase
detector to determine where resonance exactly is, and have a little
microcontroller drive the cap to zero phase difference. We used to do
it with HF mobiles.  Still may be done.

Most of the cost in transmitting loops >QRP is in the vacuum variable
capacitor, the construction to minimize I-squared R losses, and to
withstand the extremely high voltages which, at 100+ watts can range
well above 100 amps circulating current and multi-KV potentials.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Geoffrey Feldman wrote on 8/24/2022 12:11 PM:
Magloops with effective remote tuning are very pricey but those are 
not (as far as I know) automatic tuning, just remote)  With a tiny bit 
of practice, it’s not hard to do manually.  I give it almost no 
thought.   To simply have a mag loop go to the perfect spot of 
resonance in response to instructions from the radio would be 
difficult if not impractical.


  The key thing here is that it’s not a problem (for low power) to 
have the mag loop close to you nor is it hard to adjust it (as I 
described) to be perfectly resonant to the radio.


  However, Julia is right.  You can have the KX3 report its frequency 
(and everything else) through the ACC1 port.  Similarly the KX3 can be 
controlled by this magic box (to transmit a bit)   Getting a mag loop 
with its very high Q to perfectly tune to that frequency would be 
interesting.  When you see how tiny the changes to the Variable Cap 
are – you might perceive the problem.   Are there effective 
auto-tuning magloops that work as perfectly as hand tuning for low 
power levels?  I’d like to know.


  I also think that complexity can get in the way of portability. The 
beauty of the mag loop I have (alex loop) is that it’s light weight, 
quick to set up and take down.  Adding complexity would change all 
that.  At that point, I would use the kxpa100 with its tuner. 
(possibly even cheaper)


  W1GCF

Geoff

  From: Julia Tuttle [mailto:ju...@juliatuttle.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2022 12:53 PM
To: jerry
Cc: Geoffrey Feldman; Elecraft; JEROME SODUS
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and its "TUNE" selection. (With mag loop)

  Hi Jerry,

  That's absolutely possible over the serial port (ACC1)! The 
Programmer's Reference has the details:


  https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/K3S  
<https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/K3S%20Pgmrs%20Ref,%20G5.pdf> 
 %20Pgmrs%20Ref,%20G5.pdf


  73,

  Julie

  On Wed, Aug 24, 2022, 12:49 jerry  wrote:

I'm starting work on a magloop project.  I wonder how hard it would be
to
have a transceiver tell the magloop what frequency it's tuned to?  
That

could
operationally be simpler than having to hit it with low-power RF so it
can tune
itself...

 - Jerry, KF6VB



On 2022-08-23 14:28, Geoffrey Feldman wrote:

If your antenna is a magloop - DO NOT USE the tune button. In fact,
clear
the tuner memory for your band per instructions.   The tuner feature
(assuming you have the option) is great with other antennas, 
especially
random wire but it doesn't go well with mag loops.  The xmit button 
is

simply "PTT".



For any mag loop, choose a frequency you wish to start work, 
somewhere

in
the middle of the band.  Mag Loops are high Q antennas, that is they
are
effective in a very narrow range of frequencies to which they are
adjusted
with the tuning box.  This fact should inform your thoughts on
effective
use.

Turn the tuning dial (ON THE MAG LOOP) until you hear the maximum
amount of
noise (or blessed with a real signal).   The antenna and the radio 
are

now
tuned.

Turn the KX3 tuning knob SLOWLY until you hear some kind of 
interesting

signal.  (PX3 is great for this too).

Tweak the tuning knob on the mag loop to get the strongest signal for
your
exact frequency. (just a tweak).   This is important even if you hear
the
signal, to get the most efficient use of transmitter.

If while seeking a station you hear a lot less static, adjust the mag
loop
as above.



IF seeking up and down the band, just rinse and repeat as above until
you
get a station

Re: [Elecraft] Lighting

[jerry]

On 2022-08-24 14:23, David Gilbert wrote:

Several years ago before my house was fully completed, I had my coax
lines disconnected but just lying on the concrete floor of the room I
had my ham gear in.  I usually had those lines terminated in a short,
but one day as a storm was approaching (it was still at least five
miles away) I noticed that the line from the 80m dipole didn't have
the shorted PL-259 on it.  I bent down with one hand on the concrete
floor and reached for the insulated casing on the coax with the other
hand.  My free hand swept by the end of the coax, though, and I drew a
very bright, very thick, and very blue 2 inch long arc to my hand ...
which of course traveled through my body to the other hand that was on
the floor.  My biceps were sore for three days afterward.


*** Ouch.  I actually have a high-ohms resistor that I plan to put at 
the

base of my vertical, just to drain off static.

   Once upon a time, I was working on a homebrew linear with 4 811A's.  
It
was oscillating and making noise during receive.  I was spudging at the 
plate
wires trying to get it to quiet down whenZAP!  I swear I didn't 
touch anything,
it reached out and touched ME.  Knocked me across the room, paralyzed 
both my arms.


   One of the most endearing things about my solid state linear projects 
is that there's nothing in there that will kill me.  Just 53V.


 - Jerry, KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] Subject: Re: [K3] KIO3 failure mode

[jerry]

On 2022-08-24 12:27, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:


I worked with a guy at Honeywell who was trained in atmospheric
discharges in his graduate work at MIT.


*** And I once worked for a little company that made
railroad equipment.  Our devices sat by the railroad tracks and 
monitored passing trains.  Life and property were at stake.  And 
apparently, steel railroad tracks in the middle of nowhere get a LOT of 
lightning strikes.   Our equipment
was designed to survive all near strikes, and to break in an 
easily-fixed manner in case of a direct strike.


  This was many many years ago, but I remember that each digital I/O 
input was a comparator.  And the part that went to the outside world had 
a special surge supressor zener, a series high wattage resistor, and 
 I forget what else.


  In general, that gadget was the highest quality thing I ever worked on 
- both in hardware and in software - and everything I've worked on since 
has been crap in comparison.


   - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and its "TUNE" selection. (With mag loop)

[jerry]

I'm starting work on a magloop project.  I wonder how hard it would be 
to
have a transceiver tell the magloop what frequency it's tuned to?  That 
could
operationally be simpler than having to hit it with low-power RF so it 
can tune

itself...

   - Jerry, KF6VB



On 2022-08-23 14:28, Geoffrey Feldman wrote:
If your antenna is a magloop - DO NOT USE the tune button. In fact, 
clear

the tuner memory for your band per instructions.   The tuner feature
(assuming you have the option) is great with other antennas, especially
random wire but it doesn't go well with mag loops.  The xmit button is
simply "PTT".



For any mag loop, choose a frequency you wish to start work, somewhere 
in
the middle of the band.  Mag Loops are high Q antennas, that is they 
are
effective in a very narrow range of frequencies to which they are 
adjusted
with the tuning box.  This fact should inform your thoughts on 
effective

use.

Turn the tuning dial (ON THE MAG LOOP) until you hear the maximum 
amount of
noise (or blessed with a real signal).   The antenna and the radio are 
now

tuned.

Turn the KX3 tuning knob SLOWLY until you hear some kind of interesting
signal.  (PX3 is great for this too).

Tweak the tuning knob on the mag loop to get the strongest signal for 
your
exact frequency. (just a tweak).   This is important even if you hear 
the

signal, to get the most efficient use of transmitter.

If while seeking a station you hear a lot less static, adjust the mag 
loop

as above.



IF seeking up and down the band, just rinse and repeat as above until 
you

get a station to work.



Once the mag loop is tuned to the band, you won't have to adjust it 
much to
tune it for the particular part of the band you are on. Gentle tweaks 
is the
way.  Notice too, mag loops are very directional. Consult the 
manufacturing
manual for where it's sensitive and turn it along a great circle to 
where
you want to go.  (In Boston, where I live, Europe is north east by 
great

circle.



I note there is something about tuning the radio in some mag loop
instructions.  I find this not necessary with the KX3.  What I describe 
here

is what I do and it works well.



I have contacted Europe USB with a KX3 at 15 watts and a mag loop.  The
antenna was on the top floor of my wood frame town house for this, not 
even
outdoors.  If you think about what I wrote, you want the antenna in 
arm's
length while working the radio.  Don't worry about your body affecting 
the

near field. Mag Loops are not like that.



-73-

W1GCF

Geoff

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 power supply (remote)

[jerry]

On 2022-08-14 08:43, Dick Dievendorff wrote:

The KPA1500 power supply container houses several power supplies. Only
a small one is on all the time. It can run a microcontroller and
switch the larger supplies, but not much else.


*** And with good reason.  It's hard to switch say 65Amps at 50V ( I 
don't know
the exact voltage of the PA, but 50 - 53V is common ).  And PA's are 
very sensitive to voltage

drop.  The less, the better.

   I have a very quiet homebrew amp with a remote mounted power supply.  
The supply lives
in a box under the bed.  Right now I duck under the bed to turn it on & 
off.  I have a high power
12V relay on the bench.  I plan to put that relay at the AC line input 
and use a separate 12V power
supply to power it.  A couple of wires to the RF deck going to a little 
tiny toggle switch on
the front panel.  Two other small wires will also go to the power supply 
to talk to it via CAN bus,
which can monitor output current and two power supply temperatures.  I 
*could* extend the CAN bus
to a processor to control the power input relay, but I don't want to 
work that hard :).


     - Jerry, KF6VB





The 50V and 12v supplies are switched completely off when the amp is
“off”. The fans are associated with the 50v supply.

It’s like a TV set that can be operated by a remote control. Or a wall
power switch that can be turned on by a microcontroller.

73 de Dick, K6KR


On Aug 14, 2022, at 08:17, Rick Tavan  wrote:

I leave my KPA1500 PS on continuously, whether I'm local or remote. 
No

observed ill effects. When the amp is off, the PS is silent. I haven't
measured its current drain in that condition but I expect it is 
minimal. I
have a remote relay box that I could use to key a larger relay in the 
230V

AC supply line but I don't see any need to do that.

73,

/Rick N6XI

On Sun, Aug 14, 2022 at 6:30 AM Jorge Diez - CX6VM 


wrote:

Hello!

when you use the KPA1500 remotely, the power is always on. With which 
it

could spend several years on continuously. Could this be harmful to
the power supply?

Is it thought and designed to withstand this?

Is there a way to turn the power on and off remotely?

thanks!

--
73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W
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--
--

Rick Tavan
Truckee and Saratoga, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] Fair-Rite 4" Toroids

[jerry]

Will the 2.4 inchers handle legal limit?

  - Jerry KF6VB

On 2022-07-27 13:00, Jim Brown wrote:

On 7/27/2022 12:24 PM, Howard Hoyt via Elecraft wrote:
We have been answering queries about the large 4" OD Fair-Rite 
2631814002 toroids <https://proaudioeng.com/fair-rite-4″-toroid-core/> 
which have been out of stock for a while but we now have good stock.


It should be noted that my extensive work showed the effectiveness of
these oversized cores to be limited to 20M and below, and the
standard-size (and much less expensive) 2.4-in o.d. cores to be the
superior choice above 80M. W6GJB and I have used them only on 160M.

http://k9yc.com/2018Cookbook.pdf

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Oh Crap

[jerry]

On 2022-07-18 07:14, Andy Durbin wrote:


There have been discussions of broken plug tips in Kenwood and
Elecraft group.  There seem to be two solutions.  Either change the
complete jack assembly or improvise a method to extract the tip the
way it went in.


*** I happened on a good fix for a coaxial power connector.  It was one 
of those
fancy plastic overmolded ones, and the wire had broken where it entered 
the overmold.  I figured it was toast, and I would have to find another 
one.  Coaxial power connectors are a pain because there are so many 
different ones that all look the same.


   On a whim, I tried to cut off the overmold.  The plastic rubber was 
just too tough.
Then - an idea.  I chopped off the wire, and chucked the connector into 
my little lathe.  The lathe cut off that overmold in mere seconds, 
exposing the actual connector with its pair of solder joints.  A bit of 
solder and shrink tubing later, and I had a fully functioning connector!


 - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] problem with K2, KAT100 and K2100PA combo

[jerry]

I had a PowerPole fail on me once.  Dirt or corrosion on the one flat 
contact.
Once was enough.  Back in the day, I had standardized on double banana 
plugs.  In 50 years of ham radio, I NEVER had one fail on me in any way. 
 Only trouble with the double bananas is they're not keyed for polarity. 
 I was always *very* careful about that.


  As a electronic bench tech back in the 70's, I had a lot of experience 
with test sets and connectors enduring thousands of cycles.  The very 
best - most reliable - connectors all had a round pin in a round hole.  
All hail Augat machine sockets!


  The AMASS connectors feature a round pin that plugs into a round hole. 
 It has just the right spring tension.  They are polarized - you can't 
plug them in backwards.  They are popular with the RC drone crowd, but 
are also making it into other equipment.


   I am using AMASS XT90 connectors on my kilowatt LDMOS linear project.

 - Jerry, KF6VB



On 2022-07-12 18:06, Andrew Moore wrote:

I have not found them to be reliable


Just curious - can you elaborate and quantify? Bad solder joints?


AMASS connectors are far superior


Superior for what?

*** Superior for always connecting.




banana plugs are better


Better for what?


*** Same better.


Thanks & 73,
-Andrew NV1B




On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 7:46 PM jerry  wrote:


On 2022-07-12 15:09, brianpepperdine brianpepperdine wrote:
> HI. Well this is weird
> It appears that the Anderson power power cable failed

*** No surprise there.  I personally do NOT like Anderson PowerPoles; 
I

don't understand what people see in them.  One flat contact that
slip-connects to
another flat contact.  I have not found them to be reliable.

AMASS connectors are far superior.  These have a round pin that 
goes

in a round hole.  Heck, even banana plugs are better.

      - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] problem with K2, KAT100 and K2100PA combo

[jerry]

On 2022-07-12 15:09, brianpepperdine brianpepperdine wrote:

HI. Well this is weird
It appears that the Anderson power power cable failed


*** No surprise there.  I personally do NOT like Anderson PowerPoles; I 
don't understand what people see in them.  One flat contact that 
slip-connects to

another flat contact.  I have not found them to be reliable.

   AMASS connectors are far superior.  These have a round pin that goes 
in a round hole.  Heck, even banana plugs are better.


 - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500/PS SPACING

[jerry]

On 2022-07-02 15:35, Jim Brown wrote:


I bought my first amp in 2004.


*** And I built my first amp in 1971.  It was a Command set transmitter
chassis stuffed with 4 6LQ6's.  The roller coil served as the inductor 
in
the output Pi network.  I remember 15 meters was something like an 8th 
of a turn.


  My mom gave me 25 cents a day to eat lunch in the school cafeteria.  
In 3 years
of high school, I never once set foot in that cafeteria - in fact, I 
never even

learned where it was.  I saved those quarters for electronic parts.

   - Jerry, KF6VB
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[Elecraft] HW-16

[jerry]

On 2022-07-02 15:49, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

It is a Heathkit transceiver - you can own one if you wish:)


I remember the tuning knob had an unpleasant rubbery feel.  Didn't 
matter - at

that time, I could not afford such high class equipment.

  - Jerry, KF6VB




John KK9A


Jim Brown K9YC wrote:

Eric,

I don't know what an HW-16 is. The PSU for my KPA-1500 sits on a shelf
below it. The limitation is the length of the cables that connect the
PSU to the RF deck. I don't remember the length -- check the poop sheet
on the Elecraft website.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 219, Issue 2

[jerry]

On 2022-07-02 04:02, Dave B via Elecraft wrote:

Hi.

At the very least, see if the embedded Linux it uses (what version of
what distro, anyone know?
*** If there is command line access, then "uname -a" can sometimes give 
a hint.


     - jerry, KF6VB



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Re: [Elecraft] Steve KC6ZKT

[jerry]

On 2022-06-27 15:23, Dynolab wrote:

Since the semi manufactures stopped making Bipolar RF Power transistors 
in
the middle of the last decade, most Ham HF transceiver manufactures 
were
forced into using inferior so-called 12 Volt MOSFETs in their finals. 
And as
a result, have had great difficulty in meeting even minimal 
Intermodulation

Distortion (IMD) standards.

*** I'm guessing that 12V is just really minimal for these  MOSFETS, is 
that
right?  I'm kitting up for a homebrew project right now - the design 
uses

a 12V-24V converter to get decent voltage for a 25W output stage.

   - Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day and FT-8

[jerry]

On 2022-06-26 12:48, Jim Brown wrote:
 I

have zero interest in FT8 contesting.

*** I have zero interest in FT8 in general...but contesting might be a 
good use case for it.  Its weakness is
that it doesn't allow chatting - the format is fixed.  But contesting is 
like that anyway.


  Might be fun to write a software robot to go win Field Day for me :).

 - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] Common K3 failure modes???

[Jerry Moore]

I get a PEBKAC error with my K3S all the time...

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Udo Langenohl - DK5YA
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2022 6:10 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Common K3 failure modes???

> - Diodes at input blown up because of extremely strong signals 
> near-frequency. Bandfilters may help, as does careful frequency 
> planning and some antenna distance. (ages ago I used a FT747 which 
> uses a light bulb as protection - after a heavy radio weekend I had 
> the lightbulb open and one of the input coils fused!) 73,
> 
> Geert Jan PE1HZG

I own 3x K3, one a pure "S" and 2 which are pimped to be a "S" (almost..).

Blown diodes at the input (both Main and Sub RX) are the most common failures 
I'm struggling with for several years with each of my K3's. 
None of them blown by strong nearby signals but all of them by lightning in 
summer. I've never been faced by a direct hit - luckily - but a strike say some 
500 meters or even a kilometer away will send these diodes to the great 
Mannitou Of Radio. I have to admit that this is a hilltop QTH and sometimes I 
forget to disconnect the whole stuff when I'm in a QRL hurry or something 
similar (XYL hurry i.e..).
Fun fact: during our DU-DXpedition on Panglao Isl. we were in the very heart of 
all thunderstorms years ago when strong linghtning apperaed every evening and 
night for hours. We had two K3 with us and none of them struggled with dead 
diodes at the input. Just because I had a box with several spare with me? Only 
Murphy knows.

BTW, several broken knobs along the years too, thats another common failure.

73 Udo, DK5YA
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Re: [Elecraft] The Most Interesting Ham in the World [New KX2 Ad]

[jerry]

...And multiple HOAs vie for his antennas.

- Jerry

On 2022-06-08 12:15, Logan R Zintsmaster wrote:

When he calls CQ, the DX piles up on him.

Logan KE7AZ

Entropy is winning.


On Jun 8, 2022, at 8:22 AM, jerry  wrote:

On 2022-06-07 18:45, Nate Bargmann wrote:
He builds his own radios with Direct Digital Synthesis out of 
discrete

components.


*** Components?  The Most Interesting Ham doesn't need no steenkin 
components.
He goes to the beach to gather silicon.  He travels to the mysterious 
East to mine

his copper.

 - Jerry, KF6VB



His synthesizers have no detectable jitter or phase noise.
The NIST adjusts WWV to his transmissions.
He is...the most interesting ham in the world.
73, Nate, N0NB
--
"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
Web: https://www.n0nb.us
Projects: https://github.com/N0NB
GPG fingerprint: 82D6 4F6B 0E67 CD41 F689 BBA6 FB2C 5130 D55A 8819
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Re: [Elecraft] The Most Interesting Ham in the World [New KX2 Ad]

[jerry]

On 2022-06-07 18:45, Nate Bargmann wrote:

He builds his own radios with Direct Digital Synthesis out of discrete
components.


*** Components?  The Most Interesting Ham doesn't need no steenkin 
components.
He goes to the beach to gather silicon.  He travels to the mysterious 
East to mine

his copper.

  - Jerry, KF6VB




His synthesizers have no detectable jitter or phase noise.

The NIST adjusts WWV to his transmissions.

He is...the most interesting ham in the world.

73, Nate, N0NB

--
"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."
Web: https://www.n0nb.us
Projects: https://github.com/N0NB
GPG fingerprint: 82D6 4F6B 0E67 CD41 F689 BBA6 FB2C 5130 D55A 8819

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 as a phase noise measurement tool

[jerry]

and I have an Ebay special GPSDO, which is ridiculously accurate.  
But I

don't know how pure it is.

 - Jerry KF6VB

On 2022-06-07 17:14, Wes wrote:

Sure, but how do you quantify the "relatively pure" source if you
build one?  Typically you want it to be 10 dB better than what you are
measuring (or the measuring instrument).

The other option is a commercial source with published specs.  For
example I have an ebay special Morion MV89 10 MHz OCXO that is
specified at -150 dBc/Hz at 1 kHz offset, which is way better than you
could measure with a spectrum analyzer technique.

Wes  N7WS



On 6/7/2022 2:12 PM, jerry wrote:

On 2022-06-07 13:56, Wes wrote:
 *plus* the phase

fluctuations in the measurement system's oscillators and/or sampling
clock jitter.  This is the K3/P3.


*** I wonder if the noise of the K3/P3 could be measured using a 
relatively pure
signal source - then once that's known, you would subtract the K3/P3's 
noise from the

total noise measured from the DUT.

   I had a book somewhere with plans for a really clean 
single-frequency signal source.  It used several
identical crystals;  one as an oscillator and then some more as a 
filter to clean it up.


      - Jerry KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] I need a Sherlock Holmes (weird spurs on 40m)

[jerry]

On 40M I see noise every 15 kHz.  It's constant.  Sometimes stronger, 
sometimes
weaker, but it's always there.  The pattern is obvious on the waterfall 
display.

When I tune in one of the peaks, it sounds like a rhythmic grinding.

- Jerry KF6VB



On 2022-06-07 16:59, Alan Bloom wrote:

The weird thing about these spurs is how clean and stable they are.
Switching power supply noise is generally not frequency-stable and it
is not a clean CW carrier.  This one is actually TWO clean carriers,
separated by about 150 Hz.

Alan N1AL


On 6/7/22 17:43, Fred Jensen wrote:
I did the "Main Breaker 2-Step" and nothing went away.  My noise on 80 
and 40 on the K3/P3 is highly varied ...


1.  Narrow discrete carriers [that appear linked, 25-35 kHz apart] 
come and go, sometimes within seconds


2.  Broad [5-10 kHz] bands of noise, often without any harmonic 
brethren [that I can find] that come in pulses that look like 
wide-band AMTOR


3. "Rope-like" noise on the WF, with and without harmonic brethren 
that often changes in character but mainly a primary signal 
oscillating back and forth in frequency over maybe 5 kHz.


Underground utilities, but we do have a 345 kV transmission line about 
two miles away that runs from a large power plant 5 or 6 miles east to 
somewhere up in OR near the Columbia.  Sources are a mystery, but I've 
suspected harmonics of transmission line carrier-current signaling ... 
they really look like sometimes it's just idling, and then a burst of 
information.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Alan Bloom wrote on 6/7/2022 4:21 PM:
As part of christening my new QTH/antenna/rig here at N1AL, today I 
did the test where I recorded all off-the-air spurious signals on all 
bands and then threw the main circuit  breaker for the house and did 
the measurement again, powering the K4 from a battery.  This is to 
identify any spurs that are coming from my house so I can do further 
sleuthing to figure out what is causing them.


One spur (or set of spurs) has me mystified.  It is a series of 
harmonics, with very stable frequencies, spaced at precisely 24 kHz, 
that extend from roughly 6.6 MHz to 7.4 MHz.  Each spur consists of a 
main carrier and a secondary carrier approximately 150 Hz lower in 
frequency and approximately 8 dB lower in amplitude.  The spurs are 
all the same amplitude, around -90 dBm (S6), dropping off as you 
approach 6.6 or 7.4 MHz.  I don't see these spurs on any other band.


The spur amplitudes did not change when I turned off AC power, so it 
can't be the rig's switching power supply or any other electronic 
device in the house.  It's nothing internal to the radio because if I 
switch to a dummy antenna the spurs go away.


So it's coming in through the antenna.  The antenna is a 6-band trap 
vertical about 30 feet from the house, with the coax coming 
underground to the shack.  We're on a large lot, there is a canyon 
(i.e. no houses) behind the property, and there is a vacant lot on 
the side where the antenna is located so the nearest houses in the 
neighborhood are about 150 feet away from the antenna.


The electric utility power lines switch from overhead to underground 
at our property line, about 150 feet away from the antenna. Internet 
is via cable, which is underground also.  Both power and Internet 
enter at the far end of the main house, which is over 100 feet from 
the shack, located in a granny unit.


I believe the exact fundamental frequency is 7007.03 kHz / 292 = 
23.9967 kHz, in case that's a clue.


Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this?

Alan N1AL






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Re: [Elecraft] P3 as a phase noise measurement tool

[jerry]

On 2022-06-07 13:56, Wes wrote:
 *plus* the phase

fluctuations in the measurement system's oscillators and/or sampling
clock jitter.  This is the K3/P3.


*** I wonder if the noise of the K3/P3 could be measured using a 
relatively pure
signal source - then once that's known, you would subtract the K3/P3's 
noise from the

total noise measured from the DUT.

   I had a book somewhere with plans for a really clean single-frequency 
signal source.  It used several
identical crystals;  one as an oscillator and then some more as a filter 
to clean it up.


  - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] Relocating my KPA-1500 - need cable

[jerry]

On 2022-06-02 11:23, li...@w2irt.net wrote:

I hadn't considered that! Is there a preferred way of doing this over
longer distances? I'm sure I'm not the only person who's needed to
remote the amp.

 - pjd


As a homebrew project, if you want "robust" and "just works", it's hard 
to beat
CAN-bus.  A quick Google confirms that for a baud rate of 250K, it will 
work up to

820 feet.

 - Jerry KF6VB






-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 On Behalf Of Jack Brindle via
Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2022 12:30 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Relocating my KPA-1500 - need cable

Using a network connection would be a very good idea. Auxbus is not
meant to go 20 feet, and indeed will probably fail at that distance.
Thus using an alternate method to get frequency info to the amplifier
would be a good idea.

73,
Jack, W6FB



On Jun 2, 2022, at 10:34 AM, David Decoons  wrote:

Hi Peter,

Contact Bob, N6TV. He can make good quality DB 15 cables that are 
shielded.


Let me know when you are ready and I can help. Also you can do it as 
we discussed on the phone via the network, running a CAT 6 cable.


Call me if you have questions.

73
Dave wo2x

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 2, 2022, at 11:12 AM, li...@w2irt.net <mailto:li...@w2irt.net> 
wrote:


I need to move my KPA-1500 into the basement, and I've got an
electrician coming to put in the new outlet next week. But the only
tricky issue now is finding the correct cable to run to the amp from
my Y-Box to provide frequency/band data, etc. I will need a cable run
of about 20 feet, which will need to run behind the wall, down into a
crawlspace, then through a concrete wall to the new rack.

With sub-optimal eyesight and shaky hands, I'm not sure I'd by much
good making one, but if they're not available easily in the
aftermarket I guess I can give it a shot. Does anybody know where to
find a pre-made ~20ish foot long cable, or if not, (a) what pinouts
do I need, (b) where to source the correct cable to do this properly,
and (c) what connectors-I'm guessing DB15M and DB15F?




Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT

DXCC Card Checker/CQ-WAZ Checkpoint

www.facebook.com/W2IRT



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Re: [Elecraft] The Dreaded 400 Hz hump

[jerry]

I remember reading a magazine article many years ago... They showed a 
hole of frequencies in the normal human voice audio
spectrum where there is not much energy.  It was proposed to create a 
new modulation where the higher frequencies would be
shifted down into the hole - thus letting the SSB signal take up less 
spectrum - and then shifting those audio frequencies

back up at the receive end.

  Thinking about it...that's the sort of thing I would have expected to 
read in Ham Radio magazine.  I miss it.


- Jerry KF6VB


On 2022-05-20 17:10, Walter Underwood wrote:

About seven years ago, there was an extended discussion on this list
about equalization settings for transmit. I collected all the settings
people used and posted about the majority contour.

https://observer.wunderwood.org/2015/09/09/transmit-audio-and-compression-with-the-elecraft-kx3/

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On May 20, 2022, at 6:07 PM, Bob McGraw  wrote:

Oh yes it is there on many SSB signals where the OP is a male. That is 
where most of the fundamental male voice energy occurs. Those signals 
which look uniform across the SSB TX bandpass do sound good.


I attribute this to the fact most hams will "boost this and boost 
that" and never give thoughts to attenuating.  In fact the 
characteristics of the EQ in the boost mode are noticeable different 
than the attenuate mode.  Yes, one can hear the difference.


In my world of pro audio, it is a practice to attenuate first and then 
boost if absolutely necessary.   Hams just can't get over the fact 
they must always have more...boost boost boost.


So if ones signal is muddy or bassy, what's to do?   Attenuate the low 
end first, and rarely if ever,  boost the high end.  Of course 
boosting the high end will make it brighter, but not attenuating the 
low end will consume lots of unnecessary transmitter power not being 
used for effective communications. 50Hz - 16dB, 100Hz -16dB, 200Hz - 
16dB, 400Hz - 9dB, 800Hz - 0dB, 1.6kHz - 0dB, 2.4kHz +0dB, 2.4kHz 
+3dB, 3.2kHz + 6 dB.


Works for me.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 5/20/2022 4:30 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 19 May 2022 02:14:10 + (UTC)
From: Al Lorona
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] The dreaded 400 Hz hump
Message-ID:<1840135010.161126.1652926450...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Have you studied how SSB signals look on your panadapter? I believe 
about 90% of all phone signals have a very pronounced peak at about 
400 or 500 Hz. This peak is sometimes 10 dB (or more) higher than the 
rest of the bandwidth. This is wasted power and, to my ear, makes 
signals sound muddier.


On the other hand, every once in a while you'll see a signal that has 
a more or less flat frequency response, without any huge peaks. 
Sometimes, a signal will actually have slightly*more*  power in the 
higher frequencies, say, 2000 Hz and higher. I've noticed that these 
signals have much more articulation and punch. But these signals are 
all too scarce.


It's pretty well known that the aging population of hams collectively 
suffers from a high frequency hearing loss. It seems to me that this 
is even more reason to carefully shape your frequency response and 
cut the dreaded 400 Hz hump.


R,

Al? W6LX/4


--
IF ONE EXPECTS COMPUTERS AND TECHNOLOGY TO SOLVE THEIR PROBLEMS,
ONE DOESN'T UNDERSTAND COMPUTERS AND TECHNOLOGY
AND ONE DOESN'T UNDERSTAND THEIR PROBLEMS."


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Re: [Elecraft] May 15, Sunday 40 meter SSB net, 7.280, 1900Z

[jerry]

I was listening.  Signals were low & noise was high.

   - Jerry KF6VB

On 2022-05-15 13:33, Steve Hall wrote:

Thanks to all checking in and relay stations.
Signal levels were extremely low.

WM6P STEVE GA K4D Net Control
W9EJB ED IN K4D
N8SBE DAVE MI K3S
WB9JNZ ERIC IL K3
K1NW BRIAN RI K3
AB0R DAVE MN TS890
NC0JW/M JIM IL KX3
KK5LD DAN TX K3
AG4SX NEAL TN IC718
NC9O SKIP NC KX3
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s For Sale

[Jerry Moore]

If you get to the point of splitting it up I'm interested in the sub receiver 
and maybe the filter that's in it.. 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Joe Hoffman
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2022 11:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s For Sale


I tried to send this via Nabble but it never showed up.  I apologize for a dupe 
if that happens.

My K4 is due to arrive this week so it is time to sell my K3s.

This is a 10 Watt version, factory built that I bought new.  S/N 11296.

Options include:

2.1 kHz SSB filter (in addition to 2.7 kHz stock filter)

400 Hz CW filter

KRX3A Subreceiver

Matched filters in the Subreceiver

Ideally I would like to deliver it to the new owner at the Dayton Hamvention so 
that person could see the K3s is in excellent cosmetic and functional 
condition.  They could give me cash at that point.

Asking $2800

73,


Joe, W8JH

K3s, KPA 500, KAT 500, KXPA 100 and KX3 happy user.
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Re: [Elecraft] PayPal holding payment. (Follow up)

[jerry]

A similar situation.  I have learned BTW to never buy ANYTHING 
advertised on

Facebook.

   There was an ad for a nice metal-moving-parts model of a V8 engine.  
Looked
pretty cool, and I figured my 8 y/o son and I would have fun putting it 
together.


  In due time, a box arrived in the mail.  In it was a model of an 
engine - it
was a single plastic casting, no moving parts, crudely painted... and it 
smelled.


  I emailed the company and they offered me a 50% refund.  No thanks.  I 
filed a

dispute with Paypal.

  About a week later, Paypal refunded my money.  No fuss, no muss.  I 
tossed the

smelly chunk of plastic in the trash.

  - Jerry KF6VB




On 2022-05-08 07:17, George Thornton wrote:

I had a situation with a frankly fraudulent internet vendor that was
claiming discount prices on a name brand product.  The web page looked
identical to the official company in design and appeared to be an
outlet for the company.

I placed a small order as a test but then changed my mind within an
hour after reading up on problems.  I tried to cancel the order with
the company but of course they did not respond and claimed to have
shipped.  I of course never got anything.

I went to Paypal who of course paid the company.  I kept crying fraud
and after a couple months of back and forth nonsense and my
persistence they finally refunded.

I agree Paypal offers no protection for the most blatantly fraudulent
transactions.  They are almost complicit in the fraud from their side
because they could easily see a pattern of activity

Their own inaction under these circumstances almost makes them
complicit in the fraud itself.


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 On Behalf Of Frank Krozel
Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2022 4:55 AM
To: David Deelstra 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PayPal holding payment. (Follow up)

And don't be surprised when you get a 1099 from PayPal!
-73-  FrankKG9H
kg9hfr...@gmail.com




On May 7, 2022, at 10:23 PM, David Deelstra  
wrote:


After a rabbit hole trip through PayPal's endless loop "customer 
service" pages, I stumbled on a page that asked what help I needed. I 
kept entering "Notice of Delivery". When it ran out of questions and 
options, finally I was presented with a page with a 6 digit number on 
a black background, below which was a phone number. I called, got 
instructions on what to do, spent the next ten minutes listening to 
the pages (verbatim) I had spent the last three hours digging through. 
Finally I was asked for the six digit pass code then sat through 
another eternity on hold finally answered by a human sounding voice. I 
explained that I had been trying to find a way to send them Proof of 
Delivery. She said PayPal already had POD and that my buyer only had 
to log in to his account, go to Activity, scroll down to the item and 
click to release payment. None of this was transmitted to me or the 
buyer by PayPal or shown on their "Help" pages.
I contacted the buyer, he followed up, and within minutes the subject 
"Your money is available" appeared in my in box.
I hope this helps others avoid similar problems. I intend to call my 
credit union's customer service and see what I can do to (legally and 
safely, for both parties) transfer funds for goods and services. Maybe 
VISA would be willing to offer such a service, or the shipping 
companies? How 'bout it UPS?


73, Dave N7ISH

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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Re: [Elecraft] IndeIdefinate support for K3s?

[jerry]

On 2022-05-02 11:40, David Gilbert wrote:


A modular upgradable rig isn't anything special if you can no longer
buy modules.

*** Might actually be a negative.  Connectors can be unreliable.

  - Jerry KF6VB




Dave   AB7E


On 5/2/2022 9:01 AM, Skip Davis via Elecraft wrote:

Dave you wrote:
"Parts are obviously still available for the modules and accessories 
for which they accepted last time buy orders ... they just decided not 
to make any more after that."
Well maybe you need to re-read the post from Elecraft regarding not 
being able to obtain some of the parts for the modules. As has been 
pointed out by many manufacturers there is a worldwide parts 
procurement problem going on and many parts are now unobtainable which 
it isn’t exclusive to Elecraft.


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[Elecraft] Bringing K3s-P3 out of storage ?

[Jerry Moore]

Are there any suggested steps prior to powering them on or just plug n play?
Tnx.
De AE4PB ..
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Re: [Elecraft] IndeIdefinate support for K3s?

[Jerry Moore]

I guess my question was more geared toward if I had to repair and module are 
the components still available to fix the module not necessarily the module 
itself.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Fred Jensen 
Sent: Sunday, May 1, 2022 3:53:10 PM
To: David Gilbert 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] IndeIdefinate support for K3s?

I don't think it has much if anything to do with the size of Elecraft.
WW2 gear was built with point-to-point wiring and components [e.g.
resistors, capacitors] that were available through the 40's, 50's, 60's,
70's,  80's, and even into the early 90's.  My Swan 500C in the late
60's was still wired point-to-point. You could buy a .01 mfd capacitor
... in the 40's it would likely be wax impregnated paper with two leads,
later it might be a disc ceramic with two leads maybe a little smaller
but still visible.

Technology made a sharp turn as silicon replaced nearly everything and
"Honey, I shrank all the parts" became a great hit at the box office.
And, the availability life of the nearly invisible parts decreased
dramatically. More and more function was being crammed into less and
less space, and the individual parts did far more than just provide
capacitive reactance.  Many multi-functional things you could buy
readily in early 2000 were closing in on unobtanium before the the end
of the decade. It's affected everything and everyone, it will probably
continue, and Elecraft is caught in it just like everyone else.

And, then there's the Great Exodus to Offshore Manufacturing ... another
factor for another time.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

David Gilbert wrote on 5/1/2022 12:20 PM:
> I guess one way to look at this is that Elecraft is a small company
> that outgrew its ability to do everything they said they would.
> Understandable maybe, but unfortunate.
>
> 73,
> Dave   AB7E
>
>
>
>
> On 5/1/2022 5:26 AM, Jerry Moore wrote:
>> How long will elecraft continue to support the case 3s and are there
>> any components or modules that we should buy in advance because they
>> won't be supportable in the future?
>>
>> Tnx
>> De ae4pb ..
>



--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
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[Elecraft] IndeIdefinate support for K3s?

[Jerry Moore]

How long will elecraft continue to support the case 3s and are there any 
components or modules that we should buy in advance because they won't be 
supportable in the future?

Tnx
De ae4pb ..

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Get Outlook for Android
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Re: [Elecraft] Follow-up to OT

[jerry]

On a related note - Genasun advertises that their solar charging 
controllers are

quiet.

  - Jerry KF6VB

On 2022-04-27 13:43, ws6x@gmail.com wrote:

FWIW:
Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry about "clean" inverters. Here 
is a

summary.
While it is unlikely to find any inverter which is 100% rf quiet, some
designs are much better, or worse, than others. These following 
products are
FCC compliant [Title 47 (CFR), Part 15 Subpart B for Class B Device] 
and

have proven to be rf quiet in field use:

Morningstar SureSine series
Samlex inverters
Cotek inverters
One person reported that the SunForce PRO series inverters were very 
quiet.



Thanks again,
Jim - WS6X


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[Elecraft] K3s-P3 remote from basement- K3/0??

[Jerry Moore]

II'd like to be able to use the key 3 / 0 to relocate my rig to the basement 
and operate from my office with the least amount of heavy or large cables. 
Based on looking at the manual it doesn't appear that the unit is designed 
originally to be used that way however it's implied that it probably can be 
with special cabling (without the other boxes).

Does anyone know if this is possible? I have no desire to connect my rig to the 
internet and the distance between my rig and the k-30 would be within the 
physical limits of USB which is 90 m. Primary use would be slow speed c w and 
some voice. Thanks in advance.
De ae4pb ..

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Service: we hear you

[jerry]

On 2022-04-21 14:49, Wayne Burdick wrote:


It comes down to two things: the
design lifetime of modern, miniature components like ICs and
connectors; and a fickle supply chain--one that imploded because of
events of the past two years.


This reminds me of a youtube video I recently watched.  "Curious Mark"
was trying to fix an HP ( or Agilent, or whatever they're calling 
themselves
these days ) tracking generator from the 90's.  He had an interesting 
conversation with HP:


"Could you give me the schematic?"

"I'm sorry, we don't give that out for newer equipment".

"OK, could I send it in for repair?"

"I'm sorry, we don't do that for older equipment".

...He wound up fixing it himself.  An amazing feat of reverse 
engineering.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVrDyLMVS4U


 - Jerry KF6VB










I can promise that we'll do everything possible to keep ahead of these
issues. As evidence I could point to:

- the K2, still in production after 20 years

- the KX3, still in production after 10 years

- the K3 (going on 14 years; even though we're no longer selling it,
we're acquiring the components to build additional modules and
continue providing support)

This is in stark contrast to the practice of some of our competitors,
replacing radios with new ones that are largely tweaks on the old, on
a new-car/new-smartphone cycle of every few years.

Throughout the lifetime of each of our products, we've offered new
accessories, new internal option modules, and numerous free firmware
updates. This gradual evolution of each product line is consistent
with our roots as a kit company, engaging what amounts to a nation of
Elmers in a community of growth and camaraderie.

Thanks, again, for being the best customers a little company ever had.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity speaker set for sale

[jerry]

On 2022-04-18 11:45, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/18/2022 11:21 AM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:
Many found at hamfests are 2 ohm speakers while amateur receivers and 
transceivers for the last 60 years have required 4-8 ohm speakers.


FALSE! Impedance matching has not been practiced in audio for at least
60 years -- it dates to the days of vacuum tube output stages. There's
nothing wrong with using 2 ohm speakers with gear rated 4-8 ohms --
indeed, they will play a bit louder for the same volume setting!


*** In fact, I seem to remember a feature of good audio amps - "damping 
factor".  It's basically a measure of
how low-low-low - much lower than the speaker impedance - the output 
impedance of the amp is.  A good damping factor
helps control inertia effects in the speaker cone - helps give you 
"tight bass".


   - Jerry KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping via UPS - A Lesson Learned the Hard Way

[jerry]

I have one problem with USPS - they lie.  Occasionally.  They say things 
have
been delivered when they have not been delivered.  Yesterday, they said 
they
delivered a couple of pieces of aluminum for my latest project - I went 
out to

look when the email came in... no package.

  Sometimes stuff will appear a few days later, sometimes not.  It's a 
real PITA,
because then I have to go argue with the seller - who is totally not at 
fault, but

what can I do?

- Jerry KF6VB



On 2022-04-13 08:06, Andrew Moore wrote:
What's your favorite kind of potato chips? I like Utz, or anything 
plain

and unruffled. Cape Cod is good too.

Plain Utz is my favorite! But with ruffles. For Cape Cod it's the dark
russets.

Salt and vinegar: Just say no. If vinegar and chips don't belong in the
same room together, how can they possibly be allowed in the same bag? 
Makes

no sense.

Your preemptive strike on the "easily ruffled" joke is appreciated.

On Wed, Apr 13, 2022 at 10:38 AM Julia Tuttle  
wrote:


What's your favorite kind of potato chips? I like Utz, or anything 
plain

and unruffled. Cape Cod is good too.

Tragically, I will now be making the "that's funny because you're so
easily ruffled, Julia" joke before any of y'all have a chance.

On Wed, Apr 13, 2022, 10:01 Andrew Moore  
wrote:



> Elecraft products are relatively small however they are expensive and
many of us have shipped them so I think this is a good subject for 
the

list.

Kudos to John for bringing some humor into an otherwise monotonous 
thread

(I'm not being sarcastic here).

I eat snacks in front of my Elecraft so a discussion of potato chips 
is

warranted too, LOL.

The irony is that despite my initial ask (which I think only three 
people

actually understood and addressed; the rest responded with irrelevant
opinion), I find myself reading most of the thread.

To the original poster (Ted I think? I was a while back):

In the interest of staying on topic: despite your frustration with 
the

cost
of the UPS Store service, the explanation is also revealed what you 
wrote:
the alternative - nearest UPS depot - was a 90 mile round trip. You 
pay

for
the convenience of having a drop-off location close by, not having to 
pay
high fuel costs for a 90 mile drive, not having to spend a minimum of 
3

hours for that effort, etc.

In the interest of getting off topic: I've had loads of success with 
USPS

Priority, and there's probably a real USPS office near your location.

I do understand your frustration with the price. I grumble every time 
the

cost of potato chips goes up. A family size bag cost $2.45 just a few
years
ago. Now it's just under $5.00, and I swear the bag is smaller and 
it's

filled with more air,  fewer chips.

Oh jeez, here we go with the potato chips. My KX2 is out for delivery
today! I'm going to celebrate by having a snack in front of it.

Speaking of USPS, many thanks to Madelyn & Elecraft for such a prompt
delivery. The KX2 left Elecraft in California at 3 pm Monday and will 
be
delivered in Maine less than 48 hour later. That's 2,700 miles in 
less

than
2 days and cost me just $32.46 via USPS, and all I did was sit on my 
butt.

Eating chips.

73,
-Andrew NV1B
..


On Wed, Apr 13, 2022 at 7:55 AM  wrote:

> In this case the subject line makes it very obvious that the original
post
> is about shipping. Elecraft products are relatively small however they
are
> expensive and many of us have shipped them so I think this is a good
> subject
> for the list.
>
> If you read the archives like I do it is very easy to pick which posts
you
> wish to read. It is easy to ignore the ones that are not of interest and
> there is nothing to delete.
> http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2022-April/date.html
>
> John KK9A
>
>
> Andrew Moore nv1b wrote:
>
> Other than trying to remember and ignore by subject line, is there a
way to
> mute specific threads on the Elecraft mailing list (via qth.net)? Maybe
> I'm
> thinking of the feature on @groups.io mailing lists - but this would be
> helpful as Elecraft related topics morph into posts containing no
Elecraft
> content. While this content has value, it also dilutes value, as it's
not
> Elecraft specific.
>
> Thanks & 73,
> -Andrew NV1B
>
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Re: [Elecraft] A hat was saved (totally apropos of nothing)

[jerry]

On 2022-03-29 12:01, Jim Brown wrote:


You may have missed the two-year long pandemic that, among other
things, has sickened multiple Elecraft employees, caused many to work
from home, and disrupted supply chains,


*** In this environment, it took me two years to get
an apartment turned over.  I think the kitchen cabinets took 10 months.

  - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering Tool Recommendations?

[jerry]

All,

   The discussion of desoldering tools inspired me to try something I've 
seen on Amazon:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094ZCRXMN

  It's basically a solder sucker with a heated tip.  $36, free Prime 
shipping.
It arrived this morning, and I just tried it out.  I dug out an old 
video board and desoldered
a pin header.  Worked *flawlessly*.  The only real trick was to hold the 
tip on the board a little
longer - to get that solder melted all the way down the hole.  But 
that's for any desoldering tool.


 It cleaned out the holes very nicely, and did not mess up the lands or 
traces.


  - Jerry KF6VB








On 2022-03-13 22:06, Tony wrote:

All:

Can anyone recommend a budget de-soldering iron that can be used in
tight places? I need to remove a small component that has a few
surface mount devices close by so the iron would need to have a small
tip.

Also need advice on the best soldering iron to use for this type of
work as well as the best low-temp Rosin core solder to use.

Thanks,

Tony -K2MO

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500

[jerry]

On 2022-03-22 02:24, F5vjc wrote:

What is the advantage of using a band switching cable between the
transceiver and the KPA500 over just relying on the RF sensing 
function?




Do you trust that RF sensing function?  REALLY trust it?  Because if you 
transmit
into the wrong LPF, it can be Game Over for the PA transistors.  I went 
through
three sets of expensive LDMOS devices on my Medium Linear project before 
I bit the bullet

and hooked up the band data from my FTDX10.

With the band data hooked up, the linear is always set to the correct 
band.  Even before

you transmit.

  - Jerry KF6VB








I want to drive my KPA500 from an FTDX 101D, is a cable the better way 
to

go?

73 F5VJC
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Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering Tool Recommendations?

[jerry]

On 2022-03-14 15:35, Wayne Burdick wrote:

The following is only tangentially related, but it has to be dusted
off periodically:

https://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html


Cute.  If it's a  board I care about - say the motherboard of my K2 - I
would proceed directly to step 8 ( clip the part ).  Parts are cheap.  
Boards are expensive.


Back in the 70's I labored as a tech in a telephone equipment factory of 
a company that shall remain nameless ( Oh, all right, it was Northern 
Telecom ).


Us techs troubleshot, but all rework was done by the rework girls.  
Their station was in the middle of the test floor.  These ladies 
soldered and desoldered all day, and they were GOOD at it.  It was 
mostly DIP TTL chips, although there were some big LSI's.  They always 
started with step 8:  Clip-clip-clip-clip-TOSS.


  One of my fellow "techs"  ( I use the term advisedly ) had a unique 
technique for troubleshooting:
He would mark the first two rows of chips and have the ladies replace 
them.  If that didn't work, he

would mark the SECOND two rows of chips... etc.

  Another ( much smarter ) guy was troubleshooting one of the boards in 
the dog pile.  A +5-to-ground short.  No progress.  He came in one 
Saturday determined to conquer this thing no matter what.  He found a 
50A 5V supply and hooked it to the 5V and ground.  With 50A flowing 
through the board, he took a sensitive DVM and probed - one side on the 
+5, other side ground.  The spot with the lowest voltage was his short.  
What was it?  An EXTRA plated through hole.  I gained great respect for 
the conductive power

of those holes...

      - Jerry KF6VB









I wrote this long ago. Hopefully it's still as dubiously relevant as 
ever.


Wayne
N6KR



On 2022-03-13 22:06, Tony wrote:



All:

Can anyone recommend a budget de-soldering iron that can be used in
tight places? I need to remove a small component that has a few
surface mount devices close by so the iron would need to have a 
small

tip.

Also need advice on the best soldering iron to use for this type of
work as well as the best low-temp Rosin core solder to use.

Thanks,

Tony -K2MO




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Re: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

[jerry]

On 2022-03-14 08:19, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

I think a K2 would not be a great project for most 8 year olds.
However, a simpler (and cheaper) kit like this one from MFJ should be
within a beginner skill level, given some reasonable coaching. (Also a
soldering station to avoid soldering iron frustration!)

I keep meaning to show him how to solder.  Don't want him to get burned 
though.


Some simple project with blinking lights.I also have a crystal radio 
that I built
for him.   Plan to take it apart and bundle it into a "kit" for him to 
put together.


At this point in his development, he is more interested in "how things 
look", rather
than "how they work".  He quickly gets impatient when I try to show him 
schematics.


We have soldering irons up the kazoo.  The  best one is an XYtronics 
LF-3200 - it's
a 120W soldering station with an RF-powered iron.  Just like a Metcal, 
only without

the Metcal price.  That sucker heats up in about 10 seconds.

- Jerry KF6VB





https://mfjenterprises.com/collections/kit/products/vec-1340k
<https://mfjenterprises.com/collections/kit/products/vec-1340k>

Which raises a question: what other similar kits are still around? As
far as I know, the ones from the good old days (1990s) are defunct.

Doug, W0UHU

---

Message: 22
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2022 17:44:50 -0400
From: Kevin Cozens mailto:ke...@ve3syb.ca>>
To: K2 mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability
Message-ID: <3006cfa4-f73e-efa0-93a2-f70717f91...@ve3syb.ca
<mailto:3006cfa4-f73e-efa0-93a2-f70717f91...@ve3syb.ca>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

On 2022-03-13 15:13, jerry wrote:

My 8 y/o son has been lusting after an $800 Lego kit.  A walking Star
Wars tank. It has something like 8000 pieces.  I explained to my wife
that it would reasonably keep him busy for a whole week.  But she 
didn't
see the logic :).  So we bought him a simpler kit with 1200 pieces 
that

will keep him busy for one day.


I don't know whether the K2 or the $800 Lego kit would take less time 
to

build but he will learn some new skills assembling the K2. The K2 could
spark an interest that could last a lifetime where the walking Star 
Wars

tank could be forgotten in a few months.

--
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/ <http://www.ve3syb.ca/>   | "Nerds
make the shiny things that
https://www.patreon.com/KevinCozens
<https://www.patreon.com/KevinCozens> | distract the mouth-breathers,
and
| that's why we're powerful"
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  |
#include  | --Chris Hardwick


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Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering Tool Recommendations?

[jerry]

It's hard to beat a good old big blue Soldapullt.

  To remove the offending part with minimal damage to its surroundings, 
it's generally
wise to chop the part off its leads first.  Then if you have access to 
both sides of the
board, you can heat each land with a soldering iron and pull the lead 
out with a pair
of tweezers or needle-nose pliers.  Then suck the land clean with the 
soldapullt.
Alternatively, you can clean it with solder wick, and poke the hole 
through with a

toothpick.

  I haven't had much luck with desoldering irons.  I did buy a 
desoldering station.
It has a vacuum pump in the base unit, and a separate iron in a stand, 
with a vacuum
chamber and filter.  The pump starts when you pull the trigger on the 
iron.  It's a
Chinese copy of a Hakko.  First of all, the pump is not very strong.  
Not that much airflow
or suction.  Much less than a Soldapullt.  Second, it takes it a LONG 
time to warm up,

I guess because the desoldering head has high mass.

   - Jerry KF6VB




On 2022-03-13 22:06, Tony wrote:

All:

Can anyone recommend a budget de-soldering iron that can be used in
tight places? I need to remove a small component that has a few
surface mount devices close by so the iron would need to have a small
tip.

Also need advice on the best soldering iron to use for this type of
work as well as the best low-temp Rosin core solder to use.

Thanks,

Tony -K2MO

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Re: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

[jerry]

On 2022-03-13 12:19, eda...@aya.yale.edu wrote:

Ah, to be 8 again.

*** It's not all beer and skittles.  My Max has had a tough time the 
past few years.
Due to COVID.  Hiding in the house.  No friends.  He did not get to play 
with any other child
for over a year.  Back in April of 2020, he cried like a baby when I 
told him that there would

be no summer school.

  When they sent him home in March of 2020, I immediately went onto 
Amazon and got the biggest
set of "Snap Circuits".  I also bought a paid subscription to Zoom, so 
he could have virtual

visits with his friends.

     - Jerry KF6VB







Even better, to be 8 with a Dad who understands . . .




-Original Message-----
From: jerry 
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2022 1:14 PM
To: eda...@aya.yale.edu
Cc: 'George Thornton' ;
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

My 8 y/o son has been lusting after an $800 Lego kit.  A walking Star 
Wars

tank.
It has something like 8000 pieces.  I explained to my wife that it 
would
reasonably keep him busy for a whole week.  But she didn't see the 
logic :).
So we bought him a simpler kit with 1200 pieces that will keep him busy 
for

one day.


    - Jerry KF6VB





On 2022-01-28 13:49, eda...@aya.yale.edu wrote:

Same here.  For me the build is most of the fun.  To put it in
perspective:
My daughter once told me that when her son, my grandson, was 8, he was
a Leggo kit wiz.  He would finish a $50 Leggo kit in a morning, a $75
kit in a long afternoon.  She said it was costing her nearly $20 an
hour to keep him occupied.  Since I take my time with the K2 build, my
cost per hour is less than what it costs to keep an eight year-old
amused.  And to the same effect.

Ted, KN1CBR




-Original Message-
From: George Thornton 
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2022 2:41 PM
To: eda...@aya.yale.edu; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

As a former K2 owner I can say at least half the fun of one of these
was to build it myself.

This is one of the last kinds of major kits that involve assembling
all the components onto a circuit board.  Today with all the surface
mount devices the technical challenge is too much for most of us and
kits largely become a mechanical assembly of already completed circuit
boards.






-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 On
Behalf Of eda...@aya.yale.edu
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2022 1:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

I don't know the answer to the question though I agree with someone
else who
said they are different commodities.  However, in the long run an
unopened
kit may be worth a small fortune, like some unopened games and Barbie
dolls
are.  The K2 deliveries are presently TBD . . . I have one (my fifth)
on
order and no ESD is posted.  I assume it's a parts problem.  The K2 
has

already had a number of small component modifications made as the
traditional parts have become unobtainable or uneconomic.  If it were
possible to place an order for the final five S/Ns, whenever that
happens,
I'd pay for them today.  What say, Wayne -- will you make me that 
deal?


Ted, KN1CBR


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:23:45 -0500
From: KJ 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability
Message-ID: <4f2b806a-73f8-4d97-9dd5-3af7ecc6a...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Hello all,
Does anyone have experience as far as which is more marketable?
Assembled or unassembled? Is there a price difference in posting 
either

for
sale?
Thanks!
Ken, W2GIW


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Re: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

[jerry]

My 8 y/o son has been lusting after an $800 Lego kit.  A walking Star 
Wars tank.
It has something like 8000 pieces.  I explained to my wife that it would 
reasonably
keep him busy for a whole week.  But she didn't see the logic :).  So we 
bought him

a simpler kit with 1200 pieces that will keep him busy for one day.


   - Jerry KF6VB





On 2022-01-28 13:49, eda...@aya.yale.edu wrote:
Same here.  For me the build is most of the fun.  To put it in 
perspective:
My daughter once told me that when her son, my grandson, was 8, he was 
a
Leggo kit wiz.  He would finish a $50 Leggo kit in a morning, a $75 kit 
in a
long afternoon.  She said it was costing her nearly $20 an hour to keep 
him
occupied.  Since I take my time with the K2 build, my cost per hour is 
less

than what it costs to keep an eight year-old amused.  And to the same
effect.

Ted, KN1CBR




-Original Message-
From: George Thornton 
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2022 2:41 PM
To: eda...@aya.yale.edu; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

As a former K2 owner I can say at least half the fun of one of these 
was to

build it myself.

This is one of the last kinds of major kits that involve assembling all 
the
components onto a circuit board.  Today with all the surface mount 
devices
the technical challenge is too much for most of us and kits largely 
become a

mechanical assembly of already completed circuit boards.






-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On

Behalf Of eda...@aya.yale.edu
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2022 1:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

I don't know the answer to the question though I agree with someone 
else who
said they are different commodities.  However, in the long run an 
unopened
kit may be worth a small fortune, like some unopened games and Barbie 
dolls
are.  The K2 deliveries are presently TBD . . . I have one (my fifth) 
on

order and no ESD is posted.  I assume it's a parts problem.  The K2 has
already had a number of small component modifications made as the
traditional parts have become unobtainable or uneconomic.  If it were
possible to place an order for the final five S/Ns, whenever that 
happens,

I'd pay for them today.  What say, Wayne -- will you make me that deal?

Ted, KN1CBR


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:23:45 -0500
From: KJ 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability
Message-ID: <4f2b806a-73f8-4d97-9dd5-3af7ecc6a...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Hello all,
Does anyone have experience as far as which is more marketable?
Assembled or unassembled? Is there a price difference in posting either 
for

sale?
Thanks!
Ken, W2GIW


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[jerry]

On 2022-03-06 12:54, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Morgan,

    Wow! That's a LOT of very useful information. While my situation
doesn't include an amp, I like your comment about not being able to
"kill" the Mercury III's.


*** I actually ordered one of those.  Or so I thought.  It seems that my 
email
may not have gone through.  Long story, having to do with private email 
servers and reverse DNS.


  I was actually on the fence.  Because I've been working on a homebrew 
project I call the "Medium Linear".  It's a pair of MRF300's.  A 
wraparound cabinet from a Heathkit "Single Bander".  Big heatsink in the 
back with a Noctua fan.  Little touch screen.


  I am already thinking about the next project - a bigger linear.  The 
Medium Linear only does about 350W on SSB with low distortion.I'm 
assured that this is about normal for a pair of MRF300's.  The Bigger 
Linear would use an unusual power supply - a *battery*.  I have a pair 
of Panasonic Lithium Ion battery packs.  Each one is rated about 50V, 
and can source a constant current of 100A.  I would keep it topped up 
with a 50V 20A supply, and should be able to do an honest kilowatt on CW 
and SSB from an ordinary 125VAC socket.


   - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[jerry]

Well,

   The concrete pad had to go in, for other reasons.  Specifically, that 
solar
field saves me thousands of dollars per year in natural gas heating for 
the swimming pool.


   I would have been a fool not to put that wire in it, while the forms 
were

open.

   By "work" I mean that the bands sound lively - people hear me and 
give me similar reports to what I give them.  Can't put it any more 
precise than that - and hams are often polite :).


   The concrete pad is roughly oriented north-south.  It's on the west 
side of a hill.  It works really well to the southwest - LA, south 
pacific, Japan - as one
would expect.  It actually works better to the west than I thought it 
would - being that the top of the hill is higher than the top of the 
antenna... and yes, I do know most of the radiation is from the 
high-current part near the bottom.


  I suspect that not having radials to the East causes the radiation 
pattern to be
higher than it might otherwise be...which might be just what it needs to 
hop over that hill.


  Still, it might be fun to try laying out some radials and see if it 
makes a difference.  Maybe with some sort of remote controlled switch to 
connect and disconnect them for A-B comparison :).


       - Jerry KF6VB











On 2022-01-16 10:41, Jim Brown wrote:

On 1/16/2022 10:21 AM, jerry wrote:

Have you actually tried one?  Mine seems to work.


Define "work." N6BT famously said many years ago that everything
"works" by quickly working all continents on a light bulb.

I was ready to put

out radials
also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.


The earth is a big resistor. A connection to it does NOT make a
transmit antenna work better -- indeed, using earth as a return adds a
resistor in series with the antenna that burns TX power, making our
signal weaker! Radials serve as both a counterpoise -- a low
resistance return for antenna current -- AND to shield the antenna's
field from the lossy earth beneath it, also minimizing the loss of TX
power.

There's a conceptual discussion of this in slides for a talk I've done
at Pacificon, Visalia, and to several large clubs.

http://k9yc.com/160MPacificon.pdf

73, Jim K9YC





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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[jerry]

Hi Dave,


Have you actually tried one?  Mine seems to work.  I was ready to put 
out radials

also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.

 - Jerry KF6VB


On 2022-01-16 10:07, David Gilbert wrote:

That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return
losses.  They are NOT the same and they perform completely different
functions.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded 
into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and every 
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled 
in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool.  The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper 
wire.  I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the earth 
and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed a 
brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials. Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at 
the base of the antenna.


      - Jerry KF6VB


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On 2022-01-16 10:07, David Gilbert wrote:

That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return
losses.  They are NOT the same and they perform completely different
functions.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded 
into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and every 
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled 
in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool.  The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper 
wire.  I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the earth 
and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed a 
brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials. Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at 
the base of the antenna.


  - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[jerry]

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded 
into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and every 
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled 
in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool.  The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper wire. 
 I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the earth 
and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed a 
brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials.  Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at the 
base of the antenna.


      - Jerry KF6VB


On 2022-01-16 08:20, Tom & Barb Valosin wrote:

Now in my mid seventies I have embraced the idea of conservation of
energy. Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching
them in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and
it has worked well. I trim the grass.  Then I use a length of string
and stretch it out along the path of the future radial. Next I take a
"weed-wacker" and shorten the grass a bit more. Now I use any old
available can of spray paint and spray a few marks along the length of
the string. Remember to roll up the string now - no longer needed.
Then I take my radial wire, make the connection at the antenna base
and stretch the wire out along the marked path. Depending of the
levelness/evenness of the surface I then take a nail and make one wrap
of the radial around the nail, tighten the wire so it is straight with
no loops and insert the nail into the dirt. Do this along the length
of the radial. Typically I do it about every 10 to 15 feet. In a
couple of days the grass grows and the wire is so low (deeply
embedded) in the grass that mowing will not be an issue. The entire
radial system need not be done at one time and it is easy to add
radials if you wish. HINT - get a grandchild to help, or a
neighborhood youngster or a person working toward their license or one
of the younger club members or . anyone but yourself. Remember
however to compensate them for their time and effort!

Tom, WB2KLD

On 1/16/2022 9:01 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

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   21. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Steve Masticola)
   22. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (j...@kk9a.com)
   23. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave (NK7Z))


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 14:07:54 -0800
From: Paul Gordon N6LL 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Loss in window line
Message-ID: <70f2854a-8d7b-b9ef-d21f-f3890dfc0...@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Waxing about old ham lore, a "Strays" item on page 132 of the December
1946 QST has W6KA repeating advice from W3LPY and W1MJH that
"Simonizing" 300 ohm line (or using floor wax) will "eliminate the
impedance change during rainy weather."

Paul, N6LL - current Trustee of W6KA

p.s.- That would be the impedance presented to the transmitter which
changes, not the characteristic impedance of the line.

On 1/14/2022 1:22 PM, elecraft-req

Re: [Elecraft] New wattmeter plans?

[jerry]

On 2022-01-13 17:50, Josh Fiden wrote:

Bird is a classic, I keep one on out of my 6m amp. But they’re not
cheap. Comparing cost and features with an LP100A not a hard choice
IMHO.


*** Room for both.  I have a Bird 4410a.  Multiple ranges -
can measure from QRP up to 10kW.  An Ebay deal.  Don't know
how well it's calibrated, and it doesn't do peak power.

  So I just ordered an LP100A.  With the work I've been doing with 
linear amplifiers, I am very interested in accurate power readings.


 - Jerry KF6VB







73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my iPad


On Jan 13, 2022, at 5:19 PM, Bob McGraw  wrote:

Why not just buy a nice clean Bird 43P and a new element or two. Not 
hamfest elements.   That works for me and gives total confidence on 
what I see as power output.   Of course if one desires all equipment 
to match, then so be it.




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Re: [Elecraft] New wattmeter plans?

[jerry]

On 2022-01-13 15:26, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

Look at the Telepost meters:
http://www.telepostinc.com/


*** Wow.

  OK, I ordered one.

- Jerry KF6VB





John KK9A


Steve Masticola WX2S wrote:

I bought a W2 today, because my Meterbuilder MB-1 wattmeter's 
directional
coupler died and the product seems to be an orphan. But I wonder if 
Elecraft

has any plans to bring out an updated wattmeter. The W2's design is ten
years old, and the LED bargraph displays are getting a bit long in the
tooth.
Any rumors, or more than rumors?

73, -Steve WX2S

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Re: [Elecraft] Cleaning solder flux

[jerry]

On 2022-01-02 07:12, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

 About a decade ago, I
used to buy up surplus AM/ broadcast band transmitters for repurposing 
to

other countries (mainly south America) for the Christian broadcasting
markets.  Once back at my shop, the first stop was a good through power
washing in the driveway (paper and other water damaged goods removed of
course) followed by a good drying (leaf blower).  Works fine!




*** I used to do this with old radios from the flea market.  As a first 
step
to restoration, I'd blast them with the garden hose.  Then I'd set them 
on top

of a big square room-ventilation fan for a few hours.

  A Heathkit DX-40 disabused me of that notion.  Water apparently got 
into the power transformer,

and when I started up the radio, it fried.

 - Jerry KF6VB









Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ 
PJ2/K9HZ

VP2EHZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Output power being eaten

[jerry]

On 2022-01-01 13:12, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I follow the SPE Expert list and I never understood their reasoning for
running 100 watt radios at full power and relying on ALC to control the
output. I never use ALC.


*** I am building a 600W LDMOS linear.  An input of 5-8 watts gives full 
output.
The maker of the RF deck ( dxworld-e ) recommends putting a 10dB 
attenuator at the input, to get a better match to the typical 100W 
exciter and protect the LDMOS.


   I was reluctant to do it, because I'll be throwing away 10dB of gain 
and also
putting more heat inside the box.  But I do want to preserve the 
devices.  So I
ordered a 10dB resistive attenuator on Ebay - it just looks like a flat 
ceramic pack with a lead at each side, and a plate to bolt it down.  
I'll bolt it to the linear's

big heatsink.

   - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Report on cheap power supply

[jerry]

All,

  Ebay is crawling with Netgear wall warts that are rated 12V 3.5A.
They are ideal for a K2.  The connector fits, too.  I got a couple of
them at the ham swap a few years ago.  Sold to me by Mark, the CTO
of Netgear.  He would show up at every flea market in his ancient
VW bus, selling detritus from the Netgear labs.

 - Jerry KF6VB






On 2021-12-28 08:19, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

Santa Claus brought me a cheap 14 volt wall wart style power supply.
The purpose of this is to charge the K2 built-in battery.

https://smile.amazon.com/PERFEIDY-Switching-Regulated-Transformer-Interchangeable/dp/B09DSCD62C/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=14+volt+wall+wart=1638756395=8-8
<https://smile.amazon.com/PERFEIDY-Switching-Regulated-Transformer-Interchangeable/dp/B09DSCD62C/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=14+volt+wall+wart=1638756395=8-8>

The unit is made in China, and the cost is $16. The nameplate rating 
is:

Input: 100 - 240 V AC 50/60 Hz 1A
Output: 14.0 V DC  1.0 A 14.0 W

The unit comes with a selection of connector adapters of various
sizes, but the connector that is wired onto it is the right size for
the K2 power socket.

Recall that the K2 receive current requirement is in the neighborhood
of 120 - 250 mA, while the transmit current is 2.0 A or more, or
potentially somewhat less if current limit is set. So this power
supply is adequate for charging the battery, adequate for receiving,
and inadequate for transmitting.

After the battery has been fully charged (overnight) with the 14.0
volt power supply, the radio shows 13.8 V when the PS is connected,
and 12.9 V with the PS is disconnected.

With the battery discharged so that it shows 10.0 volts with the PS
disconnected, then when the PS is connected it shows 13.7 volts. This
suggests that the PS is barely able to maintain its rated voltage
output under a heavy charging load.

With the 14.0 V PS connected, I am not noticing any new noise when
receiving with an antenna mounted outside my house. I have not tried
transmitting.

A concern might be if the battery is fully charged using the 14 volt
supply, and then a conventional 13.8 volt supply is accidentally
connected with the battery turned on in the radio, then the voltage
regulator of the conventional power supply might get confused.

This power supply seems to solve two problems:

1.) Cheap, small portable power for battery charging when traveling.
2.) Higher voltage than conventional ham power supplies, which should
help battery life.

Doug, W0UHU.


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Re: [Elecraft] Simulated stereo

[jerry]

So how about a stereo effect where the position of the signal depends on 
its frequency?
Low frequencies on the left, high to the right.  A linear progression 
across

your head?

 - Jerry KF6VB


On 2021-12-25 22:59, Victor Rosenthal wrote:

I'll try that. I was also thinking some kind of reverb device could be
used to insert a variable delay on one side.

73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
CWops #5
Formerly K2VCO
https://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 26/12/2021 3:47, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 2021-12-25 6:46 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

Some of the various Heil headphones, including the one on the 
Elecraft site, have a switch that passively selects between mono and

simulated stereo by changing the phase between the two sides.


Any *Stereo* headphones can accomplish the same thing by simply adding
a DPDT switch wired to reverse the connections (invert polarity) to
one of the two ears.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2021-12-25 6:46 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:


The K3 (and I think the KX3 and K4) has a simulated stereo function
which allows you delay the audio to one channel slightly, which 
makes

signals seem to stand out from the noise. I believe that the radios
newer than the K3 also have the ability to create stereo separation 
by

pitch, which helps in picking out CW signals in QRM.

My question is: is there some kind of device that you can get that 
will
take the monaural audio from a non-Elecraft radio or a K2 and 
produce

similar effects?
-- 73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
CWops #5
Formerly K2VCO
https://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


Some of the various Heil headphones, including the one on the 
Elecraft site, have a switch that passively selects between mono and 
simulated stereo by changing the phase between the two sides. It 
basically seems to widen the perceived space of the sound source, 
possibly helpful.


Doug, W0UHU.



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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping & Tinning Enameled Wire - Fast, Easy, Reliably

[jerry]

It depends on the wire.  I have a roll of "high temperature" 16AWG that 
laughs
at my attempts.  I generally keep my station at 750, that seems to work 
OK for
the low temperature stuff.  But even with the lo-temp stuff, you have to 
be patient.


     - Jerry KF6VB



On 2021-12-24 08:25, Douglas Hagerman wrote:

How hot does the solder need to be to burn off magnet wire insulation?
I have my soldering station set to 710 degrees, and that does not seem
to be enough when I try the “blob on end of iron” method.

Doug, W0UHU.


On 24Dec, 2021, at 8:47 AM, jerry  wrote:

On 2021-12-23 20:49, SteveL wrote:

Jerry,
Years ago when I built my K2, somewhere I learned a Hakko 808
desolating tool was also an excellent enameled wire stripper and
tinning device.   The 808 has been replaced by the FR-301 but I would
expect similar results from this newer tool.  Either are stand-alone
desoldering guns with heated hollow tip and built in vacuum.


*** And there are Chinese copies available.  I got one, it works just
fine.  I never thought of using it to strip magnet wire!  Gotta go try 
that.


The spinning stripper tool works great for wire thicker than 24AWG or 
so.  But for

thin "receiver" wires it just breaks them off.

    - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping & Tinning Enameled Wire - Fast, Easy, Reliably

[jerry]

On 2021-12-23 20:49, SteveL wrote:

Jerry,
Years ago when I built my K2, somewhere I learned a Hakko 808
desolating tool was also an excellent enameled wire stripper and
tinning device.   The 808 has been replaced by the FR-301 but I would
expect similar results from this newer tool.  Either are stand-alone
desoldering guns with heated hollow tip and built in vacuum.


*** And there are Chinese copies available.  I got one, it works just
fine.  I never thought of using it to strip magnet wire!  Gotta go try 
that.


The spinning stripper tool works great for wire thicker than 24AWG or 
so.  But for

thin "receiver" wires it just breaks them off.

     - Jerry KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Remote Software?

[jerry]

Nahh, we don't need all the subspace chatter :).

- Jerry KF6VB

p.s.  Now let's see who knows their star trek :).


On 2021-12-23 11:11, Dave Fugleberg wrote:
Wayne, perhaps you could just offer a transverter for Subspace Radio as 
a

future option…
73 de W0ZF

On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 10:23 PM Wayne Burdick  
wrote:



We considered offering a faster-than-light option for the virtual-K4
software:  the EleWarp(tm). But it turned out that, thanks to supply 
chain
issues, we can’t get dilithium crystals until 2023. Until then our CW 
ops

will have to be content with full-impulse.

(Did I mention we’re also working on a DX tractor beam?)

Wayne
N6KR



elecraft.com

> On Dec 22, 2021, at 1:24 PM, Gerry Hull  wrote:
>
> 
> FB Wayne!!  Can't wait.   I hope the latency will be far better than
some (I won't mention) other radios.
> GL to the team.  Thanks for all the hard work!  Happy Holidays!
>
> Gerry Hull, W1VE  Hancock, NH USA
> CWOps #191 | YCCC | CanAm Contest Coalition | Maritime Contest Club
> RadioSport Manitoba | ARRL | RAC | QCWA
> ARCluster dxc.w1ve.com | Telnet or telnet:7373 access | RBN direct feeds
>
>
>
>> On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 4:19 PM Wayne Burdick 
wrote:
>> Hi Gerry,
>>
>> The Virtual K4 software ("VK4") is coming along. Now that we have the
digital voice recorder up and running, we're turning our attention to
streaming audio over ethernet, which is required for VK4.
>>
>> 73,
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>>
>> > On Dec 22, 2021, at 6:44 AM, Gerry Hull  wrote:
>> >
>> > I don't see anything about K4 remote software?   Is there none?  No
virtual
>> > front panel?
>> >
>> > What's the plan?
>> >
>> > Gerry Hull, *W1VE  *Hancock, NH USA
>> > CWOps #191 | YCCC | CanAm Contest Coalition | Maritime Contest Club
>> > RadioSport Manitoba | ARRL | RAC | QCWA
>> > ARCluster dxc.w1ve.com | Telnet or telnet:7373 access | RBN direct
feeds
>> > __
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>>
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