Re: [h-cost] A question on sewing fur
All I know, fake or real, try to cut fur through the skin/fabric backing only. Cut as little fur as possible. Not a ton of fun, very tedious for me. I sew for dolls and basting the fur, rather than machine sewing, also makes it a bit easier to tease up fur beaten down by seaming. Probably techniques vary depending on the density of fur and whether the fur is short, medium, or long. Also, I've had some bad results glueing fur, real or fake. Unless there is a glue for fur or piled fabrics, I'd saw don't do it. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 12:47 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] A question on sewing fur Hello the list! Does anyone have any good resources on how to sew fur? I am trying to work up a class on fur in historical costuming and although I have found a few books that cover the topic but they get mixed reviews. Many thanks! Jen/pixel/Margaret ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Silk velvet and closure of fabric sources
Silk velvet(silk and rayon)is getting harder to find, even online and I usually need to check fabric out in person. Over the past ten years, the few specialty fabric stores in my area have closed due to retirement of owners and economy. Even the one good quilting fabric store may close. The fabric and craft stores I can get to by bus are also closing or moving to locations further out west, and the new stores are smaller. I only dress dolls now in historic costumes, so thank goodness for my fabric stash I do have. And I haven't made one in over a year, but hope to start up again soon. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Chiara Francesca Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 5:45 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk velvet It may have been the one that is closed now. Gold had three shops back there at one time. Now I think someone else is renting the space and selling fabrics through there but the last time we went two of them were closed. They vary between what doors are opened and closed through the seasons. :) ♫ Chiara Francesca Which 'Chiara'...?? Nah... wasn't me ;-) -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Traci Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 11:26 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk velvet Yes, I think she meant Golden D'or. Their backroom is cheap but I haven't been able to find much there as of late. Was a goldmine when they first opened the backroom up but not so much now. I did not find my velvet there; it was from one of the little stores on Perth Street (which is a short distance away from Golden D'or). Traci On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.comwrote: You mean these guys? http://www.goldendor.com/retail_store.html Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com On 1/17/2010 5:11 PM, Chiara Francesca wrote: Silk d'Or has a private bridal shop that they put out the overflow into that little back room that has minimal lighting sometimes. That is where some of us have found the silk velvet. And I too have mine sitting in a box for um ... too many years. :D ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rings
Jewelry jump rings can be carefully bent almost closed and buttonhole stitched for lacing rings for some historic doll clothing for periods prior to the mid 1800's as doll clothing with such detail won't be regularly removed and put back on a doll not meant for play. The only trick is to choosing the right sizes of jump rings so that the stitching won't prevent the lacing hole from being too small for passage of the lacing material, yet still be in scale to the doll. Metal eyelets, I don't think came into being for clothing(especially corsets)until around the mid 1800's, maybe no sooner than the 1830's. Hooks and eyes/bars were made and used at least as early as the late 1500s and probably sooner. Alternate hooks and eyes/bars on close-fitting bodices ensures an even distribution of tension and stress, rather than the modern hooks on one side, eyes or bars on the other. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of app...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 3:11 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rings These also make wonderful lacing rings since they're solid and don't slip through the thread. Kathleen Norvell -Original Message- From: Helen Pinto helen.pi...@comcast.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Jan 11, 2010 5:56 pm Subject: [h-cost] Rings If you used jewelry findings, make sure you use jumprings which are soldered losed like the ones here: ttp://www.firemountaingems.com/search.asp?skw=jumprings+soldered+closed+ brass+18+gauge Helen/Aidan ___ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 390
Silvana: Nearly twenty years ago I was in St. Louis for a library conference and was able to visit an exibit of St. Louis dress designers 1860-1920. It was after your time period you are working on now but I have a few books with 1830's-40's dresses in them and several were remade from 18th century dresses or fabric where the fabric designs were back in fashion during this time period you are working on now. I hope to be going back to doll dressing after(hopefully)getting a cross stitch gift done for my sister and brother-in-law for Christmas. The dolls I dress are Ellowyne Wilde and the Robert Tonner Tyler Wentworth line--but I haven't made anything for a year or more due to the fact I hate pattern drafting from scratch and finally found some historical patterns fairly authentically cut that I won't have to change too much. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Silvana Siddali Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 1:03 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 390 Hello there. A bunch of us in the middle West are making 1840s gowns for a small event in a historic village near St. Louis. This is my first foray into real antebellum clothing. Initially we had hoped to make all our clothes entirely by hand, but because most of us have jobs, we're settling for sewing the long seams by machine all visible seams by hand. This is an adventure. Silvana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi gown - Hunnisett
Think of high fashion in about all time periods as suffering for one's social class, whether the total ensemble is heavy(think of it as weight-lifting), constricting(you can't eat, breathe, or hardly move, or move in relative comfort in only a certain way), or revealing(better have or create the body type to wear said ensemble )or all three put together. Keira Knightly said the high-plumed wig complete she wore in the Duchess alone was around 10 pounds. That's why if you could afford to wear such gear, you had to have servants! Today it is fashion that demands a size of no more than 2 and the ability to tetter along in four inch heels and do it all without servants(unless you are filthy rich). I thought this dress demanded a very fine, rather lightweight material in order to make the pleating work. A good rabbit fur should work--most sumputuary laws wouldn't even permit rabbit fur on clothing for those below a certain rank and or income and surprisingly the lower orders couldn't even legally trim clothing with bunny, let alone line a winter cloak. Apparently, you could catch Mr or Mrs Bunny, eat either, but you better sell the pelts to your betters on the social scale. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 2:21 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Arnolfi gown - Hunnisett I have this book and have looked at it for reference. I am fiddling right now with the box pleat decorations...wish me luck! I wonder how many deep there are. That sleeve looks wicked heavy and the wool I have, though fine, is heavy already. Sg From: viv.watk...@virgin.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 18:46:58 + Subject: Re: [h-cost] What kind of fur would you use for this? I looked up Jean Hunnisett because I remember her saying she had made the Arnolfini dress. She includes the dress in Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Medieval - 1500 but doesn't say what fur she used. You might be interested in her comments, bearing in mind (as she always said) that her costumes are for stage and TV. Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1
Yes, Poiret was conscripted, but heck every man with four sound limbs between 18 and 50 was drafted for something during WWI. Don't know if his designs were used, but if I remember correctly, his official capacity was to redesign French soldiers uniforms. If I recall, most designers didn't close shop the second war was declared in August 1914. Many houses stayed open until the spring of 1915 and somewhat beyond. A good number of designers followed their clientele to unoccupied southern France(the then new designer Gabrielle Chanel, among them), England and USA if they didn't remain in Paris. Vogue and other fashion magazines continued to carry their designs, especially those done for the theatre and those clients lucky and rich enough to have seaside and homes elsewhere well out of reach of any troop action by ground, sea, or air. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Agnes Gawne Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 1:11 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1 Penny - I understood that Poiret was conscripted into the French Army during the great war as well. I don't have a reference for that but I think it was the French language monograph of his work. I don't have any original magazines from the period but I just re-read Jean Phillippe Worth's A Century of Fashion . It is a funny little book from about 1928 and talks mostly about his memories of the elegant clients of the House of Worth but towards the end of the book he does talk about how difficult it was to get good silks once the war started and continuing on into the 1920s. It's not much help except to document that the House of Worth was there and Jean Phillippe Worth (Charles Frederich Worth's son) was the main coutourier. Agnes Original message: Message: 3 Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:52:55 -0500 From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com Subject: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1 To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Message-ID: 016baf8c4dda46aa8378143abb705...@gallerylapy Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 What happened to European design houses during World War I. I have read that the Parisian design houses closed during the war. Did their businesses move to other locations? If so, where? I know Jean Patou was a new designer before the war. He closed his house and served in the war. What happened to the other designers? I searched through my entire collection of L'Art et la Mode magazines from 1914-1919. L'Art was a Parisian high-fashion magazine. Designers were not in the magazine until 1919, and then there were only a few. The major fashion illustrators presented renderings of fashions to the magazine. I wonder where the illustrators were drawing their inspirations for the fashions. Can other h-costumers who have European fashion magazines please check the WW1 time frame check for designers. How long was it until the design houses were functional after the war? I have a U.S. fashion industry trade magazine/journal from 1918. The journal is devoted to preparing the industry for gearing up the businesses and factories up for the end of the war. I am looking at actual period publications that have documented the designers in business at the time frame. I have documented the following designers. Some where Paris-based designers but I don't know where their businesses were based during the war. I am wondering if the designers contracted other businesses to produce their designs. From 1916 Harry Angelo Catalog Designers: This catalog was published in NYC and Paris http://www.costumegallery.com/1916/Christy/ . Agnes, Beer, Alice Bernard, Bulloz, Georges Doeuillet, Drecoll, Dumay, Georgette, Jenny (Jeanne Adele Bernard), Charles Klein, Martial Armand, Monge, Paquin, and Premet. From 1916 Harper's Bazar Designers: Bendal, Alice Bernard, Callot Soeurs, Carroll, Doucet, Lady Duff Gordon, Fanny, Hickson, Charles Klein, McNally, Premet, Redfern, and Tappe. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1
I did see that Chanel movie. But I'm not sure of that whole Poiret and Chanel meeting at a beach resort during the war. I'll have to check if the Chanel biog I recall reading that Chanel was one of the designers that didn't remain in Paris during the war, has ever made it back to my local public library--last time I went back to consult it, it was lost. While Chanel gets most, if not all of the historical credit for the real invention of casual clothes and the little black dress, I recall that at least one biographer pointed out(probably that same lost book), that Chanel's supposedly revolutionary simple look really evolved from her own time in a convent--the simple basic uniforms and her own working class background(every woman had or wanted a basic black dress for Sundays and best wear as a mark of respectability and social standing). A black dress was a wardrobe basic long before Chanel was even born and a given as part of a bridal trousseau. Shop girls in both Paris and England wore modest black dresses, usually in silk or a silk blend as a required uniform, and an expensive uniform it could be, as the cheaper silks these workers could afford often shredded under the stress of wear and the strong mordants in black dyes, necessitating skilled mending and frequent replacement. I've also seen pictures of young British women and some of the earliest female silent film stars, before and during WWI, wearing the shorter skirts, lots of tweed and wool and sweaters, well before Chanel debuted in fashion magazines. If anything, Chanel was the first designer strongly influenced by what we call street wear today, I think. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 2:57 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1 Cindy, Thank you for mentioning Vogue. I have a bound volume of Vogue July-Sept. 1919. I forgot I had it. I pulled it out and I had bookmarked all the designers from then. There are several. I will record them tonight. I am documenting the designers, illustrators, fashion photographers, and milliners from 1890s-1920s on an Excel spreadsheets. One day it will go online. This is not a reliable source, put in the Chanel movie, Chanel and Poiret was at a beach resort during the war. That was when she turned from milliner to dress designer. Can anyone confirm this? I really have not been a fan of Chanel, so I haven't studied her. The only things I have studied is the rivalry between Chanel and Patou and their marketing strategies. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold book shipping
Ok, it is $50, but just got word that my order of Janet Arnold, Vol 4 is shipping soon from amazon.com so they should have copies in stock Cindy Abel h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance!
Well, it is $49.95 at Amazon.com, and wait is 2-4 wks, so don't know if I'll get it soon if at all, but ordered it anyway. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of cahuff Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 5:03 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance! Wahooo! Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today G And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American G Happy Happy happy TA Carol--now to await the mails... -- Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Has Amazon.com gone insane?
Might be a glitch in their selections. Maybe someone in the Hogfather wears a corset or someone that ordered BoCB also ordered the Hogfather! Who knows? Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Onaree Berard Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 8:39 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Has Amazon.com gone insane? I've received a gift certificate so I was looking in their Recommended for You and they suggested as as I've purchased The Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners that they suggested the DVD The Hogfather. Is it just me or is The Hogfather the last thing that comes to mind when building a corset? Onaree -- Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
People are still sewing in my neck of the woods, but a lot more careful about waiting for sales. They are also concerned about fabric quality, esp thread count among quilters. I think it is tied in more with the economy--most people have been losing spending power in dollars earned for a long time(hence Walmart, etc) and now the chickens have come home to roost, so to speak. Fabric retailers are more and more owned by big conglomerates that are more concerned with bottom line profits. Consumers are buying a lot fewer clothes and I've seen more than one back-to-school shopping kid throw a temper tantrum because Mom and Dad are now shopping Payless shoes and Target(where I buy my own shoes and have for a long time), instead of buying them expensive name-brand shoes. Of course, I still see a lot of older kids buying multiple pairs of Nike's or whatever(and wonder where the money comes from!) Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 9:58 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics PS But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response. And I will be writing, too. Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying attention. I was with a group of true believers last weekend, and, while we were all lamenting the disappearance of fabric stores, we agreed it is because folks aren't sewing anymore--which is just what Walmart told you. Ann Wass **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0005000 017 ) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing
The polyester probably saves on ironing, but a heavy cotton twill or at least a cotton poly blend would be cooler. And polyester is still heck to get stains out of, unless it is stain resistant, but then it won't breathe. Cut of the cloth, if boxy, would naturally stand away from the body and be cooler in summer and warmer in winter(know this personally), as well. Skirt hems can be weighted with lead or wood to preserve modestly in windy conditions. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of monica spence Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 11:31 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing FLDS? Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jodi Nelson Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly. The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but nobody owns anything. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
I saw the traveling exhibition of Princess Diana's clothing several years ago(it came to Omaha!) and noted on all the long-sleeved garments that the sleeves were two-piece and the seams all matched up. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 1:04 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves It´s a modern jacket? From what I´ve learned, in modern custom-made clothing it´s rather coincidence whether the seams match or not. It´s just a design issue. Industrially made garments often have them because they use mock-ups until they achieve matching seams. Hanna At 00:50 06.06.2008, you wrote: This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list. If anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link. My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself. Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them. I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess seams that end at the armhole. I really can't adjust the front seam downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front sleeve seam. The back seams don't match either but I've frequently garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the front but they match on the opposite side. I know 2 piece sleeves are often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd see where you all stand on this issue. Do you really think the seams need to match on either the front or the back? Sylvia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?
I have a full page picture of this dress in one of my costume books at home. Queen Victoria wore it to a court costume ball. I think Prince Albert was dressed as Charles II and she was Catherine of Branzaga. At another ball, Albert went as Edward III and she was his consort Phillipa. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Aylwen Garden Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 11:47 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume? Hi, I'm the ball organiser and probably the one with the reputation for historical accuracy. I don't push this line too much at these events so thats not a problem. The dress has a straight waistband, not on the waist. Elizabeth, you are horrible! You should never have shown me that picture at http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=restora tionx=12y=13object=74860row=36 !!! Now I really want to make that dress, and this attempt to keep my life slightly saner than usual has just been thrown out the window! At least, in the event of me not taking this plunge, I might just try to add some Dutch elements over the dress. Cheers, and thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Coifs
The book The Tudor Tailor has scale patterns for coifs, both for men and women. There are also patterns and detailed instructions for English and French hoods, bongraces, caps and more. Hope this helps. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:35 AM To: Historic Costume List Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Coifs Just back from a particularly exhilarating (and exhausting) Kalamazoo and catching up on a huge pile of e-mails. One correspondent writes to me that she needs to make an Elizabethan coif for an SCA peerage ceremony. No idea yet if it's for male or female, but I'm guessing female. She asks if I can point her to patterns or instructions. This is out of my area -- can anyone offer a suggestion? If there's a web resource somewhere that would be great. Thanks! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Simplicity new Civil War patterns
Lynn: I thought the waist position on the pattern illustrated by the yellow ballgown was odd, too. But I would check photographs and fashion plates of the era both. I couldn't say either way, since the Civil War isn't my era of expertise. I would trust photographic evidence more than fashion plates. Few women could look as good in the fashions as shown in the fashion plates. See photographs of Mary Todd Lincoln during her years as First Lady as an example and also Queen Victoria before Prince Albert's death Older women would cling to the styles of their youth or adapt newer styles to what was comfortable for them. A waistline set at least lower in front would appear more slimming to all figure types and the smaller the waist, the more attractive the figure, even today. In my very limited knowledge the round waist, often with sash, seems to have been more prevalent in the late 1820's to mid 1830's than the early-mid 1860's. Even for women who could afford the latest styles as shown in Godey's Ladies Magazine could be not as up-to-date as their European counterparts as Godey's and other American publications published plates of the latest fashions months or as much as a year later than European magazines because of the perceived view of American women as being more conservative, or less concerned with changes in fashion. A good American or English woman was not supposed to be as fascinated with fashion as their more frivolous European(read French)counterpart. And in reality, the average Frenchwoman considered nouveau riche English and Americans far more concerned with Dame Fashion than she was. Bottom line was that few women could actually afford couture from the top designers in France, probably even less than today. After 1860, however, the waistline was preparing to drop into the eventual princess-cut of the 1870's. Cutting waistlines lower in front than back, apron-like overskirts and drapes, and tabbed extensions below the fitted and/or belted waistline were more common as the crinolined skirt started to change from the all-around bell shape to more fullness in back after 1860. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lynn Downward Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 11:17 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity new Civil War patterns Vicky Simpson asked if they have the correct period look. It's really hard to say, Vicky, when you're looking at a tiny picture on a computer screen. However, the waist seam on the day dress is lower than the natural waist and I made a mental note to check position on all the other seams too. I haven't seen any photographs of Victorian/Civil Way era dresses with a waist lower than a natural waist, although earlier in the period the waist was shorter. I say all that, but I don't believe that I'm the be-all to end-all in the research world. I'm sure someone else will be able to give more information. LynnD On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 5:27 AM, Sharon Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Oh yummy... 2887 done in grey silk taffeta with gold silk cuffs and trims would be scrumptious for a Confederate cavalry officer's lady, now wouldn't it?? :) Yes, I'll be shopping come sale time tomorrow :) Thanks for posting the simplicity link! Sharon/Meli Virginia girl by inclination and carpetbag :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Simplicity new Civil War patterns
Thanks for the link to Kay's site!! Yum Yum! See this link on Kay's site: http://www.originals-by-kay.com/custom%20work%20studio/galleryballg.htm It may be the dress shown on the front of the Simplicity yellow ball gown, I bet. I have Frances Grimble's Reconstruction Era Fashions that shows bodices and skirts from Harper's Bazaar patterns much like this gown. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 12:26 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity new Civil War patterns On Wed 08/04/30 13:35 , Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent: Can anyone give me a date for these new patterns other than Civil War era? Has anyone tracked down the fashion plates that inspired these to give a more specific year? A post on another list indicated the patterns by Kay Gnagey are taken from drafts in Der Bazar. I'm also interested in dating the previous sets of Simplicity patterns, if there's someone who can provide better knowledge of the period. Why not contact the designers and ask? Martha McCain is a member of this list. A summary of some of her research for her men's patterns, including photos of the original garments, is posted on Simplicity's web site. I've found her designs to be very accurate for the Civil War era. It's unfortunate Simplicity did not use her excellent instructions. Simplicity should be able to provide contact information for the other designer(s). Someone said the men's pattern looked 1880's. How can you tell? To me it looks a lot like the previous set of men's civil war patterns. The new men's pattern by Buckaroo Bobbins seems to be rather generic - combining details from several decades to create an impression. Looking at the information on the web site, I can see significant differences between it and the earlier patterns by Martha McCain, which are very accurate for the era. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 6-9, 2008 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen
Oh, thanks so much. I will probably pre-order it as soon as I see it on Amazon Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 1:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen I just got this note in: The publisher is Macmillan and the publication date is 7th November 2008. I think it will be on Amazon for pre-orders soon, Regards, Jenny Tiramani Beth At 12:23 PM 4/30/2008, you wrote: Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 03:35:30 -0700 From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] Several people from here in AnTir (SCA Kingdom including the Pacific Northwest/Northwet of the United States) intend to go to its unveiling in Florence, Italy in September. The book has been long in the making. To the point where many of us have gotten tired of the wait and worried about the possible demise of both the editors and picked up the various small papers by Inter Library Loan. Even so, I have orders for one or more of my friends who are going to get me one too. (Friends because I'm so envious I can barely stand it but neither can my finances! Wanda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen
Santa better load up a separate sleigh for all those costumers and Arnold fans who are going to be very, very good this year!! I also finally broke down and ordered Patterns of Fashion vol 2 from a amazon.com seller since my local library's copy was apparently permanently liberated from its collection(along with volume 2 of Jean Hunnisett's Period Costume for Stage and Screen.). May the costume gods and goddesses do their wills upon the liberator. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 3:06 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen Ooo. I know what I'm wantin' for Christmas. Thanks! Liadain Anticipatin' THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 11:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen I just got this note in: The publisher is Macmillan and the publication date is 7th November 2008. I think it will be on Amazon for pre-orders soon, Regards, Jenny Tiramani Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Simplicity new Civil War patterns
The Simplicity website may not have been updated yet. The dress patterns are 2881 and 2887. The chemise, corset and drawers pattern is 2890. Very often, McCalls, Butterick, Vogue, and Simplicity new pattern books and patterns are available at major fabric stores before the websites get updated. Look for the Summer Simplicity book. My local JoAnn's in Omaha, NE had it, so others must too. There is also a men's c1880's gambler, Wild West, whatever pattern, maybe inspired by the movie There Will be Blood or HBO series Deadwood. I was kind of disappointed that there were no new patterns for circa 1300-1800, with summer RenFaires. Hoping the Martha McCain 18th century patterns(last I heard, she was researching them as Simplicity supposedly thought the Civil War period was done). Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lynn Downward Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 12:32 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity new Civil War patterns Cynthia, Which two patterns are you talking about as the new ones? I was on the Simplicity website and didn't see anything new, even under the New Items that I hadn't seen before. Help please! Thanks, Lynn On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 10:08 AM, Vicky Simpson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I didn't know that there were new ones out, or I would have been at Joann's too. Guess I'll have to wait until the next pattern sale as I love the green one. I'm starting on my first civil war era dress today, Simplicity 3727. Wish me luck. Vicky Cynthia [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Simplicity summer catalog is out at my local Joann's so I snagged the two new Civil War gown patterns, and the chemise, drawers and corset pattern at the Thurs-Sat $1.99 pattern sale. The gowns are rather dressy. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume You can find me at http://360.yahoo.com/vickycoleen2007 or www.southerngracedesigns.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Simplicity new Civil War patterns
Simplicity summer catalog is out at my local Joann's so I snagged the two new Civil War gown patterns, and the chemise, drawers and corset pattern at the Thurs-Sat $1.99 pattern sale. The gowns are rather dressy. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!!!!!
The new Civil War era pattern numbers from Simplicity are 2881, 2887 and 2890. Does anyone on the list know if Martha McCain is going to have new patterns for Simplicity. Last I heard, she was working on 18th century patterns. Is that correct? Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of monica spence Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 5:23 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please! I know nothing about them. Thanks for the links! Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kass McGann Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 6:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please! Hi Monica, Thanks for the warm welcome! Can we talk about flat-bottomed armholes? I'm totally on about flat-bottomed armholes. Kass http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/ Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list? Try a RH Gift Certificate http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=c=123d=160e=f=g=; w=21 q=1p=360r=Y . They never expire! http://reconstructinghistory.com http://community.livejournal.com/rh_community/ http://kass-rants.livejournal.com http://www.reconstructinghistory.blogspot.com/ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of monica spence Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 6:00 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] New Topics-- please! Hello Ladies and Gentlemen, Anyone want to talk about costume and clothing? Hi Kass-- Nice to see you here! Anyone have any recommendations for costume in and around Florence? I am thinking of side trips for the Janet Arnold Conference in November. Monica Spence ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mid/Lower Class Womens Clothing - 1650
You can also use Hollar's engravings as a source. While most are from the 1640's, fashionable styles took decades to trickle down from nobility to the servant class. Servants in London and other cities had more exposure and opportunity to the newest fashions than servants in the country. And even the wealthier people in the country were more apt to keep to older fashions and newer fashions more adapted to everyday wear. As far as Anne Bonny and Mary Read, most fairly comprehensive books on the history of pirates picture them as artists imagined them, not from life. If they were mistaken as men, they probably dressed as men of the times and wore their hair the same. Very long hair would have been most impractical for a life at sea, so those surviving artist renditions picturing both with long hair and breasts half exposed was probably not the actuality. In Anne and Mary's time, the mantua, which was less contricting in shape than previous fashionable gowns, was being replaced by a sacque or even looser gowns with various names, all which could be worn with no, or more comfortable fitting stays for less than formal wear. Few mantuas or sacques survive in their original form today as the fabric could be easily picked apart and remade into newer styles, curtains, or cushion covers. Also the terms pirate and privateer depended on what side you were on. Francis Drake was a brave, heroic privateer in the English view, while Spain, naturally, branded him a brutal pirate. Hope this helps Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 11:29 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mid/Lower Class Womens Clothing - 1650 Look for Marcellus Laroon's Street Cries prints. There is a book by Sean Shesgreen that has them, _The Criers and Hawkers of London: Engravings and Drawings_. They are more 1690 - 1710. Good clothing, as well as baskets, etc. -Carol I was wondering if anyone here could point me towards paintings or drawings of middle or lower class women from any time between 1650 and 1750. A friends daughter is wanting 'real' pirate clothing. :0) I can find upper class garments reasonably easy, but I thought this might be the better place to start. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT Re: Regional accents, was Making history hip
No, you are explaining it very well. Although mass communication is affecting regional accents in the world, and not always postively in my small opinion, isolated areas in Britain and the U.S. can still understand each other better than most citizens living in Britain and the US can. I had a professor in college that would read passages from Shakespeare and Chaucer as closely as was known then to original pronunciation, and I found it fascinating to hear what sounded like French and Scottish words within early modern English. We also read some passages ourselves reprinted from the oldest surviving source aloud after being told to start by pronouncing the words as they were spelled. Of course, the caveat was that we were also told that we might be closer to how the typesetter pronounced the words, rather than Chaucer or Shakespeare. I fear we are losing a lot of expression within languages through the present mass-media homogenization. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Exstock Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 1:36 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Re: Regional accents, was Making history hip - Original Message - From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner [EMAIL PROTECTED] ... And a friend who works at the stage supply company says she can always recognize one particular community- theater box office tape on the phone because the speaker has a phony British accent, which people seem to equate with being artistes! (No offense intended to any true Brits out there who ARE artistes, or to Cockneys who ARE refined!) Reminds me of a favorite line from some movie I can't think of: Is she British, or just affected? The whole topic, though, reminds me of something that I love to research when I have a spare second: the development of the American (and British) accent. I always wondered what, for example, people like Benjamin Franklin actually sounded like when they talked. I mean, it would make sense that their accents would be a lot closer to modern British than modern American, right? As it turns out, no, but not the other way round, either. If anyone in the 18th century sounded like anyone in the 21st century, it was the 18thC Brits; they sounded like 21st century Americans. Apparently the Brits had this thing for following linguistic fashions, which the Americans largely ignored, leaving regional British accents almost intact in the associated American regions. (Although we did finally follow suit and rid ourselves of that whole thing where the a in father sounded like the a in modern-American-accent apple, though. Whew.) OK, completely off topic, and I'm explaining it poorly anyway! -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip
Sometimes it is difficult to pick up accents and how people will react. My Dad was born and raised in New York State. The accent there is quite different than the Bronx, for example. Twenty years in the Air Force and thirty years in Nebraska erased his NYS accent--he and two of his sisters sounded quite different to me as a teenager from my two aunts that remained in their home state. Eighteen years in northern Arkansas, gave he and my Mom a bit of Arkansas/southern Missouri twang, but not much. Mom was raised in western Iowa, but she and I pronounced drama and wash differently. I say dra-ma and wash; she said warsh and draama. Both are correct for each state, but we argued a lot about it. When I went to school in Minneapolis, MN, I was teased for a Nebraska accent. What is interesting is that language experts are making a lot of discoveries of simularities between some area accents in Britain and some American accents, usually in rural areas. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rickard, Patty Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:10 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip Or from Pittsburgh, y'uns. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Candace Perry Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:27 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip Well, if someone is PA Dutch or from Western PA or from South Philadelphia, you should be able to tell, youse guys! KY and TN sound very different from TX. Candace Perry Bally, PA -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dianne Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:07 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip Trust an American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney accents! I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a Londoner, but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield. Can you tell the difference between a Michigan accent and a Pennsylvania accent? How about Kentucky and Texas? Dianne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] John Adams HBO series
It could have been a way to show the differences between patriotic Americans versus Tories, British and French to the audience,(serious Americans vs frivolous everyone else) even though this probably didn't exist. Could also have been a cost-cutting measure as well as an artistic decision, because plain, neutral costumes take less time to make. See the film Man of All Seasons from the '60's when the interpretation of costume equalled drab for all but the highest nobility. Plain, sad-colored costumes would also keep the audience's attention on the actor's faces, not fixated on a beautiful print gown or a wonderfully embroidered waistcoat(darn!). Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 3:48 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] John Adams HBO series In a message dated 4/1/2008 11:29:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: All the costumes are unnaturally drab and dull, and very plain. There's no embroidery, no color, and no texture to anything. *** This may be a reaction to Gilbert Stuart and the pallet of his paintings. That seems just like something an art director would do. **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15ncid=aol hom000301) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls
Bjarne: I searched for ball jointed dolls+groups on Yahoo and there are several groups as well. Check out: www.denofangels.com for lots of information on BJDs. U.S. Doll magazines Haute Doll and FDQ carry lots of info on BJD's as well. She isn't exactly a BJD, but I started collecting(if two dolls is collecting}a multi-jointed doll called Momoko. She is 1/6 scale and 10 1/2 tall. A dainty 5'3 in comparison to Barbie's more substantial U.S. beef fed 5'9 in real scale. Originally Japanese made, she is now produced in China, which has cut her price 1/3 - 1/2 of the Japan Petworks dolls, and increased production numbers. Volks dolls in Japan is the Holy Grail of most BJD fans--you can have a doll custom made for about $700 and up in U.S. dolls. There is also a U.S. showroom and production center in California. Hope this helps!! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 10:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls As some of you had these dolls, my question is: Are there any groups you can join to talk about these dolls? Thanks in advance Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
I remember one of my doll magazines featuring a maker of 18th style wooden dolls. But they don't come cheap--I think they were maybe $400 undressed and $750 up dressed. Theriault's sold some exclusives, but I don't get their catalog anymore. I believe they still have an online store. While I love the BJD's and covet at least one in my lifetime, it won't happen without a lottery. Volks Super Dollfie now has a factory store in L.A., which if one has the $$, you can have a doll made from start to finish per your specs from their full-choice system. Cindy Abel. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 11:55 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes. Does anyone make a doll that is similar to a real 18th century fashion doll...y'know, carved of wood, painted with enamel, kinda quaintly crude? **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aol hom000301) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
She isn't exactly ball-jointed, but I just got a little 10 1/2 doll named Momoko that I've wanted for years. I got her from Cherished Friends for $109.00 including shipping. She is a Japanese creation now manufactured in China. She is 1/6 human scale, but that works out to about 5'3, rather than Barbie's 5'9 She reminds me of Francie(Barbie's Modern Cousin from the mid-60's)and has a more realistic skin tone than most U.S. dolls who appear to live at the tanning parlor or who are addicted to all-over spray tanning. Tonner Company Store has a new Ultra Basic Tyler(16)in three hair colors for $50+shipping. Tonner also makes 22 American Model dolls that sell for around $100 for a basic doll, if you can find one as Tonner produces them in limited editions of 300-500 for basic and dressed dolls. Doll manufactures are starting to cut back on doll lines and production numbers, in view of the present economy so an American Model might be more difficult to get. I managed to finally snag a basic doll last year. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 18 century dolls by Peter Wolf
Thank you Albert! I knew this was the artist I was thinking of. These are all handmade and probably better than the original dolls. I just love that the outfits are made from fabric scraps(or appear to be), just like many surviving originals. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 3:44 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 18 century dolls by Peter Wolf Here are links to the other 18th century fashion type dolls made by Peter Wolf on the web site. These are great fun! _http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-312.jpg_ (http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-312.jpg) _http://dollmasters.com/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=2094_ (http://dollmasters.com/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=2094) _http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-387.jpg_ (http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-387.jpg) _http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-386.jpg_ (http://dollmasters.com/images/SD-386.jpg) **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aol hom000301) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Best overview in a fairly short form and has scale patterns to boot is The Tudor Tailor This covers Tudor and Elizabethan eras. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:13 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, Robin Netherton wrote: Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote: We're going for just a general overview, designed to make people maybe think first before they say I know they wore X, it's in all the pictures! ... we plan to touch on pretty much everything Robin mentions--it will be a challenge to keep it down to an hour. So what lucky group will get the benefit of this class, and when? It sounds like a useful service. I hope once it's developed, you'll be able to re-use it for other groups. --Robin SCA, initially, at the end of March. And then it might be a paper article or a web article, we're not sure. Jen/pixel/Margaret ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Origin of velvet
Yes, it does have a complicated answer. Scholars are still debating it. Try this website: http://www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/Hst-of-Velvet-art.html for a mention of velvet as early as 948 AD in Moorish Spain. But it might have existed on Constantinople earlier, but silk velvet doesn't seem to have been known in Europe before the 12th century. Hope this helps! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 4:10 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Origin of velvet Okay, I know this is going to be one of those simple questions with a complicated answer, but I was just curious about when and where velvet was invented? Specifically, would velvet or something similar have been available, even to the very rich, in Constantinople around 800 AD? If not, when and where do we first have evidence of it? This is for a story I'm writing rather than a costume I'm building, so any information would be useful. Thanks for your collective wisdom and generosity! Tea Rose More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
Thanks for the link. This is a simple in shape, but effective look. I haven't been able to attend the Eastern Nebraska/Western Iowa Renfaire for the last couple of years, but there was a group in Tartar(our Middle Ages era)costume, complete with weaponry, the last time I was there. With the Northern Europe and Germanic ancestries of many Nebraskans and Iowans, I'm surprised not more attendees choose their own ancestral costumes. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 2:07 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2 list. Here is an image of her reconstruction: see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48 http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825 Beth At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote: Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 + From: Linda Walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group members:- Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than previously believed. ... When the area around Lake Mälaren was Christianized about a century later, women's dress style became more modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson. It's from The Local - Sweden's News in English http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/ What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction! Linda Walton, (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest
Thanks for the theses list. I do interlibrary loan and getting a thesis loan from another library is about a 10%-25% success rate at best. Dissertation Abstracts International is the best source to actually purchase a copy, but there are many theses that simply aren't available, especially anything older than ten years. And they aren't cheap. I purchased a bound two volume thesis about 25+ years ago I badly needed for a paper and it was $30 then. No, it wasn't historic costume related, but I still have it(Like this cost me a whole $30 and I had to eat peanut butter sandwiches for lunch for a month to make up the cost of it and the rest of my interlibrary loans for the stupid paper which I did snag an A for anyway!). Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 10:01 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest While I was browsing the British Library's Integrated Catalogue (using the search terms costume thesis), I ran across the following of interest. After several years of trying to interlibrary loan British theses and dissertations from every library in the state (universities and my local), I have given up and started to selectively purchase them (usually not TOO expensive as microform.. except those from Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can comment on them? Thanks, Beth Matney Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland 1406-1460.. University of London, 1987.. DX189880 http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-19633?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=10format=999 Ege, Ufuk.: Costume in Chaucer's works with special reference to the visual history of costume in his era.. University of Lancaster, 1993.. DX228822 http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-78349?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=08format=999 Lewin, Agathe. Durer and costume : a study of the dress in some of Durer's paintings and drawings / (London : University of London, 1992.) thesis DX231935 2 v. : ill. (some col.), ports. (some col.) ; 33 cm. http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-63366?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=11format=999 Sigüenza Pelarda, Cristina, La moda en el vestir en la pintura gótica aragonesa / (Zaragoza [Spain] : Institución Fernando el Católico, Excma. Diputación de Zaragoza, 2000.) YF.2005.a.9837 (ISBN 8478205764) 257 p. : col. ill. ; 21 cm. Originally presented as the author's thesis, Universidad de Zaragoza, 1997. Includes bibliographical references (p. 183-190) and index. http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-61578?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=18format=999 Brieske, Vera. Schmuck und Trachtbestandteile des Graberfeldes von Liebenau, Kr. Nienburg/Weser : vergleichende Studien zur Gesellschaft der fruhmittelalterlichen Sachsen im Spannungsfeld zwischen Nord und Sud / (Oldenburg : Isensee, 2001.) X.0425/198(5,6) (ISBN 3895987484 (pbk.)) 386 p. : ill., maps ; 30 cm. Originally presented as the author's thesis_Universitat Munster, 1998. Includes bibliographical references. http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-51792?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=23format=999 While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest: The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) 249 leaves : ill ; 30 cm Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule Library Theses Th5157 OCLC: 62355641 also in King's College London - Courtauld Institute of Art Library ; Theses K4708 HAR ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question
Yes, there are photo sources that show people costumed in what we would consider bad 18th century costume, especially the women. There was a great interest in American history at this time, and it probably helped spur the restoration of Williamsburg to its colonial roots. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Katy Bishop Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 7:45 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question Years ago I came across a costume in an antique store, a pitiful little cheap cotton dress, looking like 1920s or 1930s cloth and basic design, done in pseudo-18th century style. The makers label said it was a George Washington bicentennial dress. I have since regretted not having bought it. Katy On Feb 5, 2008 4:59 PM, Janet Newton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How about a ball in honor of George Washington's birthday - The original version of the holiday was in commemoration of George Washington's birthday in 1796 (the last full year of his presidency). Washington, according to the calendar that has been used since at least the mid-18th century, was born on February 22, 1732. According to the old style calendar in use back then, however, he was born on February 11. At least in 1796, many Americans celebrated his birthday on the 22nd while others marked the occasion on the 11th instead. By the early 19th century, Washington's Birthday had taken firm root in the American experience as a bona fide national holiday. Its traditions included Birthnight Balls in various regions, speeches and receptions given by prominent public figures, and a lot of revelry in taverns throughout the land. Then along came Abraham Lincoln, another revered president and fellow February baby (born on the 12th of the month). The first formal observance of his birthday took place in 1865, the year after his assassination, when both houses of Congress gathered for a memorial address. While Lincoln's Birthday did not become a federal holiday like George Washington's, it did become a legal holiday in several states. - Original Message - From: Agnes Gawne [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question My brother sent me a question about fashion in 1867 - specifically regarding a ball in Washington DC. Do any of you have any idea why an 1867 woman would powder her hair or wear a blue ribbon around her neck? Here is the original quote. It's taken from the letters of John Hay. He was Abraham Lincoln's private secretary all during the Lincoln administration and then got sent to France as a diplomatic attache during the Johnson administration. He wrote about the ball in DC in February 1867 when he'd just returned from Paris. begin quote: February 11. Mrs. Sprague gave a beautiful ball. The ladies who danced the Cotillon, and many who did not, had their hair powdered a la marquise. I have never seen so beautiful and picturesque a roomful. Some of the most striking were the Hostess herself (with whom I danced), the Hoyts, Miss Romain Goddard, Miss Haggerty, and Mrs. Banks, who was very correctly dressed, even to the extend of the blue ribbon around the neck, a little refinement in which she was alone -- Miss Kinzie, a fresh Western beauty and a superb danseuse. Mrs. Sumner and Miss Hooper, though not powdered, were beautifully dressed. :end quote I have my theories but I don't want to influence any of your answers as they are just theories. Thanks, Agnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Spanish flu
Despite its name: The Spanish influenza or Spanish Lady, modern researchers think the 1918-1919 flu pandemic began somewhere in Asia and it was of swine origin and a new or very long dormant mutation. Like the sweating sickness, it could kill its victims rapidly, although not as fast as the late medieval outbreaks of merry at dinner, dead by supper strains. While most flu pandemics have higher mortality rates among the very young and the very old, the 1918-19 outbreak seemed to find its more vulnerable victims in the 18-40 age group. Some researchers theorize that a late 1890's and a circa 1902 flu outbreaks might have confered some kind of immunity to the older sector of the population who survived one or both. Another theory is that many in the 18-40 age group in Europe were soldiers and war-workers whose immune systems were under especial strain. We don't know enough about the sweating sickness, but it too seemed to have many young and middle-aged adults among its victims and it isn't too much of a stretch for us to think that it might have been a very rapid, very virilent influenza strain. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hilary Davidson Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 2:25 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Spanish flu The Spanish influenza pandemic killed at least 20 million people worldwide after world war I, even in isolated corners, and some estimates put it as high as 100 million. It was the worst mass illness since the Black Death. A friend who does research on malaria once told me it originated in Europe, which was a surprise because I'd always thought it was tropical. Apparently it was unknown in tropical areas until European settlers reached there. He also said that it's looking like wormwood - active ingredient in absinthe - is as effective as quinine for easing attacks. But I'm not sure what his sources are. Interesting. My daughter mentioned malaria but I told her it couldn't be = that because it's tropical. Cholera was mentioned as well. I was = thinking along the lines of the horrible influenza in the U.S. in = 19...teens that killed so many. Wasn't it called the Spanish Influenza? Not just in the US - my father's uncle, a Derbyshire vicar, died of it in = 1918 after taking many other victims' funerals, and it was widespread on = the European continent. I think malaria (ague) and cholera were recognised diseases in the 16th = century, so the sweating sickness must have been something different. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Spanish flu
Thanks, Dawn! That would also explain why so many of the victims of the sweating sickness died rapidly. The immune system, sent into overdrive, would produce such a rapid fever and profuse sweating that even modern medical care might be taxed just to replace the fluids and nutrients lost through sweating, let alone treating the flu itself. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:41 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Spanish flu the 1918-19 outbreak seemed to find its more vulnerable victims in the 18-40 age group. Some researchers theorize that a late 1890's and a circa 1902 flu outbreaks might have confered some kind of immunity to the older sector of the population who survived one or both. Another theory is that many in the 18-40 age group in Europe were soldiers and war-workers whose immune systems were under especial strain. There is very new research, just from 2007, based on samples taken from known victims, that the 1918 flu caused a severe over-reaction of the immune system which resulted in the body shutting down. This article discusses it: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2006/09/060927201707.htm I was very suprised to learn that malaria is also fairly prevalent in Oregon. Apparently it has something to do with the rain forests. It's carried by mosquitoes and transmitted in the blood when they bite you. Any place where it is moist enough for mosquitoes to lay eggs and breed is a potential habitat for malaria. OB costume: I can remember my grandmother talking about the flu epidemic, and the friends she lost as a girl. She also remarked that she hated the dropped waist styles of the time. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Tudor Sweating sickness
It could be that. I work in a health sciences library. But the first reported cases, known as the New Acquintance seems to have sprung up in England, shortly after Henry VII won the battle of Redmore Plain, known later as Bosworth Field. Historians assume that some of the foreign troops on Henry Tudor's side imported a new virus or a new strain of virus most Englishmen and women had no resistance to. It is possible that it was also an especially fast-moving and often lethal influenza virus. If ever DNA testing is possible on the remains of someone who is known to have died of it, it might be possible to id what the sweating sickness was. I know that not too long ago, it was discovered that many people today of European descent actually show biological markers that prove their ancestors were survivors of the Black Death. It would be interesting to find out how many also survived the sweating sickness. It seems that Henry VIII was correct in reassuring Anne Boleyn that few women fell victim to it and more women survived it than men. Were most women exposed to something that men were not, or had antibodies that men didn't? Henry VIII had an extreme fear of illness that is actually understandable in view that for most of his reign, he had no legitimate male heir. Also the precautions Henry VII took to guard his second son from illness, not only speaks of ultraprotection of his sole male heir, but I think, may also have stemmed from the sudden death of Prince Arthur. Historian David Starkey points out in Six Wives: The Queens of Henry VIII that there was no contemporary proof that Prince Arthur was sickly or a weakling prior to his marriage to Catherine of Aragon. All the existing evidence points to Arthur's final illness and death to have been rather sudden and unexpected. Cindy Abel Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of A. Thurman Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 3:47 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor Sweating sickness I've been watching too and was surprised to find that the sweating sickness outbreak was one of the things they got right! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweating_sickness Also I have access to PubMed through work and several articles there suggest it was a type of hantavirus passed by rodents. Allison T. On Jan 8, 2008 3:18 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 1 Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 12:19:48 -0800 (PST) From: Julie [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Comments on The Tudors To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], h-costume@mail.indra.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I rented the disks from Blockbuster this weekend and had a couple of questions/comments. There is substantial mention of a sweating sickness that killed thousands during Henry VIII's time. What was that? No mention of buboes like for plague or marks like smallpox. Did this really happen or was it just part of their story? It was very contagious and people were told to burn all clothing bedding. I believe consumption is tuberculosis, right? Any other old disease names with modern equivalents I should know? I know the costumes were discussed when the show first came out What I found most jarring was anything from the neck up. The hairstyles were extremely modern. Long hair was down exposed. Crowns headgear, at least on the women, looked fantasy or Las Vegas. Julie in Ramona ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] A bit OT doll bustle dress question for bonnet
On the contrary, many white dresses in sheer fabrics(although layered so the effect was opaque)were worn in the summer months were worn by the fashionable during the bustle period, see Harper's Bazar(yes, that's the spelling) on microfilm in many larger public libraries. There are lots of fashion plates and written guidelines for proper mourning wear and its duration for widows down to what we would consider rather distant relatives, for the rich and fashionable to follow. Few gowns survive because of wear and tear, discoloration, staining and greying, and when such gowns did survive the summer season, parts could be recycled into another garment, children's clothing or even handkerchiefs. Dyeing and redyeing of clothing was also common to extend a garment's life and then mourning would require dyeing everthing but underpinnings to black or at least lilac and gray for half-mourning. Depending on the style, bustles could be fairly lightweight to weighing a few pounds. A fashionable woman could have several pounds of clothing from underpinnings to outergarments in one ensemble to support--definitely eliminating the need for portable weight equipment carry around! I too, recommend Fran Grimbel's two books on Gilded Age fashions. I would love a BJD, but the cost is prohibitive to my budget right now. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Patterning Question
Dear Sarah: I've not done this sort of work before, but make sure you copyright your work before selling/donating it if you are creating your patterns from scratch, if possible. I do interlibrary loan and some authors have to sign away their rights as author in order to get published. So if they need a published version copy of a work they authored they sometimes have to pay for it. Also, what kind of copies do they want: full scale hardcopies in what material(paper, muslin, etc), scale copies in what scale, or digital copies? This affects the price you charge, depending on the work you have to put into it to supply the copy format. Hope this helps. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sarah Paterson Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:09 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] Patterning Question I have been asked to do some cutting sewing for a National Historic Site, which I have done before, but this time they are asking for a copy of my patterns for the archives. This one is a new one on me. So may I ask the group, especially those have done this aspect of contract work before, what do you charge for your patterns? Thank you Sarah Paterson ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] is this based on a real portrait?
I believe it is based on one; check out any formal portrait of the 1840's-1850's of Queen Victoria in evening dress, because the neckline looks evening. The Butterick pattern looks more like an interpretation of the 1840's than 1850's. You might have luck in finding pictures of Queen Victoria in such dress made when she and Prince Albert made a state visit to France. I don't know about gold, but I think her formal coronation gown was gold. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 11:01 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] is this based on a real portrait? I have seen a similar style worn by someone portraying QV but I do not recall any of her portraits having this style. Most gowns that she worn before she became a widow had some sort of lace on it or ruffle. Do note that the pattern has the waistline to low. Actually I believe that Queen Elizabeth II wore something like this gown in her early years. QV, age 24 close http://www.scholars.nus.edu.sg/victorian/painting/victoria/winter3.jpg Victorian dresses http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=3IEN=1805 http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2I=881 http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2I=170 http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2I=140 http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_500.htm http://www.antiquedress.com/item9668.htm -Original Message- I've been looking at the cover photo on my copy of Butterick 3713 http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2348/2119647295_6faec963f3_o.jpg and I've always thought that this was based on a real portrait or image of Queen Victoria, but I can't find a portrait of Queen Victoria that looks like this or even a portrait of Queen Victoria in Gold, can anyone else think of a real Victorian image this might be based on? thanks Elizabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung
I think shantung is fewer slubs and finer ones than dupioni, but it is more densely wovern(more threads per inch), which would make the fabric heavier in weight Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:00 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Morning Zuzana! Here is an excerpt of an article series that I recently started called Straight from the Corset. I think it answers your question about silks. If you want to see the whole article let me know. :) Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). 28 grams = 1 ounce. 8 momme = 1 oz. In determining the right silk for your purposes, silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, 20 to 28 is considered medium weight and anything above that is considered heavyweight. Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. For a detailed chart go to http://www.classactfabrics.com/silk/silk_fabric.htm For further reading go find: Mola, Luca. The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press. 2000. My source was the above book. :) Chiara Francesca -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 9:19 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Bjarne: I have this book and it does have many color illustrations in it as well as text. It covers fashion as influenced by Stuart art and literature from c1600 to 1714, although it shows few fashions past 1700. There is an excellent section on masque costumes, most of the pictures date from 1603-1635. Naturally, the Interregnum(1649-1660) gets little coverage. Hope this helps! Cindy Abel, Omaha NE -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 1:33 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Blood off fabric
If the blood is fresh and scant, spit sometimes works on cotton and linen. However it can still stain. I'm sure we've all experienced this doing embrodiery or handsewing a seam. Some Victorian and Edwardian books on household remedies do include natural cleaning remedies. I've heard of vinager and baking soda having some effect, but it might harm even colorfast fabrics. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tasha Tudor Auction catalog
This link will take you to some online images from the Tasha Tudor costume collection auction catalog. It is on sale now at the site for $45.00 The few gowns modeled in the Nov-Dec issue of Victoria are exquisite. I'm subscribing(still awaiting my first sample copy)but found the issue Saturday at Bag Save, my local discount grocery store, no less! So happy this magazine is back, if only bi-monthly issues! Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Tasha Tudor collection
Thanks for the news on the new Victoria. For those that miss the original Victoria, it is now 6 instead of 12 issues a year. So the first issue is Nov-Dec. You can subscribe online or wait for the 30th for it to appear on newsstands. It will be $4.95 on newsstands. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s
I have a similar book that is a hardcover, and is an updated version of about 300 pages. It is also big on (remodeling) reusing fabric and altering worn and out-of-fashion clothing, not just for children, but for women too. The section for men is limited, supposing that all but the simplest garments require a tailor that would be beyond the skills of most housewives(which appear to be pretty formidable to modern eyes), but kind of a not-so-subtle tone throughout, that clothing for children and women should be of good quality, but make, alter, and mend so that men will have enough money, as the breadwinners after all, of good quality purchased clothing and the services of a tailor. However since the book was first published during the Depression and cloth and notions were the most expensive factors in any new garment, the book makes a lot of sense, putting it in its proper time: the Depression and World War II. The book naturally favors quality wool, linen, and cotton, over untested synthetics and blends where fabric content wasn't broken down for the consumer. Patterns ran 10-50 cents usually, which was considered expensive unless the pattern would be reused and not too many alterations were required. The book encouraged sewers to use an old garment that fit as a beginning point to making a pattern and showed how to make different pattern pieces based on the original garment. Although people wanted to be fashionable as much as today, the book stressed that while movies and magazines were sources of ideas for making one's own clothing, a classic wardrobe, for wear year after year with small often removeable details for seasonal changes and bows to fashion was the all-important Good Taste, not embracing every whim of Dame Fashion, was the proper way to go. A multi-season coat, good basic black dress, a suit, pared with multi-function blouses and skirts that could be mixed and matched with boleros, jackets, vests and belts or no for multiple looks were advised even for women who could afford servants. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jean Waddie Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 3:47 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s Suzi Clarke wrote: At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote: Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I would have claimed! :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere. The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit for you. It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old pieces and really is a very clever thing. My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across the world in 1946: Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to get out of this uniform and into my good old... My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the Air Force. Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his uniforms had to be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to waste... I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and new things made. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper while watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television. I think I would have been about three years old. I remember the red wool - I don't remember anything about the wedding! Jean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
These embroidered jackets aren't exclusive to England--I've seen a couple of reproduced paintings(one in a book of Dutch cooking)showing a Dutch upper-class housewife also in the same style of jacket. Fashion in Detail, volume 1 has a couple of details in jackets done all in black thread. One is impressive in the detail, including shading in the embroidery work, but is literally disappearing as the black mordant in the dye has destroyed much of the threadwork. There is also a lady's smock all done in cross-stitch in original deep pink silks in simple, but effective motifs. It is still an amazing amount of work. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cin Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 1:18 PM To: h-cost Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets I know you are not necessarily looking for info on the embroidery jackets Alex but, just in case anyone has missed this, the Plimoth Plantation has a project on to recreated an embroidered jacket. The Wardrobe Manager is blogging about the project here: http://plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/index.php?mode=viewidpost_id=8 Catherine, What a great blog! Stuffed full of cool info delicious detail pics. (Like spangles silver wrapped silk threads.) Thanks so much for the pointer. A fair warning to others, tho', it isnt Elizabethan. The jacket in the portrait that they're copying is c 1614-18. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
Wow, what a cloak! Especially since peacock feathers don't come cheap! This cloak is priceless! You must have put in weeks of work! It could be worn for fantasy, at one of Queen Anne of Denmark(wife of James I of England's)masques, or be on the haute couture catwalk today. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Looking for picture link
It could also show that she is all-seeing, all-hearing. This could be seen as being ever-watchful, ever protective of her realm and its people. Elizabeth I once stated I see, but am silent and in her Golden Speech before Parliament, near the end of her reign, confessed that England may have had better rulers, but never one who loved her people more. It was probably having the memories of both her father's and elder sister's matramonial trials always in her mind the reason she never married--as she once said that she was married to England, indicating her coronation ring. I'm not quite sure of the significance of the snake--but the fact that it curls around her arm--rather like the serpent around a physician's caudecus, might not be as sinister a symbol as we might interpret it to be. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:47 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for picture link Land of Oz wrote: Yuck! What is the story behind the eyeballs and ears all over this dress? The snake on her arm interesting, but what is the significance? ~Denise B http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/rainbowlarger.jpg Reason or Interest of State', or perhaps 'The Art of Government': 'She is represented in a garment of turquoise woven with eyes and ears to symbolise her jealous hold over her dominion, and her desire to have the eyes and ears of spies, the better to judge her own plans and foil those of others'. -- Janet Arnold, _Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd_ The snake appears to have been a piece of jewelery, and is mentioned in the wardrobe accounts. It also appears in a portrait of an unknown lady dated after the Queen's death, Arnold surmises it was given away. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves
I agree too that the alternative cut gives a more portrait look, although I've only played with both as possible sleeves for Tonner's new 12 Agnes Dreary doll. Now that I have a digital camera, I can take pics of the project in progress--when I get to doing it--and maybe share those pics, if anyone on the list might be interested. You could also try Jean Hunnisett's Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800. There is a bell sleeve pattern with an alternative Lady Jane Grey sleeve that is cut on the bias. Now that Lady Jane Grey sleeve should be called Queen Katherine Parr as the portrait Hunnisett adapted it from has been reidentified as the later. Hunnisett also has scale patterns of Tudor bodices, foreparts. Undersleeves, and overskirts. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Beteena Paradise Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 5:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Tudor bell sleeves On page 115 of the Tudor Tailor, there is a pattern/diagram. I personally think that the alternate cut given looks closer to the ones shown in the portraits you provided. Good luck! Teena Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm interested in experimenting with this style of gown. Does anyone know of a diagram that shows the cutting shape of the bell sleeve? The body of the dress I think I can figure out. Here are some examples: http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1-scrots.jpg http://www.geocities.com/anoria_j/Medieval_images/Lady_Jane_Grey.jpg http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costuming patterns soon?
With the Fall-Winter release of Elizabeth I: The Golden Age and The Other Boleyn Girl--well, okay the costuming isn't accurate and the headdresses for the women in OBG are worse(way, way too small, like they are Tudor headbands or something)than the saucer French hoods in Anne of the Thousand Days--(and that was 1968!)are pattern companies like Simplicity, McCalls, or Butterick planning their own versions/uhm ripoffs? I can appreciate the kind of out-there legend/fantasy of what I've seen of Elizabeth I's garb for The Golden Age, but The Other Boleyn Girl looks totally off--fabric and the aforementioned headbandy excuses for gable and French hoods. I know we have to see the actors' faces, but most actors now like to look more accurate in historic films and TV. Of course The Other Boleyn Girl has Mary younger than Anne, kind of playing Gennifer Flowers to Henry VIII's Bill Clinton and Anne as a more knowing and plotting Monica Lewinsky. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:12 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] Walmart cloth...good news/bad news... There are (and I don't know why) 3 super Walmarts in our little ol' College town. The oldest is keeping thier's for a while the other ones are keeping the bare minimum. De -Original Message- The little one in Dade City, Florida is keeping theirs. Good thing too, it's 50 miles to the closest JoAnns! However, many others in the state closed their out. ** I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that the $1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady and she said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department and were replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPE! She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to be. -- ** Aspasia Moonwind ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown
A lot of photographs and portraits from this era show women wearing the fashionable silhouette, whether it flattered them or not, in our eyes. But even in the 18th century, whether drawn on the imaginary ideal or a painted portrait, artists tailored their work to an ideal that few women could meet. And until the latter part of the 20th century, with the advent of diets, plastic surgery, and just the rare draw of the right DNA, very very few women did. Also, the fashionable ideal in the later 19th century was curvy and so-called pocket Venuses(short but curvy women who could corset their waists to the fashionable ideal)rivalled the taller women, like Lily Langtry and Sarah Bernhardt, who are more attractive to the modern eye. The important most important thing is fit. The latter half of the 19th century abounds in surviving photographed portraits where fit isn't the best. And few women could or would corset themselves to the fashionable ideal, just as today, few women really can meet the under-ideal-weight of fashion models and actresses. Proper drape and scale of fabric in both weight and design is critical for both dolls and short persons like me(below 5')Keeping to a single color tone is best on the short--for the tall and very thin, then as now, can wear all the wild color combinations of the Belle Epoque when new dye technology made really bright colors possible. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
Well, they might consider reinactors--for like the Civil War gowns and underpinnings by Martha McCain and the newer Patterns from History that are far more authentic, but I think they consider the main potential buyers as Halloween and high school, college, and the local community playhouse. Reinactors would get at least patterns that are more easily alterable than starting from scratch. I'm willing to bet that most of those designers for the historical costumes start out with far more authentic patterns and then have to modify them for a mass audience to a greater or lesser degree. Last I heard of Martha McCain, on this list, I think, was a year or so ago. If I remember right, she was working on 18th century costumes. It would be great to get mass-market patterns that finally get the 18th century bodice and sleeves right! I remember doing an Eleanor of Toledo dress by buying 2 or 3 RenFaire type costumes years ago from McCall's and Simplicity at 99 cents each(not having the skill or the equipment to enlarge the Arnold pattern on my apartment wall in order to trace it out.) I altered the bodice patterns to fit me first and then redrew the patterns to match Arnold. Still pretty time-consuming, but without a dressmaker's dummy in the size of yours truly, it was the cheapest way to go. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 12:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns In a message dated 7/23/2007 11:42:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Do they want to sell the patterns to reenactors as well, or just for the Halloween crowd? ** A...there lies the rub. I think in this specific instance it the I wanna look like the film Marie Antoinette crowd. Maybe they figure reenactors can see past the Halloween look. ** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] New Simplicity patterns
Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com One looks like a reissue of the Scotch/Irish lass pattern of a few years' ago. It is #3623 The others are by Deborah Woodbridge and are full-rig Marie Antoinette mode. The underpinnings : stays, pannier/petticoat and pockets looks pretty good. The gown pattern isn't bad, but the wig is full-on Victorian-Edwardian through '20's snow-white costume wig. The numbers are #3635 and #3637 Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales! Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Movies: The Golden Age
There is a picture from the upcoming movie: Elizabeth: The Golden Age that looks pretty authentic, compared to pics of the rest I've seen. Elizabeth I wears it and it appears to be cream satin with a fairly subtle diagonal design. It does appear to have some lace or lace-like embroidery on the bodice front with tiny gems or sequins done sparingly. The open ruff looks pretty good, and the curled, beribboned wig adorned with upstanding feathers held by a jewellered broach is also. But what's with the angle of the wired veiling? Instead of standing upright and framing the entire emsemble, its at about at a 60 degree angle. While aesthetically pleasing to the modern eye, so Elizabeth/Cate Blanchette's face stands out more against the darker background, it isn't what's shown in portraits of the Elizabethan court or most famously, on Mary Queen of Scotts. Does anyone know for certain how this full length, wired from the top in a curved or heart-shape was worn as the final touch to an entire Elizabethan/French noblewoman's ensemble? I always thought it was strictly upright, not at an angle, behind the wearer. Although the angle would ensure that no one could trail too closely behind without at least bumping into the wire veiling. A clever way to ensure a bit more open space around the wearer, however. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ann Catelli Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 5:57 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Movies Re: The Golden Age(film)/Dracula --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: nothing to do with Romania, Transylvania, and the 19th century, but hey, this is fiction, right? Then don't, at the beginning of the film, put up a date in 20 ft high numbers: 1898 Ah, like The League of Extrodinary Gentlemen (or whatever its actual title is). Big date re: 1890s, Tom Sawyer as the ingenue and a bunch of creepy characters. But Tom Sawyer was 10-14 in the 1850s. He's still an young innocent in the 1890s?!? Eat your heart out, Dorian Gray. Which movie I enjoyed and enjoyed the costumes, but entirely separately from any historical implications. Ann in CT not lightning!! Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/newmail_tools.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Elizabeth-The Golden Age
There is a new trailer up on the official website: http://www.elizabeththegoldenage.net/ It offers some more glimpse of costumes. Spanish Armada sequences should be pretty awesome, although most of it is CGI. Accurate or not, the cinematography promises to be impressive as well. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix
Well, the movies are different from the books. In the books, I think that the students only wear robes over everyday attire; in the movie they wear uniforms to class and usually robes. Robes aren't worn all the time. Also, this year and part of last when the movie was shooting, a headband(or Alice)band was definitely a fashion must, especially for the age group worshiping Paris Hilton et.al as fashion icons. So putting the movie Umbridge in bad Chanel knockoffs 60's suits was not such a bad idea, I think. Also as a Ministry of Magic official, she would be more intimidating to the students and the audience by being tall--we associate height with authority. I do agree that this one book is worth 2 or 3 movies in length--perhaps in the future a literal miniseries of all the books might get done as in two-plus hours it isn't possible to be totally faithful to each book. I was going to see the movie this coming weekend as I hate dealing with large crowds, but the last Harry Potter book will be hitting my mailbox sometime Saturday, so I will have to read the last book first!! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wanda Pease Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:15 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix I may get banned for saying this, but I was so irritated at the liberties they took with Umbridge that she grated on me the entire movie. She is so particularly described as frog-like and wearing an Alice Band (a hair band for those US types that never saw the Tennille drawings for Alice in Wonderland!). This woman did the syrupy sweet b*(h, but was too tall, and too together to suit my vision. I missed Peeves too! I suppose that to do it justice this book needs someone to do it in 3 movies (the fight scene alone would make an entire movie!) like Lord of the Rings! Man did I recognize that Pink clothing from the Jackie Kennedy days! Thank God I wasn't wearing it, but I do recognize it! Wanda -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 2:10 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix Went to see this movie yesterday. Of special interest to me was the wardrobe of Dolores Umbridge. I think they cornered the market on pink boucle. One great outfit after another, all in shades of pink/fushia/soft red, and great cat jewelry. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix
They may have shot her to look tall like, Robbie Contrane's Hagrid as well. Haven't seen the movie either yet, but notice from the way it is shot, in the previews, Imelda looks taller than she is, apparently. For instance, when Harry is before the Ministry of Magic, she seems to be seated as part of a rising stack(stadium seating)of officials, and in other previews appears to be standing when others are sitting. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 3:46 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix On Jul 16, 2007, at 7:23 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote: So putting the movie Umbridge in bad Chanel knockoffs 60's suits was not such a bad idea, I think. Also as a Ministry of Magic official, she would be more intimidating to the students and the audience by being tall--we associate height with authority. It's Imelda Staunton. I've seen her in a lot of stuff; she often works with Stephen Fry and Hugh Laurie. She's not at all a tall woman. Positively tiny standing next to Fry and Laurie. 5' even according to the bio information I was able to find. Of course, I haven't watched the movie yet, I suppose they may have put her in heels. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
I think that historical accuracy is becoming less important in films, because a lot of minds in the film industry think accuracy has to go out the window in terms of the current aesthetic, budget, and the stars have to look good. It has always been so, but accurate as possible seems to equate with dull, academic, and very PBS. Compare the costumes in Elizabeth R with any Tudor-set film before or since. Not totally accurate, but reasonably close. Even Bette Davis when she played the aging QE1 in a film horrified the studio boses by shaving her head and insisting on being made-up to reflect E's age circa 1600. And sometimes the stars want to look good--you want more authentic--check out the extras in the background. Even in a Man for All Seasons has a 60's vibe--costumes seen in dull earth colors-(because it was generally thought back then only the very wealthy had bright rich colors and the somber mood of the film with the Mores as mostly noble and honest persons equalled honest earth colors) and everyone has that healthy tan makeup of the 60's for the natural look! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jean Waddie Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 12:52 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film) Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote At 18:48 11/07/2007, you wrote: The sequel to the 1998 film Elizabeth, starring Cate Blanchette and Geoffrey Rush, The Golden Age has released its first trailer. I caught it on E channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!) The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be Dec or later before most of us outside major cities will be able to catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before its debut. I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over costume pics for this film, accurate or not. It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in Dracula in one of the pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.) Suzi It's certainly an interesting mis-interpretation of that 15th century style of headdress. The doily in the middle makes her look like a butterfly cake! Jean -- Jean Waddie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
The sequel to the 1998 film Elizabeth, starring Cate Blanchette and Geoffrey Rush, The Golden Age has released its first trailer. I caught it on E channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!) The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be Dec or later before most of us outside major cities will be able to catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before its debut. I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over costume pics for this film, accurate or not. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT Baggy)
Back in the '60's more than one town or city actually enacted laws on minimal skirt length when the miniskirt jumped the pond from Carnaby Street to stateside. For guys, the Beatles' haircut roused similar ire. Many public schools are banning the droopy pants, along with anything gang and/or blatant advertising as well as culturally questionable--crop tops, anything alcohol, drug, sex related, even witty double-entendres. Extreme hair colors, such as neon blue or styles too. Basically anything considered a disruption to learning or name brand or style that might elicit envy up to forceable removeable from wearer. This new movement seems even more severe than the school dress codes I experienced concerning miniskirts, hot pants, slacks for girls, tennis shoes, etc--as all of the above were eventually permitted. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sonja (LS-LAMP) Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:05 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT Baggy) How clothing style can effect law: Well, I live several miles from Delcambre LA and a lot of us think this is just great. The people the law targeted wore pants several inches below the hip line; some almost to their knees. The pants would pull downward on whatever was worn underneath. Believe me; this sometimes went well beyond a little skin showing or thong strap not to mention near-see-through white briefs. Race? Funny, I haven't come across anyone who has even thought anything of the kind. Unless you mean pro-Jewish. That's the only race we haven't caught with the pants-to-the-knees. Delcambre is a small town and several town citizens complained about this style of dress. It was requested that this matter be brought up at a counsel meeting. The people elected by the town citizens felt they should give this a bit of attention; after all, the town citizens were asking it be done. SO, with just a little bit of time needed to be set aside, the new law was developed. Yes, more important things were discussed and have been discussed since then... such as the ever-going rebuilding efforts that have been the main focus of the entire town since the hurricane nearly wiped it out. However, the town officials still choose to pay attention to all the needs and concerns brought to them by their citizens. Now you know the rest of the story. -- Original Message --- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 00:00:22 -0700 From: Silvara [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?) To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII so what about panty peek when a woman bends over in low rise jeans? argh Silvara [Original Message] From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 6/18/2007 8:03:36 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?) In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: People caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre, Louisiana, USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will make wearing saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure. I think I am going to move to Louisiana, *** You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of Puritanical foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's boxers.[Wonder how race plays into it?] What next, banning fat people from wearing short sleeves? Burkas for all women? How about a nice brown shirt and some jack boots. Like LA towns don't have more important things to legislate Pitiful. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.
Bjarne: Thank you so much for sharing this stunning ensemble. Now if you could have all of your customers as pleased and appreciative of all of your work as Sophie. Cindy Abel Omaha NE Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
If you want to be authentic use a stiff canvass or other natural fabric that is stiff. Be sure to prewash everything before cutting the fabric if you are doing washables. If authenticity isn't a big must, try a washable fusible or sew-in interlining, maybe more than one layer. Also, if you don't have a copy, check out the Medieval Tailor's assistant for detailed construction of a cotehardie, from underwear through accessories. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening In a message dated 6/4/2007 3:31:39 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up collars of my husband's cotehardies. I've got some lightweight linen that I'm planning on using for him this summer, and it will definitely need some help to keep the collar in an upright position. Is buckram washable? If not, what do you recommend I use to add some stiffness to the collar? Collar canvas and Rigilene. You can find the canvas at a tailoring supply company and the Rigiline (plastic boning) usually at Joanne's. It will lay nicer if you also pad stitch the outside fabric to the canvas. Cheryl Odom ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Bjarne's upcoming Inspiration article.
Bjarne: Many contributors to journals don't get paid unless they are on the journal's staff or on contract. Possibly just as well they might not include the pattern, because lots of contributors also have to sign away their rights to journals, which might include the pattern. Not getting paid by the journal that publishes your work is quite common, especially in the academic community, where tenure and career advancement rides on getting published or perishing Journal publishers see themselves as taking all the monetary risk and contributors should be grateful that their work sees the light of day, in their view. This attitude has existed since Gutenburg, when printers/publishers did run huge risks, both monetary and political if someone in power didn't approve of what they published. The solution to this is having your website or other information about contacting you if readers are interested in that pattern, printed in that issue. You might be able to sell copies of your work in that way and make a little money. I once bought a pattern for a really authentic 1880's doll outfit by contacting the contributor whose contact info was at the end of the article she created. Excellent little pattern, by the way, with more contruction information than most magazines can include with their patterns. Bonne chance!! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 7:57 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne's upcoming Inspiration article. The previous issue is number 54 and they told me i would be in number 55 wich comes in august. It seems to be that i only wil have the interwiev with pictures, they were interrested in gettning the embroidery pattern for my embroidered bird stomacher, but i dont think it wil come because i should have heard from them but have not. Also i told them i thoaght it was very rude that they dont pay their contributors who gives away embroidery designs for the magazine, actually we are in the year 2007, not 1880. But isnt this typically, because its most ladies who gives away their work for free, i think its about time, they get paid!!! Same with my kind of work, i work in nursing old people, and they pay us very poor, also because it still is womans work, typically Comeon ladies, you must insist to be payed well!!! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Michelle Plumb [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:14 AM Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne's upcoming Inspiration article. Bjarne, there seems to be some confusion about which issue you will be appearing in. I sent in a pre-order for issue August issue #57 (as you mentioned), and was told that issue #57 wouldn't be available until 23 Jan 2008. Has there been some sort of mixup? Michelle, looking forward excitedly to your feature! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost]Theater vs Historic (was:new Butterick pattern
Also in the theater, on top of budget limitations, there is also the consideration of what is going to be seen by the audience, both in the front row and the cheap seats Lighting, director's vision, and just the present-time aesthetics also play a big part. Costume budgets have always been a relatively small part of the total budget in historically-set films. In the multi-disc DVD version of Room With a View, costume designer Jenny Bevan remarks on the difficulty on working with small budgets and what you can even source--she mentions that during the '70's everything was polyester. What the costume designer or costume department wants to do and what ends up on stage and screen has almost always been a compromise. We have to remember that mass-market pattern suppliers are marketing to a wide audience and what will sell is what comes first. So what is relatively easy to make and looks attractive to the modern eye trumps authenticity more often than not. What most of us couldn't afford to today is the amount of money people in the past had to spend on a single outfit. One noble person's single ensemble,during the reign of Elizabeth I, for court wear, could cost as much as a Porshe or more today. And would we want to have to work with lengths of expensive fabrics as narrow as 21 wide? Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061
I think they mean it to be pseudo Victorian or Edwardian, but it is not. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kim Baird Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 2:33 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: RE: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061 NOT Victorian or Edwardian. Kim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 10:39 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061 Can anybody tell me, roughly, what year this pattern might represent? http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B5061=xT I=10 001page=4 Is that Victorian? 20th century? Something else? I kind of like the nightgown. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot/Ellowyne Wilde
Dianne: Yes, that is exactly what I'm thinking of since I do have the basic Brunette. The only problem I see is that she has a side part and I don't want to have to reroot although a wig is possible. I have the basic redhead and will order two more Ellowynes(I hope) from the Spring 2007 line. Ellowyne's friends, Rufus and Penelope, are also promised to be released soon, which probably means this fall or later. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dianne Greg Stucki Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 4:50 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot At 12:03 PM 4/20/2007, you wrote: Just for fun, I'm planning to dress four 16 vinyl dolls(Wilde Imaginations Ellowyne Wilde doll)in historical or at least historical cut/modern fabrics in RenFaire-inspired dress. What a pretty doll. Wouldn't the Basic Brunette make a lovely Anne Boleyn? Dianne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot
Just for fun, I'm planning to dress four 16 vinyl dolls(Wilde Imaginations Ellowyne Wilde doll)in historical or at least historical cut/modern fabrics in RenFaire-inspired dress. Just one, I'm planning to dress, probably for a less flamboyant era, so I'm considering doing UK Civil War/Commonwealth. Since I'm on the west side of the pond, I don't see at RenFaires, plays, TV, movies, much in the way of costumes during the English Civil War and Commonwealth. I do have a few books on mid 17th century costuming, most noteably, Riberio's Fashion and Fiction and Hunnisett's Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800. I did find the Order of the Sealed Knot's website, which I gather is probably as big in the UK for reinactors as both the Revolutionary War and our Civil War is here in the U.S. Fabric is not a problem, but sources are. Right now, I'm thinking of doing something along the lines of using Hunnisett's pattern for the Commonwealth bodice for starters and adapting Hollar's illustration for Winter Any other suggestions? Thank you Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] The Tudors other costume shows
Turn down the volume and enjoy the visuals. What I find really fun is to critique the costumes and scenery--you can always date the movie how the lead actors are costumed, styled and made up. Even available colors at the time of the making of a film can give the date away. Also doing scene selection, skipping around which one can do with DVDs, is a good way to get around the talk. Cynthia Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] tudors
Amazon.com already has the first season of The Tudors listed as forthcoming on their site. But no release date or cost has been set. My local Best Buy carries DVDs of HBO series available on DVD so I will probably check for it there when it comes out. I don't get HBO, but what pics I've seen of the costuming, a blue-eyed Anne Boleyn, and Sam Neill as Wolsey(well, okay, real-life actors have to be easier on the eyes than resembling real people) historical accuracy wasn't the first concern of this production. Let me know if I'm wrong. Cynthia Abel, ILL Coordinator Creighton University Health Sciences Library [EMAIL PROTECTED] 402 280 5144 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gail Scott Finke Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 1:04 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] tudors Cat Devereaux wrote: Second season (warning this sounds like a commercial and didn't look up to see what years it really is): The second season will be even juicier than the first as we get into the infamous marriage of Henry VIII to Anne Boleyn, the birth of their daughter Elizabeth (who would one day become the greatest ruler in English history), the execution of Sir Thomas More, the Reformation of the church under the zealous supervision of Thomas Cromwell, and, finally, the infamous beheading of Anne after only three years of marriage. HEADS WILL ROLL! Thanks for the update! Maybe I should see if the first season will be out on DVD, I could use a good comedy series to watch. Yes, the post I got was from Peace Arch, a rather bizarre name for a film production company. My favorite part of the post was also from an explanation of the series, something about Henry taking on the all-powerful Catholic Church. That statement begs for arguments of all sorts, but the best one is that if he got rid of it, then it wasn't exactly all-powerful! This one is pretty good, too, especially the part about Elizabeth being the greatest ruler in English history. One of them, sure. But that's quite a claim. How about, say, William the Conquerer? Oh well, I guess it will be around for at least one more year... Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] vivian westwood
Most fashion changes have started at street-level during the past twenty years and most of the big-name designers, many who started noticing what people were wearing, much of it coming where young creative people were living, from the theatre, movies, or in probably more cases than said designers are willing to admit: reinactors or RenFaires. Then they give it their twist, put it on the runway, get the media coverage, and take the credit for reintroducing said corset, or whatever to the masses. I suspect that Charles Worth, who traditional took and got the credit, for introducing the super-wide hoop skirt, and then the the bustle, actually got those ideas from elsewhere. The crinoline actually came out in the 1850's and Worth did get a lot of inspiration from Renaissance and Elizabethan portraits. Cindy Abel Yesterday I saw a Vivian Westwood collection at the de Young in SF, CA. This is a big show with lots of cloths. It was very shocking. I think that her outrageous Punk period gave her the flamboyance that shows in almost everything she designs. The shoes have a clumpy comic book look (Crumm). Most of the items have an exaggerated look only to blow the mind not to make women look fine and handsome. She uses slashing of the fabric in a Renaissance way; this is good. Costumers for stage and screen try to do what the script calls for; beautiful or dowdy et-cetera;for example, I think that the series, Sex in the City which had at least 20 or 30 of the worlds top designers supplying Pat Fields whose main concern was to make the ladies look great and beautiful, sexy and not use the same item twice. The Monolo Blahnik shoes are beautiful in a different class from Westwoods'. There may be just one Westwood gown in SITC, but she is, so not the one to have designed for that series; hers stuff was to off the wall for it. Westwood gets the credit for re-introducing the corset to the world of high fashion circa 1980, but re-enactors were making corsets at the Dickens Fair here in the late seventies. The same thing was probably going on in the UK. The Rocky Horror Picture Show had the first corset in this modern period that I saw and i am sure that westwood was not the costumer, thats 1975 in England where she was probably exposed to it. So was there anyone there in the artistic bohemian crowd making corsets before the Tim Curry movie? I am going to go see the museum show again this friday. I'll try to keep an open mind. Larry Kincaid Jr ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Simplicity Elizabethan costume 3782
Simplicity has four new patterns in their Early Summer book, 2 Museum Curator Civil War costumes for women, a virtual reprint of their old Medieval Peasants pictured in different colorways than the original and Elizabethan costume 3782. I purchased the last and from the directions, the pics of the pattern pieces aren't that far off from Janet Arnold, Hunnisett's Period Costume for Stage and Screen and the Tudor Tailor, especially for a mass market pattern. The main sleeves are even two-piece and curved to fit the arm, thus forcing the wearer to hold her arms at the correct angle. Personally, I rather like View B, which is a simpler gown and plan to first use the direction diagrams enlarged and the Tudor Tailor to try this out on my new 16 Ellowyne Wilde doll. I am not good at drafting patterns from scratch, so I use something close(a pattern that fits me or the doll I'm dressing, the historically correct pattern, and go laborestly from there. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Simplicity Elizabethan costume 3782
Yes, but I was judging just by the general cut of the pattern pieces. Most of the commercial patterns are designed for the non SCA, non historically accurate people who want to dress in an approximation, and the fewer layers they wear, the more comfortable they are. I wasn't going to slavishly copy View B or A, but use them as a guide. I usually just get something in a modern pattern(those $1.99 pattern sales!)alter to fit me, and then haul out Arnold and Hunnisett as help to get the cut accurate. Now if we could get some last quarter of the 18th century good patterns from Simplicity(et.al). Cindy Abel The drawback is that there isn't a smock to go under it. sleeve of A has the smock sleeves sewn in. Dress B if worn this way is closer to a Civil War gown (think Scarlet's curtain dress) then Renaissance as the gown is suppose to be worn over dresses like dress A ex: http://tinyurl.com/ywzo36 http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Veronese1560.jpg http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElenoraToledo2.jpg http://www.tudor-portraits.com/MargaretAudley.jpg http://www.tudor-portraits.com/AnneAustria.jpg http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady39.jpg There are a few portraits showing the dress under the style B type to have a similar neckline as dress A but I can't seem to find them. Most were Italian De -Original Message- Personally, I rather like View B, which is a simpler gown and plan to first use the direction diagrams enlarged and the Tudor Tailor to try this out on my new 16 Ellowyne Wilde doll. I am not good at drafting patterns from scratch, so I use something close(a pattern that fits me or the doll I'm dressing, the historically correct pattern, and go laborestly from there. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Virgin Quees
We have to all stop laughing at the costuming(yeah, right)since historical accuracy, especially for the lead actors, has to always give way to 1)budget, 2)director's vision, 3)what is aesthetically pleasing right now to viewers--especially for the lead actors, and 4)budget(again). I actually appreciated the film Marie Antoinette for pointedly being up-front about not being strictly historically correct in costume--such films or productions often end up seeming more historically correct. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 1:57 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Virgin Quees I don't know if the PBS series The Virgin Queen is showing in all necks of the woods, but it just started here in Colorado this past Sunday. I'm wondering what you all thought of it, costume or otherwise? Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] re: The other Boleyn girl
Warnicke's biog has some theories I disagree with: Anne was the eldest, not Mary, brother George was possibly gay and the premature son Anne miscarried was probably malformed(therefore in those days deemed a monster)and Anne's fault(its always the woman's fault!)which led Henry to believe she was a witch. Warnicke, however, does give a convincing argument for the traditional 1507 birthdate for Anne, although that would make Mary very, very young to have an affair with Henry. Most historians nowdays think Anne was born between 1500-1502. My own theory is that Anne was probably born in 1507 and went first to the Burgundian court at age 6 or 7. Warnicke points out that another of Henry's courtier's sent his daughter Jane to the Burgundian court at the same age. The regent Marguerite had English blood through her descent from Edward IV's sister.Henry VIII's younger sister, Mary, was originally engaged to Marguerite's nephew(?), so it could be that Mary Boleyn would have been a lady-in-waiting or maid of honor to Mary Tudor, a higher position than just being in the household of Marguerite. When the Burgundian marriage plans/treaty failed, Mary Tudor was made the bride of Louis, King of France, and Mary was in her household that traveled to France. Sir Thomas Boleyn swiftly removed Anne from Burgundy and secured her a place in the French royal household. However, the whole Anne as a scheming Monica Lewinsky and Henry as a besotted Bill Clinton(it is glaringly obvious in the novel)was Gregory's take. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dor Mous Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 4:18 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: The other Boleyn girl That's the problem for me.They make out Philippa Gregory practically IS a historian now and a lot of people believe the hype. The novel was based on the highly controversial work of real historian, Retha Warnicke, whose crackpot theories have been lambasted many times. All the factual inaccuracies were Ms Gregory's, and there are plenty: basic facts, English culture, clothing etc. Even Mary Boleyn's not knowing how to make cook or make cheese was all wrong. Running a household was standard training for any English gentlewoman in the 16th century, even social climbers like the Boleyns. The distant, 'not getting her hands dirty' lady was a development of later ages, and Tudor ladies knew how to do everything, even when they could afford to pay someone else to do it. I understand that this is a film, based on a work of fiction. I'm happy that some changes will be made to cover dramatic license and furthering the story. This applies to costume too so I'm happy with some costume inaccuracy. But these costumes are just ugly. The French hood fronts are too small. Plain unflattering to both lead actresses. 'Anne of the Thousand Days', for all its many factual and costume inaccuracies, at least did Genevieve Bujold the courtesy of costuming her elegantly, and her inaccurate French hood fronts suited her. Never mind the dresses, I'm not sure I can bear a whole film watching Nathalie Portman and Scarlett Johannson with those things on their heads. I don't think it will have the comedy value of 'Shakespeare in Love' or the fine performances of 'Elizabeth', two other glaringly inaccurate but fairly enjoyable films. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 4 Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 11:26:50 -0500 From: monica spence Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: The other Boleyn girl To: Historical Costume Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I read the book too, but it did not make me crazy. It is so easy to make a mistake about clothing when you are a writer with little or no background in clothing history. I pretty much ignore that stuff. Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] The other boleyn girl
Oh boy, costume-wise this is going to be more fun to diss than the costumes in the film Anne of the Thousand Days(1969). I was thirteen then so most of the costumes, except for Anne's headgear looked pretty authentic to me. I guess they downsized the headdresses on the leads so those faces don't ever get obscured. And the fou-fou bodice detail: looks like the designer stole from here and there so it would look detailed enough for 2006 eyes. Portman should at least be shown in the latest French styles--and there were puffed sleeves now and again--but most English court women didn't look so well, Elizabethan, until Elizabeth. I'll probably see this film, but if it follows the book: Anne as Monica Lewinsky, Henry VIII as Bill Clinton heavy overtones, I'm going to endanger myself choking on my popcorn! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tania Gruning Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 2:13 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] The other boleyn girl http://natalieportman.com/npcom.php I wont say I am an expert or anything but those costumes are kinda cheesy. That pattern in the fabric screams poly to me, it is definitely not period, and that ladder lacing up the front with the stomacker is stolen from some italian city ;-). Not period at all. The attifets? are awful. the crescent is not long enough and should cover their hair and go more down to their ears. I wonder if they glued natalies on, looks like it just sits there. The profile is pretty good though as long as you don't look at them closely. I am however looking forward to seeing the movie sometime, since that is a period that does interest me. Are padded pleats period for tudor, thought they were later? Tania __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
It could be that the wearer is pregnant and it looks like the stomacher
and maybe the bodice is cut to allow this. Probably laced so, which the
surcoat would cover any gaps in the stomacher/bodice lacing. Or it could
be she is wearing the latest fad in stomachers. During the 15th century,
there are portraits, brasses, and drawings where high-waisted gowns not
only made women look pregnant(see the Antirfoni{sorry
spelling!))Marriage but women are often depicted posed as if they were.
Pregnancy was a desirable state to be painted in as most women who could
afford to be painted were pregnant.
Since women couldn't just whip out to the mall or buy a prepproduced
pattern, they adapted what they had in their wardrobes. Colonial
Williamsburg has a three-piece ensemble that could be worn before,
during and after pregnancy with drawstrings and adjustable lacing.
Cindy Abel
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RE: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
-Original Message- Kind of sad the Police Boxes are disappearing, but they've worked that a bit into the new Doctor Who series where the Tardis stands out a lot more instead of being more anonymous. And the so-called historic costuming in episodes where it is called for, is just as much fun to pick apart as the original series. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
Who is the publisher? If they have a website, we can check for publication date and price as the publication date nears. This would be a dream book for me if the price isn't too high. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 9:29 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]: For those awaiting (such as I am) Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII, the publisher has informed me that the release date has been delayed to May 2007. Do you have any idea about how much it's going to cost? susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
One: Google the designers you mentioned and don't forget Mary Quant, Biba(the store), or Ozzie Clark. The Brit invasion (of their designers) had probably a bigger impact on what most people wore than most European fashion houses. Two: If you can find one of the Dover published Fashions of the 1960's as pictured in the Sears Catalog that is a pretty good source as to what people wore. Three: Any book featuring color pics of fashions from the '60's and if you can lay your hands on some Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Elle, or Seventeen and Glamour mags those are really valuable sources. Or take a look at what Mattel came up for Barbie and gang, especially for Barbie's Mod-ern cousin, Francie and British cousin Stacie dolls. Mattel did a Twiggy doll too and the fashions Mattel did at this time are just a time capsule of Mod fashion in doll scale. There are at least two books covering the Barbie Mattel line and those fashions. I myself wore a Carnaby street knock-off from the Sears catalog--a royal blue mini dress with white shirt-style collar and cuffs. From the collar was a faux man's four-in-hand tie in shocking pink with little white dots. Completing the look, I also had shocking pink knee-high socks, black Mary Jane shoes and the royal blue Dutch boy cap that came with the dress. I was ten and it is the first outfit I remember that 1)was the latest style, 2)all the pieces matched, and 3)didn't include a hand-me-down from my older cousins, or wasn't mother or grandmother made. In the 60's an all store-bought outfit in the mod style was a status symbol in my neighborhood. Fortunately, I was young and thin enough to wear a mini and look cute without Dad hitting the ceiling. Older girls in my neighborhood had to fight parents to wear minis and school rules that actually measured girl's skirt lengths to make sure we weren't indecent Ah, youth!! Have fun researching!! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 9:28 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's What about try to look at the library? I know for instance the library at Museum of Decorative Arts in Copenhagen takes home all the fashion journals, and i think they have archived these. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Angharad ver' Reynulf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:46 PM Subject: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's Greetings everyone! I'm popping out of lurkdom after Worldcon and Loscon to ask for help while setting up another group set of costumes for next year's Friday Night Fun. Wonder of wonders, they are pulling me out of medieval era clothing/costume and into making more early-to-mid 20th century stuff. The theme is Mod as in the mid 1960's. My tighter focus, at least in theory, is going to be closer to the items worn by Diana Riggs in the Avengers, or one of the other similar designers, but I am also finding interesting comments about a couple of other designers. I'll share a few of the ones I don't want for myself with some of the other folks doing the theme who haven't chosen yet as well. So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates (Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne. I'll be trying to determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me break out in serious cases of the itchies now. My husband's first vote is for the immediately identifiable first season Emma Peel leather catsuit, but I want to see a few other ideas before I make up my mind. (*grin*) Then to find a nice pair of 1940's patterns for me- one for day and one for evening! Thank you, Jonnalyhn Wolfcat aka Angharat Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
A very excellent review, and yes the female models(which may be the authors' themselves) are very thin. We should remember that these are European authors and patterns, both who are slimmer than Americans. I might add that these patterns are scale ones so a projector or graph paper is a must in sizing these patterns up to real scale What I liked most about the book was the inclusion of middle and lower class clothing and the color swatches of 16th century colors. I'm guessing that the authors presupposed that anyone that would want their book would have already had read or owned Arnold's books and perhaps, Jean Hunnisett's as well. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 4:13 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review I received my copy this morning, and have spent most of the day reading it. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be. First, the quality of the book, the binding, the paper, and the photography, is very good. The first three chapters have a lot of pictures, some I've seen a lot of other places, and many I had not seen before anywhere else. The color is good and the photos are clear, even though most are less than 3 across. The first part of the book is chock full of details and tidbits of clothing information taken from sources, covering things like the weave and cut of hose, foundation padding, hair dressing, the costs of different kinds of stockings, and the colors used for petticoats. Some of the text is footnoted with sources, some of it is not. It rather rambles with no set direction, but it's interesting. There is a useful table on period fabrics, and a short section on basic sewing techniques like buttonholes and pleats. However, this is not a beginner's book. You should have a moderate sewing ability, including being able to draft up the scale diagrams and alter them to fit you, and construct them with minimal directions. It will help immensely if you already have some experience with clothing from this period, because a lot of the instructions given are very scant, and if you don't know what it is supposed to look like, you'll be lost. There's a page on how to fit men's hose, which might be useful to some people I know. However, there's also a picture of a man in hose with slashes above the knee, and no hint of how they're made. Obviously, there's slashes, but there's also some kind of lining which isn't explained. There's a number of other patterns which variations pictured -- some of which can be figured out by looking at other patterns, and some of which are again never explained. Mostly, it's sleeves. The patterns cover a good spectrum, male and female, upper and lower class, Henrician and Elizabethan styles. I wish some of the accompanying photos of the modelled clothing were larger and showed more detail. There's directions for farthingales and rolls, ruffs and collars, and about ten hats and hoods. My main complaint about the patterns is they are mostly undocumented. There's nothing on them alluding to a source garment or painting used as reference. The few exceptions, like the loose kirtle, are already covered in Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_. Finally, the models are all impossibly thin and the patterns are drafted for the size 12-14 range. If you are larger than that, and a lot of folks these days are, you are in for a lot of work. Overall, I was pleased with the book. It's a good one-stop source for the 1500's if you're going to be doing recreation clothing. If you already have patterns or a wardrobe you don't *need* this book, but some of the reference photos might make it worth it. If you've never sewn anything before, this might be a little overwhelming and I would definitely brush up on basic sewing and fitting techniques or work with an experienced helper. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
I saw it Friday morning and even though I'm usually a stickler for historical accuracy, I could like it and appreciate it. As for the music, both modern and 18th century music is used throughout. I thought the modern music mostly works where it is placed. This film doesn't pretend to be historically accurate totally. I found it lots of fun, but to get it all, you should know your history going in. The costumes are far more accurate, than say, the 1938 version of Marie Antoinette or the 1922 silent Orphans of the Storm. Of course, everything is filtered through what is attractive now the year the film was made but the candy box colors for Versailles really works. Also we get to see a little of what MA's life was like at the Petit Trianon, which was Rousseau's vision of the rural pastoral, which I think, a film hasn't shown before. I just got Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution if you prefer pure history and the movie book of Marie Antoinette, which is the script and pics from the film, not the making of the film Marie Antoinette Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2
Well, I thought it was kind of fun, and I'm a stickler for costume authenticity. But it fit in with the mood of the whole presentation, since the older Cassanova scenes were costumed and set in a grimer reality while the past scenes were lit, set, costumed, and even dialogued differently. As if filtered through memory. Everything mostly lighter, brighter, and more outrageous. So it worked for me. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tudor Tailor arrived!
My copy of the Tudor Tailor arrived on my desk from Amazon.com this morning. Only have time for a short look, but it is stunning with scale patterns that are easy to read and clear, lovely pics of comtempory illustrations, finished and underconstruction garments from the skin out for not just the rich, but for working class and merchant class as well. The section on headwear and how it make it alone is worth the price of the book. Also included is a guide to choosing materials, a color sample of modern yarns dyed in reproduced dyes available in the 16th century. A book well worth waiting for. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] An interesting book find.
The September issue of Vogue is just out on newsstands and as well as being the usual massive Fall Fashion issue, it has Kirsten Dunst on the cover in full regalia as Marie Antoinette in the upcoming movie. There is a multipage spread on MA's life, which includes large and small pics of some of the actors as shot within the environs of Versailles. Costumes look pretty accurate, but since people behind the movie have already admitted they updated the look to appeal to the modern audience, it should be fun to play separate fact from modern fantasy while watching the film. Always a fun game to play while watching any historically-set film or TV show that is good or bad, especially bad. Of course Versailles will be a super-clean and sparkling that never existed in the 18th century. Well, historically-correct-wise, it can't be more off than the Norma Shearer Marie Antoinette There is also an excerpt from the upcoming book on Marie Antoinette's influence on fashion What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution You can preorder it as I already have from BN or Amazon. And there will also be a making of the movie book. There is a third spread with Dunst in several majorally fantastic fantasy fashions commissioned by Vogue from different top of the fashion house mountain denizens, again photographed around Versailles. Apparently, the original Marie Antoinette perfume has also been reimagined and produced by a tres famous French perfumer. If you have a mere $500 laying around doing rien, you can have the mere mortals edition. For $8,000+ you can grab the exclusive flacon for those with unlimited clothing funds from the treasury. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
Think how much futurists will be horrified by all the polyester/nylon, and other synthetic fabricated clothing we tossed out that will still be living in landfills! Especially all the 70's polyester. Lived then. Wore that. Rule one: Don't ever buy white 70's polyester! Ever! How will they judge clothing made from finite resources(like oil, etc) versus renewable resources? How will they view the great use of fur and leather standing alongside the great number of PETA and other animal protection agencies? And will in a century or so, be able to custom order our clothing via a Star Trek replicator? I know that one did food, but where did all the clothes come from? There had to be a clothing replicator on board. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Sept Vogue magazine cover.
It has not yet hit the newsstands, but it looks like the September cover of Vogue magazine will have Kirsten Dunst costumed in the title role of the movie Marie Antoinette Signals a photospread inside that should have all of us on the list discussing the accuracy/inaccuracy of the costuming and movie aesthetics, making the stars look good, director's vision, and costume budget vs what is historically correct even before the movie hits our local multiplexes. And for some of us, before the book tie-in and/or DVD availability since the film may never arrive on our local movie screens. Promises to be lots of fun! Until then, brush up on 18th century fashion books, read or re-read Hollywood and History by Edward Maeder, and pre-order What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
Yes, the costumes were laughable, but the History Channel is on a budget, especially costume-wise. I caught a making-of...some Am Revolution series I think, and they do these shows or series on really small budgets and timeframes. When they are doing American Revolution or American Civil War they can get reinactors for troops to do it for free practically, so what you see for troops and background people is often more authentic garb and gear-wise than the front and center actors. For Pirates of the Carribean 2, Simplicity Patterns has a rough approximation of Keira Knightly's wedding dress and a Marie Antoinette gown in one of their Fall Preview patterns. Definitely for those that need a fairly quick costume to go as the female leads in PoC or upcoming Marie Antoinette film. Awaiting Martha McCain's rumoured 18th patterns for Simplicity. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
Thanks for the link, Dawn! Hmm--Wonder if Simplicity is going to do Regency-style gown and clothing patterns next? Not a lot of inexpensive, fairly accurate patterns out there. Noted that the far left pic in the trio of styles was taken from Heideloff's Gallery of Fashion so someone has been doing some serious research! Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
Yes, I noticed that right off. And said to myself that the Heideloff plate and Seriziat portrait are way too early for Regency. Well, unless one is dressing as Jane Austen's mom! And Mamma Austen would probably not have been caught dead in any of the three bonnets shown. I suggested to Dover Publications a few years' back when the craze for all things Jane Austen was at its height that they might want to consider publishing a selection of plates from The Gallery of Fashion due to its rarity, beauty, and the general ignorance of fashion development between 1785 and 1805. A good deal of that time being passed over, just like the fashions of World War I, is that they are seen as transitional and awkward to modern eyes. I think often that 1790-1810 fashions are just all grouped under Regency, just because the general public is supposedly too dumb to know what Revolutionary, Directorie, or Empire fashion is. I can hear the pitch now: Hey, just group it all under Regency, because enough people will think Regency Novel or Jane Austen or something if they are sophisticated enough to know what Regency roughly means. And snickers from us who know that Regency is 1810-1820 strictly speaking. Or might even ask which Regency Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dangerous liaisons 2004 exhibition
Yes, I bought this book at Amazon.com this spring. The publication kept getting pushed back for some reason. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kate M Bunting Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Dangerous liaisons 2004 exhibition Looking in the archives, I see this exhibition was discussed at the time, and the catalogue was said to be expected in 2005. A copy has just turned up on my desk for cataloguing (dated 2006!), and it is indeed a beautiful book, with many 18th century paintings and prints as well as photos of the exhibition, in which mannequins were dressed in costume and posed in dramatic scenes in 18th century interiors. The ISBN is 0300107145. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Europa Trims: they're baaaack! Sort of...
My local JoAnn's and Hancock's are both more oriented towards what you mentioned and the yarns are on a back wall near the clearance items. There are a few more basic yarns in mine. It is what sells, and until more people ask for natural fibers, that is what the chains are going to sell. I used to find more real silks and silk rayon brocades at JoAnns and Hancock/Northwest Fabrics, but not in recent years, since a small designer fabric shop in Omaha(JJ Fabrics)closed some time ago. When the owners of small stores retire or close, it actually seems to allow the chains to drop quality goods, rather than carry them. With fewer spending $$, consumers can't afford to pay the extra for quality. If polyester is still a petroleum-based fiber, shouldn't the cost of gas push its price up so that wools and cottons and silks be a tad more competitive price-wise? Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 9:37 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Europa Trims: they're bck! Sort of... My local joAnns is more oriented toward the polar fleece, 'cutesy' quilting stuff, yard decorations and dried flower arrangements. The yarn dept is located BEHIND the Clearance items. And all they stock there is the newest novelty yarn and baby yarn and dishcloth cotton. BLEAGH!! To get real fabric I have to day-trip to NYC and visit several stores that specialize in linen. However I haven't found one with good quality wool in a light enough weight to satisfy me. (also, most of the wools I can find are either too much $$$ or have 50% poly) Katheryne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Home dec and quilting remain about the same. Crafts has been expanded to include a bunch of yarn, although there are a lot of holes in that section, and the framing area seems bigger, too. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Europa Trims: they're baaaack! Sort of...
I've noticed it at my JoAnns too! But it is far from the range of Europa trims that JoAnn's used to carry, just perhaps the best sellers. Also, I also saw some blank spaces in aisles, that doesn't match up to the usual vacant spots awaiting Christmas merchandise. I think JoAnn's is getting ready to move in some new and different merchandise, but I can't think what. In my particular JoAnn's(Omaha, NE)all those Destination India fabrics didn't sell well, just a few particular patterns, for example. With the increasing cost of gas hitting everything, I think we are going to see a trend of less up-to-the minute fashion and more styles and fabrics that will last more than a single season. I'm hearing more I'm not making you that or I'm not buying that fabric/trim from moms and grandmothers to their daughters and granddaughters lately. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Simplicity early autumn catalog
It may not be at your local fabric store yet, but is up at www.simplicity.com This is for those of us who wait for those $1.99 pattern sales because we want to put all of our ever-shrinking optional funds into fabric and trims. The new early Autumn catalog is up and there are a few patterns of interest. One appears to be a modified take on Johnny Depp's costume in Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory Another is a kimono pattern(may be older pattern with a new number and the same for a Colonial/Marie Antoinette(Sophia Coppola film due out this fall.) Cut on gown is definitely modern--hope Martha McCain or someone has more accurate patterns out soon! There is also a circa 1895 ball gown that looks decent from the small online pic. McCalls, Butterick and Vogue still have Summer 2006 catalogs up. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Simplicity early autumn catalog
Thanks for the head's up on the Simplicity sale--I had not looked at my JoAnn's circular, since a new mailman missed my mailbox with it and I had to clean and dry mine. JoAnn's might be a good place to head tomorrow, since we have the College World Series here in Omaha, starting this weekend. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:36 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity early autumn catalog [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: And JoAnne's has the Simplicity patterns on sale $1.99 right now... Elena/Gia LOL! You beat me to it. They're on sale today and tomorrow (June 16 17) and there's also a 50% off sale on notions, scissors, and thread, and interfacing is 4 yds/96 cents. Two days only. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Hand crank, treadle machines--where to look; what to pay?
Being allergic to homeec, I passed on my grandmother's hand crank/treadle machine when I had a chance 30+ year's ago. Due to a mild disability, electric machines give me trouble when sewing for dolls. Can you still find any for a reasonable price, or are reproductions being made? Or should I get a Tardis and go back to 1975 and snatch my grandmother's? Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Another Hancock's closing
Hancock's is part of a bigger corporation and if a store doesn't meet a certain profit margin, it gets closed. Wonder if Hancock's chain owners have changed in recent years--I've seen this happen here in Omaha when long-time independent or small chain stores voluntary sell controlling interests to a corporation. Sometimes, some stores get closed immediately; in others I've seen selections get fewer and/or who the heck is choosing this stuff that no one would want to buy--crosses my mind. Therefore, these stores stop attracting paying customers and then don't meet their profit margins. In the big business world, closing unprofitable stores, whether actual or created deliberately, is a tax write-off. Notice if your favorite chain fabric store isn't what is used to be for selection or not. The real owners may want to close it, forcing customers to drive further to another store in the chain, or go online. Like we are going to buy all of our fabric online--sometimes you do have to see, feel(and smell)fabric for real before laying out big bucks! Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
I would like to see the film, but living in Omaha, NE, I may have to wait for the video. It may be one of the films I watch just to see where accuracy in history and costuming goes out the window in favor of present-day esthetics. But sometimes those movies are fun, anyway. I did preorder the book about the making of the film from Amazon.com, but wonder now if it will even be published, stateside, if the movie promises to tank. I wonder if the movie will be tinkered with between what was seen at Cannes and what we may see in October. From the brief clips and the online preview it looks as though the costumes are fairly accurate, but amped up in glamour to look attractive to present-day eyes. And, of course, there's nary a speck of dust to be seen! Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Simplicity 4156 - 1895
I have this pattern; picked it up at the latest $1.99 sale. The blouse/vest is faux and attached somehow to the jacket. For a commercial pattern, the style and cut of the jacket is pretty impressive. But you gotta be tall to pull off that mid 1890's look! The skirt is a bit weird in the picture. I haven't looked at the actual pattern pieces, but from the look of the skirt on the model, the possibility is 1)the proper petticoats and little bustle pad aren't being worn underneath and/or 2) the skirt is of too lightweight a fabric and not lined or interlined sufficiently to hold both the shape and the trimming. I believe the intent of the pattern is for stage production and or for turn-of-the-century celebrations many towns and cities hold in the summer. It is probably a replacement for an older Simplicity pattern that was a kind of 1898-1901 Belle Epoque style. There were three views: two blouse/skirt combinationations and a nautical top and skirt. I am hoping to see some new patterns from Martha McCain in the Simplicity collection, or something really 18th c, Directorie, or Regency in cut. Since the Titanic craze is done and Martha McCain covered the Civil War era so well, I'd like to see more authentic patterns for other eras made for a wider audience. Some of the current RenFaire type offerings can be altered to a more authentic cut, for those of us without in person access to shops carrying authentic patterns and fabrics--and when you are choosing patterns and fabrics, there are times when you need to look at the patterns, and handle fabrics and trims, not depend on the 'Net. McCalls and Butterick are due for their summer pattern books, so they might have some offerings as well. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
