[h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 10:59:00 -0500 From: Dawn Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations otsisto wrote: The other day someone said that they were talking to someone from Hobby Lobby and that if Walmart does away with their fabrics then HL will follow suit. I tend to doubt that. Hobby Lobby caters to the quilting hobby and the home dec folks -- both a big part of their craft store business. They sell patterns, but they never really supplied dressmaker fabrics, so if people aren't sewing clothing, it's not really hurting them. Quilting is still very big. Wal-Mart tries to be all things to all people. Unless it's the only retail store in town -- and it is in much of rural America -- it's not the first place anyone thinks to go for dress fabric. And clothing is so cheap there I can almost see why their customers would give up sewing. (But maybe not alterations). Dawn Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend on location. The Walmart here (NW WA) has a somewhat diverse craft department, carries a limited selection of patterns and I haven't seen any fabric there that I would want to make clothing from unless it was a one time use/halloween costume type thing. It seems to cater to quilters and home crafters. However, my MIL used to be the fabric/craft department manager for a Walmart in Utah and she says they sold a lot of dress fabric. I can't imagine they would eliminate the fabric in a location that had decent sales. Annette T - Never miss an email again! Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it out. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: photographer photos of the anglaise dress
Gorgeous! And so nice to finally see it on a real person. I'm happy that you finally got some pictures of it being worn. Annette T Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 17:55:38 +0100 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Subject: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress. Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of Henriette wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She looks so nice in it! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm Bjarne - Bored stiff? Loosen up... Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Trying to find fabric from last year - somewhat OT
I'm trying to find some decorator fabric that was part of Joann's 2005/06 collection (pre-Christopher Lowell). Last year I bought just enough of this fabric for my wedding dress/sideless surcotte from Joann's decorator fabric department. I would love to find more, however that must have been a very popular color as I can find the fabric at Joann's, but none left in the right color. I've googled every way I can think of, and come up with similar things, but without a swatch I don't want to buy. I don't want to cut up my wedding dress, but have discovered that we chose virtually the same color in paint for our living/dining room trim and I would love to make some throw pillows and accessories from the same stuff. I thought I wrote it down correctly in my notes - but am not sure. It is a cotton, jacquard/brocade 54 fabric called either Zemadia or Zemaida - but could be with an 'N' - Zenadia and the color is blueberry. It does not look like what I would consider blueberry color, it is definitely blue, but not a purplish-blue. Does anyone have any ideas/resources/suggestions? Thanks Annette T - Be a PS3 game guru. Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)
Wet??!! November unofficial measurement at our house was 8 1/2 inches before the 2 feet of snow. We got it pretty bad with the first storm this year. Fortunately power not out at both houses at the same time (still remodeling and moving!) Not so bad this last one, just a few blinks of the lights, but you folks in the Seattle area sure got pounded. Still, more branches to pick up out of the yeard. Driving home from shopping during the second - not so bad - storm with MIL we got to see this bright blue glowing ball of light hang over the road ahead for several seconds - not the typical transformer flash - it was very strange. Big storm about 12 years ago? Would that have been 11? Winter of 95-96 left 3' of snow in my yard for weeks. The following year not as much snow but very wet and heavy brought down a lot of barn rooves. Hope everyone is safe and sound now. Annette T in very soggy Bellingham original message Message: 10 Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 17:20:15 -0800 From: Elisabeth Doornink [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy) Would that have been 1990? Because I was 3 months old during that storm (can you believe it!) and we moved out of the house we were renting for a week to my Grandmother's - we were loosing 5 degrees an hour inside and pack up when the cat's water froze. INSIDE. My grandparents had a stove that the water was plumbed into and the water was gravity fed, so they had it pretty good, even though the transformer blew. Our friends, on the other hand, were housebound for a week due to huge trees. They had a stick penetrate their roof - my dad's picture of it is really amazing. There is just a stick straight through their roof to the inside. It gives me a huge respect for the families that moved here, especially from places like Norway and Finland, where my ancestors lived. They moved here (to the land we live on now) sometime around 1895. To brave the wet and rain and dry in the summer to farm for a living in this rocky soil...amazing. Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, Elisabeth -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of LuAnn Mason Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:10 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy) Oil lamps and candle lanterns were the order of the day for us as well, or should I say the night. Most of our county (Clark) lost power at some point, but we were only down about three hours. Our first year in the Pacific Northwest about 12 years back, we had a nasty February ice storm that toppled big trees in our neighborhood and left us without power for five days. When it came time to buy the house, I made sure there were NO BIG TREES close enough to fall on us. What I gave up in ambience more than pays off in peace of mind. LuAnn in Vancouver - Original Message - From: Elisabeth Doorninkmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume'mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:48 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy) We had a large rotten maple tree fall on a row boat owned by my cousin, and our power was out for about 30 minutes. But the tree is going to be a huge mess to clean up. We stayed up for hours watching the light show of transformers - and were very thankful that ours is on the ground and we live on a highway that has a main powerline. We were a bit worried, though, because both our septic field and well are uphill from us...water becomes an issue. Yes, we have a creek and the bay in front of us...but still. Very thankful in Poulsbo for power and praying for those who don't! (Your comment about being a SCAdian made me laugh - we're set because my dad kayaks and has tons of gear!) Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, Elisabeth -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:07 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy) It's been a bit dampish here lately...(mocking grin) and I'm ever so glad that Nick and I went into debt on getting a new roof this year with the wind and rainstorms we've been having. My son has 4 staples in his head from the weather causing an accident at school, but is otherwise ok-and I'll have lots of fence/yard repairs to do, but otherwise we're ok. I have to do this at work, as I have no contact with the outer world at home other than my cell phone. Between that and the problems my baking has been giving me this week, I've come *THIS* close to opening up my pretty purple package from the gift exchange (which arrived 11/23!) instead of waiting until the 23rd for our Yule (Teren goes
RE: [h-cost] WW1 Ladies fashions
Hi Penny, My Grandparents were married in England in 1916. I have a newspaper clipping picture taken at the time scanned into my 'other' computer. I can't access it right now, but from what I recall my grandmother was not wearing a wedding dress, but rather what I would refer to as a 'day dress' or suit. It is above the ankles, but also does not look quite like what is shown in those illustrations. (it also could be that she is wearing a coat over the whole thing, as it was February.) I am not very familiar with the styles and terminology of that period, but the dress (coat?) its self reminds me more of the dropped waist style of the 20's but the skirt seems somewhat on the narrow side, whereas her hat is huge - almost Gibson Girl in style. If you are interested I can email you a copy of the clipping. Just let me know so I can have my husband to switch computers so I can access my files. Annette T - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
Message: 3 Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:50:31 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian In a message dated 8/15/2006 5:56:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Most people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as they're reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from now. So I should carefully preserve this old ratty bathrobe for posterity?? Sorry, I couldn't resist! - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
Message: 6 Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:56:41 -0400 From: Lauren Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian On Aug 16, 2006, at 11:31 AM, Kahlara wrote: Most people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as they're reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from now. So I should carefully preserve this old ratty bathrobe for posterity?? Sorry, I couldn't resist! Absolutely. WITH the bunny slippers. Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ack! I didn't realize I had a hidden web cam aimed at my feet!! LOL - Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make to wear in the heat
These remind me of a pair of pants my mother made for me years ago for a Christmas party. They were yellow silk with a blue print of giraffes and such. I looked on the Patterns from the Past site and found two possibilities for the one she used. Both are from 1972 - Simplicity 5124 wrap and tie shorts and pants, and Butterick 6720 - wrap and go pantskirt. I really liked them and don't remember my legs showing at all, so it probably was the butterick that she used. The term pantskirt does sound familiar. btw - I had not heard of that website before, thanks Cynthia! Message: 10 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:28:27 -0700 From: Cin Subject: [h-cost] OT - what do you make to beat the heat Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather? I have a favorite vintage 1969 scooter skirt pattern that I found a few years ago when a vintage pattern library in Rhode Island was selling off excess stock. I tried to find it on http://www.oldpatterns.com, but Misch is out of stock on it currently. It's SImplicity 8397, view 5, tho look carefully, as Simplicity re-used the number on a different 1-hour shorts pattern. Modernly, scooter skirts are called skorts, which sounds horrible, but is an excellent combo of skirt shorts. I just bought lots of yardage to make some more. One print has French perfume bottles, another is Poiret fashion drawings from 1913 or so, another is the Tour Eiffel repeated all-over... and about 7 more selections. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message: 2 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:21:51 -0500 From: Betsy Marshall Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make towear in the heat? This might help a bit.. http://www.mediatinker.com/blog/archives/008262.html -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of katherine sanders Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:43 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make towear in the heat? OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're 'traditional' ;-) Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored whereas the originals are 'free-size'. I found a few references on the web, in case you've no idea what I'm talking about. http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329 Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather? Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright Message: 8 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:39:50 + (GMT) From: katherine sanders Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT Thai Fisherman trousers Email me off list if you are interested. Sheridan P. Thanks - will do! They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged trousers, joined at the crotch and inside legs only. You then take the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks and eyes here. Pick up the front part and tie them at the back, overlapping the back at the sides. (You can do this the other way around - I find this way easiest.) Suzi That explains everything - thanks again! I'm going to find some cheapo stuff to practice on and some nice linen to make smarter ones... I have seen it done also where people have sort of extended the bottom hem of the pants to make ties at the ankles so that the legs don't flap open or get in the way. Natalie Now there's a thought! Can immediately think of /several/ situations where my Scottish pale-blue thigh would not be an appropriate thing to flash Thanks to all for your help, amazingly useful and informative as always. I know it's quite cheap to buy them but that feels like a bit of a cop out, somehow! Katherine (in front of a fan with feet in a basin of cold water. oh that's better...) - Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Changes at Joann's- (was Europa trims)
Were Europa Trims the ones that had the gorgeous, wide trims that actually looked like they were worth the price?! I was trying to find a nice quality satin at the local (Bellingham, WA) Joann's the other day and was getting frustrated because I just couldn't find what I really wanted. It must have really shown on my face because a woman with what looked like a nice print fabric looked up as she passed me, paused and said Exactly! This Joann's has about 3 aisles of clearanced stuff in the quilting department in addition to the regular clearance aisles and it isn't all quilting fabric. As always, the regular fabric selection has a dearth of quality fabrics. I didn't notice much blank space in the fabric dept, (actually couldn't get through some of the aisles) but it looks like there are some holes in the craft department. They've already made some changes - bringing in some Christopher Lowell decorator fabrics (attach a name so they can charge more for the same stuff!) There is already far too much of the seasonal cutesie junk and four aisles of 'decorator' accessories such as boxes, baskets and mini trunks that all have that euro-asian fusion look to them. I wish they were going to bring in some more classic and natural fabrics but I'm afraid that they'll assume since things aren't moving people aren't sewing and not realize it is just because people don't want what they havewhy sew a bunch of polyester junk when you could buy the same stuff - if you wanted it - ready made for less. Annette M -- Message: 10 Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 17:00:49 -0500 From: Abel, Cynthia Subject: RE: [h-cost] Europa Trims: they're bck! Sort of... I've noticed it at my JoAnns too! But it is far from the range of Europa trims that JoAnn's used to carry, just perhaps the best sellers. Also, I also saw some blank spaces in aisles, that doesn't match up to the usual vacant spots awaiting Christmas merchandise. I think JoAnn's is getting ready to move in some new and different merchandise, but I can't think what. In my particular JoAnn's(Omaha, NE)all those Destination India fabrics didn't sell well, just a few particular patterns, for example. With the increasing cost of gas hitting everything, I think we are going to see a trend of less up-to-the minute fashion and more styles and fabrics that will last more than a single season. I'm hearing more I'm not making you that or I'm not buying that fabric/trim from moms and grandmothers to their daughters and granddaughters lately. Cindy Abel -- Message: 11 Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 17:58:48 -0500 From: Dawn Subject: Re: [h-cost] Europa Trims: they're bck! Sort of... Abel, Cynthia wrote: I've noticed it at my JoAnns too! But it is far from the range of Europa trims that JoAnn's used to carry, just perhaps the best sellers. I'm hoping that Wrights will pick up more of the line, but let's face it, a lot of sewers are concerned about cost, and those fancy trims aren't the cheapest thing out there. Also, I also saw some blank spaces in aisles, that doesn't match up to the usual vacant spots awaiting Christmas merchandise. I think JoAnn's is getting ready to move in some new and different merchandise I noticed the blank spots, too. Some had signs on them announcing changes. There's a blurb in the current flyer saying You'll love what's coming. There's change in progress at your favorite Joann's store! If you love fabrics sewing, you love us for being the best... If you love crafting, you'll love what we're doing for you. Discover the difference soon! Which says to me We're moving in more craft junk. , but I can't think what. In my particular JoAnn's(Omaha, NE)all those Destination India fabrics didn't sell well, A lot of what I saw was synthetic, makes my skin itch. Some of it I could have used for exotic/middle eastern inspired costumes if it had been a natural fiber, not like I don't already have a closet full of dance costumes. I think we are going to see a trend of less up-to-the minute fashion and more styles and fabrics that will last more than a single season. I hope so. I haven't bought anything but notions since before Christmas. I prefer classic, natural fabrics, not just for historic costuming. Dawn -- Message: 12 Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 20:07:24 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Europa Trims: they're bck! Sort of... In a message dated 6/19/2006 6:01:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I think JoAnn's is getting ready to move in some new and different merchandise, but I can't think what. Just visited the largest JoAnn's in our area, and it has been completely remodeled. The apparel fabrics seem to be a fraction of what they used to be. Home dec and quilting remain about the same. Crafts has been expanded to
[h-cost] Re: Scientific explanation of my addiction
Uh oh - count me as a member of the latter group. On the rare occasion I leave the fabric store without anything at all, it is because I am on a mision for something specific, can't find it, and have my FI in tow - hence no time to browse as we are off to the next location to search. Otherwise though, he will browse with me and has even said in response to my hesitation over buying something just because I like it - Why don't you get you some? He is definitely a keeper! He also picked out the fabric for his ionar and can sew - or so his mother says. I am a pattern hoarder too! :-( Annette M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 5 Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 23:29:38 +1000 From: Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Scientific explaination of my addiction - Original Message - From: REBECCA BURCH [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 4:59 AM Subject: [h-cost] Scientific explaination of my addiction snip Sound tests have also revealed that these fabrics emit a very high-pitched sound, heard only by a select few, a breed of women known as quilters. snip I think we need to extend this theory, obviously different fabrics are emitting different frequencies and each sewer is sensitive to different frequencies, you see the quilting cottons have never spoken to me but brocades and silks frequently do. Some become quilters because they are sensitive to the frequency emitted by quilting cottons while others become costumers because silk cries out to them piteously. Then there are the poor souls who can hear the sound of all types of fabric and they do quilting, historic costuming, mundane sewing and can't possibly leave a fabric shop without something because one of their addictions will catch them. :-) Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: another addiction - was hand crank, treadle machines
You mean collecting sewing machines is an addiction too?! If so then I am in the early stages. I think I have four or five - my mother's old electric, my own 70's vintage singer, and the new one my FI bought for me a couple of years ago. I have also discovered an old cabinet machine - or perhaps just the cabinet - in the back of the barn but I haven't been able to get to it yet so I don't know if it is treadle or electric or just an empty cabinet. And if I remember right there is one in the basement too. (Just inherited my parent's farm) Someone I know has an old cabinet electric with the knee lever instead of a foot pedal because I can remember using one. I am always drawn to old treadle machines if I see one in an antique store. I especially like the ones with the fancy wrought iron legs and treadle. My FI will probably try to nip this one in the bud though. Sewing machines are a bit harder to hide than the fabric stash! Annette M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 5 Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 15:54:24 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hand crank, treadle machines--where to look; what to pay? In a message dated 6/9/2006 1:19:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I still embarassingly have 18 sewing machines. *** do they, too, give off certain Pheromones that actually hypnotize women ...? Message: 9 Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 17:12:29 -0400 From: Megan M. Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hand crank, treadle machines--where to look; what to pay? Sarah Patterson wrote: I still embarassingly have 18 sewing machines. Reply: Only 18? My husband wishes I had only 18. Anybody in the DC/ MD metro suburbs interested in an antique machine head or two? I really do need to downsize.. -Megan Message: 12 Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 17:53:13 -0400 From: Natalie [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hand crank, treadle machines--where to look; what to pay? Haha, want another? I've been trying to get rid of an older White electric for some time and don't seem to be in a good area for it. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: OT: meeting at SUNY Stony Brook
Another resounding yes for going to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I was able to go once - for about half a day - and it wasn't nearly long enough. I'd love to go back even if that was the only thing I had time for. Annette M Message: 6 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 22:16:46 -0400 From: Susan B. Farmer Subject: [h-cost] OT: meeting at SUNY Stony Brook And for another subject If I can pull it off (and it will probably take an act of God), I want to go to the Evolution Meeting at the end of the month (June 23-27) at SUNY Stony Brook. Apologies to those of you who may see this more than once ... I've *never* been to New York. If there was only *one* thing that you would do while in NY -- fiber/garb/SCA general related (and the symposium that I need to attend is Saturday Morning), what would you do? Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ -- Message: 7 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 22:31:12 -0400 From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: meeting at SUNY Stony Brook To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=response Metropolitan Museum of Art. And, since the Cloisters are part of it, it's not really cheating on the *one*-thing rule to tell you to go there too :-) -- Message: 8 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 22:36:07 -0400 From: Susan B. Farmer Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: meeting at SUNY Stony Brook Quoting Audrey Bergeron-Morin : Metropolitan Museum of Art. And, since the Cloisters are part of it, it's not really cheating on the *one*-thing rule to tell you to go there too :-) *giggle* That was something that I was seriously thinking about. I hate to go That Far to a place where so much cool stuff is, and *not* do something! Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ -- Message: 11 Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 22:45:49 -0400 From: monica spence Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: meeting at SUNY Stony Brook Go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Finish the Symposium and take the Long Island Rail Road from Stony Brook Station to NY Penn Station (That train is going WEST) Get off Take a taxi to the Met. The subways and busses go up there , but unless you know where you are going, it is worth the extra money for the taxi. ONE THING: I took students up there once and they did not one allow her to bring in her rolling suitcase into the building. (Post 9/11 security) If you have a hotel room, or can send it ahead, you will be much better off. I carry shopping bags and open totes in all the time . There is a coat and bag check that is free. There are unbelievable amounts of stuff to see. There is also a new exhibition about English fashion. Of course there is the Arms and Armor exhibit. and the Western European paintings, and the Medieval section that goes on for days If I was not in Pennsylvania for Grad school that week, I'd volunteer to play guide, since I live on Long Island. You do yourself a dis-service if you don't see the Met, but then there is the JP Morgan Library on Madison Ave, with its huge collection of illuminated manuscripts (look, do not touch, The Frick collection with its FAB paintings well you know. Probably way too much to see. There is also a new exhibit on tailoring at the museum at FIT on 7th Ave and 28th St. Free. And you can walk from Penn Station. One thing... if you DO make it to the Met, watch the prices on books. I have gotten huge discounts through Amazon on the same books. (I am sure there is a built-in donation for the museum in their prices.) Have a great time, Susan!!! Monica -- Message: 12 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 23:10:56 -0400 From: Susan B. Farmer Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: meeting at SUNY Stony Brook To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Quoting monica spence : Go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Finish the Symposium and take the Long Island Rail Road from Stony Brook Station to NY Penn Station (That train is going WEST) Get off Take a taxi to the Met. The subways and busses go up there , but unless you know where you are going, it is worth the extra money for the taxi. Thanks! Just the sort of information that I need. Sounds like I want to take a whole day for the Met. If I was not in Pennsylvania for Grad school that week, I'd volunteer to play guide, since I live on Long Island. Well bummer! That would just be too cool. Good luck with school! I've to to finish the rest of my results and hope to present a poster if I can pull this off! You do yourself a dis-service if you don't see the Met, but then
[h-cost] Re: another Hancock's closing/US farbric stores
Have never been to a Hancock's and didn't even know there were any in Washington state. I'll be travelling to Bremerton this week though, so will make a point of checking it out. The Joanne's here (Bellingham, WA) has become largely a craft and quilting store. The quilting fabric consists of a good 1/4 of all the fabric in stock floor space wise, with home decorating fabrics taking the majority. Apparel fabric is pretty specific with a whole wall of fleece, bridal and formal satins and such, and baby prints - the rest is mostly a small selection of seasonal changes with a high percent of synthetic fabrics that end up getting rotated into the clearance racks. They do have a huge yarn department though. Before Joanne's went through the whole reorganization thing we had a couple of good fabric stores, one of which was exclusively fabrics, notions, etc. I can't remember the name, but one of them was House of Fabrics. Joanne's used to have a much better selection for apparel fabric too. Outside of Joanne's the only fabric stores locally are all quilting shops. I have gotten the majority of my fabric on line recently, which I don't like doing because I prefer to see fabric in person before buying, but I've been lucky so far as to really liking what I have bought. Annette M Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 18:55:37 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Stash Enhancement Possibilities Message: 1 Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 17:15:36 -0700 From: Stephen Subject: [h-cost] Stash Enhancement Possibilities Good news, bad news, and more bad news. The good news is that Hancock Fabrics at 7900 Florin Road in Sacramento CA has everything marked off at least 30%. The bad news is that the sale is because they are closing up the store. So this is a good chance to stock up on notions and staples as well as getting some nice fabric and yarn at a good price. The more bad news is that the reason the store is closing is because the area is not that safe. They have an armed guard in the store. So I would not plan on going after dark. Don't know how long this sale is going to last, but the first ones there get the best bones! Stephen Bergdahl That's very interesting, and somewhat disconcerting. The Hancock Fabrics in Bremerton, Washington (on Wheaton Way) is also closing, and also has everything currently at 30% off. No real excuse why the store is closing, but it just isn't doing well. It's in a poor area. Not outright unsafe, but sort of grungy-commercial. Lots of discount type stores nearby. I sure hope this doesn't indicate something worse in store for the future of Hancocks. Julie - Be a chatter box. Enjoy free PC-to-PC calls with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: When and how did you start making costume?
I remember from a young age having a dress-up closet made up of less than perfect vintage clothes my mother had picked up at the second hand store. There was one very yellow gown made of either silk or satin with a tulle overskirt and lace over the bodice that I remember well. So I guess I was interested in costume early on. My mother also made my costumes for ballet recitals, horse shows and halloween as well as some every day clothes, so she helped start my interest in sewing and making costumes. I used to make crude doll clothes, and as it was the fashion at the time, crochet ponchos for my barbie dolls out of doilies. My mom was just beginning to teach me to machine sew when she died so I am mostly self taught, scorning Home-Ec class to take drafting, and wood and metal shop. I've dabble in costume somewhat, even had a load of fun designing the set and costumes for a theoretical production of Much Ado About Nothing for a class in college, but it is only recently that I have gotten really interested in doing truely accurate period costume. And I have 4 cats, 2 horses, 2 gold fish and 1 dog. The cats provide way too much supervision and quality control. Annette M - Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: My latest gig!
Very cool !! Congratulations. Any idea if the exhibit will be coming to Seattle or anywhere near it? Annette M Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 11:05:41 -0700 From: Saragrace Knauf Subject: [h-cost] My latest gig! I do, I do! The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum from Amsterdam! Whe! I am s exited. I hope like heck they ask me to do the Kitchen Maid by Vermeer. They even said there would be funds since they realized it could be very expensive!! http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/ Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything by announcing it!) - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Wedding clothes! I know the styles are from several different periods, but I'm about the only one that will actually be there that knows this. 2 or 4 linen men's 'tunics' - rather modified from the leine as they are only for this one time 1 - ionar/kilcommon jacket adaption - also for just this one time, although I suspect he will really like it and want to wear it again when I haul him to some SCA events :-D 1 or 2 pair of trousers 1 or 2 semi-heraldic tabards 4 - linen chemises 4 - underdresses 2 - fitted overgowns with short sleeves and tippets 1 - overdress/tabard thing (adapted from the gold brocade 15th c. florentine gown in braun and schneider) 1 - sideless surcotte - I almost bought a silver fox jacket at the second hand store for trimming this one, but it was in such perfect condition I knew I couldn't bring myself to cut it apart, and I really want a shorter fur for this if I use one. I am having three of the underdresses (should really be GFD's) made from commercial patterns for a couple of reasons. 1. my honor attendant really hasn't any use for a period dress 2. my flower girl/usherette is going to grow out of hers before too long 3. I haven't found anyone that gets the idea of the GFD enough to help me with mine - nor have I been able to find a fabric that I like well enough to do the extra work (really good lightweight wool is very difficult to find around here, and I hate to order online sight unseen) 4. I like the allegorical look for this and that will be easier to do messing with a modern pattern style that I am more familiar with. Oh - and about a dozen 'silk' pennants in various colors taken from our different families' 'supposed' coat of arms. And yes, I have help with all this sewing! Annette M Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 00:15:03 -0400 From: Catherine Olanich Raymond Subject: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??) On Saturday 20 May 2006 5:06 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote: Sure! Always! I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them peripherally (sp?) associated with historical costuming, Wow, neat stuff, Sue! Since nothing else is going on here, this may be a good time for people to talk about their current costume/textile-related projects. Let's see. What am I working on now? Ignoring the stuff that's gotten pushed so far down the list it's a misrepresentation to claim I'm working on it at the moment, we have: * A Viking apron dress of the same style as the reconstruction in the Danish National Museum (I forget the official name of the museum just now, sorry!) * A plain linen smock or two to wear with it and other period garb (none of my smocks are linen, and I'm trying to make my garb more properly historic.) * An ornamented shawl of a style found in Lithuanian digs dated to about the 10th century. * Teaching myself nalbinding so that I can eventually make myself a properly period pair of socks. My first project is a kind of floppy dome I'm trying to turn into a simple hat. * Remaking a classical Roman matron's tunic to be more period; * Making a stola (sleeveless overdress--*not* a shawl or stole, despite the name) to wear with the above. -- Cathy Raymond I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish. --General Fillmore (from The Tick, episode 2) - Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1cent;/min. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 391
Heather, I know you said you weren't ready for feedback yet, but wow. Great project. I took a quick look at the periods that interest me (12th-15th c.) and even the short bits of data you include have piqued my interest to do more indepth research in the future. I'm sure it also includes resources I would have never been able to access or even considered. I can't begin to imagine the time you have put into this, but thank you. Main page looks great too - very clear on your parameters and intent. Annette M Message: 11 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 00:38:02 -0700 From: Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Surviving Garments Database I really need to get to bed, so I'm not hitting all the lists with this announcement yet, but my searchable database of surviving garments up to 1500 is now available in useable form (although expect some minor aspects of the interface to change regularly in the next couple weeks). Check it out at: http://www.heatherrosejones.com/survivinggarments/index.html At some point I'll be interested in feedback, but since I _know_ it not only has a clunky interface at the moment, but needs some serious data clean-up, it would probably be better to wait for about a month and then see if the problems you've noticed are still there. Enjoy! Heather - New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Robin Netherton/GFD and other lectures
Yes! That is it. Thank you. I love that dress and hope to make one like it - next year -when all the wedding stuff is done and I've had time to breathe and play in some of my other hobbies. Annette M (soon to be T) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 18:44:42 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Netherton Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robin Netherton/GFD and other lectures To: Historical Costume Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Mon, 24 Apr 2006, Kahlara wrote: Wow, they were great. Very informative. I am sure she has saved me a lot of time, frustration and money. I'm glad I put off making my dress until after I went to the lectures. It also helped me narrow the period of everyone else's clothing, as most of the women have picked a variation of the GFD already! I'm so happy to hear this! I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures. The camera hates me and I have become used to that; every professional photographer I've been worked with has commented on it. (And people have been known to blurt out on first meeting, Wow, you look so much better than your pictures!) As long as I think they aren't misleading about the costumes, though, and they don't break any copyright laws, I'll be happy for you to post them after I've seen them. Robin - there was one painting you used for reference that depicted several sleeve types, including a woman kneeling in the background wearing a dark blue gown with white tippets. What is that painting/illumination? and is it easily found either online or in a book somewhere? I had a lot of sleeve examples, but only one I can think of with a kneeling woman with tippets; that would be the April calendar page from the Tres Riches Heures: http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/april.jpg Is that it? I believe this is the latest example, by far, that I've seen of tippets, which were out of fashion by a decade or two at the time of this painting (about 1410-15). It may be that this was a deliberate reference to a known person known to the patron (e.g. an older family member shown in her youth, or someone who had died earlier). I've never seen anyone discuss it, and I suspect that a costume archaism of a generation or less goes unnoticed by most art historians. --Robin - Yahoo! Mail goes everywhere you do. Get it on your phone. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: movies-things that make you cringe
Or watching a modern military action film with a vet. That is the completely wrong insignia... etc. Apparently A Few Good Men was pretty accurate with its uniforms. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:07:39 -0300 From: kelly grant Subject: [h-cost] Movies-things that make you cringe! but because of my DH the entire family is known to yell at the screen in any movie historical or modern PICK UP THE AMMO/WEAPON, as the good guy runs around ect... Our favourite thing to make us yell at the screen...Close the damn door! When the actor walks intoa building and leaves to door open, to be closed miraculously by someone else! It is getting better though, and so too are costumes in movies. Could you imagine if Hollywood were still costuming the way it did in the 1950's, then those 1810 dresses would have waistlines down around the hipline with gaps to show off the pierced midriff. ;-) I think it's because the public is becomming better educated about costume history, I also think that it will get better in the future too. Costume Literature has jumped tenfold since I left University, so have the skill levels of the majority of students. People are pushing themselves further and further, trying to find out how those garments were made and worn in history, not just trying to capture a look. Kelly Message: 6 Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 22:06:32 +1000 From: Elizabeth Walpole Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movies-things that make you cringe! - Original Message - From: kelly grant To: Historical Costume Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 9:07 PM Subject: [h-cost] Movies-things that make you cringe! but because of my DH the entire family is known to yell at the screen in any movie historical or modern PICK UP THE AMMO/WEAPON, as the good guy runs around ect... Our favourite thing to make us yell at the screen...Close the damn door! When the actor walks intoa building and leaves to door open, to be closed miraculously by someone else! It's not just costumers/historians who tell fictional characters when they're wrong, my Mum's a nurse and you can't get through any sort of medical drama without learning where they have taken liberties with the facts. Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/ - How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates. - New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Marie Antoinette/Knight's Tale
Snicker - I would expect that this will turn out to be silly and campy, (intended or not) and rarely presenting historical fact, although the costumes did look nice. (Or if it is good enough and popular may spur a trend in modern fashion?) The other possibility, although not likely, is that the music was provided with the trailer simply as an attention getter, and is not an essential part of the movie. I don't know anything about Sofia Coppola's directing style, but didn't she win some awards for Lost in Translation? I refused to watch A Knight's Tale for years because it was set to rock music. When I finally did see it I was pleasantly surprised that it was fun, and didn't take its self seriously. But the female lead's headdresses and hairstyles were freakish at times. Certainly not very accurate, but for nothing else to do on a rainy afternoon, provides a nice bit of fluff - or good background noise while cooking dinner or cleaning house. Annette M -- Message: 7 Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 00:14:30 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Subject: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette Hi I found this, and http://www.marieantoinette-lefilm.com/ Didnt they use wrong music for this? Or is it the new, that they want young people to get an interrest in history, and make it with rock music? I think i am getting old Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ -- Message: 9 Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 18:40:58 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:16:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hahahaha Well, they'll probably try to make her out to just be the misunderstood Paris Hilton of the French Court...all that running around and lying in the grass and stuff. Y'know, like Mozart was just a Classical rock star! :-P The clothes look 30-fold times better than Amadeus I must say. They look right good. I noticed several different styles. I wonder if they follow the time line or are just scattered throughout? -- Message: 13 Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 18:30:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Diana Habra Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette They did the same thing with A Knight's Tale. Decent story, fun characters and okay clothing but the music..Very rock and totally out of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend). It would have been great without the rock music and some of the questionable clothing Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi -- Message: 14 Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 21:19:00 -0500 From: Karen Heim Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette It won't play on my home computer, but IIRC from listening to it at work, it's New Order. Karen Dawn wrote: Does anybody know who performs the music they're playing in this teaser? Dawn -- Message: 15 Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 21:45:27 -0500 From: Land of Oz Subject: [h-cost] Knight's Tale They did the same thing with A Knight's Tale. Decent story, fun characters and okay clothing but the music..Very rock and totally out of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend). It would have been great without the rock music and some of the questionable clothing Now, see I thought the music and the medieval punk really MADE the movie. It would have been boring w/o it, IMO. Different strokes. Denise Iowa -- Message: 16 Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 14:52:15 +1200 From: Adele de Maisieres Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale They did the same thing with A Knight's Tale. Decent story, fun characters and okay clothing but the music..Very rock and totally out of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend). Now, see I thought the music and the medieval punk really MADE the movie. It would have been boring w/o it, IMO. Snerf. I thought they might as well have kept the jousting, plumped for a modern setting and achieved less net total anachronism. -- Adele de Maisieres - How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 280
I haven't yet established an SCA name and will be wearing modern garband will have my sometimes reticent, sometimes talk your ear off fiance in tow. Don't take it personally if he stands to one side and glowers. Annette M Message: 1 Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 20:27:13 -0800 From: Cynthia J Ley Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: this list And some of us will be in garb, while others won't. Stickers for the whole lot Good Plan. :-) Robin, we are so looking forward to your visit this weekend--it's all we've been talking about! :D Safe journeys, and see you soon. Arlys On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 20:01:54 -0600 (CST) Robin Netherton writes: On Tue, 21 Mar 2006, Wanda Pease wrote: I think we need to all wear a red H or something to identify the H-Costumers at the Lectures. Sounds like a lot of us will be there. I deputize you to bring some stickers or something for the h-cost people ;-) I have a class list, but it's all SCA names! So there are probably people on it that I know from h-cost, but I'm not making the connection. --Robin - Yahoo! Travel Find great deals to the top 10 hottest destinations! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: communication (was Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 269)
Message: 2 Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 09:33:59 -0800 From: Lavolta Press Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 269 Most of what I said was merely supporting statements for my main point, which I must not have made very clear...you can't expect or force others to live and operate by the same standards you hold yourself to. Having said all that--I only write to spec if you pay me. And you couldn't possibly pay me enough to use any emoticon, or to say never say never or some of the other pat phrases I see. I suppose I can't expect anyone else to write to my specs (as above). But I also have the right to say things the way I think is best. I am glad that you recognize this. It is very much a manner of communicating based on where you came from and how you were raised. For an example, my mother-in-law's use of y'all, constant spewing of malapropisms, and mispronounciation of simple words, i.e. Lie-berry, Walmark, drive me up a wall, but I don't take umbrage or try to hold her up to the standards of gramar and speech that I was raised with and still use. It is just where she comes from. In a social group you accept one another's differences with a smile. Communicating in the manner of this list leaves out the standard communication tools we have when speaking with someone in person or even on the phone. They are just words on a screen and not tempered by someone's tone of voice. So is every written communication, back to the days of clay tablets. Email is not new in that respect. It's just a letter. In basic truth, yes. But I still hold to my original comment that the nature of email, especially mailing lists such as this are not the same. The rapid nature of this written communication tool allows for virtually an immediate response, and so can allow for an absence of forethought before replying. If misunderstood, it is very simple to quickly provide more information, unlike traditional letter writing. People's expertise can, and should, be judged on what they say about any given subject at that given time. Not on whether they explicitly say I am an expert or I am not an expert. Whether the person thinks they are an expert or not is irrelevant, as is whether their friends think so. Also as I stated before, on a mailing list such as this it is more likely for one to be communicating with others that are unknown, or not known well, but not with the same protocols as when writing a business communication. This provides greater opportunity for misunderstanding or misinterpretation. To state 'in my opinion' or 'from what I have found' tells people that do not know me that I do not claim to have a huge well of knowledge on the subject. (There are subjects other than costuming in which I would not preface a comment that way, not that I think I am an expert there but do have years of experience and study others may not.) In my opinion may also be a defensive mechanism for some. As you commented on the nasty nature of most groups you have found on the internet, so many are willing to 'flame' another person with whom they disagree, rather than to engage in a discussion of opinions. Making an apology in advance of a opinion might be an attempt by some to disarm the person or persons most likely to want to engage in an argument rather than a beneficial discussion of thoughts and ideas. But I do agree that there are many women in general who are not as forthright nor display as high a degree of confidence as they should or could. As for using 'in my opinion' to preface a comment - personally, I am no expert, and based on what little research I have done any comments I have are merely an opinion based on that research. I know this. By saying 'in my opinion', I am stating in a short addenda This is what I think based on what I have learned so far. If anyone has more information I would love to hear it. Then it is up to me to accept any other information tossed my way. It also says I am not claiming to be an expert. I think this is a generally accepted interpretation of such comments. And of course, in a public group other people are likely to respond to whatever you have said. You don't need to explicitly give them the right to do so. You also don't need to accept everything everyone else says in the sense of agreeing with it. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Annette M - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: this list
Message: 9 Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 12:48:13 -0700 From: WickedFrau Subject: Re: [h-cost] this list Hi Julie, you can post pictures here if you like. You can create a new ablum. I sure wish someone would use it! I'll be attending Robin's lectures in Portland this weekend. With her permission I could post some pics? (I'm assuming she'll have a few examples to go with her topics) And of course, when the wedding costumes are all done I'll want to share, but that will have to wait til after June. http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?username=hcostume The userid is: indra2006 Sg Julie wrote: Maybe I'm just too used to the Yahoo groups, but does this list have a files, photos links section? Julie Annette M - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 269
Sigh.. Message: 12 Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:09:03 -0800 From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books Tone is not apparent on a list like this one, so I think it's important to spell out one's opinions and offer citations. major snippage I think it's better to define what's being qualified: These corset instructions work best for large busts (Opinions of what is a large bust vary greatly) rather than: These corset instructions work great for me, YMMV. Having said all that--I only write to spec if you pay me. And you couldn't possibly pay me enough to use any emoticon, or to say never say never or some of the other pat phrases I see. I suppose I can't expect anyone else to write to my specs (as above). But I also have the right to say things the way I think is best. I am glad that you recognize this. It is very much a manner of communicating based on where you came from and how you were raised. For an example, my mother-in-law's use of y'all, constant spewing of malapropisms, and mispronounciation of simple words, i.e. Lie-berry, Walmark, drive me up a wall, but I don't take umbrage or try to hold her up to the standards of gramar and speech that I was raised with and still use. It is just where she comes from. In a social group you accept one another's differences with a smile. Communicating in the manner of this list leaves out the standard communication tools we have when speaking with someone in person or even on the phone. They are just words on a screen and not tempered by someone's tone of voice. We all read them differently. Even when communicating in writing with a well known friend or colleague is different than communicating on this list with so many individuals whose personalities we don't really know. The list takes on a conversational tone, without the benefit of heard inflection. Not all of us are technical writers or novelists concerned with the exactly perfect way to express our point. As for using 'in my opinion' to preface a comment - personally, I am no expert, and based on what little research I have done any comments I have are merely an opinion based on that research. I know this. By saying 'in my opinion', I am stating in a short addenda This is what I think based on what I have learned so far. If anyone has more information I would love to hear it. Then it is up to me to accept any other information tossed my way. It also says I am not claiming to be an expert. I think this is a generally accepted interpretation of such comments. As for no real friendships and women constantly seeking to stab one another in the back while smiling on the surface - either you grew up in a very snide and catty atmosphere or I grew up in an unusually amiable one. Best, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Annette M - Brings words and photos together (easily) with PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: period dye color references
My modern references state thus: #1. Dandelion flowers with alum mordant produce a soft yellow, flowers with a tin mordant produce yellow, and the whole plant -roots, leaves and flowers - without mordant produces a magenta color. #2. Dandelion flowers with tin mordant produce a golden yellow and dandelion root with an alum mordant a gold-yellow similar to what we call 'goldenrod' paper. (this one has a color chart) I spent a few years as a RD lab technician at a homeopathic manufacturing company. Dandelion is a great foodstuff/supplement. Good for the liver too. My dad used it in salads and for making wine. Annette M (looking forward to finally moving into our new house where there is a lot more space for sewing and room to start experimenting with natural dyes) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 6 Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 22:58:25 -0600 From: otsisto Subject: RE: [h-cost] period dye color references I have always heard that it is the flower or the whole plant that is used in dyeing not just the root. (Though there is a site online that says you can get a red from the root). What color is made, I don't know as I have not gotten into natural dyeing. One person told me that she achieved an almost saffron color reddish yellow with the flowers. And another said she used Alum and got yellow. So maybe the mordant might have an effect in the color. Another said that the leaves with salt made red. Found this site of someones experiment: http://www.sewanee.edu/chem/chemart/Detail_Pages/Projects_2003/Lawrence/htm l/Lawrence.html The root of the dandelion is good for the liver and has been used in cases of cirrhosis of the liver. It is a diuretic which helps to flush the liver and kidney's. The leaves when picked young is good to add to a salad. The leaves also contain A,B,C, and D vitamins, plus potassium salts, iron and other minerals. The flowers are edible as well and pretty up a salad. The root is also an anti-rheumatic and a mild laxative. If you choose to try dandelion in your diet, please learn the hows and wheres of harvesting the plant. Like don't eat of a dandelion growing very near a highway of road. De -Original Message- ..as far as any of the more experienced dyers could tell, get reds from dandelion root. Pixel/Margaret - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] period dye color references
Wonderful! So there is reference to a color of that sort, even if it didn't have that name yet, as far back as the 16th century. Thank you! Annette M Message: 7 Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 07:58:55 -0800 (PST) From: Joannah Hansen Subject: Re: [h-cost] period dye color references snip-- I found this: magenta adj : deep purplish red n 1: a dark purple-red; the dye was discovered in 1859, the year of the battle of Magenta [syn: fuchsia] 2: a battle in 1859 in which the French and Sardinian forces under Napoleon III defeated the Austrians under Francis Joseph I [syn: Magenta, Battle of Magenta] Source: WordNet ® 2.0, © 2003 Princeton University And this is just interesting: Main Entry: fuch·sin Variant: or fuch·sine /'fyük-sn, -sEn/ Function: noun : a dye that is produced by oxidation of a mixture of aniline and toluidines, that yields a brilliant bluish red, and that is used in carbolfuchsin paint, in Schiff's reagent, and as a biological stain Fuchs /'fuks/, Leonhard (1501â1566), German botanist and physician. In 1542 Fuchs published De Historia Stirpium, a manual of herbal plants that stands as a landmark in botany. The work is historically important for its orderly presentation, accurate drawings and precise plant descriptions, and its glossary of botanical terms. Fuchs was especially interested in the medicinal properties of plants, and his book listed the reputed powers of each. The genus Fuchsia was named in his honor by Linnaeus in 1753. Fuchsia also denotes the vivid reddish purple color of the flowers of many plants belonging to the genus. Source: Merriam-Webster's Medical Dictionary, © 2002 Merriam-Webster, Inc. I love this list - it leads me to look up so many interesting things - I had no idea before this that the colour was named after a Napoleonic battle. Joannah. ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~ - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] period dye color references/color fastness
Yes, the first reference stated good color fastness in the yellow with both tin and alum, but had no comment regarding the magenta without mordant - leading me to believe that it is not color fast at all. Annette M Message: 12 Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 12:39:50 -0600 From: E House Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: period dye color references - Original Message - From: Kahlara My modern references state thus: #1. Dandelion flowers with alum mordant produce a soft yellow, flowers with a tin mordant produce yellow, and the whole plant -roots, leaves and flowers - without mordant produces a magenta color. Does your reference say anything about colorfastness? -E House - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Glove pic
Wow, that is an awesome painting! I've forgotten how fabulous the old masters, especially Rembrandt were. Most of the time when folks post a painting for reference I just look at the article of clothing or details that are being referenced, but this one just knocked my socks off as a work of art. And I love the outfit. If I can't get my FI interested in having one, I might just have to make something like it for myself! :-) Annette M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 1 Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 09:29:26 + From: Kate M Bunting Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glove pic I can only think of Rembrandt's portrait of Jan Six. http://www.artchive.com/artchive/R/rembrandt/jan_six.jpg.html has links to 2 articles which discuss the significance of the gloves in this picture. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15/03/2006 12:48 What is the reason that several Dutch portraits have the person wearing one glove and holding the other? Most of them are on the right hand but the one of Valois one is on the left. If nothing else, I've been introduced to the massive amounts of portraits from the references in this discussion board. - Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Equestrian, et al
I had no idea there were so many! Went to my first Ithra (SCA school) this weekend, and was overjoyed to meet some like minded people (costuming, horses and cooking!) First of all, begging pardon for mentioning certain items and not posting links, it becomes really awkward without opening a half dozen other windows at the same time, and I usually end up closing the wrong ones and losing my message. I will do a search to see if I can find pictures of some of the references I mention in response. It has been a busy week, but finally able to get back to the costume list. Am I the only one that did not recieve issue 230? Attended a class on equestrian barding this weekend, and one of the things that came up in discussion was the aside vs. astride issue. Message: 2 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 13:09:35 -0600 From: Diane Maynard [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Equestrian costumers and other hobbies - sort of OT -Original Message- Annette and others- Can we make a subgroup that deals with riding outfits and horse items? Personally, I am right there with you on the costuming for riders and horses. I own a horse farm that does classical riding (Dressage, Combined Training, Jumpers) but, I do SCA and other historical costuming as well. I compete on horseback in the SCA with my full Elizabethan gowns... snip I already have a gorgeous saddle---just need a beautiful period bridle for my big grey warmblood. Diane Oohh, see! - although I do my dressage and 3-day with a big Thoroughbred. On Mar 6, 2006, at 11:41 AM, Kahlara wrote: Over the years I have found that most of my creative associations seem to have at least two or three similarities in other areas as well as the shared interest in which we first became aquainted. I have noticed several list members make reference to horses and riding. I ride and own horses also.Much snippage Just a little generalizing. ;-) Message: 5 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 22:42:03 + (GMT) From: julian wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costuming other period tack Annette, Susan, and others - according to Master Rhys Terafan Greydragon, - he estimates that of the entire SCA membership, possibly only 10% can actually ride, - and fewer still own their own horses. snip There must be so much specialised Equestrian Lore of costume, of bardings, of other tacks - of which we are unaware, - it would seem likely to be a subject of considerable interest to those of us who don't ride horses in these Modern Middle Ages. For example... The riding side-saddle, riding astride-debate has it's own fascinations - Chaucer's illustrators clearly show the female Pilgrims riding astride - but I have read comments confusing the issue, by moderns, flatly stating that even during the 15th Century, all women rode fully-side-saddle, or sat behind a Male servant. Evidence supports that the side-saddle in any form at all - didn't even exist until the 15th century. And the modern side saddle was developed possibly as recently as the 18th century. Did this call for divided skirts? or did women wear hosen under their skirts so as to be able to ride astride yet keep their modesty? snip Just speculation, but my thinking that women wore hosen and tucked their skirts in a proprietary manner when riding. The specific image I am thinking of - someone posted the link (of the Wife of Bath riding astride?), clearly looks as if this is the case. Julian, in Old Jersey Message: 8 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 18:27:46 -0500 From: Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costuming other period tack From what I've been able to find out: he short version of Astride vs Aside: snip I know there are pictures of females riding astride as well as sideways with their back parallel to the right side of the horse and their feet at right angles to the horse's left side. (Did I make this perfectly unclear?) Like sitting in a chair. Others rode sideways behind a man. Some even had a board to place their feet on. Often the horse was led by a footman, controlling the horse. It was thought that ladies couldn't control a large beast like a horse. Women also rode palfreys- gaited horses, also called ambling horses. Supposedly, the Paso Fino Breed, (my horse is a PF) has the palfrey in its background. snip I just attended a class this past weekend on questrian barding and trappings, and the instructor had information that documented ambling as the equivalent of our modern day pacing - with the horses being taught to pace in the same manner. It wasn't included in part of the hand out, so I don't have the reference information to pass on. Susan Message: 10 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 19:47:04 -0600 From: Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costuming other period tack LADIES
[h-cost] Re: equestrian/side saddles and riding habits
Ah, we already have Mozilla/Firefox. I see that I am just going to have to get more familiarized with it. This isn't the saddle I mentioned, but is very similar and chair like. http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/Side-facing%20saddle%20detail.html And a predecessor of the modern with the 'horns' more near the pommel. http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/1799%20side-saddle%20detail.html Her website also has some information on riding habits. http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/Exhibits%20-%20riding%20habits.html I particularly like this one. It would be interesting to find more information on the 'riding corset' she mentions. http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/1896%20French%20Riding%20Habit%20made%20up.html And patterns! http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/sidesaddlelady/Catalogue%20-%20dressmaking%20patterns.html Annette M (with the techno computer geek FI who adds 'cool' stuff to my computer while I am busy elsewhere) Message: 9 Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 13:36:15 -0500 From: Susan B. Farmer Subject: Re: [h-cost] Equestrian, et al Quoting Kahlara : I had no idea there were so many! Went to my first Ithra (SCA school) this weekend, and was overjoyed to meet some like minded people (costuming, horses and cooking!) First of all, begging pardon for mentioning certain items and not posting links, it becomes really awkward without opening a half dozen other windows at the same time, and I usually end up closing the wrong ones and losing my message. I will do a search to see if I can find pictures of some of the references I mention in response. Ah, then you need to switch to The Better Browser :-) Use Mozilla or Firefox (or Safari if you're on a Mac) -- they're tabbed browsers -- meaning in one browser window, you can have *many* tabs open to different pages. Right now, I have a tab to cnn.com, wunderground.com, yahoo groups, my email, eBay, 2 Taxonomy web sites (dissertation related), and Festive Attyre. Mozilla has everything, Firefox is just a broswer. http://mozilla.org Susan (down with IE!) - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] period dye color references
In reference roughly to 12th - 14th centuries. I have been eyeing a lovely piece of magenta wool. My herbal book says this color can be attained using dandelion - the whole plant with no mordant. 1. are there any historical references for this color? I know that dandelion flowers produce a yellow dye. 2. no mordant implies that it would not be color fast. 3. are there any historical references to a magenta like color being produced with some other dye stuff? Or any suggestions where I might look for more information? Annette M (the fuschia/magenta/hot pink range is my favorite color for clothing!) - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Equestrian costumers and other hobbies - sort of OT
Over the years I have found that most of my creative associations seem to have at least two or three similarities in other areas as well as the shared interest in which we first became aquainted. I have noticed several list members make reference to horses and riding. I ride and own horses also. I also have made various articles of riding clothing and costumes for shows over the years (to keep it close to list topic). Although each individual is different, there seems to be a range of interests that most creative people share to one degree or another. For my part... horses, cats (or pets in general), costuming, reading, theatre, good movies, classical and traditional music, gardening, other artistically creative endeavors such as panting or some type of crafting, etc. And of course, the list always exceeds the amount of time available to pursue said interests. Just a little generalizing. ;-) Annette M - Brings words and photos together (easily) with PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 222
Thank you for all the great responses! Now I know I can create some nice things that are going to be easy and a lot less expensive to care for. Might try washing that natural colored linen blouse too. The other direction this took reminds me of how I ruined a dry clean only jacket that was one of my favorites by following label directions. The fabric was fine - it was the lining material that shouldn't have been dry cleaned. It 'melted' and adhered to the fabric as it shrunk, creating a puckered and wrinkled affect that ruined the jacket. And aren't dry cleaners supposed to read labels. I know people aren't infallible, but the label on a skirt said clearly - dry clean only DO NOT PRESS - it came back fine many times, but the last time it got pressed, and a lovely skirt got turned into a limp and unattractive rag. It was just one incident however, and they are the best cleaners around. Annette M Message: 7 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 06:10:12 -0600 From: Leah L Watts Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) One of the things I learned in my studies was that legally, clothing manufacturers have to put a care label on their garments, and they have to test the garment in what ever method they recommend. Not that all manufacturer's actually _test_ the garments ... I think Tommy Hilfiger still holds the record for biggest fine from the FTC for inaccurate care labels. There's a fashion boutique that opened recently in Omaha that is already notorious among the local dry cleaners; the company I work for has told everyone to refuse garments from them because they cannot be dry cleaned regardless of the care tag. For *most* garments, regardless of fiber content, the easiest and cheapest route is to label the garment Dry Clean Only. This way they are not responsible for the poor results if the garment is cleaned some other way, and they have to spend very little money researching other cleaning methods. I've always suspected Do Not Wash, Do Not Dry Clean, Spot Clean Only was a synonym for We Couldn't Be Bothered To Test This But Don't Want To Be Held Responsible. Leah -- Message: 8 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 08:32:57 -0500 From: Lloyd Mitchell Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 That has certainly been my take on it for years! The so called care label puts the blame on the owner or outside establishment if the garment fails to survive the cleaning. Besides the Talon (zipper) ads, remember the Union Label (buy American!) ads when all the new fibers began to come out in the 1950s? Some of the American labels such as Jonathan Logan took great pride that you could depend on their products not to shrink or misshape in the wearing (and caring) Kathleen - Original Message - From: Leah L Watts To: Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:10 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) One of the things I learned in my studies was that legally, clothing manufacturers have to put a care label on their garments, and they have to test the garment in what ever method they recommend. Not that all manufacturer's actually _test_ the garments ... I think Tommy Hilfiger still holds the record for biggest fine from the FTC for inaccurate care labels. There's a fashion boutique that opened recently in Omaha that is already notorious among the local dry cleaners; the company I work for has told everyone to refuse garments from them because they cannot be dry cleaned regardless of the care tag. For *most* garments, regardless of fiber content, the easiest and cheapest route is to label the garment Dry Clean Only. This way they are not responsible for the poor results if the garment is cleaned some other way, and they have to spend very little money researching other cleaning methods. I've always suspected Do Not Wash, Do Not Dry Clean, Spot Clean Only was a synonym for We Couldn't Be Bothered To Test This But Don't Want To Be Held Responsible. Leah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Message: 13 Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 09:11:04 -0500 From: monica spence Subject: RE: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) To: Historical Costume Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hi-- I was a designer / patternmaker and technical designer in the garment industry for 24 years. Do not blame the manufacturer (the people who actually sew the garment) for the wording of care labels. Very often the people who make the garment follow what is demanded by the Customer (the people who order the garment from the manufacturer: Disney,. Walmart, Sears etc.) The customer gives the manufacturer a manual
[h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) question
Can someone point me in the right direction for info/resources on best washing methods fof various natural fabrics, especially linen and wool. I know that many of my off the rack 'modern' clothes specify dry cleaning, but if I were to wash my linen and wool yardage first (cool water of course), would that make the finished garment washable by the same method as well without too much risk of shrinkage? It would be so much simpler. Thanks, Annette M - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Glove Ettiquette (was modes and manners)
I don't know about hand kissing, but I always understood that if a lady was wearing dress gloves - that is evening gloves or gloves simply as part of her ensemble she left them on and if she was wearing riding or gardening gloves or the like, they came off (obviously I would think) for hand shaking/introductions. Seems a simple rule that makes sense to apply to hand kissing as well. Annette M - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 141
rotflmao - almost sprayed my computer with my morning coffee! [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 2 Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 19:43:47 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from The three musketeers In a message dated 2/14/2006 5:34:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Those Frenchthey may not be accurate, but they are beautifully executed! HeyI made a French Revolution joke :-P - What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Tudor Roses
Found this embroidery pattern while looking for something else. They call it English Rose but it looks like the right thing to me. Hope it helps. http://www.dragonbear.com/cenrose.html Annette M - Yahoo! Autos. Looking for a sweet ride? Get pricing, reviews, more on new and used cars. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: dune costumes
Stillsuits - because they distilled all the bodily fluids into drinkable water. Eecch Annette M Message: 1 Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 15:28:06 -0500 From: Helen Pinto Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes Cheryl wrote: I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them escapes me. Still-suits. -Helen/Aidan -- Message: 6 Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 22:35:20 -0500 From: Becky Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes Called stealth suits - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small To: Historical Costume Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote: I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them escapes me. Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile. Kimiko ___ Message: 16 Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 01:37:18 -0800 (PST) From: Joannah Hansen Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain No, sorry, it's definitely 'stillsuit' - I just checked in 'Children of Dune', that being the book that was closest to hand. Joannah ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~ --- Becky wrote: Called stealth suits - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote: I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them escapes me. Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile. Kimiko _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! -- Message: 17 Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 10:20:51 + (GMT) From: julian wilson Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Becky wrote: Called stealth suits - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small To: Historical Costume Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote: I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them escapes me. Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile. COMMENT Well, I have the original issues of Analog, [the large-format Sci-Fi Mag which had been the A-5-sized Astounding] - in which the very first stories of Dune were published, AFAIK, - and the moisture trapping suits are surely called still suits in Herbert's text as published therein. Just my two drachm's-worth by water-counters. Julian, still on the side of House Atreides, but running a little low on melange. - Yahoo! Photos NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a photo. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume End of h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 133 * - Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 133
I do. For Christmas in 1974 my mother bought me a basic Singer (straight stitch with reverse) and I have never changed the bulb. However, I don't think it is fair to actually count it. After she died I rarely used it so it probably hasn't as many hours of use on it as yours. Annette M Message: 14 Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 00:58:12 -0800 (PST) From: Jayne Thomas Subject: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb Hi! After 13 years my lightbulb has finally gone in my sewing machine ( a Toyota that is so old that it has no name or model number!), and I wondered if anyone has had a lightbulb in their sewing machine that has lasted longer? Best Wishes Jayne - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
I have been watching this topic with interest. Just my uneducated opinion, but I think there are a number of factors at play here. We are healthier and better fed than our ancestors so yes, our bodies are 'modern' and in many cases lager scaled, but life style has a great deal to do with it as well. For the most part we are trying to reproduce fashions of the middle and upper classes, whose lifestyle was considerably different than the working man. If burly shoulders were an indication of a man that had to labor to eke out a living, then I can see where the fashion would be towards making the silhouette as narrow as possible to indicate that a person did not have to labor for his living. These days a more muscular appearance seems to be favored through all social strata. Young men from prosperous families in previous eras engaged in 'leisure activities' that required an upright back straight, shoulders up and square posture such as horseback riding, fencing, shooting, etc. And young women similarly - I defy anyone to slouch and play the piano well for example. By comparison, many modern day people drive to work, sit at computers, and for entertainment watch television. Those striving for fitness often work out a gym or health spa which gives a different body structure again than someone whole engages in physical labor for a living. And, as has been mentioned already, posture was an indicator of social status. Also, modern medical science and chiropractic support a more natural posture, advocating allowing for the natural curvature of the spine. To me this looks like slouching btw, but it does open the shoulders wider. Just for an experiement and out of curiosity - I had my shoulder width measured while sitting up square and straight and then when slouching - there was a 5 difference in the width of my shoulder measurement! There are still a wide variety of body types out there. For example, I have a friend who would probably need very little alteration or scaling up for that matter to be fitted well. Lastly, if the stereotype for physical appearance/stature being related to country or geographical area of origin has any basis in fact, would not the clothing made for an 18th cent. Frenchman, (who were supposedly shorter and smaller in stature), be a bit tight for an 18th cent. contemporary from a different geographical origin? JMHO Annette M Message: 4 Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:13:25 + From: Jean Waddie Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..) I would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently we have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow across the front and too wide across the back. If we stand normally they strain at the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit better! Only from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the shape of the modern torso. Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower front? We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, shoulders and hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as well? Jean Kelly Grant wrote It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still have the 'look' you are trying to achieve. I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he felt the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get a good fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently. The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of mine, is to practice the movements and excercises of the period. Mark taught Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the city. When I went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the shape of his body pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was exciting for both of us to see the way we move in different ways from our historical counterparts. Good luck on the new draft! Kelly in Nova Scotia Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Reply-To: Historical Costume To: Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100 Hi, Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question. It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of myself. I cant stop thinking about all our words for
[h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
In my translation anyway it says... Clause 35. Let there be one measure.., and one width of cloth whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges. Dyed I understand. Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth. And does anyone know what halberjet is? These are the only definitions I got when I googled. Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry. Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth. Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the length of the right arm of king Henry 1. Annette M - Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: pet hair - spinning
I think it would depend on the quality of the cat's hair - some long haired cats have a much more wooly texture to their coats than others which would probably be more friendly to spinning. It was not spinning, but I used to have a long-haired cat whose hair I could roll into little balls that looked and felt similar to a ball of felted wool - and the moths loved them just as much! Annette M whose four cats produce nothing near the problematic hair as my one short-haired mutt dog. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 22:20:08 -0600 From: Susan B. Farmer Subject: RE: [h-cost] pet hair Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Ooops... Well, it all depends on the breed of cat's hair. I used to spin collie hair and wool together. Why not Angora cat hair? It's my understanding that the structure of cat hair makes it difficult if not impossible to spin. Seems like the cuticle of the feline fiber (sorry, couldn't resist the alliteration) is barbed. What I was told was that you could spin it -- and then just watch it unspin itself. I know lots of folks who spin Dog Hair, though. Jerusha, not a spinner or weaver Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 23:41:40 -0500 From: Susan Data-Samtak Subject: Re: [h-cost] pet hair the alliteration) is barbed But aren't the barbs the reason that wool can be spun? It gives texture so the spinning stays in. Susan - Yahoo! Photos Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] which dress form? - opinions
The question posted earlier got me thinking that I need a dress form too. I know very little about them except that they can be quite useful. Which ones are the easiest to work with and adjust, and are some more compatible with adjustments for certain body types? Specifically - short back/long hip, small rib cage and waist but broad shoulders and largish bust. I took a quick peek online at Hancocks and they currently have one on sale for $99. This brought up the questions as this basic one doesn't look like it would adjust very well to what is required. The Prym-Dritz twin fit looks like it might be more amenable to the proper measurements. I'm looking for one that would be appropriate for both costuming and 'modern' clothing. What all is out there and what have been everyone's experiences? What would be considered a reasonable price? Thanks, Annette M - Yahoo! Shopping Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: finished sleaves
Absolutely gorgeous!! Message: 6 Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 16:41:27 +0100 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Subject: [h-cost] finished sleaves As sundays usually are quiet here, i dont think you would mind me for showing you the finished sleaves for the yellow dress. They ended up being excactly as i wanted them. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm At the bottom. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ - Yahoo! Personals Single? There's someone we'd like you to meet. Lots of someones, actually. Try Yahoo! Personals ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Another on Opera/Theatre in general
I'm coming in late on this as I had heistated to comment, but now feel like tossing in my two cents worth as well. I saw a production of Tristan and Isolde several years ago that left a lot to be desired. I'm not sure of the intent, but it was distracting as the costuming was from more than one period - and none of it period to the opera. The set design was also from left field. I did watch it through as the voices were beautiful, but the friend that attended with me said she had to just close her eyes and listen. One of my favorites was a production of Die Fledermaus - I couldn't tell you what the period was as I wasn't as costume conscious then, but they were gorgeous! I have also seen a lot of Shakespeare, some in period costume some not. I saw a production of Taming of the Shrew in a 20th century Bohemian setting. It worked well I thought. I can see where a gently firm corset would help with breath support especially with the Queen of the Night's aria. But my favorite - even though it has been commercialized - is the Flower Duet from Lakme'. I did see that done in period costume - more or less - as the costumes were more representative for the British solidiers than accurate and seemed, as I recall, a little more showy than the actual uniforms would have been. But that is theatre after all, isn't it? Annette M (local to both the Seattle and Vancouver, B.C. Opera companies and ventures to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival on occasion) - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] This is gorgeous!
Browsing eBay and found this... http://cgi.ebay.com/Exquisite-Victorian-Soutache-Trim-Jacket_W0QQitemZ8358250073QQcategoryZ48864QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Sigh, the sort of thing that looks great period, but would also go great with a pair of jeans! I love Victorian although I haven't yet attempted to make anything period. Annette M - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Upcoming costume event, St. Cloud, Minn.
Wish it wasn't so far away from me - those sound like exactly the ones I would want to attend. Annette M Message: 2 Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 18:52:48 -0600 (CST) From: Robin Netherton Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming costume event, St. Cloud, Minn. As I mentioned a few weeks ago, I'm scheduled to speak at Clothier's Seminar North (an SCA event) on Sat., Nov. 18, in St. Cloud, Minnesota. I promised further details when they became available. As of today, there's a preliminary class list up at http://www.geocities.com/ursulagoddess/CSNorth_main.html I'll be giving four lectures -- my mainstays on the Gothic fitted dress, the Greenland gored gown, the sideless surcote, and the 15th century V-neck gown. Given the quantity of classes, the event strikes me as very reasonable: $8 for SCA members, $11 for nonmembers, and you get lunch if you preregister by Nov. 9. If this hasn't already been announced on the usual SCA garb lists, I know the planners would appreciate it if someone would make a mention. And if anyone on the h-cost list is planning on going, please let me know, and be sure to introduce yourself at the event. (Don't be put off if I'm in my usual pre-lecture intense-concentration mode or my post-lecture brain fog.) I'd love lunch company with some h-cost people! --Robin - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] children's sizing - very OT
I know there are members here that must sew for children - modern clothes. I am wanting to make a hooded fleece jacket for my friend's little girl and am having a terrible time finding a pattern that is sized right. She is currently wearing 12-18 mos. - but is also already walking. I have looked at the big three and found nothing suitable - either not meant for fleece or the sizing is wrong or both. Anyone have any suggestions where else I could look, or know of a specific pattern I may have over looked? (replying off list is fine as my email filter usually sends those through without a problem) Thanks, Annette M - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: New UK re-enactors recycling list
Thank you Susan! Message: 2 Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 08:03:52 -0500 From: Susan B. Farmer Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New UK re-enactors recycling list Quoting Kahlara : :-( wish there was something in the states like this! Took a peek just out of curiosity and saw something that sounded like it might be rather useful. If you go to groups.yahoo.com and enter a search string of SCA recycle 4 local groups will come up. OakenFreebies ConstellationFreebies MidlandsFreebies PentamereFreebies If you look for SCA sale you'll find garb4sale SCAforsale scabarterandtrade SCA freecycle returns SCAcanrecyclefree Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: grey waistcoat embroidery
Bjarne, I am always stunned by the beauty of your embroidery work. Your waistcoat is going to be fabulous! Annette M -- Message: 10 Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2005 17:25:41 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Subject: [h-cost] grey waistcoat embroidery Well, i know i said i had to waite with this till when i have finished the yellow dress, but i could not resist my lust to try out the mulberry silk threads i got. This is going to be a dark grey gentlemans embroidered waistcoat of 1770ies. It is vey hard to trace pattern to dark fabric, so i used my rice paper, reversed the pattern and sticked it to the backside of the taffeta. Then i used white sewingthread and small running stitches to outline the whole pattern. This worked fine, but it took some time to do. Here is one pattern repeat of the pattern. At the bottom of the page; http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/herreveste..htm Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: New UK re-enactors recycling list
:-(wish there was something in the states like this! Took a peek just out of curiosity and saw something that sounded like it might be rather useful. Annette M Message: 2 Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 13:00:15 +0100 From: Melanie Wilson Subject: [h-cost] New UK re-enactors recycling list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Re-enactors_recycle/ Is a new list set up for re-enactors to freely offer goods that are no longer required, for example you have outgrown stuff or changed periods, or made a better version. Items may not be sold. But reasonable postage can be asked for, but a sae is prefered, as most people will not be close to one another. Please pass the message to any other re-enactors or living history folk who might be interested Thanks Mel - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: my new suit
Ohh! Those colors look absolutely gorgeous together! Annette M Message: 2 Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 15:02:17 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Subject: [h-cost] my new suit Hi, I have uploaded a picture of the silks i want to use on the new suit. First to the right is the ribbed silk, second is a silk taffeta wich is very close to the colour of the ribbed silk, wich i will make a border of each side of the jacket to embroider on. It is very difficult to embroider on the ribbed silk, so that is why i use the taffeta. Finally to the right is the dark grey silk taffeta for the waistcoat. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mixedsilksuit..htm Bjarme Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ -- Message: 8 Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 10:43:28 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] my new suit Lov-er-ly! I was just thinkingit's important, I think, to make sure somehow that the appliqued embroidery looks, without a doubt, that it was MEANT to be appliqued. Y'know what I mean? I'm not sure how this can be achieved, but somehow the applique process must be part of the embroidery process too. Maybe some element, leaves or fruit or something, can be the quilted taffeta. Or appliqued lace is also incorporated. [I don't mean to design things for you, I'm just thinking out loud] In Fashion in Detail somewhere is some embroidery on a waistcoat that is made up of multiple techniquesan appliqued lace with embroidery over it and sequins or something like that. Am I making sense? I just don't want someone to look at your suit and think Oh he took the embroidery off a bed hanging and applied it to the coat. It must look like it was meant to be appliqued from the start. Then of course you have to do it to the waistcoat. :-P -- Message: 10 Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 10:43:21 -0600 From: Sue Clemenger Subject: Re: [h-cost] my new suit Oooh, Bjarne, they look just yummy! What kind of colors will you be using for the embroidery? --Sue, thinking Bjarne must be the best dressed guy in Denmark - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: a holiday idea
That does sound like a wonderful idea. I have done this in years past on another list I belong to and even when it is an inexpensive item, shipping internationally can easily surpass the expense limit if it is not a small and light weight item. Shipping overseas from the U.S. should also happen within the next few weeks if anyone wants to guarantee a package arriving in time for the holidays without having to pay a higher postage rate. It does sound like great fun, but I'll have to nod out this year. Annette M -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 08:38:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Lalah Subject: Re: [h-cost] a holliday idea Bjarne, It wouldn't make a bit of difference what you sent, we would all die to get something you made! Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender --- Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 09:46:33 +0200 To: Subject: [h-cost] a holliday idea Hi. I would like to participate in this also, but wouldnt there be problems? If i get someone who has interrest in medieval, i would not be much helpfull, have never done any medieval and what then? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ -- Message: 4 Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 09:39:48 -0700 From: Lavolta Press Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Holiday gift To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Aslong as the value of the package is not more then 22 Euro you get no charge. And the sender declares the value of the package, at least when shipping from the US. It would be a challenge to make someting from a period I don't know much about. But you don't necessarily have to make something. You could give someone a sewing tool or some trim or some dye or a pattern or a book, and that's just what I can think of off the top of my head. Fran Lavolta Press http;//www.lavoltapress.com -- Message: 5 Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 09:47:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Subject: Re: [h-cost] a holiday idea Sounds fun. Count me in! Chris G. Dawn wrote: Is there any interest among listmembers for a holiday gift exchange? I envision it working something like this: folks sign up with their name, address, and a 'favorite' (color, period, animal, technique). Each participant receives the name of another participant and is then charged with buying or making a small ($10 -ish) gift and sending it to that person by Dec. 20th. I'm willing to coordinate, of course. :) Dawn wet, windy and cold in KC -- Message: 6 Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 17:24:40 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] a holiday idea Sounds like fun. I would like to join the gift exchange also. I can basically do anything from medieval to Elizabethan - along with some Victorian. Roscelin Is there any interest among listmembers for a holiday gift exchange? I envision it working something like this: folks sign up with their name, address, and a 'favorite' (color, period, animal, technique). Each participant receives the name of another participant and is then charged with buying or making a small ($10 -ish) gift and sending it to that person by Dec. 20th. I'm willing to coordinate, of course. :) Dawn wet, windy and cold in KC -- Message: 7 Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 13:37:21 -0500 From: Carol Kocian Subject: Re: [h-cost] a holliday idea Hi. I would like to participate in this also, but wouldnt there be problems? If i get someone who has interrest in medieval, i would not be much helpfull, have never done any medieval and what then? Bjarne It's funny that some people are suggesting gift categories without even getting a recipient! If Bjarne got a name of someone who likes medieval, for example, he could go to a museum shop and get some post cards of medieval paintings with costume. The person would likely not be from the same country, and probably not be familiar with those paintings. The idea of a $10 limit is that it's a token, and a cultural exchange. Much as we admire each other's work, I would not expect someone to make something that would sell for $50, even if it only contained $5 worth of materials. Time is valuable too, and especially close to the holidays when a lot of people are shopping for/making gifts for family and friends already. I like the idea of several clues that someone suggested earlier - besides time period(s), also a favorite color and animal, and maybe another thing or two? Maybe one dislike, such as nothing gray or allergic to wool. Say somebody lists 5th century, red and dragons. The giver might find a stack of postcards, or a red dragon figurine, or a yard of white linen (which is not specific to any of the clues but a 5th century person could use it). You may decide
[h-cost] Re: Was carpet sweeper, now dog hair
My high school German teacher (who was Danish) made beautiful sweaters from her malamutes' hair. I used to have a Mala-mutt that produced the loveliest pure white under coat fluff that we saved for another woman that spun and knitted sweaters from dog hair. As for the stench - a lot of this depends on the dog's lifestyle. Not always, but typically, a dog that is not allowed access to lovely odorous things to roll in - this includes normal ordinary organic matter - tends not to stink horribly when wet. Annette M -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 21:16:04 -0400 From: Shane Sheridan Subject: Re: [h-cost] Was carpet sweeper, now dog hair To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Was carpet sweeper, now dog hair At 1:50 PM -0700 10/18/05, Cynthia J Ley wrote: I haven't yet, but a friend of mine who is a spinner did. Made some very successful yarn from it too. She said it didn't need blending because it already had a nice twist in it and made a fairly strong yarn. When I was actively spinning, I was asked if I'd take a commission from a local afghan (hound) club to make an afghan afghan. I thought it was a cute idea but didn't have the time. I believe there's also a book on using dog hair in weaving -- IIRC it's titled or subtitled (yes really) From Woof to Warp. I suppose the temptation was irresistible, really -- For some dog owners the temptation is more a survival reaction. :-) My uncle raises Alaskan Malamutes, and often puppy-sits for other Mala-mutt owners. He has had up to 25 dogs at his acreage at one time. That's a LOT of dog fluff! My Malamutt every spring would shed a garbage bag's worth of soft undercoat, her favorite thing was to sit with me outside and let me pull handfuls of the stuff off of her - much easier than trying to scratch it off herself I'm sure. A friend of my uncle's would come and collect the fluff from him and other Malamute and Samoyed owners then spin and knit the colletion every year, she made a nice bit of money at the season's dog shows selling the results. Softer than you might think, and very warm. :-) Sheridan (missing my dog now...) -- Message: 9 Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:31:04 -0500 From: Land of Oz Subject: [h-cost] now dog hair To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original I can confirm that dog hair makes lovely fabric, whether woven or knit or felted. Any dog that blows a fine, soft undercoat (usually in the spring) makes a good candidate. If it's at least an inch and a half long, most people will not be able to distinguish it from angora (rabbit) in a finished object. The main objection is odor. If the dog smells, the fabric will too. Sometimes the odor can be washed out at the yarn stage, but sometimes it can't. - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 666
Hi Bjarne, Your silk must be lighter than I imagined, as a pale pearl gray - as I think of it anyway - isn't a very dark gray. I am sure your suit will turn out lovely and I look forward to seeing pictures of the finished results. 900 colors of embroidery silk! You are sure to find a perfect match. Annette M -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 20:28:31 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: habit francaise To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original Dear Anette, This is what i had in mind, would be lovely on a grey silk. But it was not used with a darker toned waistcoat, so ill have to stick on the off white. But that can also be nice. Would you magine, i searched for a twisted high glossy silk and found Mulberry Silks in England. I mailed the lady today because i want to order some things from her. She says they have 900 collours to choose from!!! That doesnt help much hah! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Kahlara To: Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 7:19 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: habit francaise Hello Bjarne, Although this is not a period that I have worked with, I am a little familiar with it and I have enjoyed looking at your pictures of costumes and your exquisite embroidery. It does sound like you have made your decision about the waist coat - but my mind's eye came up with this...I don't know if fabric of this sort it is period, but what about a pale pearl gray with the same rosy undertones as the jacket silk? If such a thing can be found. Your embroidery plans for this suit sound lovely. Annette M === - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: habit francaise
Hello Bjarne, Although this is not a period that I have worked with, I am a little familiar with it and I have enjoyed looking at your pictures of costumes and your exquisite embroidery. It does sound like you have made your decision about the waist coat - but my mind's eye came up with this...I don't know if fabric of this sort it is period, but what about a pale pearl gray with the same rosy undertones as the jacket silk? If such a thing can be found. Your embroidery plans for this suit sound lovely. Annette M -- Message: 3 Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 21:14:53 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews Subject: Re: [h-cost] habit francaise To: Historical Costume Dear Joannah and Suzi, Thanks for your inputs, i also found one in Ribeiro's Fashion in England and Fracem a spanish country park scene, a gentleman is wearing a red suit with green waistcoat. But i have ben interrested in court suit wearm and i think it is a must with off white waistcoat. Could have ben pretty with a medium grey with my dusty rose, but off white will also be nice. I intent to embroider myself a new court suit, and i draft embroidery patterns right now, so fun. I think i will combine it so that i make the cuffs off white also. The match depends on the colours i use for the embroidery. I was so fortunate to find a Armani ribbed silk in dusty red lilacs. As it was the last lot, 6,30 meter, i got it for 230,00 kr, a meter. They told me the original price is 1000,00 kr a meter. Perhaps i make a wreath of rosebuds in dusty rose on the waistcoat and an old rose wreath of rosebuds on the jacket. More red than the fabric, Please dont make any fuss about the portrait you found, it is the whole, that lighter waistcoats was used that matters to me. Thanks for your replyes!!!:-) Bjarne - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke To: Historical Costume Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 7:59 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] habit francaise At 18:46 15/10/2005, you wrote: This, of course, sent me off looking through lots of portraits on the web, where I have seen plenty of *matching* waistcoats, but unfortunately no dark waistcoats with lighter coats. ( Do you know how many portraits were painted at just the right angle to not let you see what is on under their coats and jabots? Nearly every blasted one ) However, I did find this portrait - http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?search=sssText=bachLinkID=mp05038rNo=0role=sit which seems to have a waiscoat of a contrasting colour. I may be able to go and have a quick look at this on Tuesday, Bjarne, if you can wait that long. I have a suspicion that what shows is the lining of the coat, but if they have the portrait on display I will be able to get a better idea. Suzi - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Book on Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries
I don't remember who, but at least one person had mentioned a book/catalogue about these tapestries. This is the result I finally got from a book search site. THE LADY AND THE UNICORN. Erlande-Brandenburg. Editions de la Reunion, 1989. VG+. Softcover. It doesn't give any other information than that, and I don't know enough about the different editions. Is this the shorter version or the full length edition? Thanks, Annette M - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Tippets
Thanks for all the replies and info! I haven't read the article, but from what Robin has said so far, I definitely should! I'll check the library at the university first, but short of buying it (which I may do anyway) I don't think anywhere local to me would have it available. If I can't locate it I will email you Robin. Thanks again, Annette M Robin Netherton has written quite an explanation of tippets. The article is in the first Journal of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Information there may help you in your efforts to produce your own. The article is scholarly, and not a how-to-make type. Of course... you might have already read it. ; Good Luck . Hope this helps. Mari / Bridgette On Fri, 7 Oct 2005, Kahlara wrote: I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made. As Mari noted, tippets are an interest of mine, and I have put essentially everything I know about them into an article that appeared in the first volume of _Medieval Clothing Textiles_ (issued spring 2005), eds. Gale Owen-Crocker and myself. For the long answer, I'd suggest you borrow or ILL it; if you can't get a copy easily, e-mail me directly and we'll work something out. A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on. Short answer: Most of the standard sources are almost certainly wrong. The most important conclusions (I'll leave the detailed analysis and evidence to the article): -- The tippets that look like a band around the upper arm with a hanging streamer (which is what you seem to be asking about) were almost certainly *not* separate wardrobe items, but rather decorative cuffs on short-sleeved overgowns, made as part and parcel of the garment. -- I can find no suggestion in any source that the bands/streamers were linen, silk, or other fabric. There is substantial circumstantial evidence that the depictions were meant to indicate fur -- in fact, an extension of the (almost always white) fur lining typically used on these gowns. Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as the surcotte. This sounds like a description of certain other decorative sleeve endings from near to the same time period. A thorough look at the visual sources shows that sleeve endings pass through a sequence of stages, the band-and-streamer tippet being only one style in that sequence. Some modern costumers use the term tippet to refer to several different types of hanging sleeve decorations, and then distinguish them by various terms such as integral tippets or banded tippets or whatever -- though I have seen a lot of inconsistency in the modern use of such terms, and there is no parallel distinction in the (highly fluid and imprecise) terminology of the period. The word tippet was used for a variety of things, including hood tails. Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the construction. There are (to my knowledge) no extant tippets. There are plentiful visual sources of varying quality, rare written references to the style, and (again to my knowledge) absolutely no line-item entries in inventories, wills, shop lists, etc. As near as I can tell, they are never referred to as separate items, only as a feature of a particular style of garment. I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric. .. From what I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate. It was probably more accurate than most of the other examples you may have seen, as I suspect the band-and-streamer style developed as a formalized version of the visual impression created by turning up a fur-lined short sleeve with a hanging extension, which was the sleeve style immediately preceding the appearance of the tippet. But *that* is my own speculation. For the long version, I refer you to the article. --Robin How does one go about subscribing to Medieval Clothing Textiles ? It's an annual journal published in book form. It's assumed that most subscribers will be libraries that will want to assemble a complete set, though I suppose that there would be some way for individuals to subscribe as well. Most people, though, will want to buy individual volumes based on their interest in specific papers included. The papers in each volume vary greatly by topic, period, and discipline. It's our goal to have a broad range in each volume, representing early medieval up through early modern (that's the preferred term now for Elizabethan ;-) ), and a variety of approaches: art, literature, documentary studies, archaeology, trade/economics, and experimental reconstruction. The papers are peer-reviewed and academic in nature, not focused on the how-tos of costuming, though we believe that costumers
Re: playing in period societies? Re: [h-cost] why renaissance...
Another possibility for finding like minded people, if you are at all into traditional or folk dancing you might check out some of those groups as well. I used to contra dance (old country dancing) quite frequently and met people from several groups, including a Civil War re-enactment group and a Scottish country dancing group that does demonstrations at the local Highland games. I also met several people that were into Irish step dancing and other Celtic interests at a weekend long dance. Many other dance groups and some other types of groups would also leave (or bring) flyers and brochures for their events at our dances. I am sure that each area and group is different, but it seemed to me that contra dancing draws quite a cross section of folks who had other areas of historical interests as well. If you don't know what Contra Dance is... http://www.sbcds.org/contradance/whatis/ and a list of links to Contra Dance groups from all over the world. http://www.contradancelinks.com/ Annette M -- Message: 3 Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:24:42 -0700 From: Kimiko Small Subject: Re: playing in period societies? Re: [h-cost] why renaissance and not 18th century? At 11:26 AM 9/22/2005, you wrote: Or, if not, if there's a group that focuses on the Irish/Celtic/Welsh (I think they are all different and distinct groups) history, language and costuming, I'd also love to know about them, too. Elena/Gia I don't know about your area, but in my area we have a local Celtic Society that I used to be semi-involved with. We used to do Scottish country dancing and we often were asked to either dance at Scottish caellies (sp?)), work the local Highland games, or dance with the Irish dance groups on St. Paddy's day, or give talks on costumes of the 16th c. Irish Scots. They also tried to promote Breton, Welsh, and Cornish history as well, although those weren't as popular. They are still around and are involved with a new Irish pub we have in town. Perhaps you can find something similar that may be associated with a pub in your area, or maybe listed in your news paper events page. And if you do, please let me know as well. My best friend and former dance mistress lives and works in your area, and she's commented that she hasn't found much to do up there like she did around here for re-enactment or even dancing opportunities. She even sent me her old box of faire stuff because she didn't know what else to do with them (that almost broke my heart for all the fond memories we had.) Kimiko -- __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: 20th century....
I miss Bennetton! And still own a classic pair of Bennetton wool trousers I bought over 25 years ago. As for the we comments about today's fashion and culture - I think that they are simply gross generalizations about today's youth and should be viewed as such. From the little I have read from the folks here, I don't believe any of us would fit into the mould of today's pop culture. I know I don't. In truth, I don't think a vast majority of young people fit this mould either. Just to give one example, my niece buys all vintage 20th century fashion, mostly from the 40's and 50's. Annette M Message: 10 Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 16:31:11 -0400 From: Gail Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Penny wrote: We want everything fast and then throw it away in a short amount of time. We are all guilty of throw it away instead of repairing products. Mass production makes it so much cheaper to purchase a new product instead of repairing. This is not true in Europe, or at least it wasn't 10 years ago when I wrote an article about Benneton for a retail magazine. The company had opened US stores, but they failed miserably. They were trying to redo the stores, and the person in charge told me that the company had misunderstood the American market. Benneton sweaters, she told me, were considered middle-priced clothing in Europe, while here they were considered expensive (they were about $80 on sale then). The company was not geared to a wear it for a year or two and get rid of it mentality. They expected people to keep their Benneton clothes for a long time. She also explained that Benneton did not have any ladies' dress jackets, and that this was a staple of American women's work wardrobes (dress blouse, dress skirts, and dress jackets, all of them mix and match). She said that in Europe, women wore a lot more dresses to work, and a lot more matching suits. Benneton was designed for people who have fewer, nicer clothes, and who keep them longer. It could not compete as it was with the American market for a LOT of less expensive clothes. I don't know what it's like now... Gail Finke - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Dressing Santa Claus
If you are trying to find an inspirational source for the coca-cola Santa's costume, research frontier clothing and explorer's garb a la Lewis and Clark. Keep in mind however, that the coca-cola Santa's costume is likely to be at least partly due to artistic inspiration and invention. As to Sinter Claaus being dressed in red and white...the local Dutch community has a Sinter Claaus parade every year, with him dressed as I described. Perhaps this is a more modern version, but he has been the same for many years. ?? Annette M -- Sinterklaas is also dressed in red and white. Maby they looked at medieval clothes to make him look old, like he lives forever. And added white fur since he comes from the north?pole. Kahlara wrote: I don't know how accurate this is, but I had always been told that prior to the Moore/Nast (American) idea of St. Nick's appearance, that many countries/ethnic groups had their own version of St. Nicholas or some similar personality (Baba Yaga in Russia?) and each had their own costume based on how they were portrayed in the stories. If I remember correctly, Sinter Claaus wears a bishop's costume, complete with mitre and staff and rides a white horse. Annette M -- Message: 2 Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 08:09:22 -0400 From: Lloyd Mitchell Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 603 This is plainly 20thC American, from my point of view. As someone has already pointed out, the vision of Santa differs from culture to culture. The Nast version is the first that I am aware of, which is influenced by the description given in the Night Before Christmas(as it is now known) Are you aware of the Dover issue that presents a collection of Santas and farther Christmas? This source might be a starting point in creating the view of Santa you are looking for. Kathleen - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 11:36 AM Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 603 Thanks for your responses. I think we're getting somewhere, but let me rephrase my question. What I'm really wondering is, if I wanted to make a costume like this one: http://www.adclassix.com/images54cokesanta.jpg and call it historical, where would I go to document it? Who would have worn something like that in real life? Victorian isn't my period, but I don't recall ever seeing anybody dress like that in my brief studies of that century. Is it a Victorian or 20th Century confabulation of some earlier period? Or is it some kind of 19th Century Dutch costume? Does anyone have any pictures of a real person wearing a similar costume, maybe in some other color or without the fur trim? Nast seems to have dressed him in clothes derived from his own period, though possibly a little fantasized, but did the Coca-Cola artist make up the traditional costume or did he derive it from earlier drawings? Tea Rose P.S. I think I'll go look up that WonderWorker book; thanks for the reference. I know there are all kinds of Santas these days, which is why I don't feel compelled to do the traditional suit, but I'm curious about where the traditional suit came from. == From: Abel, Cynthia I don't think all of Nast's Santa's wore a red outfit, but just about all the images I recall usually show him in a practical winter weather two-piece fur-trimmed suit, suited for a jolly old elf and a stocking cap. If I remember correctly, this Claus was derived more from the slightly Protestanized Dutch Sinter Claaus, than St. Nicholas. A great big very well-fed guy in a cheery and confident color red with grandfatherly white beard and whiskers was just the visual ticket to lift the economically stressed consumer. Amazon.com has Wonderworker: the history of Santa Claus, which has a pic of one of Thomas Nast's Santa's on the cover--with a very present-day politically incorrect pipe between his lips! From: Dawn http://www.dovercards.com/_images/0486236609_46_Thomas%2520Nast_Santa%2520at%2520Chimney.jpg This is a Nast Santa, and it looks like he's in longjohns. http://www.sonofthesouth.net/Thomas_Nast/Original_Santa_Claus.jpg Another Nast Santa, from 1865, he's in striped pants, a fur lined jacket with stars on it, and some kind of cap, but it still doesn't look like 1865 fashion. The image is heavily political, the stars and stripes are obviously iconic. http://www.adclassix.com/images54cokesanta.jpg This is a Coca-Cola Santa from 1954... and you're right. What the heck is the suit supposed to be? It's not a 1954 men's fashion, is it? And why red? Dawn From: Kate Pinner 1822 -- Clement Moore -- A Visit From Saint Nicholas. This supposedly gave us the first picture of how he was dressed (a picture in words). The newspaper/magazine artists took it from there. Before that, I don't think there was a clear image of him that someone could identify immediately by some specific
[h-cost] Re: Kilcommon Jacket 2 last questions
Thank you everyone that responded (with the same answer too!). Laying it out and embroidering before cutting makes perfect sense now that it has been explained. I don't have a frame that big, but am thinking a quilting hoop - about 22 inside diameter - might do the trick. Another reminder for the costuming historians out there - this is for my wedding and we're going for a look more than accuracy. I will probably be the only one there that knows the degree of accuracy or lack there of, although I do appreciate the historical notes and reminders some of you have sent and will keep them for future reference. Thanks again, Annette M -- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 15:01:31 -0700 From: Kimiko Small Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kilcommon Jacket 2 last questions At 09:10 AM 9/21/2005, you wrote: Thank you to everyone that responded. It was very helpful. One last question on this topic... Wool or Linen? Wool is my suggestion. Lined in linen or cotton. I did buy a nice 'homespun' cotton that has a nice texture and feel and resembles linen, but it will need some type of crisp lining. I have regular interfacing - not the fusible kind - and was thinking of layering that between the cotton and some sort of lining fabric. Certainly not accurate, but I thought it might be a nice look for the wedding. It would depend on how thick and homespun it looks to you. If you like it, then use it. As for interfacing, regular sew-in kind is what I use (I am not fond of how fusibles don't hold up as well), with tailor's hair canvas (if you can find it) or additional regular interfacing added in any stress areas, like a small strip along the front edge and neck, and along the bottom to support the pleats. Make that two questions - we are considering the 'embroidered' embellishments similar to those shown in the woodcuts, but tone on tone. How is this to be done - before assembling the pieces or after the jacket is done? And how to keep the fabric smooth and taut enough to accomplish this so it looks nice? My 'needlework' experiece is limited to what fits in a hoop or on a stretcher. Either can work, although it is easier to do so before the jacket is assembled. First wash and dry your fabric. Make a cartoon (outline of the embroidery) on a copy of the pattern pieces you are going to work, so you know where to place things. Then transfer the cartoon onto the fabric and cut out the fabric with very wide margins (2-3) or as a rectangle (works better). Do not actually cut out the pattern piece yet, things can shrink a little while being embroidered. Put the piece of material in a stretcher (better than a hoop, but a hoop can work), do your embroidery work, take it off the stretcher, lightly wash the fabric if there are transfer marks remaining, dry press on the wrong side with a towel underneath the fabric (so you don't flatten the embroidery), then cut out the pattern piece and make up the jacket. You can also embroidery a lightweight fabric, and add that on as an applique onto the back of the jacket. That is period, and those were called slips by the English. The upper classes would do slips in linen, cut the pieces out, and sew the slips onto velvet. I am not as sure if the Celts did the same, but it would make sense to do so if embroidering onto heavy materials like wool or velvet. Thanks again, Annette M hth, Kimiko Small - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 612
Message: 1 Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 13:08:36 -0500 From: otsisto Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Dressing Santa Claus To: Historical Costume Baba Yaga is female and was not Russia's version of St. Nick. :) De Which is why I said or some similar personality. :) My understanding is that Baba Yaga was a witch who brought gifts. I'm a bit rusty on the little Russian Folklore I do know, so I don't remember more than that. -Original Message- Kahlara wrote: I don't know how accurate this is, but I had always been told that prior to the Moore/Nast (American) idea of St. Nick's appearance, that many countries/ethnic groups had their own version of St. Nicholas or some similar personality (Baba Yaga in Russia?) and each had their own costume based on how they were portrayed in the stories. If I remember correctly, Sinter Claaus wears a bishop's costume, complete with mitre and staff and rides a white horse. Annette M - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Dressing Santa Claus
I don't know how accurate this is, but I had always been told that prior to the Moore/Nast (American) idea of St. Nick's appearance, that many countries/ethnic groups had their own version of St. Nicholas or some similar personality (Baba Yaga in Russia?) and each had their own costume based on how they were portrayed in the stories. If I remember correctly, Sinter Claaus wears a bishop's costume, complete with mitre and staff and rides a white horse. Annette M Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 16:41:47 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Dressing Santa Claus Okay, this may seem like the wrong time of year for this question, but I'm making a bunch of Santa dolls for a craft show in November, and I got to wondering what kind of garment Santa's traditional costume is supposed to be? You know, the one that was made popular by the early 20th Century Coca-Cola ads. I know Santa became really popular for the first time in the 1880s or so, but who invented his get-up? Did anyone ever really dress like that, or is it a Victorian concoction? My Santas, for what it's worth, will be dressed in mid-19th Century waistcoats and jackets, mainly because I have some cool brocade I want to use on the waistcoats. Tea Rose -- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 16:36:17 -0500 From: Abel, Cynthia [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dressing Santa Claus Thomas Nast, probably was the illustrator that started the image of Santa we have today. I don't think all of Nast's Santa's wore a red outfit, but just about all the images I recall usually show him in a practical winter weather two-piece fur-trimmed suit, suited for a jolly old elf and a stocking cap. The earlier(1820's) The Night Before Christmas probably really was the starting point that took the European St. Nicholas and made him Santa Claus. If I remember correctly, this Claus was derived more from the slightly Protestanized Dutch Sinter Claaus, than St. Nicholas. I think that the present Santa Claus is a blend of Sinter Claaus(bad kids got a bunch of switches in their wooden shoes), The Night Before Christmas jolly old elf leaving tons of gifts, with the sleigh and reindeer, Scrooge post-three spirits visit, Thomas Nast's artwork, and the big Depression era start point of commercializing Christmas to drum up sales during a traditionally slow economic time of year. A great big very well-fed guy in a cheery and confident color red with grandfatherly white beard and whiskers was just the visual ticket to lift the economically stressed consumer. See if your library has any histories on Santa Claus(not the kids' fiction books). Amazon.com has Wonderworker: the history of Santa Claus, which has a pic of one of Thomas Nast's Santa's on the cover--with a very present-day politically incorrect pipe between his lips! Many dollmakers have made their own Santas and St. Nicholas' and I think there is a book out there somewhere just full of them as a great idea board for you. Cindy Abel But put your Santas in whatever. The brocade could be used as linings or trims, as well as waistcoats. Message: 15 Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 08:50:55 -0400 From: Kate Pinner [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dressing Santa Claus 1822 -- Clement Moore -- A Visit From Saint Nicholas. This supposedly gave us the first picture of how he was dressed (a picture in words). The newspaper/magazine artists took it from there. Before that, I don't think there was a clear image of him that someone could identify immediately by some specific article of clothing...at least in the US. Kate __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Kilcommon Jacket 2 last questions
Thank you to everyone that responded. It was very helpful. One last question on this topic... Wool or Linen? I did buy a nice 'homespun' cotton that has a nice texture and feel and resembles linen, but it will need some type of crisp lining. I have regular interfacing - not the fusible kind - and was thinking of layering that between the cotton and some sort of lining fabric. Certainly not accurate, but I thought it might be a nice look for the wedding. Make that two questions - we are considering the 'embroidered' embellishments similar to those shown in the woodcuts, but tone on tone. How is this to be done - before assembling the pieces or after the jacket is done? And how to keep the fabric smooth and taut enough to accomplish this so it looks nice? My 'needlework' experiece is limited to what fits in a hoop or on a stretcher. Thanks again, Annette M __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Guildhall Museum Medieval Gallery (was Odd Jerkin question)
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Re: [h-cost] Odd Jerkin question... ...the Guildhall Museum collection was incorporated into that of the City Museum (Museum of London)... The leather jerkin that is usually on display is currently in store as there is a new medieval gallery (400AD - 1558AD) opening in late October or early November.. Suzi Is this going to be a permanent display or a temporary one, and if temporary, any idea how long it will be on display? Thanks, Annette M __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Catching up
Wow, just a few days and my inbox is overflowing. Three day weekend meant I wasn't able to get online very much, but finally got through the discussions on various topics - all interesting and educational, or at least entertaining. ;-) Most of the comments and observances I had have already been made by others, however... SCA - from my limited esperience the SCA has evolved over time. There seem to be a larger percentage of folks interested in historical accuracy than 20 years ago. It seems that the parameters have changed as well - when I first encountered the SCA it was predominantly Western European based. Now I hear that any culture within the 600 to 1600 period that had some type of contact with Western Europe is acceptable, which explains the wide variety of garb. An excerpt from an SCA article states, ...describe the SCA as recreating the Middle Ages as they ought to have been. A better description is that we selectively recreate medieval culture, choosing elements of the culture that interest and attract us. (from http://www.sca.org/sca-intro.html) And as Lilinah said, many events are open to the public. An attempt to dress 'period' by visitors and newcomers is appreciated and basic loaner garb is provided. I took my niece to an event a couple of weekends ago, and we found a wonderful T tunic type dress for her to borrow that was quite accurate. (Was also pleased that the little tom-boy commented the dress was really comfortable!) Hippies - 40 years old is an ageing hippie?! Anyone 40 is a little too young to be classified as an original unless their parents were. - let alone be classified as an ageing anything! ;-D Most folks strive to establish their own identity by living outside the mainstream in one way or another. Some are just more extreme than others - and as another person commented, things no longer shock as they once did since we have become accustomed to diversity. That being said, when I see some of the retro fashions that have been popular the last few years I usually find myself thinking...ug, that was horrible when we wore it the first time around! (re: polyester; bellbottom hip-huggers; acid green anything; extremely bright, lid to eyebrow eyeshadow; disco music; etc...JMO.) Anyway - glad to be back and love finding all the resources mentioned. Annette M __ Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Kilcommon Bog Jacket/Ionar
I found the page on the Kilcommon Bog Jacket at Reconstructing History. From the other info I found, I would hazard a guess that this is the same thing as an Ionar/Inar. I can't get my FI to give up his kilt - even though he swears he is Irish and not Scottish. I did get him away from the modern Scottish kilt jacket/outfit by showing him pictures and telling him the history behind the Kilcommon Jacket and he said to make him one. It is a later period than the dresses will be, but at least it won't be 'modern'. It will have to be a slightly modified version with a very conservative leine, as I did show him the pictures of the one Kimiko made, http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/irishbard/index.html and he wasn't too fond of the full 'skirt'. I think this is more what he had in mind. http://www.alcaigpipebandsupplies.com/index.php?cmd=viewproductid=118 I also like this one, but in a solid color. http://www.lydia.org/~zaphod/sca/ionar.html Are there any other sources of information - most of the sites I found use the same woodcuts that Kimiko found for examples. Is reconstructing history the only pattern available? It looks somewhat simple - what skill level might be necessary to create a pattern? (for someone with a high level of aptitude for that sort of thing) I did find conflicting information on a couple of things as well.. ..what sort of decoration was on the jackets - either embroidered, or braid that was sewn on? ..did the sleeves have ties only at the wrist or along the full length, or were they only worn loose. ..how was it held closed in front - by belt, ties, or a brooch? ..did it overlap like a bathrobe or like a jacket when closed? I realize the answers are subject to interpretation of research and there are virtually no extant examples, but any information is appreciated. Thanks, Annette M __ Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 553
My heart goes out to you and your family Penny. I hope you hear from all of them soon. I watched an hour of news videos online this afternoon and the devastation is terrible. You provided me with my first news on the Slidell area. One of my best friends lives in Lacombe and I am worried as I had not talked to her recently and they frequently have flooding. I am hoping she was able to evacuate safely and am waiting to hear from her. But I have little hope that their home was spared damage. Annette M --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... Today's Topics: 1. about smoking in 18th century /ot (Bjarne og Leif Drews) 2. Re: about smoking in 18th century /ot ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 3. Wool Challis weave questions (Saragrace) 4. Re: about smoking in 18th century /ot (Bjarne og Leif Drews) 5. beautifull reproduktions of silks and calicoes (Bjarne og Leif Drews) 6. Linen bargain alert ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 7. re: kyoto book (katherine sanders) 8. Re: re: kyoto book (Bjarne og Leif Drews) 9. RE: re: kyoto book (Abel, Cynthia) 10. Storm update (Penny Ladnier) 11. Re: Storm update ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 12. Re: Storm update (Marie Stewart) 13. Re: Storm update (Chris) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 21:22:31 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original Hi. I just got back from 2 weeks vacation on Madeira, and on my vacation i have read a wonderfull book about a danish poet who lived in early 18th century. His name was Ambrosius Stub. In the book, there is a lady who in private smokes cigarillos, and i just wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain) really excist? I always have a problem when i smoke, because my clay pipe breaks during my travellings and they are very fragile. If this was true about cigarillos, perhaps i could use this in stead? Many greetings Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ -- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 15:29:34 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII In a message dated 8/30/2005 3:24:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: In the book, there is a lady who in private smokes cigarillos, and i just wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain) really excist? I always have a problem when i smoke, because my clay pipe breaks during my travellings and they are very fragile. If this was true about cigarillos, perhaps i could use this in stead? It was my understanding that cigars/cigarillos were developed in the very late 18th or early 19th century, but I haven't seen exact documentation. Just did a Google!, and cigars seem to have first been made in Spain in the early 18th century, and spread from there after the Peninsular Wars (1808-1814). So it seems possible, but not likely, that the woman was smoking them. Ann Wass -- Message: 3 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 13:13:06 -0700 From: Saragrace [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Wool Challis weave questions To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed I was looking at some, solid colored, imported 100% wool challis which is one of the nicest, lightweight wools I have seen anywhere. It has a very distinctive diagonal twill pattern to it. I read here: http://www.ntgi.net/ICCFD/wool.htm#challis that Challis originated in Norwich England in 1832. If I hadn't been told it was challis, I would just have called it a diagonal twill weave.can anyone tell me why I couldn't use this for anything from 1400-1600? Sg -- Message: 4 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:31:12 +0200 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
[h-cost] Re: Tales
rom the Green Valley --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... Today's Topics: 1. hermitage collection (Katy Bishop) 2. RE: Reminder Tales from the Green Valley (Anne Moeller) 3. Re: hermitage collection (Suzi Clarke) 4. RE: Reminder Tales from the Green Valley (Suzi Clarke) 5. Re: Civil War fabrics and books (Carolyn Kayta Barrows) -- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 09:57:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] hermitage collection To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Don't know if anyone has posted this link yet, but they have many images of their costumes online and zoom-able! http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/fcgi-bin/db2www/browse.mac/typeIndex?selLang=EnglishselCateg=suit Not everything that is in the books but most and some that I've never seen before. Lots of inspiration for my new 1910's evening dress Katy Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. -- Message: 2 Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 10:18:54 -0400 From: Anne Moeller [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reminder Tales from the Green Valley To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1250 Oh, go ahead and rub it in :( Anne (who really wants to see this someday) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 8:51 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Reminder Tales from the Green Valley A reminder for those who can get BBC2, this evening at 7.30 p.m. (don't forget we are an hour ahead of GMT for summertime - don't make me laugh) sees the second month of the Tales from the Green Valley series. For those who can't get it - I am sorry. Suzi -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.10.13/78 - Release Date: 8/19/2005 -- Message: 3 Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 15:21:53 +0100 From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] hermitage collection To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed At 14:57 26/08/2005, you wrote: Don't know if anyone has posted this link yet, but they have many images of their costumes online and zoom-able! http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/fcgi-bin/db2www/browse.mac/typeIndex?selLang=EnglishselCateg=suit Not everything that is in the books but most and some that I've never seen before. Lots of inspiration for my new 1910's evening dress Katy Great site - thanks so much. Suzi -- Message: 4 Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 15:23:23 +0100 From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reminder Tales from the Green Valley To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed At 15:18 26/08/2005, you wrote: Oh, go ahead and rub it in :( Anne (who really wants to see this someday) I did say sorry! Suzi A reminder for those who can get BBC2, this evening at 7.30 p.m. (don't forget we are an hour ahead of GMT for summertime - don't make me laugh) sees the second month of the Tales from the Green Valley series. For those who can't get it - I am sorry. -- Message: 5 Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 09:59:34 -0700 From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War fabrics and books To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed === message truncated === __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Tales From the Green Valley
OOps, sorry about that last message - hit the wrong key! I showed my FI the website with the write-ups about the series and lamented that I couldn't watch them. Without promting he went online and found this... http://www.choicesdirect.com/templates/product.asp?ProductGuid=671598CallerID=NKLK9042cm_ven=Kelkoo%20DVDscm_cat=nacm_pla=nacm_ite=NKLK9042 About $30.00 US. I imagine they would ship to other countries for a fee. Annette M Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] (no subject)
Since there has been discussion about the sometimes lack of historical accuracy in movie costumes I thought this was interesting. Found it on eBay - something from an old B W movie. Thought it might be good for a grin. http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7538331810ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1 Annette M __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: KWCS Update
:-D The rattan schedule contains fighting classes. -- Message: 3 Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 11:01:53 -0500 From: Marc Carlson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] RE:KWCS Update From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...attendees to allow them to get a great conference hotel and facilities. I see that this year's is combined with a rattan symposium, which must have something to do with either weapons or fighting though I don't know which. Furniture making. Marc __ Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: going into business
Wow, Thanks Penny and Suzi! There is some advice that can apply to any sort of business. Annette M (thinking I ought to find a useful(income generating) purpose for all the research I am been doing!) Message: 3 Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 03:45:06 -0400 From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] going into business: (even Longer) To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=response Your welcome Kim. That was a really good point to make. I recently talked to a lady in Gettysburg who has lots of costumes ready made. You would think in Gettysburg, you wouldn't have a problem selling ACW ladies' costumes. But that market's area has so many established costume businesses that have they have the market tied up. This lady does beautiful work. But she is being forced to sell her costumes at below their cost because she needs to get back her investment. I have a lot of education in marketing and merchandising. So many factors go into play when marketing a product line. I don't know if you are watching the Tommy Hilfiger reality show on CBS, called The Cut. It is really interesting because he is dealing more with the business side of design than the creative edge. Last week the challenge was taking 500 pieces of TH merchandise and reconstructing it to sell on the streets. One team lost a day of selling, and decided to sell the clothing for $5 a piece. The other team had two days of selling and had only knocked about $20 off the suggested retail price. Tommy was very upset about the team that priced === message truncated === Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Osnaburg ( silk question)
Hello, I found this definition - Osnaburg: A plainly woven cotton fabric with small flecks of cotton stalks remaining within the weave. Its appearance is similar to a coarse muslin. Sounds like flour sacking material to me. I found some gorgeous peacock blue silk - with a shimmer that changes color from the greenish to blueish peacock range depending on the angle of the light. I thought it would make a beautiful skirt lining or something? Would something like this be too OOP? (if it is, I think I'll add it to my collection anyway, but it would be nice to have an excuse) Annette M (someday I hope I can contribute as much as I get from here) - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 508
Wow, Thank you all for the great responses! That's her hair sticking out like a tassle. The hair style is very clear now - and a little odd. (but I might add, the recent trend of hairstyles that are in a similar vein - i.e. a twist in a large clip with the ends fanned up instead of tucked under - aren't so new after all are they?) The maid in the final tapestry A Mon Seul Desire shows the hair very clearly being wrapped around the head and twisted up into a tuft. You can see this by going to the Tracey Chevalier site as recommended by Michaela and clicking on the close up feature. Thank you for all the links, and I agree that the images on the Tracey Chevalier site are the clearest. The reproduction site was one of the first ones I came across that actually gave bigger images. Yes, they're more fantasy than anything else, but for a wedding dress who cares? They would all be lovely. I am not familiar with the belgian versions seen on this site, but there are fine books available of the French tapestries. I am sort of feeling the same way, but I am torn between wanting something I can use later for SCA events, and having something as a keepsake. However - the practical side of me is saying why spend all that time, energy and money on something I am only going to wear once? Why not wear it again? Annette M -- Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 16:59:20 -0400 From: Gail Scott Finke Subject: [h-cost] Re: unicorn tapestries Yes, they're more fantasy than anything else, but for a wedding dress who cares? They would all be lovely. I am not familiar with the belgian versions seen on this site, but there are fine books available of the French tapestries. That's her hair sticking out like a tassle. If I were making this (and there's one version on the French tapestries that I think is charming, bizarre though it is), I would use false hair the same color as my own. To me, it looks like false hair wrapped with ribbons and sort of draped around the had or headcovering or whatever you call it. There doesn't seem to be any attempt to make it look like her real hair -- there's no where for it to have come from! I made a sort of hat inspired by a different fantasy medieval artwork. I don't remember the original (gasp!) but it looked just like a long, long hank of fake hair wrapped with ribbons and tied around the head like a ribbon, with the two long ends making a big tail. So that's what I did. It looked just like the original, but I used really cheap hair and it drove me nuts. Little pieces kept getting out, they were like spun plastic and stuck everywhere. So if you do use hair, spend a few bucks on it! Gail Finke -- Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2005 17:01:33 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Netherton Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: unicorn tapestries In particular, the Cluny Museum sells a catalog about them, with large fold-out color images and lots of close-ups. It comes in an English version, too. My copy is La Dame a la Licorne, by Alain Erlande-Brandenburg (Paris: Editions de la Reunion des Musees Nationaux, 1979), ISBN 2711801187. I have used mine so much that the binding is in pieces. That's her hair sticking out like a tassle. I've made it work both on me (with my own hair) and on a friend (with a long blonde wig). Separate the hair into two halves down the back. Cross the two tails, and wrap each with ribbon while pulling it around and up the opposite sides of the head. Where they meet, use the ribbon to tie them together and then wrap them into a single tassel. If you do this over a draped velvet headdress such as is shown, you can make it sit so that it sticks up and the loose ends of hair at the top spout like a fountain -- really bizarre but just like the picture. This was part of the show-and-tell for a dress and textiles session that covered pavilions and the Unicorn Tapestry costumes, at the Medieval Congress in 1990... --Robin -- Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 00:31:46 +1200 From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other questions. 1. What on earth is on her head? She's got lappets worn without a hood/hennin etc. I've done the hairstyle myself: http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/yellowflemish.htm I found ythe style in a few other examples of allegory (one a supposedly English illumination, one German woodcut and another set of tapestries.) I chose to plait my hair as it is very long and would have hung down over my face like a pony tail if I had've done a simple wrapping on my hair;) My hair was crimped (plaits over night to give the hair body once brushed) loosely plaited (to make the plaits appear as large as possible) then crossed at the back (again to take up as much length as possible) tied at the end and then pinned to the top of my head. 3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 498
Thank Suzi, The 'simple' dress looks relatively easy. It is good to have an actual diagram of the pattern layout - makes it easier to visualize how it should go together. The 'red dress' pattern is virtually identical to the Hartley pattern (Medieval Costume...by Dorothy Hartley). Annette M Original Message: - From: Kahlara [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hartley dress and some questions. I've just realized that there is an event in three weeks I would like to have an outfit for and would rather not cobble something passable together out of my closet like I did for the first one I attended. Anyone have any hints or suggestions for something quick and easy? You could try this site for a couple of free patterns. Sally has done her research, and while some people might not agree with her conclusions, I have heard good reports of her patterns. http://www.sallypointer.com/simplemedievaldress Suzi __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: linen blends
Thanks for the responses! The real thing? Someday - when I am better at this and feel that I won't be wasting money on a mistake. :- ) Hopefully the heat won't be too much of a factor - up here in the Northwest an 85 degree day is in the high range even in August. I have noticed that Joanne's sometimes appears to mix things up, but the local one is pretty limited that way...a huge selection of craft supplies, quilting, and home decor fabrics (that part isn't so bad actually). The actual garment fabric section takes up less than 1/4 of the fabric department and is heavily into fleeces and specialty (bridal/prom, baby, holiday) fabrics. Completely natural fabrics are hard to come by. :- ( In that same vein...I have seen several eBay sellers that have linen. Anyone want to share any experiences with buying fabrics from eBay? Annette M - Today's lesson is about fabric. From: Gail Scott Finke Subject: [h-cost] Re: linen blends on 8/1/05 11:49 PM, kahlara wrote: I also have a question about linens - specifically the blended and synthetic ones. What sort of successes/failures have been experienced with these fabrics? The local Joann's often has them in 'suit weight' for less than $2.00 a yard and I was thinking this might be good for a first effort at a sideless surcotte. I've used these a lot for SCA gowns, and I always thought they were okay -- until I made things out of pure linen and pure wool. Now I think they stink. They are not stable -- they change shape while you are sewing them, even if you are good and iron them every step of the way. And they creep in the sewing machine. Pieces that start off the same shape don't end up that way by the time you finish the end of a seam. I was amazed at how pure linen and pure wool just stay put, even on the bias (cross)! And if you think linen wrinkles -- they wrinkle too, but they are floppier. On they other hand, they look pretty good and they are cheap. I still have some left and I do plan to use it. But next time I will starch everthing as I sew in hopes that it stays put a bit. If you just want something to wear and price is important, then buy it and expect a harder time sewing. It'll look fine. Gail Finke -- From: Lalah Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen blends While I prefer the 100% linen, I have used the blends and not had a problem. If you get the cotten/linen blend it acts and looks pretty much the same as pure linen. I am not fond of the rayon/linen blend. Just as a side note, I have found 100% linen stuffed in with the blends at JoAnne's several times. They don't seem to know or care that is is different, and the price is the same. You just have to look at the end of every bolt and maybe find one in a stack of a dozen blends. Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender -- I have used linen blends and find them oppressively warm compared to 100% linen. liz young - And that depends on the blend. Rayon blended with linen should not be so; polyester, however, may be. I think rayon is blended with linen mainly for lower cost; polyester is blended to make it more easy-care--less prone to wrinkles. Comfort is largely dependent on how well the fibers absorb moisture, and rayon is more absorbent than linen. Ann Wass - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 495
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 16:59:11 -0500 From: Betsy Marshal Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: everything - newbie delurking -Original Message- Two books I have been resourcing from (in addition to the multitude of web pages out there!) are Medieval Costume in England and France: the 13th, 14th, and 15th Centuries by Mary Houston, and Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It by Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions on these two books? [Betsy Marshal] Sorry to be late getting back on this! I recently acquired the Hartley book, and most of her reconstructed examples appear to be from theater/stage designs, so be aware that the appearance may be close to some of the manuscript illos, but the pattern/detail drawings are aimed at getting the Look as simply as possible. The original was published in 1931, so does not include the last 70 years of improved research and recent finds. That being said, if you want a decent appearance of medieval garb, you could do worse than to follow some of her examples- (N*rris leaps to mind.) most of the construction is rectangular, rather than fitted, and so will suit many body types over a wider range of size fluctuations than the closely fitted styles of later years. I hope this has been some help, Betsy (Planning at least one of Hartley's clerk's (over)robes for Pennsic- some of us Ansteorrans get a mite chilled that far north!) Thank you Betsy, I had the impression that the book was aimed more at theatrical costuming. It is nice to have a source of historial references/artwork without having to go on line or make a trek to the library. I thought her simple pattern for a dress with a very full circle skirt was interesting and wondered how accurate it was. The bodice and sleeve construction appear close to my understanding of typical T tunic construction. But it seems to me the skirt would not hang properly with either a heavy or stiff fabric. I have seen pictures that suggest this sort of construction with contrasting fabric in the side pieces, although I'm pretty sure the one that comes to my mind was made with gored side pieces. (now, if I can remember where I saw that) I was thinking that in a lighter weight fabric the pattern would make a nice underdress - with narrower sleeves. (The late 1920's photos of the theatrical modeling of her costumes were a bit of a hoot. :-) ) Annette M The more I research the more I learn - and d* it's fun! __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: everything - newbie delurking
Hello All, I joined a few weeks ago and have been lurking about and enjoying reading the different topics, finally ready to speak up. Have some questions and comments, but will give a short intro first. I have always been interested in historical and vintage costume. Love the Medieval period, especially the early to mid, (just starting to get involved with the SCA), but also have interest in Renaissance, Highland, latter 1800's/US Civil War era and Victorian, early 20th century to 1940's, and just about anything else. Also planning a Medieval/Celtic themed wedding for next year. The groom doesn't care about period accuracy, just wants to wear his kilt (I know, but...). I am interested in reasonable accuracy for the other clothing. If I am going to make the expense, I want to have things that can be later used for SCA events. Questions: Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for a Ghillie or Jacobite shirt or something of the sort (the more period appropriate the better), and a pattern for what is referred to as a 'Frontier' Gilet/doublet in the highland catalogs? Two books I have been resourcing from (in addition to the multitude of web pages out there!) are Medieval Costume in England and France: the 13th, 14th, and 15th Centuries by Mary Houston, and Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It by Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions on these two books? And does anyone know of other resources that show more of the French take on fashions of the period? Is there anyone on the list from the Seattle area (or Vancouver, BC)? I'm hoping to find some 'local' resources for appropriate fabrics as most everything here (Bellingham) is either devoted to quilting, or are multipurpose craft stores that carry limited garment fabrics (some of the home decorating fabrics are gorgeous though). Comments: T-shirts as undershirts - Weren't t-shirts under a man's shirt the proper dress until some Hollywood actor went without in a movie in the 50's? James Dean or Brando I think. Fashion future - I think the traditional sari outfit is beautiful. And it looks quite comfortable. There is some RTW that seem to have adapted this to 'modern' clothing. As for HPHBP - ssh - the only time I get to read is just at bed time and I keep falling asleep! Only to chapter two so far. :-) Cheers, Annette __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
