Re: [h-cost] Odd Chatter
I strictly avoid chat invites with people I don't know. Can't tell who they REALLY are or what the heck they REALLY want, and this iffy-er than any uninvited chats I've ever gotten. Just my two (paranoid) pence. Claudine - Original Message From: Stacey Dunleavy anastas...@gmail.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Thu, March 4, 2010 1:36:56 PM Subject: [h-cost] Odd Chatter I don't know if this is OT, but I was asked to chat with someone who is absolutely obsessed with boys in dresses. I was approached as a member of an inactive Yahoo sewing group - I assumed the person just wanted to talk construction and embroidery. She (there is a female persona with this chatter) has a link to an entire database of Victorian boys in frilly gowns, interspersed with some contemporary kilts and third world boys in sarongs. She claims to be Spanish, and her 8 year-old son is interested in wearing that style. It just seems to be a little fishy to me, and I wonder if this is a strange fetishist using an avatar of a seamstress mother. Any opinions? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Euphrosnia is wearing a boned red silk taffeta petticoat of the Tudor Tailor variety. It's finished, dramatic beautiful but came out much too large for me as I abruptly lost a lot of weight. Which means it might fit ME. (Just kidding, Cin!) For once my dummy ain't nekkid, she's wearing a Victorian corset, 1870s bustle, and ruffly-ruffly petticoat while I daydream about new outfits. Oh, and for lack of a better place to put it, an 1780s balloon-style hat. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] JKM ribbon
I've ordered from JKM and both the products and services were fine. But it took weeks for them to ship. You might also want to check out http://www.bbcrafts.com/. I've ordered from them also, got exactly what I expected, and they shipped more promptly than JKM. Claudine - Original Message From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, February 10, 2010 11:18:05 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] ribbons Well that explains it then! :) Thanks, Kimiko! My original request was for input on a ribbon source online: how good they were, if anybody had used them. The really weird thing was that when I checked my sent box just now, there was NO .sig file attached to my original email (I usually strip it out before sending to this list). And there was my original query, too: Have any of you used http://www.jkmribbon.com to order spools of ribbon? I'm printing for a wedding and we need 25 yd of 1-1/2 inch teal (or related) ribbon. It gets expensive at places like Joanns. I have a few good candidates from the JKM site, but an wondering what the Collective Mind says :) Thanks! ==Marjorie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OMG! The sale price
So...what's a more typical price for this sort of thing? I've never shopped for old photos. Claudine - Original Message From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, February 9, 2010 8:26:56 PM Subject: [h-cost] OMG! The sale price That dead bride photo sold for $255!!! Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 14 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edwardian pattern question
Can you provide us with a scan or photo of the picture you're working from? Perhaps someone will be able to provide you with a pattern for the right shape, that you can adjust to make it match what you want. Claudine - Original Message From: Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, February 10, 2010 8:08:13 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Edwardian pattern question Hi Fran, Thanks. Yes, I have a lot of the information on Thompson's, just not a source for the jacket on the cover of the reprint from Lacis. I suppose I'll have to give up and make my own pattern, but the original would be really cool. Laurie Taylor (480) 560-7016 www.costumeraz.blogspot.com snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
Renaissance Fabrics (online only) regularly carries cotton velveteen: http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?section=V Of course, colors are limited, but if you want something specific, send owner Diana an email, she might be able to find it for you. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
I've handled that fabric. It's medium-ish, not super heavy. I don't think it was meant for, say, drapes, at least not without a backing. Claudine - Original Message From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, January 19, 2010 12:36:15 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant) I'm quite taken with the olive green embossed velveteen. Anyone know how heavy it is? Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com On 1/19/2010 12:25 PM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: Renaissance Fabrics (online only) regularly carries cotton velveteen: Of course, colors are limited, but if you want something specific, send owner Diana an email, she might be able to find it for you. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
Ditto. I've never heard of such a thing. Even if it's couch weight, it may be useful for something costume-related. Claudine - Original Message From: Ginni Morgan ginni.mor...@doj.ca.gov To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, January 19, 2010 1:08:01 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant) Fran Could you please send me the links for the linen velvet? I'm very interested in it. Ginni Morgan Sacramento, CA Lavolta Press 1/19/10 12:48 PM Great. That's what I wanted to know. That would be a nice fabric for 1880s and 1920s, when some Renaissance-inspired fabrics were used. I refrained from listing links I found to some linen velvets because they were all sofa weight. Has anyone ever seen a linen velvet woven for clothing? Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Washing, irioning, and running repairs - was an amusing error
You can still get a mangle, the ironing kind: http://www.amazon.com/Miele-B990-Fold-Rotary-RELEASE/dp/B002UZGVR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8s=home-gardenqid=1263766228sr=8-1 Claudine - Original Message From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, January 17, 2010 1:38:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing, irioning, and running repairs - was an amusing error Yes, I was, because I knew a mangle as a device to wring water out of clothes before drying. However, another person here says there was a rotary iron, also called a mangle. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of landofoz Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 6:55 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing, irioning,and running repairs - was an amusing error I think the OP was pointing out the error of the order in which the author described the events of the laundry... Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1920s Men's bathing suit pattern
You can still catch your death of cold today: if, for whatever reason, you're stuck outside and wet, you'll get hypothermic much faster wearing a cotton sweater than a wool (or synthetic fleece) sweater. Cotton soaks up water and keeps it, robbing the fabric of any insulating qualities. Like Marjorie said, wool will still keep you warm. Sheep don't get hypothermic, after all. Some historic content: before the advent of synthetic, lycra-based performance fabrics, bicycling jerseys were made of wool knit, probably for both its insulative qualities (when it's wet/cold) and breatheability (when it's hot). They may have managed odors better than modern synthetics, too. Not that I've investigated. Ick. Claudine - Original Message From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, January 15, 2010 12:07:34 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920s Men's bathing suit pattern It wasn't the weight of the wool, it was its properties: wool is the only fiber that holds heat even while wet. In the 19th c, you really _could_ catch your death of cold, or so they believed. Up til the 1920s, most bathing suits were woolen. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Jan 14, 2010, at 10:29 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: I have heard that , in water, clothes do not weigh any more than when dry. It is after you get out that you feel the weight of the water. Clothes do create drag, though. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Downward Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 6:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920s Men's bathing suit pattern I've seen one too, in San Francisco. It was one that was rented at Sutro Baths, the large pool near Ocean Beach from the 1870s until the 1920s, I believe. There were several separate pools in the complex overlooking Seal Rock and men could rent a heavy swim suit for the day. I have no idea how they cleaned them. Yick. At any rate, the one I saw was heavy as AlbertCat said, heavy like a sweater. It weighed, dry, about the same as a heavy winter sweater. I can't imagine how heavy they were wet, but there are photographs of swarms of men in identical swimsuits on the edge of the pools. The one I saw also had the woven cotton underwear sewn into the bottom. LynnD On 1/14/10, albert...@aol.com wrote: just a bit heavier than T-shirt fabric. The two real one piece tank top vintage bathing suits for men I found at a flea market were knit but sweater weight (perhaps a bit denser, tighter stitch than a sweater). They also had a woven cotton underwear- like thing sewn into the bottom part. One was navy with a wide white stripe running horizontally at chest level. The other was black. Both were wool. Wool, y'know, will still keep one warm when wet. And sometime in the 1870's I believe it was considered a healthy thing to break into a sweat. Thus, a sweater was proper attire for tennis and the like. These ideas linger into the 20th century. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] stabilizer/facing material [was:Re: s-t-i-f-f-en agent]
How about the cheap, light-weight buckram (sometimes found at Hancock Fabrics)? It's fabric stiffened with glue so if you're willing to ignore the content of the glue and fabric, it's sort of period. Claudine From: Alexandria Doyle To: Historical Costume Sent: Fri, December 11, 2009 7:08:08 AM Subject: [h-cost] stiffen agent Does anyone have have suggestions of anything else that could have been used early to mid 16th century Germany as a stiffening agent and /or base fabric for this kind of project? thanks alex ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913 stays
Gorgeous! Now, sitting in those long-bodied corsets must have been...interesting. At least one shows creases where your thighs would bend. Did this style of corset last long? Is there an speculation that their extremeness might have contributed to their popularity being brief? I'd love to make one of these someday, garter straps and all! Claudine - Original Message From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 9:37:29 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1913 stays And here's a collection of the real thing http://laracorsets.com/Antique_corset_collection_5_Teens+WWI_corsets.htm MaggiRos snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What to look out for in India?
What to look out for...besides pick-pockets, which I'm sure you've already thought of. :P In Gujurat you might find Rajasthani block and roller printed cottons, seeing as Rajasthan is just a state (or 2?) away. You'll definitely find fancy woven or beaded or embroidered (or any combination) trims, which are sometimes cut off sari borders. You'll of course find saris, though in the north the preferred dress is a shirt and pants type outfit. Seems that modern tastes are for things made of poly with lots of very modern, bling-y patterns, so you may need to ask around for more traditional fibres and styles. Jewerly, of course, there will be lots of jewelry, and my brain wants to say that you should encounter lots of silver. Some of it might be applicable for historic use. Will you be traveling with someone who is Indian? If you yourself are not brown you may not get the best service, or may get taken for a naive tourist. If you don't have an Indian friend that can talk to the shop keepers then bargain very firmly. Also be aware that, depending on where you are, shop keepers can be VERY aggresive. They won't touch you, but they will get in your face. I mean that literally. This isn't universally true, of course, is some towns they shop keepers are quite laid back. Just not so much in the really touristy areas. Claudine - Original Message From: Sharon Doig po_box_...@yahoo.com.au To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 2:31:49 AM Subject: [h-cost] What to look out for in India? Hello My name is Sharon Doig and I am going on a textile tour to Gujurat, India. I like making Victorian, edwardian, 1940's, medieval and tudor gowns and hats. It's my first trip to India. Does anyone have suggestions, about what kind of things to buy or look out for when visiting a bizzar or a shopping street in India? Cheers Sharon Doig Australian Costumer's Guild Sharon Doig in Canberra - Australia E: po_box_...@yahoo.com.au Blog: http://www.rosiesstuffnsew.blogspot.com Make your mark and achieve success or, if need be, die in the attempt. Miriam Leslie __ Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started: http://local.yahoo.com.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer
I don't think you're thinking of stabilizer used for machine embroidery. I believe that type of stabilizer is primarily NOT iron on, though it does come in a sticky back style. I haven't come across any iron-on type, but then I haven't looked for any either. I'm not sure what Penny is having trouble with, but perhaps she can use the stabilizer to sandwich the slippy fabric, so that the feed dogs and foot are against the stabilizer and not the fabric. I've used plain old tissue paper like this, but not with the specific fabric Penny is working with. Claudine - Original Message From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 3:06:14 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer I hope someone can prove me wrong, but I don't think there is a tear-away stabilizer that *isn't* iron on. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about presentation
I'm really sorry that you're not going to write it. I really enjoyed the first two parts you wrote. Claudine - Original Message From: Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 7:45:45 PM Subject: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about presentation I was going to write something about presentation, but now I'm going to let someone else write it. I apologize to all the people who I promised this article to. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency sleeve puffs
Can anyone post a link to a photo of a dress that one would use sleeve puffs with? These are funny little things, and I'm wondering when you'd need them. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rabbit - was: What kind of fur would you use for this?
You are right about rabbit -- it usually sheds like crazy no matter what you do. Does it really? I just found some rabbit pelts at a local hobby supply store, and was wondering what I could use it for. Shedding is annoying. :( Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
As to your question: is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? I may be over generalizing, but I think every garment manufacturer and pattern company on the planet uses a different one. Period garments from before, say, 1960 (again, generalizing) weren't designed to fit with the same ease as modern garments, so modern measurement tables may not be appropriate anyway. Claudine - Original Message From: Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:42:54 PM Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment - question]
- Original Message From: albert...@aol.com albert...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:10:38 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question ... Also popular with costumers of this period is a slip-like undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all sewn together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the natural waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the period. A sheer gown can be worn over this. ... Albert, There's a garment like this illustrated in Hunnisett (the one that includes the Regency period). I've been calling it a bodiced petticoat, and don't offhand know what Hunnissett herself calls it. The bodice is shaped more-or-less like a sports bra (with gussets and no boning) and has an ankle-length skirt attached. Two of my friends made this garment at Costume College last year, and with proper fitting it does a fabulous job of lifting the bust high enough to get that typical Regency look. I haven't read Hunnissett's notes on this garment, so don't know what historical basis she has for it, but would like to know. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] All Hallows
An 1890s walking suit with a sash that says votes for women. Yup, I'm a suffragette. Don't forget to vote next week! Claudine (with apologies for the brief, non-partisan political statement) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] cleaning question
Baking soda? I've used baking soda paste (half baking soda, half water) to get tarnish off of silver jewelry. I don't know how silk reacts to baking soda, though. - Original Message From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 6:33:22 PM Subject: [h-cost] cleaning question On the cloth of gold thread, Bess mentioned cloth of silver. I have a small piece (about 1 yard square), but it is tarnished where it was exposed to the air when folded. Any ideas on how to remove the tarnish from the silver without harming the silk? Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hongreline, and velvet
English and North American, no, but I've seen two portraits of Marie Antoinette wearing what could only be velvet. Perhaps the writer didn't mean an article of clothing in velvet. In my understanding of the phraseology of the time (which is vague at best) wearing velvet could just mean a velvet ribbon or somesuch. Claudine - Original Message snipped Another question while I am here: I've been reading TH Breen's _The Marketplace of Revolution_ ,which I recommend to anybody doing 18th Century American historical costume, as to make his case he's assembled a lot of information from varied sources on the social connotations of clothing made of imported goods. Among the materials he quotes are published rants about people dressing above their station, and the threat to good order represented by maids in chintz. In at least one of these, the rant-writer is upset that even servant- girls go about in velvet. I had been under the impression that in 18th century fashion, velvet was primarily used in men's garments. Anybody have an example of a woman's velvet anything in the English colonies of North America in the 1700s? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Getting ready for Halloween
I think these costumes, and #2895, are modeled after the series Deadwood. Claudine - Original Message From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm severly out of time to do this, so I was looking at the Big4 patterns. I really like this one (the short version, top left) http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=2851 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] what use/time period: checked linen
A friend of mine is wondering in what time period, and for what purpose, one could use checked linen. I think the fabric she's looking at is a pretty fine check, a colored thread on a light or white background. I seem to recall checked fabric like this being used for work clothes, towels, aprons, etc. in the 18th century but beyond that I'm drawing a blank. Anyone have input? Thanks. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] I saw it!!!!!
I'm rather behind on email: what sleeve is this? I'd love to know. :) Claudine - Original Message From: Pixel, Goddess and Queen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 12:49:57 PM Subject: [h-cost] I saw it! I saw the sleeve! *bounce* *bounce* *bounce* snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] regency fashion plates website is gone?
Thanks! Hadn't thought to just punch some relevant words in to google. Perhaps I'll send her and email to give her a push to move the pages. Claudine - Original Message From: Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 2:50:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency fashion plates website is gone? Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Hello, Does anyone know anyone who is connected to this website: http://hal.ucr.edu/~cathy/index.html It contains really nice collection of Regency fashion plates, photographs, and Regency-related links, which I was perusing as recently as 2 weeks ago. Since then the server has been down. There were some specific images I wanted to look at again, but can't, and I'm pouting in a major way. I googled cathy and regency fashion and found this http://regencyfashion.org/ apparently the locutus server is having problems (hal is dead) too. I did find this http://www.chaffey.edu/english/faculty.htm which has her contact information on it. This is a university server, and she's still there, so I'd assume that it will be back ASAP. The other option is to try the wayback machine. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?
The first article has already been published. I think she said there's going to be a total of 3 articles. I don't know the answers to your questions (I didn't go to her turban wrapping class), and I don't think she's on this list, but you can ask her by sending her an email through her website, www.lynnmcmasters.com. Claudine - Original Message From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 7, 2008 10:23:26 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic? Did she figure out how to wrap the turbans by experiment, by examining originals, or by using some period millinery manual? When will the articles be published, I'd like to read them? Thanks, Fran [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great I would like to add that many Regency era turbans were evidently not extemporaneously wrapped on the head, but were instead built on a foundation.? We know Dolley Madison got turbans from France, for example, and the Hampshire County Museums has one in their collection, pictured in Hats by Fiona Clark.? Of course, one still had to wrap the fabric before attaching it to the foundation. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 9:37 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?] Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article. I read it last night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it. Sg Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?] Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/ I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the under turban; I don't know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a giveaway). Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]
Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/ I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the under turban; I don't know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a giveaway). Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums events
I'm quite fond of Zaanse Schans, which I believe you can drive to in about an hour, depending on traffic. Yes, it's awfully touristy, but if you're a mech-e-geek, and if it's open, there's a windmill that you can climb inside of (the one for grinding paints). It's not handicap friendly, and keep an eye on the little ones, or they may end up under the millwheel. It was going full-bore last time I was there, and it was darn neat watching the gears and shafts turn. It creaked like a tallship under sail (which it definitely resembles). Scratch the kitty's head at the ticket counter. Costume content: they make and wear clogs in traditional fashion. I think some of the docents and employees also wear traditional costumes. Do check what parts of the Rijksmuseum are open. They've been renovating there for umpteen years, and you'd think they'd be done by now? Also check what they have on display. When I was there, uh, maybe 7 years ago, they had a small wing devoted to 18th century court gowns and lace. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric
Apparently there's a clan McWong. I'm not making that up. McClaudine - Original Message From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:47:09 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric OMG! This is great!! Chinese Tartans??? Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:57 PM To: Historic Costume List Subject: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan: http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/ And it's kosher! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] preserving patterns
What I understand that folks do (or used to do, before computerization?) in industrial settings is to trace the pattern onto tag board. But you'd need a tag board set for each size. They last for ages, though. Claudine - Original Message From: Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 6:11:54 AM Subject: [h-cost] preserving patterns I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times, and make in more than one size. snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction [was: Pockets; was: Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches]
Replying to a couple of emails. Thank you to whomever found the photo at Museo de Traje (can't find that email at the moment). I'm adding it to my collection. :) Susan Farmer wrote: A lady in the SCA has her research (and the snippets from a couple of the paintings) here http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat's%20Soccaccia.html Yes, I saw this link posted earlier. Unfortunately, she says this is so without citing where she may have read it or why she came to such a conclusion. But I love these pictures, because they do predate the 1700s, and the pouches do so much resemble 18th century pockets in shape and style. I wanted to see the whole paintings, and fortunately Kimiko uploaded scans: http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/ModaFirenze/index.html She quoted a bit of what _Moda a Firenze_ had to say about these pocket-pouches, which the above website appears also to be quoting, and when I have a chance I'll have to crack open my copy and read up on it myself. Exstock wrote: As far as when they started carrying pockets goes, brace yourselves as I make a completely non-costume-geek-like statement: I mean really, how different are separate pockets and pouches anyway?! I couldn't agree with you more! I don't know why 18th century tie-on pockets are called pockets at all and not pouches, but pocket is a documentably period term. Congratulations on the house. House in the house! Sorry, I had to try. :) Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction [was: Pockets; was: Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches]
Belatedly chiming in (sorry, I'm always a few weeks behind in reading this list). Here's the webpage the picture of the pocket came from: http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/collections/pocketsofhistory.html They don't have a date for the specific pocket being discussed, and their image database won't be online until 2008 (hello? it's 2008 already!), but they do mention that their pockets date from 1700 to 1800. The shape and embroidery on this pocket is very typical of pockets seen in the 1700s (as in, there's dozens of similar extant examples, many of them American). So, I'm afraid it's really unlikely that this pocket dates to the 1600s. To the person who asked about making a pocket like this one: it's most likely crewelwork, and you can find diagrams of very similar pockets in (and I may need to verify): Fitting Proper by Sharon Ann Burnston Costume Close-Up by Linda Baumgarten et. al. 18th Century Embroidery Techniques by Gail Marsh and lots of pretty pictures at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/pockets/collections/index.html If there were tie on pockets *before* the 1700s, well, it certainly could be possible, after all, these pockets couldn't have spontaneously appeared in the year 1700. :) Claudine (who collects photos of 18th c. pockets :) ) - Original Message Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 15:40:46 -0500 From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii I remember reading that it was early 1600s but I am not 100% sure of the year 20. It was list in either Elizabethan or Jacobean. De -Original Message- At 00:02 06/05/2008, you wrote: I think it was from the Museum of London site. The pocket I believe said that it was listed at about 1620. There are very few pockets from pre1600s. Presently I can not find the site. The embroidery seems very 18th century to me - are you sure it was 1620? I have looked at a large number of pockets, and pictures of, for a small project I am working on, and have never seen one dated that early. Some of the MoL items are not always dated accurately, or with a very wide range of dates, as I have found while working there, as a volunteer. Suzi De * Kate Bunting Cataloguing Data Quality Librarian University of Derby ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Machines
Fran wrote: But I could do the downloads myself, right? As I do for the s/w on my I've done them myself (when I remember to actually do them). BTW, are their embroidery sticks machine-specific in any way, or can you use any computer data stick/flash drive? I've used whatever USB stick/key/flashdrive I have handy, which usually isn't the one that came with the machine. However, the dealers are required to tell you that they can't offer technical support if you don't use the Viking stick or one on their approved list. You can also transfer embroidery designs by plugging the machine directly into your computer, the machine has a USB port. I think it appears like another harrdrive on your machine, I haven't done this in a while so don't remember. Ditto what Nancy said, June is the big Viking dealer convention and they're announcing the new machine then. Which means used Designer SE's may flood the market (including mine, *wink* *wink*). Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] hammered silk? (was: On-line sale on silk and wool fabrics!)
Can someone please tell me, what is hammered silk? Google isn't turning up a definition. Is it a process? If so, what is the base weave? Claudine - Original Message From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 1:24:57 PM Subject: [h-cost] On-line sale on silk and wool fabrics! I received an email from Denver Fabrics about a sale on silk and wool fabrics. Here's the direct link to the sale fabrics: http://www.denverfabrics.com/Cart/catalog_items.aspx?Query=silk%207.00 Your friendly fabric stash facilitator, Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls
Popping out of lurking. I'll contact Bjarne off-list and fill him in on some fun places onlineto discuss BJD's.. But I also request that this discussion be droppedfrom the list, since it's so waay off topic. :) Cindy: Momoko has ball joints and therefore is, technicially, a BJD (some people prefer ABJD for Asian Ball-Jointed Doll). There's a bit of an elitist attitude out there that if the doll isn't cast resin, 60cm or 42cm tall doll in the style of the Volks Dollfie that it' isn't a BJD, and shouldn't be included in BJD discussions. Others, though, are far more inclusive, and are happy to talk about Momoko, Syberites, and Tonner's Ellowyne Wilde. I know you're generalizing, but I will raise my hand in saying that Volks dolls are not my own holy grail. I personally am a bigger fan of more realistic sculpts, such as those made by Elfdoll. Volks dolls happen to be the most expensive in their size classes. You can find similar dolls for hundreds of dollars less, and if that's still too rich for you, you can go down in size to 42cm (aka MSD), and even smaller sizes (I have several that are only around 5 tall). To wrestle in at least a little on-topic commentary: as other's have mentioned, BJD's are great to sew for because they have very correct proportions, except for their ridiculously long legs. Ok, some also have ridiculously large boobs. There's a couple of folks out there doing historic clothes and shoes for these dolls, and some of the doll clothing companies have been doing psuedo-historical stuff for a while. Ellowyne Wilde and her size counterpart Evangeline Ghastly have some really nifty, psuedo-Victorian outfits. If you're interested in more information, contact me off-list. And now back to lurking. :) Claudine (playing with BJD's since 2005 :) ) - Original Message From: Abel, Cynthia [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 8:52:16 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls Bjarne: I searched for ball jointed dolls+groups on Yahoo and there are several groups as well. Check out: www.denofangels.com for lots of information on BJDs. U.S. Doll magazines Haute Doll and FDQ carry lots of info on BJD's as well. She isn't exactly a BJD, but I started collecting(if two dolls is collecting}a multi-jointed doll called Momoko. She is 1/6 scale and 10 1/2 tall. A dainty 5'3 in comparison to Barbie's more substantial U.S. beef fed 5'9 in real scale. Originally Japanese made, she is now produced in China, which has cut her price 1/3 - 1/2 of the Japan Petworks dolls, and increased production numbers. Volks dolls in Japan is the Holy Grail of most BJD fans--you can have a doll custom made for about $700 and up in U.S. dolls. There is also a U.S. showroom and production center in California. Hope this helps!! Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 10:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls As some of you had these dolls, my question is: Are there any groups you can join to talk about these dolls? Thanks in advance Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] dying red to get russet
Hello! Coming out of the lurking woodwork to ask a question about dyeing. I've done a little dying before, but don't claim to have any sort of clue! I have a piece of 100% cotton chamois flannel (which, by the way, is lovely for faking the look of some wools) and it's a slightly pale red (barn red according to the label). I really want a more russet red, if that's the right name, sort of a more orangey, browny, warm, deep shade. Think fall colors not Christmas. So, what color dye or dyes should I use to turn my pale red to this color? Brown? Orange? More red? An art store in my area carries Procion/Jacquard dyes, so that's probably what I'll be using. I'm not fixated on a specific color, I just want something different than what I've got! Thanks in advance, and apologies if I don't reply, I'm creeping back into the woodwork now. :) Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
