[lace] Knitting terms.
Sorry to put this on the Lace Digest, but I have been asked what WRAP STICH pos WRAP STITCH is. Can anybody tellme, please? I have looked in my english Handikraft encyclopedia, but cat find anything. Thanks! Ewa Eskilsson in the very South of Sweden, where we have got a fore taste of s autumn storms to come! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Buddy lace map - websites
Hello, While looking at members of buddy lace map I realized that opening some websites causes an error (it's a white page starting with text Oh, no, for some reason, this page could not be found . I think, that the reason is that the address is wrong - for instance Julie Enevoldsen has the address http://www.buddymapping.com/maps/lacefairy/weft.wlonk.com instead of http://weft.wlonk.com/, that means you must erase the part of address www.buddymapping.com/maps/lacefairy/ to achieve the lacepage of a member. So check everyone if your address is inserted into the map correctly ! Regards Lucy Kudrnova Prague, Czech Republic, web http://lacespider.blog.cz/rubriky/in-english - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Knitting terms.
Hello Ewa Wrap Stitch isn't a standard knitting term (as far as I know). It sounds as though it's a special technique used for a particular pattern which should be described in the list of stitches/techniques used for that pattern. I'll guess that it means to wrap the yarn around the needle twice to make a big loop. perhaps to allow several increases in the same stitch in the next row. Brenda On 17 Sep 2007, at 07:15, Ewa Eskilsson wrote: Sorry to put this on the Lace Digest, but I have been asked what WRAP STICH pos WRAP STITCH is. Can anybody tellme, please? I have looked in my english Handikraft encyclopedia, but cat find anything. Thanks! Ewa Eskilsson in the very South of Sweden, where we have got a fore taste of s autumn storms to come! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Knitting terms.
I've let my knitting knowledge get dusty, but another possibility for the wrap stitch is that the yarn is wrapped several times around the needle, and when worked once on the return row gives very LONG legs to that stitch... useful in a number of ways, although standing on its own would look strange. Clay -- Clay Blackwell Lynchburg, VA USA -- Original message -- From: Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello Ewa Wrap Stitch isn't a standard knitting term (as far as I know). It sounds as though it's a special technique used for a particular pattern which should be described in the list of stitches/techniques used for that pattern. I'll guess that it means to wrap the yarn around the needle twice to make a big loop. perhaps to allow several increases in the same stitch in the next row. Brenda On 17 Sep 2007, at 07:15, Ewa Eskilsson wrote: Sorry to put this on the Lace Digest, but I have been asked what WRAP STICH pos WRAP STITCH is. Can anybody tellme, please? I have looked in my english Handikraft encyclopedia, but cat find anything. Thanks! Ewa Eskilsson in the very South of Sweden, where we have got a fore taste of s autumn storms to come! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re.Wrap Stitch.
Isn´t Arachne a wonderfull invention! Within 10 minutes after I sent my cry for help about WRAP STITCH I got my first replay and answer!Thank you all so much for your contribution and your time! Woodward, Catlady, mjau in swedish, Diane Williams, Helene Ward and Rochelle Sutherland, to name but a few! And I have not yet recieved this current Lace Digest! Humbly yours, Ewa, in the south of sweden. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello Achim pattern no. 30 (Helen, the straight variant without corners) from Stott, G.: A Visual Introduction To Bucks Point Lace - probably some of you have a copy of that book. - How many twists should be between headside passive pairs and the gimp surrounding a motif? I do two twists to make the motif stand out clearer. - How many twists when entering a motif containing cloth stitch? I do one twist, but I think I read there could be none at all (P. Nottingham?), so that there's no gap between gimp and cloth stitch filling. So, coming with the worker through the headside passive pairs, I twist twice, go through the gimp (lift left), do one more twist and start cloth stitch. Right or wrong or simply depending on taste? This subject was covered quite extensively by the OIDFA Point Ground group and and along with all the other minor variations in working methods came to fruition as 'Point Ground Lace; a Comparative Study' published by OIDFA in 2001. - now something where you need to see the pattern mentioned: I cant figure out how to do the first, i.e. topmost, pin/stitch in the S shaped motif below the tiny one pin circle. I come with two pairs into the motiv, twist both pairs once (see question above) and then I should do cloth stitch. But where and when do I put the pin? If there wasn't a hole in the pricking, I'd just do a cloth stitch row and put the first pin on the right after two stitches. But as is, I could put the pin between the two pairs before making the stitch, or I could put it between or even to the left of the pairs after making the first cloth stitch. The technical drawing doesn't show the pin holes, so I cant decide by that alone. This particular start of that motif is different than all the others - usually you begin a motif with a normal cloth stitch row (going through only 1 passive pair). Or can it be simply an error in the technical drawing? I think that the first pinhole is there to go between the pair from the little circle and the pair coming in from the left to become the worker, just to give that worker pair something to be tensioned against. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
As it's so unusual quiet here, I dare to ask some questions regarding Bucks, especially pattern no. 30 (Helen, the straight variant without corners) from Stott, G.: A Visual Introduction To Bucks Point Lace - probably some of you have a copy of that book. - How many twists should be between headside passive pairs and the gimp surrounding a motif? I do two twists to make the motif stand out clearer. - How many twists when entering a motif containing cloth stitch? I do one twist, but I think I read there could be none at all (P. Nottingham?), so that there's no gap between gimp and cloth stitch filling. So, coming with the worker through the headside passive pairs, I twist twice, go through the gimp (lift left), do one more twist and start cloth stitch. Right or wrong or simply depending on taste? - now something where you need to see the pattern mentioned: I cant figure out how to do the first, i.e. topmost, pin/stitch in the S shaped motif below the tiny one pin circle. I come with two pairs into the motiv, twist both pairs once (see question above) and then I should do cloth stitch. But where and when do I put the pin? If there wasn't a hole in the pricking, I'd just do a cloth stitch row and put the first pin on the right after two stitches. But as is, I could put the pin between the two pairs before making the stitch, or I could put it between or even to the left of the pairs after making the first cloth stitch. The technical drawing doesn't show the pin holes, so I cant decide by that alone. This particular start of that motif is different than all the others - usually you begin a motif with a normal cloth stitch row (going through only 1 passive pair). Or can it be simply an error in the technical drawing? Hopefully I could describe this sufficiently - if it's too unclear, I can maybe put a picture of the particular spot in the technical drawing somewhere on my website. And maybe I'm just too perfecionistic about my lace - I really want to do it right! (Who said anal? - I heard that!). Thanks for all suggestions, Achim in Berlin - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Knitting Terms
Hi Ewa, I found this Question and Answer by Googling for the term Knitting Wrap Stitch. In the Answer the writer seems to explain fairly clearly how to work a Wrap Stitch, but obviously it would be easier to work the stitch at the same time as reading the instructions rather than reading the instructions alone without the knitting in your hands, as I am doing at the moment. See how you get on following the explanation given. http://www.woolworks.org/misc/wrap.html Also this page has an explanation for Wrap Stitch, including when it would be used, that you might find even clearer to follow. http://www.kimhargreaves.co.uk/acatalog/Help.html Scroll down the page a little way for find the paragraph Wrap Stitch. Regards Jenny DeAngelis. Spain. Sorry to put this on the Lace Digest, but I have been asked what WRAP STICH pos WRAP STITCH is. Can anybody tellme, please? I have looked in my english Handikraft encyclopedia, but cat find anything. Thanks! Ewa Eskilsson in the very South of Sweden, where we have got a fore taste of s autumn storms to come! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Dear Achim, - How many twists when entering a motif containing cloth stitch? I do one twist, but I think I read there could be none at all (P. Nottingham?), so that there's no gap between gimp and cloth stitch filling. So, coming with the worker through the headside passive pairs, I twist twice, go through the gimp (lift left), do one more twist and start cloth stitch. Right or wrong or simply depending on taste? I used to do what you are doing, but found from making Chantilly lace, that the motif looked better to my eye, if I did NO twists inside the gimp. That way the filling - whether it be whole or half stitch - comes right up to the gimp. And maybe I'm just too perfecionistic about my lace - I really want to do it right! (Who said anal? - I heard that!). You can't be :) David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Knitting terms.
Dear Ewa Brenda. Wrap Stitch isn't a standard knitting term (as far as I know). It sounds as though it's a special technique used for a particular pattern which should be described in the list of stitches/techniques used for that pattern. I'll guess that it means to wrap the yarn around the needle twice to make a big loop. perhaps to allow several increases in the same stitch in the next row. I'm fairly sure that many years ago when I was knitting lace from Italian patterns they used a wrap stitch when you take the yarn and wrap it horizontally many times around, say, the next 7 or so stitches, before knitting into them. This was used to make the stamens in a flower and was very frustrating to do. I ended up having to use a very fine crochet hook to get the yarn through them all. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello Brenda, This subject was covered quite extensively by the OIDFA Point Ground group and and along with all the other minor variations in working methods came to fruition as 'Point Ground Lace; a Comparative Study' published by OIDFA in 2001. I was going to buy that anyway since I like tulle lace so much. And I heard of a new edition of a book about threads that I want to order along with it, if it's already available at Barbara Fay's ;). I just hope I wont have to start the lace again because I did everything wrong ... it shall be the border of a lace pillow that will get a new felt inlay and cover. The pillow is 54 cm in diameter, so I'll have to do 170 cm (67 inches) lace for it. I think that the first pinhole is there to go between the pair from the little circle and the pair coming in from the left to become the worker, just to give that worker pair something to be tensioned against. I'll have to check when I'm back home from work, but I think that's exactly what I ended up doing, since everything else felt a bit awkward - I put the pin in before doing the stitch. Thanks a lot, Achim in Berlin - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello David, Achim and all others, in Chantilly I learned as a rule: coming from point-ground3 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 2 twists behind the gimp going into point-ground2 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 1 twist perhaps this helps Ilske - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Bobbin received
The antique bobbin I won in the raffle by Debbie Mouzon arrived safe and sound today. She had also packed the bobbin very securely compared to the OIDFA bobbin - which also arrived safely! These raffles are such fun. Jeanette Fischer, Western Cape, South Africa. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Knitting terms.
Wrap stitch might also refer to the short-row technique in which one wraps the yarn around the first of the stitches that aren't knitted before turning and knitting back. The wrap may be picked up and knitted together with the stitch later on, but in a bumpy fabric needn't be. -- Joy Beeson http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/ http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A. where the beans and corn are drying up, and a few fields have been combined. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lieres Kant, Tambour Limerick
On 17 Sep 2007, at 12:10, Mandolyn Day wrote: Are these laces basically the same, or is there a significant difference them with the only similarity in the tools tulle used to do them? As others have written, they are similar. There is a needlerun Limerick lace and a tamboured Limerick (both done on tulle). I make Coggeshall but take my designs from any of the tambour lace books. A key point that hasn't been mentioned so far is that the tulle should be cotton and the 'holes' must be six-sided. This tulle is very difficult to find in Canada Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lieres Kant, Tambour Limerick
As far as I am aware Liers Kant and Tambour lace are one and the same, Coggeshall lace is the English tambour lace, made in the area of Coggeshall Essex. I am not sure about Limerick lace but it could be a needle run lace on tulle, whereas the Tambour laces Liers Kant and Coggeshall are made with the barbed Tambour Hook over Tulle. The Tulle being stretched over a frame/Tambour. I day a little of Coggeshall lace when I lived in England in he 1980s and in 1994 at the OIDFA conference here in Barcelona I spoke to a Belgian lady who was wearing a large and absolutely beautiful Liers collar that came half way down her back in a deep V shape. She told me that it was made with a tambour hook just the same as the Coggeshall tambour hook that I used. As Brenda told you, wear a dark skirt or put dark fabric over your lap when working on white tulle, Put your ball of thread in some sort of plastic pot with a tight fitting lid that has a hole pierced in it so that the thread runs out of the pot freely, you can then stand the pot on the floor under your frame. Have a piece of Cork, from a bottle, to stick the tambour hook point into when not in use and be very careful with the hook and your body as once the barbed hook goes into your skin it can do a lot of damage if you just pull it out. I got mine stuck in the back of my hand and had to go to the Doctor to get it removed otherwise the barb would have torn the skin badly. I keep my hook in one of those aluminium cigar tubes. Regards Jenny DeAngelis. Spain. I want to do Lieres Kant, Tambour or Limerick lace. I've done some research, ordered supplies some books none of which has arrived yet. Am I correct? Are these laces basically the same, or is there a significant difference them with the only similarity in the tools tulle used to do them? - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lieres Kant, Tambour Limerick
Hi, Yes, Limerick, Coggeshall, Lier tape laces are similars. The difference is on the style and some stitches are more use or not. I readed that Limerick tape lace came from Coggeshall who came from Luneville (in East France). In Luneville now, they don't use tulle. There is run lace in Limerick and in the past in Lier too. Not now. To learn 2 good books for me : Embrodered machine nets Limerick and worldwide by Pat Earnshaw. You can find it on amazone uk Lierse kant: oude en nieuw by Greet Rome You can find it in Scharlaeken in Brugge for exemple : http://www.scharlaeken.be/en/?item_id=11460oper=cms Tulle can be in silk too. Impossible to find now I think. You can use 4-sided too but it's very different and more easy. In Europe, you can find tulle. For exemple, in Scharlaeken too : http://www.scharlaeken.be/en/?item_id=11146oper=cms or in england in Jo Firth. Dentellez bien Sof from France with rain Margot Walker a écrit : On 17 Sep 2007, at 12:10, Mandolyn Day wrote: Are these laces basically the same, or is there a significant difference them with the only similarity in the tools tulle used to do them? As others have written, they are similar. There is a needlerun Limerick lace and a tamboured Limerick (both done on tulle). I make Coggeshall but take my designs from any of the tambour lace books. A key point that hasn't been mentioned so far is that the tulle should be cotton and the 'holes' must be six-sided. This tulle is very difficult to find in Canada Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Buddy map
I spoke too soon because when I went back to check the map on BuddyMap, my dot looks like it is in Wisconsin, not in northern Illinois. Also Susie Johnson made my picture smaller and sent it to me but I cannot access the Edit function. Does anyone know how to do that? I remember seeing it the first time I entered my info as I didn't add my web site and was able to do that. Is there a webmaster I can contact to correct my position on the map? Lace content: We had a visitor on Saturday at our LACE guild meeting, Arachne, Mika Steflickoa from the Czech Republic. She brought lots of Czech magazines, samples of lace and cd's of lace for us to look at. She will be visiting us again next month and we will be working on lace that day. Saturday found us making scarecrows out of burlap and raffia. Lucky me, she left all the magazines etc., in my care so I am having a lace overdose. Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA http://jblace.wordpress.com/ http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hello Jacquie, I know Achim said she twists twice then lifts the left hand thread to pass the gimp through, Yes, just that I'm a he (I'm not too sure about that sometimes, but last time I checked I was ;-). but if you study it you will see you only then have one twist left before the gimp. Even clearer, just do one twist, lift the left hand thread, pass the gimp through and voila, no apparent twist. You're right - that's something I also noticed. ... half an hour later ... I just tried all that with really thick threads and watched what happens. With lift left one twist ends up on the side of the gimp I'm working towards and is gone from the side where you'd think it would be. With lift right the gimp cant slip through the twist. Since I only did one pattern repeat, I'll try your method for the next - I'll twist twice before the gimp, pass it through by lifting the right bobbin and then make no further twist but start the cloth stitch at once like David also suggested. Chantilly as taught by Lia Baumeister also uses lift right so the twists stay on the side where you do them. Jacquie, in a very wet and miserable Lincolnshire. There were 24°C today here in Berlin - probably one of the last warm days this year. Thanks a lot for the long explanation - very instructive! Best, Achim. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Hallo Ilske, Hello David, Achim and all others, in Chantilly I learned as a rule: coming from point-ground3 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 2 twists behind the gimp going into point-ground2 twists honeycomb 2 twists half-stitch 1 twist perhaps this helps Das werd' ich mir für die nächsten Chantilly-Spitzen notieren, danke! I'll remember that for the next Chantilly lace I'll do. I just got Chantilly - Techniek en patronen from the Nederlandse Kantopleiding - some beautiful patterns in there! Hummel, Hummel nach Hamburg, Achim (gebürtiger Uetersener). - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Lierse Kant, Tambour Limerick
On Sep 17, 2007, at 11:10, Mandolyn Day wrote: I want to do Lieres Kant, Tambour or Limerick lace. I've done some research, ordered supplies some books none of which has arrived yet. Am I correct? Are these laces basically the same, or is there a significant difference them with the only similarity in the tools tulle used to do them? In Lierse Kant (Liers Lace) and in Coggeshall Lace, both the chainstitched outlines and the fillings are made with the tambour hook. In Limeric Lace, the chainstitched outline is made with a hook, but the fillings are made with a needle. All three are made on hexagonal tulle. Tambour, as such, can mean different things, including attaching sequins to fabric (not tulle) with a chain stitch, using a tambour hook. The non-lacy tambour work on fabric goes back a long way time wise and a long way away from Europe; it's used, extensively, in decorating Indian and Pakistai clothes, for example. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Beginner's questions about Bucks point lace
Also when you are talking about the number of twists to do after gimps, it depends on which way you do your gimps. I know Achim said she twists twice then lifts the left hand thread to pass the gimp through, but if you study it you will see you only then have one twist left before the gimp. Even clearer, just do one twist, lift the left hand thread, pass the gimp through and voila, no apparent twist. I usually teach my students to lift the right hand thread as this then leaves in place behind the gimp the number of twists that you think you have. Another twist sits above and below the gimp (this is where the second one disappears to when you lift the left hand thread) and a second one 'closes the gate'. The reason why I teach to lift the right hand thread is that this is all you have to remember. If you lift the left hand one you have to remember to twist twice first; remember, if you don't, you are left with no twist at all. Having passed the gimp through, if you want it held in place with twists you can see that only one still 'leaves the gate open', you need the second one; you don't need to remember it. So, if you want to have no twists after the gimp when going into cloth stitch (and this is what Pat Read taught me for Bucks; match the twists to where you are going) lift the right hand thread, pass the gimp through and go straight into cloth stitch. This way the gimp can snuggle down close against the clothwork and give a better outline than if it's held off at a distance by twists. Jacquie, in a very wet and miserable Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: beginner's question about Bucks Point lace
Please bear in mind that my statements refer only to making Bucks Point lace. When I took classes on Bucks Point lace, I had this pattern as one of my lessons. I actually just worked the corner because in this particular lesson, my teacher was teaching me to start a piece of floral Bucks Point on a corner. In my classes, I was taught that the purpose of the gimp is to highlight or outline a design. For that reason alone, I would not want my gimp to lay close to my design...and that may be why it is usually surrounded by twists in any piece of lace where it is used that way. As far as how many twists it needs, the general consensus at that time was that there should be one always (two was traditional), but if a stitch surrounding the gimp has more than one twist in the stitch, then the number of twists should match the stitch. With that in mind, when working point ground stitch, the bobbins will be twisted three times before passing the gimp through them...when working honeycomb stitch, there will be two twists. After passing a gimp through a pair of bobbins, the same rule would apply; entering point ground, twist three times, and entering honeycomb, twist two times. Twist once before entering an area of cloth stitch. As far as Pamela Nottingham saying that there could be no twists, I believe Mrs. Nottingham was referring to a time when there would be two gimps lying alongside each other. There should be no twists between them, so that there is not any separation there. I did a quick check through her book on Bucks Point to find this information. Regarding which bobbin to pick up, I was taught that it is always the left hand bobbin. I had never heard of picking up the pair on the right side, but my lessons were accomplished while I was living in England, and at that time I was getting intensive training in English laces, so I had also never heard of the different European names for stitches, or different ways of working those stitches! I don't know if picking up the left hand bobbin is an English way of working with gimps, but this is the method described by Geraldine Stott in this book, so I would stick with it. It is also the method in most English books printed at that time...which is the time I was learning. In fact, I worked this corner before the book you are using was out of the printers. Now, concerning the little pin hole under the one-pin circle... I am sure that if it is supposed to be there, it is there for support only, but you should also consider that it could be printing mistake. There is a pattern in 100 Traditional Bobbin Lace Patterns called May that has a pinhole error like this. I'm not sure that any support is necessary for a worker that is only passing through this one pair before it makes the edge stitch... so I would think it is up to you whether you ignore the pin or use it. You have received so much good advice! This group is a wonderful resource, but always bear in mind that different areas use different terms and even different methods. Working lace differently does not make a method wrong. I hope you will not wait too long to get started on this wonderfully frustrating little design! Perfection is something to personally strive for, but not necessarily to demand from yourself. I have been told that when the Amish are working their needlework, that they put a mistake in on purpose because they believe perfection belongs only to God. I have not found the need to put one in on purpose, because I seem to leave plenty of mistakes accidentally! Happy lacemaking! Debbie in Florida [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] wrap stitch
Both of these are correct: Wrap stitch is not wrapping. It is a way of making a smooth turn in short row knitting. Thanks to both Jenny and Joy. Wrap stitch might also refer to the short-row technique in which one wraps the yarn around the first of the stitches that aren't knitted before turning and knitting back. The wrap may be picked up and knitted together with the stitch later on, but in a bumpy fabric needn't be. WRAP STITCH A wrap stitch is used to eliminate the hole created when using the short row shaping method. Work to the position on the row indicated in the pattern, wrap the next st (by slipping next st onto right needle, bringing yarn to front of work between needles and then slipping same st back onto left needle on foll rows, K tog the loop and the wrapped st) and turn, cont from pattern. ttp://www.woolworks.org/misc/wrap.html is a fairly complicated description and not as easy to understand. Tess ([EMAIL PROTECTED])= - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Gothic German help needed
Gentle Spiders, In Nüw Modelbuch, there are several patterns which use a motif, made with 4 pairs (usually two plaits feeding into it). The motif looks very much like like a single rose of the Flanders Ground or modern Roseground (5 holes, the central one being slightly larger than the 4 corner ones). The mysterious RM, who put the pattern book together in 1561, seems to have names for various motifs (whether they were her names for them or traditional, she doesn't say) -- there are stars and cushions and chess and (I think) dice and other such descriptive and imaginative names. The names aren't always consistent -- sometimes the same element is named one thing and sometimes another. But they're all interesting. Unfortunately, Claire Burkhard, who had made some of the patterns available to us (Faszinierendes Klöppeln), wasn't any more consistent than RM; sometimes she translated the pattern's name and sometimes she didn't :) In the case of the litle roses, she didn't... :( Now comes my problem. My German is pretty much non-existent; I had a little bit of it, 40 yrs ago, and it has all rusted through due to non-use (my Russian, which used to be fluent is not much better at this point, for the same reason). But, even 40 yrs ago, I was never taught the old alphabet... I cannot even decipher some of the letters in the Nüw Modelbuch, which means I cannot translate them well enough to even consult my (addmitedly very small -- college edition) modern dictionary. I'm hoping one of our German members will be able to help me; I know we learnt old Polish script and print in school and I expect the same had been true also for German natives learning their mother tongue. If I could send someone scans of the the word (in several contexts; it seems to be spelt differently depending on whether it starts with a capital or lower-case letter), perhaps you could tell me what its modern eqivalent is? I could then check the dictionary... Of course, if you could actually *translate the word* for me, I'd be doubly grateful; like I said... my dictionary is very small... Yours, hoping, T -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
