[no subject]
Thank you Aldele and others for your convention report. I have enjoyed the few that have responded. Just the same I hope I will get to read other reports. I am looking towards tomorrow when I will hear if I am going to get in the class I wanted for Ithaca, New York Lace Days. I am hoping to get in the wire lace class but I understand that this is a real popular class so that may not happened. Holly's class would be good too. Tomorrow is suppose to be the day when names will be drawn to place lacers in classes by lottery so we will see what will happen. Who on the list is going and what classes are you hoping for. Wind To Thy Wings, Sherry New York, US of America celticdreamwe...@yahoo.com http://celticdreamweaver.com/ http://celticdreamweave.blogspot.com/ Nata 616 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Eye of the Needle
Many thanks for your report, Jane. I am visiting the Ashmolean on 23 August and have tickets for this exhibition. I hope I enjoy it as much as you. Jill Milton Keynes, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Little Danish Heart pattern
Dear Lyn, Is this the same as Little Heart of Denmark, with prickings, instructions and photos of straight edging, corner turning and curved lace? If so, our newer lace makers will find it in the 1991 Batsford book The Technique of Tonder Lace by Inge Skovgaard, ISBN 0-7134-6255-8, pattern 9, page 56. Perhaps it has been re-scaled in the pattern you bought in Sweden? Finished lace is about 1/2 inch wide. The thread sizes are different: 10 pairs with 140, 1 bobbin with 35/2, 1 bobbin with 35/3 -- or wind 11 pairs with 140, 1 bobbin with 35/3. (The 35/2 passive gimp in the footing may be replaced by a pair of threads -- something for all lace makers to remember, since shopping for threads can be difficult.) When it comes to English speakers knowing about Danish Tonder (pronounced Turner) lace, we stand on the shoulders of the late Inge Skovgaard, who did so much for OIDFA in the early years, and arranged for the English-language version of this book. It is a classic, and sells for an inflated price. However, if you are a member of a large lace guild with a library, you can borrow it (IOLI, The Lace Guild, for example). The name is appealing. So is the lace. Historic pieces are usually added to attire of Danish royal babies and brides. Ironically, I was researching Danish laces last night, and re-reading Pomp and Poetry - Lace Through 400 Years, published by the Danske Kunstindustrimuseum in 1991, to serve as catalog for a lace exhibition, ISBN 87-87075-741. It is partially in English; enough to enjoy. Her Majesty Queen Ingrid (1910-2000) served as Protector for the exhibition. On page 79, there is a 1941 photograph of Queen Alexandrine (1879-1952) at her lace pillow at Amalienborg Palace. On the following page is a dainty collar made from 5 curved rows of the little heart pattern. This reminded me of my visit to this Copenhagen museum before traveling on to the 2000 OIDFA Congress in Lund Sweden. There is a lace room way at the back of the museum, and in a drawer I found lace made by the Queen. Perhaps it was the Little Heart of Denmark pattern. Our Danish members will know. It was at this museum, in the lace room, that I first met the late Elaine Merritt, an Arachne member who served OIDFA as a Vice President from the U.S.!! Recommendation: If you meet someone in a lace gallery in a mostly empty museum who is intensely interested in the laces, speak to them -- you may find you know them via Arachne! Lyn, maybe a U.S. thread supplier has a suitable thread? I've been working with lace in a concentrated way since about 1980, and remember there was a supplier who was sending lace threads to a Scandinavian Palace! There! Lots of things to G**gle and search for in Arachne archives. I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. So sorry, since my free-to-you contributions might suggest a subject for dinner conversation or a local lace group meeting. Maybe I am just writing for future researchers who will delve into Arachne archives? Or, maybe our archives will die and evaporate (as our early correspondence did), and all will have been for naught. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- In a message dated 8/13/2014, lynrbai...@desupernet.net writes: I bought the pricking for Little Danish Heart, (Danska Hjartan) from the Svenska Spetstar a couple years ago, and am now ready to start. It appears that the thread required is linen 160/2 or 180/2 with gimp of 25. Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Little Danish Heart pattern
Maybe *some people* don't read what you write on Arachne but I'm sure there are enough of us who do to justify asking you to continue. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. Sent from my iPhone On 14 Aug 2014, at 16:44, jeria...@aol.com wrote: Dear Lyn, Is this the same as Little Heart of Denmark, with prickings, instructions and photos of straight edging, corner turning and curved lace? If so, our newer lace makers will find it in the 1991 Batsford book The Technique of Tonder Lace by Inge Skovgaard, ISBN 0-7134-6255-8, pattern 9, page 56. Perhaps it has been re-scaled in the pattern you bought in Sweden? Finished lace is about 1/2 inch wide. The thread sizes are different: 10 pairs with 140, 1 bobbin with 35/2, 1 bobbin with 35/3 -- or wind 11 pairs with 140, 1 bobbin with 35/3. (The 35/2 passive gimp in the footing may be replaced by a pair of threads -- something for all lace makers to remember, since shopping for threads can be difficult.) When it comes to English speakers knowing about Danish Tonder (pronounced Turner) lace, we stand on the shoulders of the late Inge Skovgaard, who did so much for OIDFA in the early years, and arranged for the English-language version of this book. It is a classic, and sells for an inflated price. However, if you are a member of a large lace guild with a library, you can borrow it (IOLI, The Lace Guild, for example). The name is appealing. So is the lace. Historic pieces are usually added to attire of Danish royal babies and brides. Ironically, I was researching Danish laces last night, and re-reading Pomp and Poetry - Lace Through 400 Years, published by the Danske Kunstindustrimuseum in 1991, to serve as catalog for a lace exhibition, ISBN 87-87075-741. It is partially in English; enough to enjoy. Her Majesty Queen Ingrid (1910-2000) served as Protector for the exhibition. On page 79, there is a 1941 photograph of Queen Alexandrine (1879-1952) at her lace pillow at Amalienborg Palace. On the following page is a dainty collar made from 5 curved rows of the little heart pattern. This reminded me of my visit to this Copenhagen museum before traveling on to the 2000 OIDFA Congress in Lund Sweden. There is a lace room way at the back of the museum, and in a drawer I found lace made by the Queen. Perhaps it was the Little Heart of Denmark pattern. Our Danish members will know. It was at this museum, in the lace room, that I first met the late Elaine Merritt, an Arachne member who served OIDFA as a Vice President from the U.S.!! Recommendation: If you meet someone in a lace gallery in a mostly empty museum who is intensely interested in the laces, speak to them -- you may find you know them via Arachne! Lyn, maybe a U.S. thread supplier has a suitable thread? I've been working with lace in a concentrated way since about 1980, and remember there was a supplier who was sending lace threads to a Scandinavian Palace! There! Lots of things to G**gle and search for in Arachne archives. I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. So sorry, since my free-to-you contributions might suggest a subject for dinner conversation or a local lace group meeting. Maybe I am just writing for future researchers who will delve into Arachne archives? Or, maybe our archives will die and evaporate (as our early correspondence did), and all will have been for naught. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- In a message dated 8/13/2014, lynrbai...@desupernet.net writes: I bought the pricking for Little Danish Heart, (Danska Hjartan) from the Svenska Spetstar a couple years ago, and am now ready to start. It appears that the thread required is linen 160/2 or 180/2 with gimp of 25. Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Michigan license plate
Good heavens--I came up with that? I'm not usually that clever! :-) I think that the license plate discussion should move to Lace-Chat soon. Lace-related license plates are a bit off-topic for lace. Thanks, Avital Arachne moderator On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 4:00 PM, David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.au wrote: Here in Australia it cost me about $500 about 4 years ago and we can choose what we want but no more than 6 characters; providing it hasn't been taken and also that it's not suggestive. For tears I'd been hoping theyd extent it to 7 characters so I could have LACEMAN, but alas no. So I put it to Arachne to come up with 6 characters that inferred male lace maker and lo and behold it was our own Avital who did it. So now my car registration is LACEXY and I can keep it for life. That has 4 double entendres. See if you can work them out. David in Ballarat, AUS -- Blog: http://apinnick.wordpress.com Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/spindexr/sets - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Eye of the needle
Yes its an amazing collection of needlework. I'm glad magnifiers were available, the stitches are unbelievably tiny. I went to the lecture by the curator before visiting the exhibition. She told us the the Fellers were the family that own the butchers in the Covered Market! I never would have guessed, as a vegetarian I always look away when passing their shop as there is always something I don't want to see! Christine (Oxford UK) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Little Danish Heart pattern
Dear Jeri, While I have looked at Inge Skovgaard's book in the past, I do not have it, so I cannot tell if it is the same pattern. In any event, the pattern I have definitely is not Tonder, as the ground is Dieppe ground, and not point ground. It measures, per the pricking notes, 1.5 cm, which would be about the same. Not only has Brenda Paternoster told me that the equivalent thread is Egyptian 70, the Svenska Spetsar answered my email to them and said the same. I will thus be putting aside that excellent advice and trying Aurifil 50, which is actually an equivalent of Egyptian 60, because Aurifil 50 feels so much more like linen that it is worth winding 11 pair to see if it works. But I have Egyptian 70, so I am good to go in any event. Sadly Aurifil does not come any finer than 50. I had googled the 160 thread, and it does not appear anywhere, which is consistent with what I know of linen thread. We use Egyptian cotton. As for your other concern, losing emails, and others not reading out emails, I look at it this way. Not everyone will want to read what I write, and that is fine with me. I cannot please everyone, and I do not try to, although I do try to please as many as I can without strain. However, if what I write interests even one person, my effort will not have been in vain, even if the email then disappears immediately. Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, where the weather continues gorgeous. We did have rain, but at night, and no flooding as they did on Long Island, east of New York City. We are not accustomed to so much beautiful weather. Usually at this time of year the air conditioning is on, and any walking or outdoor activity is done in the early morning before it heats up. Not this year. Jeri wrote: Is this the same as Little Heart of Denmark, with prickings, instructions and photos of straight edging, corner turning and curved lace? If so, our newer lace makers will find it in the 1991 Batsford book The Technique of Tonder Lace by Inge Skovgaard, ISBN 0-7134-6255-8, pattern 9, page 56. Perhaps it has been re-scaled in the pattern you bought in Sweden? Finished lace is about 1/2 inch wide. The thread sizes are different: 10 pairs with 140, 1 bobbin with 35/2, 1 bobbin with 35/3 -- or wind 11 pairs with 140, 1 bobbin with 35/3. (The 35/2 passive gimp in the footing may be replaced by a pair of threads -- something for all lace makers to remember, since shopping for threads can be difficult.) Lyn wrote, I bought the pricking for Little Danish Heart, (Danska Hjartan) from the Svenska Spetstar a couple years ago, and am now ready to start. It appears that the thread required is linen 160/2 or 180/2 with gimp of 25. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] How can you estimate thread
I have just finished drooling over the most beautiful piece of Russian lace, it was a bolero/waistcoat/shrug type garment. Fairly simple but so elegant I want to try to draw a pattern in a similar way as I have no idea where I could buy a pattern like that. All the russian lace patterns I have are picture type things, or collars. I almost made one of those but got involved in another longer project for my Mum in the time I could have used for it so didnât actually get it done.I think I would get much more mileage out of a waistcoat than a collar. BUT by question is how on earth do I calculate the amount of thread I might need to purchase at the same time to make sure I had enough for the whole thing. I have tried in the past to estimate for a set of napkins and have lots of spools in my box waiting for me to maybe make some lace for a tablecloth to match maybe, but I dont want to be short of thread either. I have chosen my thread of choice (Gutterman silk) and also the colour of choice as I have one in my box. Most of the pattern will be trails of tape/braid so just passives and joining links and then little bits of pattern, but not much between areas once I work out what I like and how to draw it onto my pattern. I am hoping to make this my big project for after the christmas pieces are done, so to be worked over december, january and february maybe so it gives me chance to attempt the pattern and get that right before I begin, but I would like to get the thread before that is done and I can begin. Sue T Dorset UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Little Danish Heart pattern
Dear Jeri, While I rarely comment I am compelled to remark on your statement I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. I want you to know I read your your writings and appreciate you sharing your knowledge with all of us. I don't believe I am the only one. The person who told you this should have confined her comments to an I statement. She doesn't speak for me. Best Regards, Carol Melton Valley of the Sun - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] How can you estimate thread
Hello Sue and everyone For a pattern for a garment, using a minimal number of bobbins, the broad answer is 'lots' of thread. Passive pairs use a measured amount, the length of the trail. Weavers, lots more, at a guess 3 to 6 times the length of the passives depending on the pattern, and the amount of filling. If using a sewing edge/pin after 4 the weavers trade places so less thread is needed per weaver pair than when using one weaver pair all the way through, but the weavers will still need 'lots.' One can get a good idea of the amounts per passive by placing a single thread all along the curving trail, then measuring that thread. I do this for the entire length if it is a small Russian tape pattern, could get away with measuring a quarter of the design if it is large, multiply by 4 for the length per passive bobbin. Allow more thread on the passive edge pairs for the extra twist, if using CTCT at the edges, and especially for the passive pair that will depart with the weaver to do any fillings, and though it seems a small amount allow for the tethers on all bobbins as well! Hope this helps. On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 10:10 AM, Sue su...@talktalk.net wrote: BUT by question is how on earth do I calculate the amount of thread I might need to purchase at the same time to make sure I had enough for the whole thing. I have tried in the past to estimate for a set of napkins and have... -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] How can you estimate thread
Thank you for the voice of sanity, My mind couldn't consider where to begin but having read this it is so obvious and I bet several of you are laughing at the screen right now. So first to find a paper pattern shape and start playing with a pencil. I knew it would be lots of thread especially the worker pair but thank you for reminding me about the next one too it as well which obviously does go off wandering a bit more than just the straight passing way.Yes your answer helps a great deal so I will save it to file for later on. Many thanks Sue T Hello Sue and everyone For a pattern for a garment, using a minimal number of bobbins, the broad answer is 'lots' of thread. One can get a good idea of the amounts per passive by placing a single thread all along the curving trail, then measuring that thread. I do this for the entire length if it is a small Russian tape pattern, could get away with measuring a quarter of the design if it is large, multiply by 4 for the length per passive bobbin. Allow more thread on the passive edge pairs for the extra twist, if using CTCT at the edges, and especially for the passive pair that will depart with the weaver to do any fillings, and though it seems a small amount allow for the tethers on all bobbins as well! Hope this helps. Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Little Danish Heart pattern
Carol wrote to Jeri: I want you to know I read your your writings and appreciate you sharing your knowledge with all of us. Dear Jeri, Carol is right! I also read your writings and have learned a lot from it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Anneke Reijs, in Baexem, The Netherlands ann...@reijs.nl www.reijs.eu - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Jeri's posts
I'm sure Jacquie is right here... Jeri, I can't claim to read _*all*_ your posts in detail - some of the topics are of more interest to me than others, and with limited time for emails I have to skim-read many posts - but I've learnt a lot from the ones that have caught my interest and I know other people appreciate your articles on subjects I'm not as interested in. Even if the archives disappear a considerable amount of information will already have been absorbed by other lacemakers or saved in their files, so your articles will not have been a waste of effort. Regards Beth Jacquie Tinch wrote: Maybe *some people* don't read what you write on Arachne but I'm sure there are enough of us who do to justify asking you to continue. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. jeria...@aol.com wrote: I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. So sorry, since my free-to-you contributions might suggest a subject for dinner conversation or a local lace group meeting. Maybe I am just writing for future researchers who will delve into Arachne archives? Or, maybe our archives will die and evaporate (as our early correspondence did), and all will have been for naught. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] How can you estimate thread
Sue The only way I can think of is by ratio and proportion. Design a small square for a design similar to what you plan for the bolero and work it in the same thread you plan to use. Measure the square cm. When you get the finished shape of the bolero, measure its square cm. Go by ratio. Or go by weight. You will know, or can measure the weight of 1 spool of the thread you will use. (Most manufacturers give you the weight rather than length in meters or yards.) You then measure the weight of the finished little square. Then do a ratio equation. Y = sq cm of little square W = weight of finished square of y sq cm bolero = S sq cm S/Y = H how many little squares make up the size of the bolero H x W = T TOTAL WEIGHT of thread needed for bolero Z = weight of thread on spool T/Z = number of spools of thread you will need Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] How can you estimate thread
But don't forget that even the middle, straight cloth stitch passives use more than the length of the braid, as they are going up and down through the weave. The edge passives are used along with the workers for any plaited/leaf fillings so they can need a lot more thread. The cable or chain gimp(s) (which is/are what give Russian lace a lot of their texture and impact) are constantly twisting so also need more than a direct measurement. As far as I can see the colours on Gutterman's silks are constant enough that you could work the first section and then buy as many spools as that indicates you'll need. Do some samples to be sure you want to work it in silk, how many pairs (worker, 2 twisted edge passives, 2 or 4 plain passives, 1 or 2 gimp pairs) and to choose what thread you are going to use for your much thicker gimp. Russian lace normally is made with a matt finish thread with the thick gimp sometimes having a sheen. More important is to think what pillow you're going to use to work a large project like this, where there will be times you are working towards yourself, at the far side of the lace. If you don't get it right you'll have nagging back and shoulder ache and not be able to work the long hours needed to finish it in three months. The bolero (assuming it was the pale blue one that's been on Facebook today that you saw) was probably worked on a large bolster pillow which allows you to twist and turn with the lace, and stay relatively close to where you're working, but you'd need to work palms up with open stitches. Not easy to start off with. If you are doing your own design may I suggest that you do it such a way as you be able to work just the fronts, or the whole thing. Start with a front and then if you can see part way through that either time or dedication constraints make the whole thing unachievable, you could make just the fronts with a fabric back. Unless you work fairly fast, it can get tedious to do. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Jeri's posts
I am coming out of lurking as well to say that I too read your posts Jeri, there is always something new and very informative and helpful in what you freely offer and I, like so many, appreciate your knowledgeable and helpful contributions. It must take quite a bit of your time so thank you for what you contribute. Lynn S in Australia - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] Jeri's posts
Jeri how can any of us presume to know what others do? I for one file your information for future reference after reading and have used it in talks at my local Lace Guild meetings and other groups. I too have posted on Arachne with no response from the masses but that doesn't mean that no one read my posting. We all wait for someone else to respond or read it too long after the event to think that a reply is polite. My email files are huge as I am always behind in my reading but file and keep anything of interest once read. Thus my folders on conservation, book reviews, history of lace and lace identification are huge! In all I have around 60 folders but can usually find anything that comes to mind. It is just the librarian in me I guess! And there are so many librarians on this list! Since Arachne started I have never just trusted the archive but have made my own. At times I have sent files of emails on a topic to friends when asked. Thanks again for using your resource centre and your knowledge to educate lacemakers worldwide. Don't' stop. Many do read and appreciate! Best regards Annette in Wollongong, Australia Beth Marshall wrote;I'm sure Jacquie is right here... a considerable amount of information will already have been absorbed by other lacemakers or saved in their files, so your articles will not have been a waste of effort. Regards Beth Jacquie Tinch wrote: Maybe *some people* don't read what you write on Arachne but I'm sure there are enough of us who do to justify asking you to continue. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. jeria...@aol.com wrote: I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. Maybe I am just writing for future researchers who will delve into Arachne archives? Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- - --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Jeri's posts
I LOVE reading what you write! Please continue to contribute. Of course not every post will pertain/be of interest to every person. There are so few posts anyway. I remember when this forum was THE place to go for information. Now I don't know how to connect with other tatters/lacemakers. I don't have the time to go to a site and then sift through the discussions such as InTattersI wish I did have the time. I also don't have the time to sift through FB or other venues. I liked the fact that articles would come to me and I could quickly skim through them to find the ones of interest to me. Karen Bovard The ShuttleSmith Omaha, NE website and tatting blog: http://www.theshuttlesmith.com/ come check out my new Enameled Copper (Glass) Tatting Shuttles! On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:27 PM, Beth Marshall b...@capuchin.co.uk wrote: I'm sure Jacquie is right here... Jeri, I can't claim to read _*all*_ your posts in detail - some of the topics are of more interest to me than others, and with limited time for emails I have to skim-read many posts - but I've learnt a lot from the ones that have caught my interest and I know other people appreciate your articles on subjects I'm not as interested in. Even if the archives disappear a considerable amount of information will already have been absorbed by other lacemakers or saved in their files, so your articles will not have been a waste of effort. Regards Beth Jacquie Tinch wrote: Maybe *some people* don't read what you write on Arachne but I'm sure there are enough of us who do to justify asking you to continue. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. jeria...@aol.com wrote: I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. So sorry, since my free-to-you contributions might suggest a subject for dinner conversation or a local lace group meeting. Maybe I am just writing for future researchers who will delve into Arachne archives? Or, maybe our archives will die and evaporate (as our early correspondence did), and all will have been for naught. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] Jeri's posts
This has been interesting because I didn't receive Jeri's post, nor Jacquie's. I did go back to check because someone else (Sue?) replied to Jeri about thread, and I thought -'that's weird, I don't remember seeing that' and now I hadn't seen these messages either. Interesting that both of these are aol messages. Perhaps when I think Jacquie hasn't replied to me, she has, but I just haven't received the message Malvary in Ottawa where it is only 14c and showery. Jacquie Tinch wrote: Maybe *some people* don't read what you write on Arachne but I'm sure there are enough of us who do to justify asking you to continue. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. jeria...@aol.com wrote: I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. So sorry, since my free-to-you contributions might suggest a subject for dinner conversation or a local lace group meeting. Maybe I am just writing for future researchers who will delve into Arachne archives? Or, maybe our archives will die and evaporate (as our early correspondence did), and all will have been for naught. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] How can you estimate thread
Dear Sue, I would add to this. I have two cloth stitch tapes on the side of my altar cloth pattern. I actually measured the distance the worker pair went per pass, multiplied it by the number of passes per motif, so I had an idea of the amount needed for the worker pair. I then multiplied that figure by 1.5 so I could go without adding a pair and allow for twists and inaccuracies. This is not a foolproof method, and I suggest doubling the figure you get for the actual use to allow for the way lace eats up thread, but it is a start. I keep notes on how much thread I wind on, and how much is left over so I know if my method works. Usually I wind too much thread, but that is better than the alternative in my opinion. I'm using linen, and that's relatively cheap. If I were using an expensive thread, I might think differently. Thread is the cheapest thing we use to make lace. When I know how much to put on a bobbin, and it's a number of yards, but could be meters, I wind the amount on a yardstick first, and put the right amount on the bobbin. When I'm done, I measure how much is left, roughly on the bobbins if it's significant, so I can be more accurate the next time. I don't do this for everything, certainly, but when I'm doing the same pattern over and over, this record keeping can help winding a more accurate amount of thread the next time around for the same patterns, and I'm making 3 strips of each size. Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA My email sends out an automatic message. Arachne members, please ignore it. I read your emails. Bev wrote: For a pattern for a garment, using a minimal number of bobbins, the broad answer is 'lots' of thread. One can get a good idea of the amounts per passive by placing a single thread all along the curving trail, then measuring that thread. I do this for the entire length if it is a small Russian tape pattern, could get away with measuring a quarter of the design if it is large, multiply by 4 for the length per passive bobbin. Allow more thread on the passive edge pairs for the extra twist, if using CTCT at the edges, and especially for the passive pair that will depart with the weaver to do any fillings, and though it seems a small amount allow for the tethers on all bobbins as well! Hope this helps. Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Jeri's posts
I too, although usually a lurker, read and save Jeri's posts. Thanks Sent from my iPhone On Aug 14, 2014, at 2:44 PM, M Lynn Scott bunnyrosena...@gmail.com wrote: I am coming out of lurking as well to say that I too read your posts Jeri, there is always something new and very informative and helpful in what you freely offer and I, like so many, appreciate your knowledgeable and helpful contributions. It must take quite a bit of your time so thank you for what you contribute. Lynn S in Australia - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] To Jeri.
Dear Jeri, I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. ... What Nonsense!!. (that is the polite version of what I said on reading the digest just now!! I really used a good Aussie expression! :) ) I am sure most people on the list, are like me, - and read every word. Your knowledge, and generosity in sharing it with us all, is amazing, and we Love to hear from you. . Whoever said that is talking Utter Nonsense. What an offensive remark to make. Regards from Liz in Melbourne, Oz. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Jeri's posts
Jeri, I think I can speak for others when I say that your contributions are valuable and well-written. Sometimes the value of your postings isn't apparent until much later, when someone searches the archives. The only problem that I can see is that sometimes it's very hard to receive your posts because of your AOL address, but that's not something the recipients can control. We had a recent discussion about spam filters trashing AOL messages (I had to create a filter so that I could receive your postings). I hope that you will continue to post and share your considerable store of knowledge with us! As for the AOL problem, at some point you might want to consider setting up a Gmail account, while continuing to use AOL as your ISP. Avital in hot, sunny, relatively rocket-free Maale Adumim, Israel On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 6:44 PM, jeria...@aol.com wrote: I was told again this week, that people do not read what I write on Arachne. So sorry, since my free-to-you contributions might suggest a subject -- Blog: http://apinnick.wordpress.com Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/spindexr/sets - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
