[MBZ] Tybee Island A/C compressor woes 1982 300TD
Folks, We're down on Tybee Island (Savannah) for the next couple of months. Granted, that's no sacrifice, BUT occasionally we do leave the island and with the air conditioning out in the 1982 300TD, it's no fun in the coastal heat. OK. Good working system until today. On my way down here a week ago, it was occasionally screeching ... i assumed belt was slipping, etc. Today, when i fired the car up on vegetable oil (somehow i doubt if that relates to the ac problem), it screeched, loudly, i stopped to look and smelled the stench of burnt clutch lining. We did our trip with the windows down (at least they work) and when i got home and things cooled down a bit, i tried to turn the compressor. It seems to be pretty locked down. I can only turn it about 10 degrees back and forth. Our other car is a peugeot 505 sw8 (with working ac). I checked that one and i can easily turn the compressor by hand. So, can ac clutch failure jam things up? Or, did failure of the compressor cause clutch failure in that order. I assume i have to evacuate and save the R-12 (yes i'm running that), replace compressor, then evacuate and recharge the system?? The compressor is a round (delco? r-4??)looking object like one would find on an old american car. I saw it replaced by the previous owner maybe 5 years ago. I don't know if he used rebuilt or new. I'll bet the car hasn't been driven 20,000 miles in that time. What's the expected life of such a rebuilt compressor? Sources?? Expected cost, numbers of correct models, etc? Feel free to reply to me directly as well as to list. I'm going to the beach, now, but my wife wants me to fix this!! thanks, xx rick Rick Hawkins about 10,000 miles WVO 82 300TD www.javaphoto.com www.javacycles.com
[MBZ] OkieQ, 2 weeks away
OK folks, the okieq is 2 weeks away now. If you have not RSVP'd yet now is the time. If you need hotel info let me know so you can get your reservations in. The main event will be an afternoon affair with exact time to be announced. Probably will start around 2 probably. For those folks who want to go to the gum museum etc, which is always a favorite, be here early. For those interested contact me offlist and i will get things set up. If anybody is in town friday night we will get together for some bbq or something. Anyway, here is the list of attendees to date. If your name is not on the list and you plan to come, let me know ASAP. Kaleb Kaleb Striplin Regina Striplin Lt Don John Robbins John Gregg Rick Knoble Mark Carlson Mitch Marmell Marshall Booth(maybe) B2(maybe) Luther Gulseth Dan Holden (Dr. Biodiesel) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came
Fluid is fine. The pepto car is the 190D Craig McCluskey wrote: On Fri, 09 Jun 2006 20:48:17 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500 rpm? Well all the sudden today its back to normal. Wierd. So how's the tranny fluid? Is that the car that had PeptoBismol? I have trouble following which car of yours has what. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Electronic AC servo on sale.
is that the kit to replace the servo? If so, Rusty is getting beat. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just got my Performance catalog yesterday and the electronic AC servo is on sale for $499, marked down from $699. This is the type two servo that fits the 107, 116, and 123 chassis from the mid 70s to early 80s. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came
dude, walmart dextron is about all I use anyway, I cant tell a bit of difference. Mitch Haley wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500 rpm? Well all the sudden today its back to normal. Wierd. If I were you, I'd drain and fill with Walmart Dexron III, drive it at least 1000 miles and then change fluid and filter, with M1 if I were going to keep it or give it to Regina. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] it left as mysteriously as it came
yea, thats what Im thinking. Although iirc when I hit the switch before when it was acting up it still kicked down though. Marshall Booth wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Remember all the sudden the SDL tranny wouldnt shift till about 3500 rpm? Well all the sudden today its back to normal. Wierd. A stuck kickdown switch could do that (stuck then, not now). Marshall -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
electronic leak detector archer wrote: If you convert to 134-A can you then go back to R-12 using your 134-A set of gauges? R-134-A doesn't do a very good job of cooling my MBs. I'm currently trying to find a second leak in an '83 300D. The first one was the pressure switch on top of the dryer which is now fixed. I'm using UV dye to look for the leaks, and I've wasted four cans of Freon trying to find it under the hood. Can someone tell me the best way to find it under the dash since that must be where it is? Thanks, Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D - Original Message - From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 3:36 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times Isobutane/propane refrigerant will work very nicely. However, if you have a leak, air leaks in while the hydrocarbons leak out, and you can get an explosive mixture fairly easily. The result can be a detonating compressor (don't laugh, I've seen it). You also risk a large explosion if you have an accident that punctures the condenser. You must indeed charge by pressure, adding 2.2 lbs of propane will definitely burst something. When whatever it is ruptures, you can get a propane/air explosion. R134a isn't much more expensive, is inert, and conversion isn't that hard. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
Ah, but in fact air will diffuse through a small leak against a pressure gradient -- something I have trouble convincing the technicians at work of as well. If the evaporator is very cold due to low charge, you can and will get below atmospheric pressures occasionally as well, and a big leak will allow considerable mixing of air into the propane. The propane is vastly more explosive than the oil -- this is, in fact, why hydrocarbon refrigerants are illegal in cars, not because they don't work well (very low temp cryo freezers run pentane, I belive, or propane, for the low temp part), but because of the explosion hazard. There should be about 4 oz of oil compared to a pound or so of volatile propane. Only the oil mist is explosive, but the entire charge of propane is, and the oil; mist will drop out of explosive mixture range very quickly, while the propane has to be diluted out with air. Use at your own risk. Propane will leak out about the same rate as R134a -- with good hoses and new o-rings, I wouldn't expect to charge every year. You still have a leak, likely a compressor shaft seal (look for oil behind the drive pulley) or in the manifold or hoses. If it won't hold a vacuum overnight, it's leaking! A small nick in an o-ring will dissipate a charge over the summer and be fairly hard to find -- as I've learned on the TE. Peter
Re: [MBZ] 617.950 617.952 differences
But a 124 with a 603.96 engine is faster yet! Marshall Hows that compare to a 210.025 :) eg -j. (1999 210.025/125.6k Miles) (1985 123.133/222k Miles)
Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
The high side o-rings on the pump to manifold seal, right? These are known to erode with age -- the heat and pressure are highest here. They died on the TE before I converted, but only failed big time afterwards. I redid the body seals and found when I took the manifold off that I probably didn't need to -- after I took the front cover off. This is a normal failure, not related to use of R134a. The new o-rings intended for R134a are the same as the old ones. They did look much like rats had been chewing on them. Ditto for the manifold to hose set seals -- had to replace those o the 300D, leaked out all my R12. Polyester oil will either sit on top of the mineral oil, or emulsify it and circulate it. Either way, it works fine. Most of the non-dissolved oil will end up in the pump anyway, where it is needed. PAG oil will not dissolve the mineral oil, and you should not mix mineral and PAG. If you are converting, dump all the mineral oil out of the compressor and replace with the correct amount of PAG. Peter
Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
I use a GowMac thermal conductivity leak detector I picked up on eBay for $35 -- they run $3500 or so new. Very sensitive, but use with caution with flamables, they use a heated platinum wire as a detection device. It actually compares the heat conducting ability of a sample of air pulled through a probe to the heat conducting ability of the environmental air. Work great except you have to watch a needle (old style, the newer ones click too) and cold, wet air gives a good signal, just the opposite of Freon! Peter
[MBZ] this is nice
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300-D-1975-Mercedes-Benz-300-D-Deisel-Low-Miles-53-500K_W0QQitemZ4647971863QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
The high side o-rings on the pump to manifold seal, right? These are known to erode with age -- the heat and pressure are highest here. I'd assume so, but I no longer remember. They looked bad, like chunks had been forcibly removed, nothing like dissolvement. This is a normal failure, not related to use of R134a. The new o-rings intended for R134a are the same as the old ones. They did look much like rats had been chewing on them. The new green ones were expensive, and in my particular case, on back-order. As I was returning to R12-ish world I went with the black ones. Polyester oil will either sit on top of the mineral oil, or emulsify it and circulate it. Either way, it works fine. Most of the non-dissolved oil will end up in the pump anyway, where it is needed. PAG oil will not dissolve the mineral oil, and you should not mix mineral and PAG. If you are converting, dump all the mineral oil out of the compressor and replace with the correct amount of PAG. I flushed my pump with gasoline to remove the PXX oil (no clue as to what it was, the conversion tag was no help), more-or-less dried it out, and put back in the specified amount of mineral oil. Time will tell whether this will hold up or not, this car is presently not being driven since we're still trying to sell the 450 SL and can't justify the expense of keeping more than one convertible on the road. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Tybee Island A/C compressor woes 1982 300TD
OK. Good working system until today. On my way down here a week ago, it was occasionally screeching ... i assumed belt was slipping, etc. Today, when i fired the car up on vegetable oil (somehow i doubt if that relates to the ac problem), it screeched, loudly, i stopped to look and smelled the stench of burnt clutch lining. We did our trip You sure this wasn't good old burning belt? The AC clutch is a metal-on-metal affair, there is no friction material. If the compressor proper seized the belt could slip making a stink. pretty locked down. I can only turn it about 10 degrees back and forth. Standard seized compressor it sounds like to me. Is this the hub? Or just the outer part where the belt goes? So, can ac clutch failure jam things up? Or, did failure of the compressor cause clutch failure in that order. If only the clutch failed, in theory it is separately replaceable and could not have harmed the compressor proper. I assume i have to evacuate and save the R-12 (yes i'm running that), replace compressor, then evacuate and recharge the system?? If the compressor itself seized, your system is probably full of pump shrapnel. Not good. Requires heroic efforts to clean out. The compressor is a round (delco? r-4??)looking object like one would find on an old american car. It is, though there is some talk about a big X on it indicating that it has an inverted internal oil path for upside-down operation. I saw it replaced by the previous owner maybe 5 years ago. I don't know if he used rebuilt or new. I'll bet the car hasn't been driven 20,000 miles in that time. What's the expected life of such a rebuilt compressor? Generally low. Conventional wisdom here is that only a new one will hold up. Good used is OK, and is $15 at the U-Pull, but is of unknown condition. Sources?? Expected cost, numbers of correct models, etc? Good old Harrison R4. Try Rusty! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
The gasoline should have done a fine job getting the oil out. Methylene chloride used to be the main flush solvent, don't know now. Just don't spin the pump much with no oil in it, the pistons and sleeve sets are teflon coated or some such, and no lubrication is bad for them. Might not remove PAG oil very well, though, it's more water soluble than gasoline soluble. Main thing is to get most of it out. My o-rings looked like someone had taken bites out of them. Some shreddies, too, I suppose where bits were protected by being right up against the metal. Peter
[MBZ] tybee island ac woes
On Jun 10, 2006, at 8:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: June 10, 2006 8:30:26 PM EDT To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tybee Island A/C compressor woes 1982 300TD Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com OK. Good working system until today. On my way down here a week ago, it was occasionally screeching ... i assumed belt was slipping, etc. Today, when i fired the car up on vegetable oil (somehow i doubt if that relates to the ac problem), it screeched, loudly, i stopped to look and smelled the stench of burnt clutch lining. We did our trip You sure this wasn't good old burning belt? The AC clutch is a metal-on-metal affair, there is no friction material. If the compressor proper seized the belt could slip making a stink. could've been belt stink pretty locked down. I can only turn it about 10 degrees back and forth. Standard seized compressor it sounds like to me. Is this the hub? Or just the outer part where the belt goes? i'm trying to turn the most outside part (clutch) most forward part on the car the part that spins when the clutch is energized the fan pulley is REAR of that and turns freely when engine runs So, can ac clutch failure jam things up? Or, did failure of the compressor cause clutch failure in that order. If only the clutch failed, in theory it is separately replaceable and could not have harmed the compressor proper. I assume i have to evacuate and save the R-12 (yes i'm running that), replace compressor, then evacuate and recharge the system?? If the compressor itself seized, your system is probably full of pump shrapnel. Not good. Requires heroic efforts to clean out. that's an interesting point and probably going to be a necessary effort The compressor is a round (delco? r-4??)looking object like one would find on an old american car. It is, though there is some talk about a big X on it indicating that it has an inverted internal oil path for upside-down operation. I saw it replaced by the previous owner maybe 5 years ago. I don't know if he used rebuilt or new. I'll bet the car hasn't been driven 20,000 miles in that time. What's the expected life of such a rebuilt compressor? Generally low. Conventional wisdom here is that only a new one will hold up. Good used is OK, and is $15 at the U-Pull, but is of unknown condition. Sources?? Expected cost, numbers of correct models, etc? Good old Harrison R4. Try Rusty! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] [Bulk] Wheel Paint
If you allow the paint to dry more than 24 hours, it is recommended to use 400 grit sand paper. The sanding will permit a course surface for the next layer to paint to bond too if you apply the next layer of paint before 24 hours, the paint is tacky, permitting a good bond with the next layer.. I prefer applying the next layer when the paint is tacky 12 to under 24 hours which is a chemical bond between layer Source: Paint auto suppliers: Bill 1981 300 TD John Peterson wrote: Those are good prices- I did all 4 wheels this year, prep is key as with any paint job. Light coats of the paint, sanding slightly with 400 between. Then the lacquer, 4 coats and sand before the last one. I think they turned out perfect- hard pressed to see the difference from factory. Durability is unknown at this point, they have lasted 6 mo so far. John Peterson 1991 300D 2.5 79k Wurth Wheels Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote: John Peterson posted a while ago about his experience with 124 wheel paint. Can't remember the source. Dwight Giles, Jr 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles Wickford, RI Bissell Cove Quahog Auto Salvage Co. Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent silver paint for alloy wheels? I'll need the clear also - Griots has a Wurth equiv individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of silver and 2 of clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to stabilize the surface. The individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each. In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many light coats. Marshall ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? Need some guidance on how?
I have a 1987 300D turbo that I want to install a towing hitch to pull my boat trailer (light 14' inflatable w/30 HP outboard). I am planning to use my car for day fishing trips, and only use my truck for overnight/ extended trips as it only gets around 10 miles per gallon. I first looked underneath the rear of the car, and could not see any secure way to install a hitch. I then went to the local U-Haul center, and they could not find a correct match on there computer for a 1987 300D turbo (computer had it listed as a 2 door), and did not give a listing for a hitch for the car. I'm sure someone has found a way to install a hitch on their model 124 car that works. Your help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks... Richard From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Jun 11 02:11:34 2006 Received: from wx-out-0102.google.com ([66.249.82.207]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FpFQL-0004mr-VE for Mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sun, 11 Jun 2006 02:11:34 + Received: by wx-out-0102.google.com with SMTP id r21so705960wxc for Mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sat, 10 Jun 2006 19:11:28 -0700 (PDT) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s¾ta; d=gmail.com; h=received:message-id:date:from:to:subject:in-reply-to:mime-version:content-type:content-transfer-encoding:content-disposition:references; b=AWAuAM/HJHEZynk/n6tAUo8EF+YAv60vx6/JRVQ0v7b0/QGwUll5/API+QXgcLPCKTRX/yLeDumBnBtQZdwE6XOCch/1zACAcyNgRDGgBGEYZmaTfRwYfBZWwtVrqq0SJpAaTVt3jGO2xkNMJHmlOFaMVKht0SVOH7D8jsXTgrYReceived: by 10.70.19.6 with SMTP id 6mr1671843wxs; Sat, 10 Jun 2006 19:11:28 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.70.122.9 with HTTP; Sat, 10 Jun 2006 19:11:28 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 21:11:28 -0500 From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] Electronic AC servo on sale. X-BeenThere: Mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:Mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 02:11:34 - What happened to the list member's engineering school project to make one of these using readily available parts? Perhaps Rusty could sell the kits? On 6/10/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: is that the kit to replace the servo? If so, Rusty is getting beat. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: [Fwd: Wheel Paint]
I purchased the paint, qt cans, in Canada while on a trip. The MB dealer in Quebec City directed me to a local supplier which they used called AutoCraft which is not like it is here in the US...AutoCraft has the exact color formula for M*B* of all vintage. BASF is the manufacture used world wide like stated on their web page: http://www.basf-coatings.de/en_UK/products/ecr_r-m.xml I research PPG and THINK it is a low quality paint compared to the American company French name DuPont and BASF under the R-M product line The best paint, told to me by a auto body shop and unemployed auto painter, is Spies Hecker a Germany company. A local supplier quoted me $800.00 of paint from sealer to clear coat to paint my 81 wagon. The supplier said, It will be better to have a local shop paint it in the Boston area A low cost spray gun used by artist to make T-shirts designs. Price is around $150.00. Be sure the paint can be used in these type of guns since they vary from type to type. The next one is the well known spray can which has a poor nozzle and the pressure drops the more you apply paint making it hard to spray a light coat. There is a new type of rechargeable spray cans which in theory look good to keep the pressure at a reasonable and allow range by recharging to have a uniform coat of paint... Price is $25.00. Bill 1981 300 TD LarryT wrote: Bill wrote:I used a professional spray gun.. Thanks for the info on painting - since you use a gun air pressure I assume you used paint from a quart can or similar. Where/what kind of paint did you use? My paint guy can probably provide a product similar to Wurth but I suspect there might be additives in the paint making it more appropriate for use on wheels. I always buy the paint I use to paint my cars from a PPG dealer and have gotten comfortable using the Omni AU product line. I wonder if PPG would carry a color that's suitable? I'll call my paint guy later -- Thanks again for all the help -- Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: Bill Gallagher [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:58 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] [Bulk] Re: [Fwd: Wheel Paint] I sand blasted my wheels, cleaned them with acetone, several light coats of epoxy primer, several light coasts of base coat, and about 10 light layers of clear coat. I used a professional spray gun..Wheels look better than new cuz no clear coat in that era. suggest used light sprays of each application with a spray can...those new spray can which can be recharged seem to look good in theory. Keep in mind the more moisture in the air, fish eyes will appear on the painted surface.. Bill 1981 300 TD Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote: John Peterson posted a while ago about his experience with 124 wheel paint. Can't remember the source. Dwight Giles, Jr 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles Wickford, RI Bissell Cove Quahog Auto Salvage Co. Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent silver paint for alloy wheels? I'll need the clear also - Griots has a Wurth equiv individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of silver and 2 of clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to stabilize the surface. The individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each. In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many light coats. Marshall ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? Need some guidance on how?
RICHARD FIne wrote: I have a 1987 300D turbo that I want to install a towing hitch to pull my boat trailer (light 14' inflatable w/30 HP outboard). I am planning to use my car for day fishing trips, and only use my truck for overnight/ extended trips as it only gets around 10 miles per gallon. I first looked underneath the rear of the car, and could not see any secure way to install a hitch. I then went to the local U-Haul center, and they could not find a correct match on there computer for a 1987 300D turbo (computer had it listed as a 2 door), and did not give a listing for a hitch for the car. I'm sure someone has found a way to install a hitch on their model 124 car that works. Your help would be greatly appreciated, Here's one link - I know NOTHING about them: http://www.hitch-web.com/vhitch.asp?CLID=1DRID=6MD=300EC=MK=Mercedes-BenzY=1987MDID=90YID=69CID=3MKID=38OID=8SMID=1BBID=125BPID=6VID=6789 Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
[MBZ] Speaking of trailers --
I saw an SEC pulling a flat trailer going the other way on I-44 this morning - looked 'wrong'. Coupes and trailers don't look right together. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Electronic AC servo on sale.
yea, who was that? OK Don wrote: What happened to the list member's engineering school project to make one of these using readily available parts? Perhaps Rusty could sell the kits? On 6/10/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: is that the kit to replace the servo? If so, Rusty is getting beat.
Re: [MBZ] Speaking of trailers --
A while back I saw a 123 pulling a full sized fishing/ski boat. It was really dragging ass in the back OK Don wrote: I saw an SEC pulling a flat trailer going the other way on I-44 this morning - looked 'wrong'. Coupes and trailers don't look right together.
[MBZ] 87 300D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300d-1987-MERCEDES-300D-TURBO-DIESEL-AUTOMATIC_W0QQitemZ4649407369QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
[MBZ] its nice, but something is fishy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-D-1968-EURO-DIESEL-MBZ-220D-FRESH-240D-MOTOR-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4649377275QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Re: [MBZ] its nice, but something is fishy
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-D-1968-EURO-DIESEL-MBZ-220D-FRESH-240D-MOTOR-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4649377275QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Doesn't have AC! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Electronic AC servo on sale.
Looked it up - John Robbins. On 6/10/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: yea, who was that? OK Don wrote: What happened to the list member's engineering school project to make one of these using readily available parts? Perhaps Rusty could sell the kits? -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? Need some guidance on how?
I purchased a DaLan hitch for my '87 300TD from these folks a while back: http://hitches4less.com/mercedes-benz-300-trailer-hitch.html It was moderately simple to install, but did require some slight adjustments and drilling to get it to fit correctly. Here are some pics of the hitch: http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/TD%20Hitch/ Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k) '84 300D (213k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
Re: [MBZ] its nice, but something is fishy
On Sat, 10 Jun 2006 23:36:55 -0400 Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-D-1968-EURO-DIESEL-MBZ-220D-FRESH-240D-MOTOR-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4649377275QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Doesn't have AC! Yup. The picture that shows the console with the speaker on the side has the speaker right where the air intake for the A/C would be. In addition, the high mounted York compressor is missing from the right side of the engine. The paint is not the original color, though the car apparently did come in some shade of red from the factory. The re-paint was a fairly thorough job, though, with the door frames and hub caps being repainted. The roof has some wierd marks (scratches?) and the area above the trunk lock looks rather ratty. The driver's door check anchor looks rusty. The Goodyear tires have had tire black applied. The right taillight is broken. What else looks fishy? Craig
Re: [MBZ] its nice, but something is fishy
It has a marker light mounting frame on the right rear but no lamp and nothing on the left rear. There's what looks like some decent rot in the photo of the driver's front wheel well. It just doesn't add up.where's Columbo when you need him? Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? ...
Haven't yet gotten around to installing it but I scored a factory Oris hitch off german ebay a while back. Installs like Casey's hitch but looks to me to be considerably more substantial, rated to tow 1900kg. Also has a neat toollessly detachable ball head that when removed leaves no receiver hanging below the bumper. I need to get some eyes welded on for safety chains as those apparently aren't required in the fatherland and probably get the crossbar powder coated. These things turn up fairly regularly not too expensively, but shipping might be prohibitive; I was fortunate to have been able to get it drop shipped to Berlin whence it hitched a ride in a friend's container to the left coast. joe
Re: [MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? ...
Joe, Measure the ball size - it might be different from US standards. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Knight Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 8:06 AM To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? ... Haven't yet gotten around to installing it but I scored a factory Oris hitch off german ebay a while back. Installs like Casey's hitch but looks to me to be considerably more substantial, rated to tow 1900kg. Also has a neat toollessly detachable ball head that when removed leaves no receiver hanging below the bumper. I need to get some eyes welded on for safety chains as those apparently aren't required in the fatherland and probably get the crossbar powder coated. These things turn up fairly regularly not too expensively, but shipping might be prohibitive; I was fortunate to have been able to get it drop shipped to Berlin whence it hitched a ride in a friend's container to the left coast. joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 190D update
On Jun 10, 2006, at 11:07 AM, Curt Raymond wrote: Oh my wife had new tires put on it and had them nitrogen inflated, I can tell you I definately notice absolutely no difference. Of course the new tires are nice as they don't hydroplane so bad and don't squirm all over the road like the bad old ones do -Curt What tires did you put on? I recently put a set of Falken ZE 512 Ziex H-rated on, finally Cathy's 190D Euro. I wanted good rain tires with a good dry bite for her. The car's getting parked for the Winter, so no concern for ice/snow. I have about 2,500mi on them, sadly most in the rain. They are great in the pouring rain on the Interstates and side roads. Dry traction is fantastic. I had 1 bad tie-rod end. So I replaced both tie-rod assys and re- bushed the idler arm. I measured the overall length of both tie-rod assys, then made some adjustments by eye and by feel before bringing to my friends alignment shop. If I didn't see it with my own eyes, I wouldn't have believed that the toe was right on, the RF Camber was off by only 1/4 of a degree on the - side(not enough to be concerned with) and the rear was perfect. The car tracks fine and handles like it's on rails. I paid $207.36 for the tires from www.tiresavings.com and $60.00 for mount and balance at a local service station. I couldn't be happier with the whole deal. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] OkieQ, 2 weeks away
Does anyone on the list have an R12 Freon recovery system they could bring to OkieQ ? Thanks, Dan -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 6:37 PM To: Banned List; Mercedes Mailing List; Biodiesel Discussion List; SL Discussion List; Mercedes-Benz Veterans List; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; J. Mark Carlson; Dan Holden Subject: OkieQ, 2 weeks away OK folks, the okieq is 2 weeks away now. If you have not RSVP'd yet now is the time. If you need hotel info let me know so you can get your reservations in. The main event will be an afternoon affair with exact time to be announced. Probably will start around 2 probably. For those folks who want to go to the gum museum etc, which is always a favorite, be here early. For those interested contact me offlist and i will get things set up. If anybody is in town friday night we will get together for some bbq or something. Anyway, here is the list of attendees to date. If your name is not on the list and you plan to come, let me know ASAP. Kaleb Kaleb Striplin Regina Striplin Lt Don John Robbins John Gregg Rick Knoble Mark Carlson Mitch Marmell Marshall Booth(maybe) B2(maybe) Luther Gulseth Dan Holden (Dr. Biodiesel) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] its nice, but something is fishy
I thought I saw some rust in one of the wheel wells, which indicated there is ALOT of rust hiding under that paint. Craig McCluskey wrote: On Sat, 10 Jun 2006 23:36:55 -0400 Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-D-1968-EURO-DIESEL-MBZ-220D-FRESH-240D-MOTOR-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4649377275QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Doesn't have AC! Yup. The picture that shows the console with the speaker on the side has the speaker right where the air intake for the A/C would be. In addition, the high mounted York compressor is missing from the right side of the engine. The paint is not the original color, though the car apparently did come in some shade of red from the factory. The re-paint was a fairly thorough job, though, with the door frames and hub caps being repainted. The roof has some wierd marks (scratches?) and the area above the trunk lock looks rather ratty. The driver's door check anchor looks rusty. The Goodyear tires have had tire black applied. The right taillight is broken. What else looks fishy? Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
I'm ready to pull the engine on my 124. Last thing I need to so is disconnect is the drive shaft. With the transmission mount removed and the rear supported by a jack, it looks like I need to disconnect the flex disk. But it looks like every bolt and bushing in that thing has a certain alignment and I remember talk about orientation and balance of the drive shaft. The shop manual is pretty vague about this. What do I need to know? Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
I would mark the flanges and flex disk so they go back in the original places, and remember which way the bolts go (off the top of my head I don't remember if they are bolt head at the flange side or the other way 'round). All the bolts are identical, but keep each bolt, washer, and nut together. You can probably just remove the bolts for the tranny flange and leave the flex disk on the driveshaft. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
The most critical alignment is the center U-jointand you won't be disassembling that part. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ned kleinhenz Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 11:10 AM To: Mercedes List Subject: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts I'm ready to pull the engine on my 124. Last thing I need to so is disconnect is the drive shaft. With the transmission mount removed and the rear supported by a jack, it looks like I need to disconnect the flex disk. But it looks like every bolt and bushing in that thing has a certain alignment and I remember talk about orientation and balance of the drive shaft. The shop manual is pretty vague about this. What do I need to know? Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
DON'T mess with the center u-joint! I did, and it's not been right since. It is straked in place with a special jig, and no one I've found around here can balance the shaft if you replace it! There is an outfit in California that does, but they want $600 or so Peter
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
The best bet is to probably just swap in a whole good used driveshaft rather than mess with the U-joint. I have to replace the center support on my wagon and I have not figured it out yet. Looks like I need a puller but not sure if I want to mess with it. Thinking about just parting out the wagon. Just put a new engine in it, rear suspension is almost new, many new front end parts. But its ugly, has dents, and a little rust. Not sure what it would sell for on ebay since its an ugly wagon. Seems the wagons are going thru the roof right now. Peter Frederick wrote: DON'T mess with the center u-joint! I did, and it's not been right since. It is straked in place with a special jig, and no one I've found around here can balance the shaft if you replace it! There is an outfit in California that does, but they want $600 or so Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?
on 6/10/06 2:04 PM, Gary Hurst at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: why would i be running 205/65 on my 15 bundts if it weren't what to do? swine Meds, Gary, meds. LOL Mac
[MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16
Ralph W. wrote: I need a new set of summer tires for my '90 W124. I think the Bridgestone Turanza's are fantastic. They wear well and provide great traction. I had them on my 90 124 when I got it. I replaced them with cheaper tires. I had forgotten how nice the bridgestones are until I bough my 300SEL. The previous owner put them on 5,000 miles before I bought it. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 127K 1992 Olds 98 121K $1500
[MBZ] wheels for 126/ 8 hole wheels for sale
Jim F. wrote: Check out my wheels on EBAY. They are in Phoenix and I assume you are in Oklahoma. 16 MERCEDES WHEELS, TIRES, AND LUG BOLTS. Item number: 8073272449 Probably not cost effective to ship as the set weighs over 200 pounds. Actually Jim I am in Kansas. I would love to have these wheels and tires, but I don't know if they would fit on my car. I have 15 inch wheels on now. I don't know what the offset is on my wheels now. I see no one is bidding. How much would you sell them for. I have no doubt with the wheels and tires they are worth $350. If they fit, I would really like to see if we can make a deal. Then I have to figure out what to do with the stock wheels and bridgestones I have on it now. Donald H. Snook McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A. 300 West Douglas P.O. Box 207 Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207 Tel. (316) 263-5851 This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you have received this message in error, please delete it and notify me.
Re: [MBZ] 87 300D
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] 87 300D http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300d-1987-MERCED ES-300D-TURBO-DIESEL-AUTOMATIC_W0QQitemZ4649407369QQihZ002QQcategoryZ633 0QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I really hate the color of this car. Battleship gray. Yuck. Donald H. Snook McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A. 300 West Douglas P.O. Box 207 Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207 Tel. (316) 263-5851 This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you have received this message in error, please delete it and notify me.
Re: [MBZ] What tire size are people running with 15-inch rims, on the older cars?
i've been told the prozac dosage needs to be rasied my first day of glucophage today. i've been stalling for week. now my tummy hurts :( On 6/11/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: on 6/10/06 2:04 PM, Gary Hurst at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: why would i be running 205/65 on my 15 bundts if it weren't what to do? swine Meds, Gary, meds. LOL Mac ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 220/240D
,What else looks fishy? You would think that at some time or other someone would have cleaned the five pounds of body shop dust out of the trunk. RLE
[MBZ] So, how much oil do I add? [was Re: DIY AC repair in modern times]
With all this talk about DIY A/C repair, there are a few questions that have not yet been asked. Specifically, how much oil do I put back after having rapidly vented the system (thinking it was already empty because of the accident I had) and a voluminuous cloud of oil came out? Is there such a thing as adding too much oil? If so, what happens? Craig
Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16
What would be the longest lasting tire in the $50 range at Tire Rack if no other characteristics are taken into consideration? I bought Yokohama Avid T-4s on Marshalls recommendation a couple of years ago and they have held up well. I've never had tires that lasted the full length of their gaurantee. Thanks, Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D - Original Message - From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ralph W. wrote: I need a new set of summer tires for my '90 W124. I think the Bridgestone Turanza's are fantastic. They wear well and provide great traction. I had them on my 90 124 when I got it. I replaced them with cheaper tires. I had forgotten how nice the bridgestones are until I bough my 300SEL. The previous owner put them on 5,000 miles before I bought it. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 127K 1992 Olds 98 121K $1500
Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you convert to 134-A can you then go back to R-12 using your 134-A set of gauges? R-134-A doesn't do a very good job of cooling my MBs. I'm currently trying to find a second leak in an '83 240D. The first one was the pressure switch on top of the dryer which is now fixed. I'm using UV dye to look for the leaks, and I've wasted four cans of Freon trying to find it under the hood. Can someone tell me the best way to find it under the dash since that must be where it is? Thanks, Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D -- From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] All the connections are sealed with o-rings, and there are four on the expansion valve. I would guess that is where your leak is, and it may be slow enough that not much oil will blow out with the freon. I replace all the 0-rings with new green ones when changing a system over. Don't forget to check the compressor, too -- the hose junction on the later models tends to leak, as does the front seal and the piping manifold to compressor body on the Nippondenso conpressors. On my TE, the leak at the manifold to body was the high side o-rings, and the oil was on the block side, invisible until I removed the compressor.\ You can go back, but you really need to flush the oil out properly. Most undercooling problems are a result of overcharging -- R134a is lighter than R12, only put in 80 to 85% of the weight -- otherwise you get high suction side pressures and low cooling. - Kaleb Striplin suggested an electronic leak detector. The cheapest one I found, Toolsource.com, was about $175. I'll keep that in mind if cheaper methods don't work. -- From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jim, what is test refrigerant It is what I use to test a system before committing scarce and expensive R12 to it. (None of my cars has sufficiently 'passed' the test to earn my only three cans of R12.) It's a mix of isobutane and propane, and there are commercial formulations of this. Costs about $7 per full* charge DIY. * full as in fully functional, but hydrocarbon blends are usually quite undercharged when compared to an R12 installation. This is to control the pressures, since propane (R290) has an R22-like pressure curve. This makes them very sensitive to minor leakage, with the usual result being a need for an annual charge. Big deal, so I have to spend $7/year to keep AC working in each car! According to the EPA (and just how does this policy result in a protected environment?) it is not legal to use this refrigerant or anything like it in the US. The political machinations behind this policy are both frightening and disgusting, I'll leave it to you to surf for it on the web. is there a FAQ ? if you have been over and over this is it in the archives ? Only the two links I gave before: http://cathey.dogear.com/efair.html http://cathey.dogear.com/cwair.html - Thanks to Peter, Kaleb, and Jim for the information and suggestions. Bought a package of green O rings in various sizes for A/Cs yesterday, so I'll replace all you suggest while it's apart, as well as install a new dryer. Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
Doing the center U-joint bearing and carrier is a piece of cake. I could do one in less than 1 hour and even have the puller to do it. Just over $11 at Autozone. Should I bring the tools to OkieQ and do a demonstration? Speakin of 123 driveshafts..does a 240 d/s match up with a 300D turbo? Luther On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 11:59:17 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The best bet is to probably just swap in a whole good used driveshaft rather than mess with the U-joint. I have to replace the center support on my wagon and I have not figured it out yet. Looks like I need a puller but not sure if I want to mess with it. Thinking about just parting out the wagon. Just put a new engine in it, rear suspension is almost new, many new front end parts. But its ugly, has dents, and a little rust. Not sure what it would sell for on ebay since its an ugly wagon. Seems the wagons are going thru the roof right now. Peter Frederick wrote: DON'T mess with the center u-joint! I did, and it's not been right since. It is straked in place with a special jig, and no one I've found around here can balance the shaft if you replace it! There is an outfit in California that does, but they want $600 or so Peter -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (236 kmi) '82 300CD (160 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 17:05:24 -0500 Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Speakin of 123 driveshafts..does a 240 d/s match up with a 300D turbo? Short answer: NO! Long answer: The fifth cylinder that was added to a 616.9xx to make it into a 617.9xx was added to the rear of the engine, so the transmission is farther back in the car and the driveshaft has to be shorter. That said, I believe that the change in length was taken up entirely in the front section, so the rear section should be the same. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
Front section for the turbo is shorter. Peter
Re: [MBZ] 220/240D
on 6/11/06 4:37 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ,What else looks fishy? You would think that at some time or other someone would have cleaned the five pounds of body shop dust out of the trunk. Sure it isn't grit from, err, enthusiastic sandblasting of rust? Cheap shops are notorious for not vacuuming it up afterwards. Mac
Re: [MBZ] Summer tire recommendation W124 16
I happen to be looking myself right now, Gerry, and the Yoko Avid T4s seem to be so far out in front, on the TR survey results, nothing else makes much sense. And they're in the low end of the price range (for 'name' tires), to boot. Mac on 6/11/06 3:24 PM, archer at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What would be the longest lasting tire in the $50 range at Tire Rack if no other characteristics are taken into consideration? I bought Yokohama Avid T-4s on Marshalls recommendation a couple of years ago and they have held up well. I've never had tires that lasted the full length of their gaurantee. Thanks, Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D - Original Message - From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ralph W. wrote: I need a new set of summer tires for my '90 W124. I think the Bridgestone Turanza's are fantastic. They wear well and provide great traction. I had them on my 90 124 when I got it. I replaced them with cheaper tires. I had forgotten how nice the bridgestones are until I bough my 300SEL. The previous owner put them on 5,000 miles before I bought it. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 127K 1992 Olds 98 121K $1500 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Truth about drive shafts
Bingo, the brace for the carrier bearing is at the same location on the back half of the d/s. The u-joint is on the front section and goes with the engine/tranny combo. On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 17:32:28 -0500, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 17:05:24 -0500 Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Speakin of 123 driveshafts..does a 240 d/s match up with a 300D turbo? Short answer: NO! Long answer: The fifth cylinder that was added to a 616.9xx to make it into a 617.9xx was added to the rear of the engine, so the transmission is farther back in the car and the driveshaft has to be shorter. That said, I believe that the change in length was taken up entirely in the front section, so the rear section should be the same. Craig -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (236 kmi) '82 300CD (160 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] its nice, but something is fishy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-D-1968-EURO-DIESEL-MBZ-220D-FRESH-240D-MOTOR-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4649377275QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem He makes a big deal of it being a euro model, but the rad support says 491, making it a US model. Tom
