Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Michael Canfield
Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Dieselhead

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust 
eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart.  going 
back together, most of the fits were like original so I could run the 
nuts on by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.


Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I'm cleaning up some rust around the trim clip holes on front fender of my 
240D. One of them perforated and I had to weld the area closed. Naval jelly and 
POR-15 are my friends here. I'm doing what I can before the salt bath begins.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:25 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted tight, 
with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust eater ate the 
rust and I was able to get everything apart.  going back together, most of the 
fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Jim Cathey

Well, there's always English undercoating.

They salt here too, now, the b@$#@ds.  The claim is that
the EPA made them do it.  They used to use sand, but then
there was too much particulate matter in the air (dust)
in the Spring.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Dieselhead
from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for 
Mopar P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be 
able to look up the new one.  There is a photo of it here:


http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf



Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The 
rust eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. 
going back together, most of the fits were like original so I could 
run the nuts on by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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[MBZ] ----1976 Mercedes 300D (Milford Connecticut) $990

2011-11-23 Thread Michael Canfield
Auto trans, diesel engine. Good tires and glass. Runs and drives. Needs
TLC. $990.00 FIRM. Any questions call Gary at 203-556-1916

http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/2716524073.html

via @craigsnotifica #AndroidApp
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Gerry Archer

Autozone has Rust Eater which probably isn't as good as Mopar
but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
Gerry

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar 
P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look 
up the new one.  There is a photo of it here:


http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf



Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust 
eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back 
together, most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on 
by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on 
cars

since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters. 
The

bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Version: 10.0.1411 / Virus Database: 2092/4034 - Release Date: 11/23/11




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[MBZ] HP Calculators (was Re: editers)

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
There is definitely an iPod/Pad app for the 12C financial calculator.
And I recall reading recently that HP had reissued several of the older
models, but not using the original electronics... the new one actually
emulate the original processors in a more modern CPU.  There have been
some complaints that the buttons and cases seemed a lower quality than
the originals though.


Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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[MBZ] Save 50% or More on Diagnostic Scan Tools at Amazon

2011-11-23 Thread Craig
They have a sale on today at
http://www.amazon.com/Deals-Automotive/b/ref=amb_link_358927322_3?ie=UTF8node=392446011pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DERpf_rd_s=hero-quick-promopf_rd_r=0552266HJK8KEVFSJ9CGpf_rd_t=201pf_rd_p=1332650502pf_rd_i=B004HHPW8C

Scroll down to the third category in the middle.


Craig

--
Present:'95 E320Sebastian  108 kmi
'94 E420Oskar  123 kmi
'82 240D/3.0Bluebell   265 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'64 190Dc   Emma
'72 220D/8  Herman 186 kmi

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[MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
A couple of odd behaviors have been noticed,

a) The reserve indicator on the fuel gauge glows dimly at all times.

b) When the door is open, stepping on the brakes cause the warning
   buzzer to sound.  Activating the turn signals causes the buzzer to
   sound in time with the signal flashing.  Neither happens when the
   door is closed.

c) Opening the front doors does not light the front interior light,
   though the light works using its switch.

d) Dash illumination works, but trying to adjust the brightness causes
   it to go dark.  Fiddling with the brightness control I can get it to
   light up again.

I'm thinking a) and b) are signs of bad grounds.  Maybe c) as well.  d)
sounds like dirty rheostat, is this something that can be cleaned e.g.
with DeOxIt?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Michael Canfield
Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike
On Nov 23, 2011 10:31 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Autozone has Rust Eater which probably isn't as good as Mopar
 but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
 on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
 means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
 Gerry

 From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

 from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar
 P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look up
 the new one.  There is a photo of it here:

 http://www.mopar.ca/en/**accessories/**inspectandreplaceexhaustsystem**
 components.phphttp://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

 There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
 http://starparts.chrysler.com/**starlibrary/marketing/**
 chemicals/chemicals.pdfhttp://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf


  Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
 I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted
 tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust eater
 ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back together,
 most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
 It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

 Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to
 even
 drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
 putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
 Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
 local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on
 cars
 since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with
 cheap
 recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.
 The
 bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
 fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Craig
On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:26:55 -0500 Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
wrote:

 A couple of odd behaviors have been noticed,
 
 a) The reserve indicator on the fuel gauge glows dimly at all times.
 
 b) When the door is open, stepping on the brakes cause the warning
buzzer to sound.  Activating the turn signals causes the buzzer to
sound in time with the signal flashing.  Neither happens when the
door is closed.
 
 c) Opening the front doors does not light the front interior light,
though the light works using its switch.
 
 d) Dash illumination works, but trying to adjust the brightness causes
it to go dark.  Fiddling with the brightness control I can get it to
light up again.
 
 I'm thinking a) and b) are signs of bad grounds.  Maybe c) as well.

Yes.


 d) sounds like dirty rheostat, is this something that can be cleaned
 e.g. with DeOxIt?

It's worth a try while you have the instrument cluster out to fix the
grounds. I recall reading that people with W123s typically put a jumper
wire across the rheostat.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Which reminds me I need to get a pump sprayer and coat the underside of my cars 
with oil before it gets too cold...

For rusty fasteners I've been using a Ford product that I found in my garage 
(left by the previous owner) which smells terrible but works a treat. Can't 
recall the name, starts with an R.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 06:28:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
Message-ID:
1322058497.91191.yext-apple-iph...@web113207.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I'm cleaning up some rust around the trim clip holes on front fender of my 
240D. One of them perforated and I had to weld the area closed. Naval jelly and 
POR-15 are my friends here. I'm doing what I can before the salt bath begins.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:25 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell
I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was. I 
don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of the 
car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired but I 
think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body cavities is 
maybe better than it once was.


My wife's 07 Honda Accord appeared to have seam sealer etc that would 
have been applied while it was being built but lacked the solid black 
rubbery undercoating that the local new Honda's had at the time. That is 
why we had it sprayed by one of the local franchise outfits. They also 
drilled holes and sprayed the other stuff in the cavities. We have to 
take it back every 2nd year for touchups but are not charged for the 
inspection and repair.
I had my truck done too but it was not new enough to qualify for the 
long term warranty so I can take it in to be touched up but they will 
make me pay to have the repairs done and will not warranty it against rust.


My truck is an 02 F150 Supercrew. It is just now showing a spot on the 
bottom of the driver's side rocker panel that will need to be dealt 
with. The rest is good so far.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 6:19 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully assembled, the chassis and body are 
dipped in corrosion inhibitors.  Aftermarket undercoating, dealer paint protection, and 
the like is largely a scam, basically adds nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got no 
anticorrosion treatment at the factory, it did a little.  But my parents paid to have an Izuzu 
(Buick Opel) rustproofed in the late '70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than 
any other car they owned.

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  
wrote:

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
rust situation on newer MBs.

http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell
In Manitoba, it is considered too cold during much of the winter for 
salt to help much on the highways. Nevertheless, the City of Winnipeg 
tends to salt intersections and as a result we get a bit of a regular 
salt bath if the weather permits - IE - if it warms up a bit and then 
snows a bit.


If, I make a run to Ontario in the winter (the cottage is on Lake of the 
Woods south of Kenora) then there is almost a line at the border where 
the road turns white. Ontario salts the heck out of the roads. Maybe 
justified as the hills and general terrain make the snow hang about more 
than in Manitoba where it tends to be more open and blow off of the roads.


Randy who does not wish to buy any used cars from Ontario!


On 22/11/2011 10:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern 
IL is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the 
roads

was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/ 



I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt 


(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig





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Re: [MBZ] Save 50% or More on Diagnostic Scan Tools at Amazon

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell

Anyone knowledgeable about these things?

I have one of the basic code readers from a few years ago that has 
served me well.


However, I believe that there are better ones out there that will let 
you run a scan while driving. Mine is only to be used with the engine off.


I guess the next question is whether there is software and an interface 
that would permit one to do it with a laptop computer.


Randy

On 23/11/2011 10:14 AM, Craig wrote:

They have a sale on today at
http://www.amazon.com/Deals-Automotive/b/ref=amb_link_358927322_3?ie=UTF8node=392446011pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DERpf_rd_s=hero-quick-promopf_rd_r=0552266HJK8KEVFSJ9CGpf_rd_t=201pf_rd_p=1332650502pf_rd_i=B004HHPW8C

Scroll down to the third category in the middle.


Craig





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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell

Here we go with the top vs bottom reply again.

In any event, is it not sort of the standard fix now to install some 
led's in place of the bulbs in the instrument panel to brighten it up?

I have yet to do it but that was my ultimate plan.

Randy


On 23/11/2011 10:46 AM, Craig wrote:

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:26:55 -0500 Allan Streibstr...@cs.indiana.edu
wrote:


A couple of odd behaviors have been noticed,

a) The reserve indicator on the fuel gauge glows dimly at all times.

b) When the door is open, stepping on the brakes cause the warning
buzzer to sound.  Activating the turn signals causes the buzzer to
sound in time with the signal flashing.  Neither happens when the
door is closed.

c) Opening the front doors does not light the front interior light,
though the light works using its switch.

d) Dash illumination works, but trying to adjust the brightness causes
it to go dark.  Fiddling with the brightness control I can get it to
light up again.

I'm thinking a) and b) are signs of bad grounds.  Maybe c) as well.

Yes.



d) sounds like dirty rheostat, is this something that can be cleaned
e.g. with DeOxIt?

It's worth a try while you have the instrument cluster out to fix the
grounds. I recall reading that people with W123s typically put a jumper
wire across the rheostat.


Craig





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Re: [MBZ] Save 50% or More on Diagnostic Scan Tools at Amazon

2011-11-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 9:37 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
 I guess the next question is whether there is software and an interface that
 would permit one to do it with a laptop computer.


http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-wireless/dp/B004KL0I9I/

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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Craig
On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:39:05 -0600 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 Here we go with the top vs bottom reply again.
 
 In any event, is it not sort of the standard fix now to install some 
 led's in place of the bulbs in the instrument panel to brighten it up?
 I have yet to do it but that was my ultimate plan.

When I was converting our '82 240D into a 240D/3.0, I lined the bulb
boxes and light guides in the instrument cluster with aluminum foil. With
standard bulbs (the LEDs available then weren't up to the job) the
cluster illimination is good.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Save 50% or More on Diagnostic Scan Tools at Amazon

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell

On 23/11/2011 11:39 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 9:37 AM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:

I guess the next question is whether there is software and an interface that
would permit one to do it with a laptop computer.


http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-wireless/dp/B004KL0I9I/

___



OK, so how does it work? I see a doodad that would plug into the car 
connector.

I assume it stores data while one drives or at least runs the engine.
I assume the CD gets installed on a computer.
How does it then connect to the computer?
I assume that I am seeing the same doodad in all of the images shown.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Save 50% or More on Diagnostic Scan Tools at Amazon

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell

On 23/11/2011 11:39 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 9:37 AM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:

I guess the next question is whether there is software and an interface that
would permit one to do it with a laptop computer.


http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-wireless/dp/B004KL0I9I/

___


Or is that where bluetooth comes in to play?
It delivers the message to the computer via bluetooth somehow?

Randy who has no idea if his laptop has bluetooth capability

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Re: [MBZ] tranny pan bolt torque

2011-11-23 Thread Greg Fiorentino
http://dearblankpleaseblank.com/search.php?dbpb=tranny

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] tranny pan bolt torque

Anyone know the proper torque for the tranny pan bolts?  I know it's fairly
low.  This is for my W116 300SD, the pan is square and has four bolts, one
in each corner.

What about the torque converter plug?

Thanks,

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread WILTON
Ziebart in Sault Ste. Marie, ON, did a '71 Chrysler wagon for me in late 
'71.  'Sold it in sou. Cal. in '78 still like new.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was. I 
don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of the car 
is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired but I think 
that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body cavities is maybe 
better than it once was.


My wife's 07 Honda Accord appeared to have seam sealer etc that would have 
been applied while it was being built but lacked the solid black rubbery 
undercoating that the local new Honda's had at the time. That is why we 
had it sprayed by one of the local franchise outfits. They also drilled 
holes and sprayed the other stuff in the cavities. We have to take it back 
every 2nd year for touchups but are not charged for the inspection and 
repair.
I had my truck done too but it was not new enough to qualify for the long 
term warranty so I can take it in to be touched up but they will make me 
pay to have the repairs done and will not warranty it against rust.


My truck is an 02 F150 Supercrew. It is just now showing a spot on the 
bottom of the driver's side rocker panel that will need to be dealt with. 
The rest is good so far.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 6:19 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully 
assembled, the chassis and body are dipped in corrosion inhibitors. 
Aftermarket undercoating, dealer paint protection, and the like is 
largely a scam, basically adds nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got 
no anticorrosion treatment at the factory, it did a little.  But my 
parents paid to have an Izuzu (Buick Opel) rustproofed in the late 
'70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than any other car they 
owned.


Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, Randy 
Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve 
it.


I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction 
with the rust situation on newer MBs.


http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Dieselhead
I am not disagreeing with that.  The mopar stuff eats rust.  there is 
a difference.  Different tools for different problems.


With the dogde struts, I could turn the nut, but the rust on the 1 
or so of bolt sticking through the nut made it so tough that the bolt 
would break before the nut came off.  Yes, I could have worked the 
nut in and out repeatedly to get through the rust with or without 
penetrating oil.  The acetone/atf would help, but not take off the 
rust.


The Mopar stuff: I sprayed it on, waited maybe 20-30 minutes and was 
able to back the nut off.


If the nut is rust welded to the bolt, then the ATF/acetone is the tool.




Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike
On Nov 23, 2011 10:31 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:


 Autozone has Rust Eater which probably isn't as good as Mopar
 but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
 on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
 means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
 Gerry

 From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com


 from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar
 P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look up
 the new one.  There is a photo of it here:

 http://www.mopar.ca/en/**accessories/**inspectandreplaceexhaustsystem**

components.phphttp://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

 There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
 http://starparts.chrysler.com/**starlibrary/marketing/**

chemicals/chemicals.pdfhttp://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf


  Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?


 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
 I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted
 tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The 
rust eater

 ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back together,
 most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
 It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

 Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to
 even
 drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
 putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
 Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
 local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on
 cars
 since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with
 cheap
 recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.
 The
 bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
 fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread WILTON

And I won't buy one from Florida or farther north than VA.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


In Manitoba, it is considered too cold during much of the winter for salt 
to help much on the highways. Nevertheless, the City of Winnipeg tends to 
salt intersections and as a result we get a bit of a regular salt bath if 
the weather permits - IE - if it warms up a bit and then snows a bit.


If, I make a run to Ontario in the winter (the cottage is on Lake of the 
Woods south of Kenora) then there is almost a line at the border where the 
road turns white. Ontario salts the heck out of the roads. Maybe justified 
as the hills and general terrain make the snow hang about more than in 
Manitoba where it tends to be more open and blow off of the roads.


Randy who does not wish to buy any used cars from Ontario!


On 22/11/2011 10:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern IL 
is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the 
roads

was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig





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Re: [MBZ] tranny pan bolt torque

2011-11-23 Thread Dieselhead

http://dearblankpleaseblank.com/search.php?dbpb=tranny

Greg


many of us don't live in sanfransicko

At least a few of us never want to go there ever again.

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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 11:39 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca 
wrote:

 In any event, is it not sort of the standard fix now to install some
 led's in place of the bulbs in the instrument panel to brighten it up?
 I have yet to do it but that was my ultimate plan.

I tried this on my Vanagon.  The LEDs are very directional they actually
don't do well in this application.

Anyway, the brightness on mine is fine.  I was actually trying to dim
them a bit (I like the dash to be as dim as possible while still
readable), and as soon as I turned the adjuster they blacked out.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 11:27 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca 
wrote:

 I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was.
 I don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of
 the car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired
 but I think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body
 cavities is maybe better than it once was.

The waxy stuff is good.  That's what the VW had from the factory, on a
really hot day it would ooze out around some of the trim pieces.

The trouble with the black tar/ziebart treatment is I think it sealed up
the drains in the doors and other enclosed areas that they sprayed it
into, thereby trapping moisture and actually accelerating rust.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread OK Don
Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
seems to work.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:

 Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

 Mike

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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Curt Raymond
Actually I think the best thing that came out of that whole discussion was 
Jim's post about clipping posts.

I put LEDs in the dash of my '83 240D which was chronically under-bright. It 
helped some but I'm not sure the cost was worth it. That dash pod did have a 
broken light pipe which assuredly wasn't helping anything. My '78 240D doesn't 
have a broken light pipe and does have the rheostat jumpered and while the dash 
lights aren't anything to write home about they're adequate.

Which reminds me that before my '83 meets its fate at the crusher I need to get 
the dash pod and the LED bulbs out... They were expensive, and should have a 
long life so I intend to move them to the other car which will also give me an 
excuse to fix the speedo needle which is 5mph too slow.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:39:05 -0600
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins
Message-ID: 4ecd2fb9.4010...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Here we go with the top vs bottom reply again.

In any event, is it not sort of the standard fix now to install some
led's in place of the bulbs in the instrument panel to brighten it up?
I have yet to do it but that was my ultimate plan.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Fmiser
  Randy Bennell wrote:
 
  In any event, is it not sort of the standard fix now to
  install some led's in place of the bulbs in the instrument
  panel to brighten it up? I have yet to do it but that was my
  ultimate plan.

 Allan Streib wrote:
 
 I tried this on my Vanagon.  The LEDs are very directional
 they actually don't do well in this application.

LEDs are not inherently very directional. However, the package
quite often is a lens to focus the light.  One trick is to
flatten the rounded end of the LED.  This works if it's a T
1-3/4 package _and_ the junction is deep enough that filing of
the top doesn't disturb the internals.  I have done this on a
number of different occasions.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Save 50% or More on Diagnostic Scan Tools at Amazon

2011-11-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:03 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
 On 23/11/2011 11:39 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-wireless/dp/B004KL0I9I/

 It delivers the message to the computer via bluetooth somehow?

 Randy who has no idea if his laptop has bluetooth capability


Yes, you use that interface with a smartphone, PDA, or laptop with
Bluetooth (there are Bluetooth adapters for a computer that doesn't
have it already.)  You need software on the computer or whatever to
talk to the OBDII box: there are various free and not-so-free
possibilities.  OBD2Spy is one popular one:
http://www.elm327-bluetooth.com/obd2spy/

Then you drive around and watch all kinds of realtime data as well as
being able to pull CEL codes!

As usual with these kind of things, rolling your own takes a little
more effort than buying a dedicated scan tool, but it's also a more
flexible and powerful solution.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread WILTON
Wherever I could, I tried to make sure drains were open, poked with clothes 
hanger, etc., after treatment.  Obviously, not sure if I got all of 'em.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 11:27 AM, Randy Bennell 
rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:



I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was.
I don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of
the car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired
but I think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body
cavities is maybe better than it once was.


The waxy stuff is good.  That's what the VW had from the factory, on a
really hot day it would ooze out around some of the trim pieces.

The trouble with the black tar/ziebart treatment is I think it sealed up
the drains in the doors and other enclosed areas that they sprayed it
into, thereby trapping moisture and actually accelerating rust.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] HP Calculators (was Re: editers)

2011-11-23 Thread Walt Zarnoch
The HP 48 series actually emulates much of one of the older processors,
rather interesting when you get under the hood of it!

Walt
On Nov 23, 2011 11:04 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 There is definitely an iPod/Pad app for the 12C financial calculator.
 And I recall reading recently that HP had reissued several of the older
 models, but not using the original electronics... the new one actually
 emulate the original processors in a more modern CPU.  There have been
 some complaints that the buttons and cases seemed a lower quality than
 the originals though.


 Allan
 --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell

On 23/11/2011 1:10 PM, OK Don wrote:

Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
seems to work.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfieldslozuk...@gmail.comwrote:


Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike



I had essentially the same experience with non-synthetic AT fluid. It 
won't stay mixed for long for me either.


Also, remember to be very careful around paint. I assume the acetone 
would remove paint quite well.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread RELNGSON

 TPMS?..
 
Tire pressure monitoring system. Federal law since 2008.

Canada uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel speed differential when a tire 
is low, not very precise. US   models have a sensor in each wheel in unit 
with the valve stem. 2010 and later display pressure per wheel in the speedo 
cluster menu.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Hans Neureiter
Way to eliminate frivioulous law suits.
Make the Idiot consumer pay up front.
Way to go Federalis.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 3:55 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:


  TPMS?..
 
 Tire pressure monitoring system. Federal law since 2008.

 Canada uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel speed differential when a tire
 is low, not very precise. US   models have a sensor in each wheel in unit
 with the valve stem. 2010 and later display pressure per wheel in the
 speedo
 cluster menu.

 RLE

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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Total cost is ~$250 for an aftermarket setup, oem offerings were usually
in the uplevel option packages before they were mandated.

I don't see it as a waste personally, since a properly inflated tire does
wonders for fuel economy, provides a nicer experience, and is on the whole
a good thing from a safety standpoint.

Sure it's an upfront cost, but it's justifiable based on the gains in my
opinion.

Walt, who checks his lug-nuts weekly but seldom remembers the tire
pressure...
On Nov 23, 2011 6:36 PM, Hans Neureiter diese...@gmail.com wrote:

 Way to eliminate frivioulous law suits.
 Make the Idiot consumer pay up front.
 Way to go Federalis.

 On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 3:55 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

 
   TPMS?..
  
  Tire pressure monitoring system. Federal law since 2008.
 
  Canada uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel speed differential when a
 tire
  is low, not very precise. US   models have a sensor in each wheel in unit
  with the valve stem. 2010 and later display pressure per wheel in the
  speedo
  cluster menu.
 
  RLE
 
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 --
 Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
 '82 300SD
 '01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread John Freer
Guess my 2007 S550 must have the only prototype installed then. Push
message, Tire inflation and there it is in the speedo cluster. If
there is a problem, it shows up first thing after starting the car.
John

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 1:55 PM,  relng...@aol.com wrote:

 TPMS?..

 Tire pressure monitoring system. Federal law since 2008.

 Canada uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel speed differential when a tire
 is low, not very precise. US   models have a sensor in each wheel in unit
 with the valve stem. 2010 and later display pressure per wheel in the speedo
 cluster menu.

 RLE

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[MBZ] Trans upgrades

2011-11-23 Thread Michael Canfield
I will be changing the transmission fluid and filter in my 83 300d soon. I
have read about upgraded parts that I should change while in there.  I
believe one is a K1 spring kit, what else is there I should do while in
there to make it last?  It has under 150k miles and is just starting to
flare a bit on the 2 to 3 shift.

Thanks All, Mike
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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Randy Bennell

On 23/11/2011 5:44 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Total cost is ~$250 for an aftermarket setup, oem offerings were usually
in the uplevel option packages before they were mandated.

I don't see it as a waste personally, since a properly inflated tire does
wonders for fuel economy, provides a nicer experience, and is on the whole
a good thing from a safety standpoint.

Sure it's an upfront cost, but it's justifiable based on the gains in my
opinion.

Walt, who checks his lug-nuts weekly but seldom remembers the tire
pressure...
On Nov 23, 2011 6:36 PM, Hans Neureiterdiese...@gmail.com  wrote:




Lovely when it works but I have talked to a number of folks who found it 
caused nothing but trouble. (note - not MB vehicles that I can recall)


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Michael Canfield
 Lovely when it works but I have talked to a number of folks who found it
caused nothing but trouble. (note - not MB vehicles that I can recall)

 Randy



Around here they get corroded to the rim and are damaged very often when
tires are being installed.  Another added expense to plan for when buying
new tires.

I will stick with using my $15 guage every week or so.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread John Freer
One of our Canadian snowbird  friends has a Camry and that system is 
continually giving him false readings and the Toyota dealer here in the states 
always turns him away as they don't have the Canadian procedures.

John

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 23, 2011, at 4:04 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 23/11/2011 5:44 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
 Total cost is ~$250 for an aftermarket setup, oem offerings were usually
 in the uplevel option packages before they were mandated.
 
 I don't see it as a waste personally, since a properly inflated tire does
 wonders for fuel economy, provides a nicer experience, and is on the whole
 a good thing from a safety standpoint.
 
 Sure it's an upfront cost, but it's justifiable based on the gains in my
 opinion.
 
 Walt, who checks his lug-nuts weekly but seldom remembers the tire
 pressure...
 On Nov 23, 2011 6:36 PM, Hans Neureiterdiese...@gmail.com  wrote:
 
 
 
 Lovely when it works but I have talked to a number of folks who found it 
 caused nothing but trouble. (note - not MB vehicles that I can recall)
 
 Randy
 
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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Dieselhead



Anyway, the brightness on mine is fine.  I was actually trying to dim
them a bit (I like the dash to be as dim as possible while still
readable), and as soon as I turned the adjuster they blacked out.

Allan


Q can get you a new rheostat if you really have a need to dim.  I 
don't know if a 116 is that much different form a 123.  There is so 
much light pollution, that generally the 123 cluster is too dim, not 
too bright.  So I just solder a jumper to bypass the flakey rheostat.


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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Dieselhead

  TPMS?..



Tire pressure monitoring system. Federal law since 2008.

RLE



You mean a tire pressure gauge?  A kid with a pencil type tire gauge 
always works.


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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Curt Raymond
A complete waste of time brought along for ninnys who can't be bothered to just 
check the dammed tire pressure.
Any mileage gains they make by having tires aired up is lost by the added 
weight of the system.


-Curt

Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:55:30 -0500 (EST)
From: relng...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] TPMS
Message-ID: 4ce10.5adcb5ca.3bfec...@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


 TPMS?..

Tire pressure monitoring system. Federal law since 2008.

Canada uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel speed differential when a tire
is low, not very precise. US   models have a sensor in each wheel in unit
with the valve stem. 2010 and later display pressure per wheel in the speedo
cluster menu.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Jim Cathey

a) The reserve indicator on the fuel gauge glows dimly at all times.
b) door open, brakes cause warning buzzer to sound...


Bad ground.


c) Opening the front doors does not light the front interior light,
   though the light works using its switch.


Might be ground, could be bad door switches.  There's a diode
in the warning module that can be blown, if one door works the
lights and the other does not.  I think the 116 has the system
that the passenger door will not light the driver's side light.
(That's the diode at work.)


d) Dash illumination works [intermittently]


The rheostat gets deformed, and very dirty.  Not sure deoxit will
be of use there, often there's a mechanical problem with the
coiled resistance wire in its porcelain track.  New or good used
is your best bet there.  Most find 123 lighting too dim anyway,
but I don't know about 116.  I cleaned my 123 cluster, and lined
the light chamber and the light pipes with aluminum foil, now it
gets adequately bright.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca writes:

 Lovely when it works but I have talked to a number of folks who found
 it caused nothing but trouble. (note - not MB vehicles that I can
 recall)

Same as ABS, then.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com writes:

 A complete waste of time brought along for ninnys who can't be
 bothered to just check the dammed tire pressure.

Back when we had full-service gas stations they would check your tire
pressure, oil, clean your windows, etc. while you sat in comfort in your
car.  Surprised they didn't just legislate mandatory full-service, could
have claimed they created some jobs...

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Trans upgrades

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com writes:

 I will be changing the transmission fluid and filter in my 83 300d soon. I
 have read about upgraded parts that I should change while in there.  I
 believe one is a K1 spring kit, what else is there I should do while in
 there to make it last?  It has under 150k miles and is just starting to
 flare a bit on the 2 to 3 shift.

The spring kit is easy enough, though in my 300D I can't say it really
made a noticeable difference.  I did it when my B2 piston broke and I
had things opened up.

M1 ATF is good stuff though.  Worth the $$ in my opinion.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net writes:

 Most find 123 lighting too dim anyway, but I don't know about 116.

The dash lights on my 300SD are significantly brighter than on my 300D.
Maybe a PO installed overwattage bulbs??

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Allan Streib
Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net writes:

 I think the 116 has the system that the passenger door will not light
 the driver's side light.

Mine just has one front light, in the center by the mirror.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread OK Don
Service is mandated in NJ , but it sure isn't Full !

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 8:42 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com writes:

  A complete waste of time brought along for ninnys who can't be
  bothered to just check the dammed tire pressure.

 Back when we had full-service gas stations they would check your tire
 pressure, oil, clean your windows, etc. while you sat in comfort in your
 car.  Surprised they didn't just legislate mandatory full-service, could
 have claimed they created some jobs...

 Allan
 --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Trans upgrades

2011-11-23 Thread Dave Walton
I place several neodymium magnets in the pan and by the filter intake to 
capture any tiny steel bits floating around. They will be coated with black goo 
next time you change the filter. Put a few on the power steering filter while 
you are at it. They stay in place just fine.

-Dave Walton

On Nov 23, 2011, at 7:03 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

 I will be changing the transmission fluid and filter in my 83 300d soon. I
 have read about upgraded parts that I should change while in there.  I
 believe one is a K1 spring kit, what else is there I should do while in
 there to make it last?  It has under 150k miles and is just starting to
 flare a bit on the 2 to 3 shift.
 
 Thanks All, Mike
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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread Craig
On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 20:48:33 -0600 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Service is mandated in NJ , but it sure isn't Full !

It's also mandated in Oregon; it also isn't full.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

2011-11-23 Thread hursley

It is gas and go; never expect the attendant to open the hood to check oil nor 
wash your windshield. Else, you upset the Indian folks and can barely 
understand their English.  If they spilled a few drops of fuel, it is OK.  But 
if you touch the pump, they screamed at you in their native language very very 
loud.  That's full service in NJ.
 
k.S.

On 11/23/11, OK Donokd...@gmail.com wrote:

Service is mandated in NJ , but it sure isn't Full !

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 8:42 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com writes:

  A complete waste of time brought along for ninnys who can't be
  bothered to just check the dammed tire pressure.

 Back when we had full-service gas stations they would check your tire
 pressure, oil, clean your windows, etc. while you sat in comfort in your
 car. Surprised they didn't just legislate mandatory full-service, could
 have claimed they created some jobs...

 Allan
 --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

2011-11-23 Thread Gerry Archer
Might be interesting to add a dab of liquid soap to the mixture. Liquid
soap (sodium lauryl sulphate) is an emulsifier which might keep the oil in 
suspension. 
 
http://pharmacy.wilkes.edu/kibbeweb/lab6.html 

.or Tween 80 (not cheap)

http://www.bio-world.com/productinfo/4_847_64_486/125960/Tween-Polysorbate.html?gclid=CNenibOqzqwCFQ1X7AodLE3uqw
 

Gerry

From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
 Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
 M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
 That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
 seems to work.
 
 On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] W116 electrical gremlins

2011-11-23 Thread Jim Cathey

The dash lights on my 300SD are significantly brighter than on my 300D.
Maybe a PO installed overwattage bulbs??


IIRC the 116 and 107 share a dash pod.  The lighting is direct
in them, whereas in the 123 there are plastic light pipes from
bulbs in the back.  If you screw up and put in overwattage bulbs
on a 123 you will melt the light pipe ends, and the lighting
will go _down_!  Either change to some kind of ultra-bright
LED's to fill the pipes, or line things with shiny aluminum
foil.  (The latter is fairly easy, and cheap, and doesn't give
a blue cast to the dash lighting.)

-- Jim



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