Re: [MBZ] [Daveslist] 103 idles rough, hard to start when hot
Just read a response from Marshall in the R/E archive. Apparently a haywire voltage regulator can trip the ovp relay causing such problems if output gets much above 15V. The original query didn't cite temp as a trigger though. -j On Sun, Dec 7, 2008 at 12:03 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote: On this new 300E i just picked up, workign out the little bugs. It starts up and runs great when cold. AFter it starts warming up the idle starts to get a little rough, and finally gets to where it will sometimes die. Afterwards it can be hard to start, or start up somewhat easier. Sometimes it will sit there and idle and try to die, then recover and run for a little while longer etc. Just as quick things I swapped out the coil and the ignition module, didnt make a difference. So, seems like its something in the fuel injection. I also noticed that it seems to have that smell like the cat is getting too hot. I noticed this once before in the 380SE that I dropped the 5.0 euro in. Its cat would glow red hot I think because it was not getting enough fuel, running too lean because the tank screen or filter was plugged up IIRC. Wonder if this one is running too lean when it warms up? Doesnt seem to smoke but does have a funny smell like its either running too rich or too lean. Anybody got any ideas? -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ Daveslist mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/daveslist_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
Could be a needle stuck in its nozzle body bore. I've seen that so bad that I'm convinced that no amount of Purge could remedy it. Makes quite the racket but just requires nozzle replacement. -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Bose
Just hooked up the lowest of low end Bose, the CineMate speaker system, to the new tv my brother I got for Mom for xmas. She thinks she's died gone to heaven. Best is the really quite intuitive universal remote that came with it fixed the stupid comcrap dvr that wouldn't pause, rewind, fast forward or anything else during recorded playback using its own remote. She's down to as many as 2 remotes now only when she wants to watch a dvd and that many only because Oppo isn't exactly a household name - at least not yet. Maybe life is good after all.. -j ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W108 hydropneumatic levelling device
Been a while now but Dan Penoff used to have a '62 300SE, a fintail with hydropneumatics. As I recall, when I first saw it the car had been sitting for quite a while and the suspension had leaked down. It pumped right up on starting though and held pretty well at shutoff. Don't know if he ever addressed that but I suspect he knows a fair amount about the system. I encountered him fairly recently - over at Rusty's forum, iirc; you might try there. His ride was #44 on the list at: http://www.heckflosse.nl/photo.htm#87200 -j ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum leaks 1980 300D
What the others have said, Douglas. To elaborate, if you remove the glove box liner and possibly the lower panel under the dash you'll be able to access the manifold thru which all the vacuum circuits are routed. Testing individual circuits at the manifold will tell you whether there's leakage in a given vacuum line or its associated element. When I went thru the '80 I was able to resecure some old loose rubber connectors using small zip ties. IIRC, I had to remove a few bits from the center console to gain access and in at least a couple of cases that access was quite tight; having relatively small hands was a distinct benefit. The only circuit I didn't repair was the leaking element that controls fresh air flow thru the center vents. Have to confess I rube goldberged that one as that element is probably the most difficult to access for replacement. What I did was to plug the vacuum line at the manifold and abandon that element. I removed the round center vents thru which I could, barely, insert my hands and cut a wooden wedge to hold the fresh air flap open. Reinstalled the vents which now allow for manual control of fresh air flow. Guess I lied in the ad I just placed on c/l when I stated that *everything* works as intended. ;) -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Am I on crack...?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/car/473707498.html Most probably but I've found a replacement so it's time to see what it'll bring. If it doesn't sell within a week or so for something close to this I'll probably list it on fleabay and let the chips fall where they may. -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1996 E300D OM606.912 delivery valve diesel leak
Read the W124 fsm, 07.1-8627.pdf. 30 Nm, release; 30 Nm, release; 30 + 5 Nm. Control is different in your OM606 but I'm assuming that the fuel circuitry of the pump is essentially identical to that in the W124 E300D. -j ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] A/C Question
A 123 is easy. It's the filling in a foam sandwich accessible either thru the glove box or if not there for sure behind the lower panel below the box. Reminds me, the insulating sandwich is kaput on my '80; I need to order a replacement if I'm ever to get around to recharging the thing. -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Where is the ACC temp sensor?
83-630 in the fsm, Kaleb. There reference to a partition, center-top presumably at the rear of the engine compartment. Sounds like you'd have to remove the ABS control unit, if fitted, to get to it for removal. Is the SDL ABS equipped? -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Where is the ACC temp sensor?
I just recently disconnected the tired old aux pump in my '87 TD. Haven't driven it a lot since then but my initial impression is that pretty much precisely the symptoms you've described have disappeared and the acc is behaving in a much more civilized fashion. -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Help a lost lister
What they all said. But if you find yourself OD'ing on the Mall and getting claustrophobic in the City, there's some beautiful and quite rural country out near Leesburg. Annapolis is a beauty of a town that's just dripping with history. Charlottesville's worth a visit if you can spare the time for a couple hour drive. -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Lock Cylinder Removal
Flying blind here, Dave, but could that second pdf have anything to do with it? Not at all sure the transponder coil part of the instruction applies. What the heck is a 'drive authorization system' anyway? -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 97 e320 key issues
From WIS. -j -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RR lock cyl 210.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 96638 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20070716/1f75e217/attachment.pdf -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RR transponder 210.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 42960 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20070716/1f75e217/attachment-0001.pdf ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Intake Manifold
Only a few stripped bolt heads, John? That's nothing. I had to use a hammer cold chisel to start fully half the bolts when I first removed the intake from the old rust belt albatross. Bit of a pita but doable beats waiting a week for a special order. Had no such troubles when I replaced the head on my current wagon. -joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] tilt sunroof repair
I may have posted a relevant link to Spud's website, Loren, but I've not yet gone there myself. Try this: http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_sunroof/ -joe
Re: [MBZ] 91 350SDL tranny
Does that tranny have a reverse band adjutment like on my old 123 240D? -Mike Canfield I wondered the same thing, but don't see any indication in the epc that the 722.361 has a reverse band that might be amenable to external adjustment. -joe
Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon hitches, etc
I think the main issue with the 124 hitches and probably later models is the bulb out warning circuitry. Isn't it the case that without modification except for the addition of lights the bulb out warning system will go wonky? Maybe not so much an issue with earlier models.. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Gotta brag -- Check out my $3200 '87 300TDT
Excellent score, John! Was it part of an estate sale or what? What of the other 2 examples in that 1st pic? -joe
Re: [MBZ] Gotta brag -- Check out my $3200 '87 300TDT
Got lucky found a factory hitch with electrics on german ebay. Buddy was bringing in some vehicles parts at about that time so I hitched a ride for it in his container. The hitches turn up fairly regularly over there but the electrics are a bit more of a poser; lots of sedan harnesses but very few for wagons. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Will a new fender fix this?
Having suffered thru a much worse crunching of a 124 front fender last year I feel at least marginally qualified to hazard a guess. It just might require a little massage of the underpinnings in the area of the headlight support but given that neither the headlight or turn signal look to have shattered there's a fair chance that a new fender will bolt right up and present no problems so far as headlight and turn signal attachment are concerned. I expect the bumper will come easily back into alignment once the new fender is fitted as well. The suggestion to check the margin between the back of the fender and front door is particularly to the point; If that looks good and the front door operates without a hitch you've got another good indication the damage is about as minor as could be. If the hood opens normally you should also be able to visually inspect for underlying damage. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Notes from the field: Stuck rear wheel bearing -- '87
I was travelling when I looked that up on my old laptop in the almost as old MBNA EPC, Casey. Just double checked the WW EPC with the same result though. Clearly states that 124 350 10 32 is the correct part for the 124.092, as it is for the 124.193, left side. The same holds true for 11 32 on the right side. -joe
Re: [MBZ] pulling a 4Matic engine
http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/ Think it was Casey that passed this along some months back. Pretty revealing pics of the early 4-matic. Looks like a separate sump for the diff inside the oil pan, but also looks like the front axles would disconnect pretty easily just leaving some extra control plumbing to deal with. -joe
Re: [MBZ] pulling a 4Matic engine
Is is safe to assume you've found the 32 pages of 01-0300 in the M103 section of the fsm, Kaleb? I'm assuming of course that you're dealing with an early '90's 124 gasser. Haven't been there but from scanning the first half or so it looks a riot. -joe
Re: [MBZ] pulling a 4Matic engine
Is is safe to assume you've found the 32 pages of 01-0300 in the M103 section of the fsm, Kaleb? I'm assuming of course that you're dealing with an early '90's 124 gasser. Haven't been there but from scanning the first half or so it looks a riot. -joe
Re: [MBZ] 722.4 / 1991 300D 2.5 Transmission Question
Most likely your vacuum control valve is just out of adjustment, John. There's a very simple procedure to rectify that in the fsm, 7.1-1826. -joe
[MBZ] Rousting Rusty, or new muffler for my '87TD
Bit of an odyssey over over muffler replacement. Ordered new one thru Tom at Rusty's about 3 weeks ago. WoldPac muffler as delivered was a useless pos. Rusty stepped right up and issued a call tag for return all the way to Atlanta so he could show the thing to his local WP rep. He also offered to get me a new OE muffler for just a few bux more than the offending unit, which offer I accepted with some alacrity. New muffler installed yesterday is identical to the unit it's replacing leaving me a completely happy camper - at least I will be as soon as I see a credit for the returned pos on my card statement. http://jsknight.googlepages.com/wagonmufflerpics Pics of both are to be found thru the above link. About the only reason to download the pdf is to be able to see the notes I've appended. What they point out is that the 1st bend in the inlet pipe is at the wrong angle rendering the thing useless even were I otherwise inclined to live with such an abomination. Point I want to make is that, unless WP cleans up its act in this regard, anyone looking to replace a muffler would do well to stick with OE, and not even just OEM. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Head gasket update
I replaced the accelerator sockets with the metal variety, Peter. Most all mine were cracked anyway. The sockets are cheap from Rusty; I'm out of town right now and don't have access to the p/n's but Tom knew them anyway. They're all r/h thread btw don't forget to order the locknuts if you go this route. There's one linkage that isn't adjustable, the vertically situated one; the sockets just spin on annular grooves on that one, so if you want to go metal with that one you'll need to hunt up an appropriate length properly threaded rod. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Head gasket fun
Don't fret too much Peter. I pulled the head from mine with a chain winch suspended from a bit less than 8' ceiling in a too small garage. Came out all right with the turbo exhaust manifold attached even though I didn't have the winch very well positioned. Kinda resist the temptation to put the head back on with those bits detached. I did that just to save myself the aggravation of positioning that big chunk over the block, but I'm here to state that while all those bits can be reassembled with the head installed that it's not exactly an exercise you'll want to remember. I did apply a thin smear of Hylomar HPF to the new gasket and so far no leaks that I've been able to find but then it's only got ~150mi on it as yet. Oh yeah, and absolutely no residual cooling system pressure (fingers well crossed) After it's got a few more miles on it I'll hook up the forced open t'stat and the flushing connection to the top hose and give it a Cascade enema. But that's just for oil; dunno about other forms of black goo. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?
It's kind of hard to see with everything buttoned up, but when I pulled the intake from my '87 it was immediately apparent that one source of coolant loss was the brittle o-ring that makes the seal for the fuel heater pipe at the head. Mine was visibly leaking with just a hint of residual pressure in the cooling system. -joe (currently resting himself between 1st 2nd 90 degree head bolt drill)
[MBZ] OM603 head bolt tightening sequence
http://jsknight.googlepages.com/124 Just finished yanking the head from my wagon. Fooled around a bit with acrobat and the subject page from the W126 manual. It's a much more legible diagram than that contained in the W124 manual. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Boot and connect time
My 3-4 yr old WXP Pro install shuts down in 10s flat and I can easily access gmail in 70s from power up - this in a patched together box w/ an 800MHz slot A processor.. TBird is a tad longer as it's not in my startup folder. It isn't even a particularly parsimonious install. Tell me again what do I want with the latest and greatest...? -joe
Re: [MBZ] OT Winows XP annoying click requirement
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/282866/en-us Check out google earth. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards...
Hm, so it is, Kevin. Excite maps didn't mind my spelling in the least but Clawiter it is. I did confirm that it's on W. Winton, just beyond Cabot. Phone is 510/785-3770. Been a while but they've generally had a few 123's up for grabs although I doubt you'll get much useful over the phone. I don't recall what that Oakland pyp had for 123's but they're a sizeable yard. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards...
The Addy I have for the Pick Your Part in Hayward is 92 N. Clowitter. That doesn't look quite right on the map I just pulled up though. Seems to me it's on Winton near Cabot which would be west on Winton from Clowitter. I've usually gotten there by taking Clowitter N. from 92 and turning left on Depot Rd, where there are also a few smaller yards that might be worth checking out. I take Cabot up to Winton and turn left as I recall. Should be on your left just beyond Cabot. I didn't file the addy for the Oakland yard. I was only there once about a year ago to help a friend pull a 17 head from an OM603. There prices were so good that I couldn't resist snagging a spare turbo IP. If no one else chimes in soon remind me offlist I'll see if I can dig it up. -j
Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards in California and Oregon
Stockton Auto Dismantlers 3239 S El Dorado St 9520800-235-8733 They price matched PGA with me for an alternator out of an E300D and shipped it to me for 20bux. Talked with Steve there after my wagon got smacked; they'll happily slice 'n dice. Probably won't be as cheap as a pyp though. -j
Re: [MBZ] 124 seat bottoms
Broken springs can certainly be a fly in the ointment, Ralph. But if the seat frames are intact and the cushions not completely worn out I'll warrant that you'll have a hard time believing the effect that 2 little foam blocks placed between the coils across the front of the seat can have. Dave posted to that effect and I can only confirm his stated impression. Don't know what they cost now but I paid 7 change per for the 4 I got earlier in the year. I should state that probably early last year I completely disassembled my seats, confirmed no broken springs, and stitched several layers of synthetic burlap stretched as tightly as I could to the tops of the frames. That had some small effect but nothing compared to the blocks. -joe
Re: [MBZ] 124 seat bottoms
With the seat electrics involved separation of the seat back from the bottom is kind of a pita. btdt. Additionally, the seat memory for the driver's seat would require that you interchange the control modules if you want to retain that feature. If your seat bottom is just 'flaccid', there's a much easier fix that'll make a world of difference. After about 04/89, there were installed universally at the factory 2 foam blocks in each front seat. I just last week finally got around to installing those into the seats of my wagon and they completely transformed the seat. It was Dave Meimann I believe who first discovered that this is a factory specified fix for the problem as indicated in the Programmed Repairs section of the fsm in group 91. You'll also find some similar documentation at his website that I believe came from the WIS. Look for 'seat boost' at: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/ http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/. I said it's easier than swapping. That's assuming you haven't found a pristine junkyard seat with which to replace the entire assembly. You'll still have to pull the seat and a couple of plastic trim pieces and tease the cushion bottom out of the channel in the frame. As it'd been a while since I'd had the front seats out it took me probably 2.5 hours soup to nuts for the driver's side. Couple of days later with that more recent experience under my belt I did the passenger side in 1.5 hrs. If they're not already broken don't be surprised if you do break at least one of those plastic trims trying to get them off; fortunately they're not horrendously expensive to replace. -j
Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards in California and Oregon
There's a pretty good Pick your Part in Hayward another in Oakland. I could probably come up with names and addys if needed. Not much on the N. Peninsula. Of the major dismantlers I have some experience with one in Stockton if you're driving up I-5. -j
Re: [MBZ] 1983 240D Cloth Seats
Something like this question could provide a good test of the functionality of the online EPC. If you sign up for a month's subscription to the worldwide version you should be able to enter your VIN, go into parts lookup and let it tell you precisely the part number and color code for your seat covers. You could take that info down to your local dealer see if you can find a cooperative parts man who'll order from Germany, assuming of course that they have the right stuff still in inventory over there and that the price doesn't make you blanch. On a not unrelated note, does anybody by chance have a working link to that euro parts availibility/pricing page? Used to be http://wwwsg.daimlerchrysler.com/Projects/wi/cda/etpl?ETNR=A2012404317from=queryetpl_lang= , identified in my Favorites as Classic Ersatzteile, but this old link no longer functions. Hope they haven't abandoned that service altogether. -joe
Re: [MBZ] new SDL head
I wonder why a new head would require machine work? ___ New heads are supplied bare and must be set up before installation, Jim. If I were considering bidding on this one I'd wonder about the competence of the shop that did the work. If confirmed good, the starting bid would be a really good price, considerably less than the best price I recall seeing for a bare head a year or two ago. -j
Re: [MBZ] Part number for 617.912 engine shock
Most of what you're looking for should be in the Word doc you'll be receiving offlist, Euan. Couple screenshots from the epc. -joe engine shock.doc Description: MS-Word document
Re: [MBZ] Missing lister #2, where's Spud?
First Marshall and now Spud, is someone, or something, taking our good people away? Has anyone heard from Dave Meimann? What Mitch said, Jim. My recall not quite being the steel trap it once was I'm not positive but I have a vague recollection of his having asked after you in the not too far distant past. Maybe your spam filter's a bit overly aggressive...? As for the good doktor, he's alive presumably well over at the MBCA forum. -joe
Re: [MBZ] OT: My Vanagon's persistant temp gauge problem is resolved
Thank you, Casey. Made my day. At least you needn't concern yourself with the possibility of having taken out the timing belt.. ;) -j
Re: [MBZ] Supersucker
David's right on the money. I got lucky in that my 'shop' vac is a little old cannister with a hose that has a controllable leak built into it's handle. Using the usual plastic bucket I just set the vacuum leakage so the the bucket just barely starts to buckle and keep an eye on it as the hot oil tends to have an effect. Only difficulty I've experienced is figuring out how long is enough. Five minutes is more than enough, probably way more. You absolutely do not need the godzilla of vacuum cleaners for this little chore. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Club 123D car show pics
Presumably the 'Nitrous Oxide Systems' sticker on the back of the convert is more body art a la the phony tail pipes. Don't see any signs of plumbing for same in what I take to be the engine compartment pic. What's with the breather in that pic, anyway? They do that differently in '81 than '80, or is that another hack job? -joe
Re: [MBZ] a servo rebuilt kit?
Re: ebay item 330028300261 Looks suspiciously like the lower part of the servo containing the plumbing and coolant flow control valve...? If that part needs replacing then I'd suspect the gearset is past it also. -joe
[MBZ] Intake Manifold Torque Settings
I didn't find it at first either, Larry. But then it occurred to me to look in the 126 manual. There, at 14-180 in the 300SDL manual, it's listed as 25 Nm. -joe
Re: [MBZ] MBCA membership and voting...
Is that for age or mileage? Or is there a special club for centurarians (?) who drive 100 mph on the track? __- Not quite, Andrew. My understanding is that kind of a holy grail for more or less stock 500E owners is to break 100 at the drag strip in the standing 1/4mi. -joe
Re: [MBZ] MBCA membership and voting...
As I recall, Chuck, it took Spud more than a few trips down the tarmac to achieve that goal at ~2700' elevation in Idaho. If you're at all serious about it you might want to ask him for some tips. I think maybe traction control at launch was a bit of an issue he maybe wound up stripping excess weight and running on an almost empty tank. I expect there's more.. Check out his website at: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/dragstrip/ I'll holler when I've got the ballot in front of me. -joe
Re: [MBZ] To Veggie or Not
Almost makes me wish I was driving enough to justify buying the kit for my ride. At ~$100/wk for diesel, if you're getting your oil for nearly nothing the payback is pretty quick. Just heard on another list about someone who coked his rings running unheated veggie; looks like Frybrid covers that issue pretty effectively. If the D/R is running like a keeper I'd just go for it. Are these components you can easily adapt to another ride when if the time comes? -joe
Re: [MBZ] MBCA
Yep, second that, Loren. Chuck's altogether standup (besides, he gave me a ride in his rpg). Is it too late to pony up dues and get a ballot? -joe ___ Our own Chuck Landenberger is running for one of the DAL slots in MBCA. I urge all of you who are MBCA members to Vote for Chuck.
Re: [MBZ] MBCA membership and voting...
Just got off the phone w/ the nice lady at MBCA, Chuck; started from scratch to get you listed as sponsor. Should have the voting requisites w/i a week or 2. Hope you break into the century club at the drag strip. :) -joe I just checked w/the MBCA National Business Office. If you call (1-800-637-2360) and join, you will receive a ballot. The ballot must be received by October 16, 2006 in order to be counted. That's RECEIVED, not just postmarked. As info, the dues are $45.00/year, with slight reductions for 2 and 3 year memberships. If you do join, please give my name and member number (L03) as your sponsor.
Re: [MBZ] 124 Overvoltage relay Question
Think you might be looking at the wrong page in the wiring diagram, Loren. Looks to me as though that circuitry comes into play along about m/y 1990. -joe
Re: [MBZ] rebuilding a W123 front caliper
I will admit to having violated the manual's stricture against splitting the halves of the calipers now on more than one occasion without apparent adverse consequence. Makes inspection/cleaning a bit easier and reinstallation of the pucks a lot easier. Last time on my V'gon following a sudden almost catastrophic brake failure I only discovered a hairline crack in a caliper bore after I'd split the thing. Might otherwise have wasted time $ trying to refurbish a piece of junk. I do like your idea about using a grease gun though, Jim. I do these things infrequently enough that I pretty much always have to reinvent the wheel turn that little chore into a major donnybrook. The first puck's easy and iirc, if you make that one the one in the half that doesn't have the bleed valve and then split the halves it's pretty easy to seal the bore in the mating surface allowing you to push the other one out. -joe
Re: [MBZ] top-posting
You go, Ernest! Never had a lot of patience for folk that decide there might be something of interest in a thread after it's been ongoing for a couple of days and then have the effrontery to expect that those who've been involved all along have some obligation to bring them up to speed. Also second Casey's suggestion that y'all get you some gmail. It's absolutely the bee's knees for managing list traffic - as well as bringing yourself back up to speed if you've been caught with your pants down. Not to mention that it serves pretty well to control the deluge of spam that seems to go hand in hand with carryin' on with the questionable sorts that seem to populate these environs. -joe __ interesting; i couldn't find any program i use that defaulted to bottom posting; Outlook, SquirrelMail, and even my old Netscape Mail all default to top posting. works for me; i much prefer having the relevant new information right at the top when i open an e-mail. if i need more background, i can (and do) scroll down, but it seems counter-intuitive to me to *have* to scroll down some indeterminate amount to get to the new info. while i find it silly that some list software will still add the signature file to each and every post as a thread progresses (and i try to trim to minimize the propagation of such), what i find still much more of a problem than that or bottom-posting is the failure of some folks to be able to make sure that a Subject Line is relevant to the topic being discussed. it would be nice (for example) if it was possible to tell that a thread with a Subject like Valve Adjustments had wandered off to a discussion of fly-tying; it's not that difficult, and it would certainly make the Signal-to-Noise ratio more tolerable! (sort by subject, select, and delete!) ;-) cheers! e
[MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining
: http://makeashorterlink.com/?G4565299D Anybody got a clue as to how this thing might function, or what might be a better way to control water buildup in a compressor tank? I've got a small compressor that I'm intending to install into an enclosure outside the garage with on/off switch, manifold FRL inside would rather not have to hike out to the unit every time it occurs to me that the tank might be due for draining. -joe
Re: [MBZ] check out this strange 603 engine...
There's an almost horizontal flat surface just in front of the i/p that's just big enough for the engine # to be stamped into it. joe
Re: [MBZ] Question on tie rod part numbers 190D
I'm on digest, Robert, so I expect someone's already fielded your question but just in case, 15 03's left, and 16 03's... you guessed it. -j
Re: [MBZ] 90's 300TDt 0-60 times (14 seconds)
Hmm. Seems I've been scanning the subject lines in the digests a little too loosely. Can you indulge me, John, and provide a little more detail about this ride? Is it a conversion or what? Any idea as to precise pedigree of the engine? -joe
Re: [MBZ] Part number for 300TD self-levelling struts
My installation doesn't bring up a datacard for your VIN, Euan, but defaults to the generic 123190 catalog for EU/JA. Neither does a search for your referenced part # bring any joy. The listed p/n for the struts is A 123 320 07 13. Nor is there reference to any p/n's that may have been superceded. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Part number for 300TD self-levelling struts
I look forward to hearing the result, Euan. BTW, as I believe should have been obvious from my post, I was searching an install from a WWEPC that did include datacards for eurospec vehicles. Don't recall offhand whether there was a further option that I may have left unchecked for markets other than NA. But I'd be surprised to learn that MB installed a different version of that particular part anywhere based on intended market. The version I'm running is a couple of yrs old now but it seems unlikely that they'd have come up with a revised 123 part in that interim. -joe
Re: [MBZ] new eBay shipping fraud-update
This can be sticky and sometimes completely innocent. Brand new OM606IP I recently bought on german ebay with the intention of trading for a rebuild to go into my '87 wagon was weeks arriving even though I'd paid for 'express' shipping. Turned out it got to US customs quick time at which point it was transfered from Deutsch Post to the good ol' USPS (w/ no tracking) for final delivery. Took about 3 weeks to get from JFK to me after taking no time at all to get to JFK from the fatherland. SNAFU is to be expected whenever those idiots get into the act. Left me a little red faced for the - albeit goot natured I'll warrant - grief I gave the seller in the interim, especially after I'd determined that it'd have cost ~$250 to ship the thing FedEx or DHL instead of the EUR50 I paid for DP. -j
Re: [MBZ] I am in hell
There's some pretty good cliff dwellings and a river at Canyon de Chelly, south of Monument Valley. Don't recall any riverside camping anywhere near Mesa Verde. joe
Re: [MBZ] Cleaning Sheepskins
Just looked it up. 5 yrs ago it cost me $70 to get the skins from the 300D professionally drycleaned. Money well spent. joe
Re: [MBZ] Need help locating Part of Manual 83-040
Sending separately direct an extract from the WIS, 83-140, Larry, that looks like it might cover the issue. Not too big a file; hope your mail server doesn't choke on it. joe
[MBZ] W123 remote entry
Were you wondering about this yesterday, Casey? I've had remote entry to my old 300D for years; no need to add an electric vacuum pump. Go to http://www.spal-usa.com/ and pick out a basic kit that'll handle at least one door. Then under accessories you'll find: Part Number: 3707 Description: Power Lock Actuator / 2 Wire (with Hardware) Retail Price: $10.95. This thing gets installed into the driver's door and serves to raise and lower the locking rod mechanically as controlled by the receiver, from the kit, that gets mounted under the dash. It's a little tricky to install the actuator but I'm sure it's well within your reach. Think I've replaced the batteries in the transmitters maybe once in probably 7-8 years; otherwise haven't had to touch it. Mine is programable to give a 3sec lock pulse which has been more than adequate. Got it set up to flash the right side parking lights when actuated and put the LED in the dash; little flashing red light when locked just might serve to deter potential miscreants. joe
Re: [MBZ] 123 A/C info
Those files are mainly for manual a/c, Casey. I've scanned the wiring diagram from my paper manual for acc2, stripped from list copy, which I think might provide much of what you need. 83.8-603/15. Those things aren't really legible in the cd version anyway. joe -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wiring diagram w123 acc2.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 77062 bytes Desc: not available Url : /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20060704/4ea2461f/attachment.pdf
Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo update
Sounds like that pump's leaking internally, Kaleb. I expect an oil analysis would confirm that. I can probably get you a new pump for less than what it'd cost to get that one rebuilt. Let me know offlist if you're interested. joe
Re: [MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? ...
I'm under the impression that 50mm is plenty close enough to 2 for practical purposes, Tom. You think not? joe
Re: [MBZ] Anyone install a towing hitch on their 124 chassis? ...
Haven't yet gotten around to installing it but I scored a factory Oris hitch off german ebay a while back. Installs like Casey's hitch but looks to me to be considerably more substantial, rated to tow 1900kg. Also has a neat toollessly detachable ball head that when removed leaves no receiver hanging below the bumper. I need to get some eyes welded on for safety chains as those apparently aren't required in the fatherland and probably get the crossbar powder coated. These things turn up fairly regularly not too expensively, but shipping might be prohibitive; I was fortunate to have been able to get it drop shipped to Berlin whence it hitched a ride in a friend's container to the left coast. joe
Re: [MBZ] Electronic AC servo on sale
As noted earlier the Unwired Tools servo replacement that Performance currently has on sale is a closeout of an earlier than current version. Should work well enough but installation is a bit more involved and iirc it lacks some of the programability of the current version. If anyone's feeling tempted by this deal it might be wise to go to the Unwired website and download the manuals for the current (I4) immediately previous (Hx) versions. There may be some documentation there that details the differences as well. I just don't remember. Also, expect the installation to take considerably more than 2 hrs the first time around, especially if you suspect the existence of vacuum leaks. joe
Re: [MBZ] Coil Spring Compressor
Just a wee reminder folks. Klann delivers a little injunction against using air tools with all their compressors. YMMV of course, but I'm personally inclined to take these little caveats rather seriously and I *certainly* wouldn't use air with a clone. joe
[MBZ] FW: a/c ?
Spud's still unsubbed from the list; too busy to keep up these days. He's asked me to forward the following, which I've culled from several emails in hopes someone can shed more light. Those of you who've been around surely know how to send mail to him direct. I'm on digest so won't make a very good conduit anyway. j Begin quoted text: My BIL had to replace the compressor in his 87 300D, and while he was at it, decided to convert back to R-12 and flush out the neon green PAG/POE oil. However, the FSM is rather vague on the fresh oil fill. There's a spec of 120cc of mineral oil to be added to a new, empty compressor. Question is, is that spec for the compressor only, or the entire system? It appears that there may need to be another 70cc or so for the condenser, drier, and hoses. Anyone know for sure? ...he did put in approx 7 ounces of oil. The system held pressure for 2 hours with dry nitrogen (around 300psi, I think) and then was vacuumed for a couple hours also, then charged. And after all that, the new compressor was binding enough to squeal the belt and trip the belt safety circuit... d'oh! Absolutely no idea what went wrong - any ideas? Put 4oz into the compressor and the remaining 3oz into the lines. It was a fresh rebuild, or new, I'm not sure which (probably rebuilt). It arrived dry - no oil in it. He added 4oz to the compressor and turned it by hand about 20 times before installing it. I too am wondering if it's a bad rebuild... at least I hope so. He's not too happy about losing a fresh charge of R-12, though, that's for sure
Re: [MBZ] Light range adjuster ?
I think the instructions say to adjust at zero, but I adjusted mine on the 90's 300TDt at 1so that I can move to zero and adjust the beams upwards a bit on the highway. __ Great minds really do think alike, don't they John? ;) I was a bit surprised though to find that the procedure is covered in the 124 MBNA manual, not that the fact is of any overriding import. joe
[MBZ] What've I done...?
Got a really great deal on a Gus Pfister rebuilt I/P for my '87 TD so plugged the thing in just before leaving on a little road trip a couple of weeks ago. While I was at it, I pulled the instrument cluster to replace the outside temp display. Got it started the evening before we left so there really wasn't time to troubleshoot the little issues that developed with the I/C at the time, but since returning I've pulled the I/C again to verify connections/grounds,etc. Anyway what developed all at once was that: 1) tach doesn't work 2) clock only works when key is off 3) glow indicator is nonop; starts fine though. So far I haven't found anything to indicate that all this happening at once is anything but coincidental, but if anyone can think of some one thing that might explain more than one of these issues I'd purely love to hear it. Failing that, guess I'll have to approach them individually. Glow indicator is rather low priority; I'm going to be replacing the head soon and will be upgrading to an afterglow controller plugs at that time anyway. I'm pretty much mystified by the clock's strange behavior though and the tach as well. Unless I hear a bettter idea soon, I guess my next step will be to take a look at the engine speed sensor which I take it is on the left side of the bell housing and which I'm wondering if I might have disturbed when I was fooling with the cruise actuator while replacing the I/P. Oh, yeah, almost forgot, I lost cruise function at the same time; never rains but it pours around these parts. ;( joe (on digest, and with a bad case of indigestion)
Re: [MBZ] What've I done...?
Marshall Jim, many thanks for the suggestions! Clock had me thinking grounds as well, but everything else works I hadn't considered a possible grounding issue inside the cluster as all I did the last time around was to change out the outside temp display, but I did have it apart months ago to deal with a tripmeter issue so I'll have to double check that. From the ETM it didn't look to me like the tach went to ground anywhere inside the cluster but I was never very confident about that either. AC works fine; we'd have been in pretty dire straits last week down in the desert without that. I'd kind of figured the cruise stopped working because maybe I'd not taken pains to check the linkages when I reassembled it; I did displace the new pump some in an attempt to leave more space at the top for better access to the ALDA and such so that may be the cruise issue but I'll certainly keep in mind the possibility of the Hall effect sensor. I'd decided that I could replace the IP w/o removing the intake manifold and being more than a little pigheaded at times I persisted in that approach even after I began to encounter difficulties accessing the cruise actuator. Turns out it is possible to do it that way but I'm guessing the job took me something like twice as long with the intake in place as it would have if I'd just pulled it for starters; live learn, I hope! joe
[MBZ] Light range adjuster ?
Finally got around to hooking up the switch in the '80 300D this afternoon, so now the question is in which position should the switch be when the headlights are adjusted. Both this switch and the not yet installed one for the '87 wagon are 4-position switches numbered 0-3. I'm inclining toward doing the adjustment with the switches in #1 position to allow for a litte extra range in the 0 position and 2 settings to progressively restrict range when the vehicles are loaded. joe
[MBZ] 124.133/193 washer reservoir
Finally decided a couple weeks ago to bite the bullet and replace the crusty old reservoir in my wagon. What finally arrived after I was informed that the old p/n, 124 869 06 20, had changed, along with the price of course, was 124 869 09 20, which turns out to be the reservoir that's installed in the 124.128. I was initially summat disappointed but decided to give it a closer look. The new reservoir is longer and thinner than the original and if it was to fit it was clear that the overboost protection switch would have to be displaced. With that out of the way though the new res dropped right into the original bracket affording a lot better view of and access to engine compartment components on that side. It was a simple matter to take a piece of small steel bar stock drill 3 equally spaced holes, mounting the result so as to move the overboost switch forward by precisely the distance between the bracket mounting points or about 1.75. I was never really all that satisfied with the amount of real estate the old res occupied so I'm pretty well pleased with the result. The only other thing I had to do to complete the connection was to massage the brittle old cable harness with a bit of fairly gently heat to render the necessary portions pliable enough for long enough to adapt to their new positions. The harness may not be long enough to allow for direct connection to the headlamp washer motor on the engine side of the res, but that's not an issue on my ride as that hole's been plugged. If anybody finds a need for one of these, don't neglect to order a new lid to go along with it. Mine's sealed with a few layers of plastic wrap secured with a rubber band until I can lay my hands on the much larger correct lid. joe
Re: [MBZ] OT How long before we end up paying ridiculous $$$...
I suppose I'm nowhere near the first to notice that to continue to use WXP Update it's now required that users allow the installation of what is essentially spyware to confirm you've got a 'genuine' licensed copy installed. What'l they think of next? joe
Re: [MBZ] Torque for delivery valve holder
You're quite right, Bob - this list can be a real hoot. If you go deep enough into Bruce's pump to find an o-ring the pump's prolly due for a trip to the test stand for recalibration. The copper seal for that pump is 005 997 45 48 and the proper torque is *40-50 Nm on the pipe connection in one step*, unless there's been a tsb radically revising that procedure to something approximating what's appropriate for an OM603 pump for which btw the appropriate final torque is something more like 27 ft-lb than 30 (at least I think that's right, but I'm miles from home and without my trusty tdm). But then what's a margin of error of 10% more or less, between friends... ;( joe (shaking head)
[MBZ] W124 SLS valve
Anybody ever successfully disassemble one? Replaced the one in my '87 TD when I found it wasn't functioning altogether correctly after getting it back from accident repairs. Guess I'm wondering if a shard from the shattered reservoir might have made it thru the pump and clogged a port in the valve. Thinking of getting an adjustable pin wrench and mounting the thing in a vise but not the least bit confident that's going to be sufficient to the task... joe
[MBZ] OM603 injection pump
I see in the epc that in Europe a different pump was installed after engine 011121. Any informed speculation as to what the difference might be? Does this likely have anything to do with the slightly higher output of the European version? joe
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro ?
Puttin' together a little nuisance parts order I think I've just had a stroke of genius - or something. I was going to add that 5-hole switch panel to the order in another attempt to get one that'll allow me to add the light range selector switch to the center console when it occurred to me that there's already a switch in there that's never used. Thought I remembered what it was for but had to check the owner's manual to confirm that it's for the back seat courtesy lamp, which comes on anyway when a back door is opened even though the switch is out of the car at present. So what occurred to me was to wonder why I might not want to just abandon that switch and plug the light range selector switch into its place. That'd even leave me with a spare light tube to plug into the new switch. Anybody think of any serious downside to this approach? joe
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro ?
Can't remember the last time anyone, or even dogs, were in the back seat of that car, so I guess the obvious solution's been staring me in the face waiting to be recognized all along. Thx. joe
Re: [MBZ] Oil leak in front of engine
EPC shows a washer, N000125 010518, between the adjuster block and 2 washers, N000137 010201 N912004 014100, under the bolt head. joe
Re: [MBZ] W124, hairline crack in rear muffler
Went ahead and picked up a band-aid fix at Kragens. Applied several thin coats with liberal heat between. Time will tell. I just may have to give PGA a shout in the AM though. joe
Re: [MBZ] Ebay Pop Tester
At that price it could be a really good deal - or not. It's not unlikely that the piston is frozen in its bore from sitting too long with less than perfectly clean fuel in it or maybe even soaking up moisture from the air. Had to disassemble mine for that reason once; now I charge it with M1 before putting it away unless I expect to be using it again within a day or two which doesn't happen much. joe
[MBZ] W124, hairline crack in rear muffler
Karsten mentioned this when he returned the wagon following its recent facelift. I took advantage of having it up on stands today for a general inspection to locate what he was talking about. Crack is about 9 long toward the center where it makes a sharp bend to form part of the seam where the halves are joined. Is it a waste of time $ to try a hi-temp sealant on something like this? If it might last for more than 1000 miles or so I'd like to take care of it today as we're leaving on a little road trip soon. Offlist cc appreciated as I'm on digest. joe
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro
Near as I can tell Mathieu is correct. There's just no place the light range switch can go on a W123 anywhere near the headlight switch. Unless someone comes up with a better idea I'm thinking I'll mix up some fairly soupy epoxy with some ground up pencil lead for color and make a mold out of clay in the panel and just fill the blasted hole. Maybe use a little M1 carefully applied with a small brush as a release agent. joe
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro
I have removed switch blanks in order to install switches where none existed. They were made of black plastic with tabs on the ends, removed and installed by flexing. Johnny B. _ Unfortunately the opening for the temp wheel is a little different size shape than those intended for switches. If I had a blank though it might be possible to grind it down to fit and epoxy it in place. Not finding that in the epc, has anyone got a p/n for switch blanks? joe
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro ?
The label on the plastic bag the part came in has the p/n I ordered, 123 683 31 08. Finally occurred to me to do the obvious check the part itself. On the back it's clearly indicated that I was sent the wrong part, 123 683 38 08. D'oh!! Fortunately the correct part appears to be available in the NA market for a whopping $2.40, so it appears I've had us out chasing wild geese again. Abject apologies. joe (the idiot with egg on his face)
[MBZ] W123 euro ?
Along with the wagon arrived today a box of assorted parts from Speed, among which is the switch panel, the one that carries the sunroof/antenna/etc switches. From the epc, the p/n I ordered received looked to have 5 openings for switches, the 5th being needed for a light range adjuster switch. However what arrived has a sixth opening, 4th from the left, a bit narrower than the others and without the little top bottom recessed bits for the switches to latch onto. Anybody with any experience with euro 123's seen anything like this and maybe know what's intended for this extra opening? Guess I could stuff it with chewing gum or something... :( joe
[MBZ] Back in the fold, my uncrunched '87 300TD
Delivered about noon today, replete with new late production hood/pad/grille/star, late production euro lenses to go with the updated hood, fan/clutch/2-piece fan shroud/Behr radiator, hydraulic reservoir - the list goes on. Paint and fitment are perfect; if I get down close and look real hard I can just see the hint of a wrinkle in the fender apron that's left over from the straightening process. Please excuse the gloat, but I'm kinda sorta walking on air and just had to share. :) Thank you Farmers - not, joe
Re: [MBZ] Classic modern Becker radio
Doesn't look like there's any mapping for north amerika. Drat! I was all set to rush out and snag a pair for my oh so classic rides. joe
Re: [MBZ] FW: Performance Products - Digital AC Servo Upgrade
Here's an update from Steve at Unwired in response to my email query this AM: The hardware supports tapping into the coolant temp sensor that drives the dash gauge. We just didn't implement the software. Here in Arizona we want the system to turn on immediately. In cold climates you probably don't. If the function is completely automatic then you can't turn on the system manually. You can, however, turn the current system off manually. We still haven't found a clear preference for either. We're working on a version that will allow users to customize this feature (and others). Check in with our website in a couple of months for the release of the feature. Performance is having a clearance on the ACCII Upgrade kit. As you correctly surmised this is an older version. They're selling a version H6, the current version is I2. the H6 version has the same great regulation and built-in sensors as the I2. The I2 version added simplified installation, control for the center vents, a metal box, and compatability with the future customization feature. Puhleeze! Don't let's go thru this again, Kaleb. And this after he offered you a really really special deal. ;) joe
Re: [MBZ] Running without electricity?
Few yrs ago stopped to refuel about an hour into a 3 hr drive in my first '87 TD. Wouldn't crank anywhere close to fast enough to start after filling. Tried jumping with an obviously not robust enough battery. Finally resorted to tow starting with the assistance of a good samaritan. Drove the rest of the way to our destination fairly uneventfully with everything that might draw current turned off. Gauges went wonky and we lost brake lights before arriving. Recharged the battery and returned home the next day. Turned out that some genius who shall remain unnamed had neglected to secure the bale that holds the alternator cable connector in place. Reconnected, recharged the battery and everything was normal; no damage done. joe
[MBZ] Unwired ACC II
Finally got the Unwired kit to replace the servo amp installed functioning in my '80 300D. Actually I spent a good part of last weekend on it. Nothing inherently very difficult about the installation but getting the kinks out turned into quite a marathon. Vacuum issues were as expected the most time consuming. The center vent pod of course was leaking; solved that by disconnecting plugging the vac line to it and forcing the vent flap to stay open with a blunt wooden wedge; I figure I can just control air flow thru those vents manually until I get around to replacing the pod. That was the easy part. There's a 4-way connector under the center vents and behind the little panel that holds the sunroof/antenna/etc switches. The contolled leak wire that plugs into one of those branches fell off onto the floor while I was foolin' around trying to check for leaks while I was tryin' to fish that back into place from the glovebox side another of the lines popped off. After wasting way too much time trying to get them securely back on from the glovebox side I gave up and pulled the center vents and the aforementioned switch panel. At that point I could at least *see* the blasted connector only to discover that the branch that connects to the bottom of the rightmost switchover valve had also popped off. But with the improved access I was finally able to get the offending bits back in place secured, using a long pair of needle nose pliers, with zip ties. Secured the controller box to the only really viable place, to the inner fender apron high up near the front of the wheel well, installed the water valve and return pipe where the servo had been, made the electrical connections (easy), hooked up the vacuum lines (also pretty easy), and proceeded to run the 2 temp sensors thru the firewall where one gets inserted into the foam tube and the other into the air duct behind the glove box. There I ran into more trouble. These sensors (thermisters) are tiny little disks not quite 1/8 in diameter soldered to a couple of small gauge wires and surrounded with a bit of heat shrink. I know this because while maneuvering them thru the firewall the shrink wrap popped off one of them. Didn't look like any harm done so I put a fresh piece of shrink wrap on and finished installing them. Cleaned up the mess in the engine compartment. I'd some time ago installed a spare relay box of the sort that resides on the left wheel well directly opposite on the right side intending to use it to house the headlight relays I'd planned. But the Osram Hyper bulbs I put in recently have pretty permanently shelved that plan so I just bundled up all the electrical and vac lines with zip ties and some of that spiral wrap sheathing and stuffed all the connectors, electrical vacuum, into the relay box. There's sure a lot more room in that part of the engine compartment with the blasted servo gone. Problem was that when I fired it up I only had maximum heat. Bummer! So Monday morining I got on the phone with Steve Schlanger at unwired and told him my experience. Hearing of my difficulties with the temp sensors he had me open the controller and check the things with a volt meter. Sure enough, one of them was bad and we both almost concluded that it was the one that had lost its wrapper. He was all set to send me a replacement when I wondered out loud if it might make sense to confirm that it was indeed the culprit. He wanted me to do a different voltage test but I got pig headed and cut the shrink wrap off the one I'd previously repaired and managed to snap off one of the wires. No matter I thought; if that's the bad one the other one ought to still test good which of course it didn't. So Steve, princely to the end, overnighted me 2 new sensors attached to cables more than long enough to reach the controller. I got home a bit early today so I opened up the controller and removed the board for access, pulled the battery and routed the new sensors to the board. Soldered 'em up, buttoned things back up and took it for a test spin after dinner. It seems at first blush to work as advertised; guess I'll have to push a bit more R-12 into the system now so I can check out the a/c. Only thing I've noticed so far that's different is that the blower comes on immediately when it's set to auto-lo or -hi, even with a stone cold engine. Guess I can live with that if I have to but I gotta wonder if its not possible to wire the factory temp switch into the circuit to restore that little feature. Did I mention? It sure is nice to be able to open the hood without having to look at that blasted servo! :) joe
Re: [MBZ] FW: Performance Products - Digital AC Servo Upgrade Kit
I've got an email off to Steve at Unwired wondering if he can shed any light on the price break. Rusty didn't even give me his special one-day rate, Kaleb, so I was stuck with the full price of $695. joe
Re: [MBZ] Wagon/Ins update
That always seems to be a touchy point. Did they allow for a rental while repairs are made? Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am _ Took weeks to squeeze a clear acceptance of liability out of 'em. Didn't feel it was wise to ask until then, and of course after they made a lowball offer to total settle their position was that they don't provide rentals once an offer to settle is on the table. Finally after I finished massaging them on that point and they'd agreed to fix the wagon, they did authorize a rental I managed to negotiate for a minivan by demanding something of at least equal hauling capacity as the wagon. I didn't take them up on that until last week when my mom had a little heart attack we had to run down to their place play nursemaid for a couple of days. Kept the Aerostar for a week; just returned it yesterday. The Enterprise invoice to Farmers of which I have a copy is for $354.92. I'm thinkin' that may give me a little leverage when the time comes. joe
Re: [MBZ] Wagon/Ins update
So, would you consider the wreck a blessing in disguise not counting any aches and pains? It'll look sweet with the upgraded parts. Judgment reserved for the moment, but I'm shall we say guardedly optomistic. ;) I'm not however feeling so grateful to Farmers that I'm much inclined to let them slide on the matter of the pittance they've allowed for loss of use. joe
