Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-18 Thread MG
I tried tightening the valve and it was already tight. I guess it 
may be the seal in it. They are a very tiny little seal. So the 
next time it goes down I'll try to get it out an go from there.


I like the idea of mineral oil myself but had to put in the other 
stuff because I changed to the 134a back when. To go back I would 
have to clean and flush everything and put a new dryer on. May do 
that when the time comes.


I don't know about the not into a vacuum. Didn't make sense to me 
either, not what I learned long ago but since there was a bit of 
residual still in there I just went with it and it seems to work.


So far.

Manfred



Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 06:17:20 -0800
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

 The leak seems to be at the fill valve

These are Schrader valves, I've had loose ones that I've tightened
with a standard tire tool, 'live'.

 done that before but they don't seem to last very long.

Nasty refrigerant/oils eating the seal?  I sure like mineral oil
and HC's!

 They do say not to put the stuff into a vacuum

Whyever not?  That's SOP for A/C work.  What are you _supposed_
to do with it after a full servicing?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-18 Thread Dieselhead
I ordered new schrader valve cores from Mr. Q for my 87 300D last 
year.  Took care of the leaks.


I tried tightening the valve and it was already tight. I guess it 
may be the seal in it. They are a very tiny little seal. So the next 
time it goes down I'll try to get it out an go from there.


I like the idea of mineral oil myself but had to put in the other 
stuff because I changed to the 134a back when. To go back I would 
have to clean and flush everything and put a new dryer on. May do 
that when the time comes.


I don't know about the not into a vacuum. Didn't make sense to me 
either, not what I learned long ago but since there was a bit of 
residual still in there I just went with it and it seems to work.


So far.

Manfred



Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 06:17:20 -0800
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue


 The leak seems to be at the fill valve


These are Schrader valves, I've had loose ones that I've tightened
with a standard tire tool, 'live'.


 done that before but they don't seem to last very long.


Nasty refrigerant/oils eating the seal?  I sure like mineral oil
and HC's!


 They do say not to put the stuff into a vacuum


Whyever not?  That's SOP for A/C work.  What are you _supposed_
to do with it after a full servicing?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-17 Thread MG
Yup and no having to look around for the components or how to get 
them into the system. Works great and easy to put in. Works for 
me. Mind you cheaper would be better but


Manfred


Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:49:37 -0400
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue


Envirosafe is a hyrdrocarbon blend with a scent.  Basically just 
propane/isobutane.



--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-17 Thread MG
From what I remember reading on their web site you can use any 
oil and even mix and match the various refrigerants. In my case I 
had been using 134a and had the ester oil in there. There was 
enough in there to have about 5lbs pressure. I just shook the can 
and then inverted the can and ran it in like it said. I actually 
put in one can last year with the 134a to get the system up to 
cooling right near the end of the summer and it worked just the 
same as the 134a alone. Over the winter most of everything leaked 
out so now I have pretty much just the envirosafe in it. The leak 
seems to be at the fill valve so not having any way to recover 
the stuff I guess I will just have to wait till it leaks out 
again and then replace the valve. I seem to remember having done 
that before but they don't seem to last very long. They do say 
not to put the stuff into a vacuum so maybe you will have to put 
just enough 134a in there to get about 5lbs and then go from 
there. Two cans was just right for mine so you probably don't 
need any more then that. If you want to come over some time I 
have some extra so we can put that in right quick.


Manfred


Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 23:25:22 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

Hi Manfred,
Do you have ester oil in your A/C system or did you flush and 
change it?
I'm thinking of putting Envirosafe in one of mine but wondered if 
oil had to

be
changed since I just flushed the system and put in fresh ester 
oil, a new

compressor. and a new filter unit.  I have a good vacuum pump.
Thanks,
Gerry
P.S.  I have a couple of the ram chips out of a no-name laptop 
that you can

have if the 512s don't work.
Contact me offline if you need them.

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-17 Thread Jim Cathey

The leak seems to be at the fill valve


These are Schrader valves, I've had loose ones that I've tightened
with a standard tire tool, 'live'.


done that before but they don't seem to last very long.


Nasty refrigerant/oils eating the seal?  I sure like mineral oil
and HC's!


They do say not to put the stuff into a vacuum


Whyever not?  That's SOP for A/C work.  What are you _supposed_
to do with it after a full servicing?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-17 Thread Gerry Archer

Thanks, Manfred, I'll contact you next time I'm going up that way
and bring along the ram just in case.
Gerry

From: MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com
From what I remember reading on their web site you can use any 
oil and even mix and match the various refrigerants. In my case I 
had been using 134a and had the ester oil in there. There was 
enough in there to have about 5lbs pressure. I just shook the can 
and then inverted the can and ran it in like it said. I actually 
put in one can last year with the 134a to get the system up to 
cooling right near the end of the summer and it worked just the 
same as the 134a alone. Over the winter most of everything leaked 
out so now I have pretty much just the envirosafe in it. The leak 
seems to be at the fill valve so not having any way to recover 
the stuff I guess I will just have to wait till it leaks out 
again and then replace the valve. I seem to remember having done 
that before but they don't seem to last very long. They do say 
not to put the stuff into a vacuum so maybe you will have to put 
just enough 134a in there to get about 5lbs and then go from 
there. Two cans was just right for mine so you probably don't 
need any more then that. If you want to come over some time I 
have some extra so we can put that in right quick.


Manfred


Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 23:25:22 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

Hi Manfred,
Do you have ester oil in your A/C system or did you flush and 
change it?
I'm thinking of putting Envirosafe in one of mine but wondered if 
oil had to

be
changed since I just flushed the system and put in fresh ester 
oil, a new

compressor. and a new filter unit.  I have a good vacuum pump.
Thanks,
Gerry
P.S.  I have a couple of the ram chips out of a no-name laptop 
that you can

have if the 512s don't work.
Contact me offline if you need them.

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1424 / Virus Database: 2113/4876 - Release Date: 03/17/12



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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Tests this morning would indicate that the compressor clutch is open circuited. 
 Ohmmeter readings are open and applying B+ directly to the connector at the 
compressor yield no response.

Sigh.

I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't have all the 
required tools.  What kind of a job is replacing the compressor on this beast 
like?  It's really stuck in there, but I'm just looking at it from the top.

Also, this is currently an R12 system.  I really don't want to convert it, as 
R134a in these systems just doesn't cut it in this climate.

I have one can of R12, which I am sure will not be enough to charge the system. 
 Can I go with propane and not have to hassle with purging the system and all 
that?

Suggestions are welcome.  I have not yet convinced myself that I want to do 
this, but I don't have any trusted auto AC people around here to work with, 
either...

Thanks,

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread WILTON
I'll try to find and send the pdf if you want.  I've kept both of mine R-12; 
I've been getting the 12 oz. cans from somebody I found on internet (well, 
actually, local refer guy gets 'em for me from guy I found) @ about $27/can, 
I think.  BTW, didn't I get that stuff years ago for 'bout 50 to 75 
cents/can?


I also saw 10-cent fuel (#2) @ $4.05/gal. this morning.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue


Tests this morning would indicate that the compressor clutch is open 
circuited.  Ohmmeter readings are open and applying B+ directly to the 
connector at the compressor yield no response.


Sigh.

I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't have all 
the required tools.  What kind of a job is replacing the compressor on 
this beast like?  It's really stuck in there, but I'm just looking at it 
from the top.


Also, this is currently an R12 system.  I really don't want to convert it, 
as R134a in these systems just doesn't cut it in this climate.


I have one can of R12, which I am sure will not be enough to charge the 
system.  Can I go with propane and not have to hassle with purging the 
system and all that?


Suggestions are welcome.  I have not yet convinced myself that I want to 
do this, but I don't have any trusted auto AC people around here to work 
with, either...


Thanks,

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Dan Penoff
I checked Angie's List for some reputable auto AC places around here and set 
him out to get some estimates.

I would really love to send him to a third generation MB shop (Ledbetters) who 
has forgotten more than any dealer will ever know - Rusty knows these guys and 
can vouch for them - there is no better than these guys.

That being said, they would fix it right, meaning they would go completely 
through it and it would be as new. Only problem is that he would end up having 
more in repairs than the car is worth.

We'll see what the locals say when he gets back. I told him to say nothing 
other than The AC doesn't work.

Dan

On Mar 16, 2012, at 2:50 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 I'll try to find and send the pdf if you want.  I've kept both of mine R-12; 
 I've been getting the 12 oz. cans from somebody I found on internet (well, 
 actually, local refer guy gets 'em for me from guy I found) @ about $27/can, 
 I think.  BTW, didn't I get that stuff years ago for 'bout 50 to 75 cents/can?
 
 I also saw 10-cent fuel (#2) @ $4.05/gal. this morning.
 
 Wilton
 
 - Original Message - From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 10:42 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue
 
 
 Tests this morning would indicate that the compressor clutch is open 
 circuited.  Ohmmeter readings are open and applying B+ directly to the 
 connector at the compressor yield no response.
 
 Sigh.
 
 I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't have all 
 the required tools.  What kind of a job is replacing the compressor on this 
 beast like?  It's really stuck in there, but I'm just looking at it from the 
 top.
 
 Also, this is currently an R12 system.  I really don't want to convert it, 
 as R134a in these systems just doesn't cut it in this climate.
 
 I have one can of R12, which I am sure will not be enough to charge the 
 system.  Can I go with propane and not have to hassle with purging the 
 system and all that?
 
 Suggestions are welcome.  I have not yet convinced myself that I want to do 
 this, but I don't have any trusted auto AC people around here to work with, 
 either...
 
 Thanks,
 
 Dan
 
 
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread MG
Just this morning I put two cans of envirosafe into my 123 AC 
system. It was all but empty so it was just the right amount. I 
am now getting 32 deg at the center vents going down the road. I 
had 134a in there before and was happy to get 40. I forget what I 
paid for the envirosafe but it wasn't anywhere near $27 a can. 
Look for it on the net. I'm sold on it.


Manfred

Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 10:42:47 -0400
From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

Tests this morning would indicate that the compressor clutch is 
open circuited.  Ohmmeter readings are open and applying B+ 
directly to the connector at the compressor yield no response.


Sigh.

I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't 
have all the required tools.  What kind of a job is replacing the 
compressor on this beast like?  It's really stuck in there, but 
I'm just looking at it from the top.


Also, this is currently an R12 system.  I really don't want to 
convert it, as R134a in these systems just doesn't cut it in this 
climate.


I have one can of R12, which I am sure will not be enough to 
charge the system.  Can I go with propane and not have to hassle 
with purging the system and all that?


Suggestions are welcome.  I have not yet convinced myself that I 
want to do this, but I don't have any trusted auto AC people 
around here to work with, either...


Thanks,

Dan




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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Allan Streib
MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com writes:

 Just this morning I put two cans of envirosafe into my 123 AC
 system. It was all but empty so it was just the right amount. I am now
 getting 32 deg at the center vents going down the road. I had 134a in
 there before and was happy to get 40. I forget what I paid for the
 envirosafe but it wasn't anywhere near $27 a can. Look for it on the
 net. I'm sold on it.

Envirosafe is a hyrdrocarbon blend with a scent.  Basically just 
propane/isobutane.


-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Jim Cathey
I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't have 
all the required tools.


So far as I know there's only one special tool, and it's not too
expensive if you find the right one.  Less than cans of refrigerant!
(I made my own, but wish I hadn't had to.)  See:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190dlog.html#clutchtool

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Dan Penoff
That may be true, but in all honesty, I just don't have the time or desire to 
tear into this thing.

If it as something a little less involved, fine, but otherwise I'll let the 
youngster find a rusted indy to sort it out and help him with the cost if 
necessary.

Thanks to all who assisted.  I have a much better understanding of the later AC 
systems now

Dan


On Mar 16, 2012, at 8:41 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

 I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't have all 
 the required tools.
 
 So far as I know there's only one special tool, and it's not too
 expensive if you find the right one.  Less than cans of refrigerant!
 (I made my own, but wish I hadn't had to.)  See:
 
   http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190dlog.html#clutchtool
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Fred Moir

I'll let the youngster find a rusted indy   .
Yes, Rusty's the best.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 3/16/2012 9:00 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

That may be true, but in all honesty, I just don't have the time or desire to 
tear into this thing.

If it as something a little less involved, fine,but otherwise I'll let the 
youngster find a rusted indy to sort it out and help him with the cost if 
necessary.

Thanks to all who assisted.  I have a much better understanding of the later AC 
systems now

Dan
   

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Hey!

Been out in the garage building drawers for the youngest's bureau. I'm tired 
and frustrated

Chuckle.

Dan hitting the showers and going to bed

On Mar 16, 2012, at 9:13 PM, Fred Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

 I'll let the youngster find a rusted indy   .
 Yes, Rusty's the best.
 
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred
 
 
 On 3/16/2012 9:00 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
 That may be true, but in all honesty, I just don't have the time or desire 
 to tear into this thing.
 
 If it as something a little less involved, fine,but otherwise I'll let the 
 youngster find a rusted indy to sort it out and help him with the cost if 
 necessary.
 
 Thanks to all who assisted.  I have a much better understanding of the later 
 AC systems now
 
 Dan
   
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Peter Frederick
A large pair of channel locks will work to hold the clutch to remove  
the bolt.  You also need a pair of snap ring pliers, if I remember  
correctly, but this is NOT a difficult job.


Peter
On Mar 16, 2012, at 8:00 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

That may be true, but in all honesty, I just don't have the time or  
desire to tear into this thing.


If it as something a little less involved, fine, but otherwise I'll  
let the youngster find a rusted indy to sort it out and help him  
with the cost if necessary.


Thanks to all who assisted.  I have a much better understanding of  
the later AC systems now


Dan


On Mar 16, 2012, at 8:41 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't  
have all the required tools.


So far as I know there's only one special tool, and it's not too
expensive if you find the right one.  Less than cans of refrigerant!
(I made my own, but wish I hadn't had to.)  See:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190dlog.html#clutchtool

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-16 Thread Gerry Archer

Hi Manfred,
Do you have ester oil in your A/C system or did you flush and change it?
I'm thinking of putting Envirosafe in one of mine but wondered if oil had to 
be

changed since I just flushed the system and put in fresh ester oil, a new
compressor. and a new filter unit.  I have a good vacuum pump.
Thanks,
Gerry
P.S.  I have a couple of the ram chips out of a no-name laptop that you can
have if the 512s don't work.
Contact me offline if you need them.
...
From: MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue


Just this morning I put two cans of envirosafe into my 123 AC system. It 
was all but empty so it was just the right amount. I am now getting 32 deg 
at the center vents going down the road. I had 134a in there before and 
was happy to get 40. I forget what I paid for the envirosafe but it wasn't 
anywhere near $27 a can. Look for it on the net. I'm sold on it.


Manfred

Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 10:42:47 -0400
From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

Tests this morning would indicate that the compressor clutch is open 
circuited.  Ohmmeter readings are open and applying B+ directly to the 
connector at the compressor yield no response.


Sigh.

I can't see attempting to replace the clutch in car since I don't have all 
the required tools.  What kind of a job is replacing the compressor on 
this beast like?  It's really stuck in there, but I'm just looking at it 
from the top.


Also, this is currently an R12 system.  I really don't want to convert it, 
as R134a in these systems just doesn't cut it in this climate.


I have one can of R12, which I am sure will not be enough to charge the 
system.  Can I go with propane and not have to hassle with purging the 
system and all that?


Suggestions are welcome.  I have not yet convinced myself that I want to 
do this, but I don't have any trusted auto AC people around here to work 
with, either...


Thanks,

Dan




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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-15 Thread Curt Raymond
I can't add much to this other than when I've seen MAS before its Mass Air 
Sensor which measures airflow for the fuel injection system. If thats true on 
this car too it makes sense that the engine dies when its unplugged...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 16:37:02 -0400
From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue
Message-ID: a9c5ec1a-0804-46f1-9f97-a1e2e0f81...@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really use some 
direction:

1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.

Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC related 
functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, that is, fan 
speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the AC compressor.

I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power in the 
harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got nothing.

This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but I 
don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate you 
forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly easier in 
identifying the problem.

If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I would 
expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things like the 
fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as intended, as 
everything else on the car works perfectly.

I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the compressor 
clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial wind.  I would put 
B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is which, and I don't want to 
smoke the speed sensor in the process.

From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the low 
pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch.  That's an educated 
guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses apart, either.  
There are three wires going to a connector on the top of the compressor, two 
of which go off in a separate harness that heads up under the air cleaner. The 
remaining wire goes to one side of the low pressure switch.  I am assuming the 
two that head into the engine harness are for the speed sensor.

Dan


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[MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really use some 
direction:

1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.

Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC related 
functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, that is, fan 
speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the AC compressor.

I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power in the 
harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got nothing.

This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but I 
don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate you 
forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly easier in 
identifying the problem.

If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I would 
expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things like the 
fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as intended, as 
everything else on the car works perfectly.

I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the compressor 
clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial wind.  I would put 
B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is which, and I don't want to 
smoke the speed sensor in the process.

From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the low 
pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch.  That's an educated 
guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses apart, either.  
There are three wires going to a connector on the top of the compressor, two 
of which go off in a separate harness that heads up under the air cleaner. The 
remaining wire goes to one side of the low pressure switch.  I am assuming the 
two that head into the engine harness are for the speed sensor.

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Max
You're very close, if my 124 diesel knowledge applies.  The KLIMA relay 
compares engine speed to compressor speed to decide if the serpentine belt is 
slipping.  Sounds like that signal has been interrupted.  Could be bad speed 
coil on the compressor, bad KLIMA, or bad engine speed pick-up.  Could also be 
bad clutch on the compressor, or bad PBU.  Hard to track down with out knowing 
which wires connect to what.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
All quite possible, however, I have yet to determine that the MAS relay has 
taken the place of the KLIMA relay (which does not exist on this particular 
chassis.)

That's why I really need a schematic.  With that I could at least pin things 
down...

Thanks!

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 5:16 PM, Max wrote:

 You're very close, if my 124 diesel knowledge applies.  The KLIMA relay 
 compares engine speed to compressor speed to decide if the serpentine belt is 
 slipping.  Sounds like that signal has been interrupted.  Could be bad speed 
 coil on the compressor, bad KLIMA, or bad engine speed pick-up.  Could also 
 be bad clutch on the compressor, or bad PBU.  Hard to track down with out 
 knowing which wires connect to what.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead

Read #2 and #3 here
http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm

I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to 
the comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure 
resistance of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 
0 resistance means the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what 
the resistance should be, probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.


You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring 
the voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short 
time, until the system detects the pulley is not turning.


It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe 
they moved the Klima on that model.



OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could 
really use some direction:


1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.

Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC 
related functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as 
expected, that is, fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything 
works but the AC compressor.


I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for 
power in the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to 
ground and got nothing.


This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, 
but I don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really 
appreciate you forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life 
significantly easier in identifying the problem.


If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as 
I would expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of 
things like the fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be 
working as intended, as everything else on the car works perfectly.


I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the 
compressor clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the 
proverbial wind.  I would put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of 
what wire is which, and I don't want to smoke the speed sensor in 
the process.


From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through 
the low pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. 
That's an educated guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not 
tearing harnesses apart, either.  There are three wires going to a 
connector on the top of the compressor, two of which go off in a 
separate harness that heads up under the air cleaner. The remaining 
wire goes to one side of the low pressure switch.  I am assuming the 
two that head into the engine harness are for the speed sensor.


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
I did attempt to check for voltage from the ACC system to the low pressure 
switch and ultimately the compressor clutch, but I turned things on and then 
got over to the connections, so it would have been a good 30 seconds before I 
ever got the Fluke's leads on the connectors.

It's such a small gauge wire, I'm surprised it would provide power to the 
clutch, as it draws a good 3-4 amps, I believe.

I did not attempt to check the resistance of the clutch coil, however, since 
I'm not getting power to  it in the first place, I don't think it's necessarily 
the problem.  I do have the values for it, however (thanks, Wilton!)

Thanks for the suggestions.  I know the 126 chassis ACC well, so I'm not that 
far out of my comfort zone, but this system is definitely different, so 
hopefully someone out there has a diagram...

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Read #2 and #3 here
 http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm
 
 I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
 comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure resistance 
 of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 resistance means 
 the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the resistance should be, 
 probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.
 
 You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
 voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, until 
 the system detects the pulley is not turning.
 
 It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
 moved the Klima on that model.
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
I have found a reference to the MAS and what it does in the AC manual, but they 
use that darned breakout box to do the troubleshooting.

If I could find a schematic I could figure this out in short order, but the 
ones I have been looking at are for older models that use the KLIMA relay and 
not the MAS.

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Read #2 and #3 here
 http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm
 
 I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
 comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure resistance 
 of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 resistance means 
 the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the resistance should be, 
 probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.
 
 You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
 voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, until 
 the system detects the pulley is not turning.
 
 It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
 moved the Klima on that model.
 
 
 OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really use 
 some direction:
 
 1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.
 
 Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC related 
 functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, that is, 
 fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the AC 
 compressor.
 
 I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power in 
 the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got 
 nothing.
 
 This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but I 
 don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate you 
 forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly easier in 
 identifying the problem.
 
 If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I would 
 expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things like the 
 fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as intended, as 
 everything else on the car works perfectly.
 
 I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the compressor 
 clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial wind.  I would 
 put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is which, and I don't want 
 to smoke the speed sensor in the process.
 
 From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the low 
 pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. That's an educated 
 guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses apart, 
 either.  There are three wires going to a connector on the top of the 
 compressor, two of which go off in a separate harness that heads up under 
 the air cleaner. The remaining wire goes to one side of the low pressure 
 switch.  I am assuming the two that head into the engine harness are for the 
 speed sensor.
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread WILTON

Dan,

'Just set you a comp. clutch schematic.  Is it the one you need?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue


I have found a reference to the MAS and what it does in the AC manual, but 
they use that darned breakout box to do the troubleshooting.


If I could find a schematic I could figure this out in short order, but 
the ones I have been looking at are for older models that use the KLIMA 
relay and not the MAS.


Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:


Read #2 and #3 here
http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm

I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure 
resistance of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 
resistance means the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the 
resistance should be, probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.


You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, 
until the system detects the pulley is not turning.


It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
moved the Klima on that model.



OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really 
use some direction:


1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.

Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC 
related functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, 
that is, fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the 
AC compressor.


I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power 
in the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got 
nothing.


This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but 
I don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate 
you forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly 
easier in identifying the problem.


If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I 
would expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things 
like the fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as 
intended, as everything else on the car works perfectly.


I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the 
compressor clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial 
wind.  I would put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is 
which, and I don't want to smoke the speed sensor in the process.


From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the 
low pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. That's an 
educated guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses 
apart, either.  There are three wires going to a connector on the top of 
the compressor, two of which go off in a separate harness that heads up 
under the air cleaner. The remaining wire goes to one side of the low 
pressure switch.  I am assuming the two that head into the engine 
harness are for the speed sensor.


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
Wilton,

It's certainly closer to anything I have seen so far.

What I recall is that the MAS only had four populated sockets (pins) in the 
relay socket, which is why I'm confused by the depiction of at least seven 
connections.

I won't get to see the car again until tomorrow morning, but I'll verify what I 
have against the drawing you sent.  At least that way I might be able to do 
some voltage and continuity checks to narrow things down.

Thanks!

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:14 PM, WILTON wrote:

 Dan,
 
 'Just set you a comp. clutch schematic.  Is it the one you need?
 
 Wilton
 
 - Original Message - From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 7:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue
 
 
 I have found a reference to the MAS and what it does in the AC manual, but 
 they use that darned breakout box to do the troubleshooting.
 
 If I could find a schematic I could figure this out in short order, but the 
 ones I have been looking at are for older models that use the KLIMA relay 
 and not the MAS.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
 
 Read #2 and #3 here
 http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm
 
 I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
 comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure resistance 
 of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 resistance 
 means the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the resistance should 
 be, probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.
 
 You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
 voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, until 
 the system detects the pulley is not turning.
 
 It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
 moved the Klima on that model.
 
 
 OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really use 
 some direction:
 
 1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.
 
 Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC 
 related functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, 
 that is, fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the 
 AC compressor.
 
 I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power 
 in the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got 
 nothing.
 
 This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but I 
 don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate you 
 forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly easier 
 in identifying the problem.
 
 If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I 
 would expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things 
 like the fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as 
 intended, as everything else on the car works perfectly.
 
 I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the compressor 
 clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial wind.  I 
 would put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is which, and I 
 don't want to smoke the speed sensor in the process.
 
 From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the 
 low pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. That's an 
 educated guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses 
 apart, either.  There are three wires going to a connector on the top of 
 the compressor, two of which go off in a separate harness that heads up 
 under the air cleaner. The remaining wire goes to one side of the low 
 pressure switch.  I am assuming the two that head into the engine harness 
 are for the speed sensor.
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead
That is too long.  Hook it up so that you can see the readout, then 
turn on the switch.  the old mechanical VOMS were good for this 
because you'd see the needle start up, then go back to 0.  It will 
only be a blip.


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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Jim Cathey

Compressor clutch coils can go bad, they're in a harsh
environment.  Connectors thereto, also.  But it sounds
KLIMA-ish to me.  The WOT switch can affect the AC too.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dave in SoCal
So, no Klima on Dan's model.

The linked post below makes it appear that the MAS may control A/C functions.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showpost.php?p=126705postcount=13

Post #4 here, says something different:
http://mbworld.org/forums/190e-w201/48220-c-compressor-relay-92-190e-2-6-a.html

Hmmm...

if one of these relays is taking over some Klima functions, I wonder (shooting 
from the hip) if it works like the Klima does on my '85 W123… 
if freon pressure is lost, a pressure switch tells the Klima to turn off the 
compressor solenoid, saving the compressor from damage.

I know they changed the configuration and function of this thing many, many 
times but here's my schematic (all I can find)… maybe it'll jog a memory or 
point to a possibility until the real schematic appears.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GMQYuBJUv3hTB_4vilWnuB_L548h0FhsE9Lwz-quTRM?feat=directlink

Dave
SoCal


For completion, according to the manual the two other functions on a 1985 W123 
Klima are:
(1) when the engine is started, the relay keeps the compressor solenoid off 
until 10 seconds after the engine speed has reached 600 RPM. This improves 
engine speed stabilization after startup.
(2) with engine speed less than 1050 RPM, when the accelerator is floored, the 
compressor solenoid is released until the engine reaches 2150 RPM or the 
accelerator is released. This function is controlled by a microswitch on the 
valve cover.


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:22 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

 Compressor clutch coils can go bad, they're in a harsh
 environment.  Connectors thereto, also.  But it sounds
 KLIMA-ish to me.  The WOT switch can affect the AC too.
 
 -- Jim


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