Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

The little shock absorber was rarely bad from what I recall, not to mention 
that it was pricey, too.

In my oft-occurring nit-pickyness I replaced it once and found no difference in 
the way the car felt afterwards.

Dan

> On Sep 6, 2015, at 5:51 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Great comments, thanks all.  I forgot about the little shock absorber 
> thingie(s), I should get that too.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

[Rich Thomas via Mercedes]

Great comments, thanks all.  I forgot about the little shock absorber 
thingie(s), I should get that too.


--R



On 9/5/15 5:59 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

As memory serves, you also need to disconnect the little anti shake shock 
absorbers near the oil pan.  All of my mount screws were metric socket head set 
screws so you'll want quality metric allen hex bits for your 3/8 inch ratchet 
set.  Be sure the allen hex goes all the way into the screw head hole (which 
may require cleaning dirt out of the hole with a pick).  You really don't want 
to round out one of these hex sockets because a bit was only part-way inserted. 
 You can't go wrong by pre-treating the screws with penetrating oil.  You will 
also want a good assortment of extensions to position the ratchet handle where 
you can reach it for the topside screws.  Watch for possible interference when 
you jack the engine and use a block of wood to protect the oil pan.  It only 
needs to lift enough to get the now mount in place.  On re-assembly,  the last 
bottom screw is always hard to get aligned; a helper can be enormously useful 
at this step.  I found this job easy on the NA 617 engine but more frustrating 
on the turbo version.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Penoff via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2015 3:06 PM
To: Okie Benz <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Dan Penoff <d...@penoff.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

The W126 chassis is a little different from the W140, but not much.

I can’t recall if the lower bolts are regular 13mm heads or if they had socket
head cap screws like the W123 - I’m sure someone here knows.  Definitely do
one side at a time - it makes it a lot easier to align things.

The W126 is pretty much like this:

1.) Remove the lower bolts (2 -13mm or 5mm socket head cap screws)

2.) Remove the upper bolt (17mm)

3.) Release fan shroud - does not have to be removed.

4.) Place jack with block of wood under oil pan and lift the engine gently.
You’ll see the engine stop moving after a few good pumps.

5.) Get back underneath the car and remove the mount. Make note of the
orientation.  Don’t forget the heat shield if there is one.

6.) Get the new mount in position and place heat shield on top, making note
of the tank that sticks out and the hole it indexes into the heat shield.

7.) Place the top mount bolt back in the engine support.  It won’t line up yet.

8.) Carefully lower the engine so the engine support is touching the top of the
mount.  Get the top bolt started.  You may have to move the engine around a
little bit to get it to line up.  Be sure not to cross thread the bolt.

9.) Once the top bolt is in place and started, lower the jack completely.

10.) Try the lower bolts.  One may not line up.  You can use a flat bladed
screwdriver to move the mount around to get the remaining bolt lined up.
Don’t cross thread these - it’s easy to do (don’t ask me how I know this.)

11.) Tighten all three bolts.  Move on to the other side.


It’s one of those brute force sorts of jobs.  Takes some “goomph” but not a lot
of finesse.  Be sure to buy genuine MB or Lemforder mounts.  Anything else
will collapse in a year.

Dan





On Sep 5, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes

<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I've got to replace the mounts on one of the SDs.  I vaguely recall you have to

put a jack under the oil pan or somewhere to lift it a bit, then do something to
get the old ones out and the new in.  Any memories of that job, anyone?  I
have a pair in the garage somewhere that came with the other SD that seems
OK for now.

--R



On 9/5/15 10:40 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Just finished this job, second time I’ve done it, first time was on the S500

coupe, this time on the 1994 S420.

I bought the special offset wrench for removing the top mount bolt, as it’s

buried under the manifolds.  Best $15 I ever spent for a special tool for this 
job.
It made it go much faster.  I did the passenger (easy) side in about 20 minutes,
the driver’s side (difficult) in about 40.

Now I’m heading back out to put the transmission mount in.  Pretty easy

job on the W140.  I’m getting the nasty stuff out of the way early today, then
it’s time to spend sorting out the pneumatics.  Tomorrow it will be R of the
right front caliper on the oldest boy’s 98 S420.  It’s got a stuck piston.  
I’ve got a
reman caliper waiting in the wings for it.

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

The W126 chassis is a little different from the W140, but not much.

I can’t recall if the lower bolts are regular 13mm heads or if they had socket 
head cap screws like the W123 - I’m sure someone here knows.  Definitely do one 
side at a time - it makes it a lot easier to align things.

The W126 is pretty much like this:

1.) Remove the lower bolts (2 -13mm or 5mm socket head cap screws)

2.) Remove the upper bolt (17mm)

3.) Release fan shroud - does not have to be removed.

4.) Place jack with block of wood under oil pan and lift the engine gently.  
You’ll see the engine stop moving after a few good pumps.

5.) Get back underneath the car and remove the mount. Make note of the 
orientation.  Don’t forget the heat shield if there is one.

6.) Get the new mount in position and place heat shield on top, making note of 
the tank that sticks out and the hole it indexes into the heat shield.

7.) Place the top mount bolt back in the engine support.  It won’t line up yet.

8.) Carefully lower the engine so the engine support is touching the top of the 
mount.  Get the top bolt started.  You may have to move the engine around a 
little bit to get it to line up.  Be sure not to cross thread the bolt.

9.) Once the top bolt is in place and started, lower the jack completely.

10.) Try the lower bolts.  One may not line up.  You can use a flat bladed 
screwdriver to move the mount around to get the remaining bolt lined up.  Don’t 
cross thread these - it’s easy to do (don’t ask me how I know this.)

11.) Tighten all three bolts.  Move on to the other side.


It’s one of those brute force sorts of jobs.  Takes some “goomph” but not a lot 
of finesse.  Be sure to buy genuine MB or Lemforder mounts.  Anything else will 
collapse in a year.

Dan




> On Sep 5, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I've got to replace the mounts on one of the SDs.  I vaguely recall you have 
> to put a jack under the oil pan or somewhere to lift it a bit, then do 
> something to get the old ones out and the new in.  Any memories of that job, 
> anyone?  I have a pair in the garage somewhere that came with the other SD 
> that seems OK for now.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
> 
> On 9/5/15 10:40 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
>> Just finished this job, second time I’ve done it, first time was on the S500 
>> coupe, this time on the 1994 S420.
>> 
>> I bought the special offset wrench for removing the top mount bolt, as it’s 
>> buried under the manifolds.  Best $15 I ever spent for a special tool for 
>> this job.  It made it go much faster.  I did the passenger (easy) side in 
>> about 20 minutes, the driver’s side (difficult) in about 40.
>> 
>> Now I’m heading back out to put the transmission mount in.  Pretty easy job 
>> on the W140.  I’m getting the nasty stuff out of the way early today, then 
>> it’s time to spend sorting out the pneumatics.  Tomorrow it will be R of 
>> the right front caliper on the oldest boy’s 98 S420.  It’s got a stuck 
>> piston.  I’ve got a reman caliper waiting in the wings for it.
>> 
>> Dan
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


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[MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

[WILTON via Mercedes]

I simply wrote a check to the indie to replace 'em in my SDL several years 
ago.  'Not as good a feeling of accomplishment, but certainly made the car 
more enjoyable.  'Same for the 124 when I got it 11 years ago.  I normally 
would have done 'em myself, but it was already getting a lot harder for me 
to do that stuff.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>

To: <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: "Rich Thomas" <richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2015 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts


I've got to replace the mounts on one of the SDs.  I vaguely recall you 
have to put a jack under the oil pan or somewhere to lift it a bit, then 
do something to get the old ones out and the new in.  Any memories of that 
job, anyone?  I have a pair in the garage somewhere that came with the 
other SD that seems OK for now.


--R



On 9/5/15 10:40 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
Just finished this job, second time I’ve done it, first time was on the 
S500 coupe, this time on the 1994 S420.


I bought the special offset wrench for removing the top mount bolt, as it’s 
buried under the manifolds.  Best $15 I ever spent for a special tool for 
this job.  It made it go much faster.  I did the passenger (easy) side in 
about 20 minutes, the driver’s side (difficult) in about 40.


Now I’m heading back out to put the transmission mount in.  Pretty easy 
job on the W140.  I’m getting the nasty stuff out of the way early today, 
then it’s time to spend sorting out the pneumatics.  Tomorrow it will be 
R of the right front caliper on the oldest boy’s 98 S420.  It’s got a 
stuck piston.  I’ve got a reman caliper waiting in the wings for it.


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

OM617, right?  I think the first step is to loosen the top and bottom bolts on 
each mount, then raise the engine by jack with a big piece of wood supporting 
the oil pan.  There may be heat shields and stuff (exhaust?) to remove prior.  
From foggy memory, get the new mounts top bolt going first, then from below get 
the bottom bolts started, then lower the engine into place, rock it a bit to 
settle the mounts, and tighten them down.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On September 5, 2015 2:38:40 PM EDT, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>I've got to replace the mounts on one of the SDs.  I vaguely recall you
>
>have to put a jack under the oil pan or somewhere to lift it a bit,
>then 
>do something to get the old ones out and the new in.  Any memories of 
>that job, anyone?  I have a pair in the garage somewhere that came with
>
>the other SD that seems OK for now.
>
>--R
>
>
>
>On 9/5/15 10:40 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
>> Just finished this job, second time I’ve done it, first time was on
>the S500 coupe, this time on the 1994 S420.
>>
>> I bought the special offset wrench for removing the top mount bolt,
>as it’s buried under the manifolds.  Best $15 I ever spent for a
>special tool for this job.  It made it go much faster.  I did the
>passenger (easy) side in about 20 minutes, the driver’s side
>(difficult) in about 40.
>>
>> Now I’m heading back out to put the transmission mount in.  Pretty
>easy job on the W140.  I’m getting the nasty stuff out of the way early
>today, then it’s time to spend sorting out the pneumatics.  Tomorrow it
>will be R of the right front caliper on the oldest boy’s 98 S420. 
>It’s got a stuck piston.  I’ve got a reman caliper waiting in the wings
>for it.
>>
>> Dan
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

[Rich Thomas via Mercedes]

I've got to replace the mounts on one of the SDs.  I vaguely recall you 
have to put a jack under the oil pan or somewhere to lift it a bit, then 
do something to get the old ones out and the new in.  Any memories of 
that job, anyone?  I have a pair in the garage somewhere that came with 
the other SD that seems OK for now.


--R



On 9/5/15 10:40 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Just finished this job, second time I’ve done it, first time was on the S500 
coupe, this time on the 1994 S420.

I bought the special offset wrench for removing the top mount bolt, as it’s 
buried under the manifolds.  Best $15 I ever spent for a special tool for this 
job.  It made it go much faster.  I did the passenger (easy) side in about 20 
minutes, the driver’s side (difficult) in about 40.

Now I’m heading back out to put the transmission mount in.  Pretty easy job on the 
W140.  I’m getting the nasty stuff out of the way early today, then it’s time to 
spend sorting out the pneumatics.  Tomorrow it will be R of the right front 
caliper on the oldest boy’s 98 S420.  It’s got a stuck piston.  I’ve got a reman 
caliper waiting in the wings for it.

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

As memory serves, you also need to disconnect the little anti shake shock 
absorbers near the oil pan.  All of my mount screws were metric socket head set 
screws so you'll want quality metric allen hex bits for your 3/8 inch ratchet 
set.  Be sure the allen hex goes all the way into the screw head hole (which 
may require cleaning dirt out of the hole with a pick).  You really don't want 
to round out one of these hex sockets because a bit was only part-way inserted. 
 You can't go wrong by pre-treating the screws with penetrating oil.  You will 
also want a good assortment of extensions to position the ratchet handle where 
you can reach it for the topside screws.  Watch for possible interference when 
you jack the engine and use a block of wood to protect the oil pan.  It only 
needs to lift enough to get the now mount in place.  On re-assembly,  the last 
bottom screw is always hard to get aligned; a helper can be enormously useful 
at this step.  I found this job easy on the NA 617 engine but more frustrating 
on the turbo version.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dan
> Penoff via Mercedes
> Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2015 3:06 PM
> To: Okie Benz <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Dan Penoff <d...@penoff.com>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing W126 Motor Mounts
> 
> The W126 chassis is a little different from the W140, but not much.
> 
> I can’t recall if the lower bolts are regular 13mm heads or if they had socket
> head cap screws like the W123 - I’m sure someone here knows.  Definitely do
> one side at a time - it makes it a lot easier to align things.
> 
> The W126 is pretty much like this:
> 
> 1.) Remove the lower bolts (2 -13mm or 5mm socket head cap screws)
> 
> 2.) Remove the upper bolt (17mm)
> 
> 3.) Release fan shroud - does not have to be removed.
> 
> 4.) Place jack with block of wood under oil pan and lift the engine gently.
> You’ll see the engine stop moving after a few good pumps.
> 
> 5.) Get back underneath the car and remove the mount. Make note of the
> orientation.  Don’t forget the heat shield if there is one.
> 
> 6.) Get the new mount in position and place heat shield on top, making note
> of the tank that sticks out and the hole it indexes into the heat shield.
> 
> 7.) Place the top mount bolt back in the engine support.  It won’t line up 
> yet.
> 
> 8.) Carefully lower the engine so the engine support is touching the top of 
> the
> mount.  Get the top bolt started.  You may have to move the engine around a
> little bit to get it to line up.  Be sure not to cross thread the bolt.
> 
> 9.) Once the top bolt is in place and started, lower the jack completely.
> 
> 10.) Try the lower bolts.  One may not line up.  You can use a flat bladed
> screwdriver to move the mount around to get the remaining bolt lined up.
> Don’t cross thread these - it’s easy to do (don’t ask me how I know this.)
> 
> 11.) Tighten all three bolts.  Move on to the other side.
> 
> 
> It’s one of those brute force sorts of jobs.  Takes some “goomph” but not a 
> lot
> of finesse.  Be sure to buy genuine MB or Lemforder mounts.  Anything else
> will collapse in a year.
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Sep 5, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I've got to replace the mounts on one of the SDs.  I vaguely recall you 
> > have to
> put a jack under the oil pan or somewhere to lift it a bit, then do something 
> to
> get the old ones out and the new in.  Any memories of that job, anyone?  I
> have a pair in the garage somewhere that came with the other SD that seems
> OK for now.
> >
> > --R
> >
> >
> >
> > On 9/5/15 10:40 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
> >> Just finished this job, second time I’ve done it, first time was on the 
> >> S500
> coupe, this time on the 1994 S420.
> >>
> >> I bought the special offset wrench for removing the top mount bolt, as it’s
> buried under the manifolds.  Best $15 I ever spent for a special tool for 
> this job.
> It made it go much faster.  I did the passenger (easy) side in about 20 
> minutes,
> the driver’s side (difficult) in about 40.
> >>
> >> Now I’m heading back out to put the transmission mount in.  Pretty easy
> job on the W140.  I’m getting the nasty stuff out of the way early today, then
> it’s time to spend sorting out the pneumatics.  Tomorrow it will be R of the
> right front caliper on the oldest boy’s 98 S420.  It’s got a stuck piston.  
> I’ve got a
> reman caliper waiting in the wings for it.
> >>
> >> Dan
> >> ___
> >>