[neonixie-l] Re: Manuel Azevedo - 1977-2018

[M.J.Sangster]

He will be missed!

- Michael Sangster

On Sunday, August 12, 2018 at 7:12:55 PM UTC-5, Jeff Walton wrote:
>
> Our group has lost a friend. *Manuel Azevedo* 
> 
>  
> passed away suddenly on July 16th, at the age of 41, while on vacation with 
> his family. We know Manuel as a fellow nixie enthusiast and the creator of 
> the NWTS - NTP sync over Wi-Fi stand alone device.
>
>
> Manuel was a talented engineer in the networking field, a fellow nixie 
> enthusiast and friend to a number of us that will be missed by those that 
> had worked and shared with him in this and other forums. He leaves behind a 
> wife and family. 
>
>  
>
> This information was supplied by a friend of Manuel's family.
>
>
> *http://www.azevedo-devices.com/* 
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Solitube Kit PDF Assembly Guide

[M.J.Sangster]

Here is the link to the PDF instruction file, 

http://www.daliborfarny.com/sites/default/files/upload/solitube_manual.pdf


I put the kit together last year, nice looking clock!




On Friday, February 27, 2015 at 12:43:44 PM UTC-6, Jon D. wrote:

 I've tried to contact Dalibor this morning early (my time) over email 
 regarding the subject PDF file, but he may be busy or off somewhere. And I 
 looked on his various sites and googled as well, bit so far no joy.

 Does anyone have a copy of the Solitube Kit PDF Assembly Guide that they 
 could send me?  I wanted to get started on my kit today now that my wife is 
 out of town and I have the weekend to work on it (and hopefully surprise 
 her), and then I realized I didn't have the PDF.

 Thanks,

 Jon



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[neonixie-l] Re: Just got 80 new Burroughs PIXIE B-9012 tubes, if any interest

[M.J.Sangster]

I'm also interested, depending on price.

Thanks,

Michael Sangster

On Monday, October 20, 2014 4:06:34 PM UTC-5, Walter2 wrote:

 These are the same glass diameter as the common B-5092/8421 nixies (not as 
 tall), but instead have a circle of 10 digits on the face, 0-9 clockwise, 
 with zero at the top. 

 Unlike Nixies, more than one digit can be on at the same time (if cathode 
 resistors are used, rather than a common anode resistor).  They need only 
 +150VDC, and very little current.  The digit is small, but the appearance 
 is very interesting, like a Dekatron, but with digits rather than dots. I 
 don't ever recall seeing them used in any commercial gear, but presumably 
 they did appear someplace, maybe another list member has that info.  They 
 can be used as status displays to show up to 10 data items at the same 
 time. They can almost be used as a single tube for hours as well, because 
 two digits can be on at one time (1+0 to show 10, but NOT 1+1 to show 11, 
 1+2 to show 12, for example), a novel and more clock-face-like 
 appearance, but not really ideal. 

 The base is a non-standard 13 pin (3 center pins, outer circle of 10), so 
 I have no hope for sockets, but clearly loose pins will work fine to a 
 PCB.  Because the numbers appear to race around the outer diameter of the 
 tube when cycled, they would provide very attractive seconds/minutes 
 displays in clocks. Driving is dead simple, ground the cathode to light, 
 just as with regular Nixies, but less current is required (larger 
 resistor).  Because more than one can be on at a time, fading is possible 
 to enhance motion. There are also simliar tubes from Philips in europe, but 
 their drive is quite complex, and they are not interchangeable with these. 

 Anyway, I will have them posted up to Sphere Research shortly, or you can 
 just email me for more details. I have the factory data sheet as well, and 
 I will email the PDF to anybody interested.  They will be quite cheap, but 
 there's only this one single batch available, no more stock after this, and 
 frankly I was surprised to get these. The appearance of this batch is 
 excellent.

 all the best,
 walter ( walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca )
 sphere research corp. ( www.sphere.bc.ca )


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[neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

No, those are IN-8/IN-2 Russian tube sockets glued to a acrylic plate.


On Thursday, October 23, 2014 3:51:07 PM UTC-5, alex nolan wrote:

 Did you create those sockets for the tubes yourself?

 On Monday, October 20, 2014 9:46:31 AM UTC-4, M.J.Sangster wrote:

 A quick update, the Microboard is now running a 100 hour endurance test 
 using IN-8 tubes. Attached are a few pictures showing my proto board using 
 a wire harness to 6 IN-8 tubes.

 - Michael Sangster
 Cold War Creations

 On Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:06:53 PM UTC-5, M.J.Sangster wrote:

 I'm planning on building and possibly selling a micro nixie controller 
 board. The idea is to create the smallest possible Nixie controller board 
 that can drive 6 Nixies (3x2 multiplexing). 


 I am posting this to see if the feature set of the board makes sense, or 
 if I am missing anything.

 Here is a link to preliminary information:

 Micro Nixie Controller Board 
 http://www.coldwarcreations.com/microboard/microboard.html

 Thanks!




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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie Clock Cool Project- a few questions

[M.J.Sangster]

My guess is the heat is coming from the 7805 - they tend to generate heat 
with even modest current draw. I believe a simple linear voltage regulator 
is around 40% efficient - the rest goes to heat. The circuit uses 2 74141 
type IC's, they draw a lot of current. If it was a problem (too much heat) 
the regulator would shutdown.

The power supply looks good, I'm guessing neither the FET or the inductor 
even get warm.

M.J. Sangster

On Tuesday, October 7, 2014 8:18:59 PM UTC-5, Dman777 wrote:

 I have a 6 digit Nixie ZM5660 clock that I got from pvelectronics that is 
 beautiful and super cool. Everything is perfect about it. However, since it 
 is multiplexed there is one spot that has a very high concentration of 
 heat. I want to place a fan underneath the clock to draw out this hot air, 
 otherwise the life of the clock will not be as long as it will without the 
 heat. 

 I will be taking dremel and drilling a large area underneath the case and 
 placing a fan against the case surface(outside of the case) to draw out the 
 hot air. I will then wire the 12v fan to the power supply connectors. When 
 done, I will be placing the clock case on two blocks so there will be about 
 3 inches of area between the bottom of the clock(with the fan) and the 
 shelf it sits on. I addition, I will drill some small holes for cool air 
 intake on the sides and on top. 

 A few questions come to mind, please:

 1) The case is only 3/4 of inch deep. Should I go for a 2 inch fan or 1 
 inch fan? Typically, a 2 inch fan will draw more heat out. But since* 
 there will only be able 3/8 of space between the fan and circuit board*, 
 I am not sure which would be more effective in drawing heat out.

 2) The source of heat is in the center middle of the clock. If I place the 
 middle of the fan directly underneath the heat concentration, will that 
 heat just sit since it won't be above the blades but instead above the 
 rotor? Should the fan be off center to the actual heat concentration?

 3) I would like a fan with a good ratio of not to loud but move enough 
 heat out. Not sure which would be a good cfm.

 4) I don't understand why, the heat concentration is in the dead center of 
 the clock, but the source of what I think is the source of the heat...the 
 7805 voltage regulator... is of to the side of the source of the heat 
 concentration area. 

 5) Do I need to worry about trace erosion from air flow and friction? On 
 my old Xbox I had the fan running high in it and one of the traces eroded.

 Here are some of the fans(Would like to stick with ball bearing) I have 
 been looking at. I am big fan of Sunon:
 1 inch:

 http://www.jameco.com/1/1/2967-kde1203pfb2-8-ms-dc-brushless-tubeaxial-fan-bearing-type-ball.html

 http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_1708465_-1

 2 inch:

 http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?refineValue=BallrefineType=1langId=-1position=1productId=1950446refine=1catalogId=10001history=6fqaemmj%7CsubCategoryName~DC%2BBrushless%2BFans%5Ecategory~3715%5EcategoryName~cat_37%5EprodPage~15%5Epage~SEARCH%252BNAV%401bnairch%7Ccategory~371530%5EcategoryName~cat_3715%5Eposition~1%5Erefine~1%5EsubCategoryName~DC%2BBrushless%2BFans%2B%252F%2B2.00%2522%2B%252850mm%2529%5EprodPage~15%5Epage~SEARCH%252BNAV%40dnogx9g3%7CrefineValue~SUNON%5ErefineType~1%5Eposition~1%5Esub_attr_name~Manufacturer%5Erefine~1%5EprodPage~15%5Epage~SEARCH%252BNAVsub_attr_name=BearingstoreId=10001ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

 Thanks,
 -Darin














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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie Clock Cool Project- a few questions

[M.J.Sangster]

It would be interesting to see which component is generating the heat. 
Dman777?

On Tuesday, October 7, 2014 8:18:59 PM UTC-5, Dman777 wrote:

 I have a 6 digit Nixie ZM5660 clock that I got from pvelectronics that is 
 beautiful and super cool. Everything is perfect about it. However, since it 
 is multiplexed there is one spot that has a very high concentration of 
 heat. I want to place a fan underneath the clock to draw out this hot air, 
 otherwise the life of the clock will not be as long as it will without the 
 heat. 

 I will be taking dremel and drilling a large area underneath the case and 
 placing a fan against the case surface(outside of the case) to draw out the 
 hot air. I will then wire the 12v fan to the power supply connectors. When 
 done, I will be placing the clock case on two blocks so there will be about 
 3 inches of area between the bottom of the clock(with the fan) and the 
 shelf it sits on. I addition, I will drill some small holes for cool air 
 intake on the sides and on top. 

 A few questions come to mind, please:

 1) The case is only 3/4 of inch deep. Should I go for a 2 inch fan or 1 
 inch fan? Typically, a 2 inch fan will draw more heat out. But since* 
 there will only be able 3/8 of space between the fan and circuit board*, 
 I am not sure which would be more effective in drawing heat out.

 2) The source of heat is in the center middle of the clock. If I place the 
 middle of the fan directly underneath the heat concentration, will that 
 heat just sit since it won't be above the blades but instead above the 
 rotor? Should the fan be off center to the actual heat concentration?

 3) I would like a fan with a good ratio of not to loud but move enough 
 heat out. Not sure which would be a good cfm.

 4) I don't understand why, the heat concentration is in the dead center of 
 the clock, but the source of what I think is the source of the heat...the 
 7805 voltage regulator... is of to the side of the source of the heat 
 concentration area. 

 5) Do I need to worry about trace erosion from air flow and friction? On 
 my old Xbox I had the fan running high in it and one of the traces eroded.

 Here are some of the fans(Would like to stick with ball bearing) I have 
 been looking at. I am big fan of Sunon:
 1 inch:

 http://www.jameco.com/1/1/2967-kde1203pfb2-8-ms-dc-brushless-tubeaxial-fan-bearing-type-ball.html

 http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_1708465_-1

 2 inch:

 http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?refineValue=BallrefineType=1langId=-1position=1productId=1950446refine=1catalogId=10001history=6fqaemmj%7CsubCategoryName~DC%2BBrushless%2BFans%5Ecategory~3715%5EcategoryName~cat_37%5EprodPage~15%5Epage~SEARCH%252BNAV%401bnairch%7Ccategory~371530%5EcategoryName~cat_3715%5Eposition~1%5Erefine~1%5EsubCategoryName~DC%2BBrushless%2BFans%2B%252F%2B2.00%2522%2B%252850mm%2529%5EprodPage~15%5Epage~SEARCH%252BNAV%40dnogx9g3%7CrefineValue~SUNON%5ErefineType~1%5Eposition~1%5Esub_attr_name~Manufacturer%5Erefine~1%5EprodPage~15%5Epage~SEARCH%252BNAVsub_attr_name=BearingstoreId=10001ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

 Thanks,
 -Darin














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[neonixie-l] Re: Ha ha ha, boy they weren't kidding, IN-14s suck pretty hard (I built a clock with them (n/t)

[M.J.Sangster]

I like the IN-14's, they have a different look, I like the '5'. My glass 
clocks use either IN-8-2's or IN-14's. The IN-8-2's are more popular - but 
I like the looks of the IN-14's, especially the fine grid version.

They are very reliable too. I agree about the IN-16's, lot of failures.

- Michael Sangster
www.coldwarcreations.com

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:43:51 AM UTC-5, michael ohara wrote:

 Ha ha ha, boy they weren't kidding, IN-14s suck pretty hard (I built a 
 clock with them (n/t)


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[neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

Ron,

I have the board design complete and I am currently testing the software - 
I like to make sure the software gets a complete test, which takes a little 
time.

Next week I will launch a Kick Start program so I can build a decent 
quantity of boards at a low price.

I'll keep you informed.

- Michael Sangster

I have a more up to date thread on tube clock database 
(http://www.tubeclockdb.com/forum/Builders-Forum/5153-Tiny-universal-clock-PCB.html).

On Thursday, February 13, 2014 5:43:51 PM UTC-6, blkadder wrote:

 Hey Michael,
 I was sniffing around the board, and remembered I starred this project.  I 
 know this may be a zombie thread, but I am curious if you have made any 
 progress with this one.  I have an Ardruinx that I would love to add a GPS 
 function to the clock.

 Thanks for any updates.

 Ron

 On Tuesday, May 21, 2013 4:06:53 PM UTC-4, M.J.Sangster wrote:

 I'm planning on building and possibly selling a micro nixie controller 
 board. The idea is to create the smallest possible Nixie controller board 
 that can drive 6 Nixies (3x2 multiplexing).

 I am posting this to see if the feature set of the board makes sense, or 
 if I am missing anything.

 Here is a link to preliminary information:

 Micro Nixie Controller 
 Boardhttp://www.coldwarcreations.com/microboard/microboard.html

 Thanks!




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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

Eric,

The thread started on the tube clock database forum that I put on my 
previous post.

I have a link to more info on the board here: 
www.coldwarcreations.com/microboard/microboard.html This sums up the board, 
and I will post more info on the site next week.

I will post the Kick start info on this forum and the tube clock database 
forum.

- Michael

On Friday, February 14, 2014 9:00:38 AM UTC-6, Tidak Ada wrote:

  Hi Michael,
  
 Please can you give me more information on that board? Especially a link 
 to the thread where it started, but other interesting threads and other 
 information is of course also welcome.
  
 Do you announce the publication on Kick-Start here on this forum?
  
 eric

  --
 *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
 neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *M.J.Sangster
 *Sent:* vrijdag 14 februari 2014 15:49
 *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

  Ron, 

 I have the board design complete and I am currently testing the software - 
 I like to make sure the software gets a complete test, which takes a little 
 time.

 Next week I will launch a Kick Start program so I can build a decent 
 quantity of boards at a low price.

 I'll keep you informed.

 - Michael Sangster

 I have a more up to date thread on tube clock database (
 http://www.tubeclockdb.com/forum/Builders-Forum/5153-Tiny-universal-clock-PCB.html
 ).

 On Thursday, February 13, 2014 5:43:51 PM UTC-6, blkadder wrote: 

 Hey Michael,
 I was sniffing around the board, and remembered I starred this project.  
 I know this may be a zombie thread, but I am curious if you have made any 
 progress with this one.  I have an Ardruinx that I would love to add a GPS 
 function to the clock.

 Thanks for any updates.

 Ron

 On Tuesday, May 21, 2013 4:06:53 PM UTC-4, M.J.Sangster wrote: 

 I'm planning on building and possibly selling a micro nixie controller 
 board. The idea is to create the smallest possible Nixie controller board 
 that can drive 6 Nixies (3x2 multiplexing). 

 I am posting this to see if the feature set of the board makes sense, or 
 if I am missing anything.

 Here is a link to preliminary information:

 Micro Nixie Controller 
 Boardhttp://www.coldwarcreations.com/microboard/microboard.html

 Thanks!


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[neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

Quick update on the universal clock PCB, MicroBoard1:

1. Received the proto board, successfully built the board.
2. Tested power supply, working with 180v @ 11mA, 83% efficient.
3. Micro was successfully programmed. (tested program connection and power 
to micro).
4. Prelim software complete (6 digit clock, no GPS).

Next steps:

1. Build harness with 6 IN-8 tubes and sockets for testing.
2. Test software.
3. Add GPS support to software. I'm using Adafruit GPS (Adafruit Ultimate 
GPS Breakout: www.adafruit.com/products/746), others probably will work, 
too.

Revisions/additions for production board:

1. Change 8 pin I/O connector to 10 pin I/O connector (board size stays the 
same). Better I/O options, especially with GPS present.

2. Design piggy back boards for the MicroBoard1: IN-17, B5750: 6 digit 
clock boards with optional GPS.

- Michael Sangster

Cold War Creations

On Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:06:53 PM UTC-5, M.J.Sangster wrote:

 I'm planning on building and possibly selling a micro nixie controller 
 board. The idea is to create the smallest possible Nixie controller board 
 that can drive 6 Nixies (3x2 multiplexing).

 I am posting this to see if the feature set of the board makes sense, or 
 if I am missing anything.

 Here is a link to preliminary information:

 Micro Nixie Controller 
 Boardhttp://www.coldwarcreations.com/microboard/microboard.html

 Thanks!




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[neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

My board will support GPS input - I have the necessary pins (Rx, Tx) to 
 talk to a GPS module. It will be an option with the board.


 

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[neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

I'm freezing my design, and have uploaded a revised preliminary overview of 
the board on:

Micro Nixie board prelim 
specshttp://www.coldwarcreations.com/microboard/microboard.html

The next step is to order a proto board and begin testing. My software is 
about 90% complete (need to write GPS support and 4 digit clock support 
next).

I'll keep everyone informed of my progress.

- Michael Sangster
 
Cold War Creations http://www.coldwarcreations.com

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[neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

I gave the 0.1 connectors some thought, and here is what I have come up 
with:

1. The reason I went with 2mm spacing connectors is to meet the small board 
size requested with many features (GPS, 6 digits, analog inputs, etc). The 
26 pin 0.1 is too big for this application.
2. The cost of 2mm connectors seems to be about the same if not lower than 
the 0.1
3. However, I understand why you want 0.1 connectors - proto boards.

I have thought of a solution that I can offer as an accessory when the 
board is ready for sale. I could build an adapter that would be a small 
circuit card with a 2mm spaced headers on one side, and 0.1 connectors on 
the other side (the 2 0.1 connectors would be spaced so as to fit into a 
0.1 proto board. It would not be bigger than the micro board, and have a 
low profile.

Or a cable with a 0.1 connector on one end, and the other side could have 
the wires soldered to the micro nixie board instead of a 2mm connector.

Would this work?


On Thursday, May 23, 2013 2:32:56 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote:

 I still want to push for the 0.1 spacing on contacts as that makes it 
 possible to use the card with a prototype board on top, making a sandwich 
 construction like the arduino shield - having 2mm pitch makes that 
 impossible as there are almost no prototype boards that have 2mm pitch.
  
 /Martin


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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

 I'm not sure if I could fit the 26 pin 0.1 connector, it would fit length 
 wise, but may increase my board width. The problem is the 8 pin connector - 
 I could do it if I went to a 4 layer board, but still would have to 
 increase the length.


My original connector selection for the I/O was a Molex pico blade (1.25mm 
centers), I use those on my Glass Nixie clock, but you really need the $300 
crimper for that connector.

 

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[neonixie-l] Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

I'm planning on building and possibly selling a micro nixie controller 
board. The idea is to create the smallest possible Nixie controller board 
that can drive 6 Nixies (3x2 multiplexing).

I am posting this to see if the feature set of the board makes sense, or if 
I am missing anything.

Here is a link to preliminary information:

Micro Nixie Controller 
Boardhttp://www.coldwarcreations.com/microboard/microboard.html

Thanks!


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[neonixie-l] Re: Micro Nixie Controller board

[M.J.Sangster]

 I think I will change the screws to 2-56 - the 0-80's ARE small.


I used 2mm spaced connectors due to size constraints. However, I will list 
the dimensions in metric.

The inputs have pullups, so a switch to ground is all that is needed. They 
are debounced in software.

Temperature inputs will work with a MCP9700A, TO92 case. They cost around 
30 cents and are accurate

The light sensor works with a TEPT4400 light sensor, about 50 cents.

I'll update the web page with I/O interface circuits to use with the board.
 

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[neonixie-l] Re: Futurlec?

[M.J.Sangster]

I've also had good luck with Futurlec - but they are slow (possibly the 
mail service is the reason). They sent me a wrong part, and immediately 
sent the right part, and did not even want the old wrong part sent back.


- Michael

On Sunday, February 24, 2013 2:07:25 AM UTC-6, Chuck wrote:

 Anyone here have any experience ordering from Futurlec? 
 Looks like they have some good prices, but how's their 
 delivery time? 

 Thanks, 

 Chuck 


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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie Tube Power Supply

[M.J.Sangster]

I'm guessing he's using the 34063 for regulation, perhaps the HV
transistors are cutting the output voltage? Jason?

I use a 34063 circuit on my Nixie clocks, and get anywhere from 60-82%
efficiency depending on component selection. The max output would
depend on rating of the inductor, hv capacitor, switching Mosfet, and
trace sizes. I find the 34063 makes a good solid hv power supply.

I do need a 2 - 4v input capability for some of my upcoming projects,
and I know the 34063 can't do it. I will use the Taylor supplies for
those designs.

- Michael Sangster

www.coldwarcreations.com


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[neonixie-l] Re: Modern Nixie tube drivers

[M.J.Sangster]

I have used the the Supertex HV5812 with IN-16's and IN-14's. It is a
5 volt supply chip that is available in a 28 pin DIP package. It has
20 outputs, so it can drive 2 tubes in direct mode, or 6 tube (2 X 3)
multiplexed. Also, it uses a lot less power than the nixie TTL driver
IC's.

It works well. I have a schematic of my multiplexed design at:
http://www.coldwarcreations.com/nixieclk3.html  at the bottom of the
page under how it works.

- Michael Sangster

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[neonixie-l] Re: Ghosting on IN-14s even with long blanking period.

[M.J.Sangster]

I had this same problem when using SN75468's for digit drivers
(discrete high voltage drivers) with IN-17's. These have a common
pullup voltage, that I set to 100v. My problem was that the 100v would
drop to a lower voltage due to using too big of a resister with the
100v zener diode.

Not sure if individual transistors need a high voltage pullup resistor
for muxing. I've only used M42's for direct drive.

- Michael Sangster

www.coldwarcreations.com

On Feb 5, 2:08 am, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Feb 5, 12:09 am, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:

 there is still some minor ghosting
  on certain digits (mostly the seven)

 Well this is interesting... I tried taking the anode control wire of
 the second digit and tying it to ground. As expected, this turns all
 the digits off and eliminates all ghosting... except for seven! Seven
 turns off just like all the other digits, but for some reason it
 continues to ghost over from the other tube. Even stranger is
 this:when I measure the second digit's anode voltage compared to
 ground, my DMM says zero volts (well, a few millivolts). But when the
 first digit hits seven, the DMM says the anode is 25 volts relative to
 ground (remember PWM is going on here, so that's probably not
 accurate, but it still shows there is voltage).  As far as I can see,
 the wiring is exactly the same between all the digits, but seven just
 keeps acting up more than the others...

 I probably have some stupid wiring mistake causing the seven thing,
 but the ghosting still doesn't want to go away.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Ghosting on IN-14s even with long blanking period.

[M.J.Sangster]

Yes, the diode circuit with the voltage divider should work, you could
try that. It is equivalent to the SN75468 circuit - works on my
IN-17's.

- Michael

http://www.coldwarcreations.com


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[neonixie-l] Re: Ghosting on IN-14s even with long blanking period.

[M.J.Sangster]

I agree, seems like like a lot of extra parts. How about the anode
drivers? It might cause the problem. Just to see what happens, try the
anode driver I've used (it's used in a lot of multiplex designs), it
seems to work well.

http://www.coldwarcreations.com/pdf/in14clock3.pdf

- Michael

On Feb 5, 4:12 pm, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grr, so many extra parts... plus, with those resistors it would waste
 ~300mW by my calculations. Darn.

 On Feb 5, 12:31 pm, Frank Bemelman bemel...@franktechniek.nl
 wrote:

  You could add 10 small diodes and 2 
  resistors:http://www.franktechniek.nl/NixieClock/IN14-6-V1/IN14-6-V2-Files/IN14...
  Frank

  - Original Message -
  From: will ossumguyw...@gmail.com
  To: neonixie-l neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 7:09 AM
  Subject: [neonixie-l] Ghosting on IN-14s even with long blanking period.

  I got my IN-14s in the mail the other day (Well, three out of four,
  one was broken, but m_bulb on ebay very kindly offered to send me two
  more tubes. Awesome customer service right there). I've been working
  on multiplexing them, and everything works well except for the fact
  that I'm experiencing some annoying ghosting. My code basically looks
  like this:
  [snip]

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[neonixie-l] Re: Ghosting on IN-14s even with long blanking period.

[M.J.Sangster]

not sure, but it might. Worth a try.

On Feb 5, 9:05 pm, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:
 My anode driver is the same as yours, except for R1, R2, and R3 are
 all 10K and R2 is between MPSA42 emitter and ground instead of MPSA92
 base and MPSA42 collector. Do you think that would cause my driver to
 work slowly?

 On Feb 5, 8:37 pm, M.J.Sangster mjs...@coldwarcreations.com wrote:

  I agree, seems like like a lot of extra parts. How about the anode
  drivers? It might cause the problem. Just to see what happens, try the
  anode driver I've used (it's used in a lot of multiplex designs), it
  seems to work well.

 http://www.coldwarcreations.com/pdf/in14clock3.pdf

  - Michael

  On Feb 5, 4:12 pm, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:

   Grr, so many extra parts... plus, with those resistors it would waste
   ~300mW by my calculations. Darn.

   On Feb 5, 12:31 pm, Frank Bemelman bemel...@franktechniek.nl
   wrote:

You could add 10 small diodes and 2 
resistors:http://www.franktechniek.nl/NixieClock/IN14-6-V1/IN14-6-V2-Files/IN14...
Frank

- Original Message -
From: will ossumguyw...@gmail.com
To: neonixie-l neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 7:09 AM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Ghosting on IN-14s even with long blanking period.

I got my IN-14s in the mail the other day (Well, three out of four,
one was broken, but m_bulb on ebay very kindly offered to send me two
more tubes. Awesome customer service right there). I've been working
on multiplexing them, and everything works well except for the fact
that I'm experiencing some annoying ghosting. My code basically looks
like this:
[snip]

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[neonixie-l] Re: recommendation for anode resistor for 2x2 multiplexed IN-14s @166-170v?

[M.J.Sangster]

I ran into the same problem with the 10's digit in the hour position.
When it's dark, it takes extra time to turn back on. I put a 22 Meg
resistor from the decimal point to ground. This primes the Nixie
without turning on the DP (it glows very faintly), and it turns on
without the delay.

- Michael


http://www.coldwarcreations.com

ng
 characteristics depending on ambient light (ie how much they are pre-
 ionized). If I try to light up two lamps that share an anode, unless I
 have my desk lamp on, one of the lamps will fail to light for a second
 or so. I can actually control the activity of the lamps with a low-
 medium power (~15mW) blu-ray laser (high-energy 405nm photons). This

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[neonixie-l] Re: recommendation for anode resistor for 2x2multiplexed IN-14s @166-170v?

[M.J.Sangster]

I like both methods. Multiplexing does save on chips and complexity of
the circuit board. Also, requires less power.

- Michael

http://www.coldwarcreations.com

On Jan 22, 6:18 pm, chuck richards chuc...@all2easy.net wrote:
 I have one basic question for everyone:

 Why is multiplexing so commonly desired?

 For my own uses, I have found direct drive to be simple,
 reliable, and completely free of any flicker or any of the
 other things that can plague a multiplexed readout.

 Chuck





  Original Message 
 From: ossumguyw...@gmail.com
 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
 Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] Re: recommendation for anode resistor for
 2x2multiplexed IN-14s @166-170v?
 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 15:58:00 -0800 (PST)

 Yep, it was a combination of the multiplexing and a problem with the
 anode transistors. It turns out, having a small delay after turning
 off the anodes is important. I already had a few µs between turning
 the anodes off and back on for my shift register write functions,
 but
 I needed to add what I believe was an extra 100 clock cycles
 (12.5us)
 or else the MPSA92s would stay partially on and allow just enough
 voltage to pass to cause an off bulb to flicker during
 multiplexing
 and for the MPSA42s to register positive on my DMM. Now it's 100%
 contrast, no flickering at all. Very nice looking.

 On Jan 21, 1:35 pm, M.J.Sangster mjs...@coldwarcreations.com
 wrote:
  You would read a lower voltage because of the PWM, I believe it is
 an
  average value you are seeing. A scope would show the proper value.
 Or
  you could just slow down the PWM to maybe 2 seconds on, then your
  meter would show the proper value.

  - Michael Sangster

  On Jan 21, 12:00 pm, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:

   Now, my only concern is that my DMM only measures around 110
 volts
   between the +voltage supply and the cathode transistors, even
 though
   there is 170v between +voltage and ground. I'll have to do some
 more
   testing, but it looks like for some reason the transistor
 collectors
   are hovering at about 50v... Maybe they just seem this way
 because
   of the PWM?

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[neonixie-l] Re: recommendation for anode resistor for 2x2 multiplexed IN-14s @166-170v?

[M.J.Sangster]

I have built a clock with 6 IN-14 Nixies. I multiplex 3 sets of 2
nixies.

I use 180v with 13K resistors with the following timing (the timing is
conservative and works with 170v, too):

Mux Timing:

1) turn on anode for current nixie(s) (data present on cathodes)
  wait 1880 uSec, this is the digit display time, small value will
  make the digit dimmer.

2) turn off all nixie anodes
  wait 96 uSec

3) send current digit data to nixies,
  wait 72 uSec, go to step (1)

  Works good, no ghosting and good brightness. Also, I use A1A's for
colons with a 200K resistor. I use the anode (Nixie) switch for the
colons so their brightness varies with the Nixies.

See http://www.coldwarcreations.com/nixieclk3.html  for more
information.


- Michael Sangster

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[neonixie-l] Re: recommendation for anode resistor for 2x2 multiplexed IN-14s @166-170v?

[M.J.Sangster]

You would read a lower voltage because of the PWM, I believe it is an
average value you are seeing. A scope would show the proper value. Or
you could just slow down the PWM to maybe 2 seconds on, then your
meter would show the proper value.

- Michael Sangster

On Jan 21, 12:00 pm, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:


 Now, my only concern is that my DMM only measures around 110 volts
 between the +voltage supply and the cathode transistors, even though
 there is 170v between +voltage and ground. I'll have to do some more
 testing, but it looks like for some reason the transistor collectors
 are hovering at about 50v... Maybe they just seem this way because
 of the PWM?


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